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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BELGRADE
April - May 2010

Days of Belgrade
The city's largest festival
takes to the streets
Fashion Week
Football-inspired models
and performances for
N°9
www.inyourpocket.com World Cup 2010
Contents 3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Arriving in Belgrade 6
Land on your feet in the Serbian capital

The Basics 7
History 9
Culture & Events 11
Fashion week, film festivals and dinosaurs

Where to stay 21
Business suites to hostel bunks

Restaurants 32
Vegetarians beware!

Cafés 40
Coffee and cigarettes are mandatory in Belgrade
The Serbian coat of arms

Nightlife 41
The city that truly never sleeps

What to see 45
Churches, parks museums and more

Mail & Phones 50


Getting around 51
Belgrade and beyond

Shopping 55
Souvenirs and Keepsakes

Business Directory 57
Invest in Belgrade

Lifestyle Directory 59
From Masseurs to Dentists

Sports 61
Maps&Index
Index & Street register 63
City centre map 64
City map 66
Country map 67
Springtime in Belgrade

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


4 Foreword
While there's never a bad time of year to visit the
Serbian capital, spring may very well be first among Europe In Your Pocket
equals. As the weather warms and the long snowy win-
ter becomes a memory, the non-stop carefree parties
for which Belgrade is best known can move out of the
subterranean clubs and sheltered VIP rooms where
they tend to retreat during the colder months and into
the streets, parks and armada splavovi (party boats)
that line the banks of the River Sava. Ada Ciganlija (p
61) comes alive in the spring and is ground zero for
much of the revelry. The one-time island is also the pla-
ce to head for those wishing to partake in Belgrade's
sports scene, as it not only hosts the annual Sport
Fest (p 16), but is also home to a labyrinth of cycling
paths, football pitches, basketball and tennis courts,
rock climbing walls, a golf course, countless water
sports, and just about any other sport activity that
can be imagined. Those less active among us have
no need to fret however, as April and May are also two
of the liveliest months on Belgrade's cultural calendar
(p 11). Notable events include the long-running Days
of Belgrade (p 12), which is the city's largest festival,
one of two annual Fashion Weeks (p 13), and Museum
Night (p 15), when over 70 cultural institutions keep
their doors open till 2am and offer admission with
a single ticket. As always we welcome any and all
feedback at belgrade@inyourpocket.com.

We now publish a record 58 guides and mini-


Cover story guides across 22 European countries, with more
With its numerous hills, rivers, than four million In Your Pocket-branded products
neighbourhoods and suburbs, printed and distributed annually. The latest to join
Belgrade is not the easiest the list was Niš: the capital of southern Serbia and
city in the world to get a feel for birthplace of Constantine the Great.
geographically. One of the most This year we will also be launching new guides in
exhilarating ways to solve this Den Bosch (the first In Your Pocket in the Nether-
problem for first-time visitors is lands), Venice, Glasgow, Vienna, Kranj, Celje and
to take in a bird's eye view from Bovec, as well as a few other cities we are keeping
the comfort of a hot air balloon. a secret for now.
While it's a bit more expensive We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like
than the latest edition of Google Earth, it will likely to take part in our Pocket Revolution, starting up an
be an unforgettable experience. See page 47 for IYP. Simply send us an email requesting more info:
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Editorial Copyright notice


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11000 Belgrade, Serbia Photos BG Info Box gallery, Srđan Pocket is used under license from UAB
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BG Info Box
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foreword 5

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belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


6 ARRIVING IN BELGRADE
By plane Tourist information
Nikola Tesla Airport is about 18km west of downtown
Belgrade, near a place called Surčin. The arrivals hall houses
car rentals, an exchange office open 24hrs, several ATMs, Information Centres of the Tourist Organisation of
and a currency exchange machine in Terminal 1. There is no Belgrade - TOB:
difference in currency exchange rates between the airport Nikola Tesla Airport tel. 209 78 28. 4Open
and the city. 08:00 - 22:00.
Jat Airways lost luggage is handled by Su-Port service, tel. Central Railway Station B-2, tel. 361 27 32. 4Open
267 63 74, and the lost luggage of other air carriers by Lost 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
& Found airport service, tel. 209 48 54, which will deliver the Knez Mihailova 6 C-2, tel. 328 18 59. 4Open
found luggage to any address in the city. 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun.
Terazije passageway near the Albania build-
You can call home from a Halo telephone booth, using Halo ing C-2, tel. 263 56 22. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
magnetic cards, available at news stands at the airport. 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun.
The Terminal 2 departure hall features a post office and Information Centre of the Tourist Organisation of
an internet café, open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat. 08:00 - 14:00, Serbia:
Closed Sun. Čika Ljubina 8/1 C-2, tel. 655 71 00. 4Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00..
To get to the city, you can take a Jat Airways shuttle (200
dinars) whose departures coincide with arrivals of that
airline. A public transport bus is also available (the fare price
is 60 dinars) and so are taxis. Ignore the pushy taxi drivers
Street smarts
accosting travellers at the arrivals hall, because they will rip Street - Ulica Road - Put
you off. The best thing to do is call a taxi (ask someone to do it Square - Trg Quay - Kej
for you) and it will arrive in front of the terminal building in a few Boulevard - Bulevar Bridge - Most
minutes. The ride to downtown Belgrade takes about 20 min Highway - Autoput
and the price should not exceed €14 (except on weekends
and public holidays, see p. 45 for info on tariffs). Some taxi
companies give a 20% discount if you order a taxi by phone. a left luggage office, and a tourist information centre. When
The number of passengers or amount of luggage should not you leave the station, you will have to fight your way through
affect the price of the ride. Some good taxi companies: Lux the line of importuning taxi sharks, waiting in ambush in front
taxi, tel. (+38111) 303 31 23, Beotaxi, tel. (+38111) 970, of the station building. Ignore them, and if you want a taxi, hail
Beogradski taxi, tel. (+38111) 9801. one a little down the street. There is a tram stop outside the
station building and line N°2 circles around the very center of
the city. This might be best solution if you're looking for a cheap
By car ride. You can purchase your ticket at a kiosk before climbing
Belgrade lies at the intersection of E-70 and E-75 motorways. aboardat a flat price of 42 dinars, or on one of the trams from
Foreign drivers in Serbia need an international driving license, the driver for 80 dinars. If the prospect of a steep, 300m climb
vehicle registration certificate and insurance policy. The valid does not seem too daunting, you can walk up Balkanska Street
insurance policies are issued by the signatory countries and reach the very centre of the city - Terazije.
of the Vehicle Insurance Convention and citizens of other
countries are required to buy an insurance policy on entering
Serbia. You cannot miss Belgrade, because the motorway By bus
runs through the city. The speed limit in the city is set at 60 Belgrade has an excellent network of long-distance buses
km/h unless otherwise indicated by speed signs. Permitted which connects it to all parts of Europe. The Central Bus
Blood Alcohol Level is 0.5 g/l. Station, one of the ugliest structures to be seen when
entering the city, lies next to the Central Railway Station, so
the same warnings about pickpockets and taxi crooks apply
By train here too. The same goes for the information on how to get
Back in the days of the Orient Express, a journey by train was to the city centre. The station features exchange offices,
the best way to get to Belgrade. The Central Railway Station ATMs and a left-luggage office. Located across the street,
dates back to 1884 and is situated in the downtown area. next to a small park, the arrivals area is separated from the
Besides the Central Bus Station, this is probably the only station building. You can find a tourist information office at
place in town where you should beware of pickpockets and the nearby railway station.
rip off merchants. The station offers exchange offices, ATMs,

By boat
Market values The Danube River flows through Serbia, providing 588 km of
navigable waterway. You can arrive in Belgrade on a Danube
Exchange rates (on march 31, 2010.): cruise boat or your own yacht. Via the Danube River and the
US$1 = 74.9, €1 = 100.46, UK£1 = 112.2 Rhine-Main-Danube Canal, Belgrade is connected to the
North Sea and the Black Sea.
McDonald’s Big Mac 190din. €1.9 The passenger dock of the Belgrade Port, including the
1kg of beef 530din. €5.3 international border crossing, is located on the right bank
10 eggs 120din. €1.2 of the Sava River, near Branko Bridge. The dock features
Loaf of white bread 38din. €0.38 an exchange office, ATM, a souvenir shop and a tourist
Snickers bar 46din. €0.46
Bottle of local beer (1/2 litre) 38din. €0.38 information office. Belgrade Fortress is within walking distance
20 Marlboros 150din. €1.50 and if you want to go elsewhere in Belgrade the easiest way is
Public transport ticket 42din. €0.42 to take a taxi. You can either call one (for more info on Belgrade
taxis see p. 49) or hail it in the street in front of the dock.

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Basics 7

Disabled travellers
The Delta City and Mercator shopping malls offer facilities
for people with disabilities. Pedestrian crossings on the
main city arteries have sloped kerbs and large intersections
in the centre are equipped with sound signalling systems.
And that, sadly, is that. Most restaurants and cafés are
inaccessible to disabled patrons and hardly any offer toilet
facilities to them.

Geography
Serbia takes up an area of 88,361km2. The country borders
Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania,
Bulgaria, FYR Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro. The
Midžor peak at Stara planina (Old Mountain) is the highest
in Serbia at 2,156m. The Danube flows 588km through the
country, the Sava River 206km, and the Drina River forms
most of the border to the West (220km). Another important
Serbian river is the Great Morava (185km), created by the
confluence of the Western Morava (308km) and the Southern
Morava (295km). Belgrade itself lies at the confluence of the
Sava and the Danube Rivers.

Health
Tap water is safe to drink. The estimated number of
AIDS cases is low. Doctors and medical staff in state-run
hospitals are professional and reliable and you won‘t need The Ušće Business Centre in New Belgrade
to worry about their skills if you should become ill. The
worrying part of the experience is the poor maintenance Local time
of state-run hospitals, which is a consequence of Serbia is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours
underfunding, and the red tape involved in getting admitted (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving time. When it is
to hospital. If you have any minor health issues, it would noon in Belgrade it is: 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York,
be better to visit a private clinic so that you avoid an 21:00 in Sydney and 14:00 in Moscow. 
agonising wait. 
Money
The Serbian currency is the dinar (RSD). The first mention of
Homosexuality a "Serbian dinar" dates back to 1214. Each dinar is divided
Public displays of homosexuality are largely unacceptable into 100 paras, no longer in use, thus prices at shops are
in Belgrade. If you are gay, you are advised not to be too rounded off. Coins come in the following denominations: 1, 2,
affectionate in the street, because intolerant onlookers may 5, 10 and 20 dinars. The banknotes come in denominations
respond with varying degrees of hostility. There are a few gay of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000 and 5,000 dinars.
clubs in Belgrade, for more info visit www.gay-serbia.com or
www.belgrade-gay.com.  You can change money in a bank or any of the exchange
offices dotting the city (they are marked with the logo of the
National Bank of Serbia). The differences in exchange rates
Local laws & Police are negligible. Most banks in Belgrade will change travellers
Prostitution and drug use are illegal so try and stay away cheques, American Express, Thomas Cook, VISA and
from these potential sources of trouble. Besides, being a Eurocheques. Western Union money transfers from abroad
foreigner you may not be able to spot plain clothes police can be collected from the post office and most banks.
officers. Police in full riot gear are a regular sight at football
matches but that should not cause you any alarm.  The first ATM in southern Europe was installed in Belgrade
in the early 80s.You can buy almost all goods and services
with bank cards, and you need cash only for green markets,
Climate kiosks, and parking fees. Throughout the city, there is a
large number of ATMs where you can collect money 24h.
100
Cards widely acceptable in Belgrade are VISA, VISA Electron,
Temperature (celsius) Rainfall (mm)

90
MasterCard, Eurocard, Maestro, Diners Club and local
80
DinaCard. American Express has recently been introduced
70 to Belgrade market, and a rather limited number of shops
60 and ATMs will accept it.
50

Important phone numbers


40
30
20
10 Police: 92
0 Fire Department: 93
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Avg Sep Okt Nov Dec Ambulance: 94
rain temperature Road assistance: 987

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


8 Basics
On the city’s roads National holidays
As a result of a surprisingly small number of bridges, a
bypass is currently under construction in Belgrade. This will
be most welcome when it has been completed because with 1-2 January - New Year’s Days
a motorway running through the centre almost, there are 7 January - Christmas (Orthodox)
no normal rush hours. Instead, there are traffic jams on the 15 February - Statehood Day in Serbia
major interchanges pretty much all day long. Belgraders as 2-5 April - Easter (Orthodox, from Good Friday to second
a rule drive fast and change lanes abruptly without signalling day of Easter)
and they do not suffer slower drivers gladly. A yellow line 1 May - Labour Day
which marks the right-most lane actually means the lane 9 May - Victory Day (Commemorative Day)
is reserved for public transport and taxis. Do not come
too close to the curb, because some mysterious bandits
seem to be operating outside the city centre and targeting Smoking
manhole lids, so you run the risk of your wheel hitting the Most Belgraders consider coffee and cigarettes a perfect
hole. In short, if you have little penchant for the Dakar Rally way to start the day, so it is small wonder that smoking
experience, it would be best to abandon the idea of driving is allowed in all restaurants and cafés. The problem here
round Belgrade. After all, the best way to get to know a is how to find a place with a non-smoking area. Smoking
city is on foot. is outlawed only in public premises (banks, post offices,
hospitals, etc).
Population
Serbia’s population in 2002, excluding Kosovo and Metohija,
came to 7,498,001, Belgrade’s in the same year was Toilets
1,576,124. The country’s ethnic make up then, again without Public toilets in downtown Belgrade are extremely hard
considering Kosovo and Metohija, was: Serbs 82,86%, to find. There are none at the Belgrade Fortress and the
Hungarians 3,91%, Bosniaks 1,82%, Roma 1,44% and nearest one is in Kalemegdan Park. The existing ones are
others 9,97%. The official language is Serbian, with Cyrillic fairly decent, free and can be found in large parks. They are
as the official script. However the Latin script is also used open from 07:00 - 23:00. If you need to use  the toilet whilst
just as much strolling around the city, you can go to one in a nearby café 
or restaurant, or a public garage.
Religion
Orthodox Christianity is the major religion in Serbia. The
Serbian Orthodox Church became autonomous in 1219. Visas
Other important religious communities are those of Islam, If you are a citizen of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, USA, Israel,
Catholicism and Judaism. Russia, Japan, Canada, Argentina, Australia, Bosnia and
Herzegovina, Croatia, Cuba, Macedonia, Tunisia, Singapore,
Mexico, Bolivia, New Zealand or the Republic of Korea, you
can enter Serbia without a visa and can stay in the country
for 90 days. Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa
from a Serbian consulate before travelling. Within 12 hours
of your arrival in Serbia, you are required to register with the
nearest police station. If you are staying in a hotel or hostel,
they will automatically do that for you. Failure to register
carries a massive fine. For all the details on how to extend
your stay or procure a working permit, contact the Ministry
of Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Consular Affairs C-3,
Kneza Miloša 24-26, tel. (+381) 11 306 82 68 or
Belgrade City Police (Department for Foreigners) B-3,
Savska 35, tel. (+381) 11 361 89 56.

Safety
Belgrade is a fairly safe place. There is not a single
part of the city where a girl cannot be out on her own
in the middle of the night. There are other hazards
that you should be aware of when you are in in the
city, though. While you are strolling round the Old
Town, beware of the bits and pieces that may fall off
the old buildings waiting their turn for restoration. At
the same time, you should tread carefully (particularly
on Svetogorska, Vlajkovićeva, Palmotićeva and Hilan-
darska Streets) because irresponsible dog owners
hardly ever clean up after their pets, leaving behind
a veritable minefield of muck. There are stray dogs
too, but they generally mind their own business and
don’t cause anyone any bother. 

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Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


history 9

7000 BC Neolithic settlement established.


279 BC First mention of Singidunum, the original name of the
city. Founded by the Scordisci, a Celtic tribe.
86 AD HQ of the 4th Roman Legion Flavia Felix.
395 The Roman Empire splits into two and Singidunum becomes
a part of the Eastern Roman Empire. Strategically located on the
northwestern border, it is exposed to diverse cultural influences
and is a magnet for every aspiring conqueror.
441-827 Invaded and ravaged successively by Huns,
Sarmatians, Goths, Gepidaes, Avars, Slavs, the Byzantine
Empire, and Bulgaria. Slavic tribes colonise the Balkans in the 6th
century. Slavs embrace Christianity in the 9th century.
878 First mention of the Slavic name of the city - Belgrade. Pope
John VIII writes a letter to Bulgarian Prince Boris I Mihail, informing
him about the dismissal of Bishop of Belgrade for debauchery.
896-1232 Belgrade is a battleground between rivals - Hungary
and the Byzantine Empire, it changes hands eight times. Once
seized by Bulgaria and twice ransacked by Crusaders on their
way to Jerusalem.
1166 Creating an independent Serbian state, Stefan Nemanja
asserts himself as the Grand Prince of Serbs. He's also a
founder of the Nemanjić dynasty and crowned King of the Serbs
by the Pope.
1219 Serbian Orthodox Church gains independence.
1284 King Stefan Dragutin receives Belgrade from Hungary as a
gift - this is the first time that the city passes to Serbian rule.
1346 King Stefan Dušan of the Nemanjić house is crowned One of Belgrade's first public buses
Emperor of Serbs and Greeks. Following his demise, the empire
dissolves and Serbian noblemen create their own states. bringing the Turkish control over Belgrade to an end.
1389 Battle of Kosovo. Prince Lazar Hrebeljanović rallies 1867 The Turks withdraw from Belgrade. The Turkish
Serbian noblemen to stand up against Turkish expansion into commander hands over the keys to Belgrade Fortress to Prince
Europe. Europe celebrates the victory of Christianity because Mihailo Obrenović.
of the death of the Turkish sultan and the Turkish retreat. On 1876 Serbian-Turkish war. Serbs liberate southeastern
the other hand Serbia cannot recover from the defeat as most Serbia.
of its nobility, including Prince Lazar, perish in the battle. He is 1878 Formal independence of Serbia recognized at the
succeeded by his underage son Stefan Lazarević, who becomes Congress of Berlin.
a Turkish vassal. 1882 Kingdom of Serbia proclaimed under King Milan
1403 Despot Stefan Lazarević receives Belgrade from Hungary, Obrenović.
rebuilds it and makes it the capital of Serbia. 1903 The May Coup d’Etat. A group of army officers assassinate
1427 Following the death of Despot Stefan Lazarević, Hungary King Aleksandar Obrenović and Queen Draga Mašin, because
reclaims Belgrade. their marriage is unacceptable to the public. The house of
1440 Sultan Murad II lays siege to Belgrade with 100,000 Obrenović becomes extinct and King Petar I Karađorđević
Turkish soldiers and 200 ships. The city survives the siege (grandson to Karađorđe) claims the throne.
following a fierce struggle. 1912 First Balkan War pits the Balkan League (Serbia, Greece,
1456 Sultan Mehmed II besieges Belgrade with 150,000 Montenegro and Bulgaria) against the Ottoman Empire. The
soldiers. The Turks lift the siege when their Sultan is wounded. Turks are driven out of Kosovo and Metohija, the last occupied
1459 The Turks conquer the Serbian capital of Smederevo; part of Serbia.
which marks the beginning of a five- century long Turkish 1913 Second Balkan War waged and won by Serbia against
domination over Serbia. Bulgaria.
1521 Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent captures Belgrade 1914 Outbreak of World War I. Austro-Hungary shells and
with 300,000 soldiers, and deports the entire population to captures Belgrade. After the Battle of Cer and Kolubara, the first
Istanbul. allied victories in WWI, the Serbian army liberates Belgrade and
1688-1791 Belgrade is occupied by Austria and Turkey six drives the Austro-Hungarian army out of Serbia.
times. 1915 Germany and Bulgaria enter the war siding with Austro-
1804 Serbian uprising against the Turks started by Đorđe Hungary. German and Austro-Hungarian troops occupy Belgrade.
Petrović Karađorđe. This is the beginning of a three-year-long occupation and plunder
1807 Led by Karađorđe, Serbs liberate Belgrade and make it of the city. The Serbian army retreats under attack across Albania
the capital of Serbia. Karađorđe is subsequently proclaimed a towards Greece and Corfu Island.
hereditary ruler. He founds the Karađorđević dynasty. 1916 Recovered Serbian soldiers join the allied army on the
1813 The Turks occupy Belgrade; the uprising is crushed; Salonica Front.
Karađorđe flees Serbia. 1918 With the breakthrough on the Salonica Front, the Serbian
1815 Miloš Obrenović leads the Second Serbian Uprising. Serbia army returns to Serbia. In WWI, there were 1,247,000 Serbian
is offered partial autonomy. casualties, or 28% of the country’s total population. The Serbs,
1817 Karađorđe is murdered on his return to Serbia, on the Croats and Slovenes unite into one state and Belgrade becomes
orders of Miloš Obrenović. the capital of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians
1830 Turkey grants autonomy to Serbia. Miloš Obrenović (later Yugoslavia).
is acknowledged as hereditary Prince. He founds the Obrenović 1934 King Aleksandar visits Marseille in a bid to strengthen a
dynasty. defence union with France against Germany. During this visit he's
1862 The murder of a Serbian boy triggers a clash between assassinated by Croatian Ustashe.
Serbian and Turkish soldiers which ends in an international treaty 1941 The 27th March protests erupt against joining the Axis

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


10 HISTORY
(Germany-Italy-Japan). Following a coup d’etat, 17-year-old 1991 Ethnic and political divisions lead to the collapse of
Crown Prince Petar assumes the throne. Nazi Germany bombs Yugoslavia. Slovenia and Croatia declare independence, and,
Belgrade on 6th April. The King and the Government go to exile. as a consequence, civil war erupts. Crown Prince Aleksandar II
Two Serbian resistance movements - the Chetniks of Draža visits Belgrade for the first time in his life.
Mihailović and Tito’s Partisans are born. Yugoslav territory is 1992 The European Community recognises Croatia and Bosnia.
divided between Germany, Italy, Bulgaria, Hungary and the The Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed. The UN Security
Independent State of Croatia. Council imposes an economic embargo on Yugoslavia over its
1944 Belgrade is repeatedly bombed by the Allies. Tito’s support for the Serbs in Croatia and Bosnia, who want to unite
Partisans and the Red Army liberate the city on 20th October. with federal Yugoslavia.
1945 The human cost of war is 1,700,000 deaths, chiefly among 1993 The highest hyperinflation in history - a 500,000,000,000
Serbs. The monarchy is abolished, the Federal People’s Republic dinar note is printed in Belgrade.
of Yugoslavia is proclaimed and Josip Broz Tito comes to power. 1994 End of hyperinflation, new dinar introduced.
In the post-war period, Belgrade grows rapidly and develops into 1995 In the aftermath of the Croatian war, around 300,000
an important centre of political, cultural and sporting life. Crown Serb refugees leave Croatia for Serbia.
Prince Aleksandar, son to King Peter II, is born in Claridges Hotel 1996 Massive protests against Slobodan Milošević over
in London. electoral fraud at local elections.
1961 The first Conference of Non-Aligned Countries is held 1999 Long-lasting aspirations of Kosovo Albanians to secede
in Belgrade. from Serbia escalate in violent conflicts between Serbs and
1968 Student protests are held against social inequities and Albanians in Kosovo. NATO forces bomb Serbia and Belgrade
bureaucracy. Soon after, hundreds of thousands of Belgraders for three months, without the endorsement of the UN Security
in Nikola Pašić Square protest against the Soviet occupation Council. Slobodan Milošević is accused of crimes against
of Czechoslovakia. humanity during the wars of Yugoslavian succession. In June,
1980 Josip Broz Tito dies. Yugoslavia is now governed by a following a piece agreement, NATO troops are stationed in
‘Presidency’ comprised of 8 members (6 from the republics Kosovo and Metohija. Around 200,000 Kosovo Serbs find
and 2 from the Serbian provinces). refuge in Serbia.
2000 Slobodan Milošević is ousted amid huge protests over
electoral fraud. Relations with European countries and the
Josip Broz Tito US improve.
2003 Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is replaced by the State
Tito (1892-1980) was an enigmatic man who ruled su- Union of Serbia and Montenegro. Serbian Prime Minister,
preme over Yugoslavia for 35 years. His roles included Zoran Đinđić, is assassinated by a criminal clan.
being Secretary General of the Communist Party of 2004 Before the eyes of NATO and UN forces, around 50,000
Yugoslavia, leader of one of two resistance movements Albanians launch orchestrated attacks on the remaining
during WW2, life-long president of Yugoslavia and a Serbian villages in Kosovo and torch Serbian houses. In less
founder of the Non-Aligned Movement. The German than 48 hours, Albanians desecrate and destroy 30 Serbian
occupation of Serbia and the flight of the King and the churches and monasteries.
government from the country played to his advantage, as 2006 The State Union of Serbia and Montenegro ceases to
he prepared the way for communist rule during the anti- exist. Serbia is again an independent state. Belgrade is named
fascist struggle. In the aftermath of the war, he banned City of the Future of South Europe by the Financial Times.
the King from returning to the country but lived his own 2007 Negotiations between Serbia and Kosovo Albanians
life regally. A charmer and womaniser, a hedonist of over the status of Kosovo are held. Serbia offers broad
sophisticated tastes, he was a darling to the proletariat, autonomy, Albanians desire nothing less than independence.
Hollywood stars, communist dictators and the European The international community is divided over this issue.
aristocracy alike. Churchill, who detested communists, 2008 With the support of the USA and some EU countries,
happily sipped breakfast bubbly with him. Albanians from Kosovo and the Metohija province of Serbia
declare their independence. The international community is
still divided over this issue - some countries have recognised
Kosovo independence, some are against it. The Serbian
leadership does not want an armed conflict and strives to
prevent the secession of its province through diplomatic and
political means. Massive protests are staged throughout
Serbia. Around 500,000 people gather in Belgrade in peaceful
demonstrations and prayer against Kosovan independence,
while several hundred hooligans demolish and burn the empty
US Embassy building.

Political framework
Serbia is a parliamentary republic. The Serbian Parliament
has 250 seats. MPs are elected for a term of 4 years and
the President is elected to serve a 5-year term. The most
recent parliamentary elections were held in January 2007
and the presidential elections in January 2008. The current
President is Boris Tadić of the Democratic Party, and the Prime
Minister is Mirko Cvetković. The Democratic Party, together
with G17 Plus and Socialist Party of Serbia (the deceased
Slobodan Milošević’s party) form a governing coalition. The
major opposition parties are the Serbian Progressive Party
(the single strongest party in Serbia), the Democratic Party
of Serbia and Liberal Democratic Party.

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events 11

Event Listing Policy


Our events listings are free and completely independent
of paid-for advertising. If you know of an event that is of
interest to an English-speaking audience, and which you
would like to be published in our Culture & Events pages,
please send details to belgrade@inyourpocket.com We contemporary dance companies, famous choreographers
will always do our best to list all events we recieve. and current productions have all been met with positive
critical responses and large audiences, and this year's
festival will be larger than ever. More information and
a full schedule of performances can be found at www.
belgradedancefestival.com.

Walking with Dinosaurs: The Arena


Spectacular
9- 11 April 2010 Zvonko Bogdan: A music stor y
For three nights in early April, dinosaurs will roam the earth
again when Walking with Dinosaurs comes to the Belgrade throughout the Pannonia
Arena. Based on an award-winning BBC television series of 9 April 2010 at 20:00
the same name, the nearly 100 minute production includes Opera and Theatre Madlenianum
15 life sized dinosaurs from ten different species. The show Widely considered the best singer of traditional tambourine
depicts the dinosaurs' evolution, complete with the climatic music, Zvonko Bogdan, will per form with the Eight
and tectonic changes that took place, which led to the demise Tambourine Players from Petrovaradin (Osam tamburaĹĄa
of many species. With almost cinematic realism, walking with s Petrovaradina) at the Madlenianum Opera and Theatre. The
dinosaurs has scenes of the interactions between dinosaurs, performance will present a musical story of Pannonia, and
and the audience sees how carnivorous dinosaurs evolved continue the Madlenianum's cycle of concerts with artists
to walk on two legs, and how the herbivores fended off their and singers who communicate with the audience. Tickets
more agile predators. A brilliant blend of special effects, cost 1,000, 1,500 and 2,000 RSD and more details can be
escapism, excitement and information, the show is a must- found at www.madlenianum.rs.
see for families.

7th Belgrade Dance Festival


9-23 April 2010
Now in its seventh year, the Belgrade Dance Festival has
already proven itself a worthy addition to the Serbia's BELDOCS 2010
legendary festival schedule. Aiming to present the most 13-20 April Various venues
important trends in the area of contemporary dance, the The third edition of the BELDOCS International Documentary
event has established and confirmed its artistic standard Film Festival will present over 50 of th most recent world
and helped to popularise dance both on a national and achievements in the field of feature length documentaries
regional level. Guest appearances by prominent ballet and over one week at the Student’s City Cultural Centre, Cinema

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


12 Culture & Events
Balkan and the Yugoslav Film Archives Museum. The handing over of the keys to the city to Prince Obrenović (an
schedule includes 15 documentaries that were presented enlightened monarch who ruled in the 1860s) respectively -
and awarded at prestigious international film festivals like the festival includes countless different cultural, educational,
IDFA in Amsterdam and the Berlinale in Berlin. Seven full- sports and ceremonial programmes. It is also the occasion
length Serbian documentaries will also have their premieres of the Belgrade Awards, which sees 15 of the city's residents
within the regional competition, and all six films nominated awarded for their excellence in different fields. For more info
for the 2009 Academy Awards in the category of feature- see www.danibeograda.org.
length documentary will be presented as well. The Festival
program also includes presentations, panels, workshops,
master classes and well-known lecturers. For more info and
a complete schedule visit: www.beldocs.rs.

O3one Programme
for April 2010
Marijana Markoska
Antigen
8 - 10 April 2010

The Gift of Love - A Humanitarian Project


12 April 2010

Heartware
(Are we all cyborgs?)
Marija Popivoda
13 - 15 April 2010
Marija Šerifović Exhibition of Photography:
15 April 2010, Belgrade Arena
Marija Šrifović is a Serbian singer, and is perhaps best known Manhattan from Brooklyn by Delch
as the winner of the Eurovision Song Contest in 2007, which Milan Delčić
she won with the song Molitva. She was also one of the 16 - 17 April 2010
judges on Eurosong, the contest which selected the Irish
entry for Eurovision Song Contest in 2008, and a member of HOME SWEET HOME
the International Jury at Melodifest, which chose the Swedish Milan Janić & O3ONE
entry to Eurovision Song Contest 2009. 19 - 22 april 2010

Voyage Bleu / Plavo putovanje


26 April - 6 May 2010
Multimedia competition and workshops for students

www.o3one.rs

Days of Belgrade
16 - 19 April 2010
Various Venues
Days of Belgrade is the city's largest festival and has its roots
in a tradition dating all the way back to the 1870s. Held every
year between the 16th and 19th of April - two of the most
important dates in the history of the city, marking the first
mention of the Slavic name Beograd in a written text and the

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Culture & Events 13

Yamato Show - Matsuri Fiesta 23rd Belgrade Marathon


18 April 2010
17 April 2010 at 20:30, Belgrade Arena The long-running marathon is Serbia's largest traditional
The Japanese drumming group "Yamato" was born in sports event, which comprises a 5km fun run, half marathon
Yamato-no-kuni, in 1993 in the Nara prefecture, which and full marathon. It is given special coverage by all of the
is known for many ancient monuments and named as country's major media outlets, and has been declared an
the birthplace of Japanese event of special importance by the Belgrade City Council.
culture. It just started as a one-off performance at a One week prior to the marathon, a shorter children's fun run
local festival, but soon thereafter invitations from many is held at the Belgrade Zoo, with the highlight being a race
places started to pour in and the group now runs "round around the elephant's cage.
the world tours" with more than 200 performances a
year. The numbers in the members has grown from four 27th Belgrade Fashion Week
to seventeen, with both males and females. 19 - 25 April 2010
The centrepiece of Yamato's production is, of course, One of the premier events in the city, Belgrade Fashion
Wadaiko drumming. The sound Week is organized twice a year (in the middle of April and
of the drums, made of animal skin and ancient tree, some again at the end of October). With the most important
of which are more than 400 years old, domestic designers and fashion companies, prestigious
are thought of as the pulse or the Heartbeat (Shin-on) - foreign brands, talented young designers, students from
the centre of life and the source of power, which pulsates the Faculty of Applied Arts, well-known international
within your own body. Yamato attempts to create the designers as well as numerous media in one place, Belgrade
energy of life which envelops Fashion Week is a must attend event. The main organiser
the audience at each show. And what you feel when of the event is Fashion Studio Click, which has become a
surrounded by the sound of Wadaiko, brought out major contributor to many of Belgrade's cultural activities
by these highly trained bodies, is what Japanese call thanks to its creative, imaginative and often alternative
"Tamashy", which can be translated as soul, spirit, approach to fashion. The City Assembly of Belgrade and
psyche and so on, which is the basic element of life. the Ministry of Trade, Tourism and Services also plays a
key role in the event.
This year's event takes into consideration the 2010 World
Cup in South Africa, and designers will present models
inspired by football in the opening days of Fashion Week, and
urban dance groups will perform football-inspired routines. As
in previous years, many important Serbian fashion designers
will be participating, including Dragana Ognjenović, Irena
Grahovac, Bata Spasojević,Tamara Radivojević, Viktorija
Džimrevska, Tijana i Mila Popović, Jovana Marković, Ksenija
Marković, the creators of Dressing brand and many others.
Darko Kostić will also celebrate 10 years of work by showing
his new collection at the end of the Fashion Week. One of
the main missions of the event is discovering and promoting
young talent in the area of fashion, and many young designers
will also have their collections shown. For more information,
including a complete schedule, videos and other media see
www.belgradefashionweek.com.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


14 Culture & Events

Guarnerius Art Centre


Founded as a non-profit organisation in 2001, the
Guanerius Art Centre is the most spectacular chamber
music hall in Belgrade. It takes its name from Guaneri,
a famous violin maker from Cremona. The centre has
already hosted over 600 performances and gives special
attention to young and upcoming musicians. We've listed
some of the more notable upcoming concerts below,
and a full programme can be found on the web at www.
guarnerius.rs

Trio Andante
Wednesday, 21 April 2010 at 20:00
Mari-Liis Pakk, violin (Estonia)
Jason Calloway, violoncello (USA)
Yoon Chung, piano (Korea)
Young musicians with great solo careers, formed a trio
in 2003. and performed in the USA, with an exquisite
reviews. After a short break, they will reunite as a
trio with the concert in Guarnerius, which is also their
European debut.
Program: Mozart, Schumann, Brahms

Chamber Music Concert Of "Dr Vojislav Vučković"


Music School Students
Thursday, 22 April 2010 at 20:00
Chamber music concert of "Dr Vojislav Vučković" music
school students, class of professor Nataša Jovanović
Program: Nelk, Williams, Schneider, Hoffmeister, Haydn,
Ramo, Tchaikovsky, Chopin, Levin, Beethoven, Perilous,
Dvorak

Patrik Jablonski, piano (Sweden)


Saturday, 24 April 2010 at 20:00
Belgrade fashion week Well-known Swedish pianist is a graduate of the
prestigious Royal College of Music in London, and artistic
David Guetta director of the Malar International Music Festival and
record label Altara Music Ltd.
8 May 2010, Belgrade Arena
David Guetta is a French house producer and DJ, who This will be his debut performance in Guarnerius, but
originally began DJing at nightclubs during the 1980s and Belgrade audience will see him again in December,
1990s. He co-founded the label Gum Productions and when he will accompany Maestro Jovan Kolundžija,
released his first album, Just a Little More Love, in 2001. who when he plays Brahms's sonatas at the Kolarac
Later, he released Guetta Blaster (2004) and Pop Life Concert Hall.
(2007). His 2009 album One Love included the hits singles Program: Chopin, Brahms, Liszt
"When Love Takes Over" (featuring Kelly Rowland), and
"Sexy Bitch" (featuring Akon), the latter becoming a top five Vera Milanković – vocal lyrics
hit in the US. He has worked with a variety of pop artists Tuesday, 11 May 2010 at 20:00
including Akon, Britney Spears, Chris Willis, Kelly Rowland, Ileana Milić, soprano
Lil' Wayne, Madonna, Kid Cudi, Estelle and will.i.am, and Vera Milanković, piano
currently working with Shakira. See him live at the Belgrade An Evening With Vera Milanković's Music
Arena on May 8th! Composer, pianist and pedagogue Vera Milanković, will
present her work - religious and love songs, as well as
songs in a traditional manner.

Milena Đukić, violin and Uki Ovaskainen, piano


(Finland)
Thursday, 20 May 2010 at 20:00
Young violinist Milena Đukić, prize winner in many
competitions, is a master student at the prestigious
London school- Guildhall School of Music and Drama.
This is her debut performance in our Centre, with Uki
Ovaskainen, awarded contestant in competitions "Isidor
Bajić" and ”Haen” (Spain).
Program: Marić, Prokofiev, Shimanovsky

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Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events 15

Selling Gallery Belgrade

XIV Festival of
Choreographed Miniatures
11 - 15 May 2010
The National Theatre, other venues
The Festival of Choreographic Miniatures is an international
competition of choreographers with their up to 10-minute
choreographies performed for the first time. The Festival
program also comprises a review program where national
and international artists and performers perform. The
mission of the Festival is to promote contemporary dance
in the broadest sense and to introduce the current and
up-coming choreographic trends to the wider audience.
For more info and a complete programme visit www.
koreografskeminijature.com.

Good, bad, ugly. Hard Soc


15 April - 3 May 2010

Srđan Đile Marković, Vladimir Markoski and Vladislav


Šćepanović are members of the Hard Soc group founded
in 1998. Since then they have promoted the idea of
socially active art in a very specific way through a project
called Aesthetic irrationalism - the paradigm of modern
era. Through paintings of large and medium format they
present the question of media and its role in making
a spectacle out of reality. Starting from there, artists,
with the use of conventional media, tend to imply the
process

Brankica Končarević
5 - 20 May 2010

Brankica Končarević (1974) will present a series of


drawings done in the last few years. In them she
presents her own sculptural thoughts and replicates
the historic paintings of 20th century. The topic is the
human body and its anthropological qualities regarding
the surroundings of an industrial society. The body
as a central motif appears in fragments, and is also
recombined into imaginary unities with special meaning
to the artist. The relationship between inside and outside,
physiological and motorist, still nature and life creates
various styles of the painted body.

Vesna Perunović
24 May - 11 June 2010

The art of Vesna Perunović (1957) is an interdisciplinary


approach that uses drawing, sculpture, video and
performance. The artist will, as a part of the Border
Stitching project, present space interventions. This
project presents the phenomena of exile, borders and
cultural nomads. The drawing-installation Frenscape
is a 14m long paper with a continuous red line and the
repetitive motif resembling knitting. A video animation
titled Infinite Wall, connected with this graphic structure
of architectural constructions, walls and barriers, will be
screened on the central gallery wall.

www.inyourpocket.com
belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010
16 Culture & Events

Museum Night
15 May 2010

Belgrade Sport Fest 2010


22-23 May
Ada Ciganlija lake, Belgrade
Since 2005 this celebration of sport has taken place at
the end of each May on the shores of Ada Ciganlija. Last
year's festival attracted over 80,000 visitors and more
than 8,000 participants, including recreational, amateur
From 6pm to 2am, over 70 cultural institutions will open and professional athletes, families, as well as people
their doors to visitors, who can view permanent and who just love sports and the lake. The main goals of the
temporary exhibitions, as well as numerous concerts, event are the promotion of an active life for young people
performances and workshops all with a single ticket. and the popularisation of a life philosophy where nature,
This year, the seventh in which Belgrade has participated, competition and socialising play a key role. Entrance is
organisers have promised that more attention will be free of charge, as are certain special attractions such as
paid to quality rather than quantity, and many of the bungee jumping. Some of the other sports and events on
exhibitions and performances will be open to the public offer - both for participants and spectators - include the
for the first time, including many that were popular in Strong Man Cup, football, basketball, handball, American
other cities during the previous Museum Night. To further football, rugby, and martial arts and choreographed dance
increase the user-friendliness of the event, the entire city and fitness presentations. For more information see www.
will be divided into zones, making it easier to plan your belgradesportfest.com
route and be able to take in everything you'd like to see.
For more info visit www.nocmuzeja.rs.

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events 17

Belgrade
Philharmonic Orchestra
All concerts wiil be held at the Ilija M. Kolarac
Foundation Hall starting at 20:00h

09. 04. 2010. White cycle


Conductor: Uros Lajovic
Soloist: Andrei Gavrilov, piano
Program:
N. Rimsky-Korsakov: Sadko, orchestral fanatasy
M. Ravel: Concerto for the left hand
S. Prokofiev: Piano concerto no. 1
J. Sibelius: Symphony No. 1

16. 04. 2010. Red cycle


5th Belgrade Design Week Conductor: Gudni A. Emilsson
29 May - 5 June 2010 Soloist: Sergei Nakariakov, trumpet
Various venues Program:
The 5th edition of Belgrade Design Week will be held at J. Leifs: Geysir
the end of this spring, and again transform the city in the P. I. Tchaikovsky: Variations on a Rococo theme (arr. for
epicentre of creativity and the design capital of South-eastern trumpet and orchestra)
Europe, attracting some design's biggest names. The event E. Grieg: Symphony in C minor
is comprised of two major parts: the Smart² conference and
an exhibition programme. The Smart² conference will see 23. 04. 2010. Blue cycle
over 30 of the most interesting individuals and brands in the Conductor: Howard Griffiths
fields of design, architecture, branding, communication and Soloist: Melinda Felletar, harp
media participate, including Jaime Hayon, Bjarke Ingels, Hi- Program:
Res, Arik Levy, X Architekten, Martin Guixe, Werner Aisslinger, G. Bizet: Symphony No. 1
Koiviso Rune, Nendo, Autoban (with an exhibition) and many E. von Donhanyi: Concertino for harp and orchestra
others. The conference satellite programme includes the R. Shchedrin: Carmen Suite (excerpts)
Smart Lab (with various specialised workshops, roundtable
discussions and specially arranged B2B meetings), Design 30. 04. 2010. White cycle
Nights (an international clubbing music festival), Design Conductor: Sir Neville Marriner
Premiers (with screenings of movies), and the Design Park Soloists:Hagai Shaham, Ittai Shapira, Stefan
exhibition (with national and international design pavilions set Milenkovic and Robert Bokor, violins
in unconventional environments). The exhibition programme Program:
will include the 100% Serbia exhibition, presenting the first P. I. Tchaikovsky: Hamlet, overture-fantasy
ever exhibition of Serbia's creative industry's finest, and L. Maurer: Concertante for four violins and orchestra
Belgrade² - an unparalleled mix of design and hedonism that P. I. Tchaikovsky: Symphony No. 3
will be showcased amidst the unique scenery of Belgrade's
streets, store fronts, furniture shops, restaurants, cafés and 14. 05. 2010. Red cycle
of course nightlife venues. Conductor and soloist: Barry Douglas, piano
Program:
L. van Beethoven: Piano concerto No. 5 (Emperor)
F. Mendelssohn: Symphony No. 3 (Scottish)

21. 05. 2010. Blue cycle


Conductor: Peter Marchbank
Soloist: Sol Gabetta, cello
Program:
C. Scott: Aubade
E. Elgar: Violoncello concerto
I. Stravinsky: Le baiser de la fee, ballet suite

28. 05. 2010. Red cycle


Conductor: Thomas Rosner
Soloist: Liana Issakadze, violin
Program:
A. Dvorak: Othello overture
P. I. Tchaikovsky: Violin concerto

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


18 Culture & Events
Belgrade Fair
36th International Building Trade Fair (ufi) - South this event, attend the children’s theatre shows and fashion
East Europe Belgrade Building Expo shows of youngsters and pregnant ladies, and many other
13 - 17 April 2010 things. As always, the entry is free of charge, as well as any
www.seebbe.com programs including children's participation.

4th South-East European Gaming Expo Belgrade


27 - 29 April 2010, from 10:00 - 18:00
www.see-geb.com

According to estimates, there is currently a total of


14,000 gaming machines in the market and most of them
will have to be replaced in the near future by the latest
electronic machines in accordance with new government
requirements. The leading worldwide manufacturers of
equipment, software and related gaming products have
recognised the importance of the South-East European

The Building Trade Fair in Belgrade has become the most


important specialised fair event in this its field in the entire
region of South East Europe. From that 1996 until now, the
Building Trade Fair has grown by more than three times
in terms of its engaged exhibition space and the number
of local exhibitors, while the number of international
exhibitors has increased six-fold and the number of visitors
is a full ten times higher. Specific fields covered include
research and designing, construction and maintenance
of buildings, building constructuion and civil engineering,
hydroconstruction, construction materials, structures
equipping, machines, devices and equipment, adaptation, market (including Bosnia, Macedonia, Croatia, Bulgaria,
reconstruction and restauratuion, building trade crafts Romania and Albania) and the Expo makes it possible
informatics and project control, interior furnishing. to try, compare and buy the latest and greatest that the
field has to offer. And of course, the event is open also to
5th Imlek Children’s Fair the general public.
23 - 25 April 2010
www.decijisajam.rs 54th International Fair of Technique and Technical
Achievements (ufi)
The Children’s Fair will feature exhibitors presenting 11 - 15 May 2010 from 10:00 - 18:00
products and services related to the regular growing and
development of children and babies: garments, shoewear, The International Fair of Technique and Technical
food, toys, children’s cosmetics, furniture; services related Achievements is the most important economic and
to children's education, money savings, insurance; as technological event in Serbia and the whole of South-East
well as publishing activity, creative workshops in dance, Europe, which has got a great influence upon the future
acting and rhythm. industrial development in the country and region. This is
An important part of the fair is an accompanying program a traditional (since 1937) meeting and business contact
of professional lectures, with topics including children's point, which enables numerous exhibitors and visitors
rights, children and social policy, healthy food, as well as to satisfy their business expectations. The fair is visited
the latest pediatric know-how. All visitors will be able to by tens of thousands of professionals, decision makers,
get free samples, buy products that are only available at investors and experts from numerous countries.

Fontain at Nikola Pašić Square

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events 19

Art galleries
25. maj Gallery Botićeva 6, tel. (+381) 11 367 14 85.
4Open 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Mon.
Arte Galerija C-2, Svetogorska 29, tel. (+381) 11 324
39 96, www.arte.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00
Artget C-2, Trg Republike 5/I, tel. (+381) 11 328 14
07, www.kcb.co.yu. 4Open 12:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon O3one Gallery C-2, Andrićev venac 12, tel. (+381)
Beograd Gallery B-2, Kosančićev venac 19, tel. 11 323 87 89, www.o3one.rs 4Open 10:00 - 20:00,
(+381) 11 303 39 23, www.galerijabeograd.org. 4Open Closed Sun
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun Progres Gallery C-2, Zmaj Jovina 10, tel. (+381)
Cvijeta Zuzorić Art Pavilion C-1, Kalemegdan 1, 11 218 26 26. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00,
tel. (+381) 11 262 15 85, www.ulus.org.rs. 4Open Closed Sun
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00 Remont C-2, Makedonska 5/III, tel. (+381) 11 322
Diplomatic club Gallery Bulevar oslobođenja (+381) 34 06, www.remont.net 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Closed
11 317, tel. 309 50 00. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00 Sat, Sun
Euroart Gallery C-2, Makedonska 30 (Eurocentar), RTS Gallery C-2, Takovska 10, (+381) 11 321 18 33.
tel. (+381) 11 337 33 74. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun
11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun Salon of the Museum of Contemporary Art C-1,
FLU Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 53, tel. 263 06 35. Pariska 14, tel. (+381) 11 263 09 40, www.msub.org.
4Open 10:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun rs. 4Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Tue
Belgrade City Library Gallery C-1, Knez Mihailova SANU Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. (+381) 11
56, tel. (+381) 11 202 40 11. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 334 24 00, www.sanu.ac.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu
08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Sun
Gallery 212 C-2, Vlajkovićeva 25, tel. (+381) 11 337 Singidunum Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 40, tel.
32 99, www.galerija212.co.rs. 4Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat (+381) 11 218 53 23, www.ulupuds.org.rs. 4Open
11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun
Grafički kolektiv Gallery C-2, Obilićev venac 27, SKC Gallery C-3, Kralja Milana 48, tel. (+381) 11
tel. (+381) 11 262 77 85, www.grafkol.co.rs. 4Open 268 84 68, www.skc.org.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat
11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun
Haos C-2, Dositejeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 262 74 97, www. Stara Kapetanija Gallery, Kej oslobođenja 8
gallerychaos.com. 4Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 261 20 23. 4Open 10:00 -
Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation Gallery C-2, Studentski 14:00/18:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon
trg 5, tel. (+381) 11 218 57 94, www.kolarac.rs 4Open SULUJ Gallery C-2, Terazije 26/II, tel. (+381) 11 268
10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun 57 80, www.galerijasuluj.org.rs. 4Open 11:00 - 18:00,
KCB Art Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. (+381) Sat 11:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun
11 262 29 26, www.kcb.org.rs 4Open 12:00 - 21:00, Superspace Gallery B-2, Ulica Karađorđeva 2 (Beton
Closed Mon hala, Sava Quay), tel. (+381) 11 328 37 49.
Magacin C-2, Kraljevića Marka 4, www.domomladine. ULUS Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 37, tel. (+381) 11
org. 4Open 12:00 - 19:00 262 31 28, www.ulus.org.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
New Moment Gallery C-2, Hilandarska 14, tel. 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun
(+381) 11 322 99 92, www.newmoment.com. 4Open Zvono Gallery C-1, Višnjićeva 5, tel. (+381) 11 262
09:00 - 17:00 52 43, www.galerijazvono.org. 4Open 12:00 - 19:00,
Sat 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun

Cinemas
Akademija 28 C-3, Nemanjina 28, tel. (+381) 11
361 60 20
DKC C-2, Kolarčeva 6, tel. (+381) 11 262 11 74
Dom sindikata C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel.
(+381) 11 323 48 49
Jadran 2K DPL C-2, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+381) 11
664 20 57
Kolosej B-2, Ušće shopping center, tel. (+381) 11
285 44 95
Museum Art cinema C-1, Uzun Mirkova 2, tel.
(+381) 11 328 18 88
Museum of Yugoslav Film Archives C-2, Kos-
ovska 11, tel. (+381) 11 324 82 50
Palas Šumadija, Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. (+381) 11
355 54 65
Roda cineplex, Požeška 83a, tel. (+381) 11 254
52 60
Ster cineplex, Jurija Gagarina 16 (Delta City), tel.
(+381) 11 220 34 00
Tuckwood Cineplex C-2, Kneza Miloša 7, tel.
(+381) 11 323 65 17
Zvezda C-2, Terazije 40, tel. (+381) 11 268 73 20
The Tuckwood cineplex

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


20 Culture & Events
Theatres
Atelje 212 (drama, comedy) C-2, Svetogorska 21, tel. Venues
(+381) 11 324 73 42, www.atelje212.rs
BDP - Belgrade Drama Theatre (drama) D -3,
Mileševska 64a, tel. (+381) 11 283 70 00, www. Artget gallery C-2, Trg Republike 5
bdp.rs Belgrade Arena A-2, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića
Bitef Theatre (modern dance) C-2, Skver Mire 58, tel. (+381) 11 220 22 22, www.arenabeograd.
Trailović 1, tel. (+381) 11 322 06 08, www.bitef.rs com
Boško Buha Theatre (children’s theatre and evening Belgrade Fair B-3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14,
stage) C-2, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+381) 11 263 28 55, www.sajam.co.rs
www.buha-theater.com Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra C -2,
Dadov (youth and alternative theatre) C-2, Desanke Studentski trg 11, tel. (+381) 11 328 29 77,
Maksimović 6, tel. (+381) 11 324 36 43, www.dadov. www.bgf.co.rs
rs Belgrade Public Bath Cara Dušana 45
Duško Radović (children’s theatre and evening stage) Dom omladine (Belgrade Youth Center) C-2,
C-2, Aberdareva 1, tel. (+381) 11 323 20 72, www. Makedonska 22, tel. (+381) 11 324 82 02, www.
malopozoriste.co.rs domomladine.org
JDP - Yugoslav Drama Theatre (drama) C-3, Kralja Dom sindikata C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel.
Milana 50, tel. (+381) 11 306 19 57, www.jdp.co.rs (+381) 11 323 42 24
Madlenianum Opera and Theatre (opera, ballet, Expo XXI Centre A-2, Španskih boraca 74A, tel.
drama), Glavna 32 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 316 25 33, (+381) 11 328 40 74, www.expoxxi.rs
www.madlenianum.rs Guarneriuss C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel.
National Theatre (drama, opera, ballet) C -2, (+381) 11 334 52 37, www.guarnerius.rs
Trg Republike 1, tel. (+381) 11 262 09 46, www. KCB Art gallery Knez Mihailova 6
narodnopozoriste.co.rs Kolarac (Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation) C -2,
Pinokio (children’s puppet theatre), Karađorđeva 9 Studentski trg 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 05 50, www.
(Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 269 17 15 kolarac.rs
Puž (children’s theatre) D-3, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. (+381) 11 305 50 70
(+381) 11 243 80 36, www.pozoristancepuz.com Legacy House C-2, Knez Mihailova 46
Slavija Theatre (comedy) C-3, Svetog Save 16, tel. Magacin Kraljevića Marka 4
(+381) 11 243 69 95, www.pozoriste-slavija.rs New Belgrade Sport Hall Pariske komune 20
Terazije Theatre (musical, ballet) C-2, Terazije 29, tel. Pionir Sports Centre D-2, Čarlija Čaplina 39
(+381) 11 322 99 43, www.pozoristeterazije.com Rex Cultural Centr e C-1, Jevrejska 16, tel.
Zvezdara Theatre (drama, comedy), Milana Rakića (+381) 11 328 45 34, www.rex.b92.net
38; Tel: (+381) 11 241 96 64, www.zvezdarateatar.rs Sava Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9, tel.
(+381) 11 220 60 60, www.savacentar.com
SKC (Student Cultural Centre) C-3, Kralja Milana
48, tel. (+381) 11 360 20 11, www.skc.org.rs
Tašmajdan Stadium C-2, Beogradska 71
The 25th Maj museum Botićeva 6

Ticket agents
Bilet servis C-2, Trg Republike 5, tel. (+381) 11
303 33 11, www.biletservis.co.rs. 4Open 09:00 -
21:00, Saturday 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.
Eventim A-2, 77 Zorana Đinđića L3-6, tel. (+381)
11 314 98 87 www.eventim-yu.com. 4Open 08:00
- 21:00, Saturday 10:30 - 18:00, Closed Sun.
Ticketline C-2, Čika Ljubina 18-20 (Plato Music
Store), tel. (+381) 11 203 05 70, www.ticketline.
co.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
The statue of Zoran Radmilović in front of Atelje 212

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Where to stay 21

PL RG

Symbol key Zlatnik Dobanovačka 95, tel. (+381) 11 316 75 11,


fax (+381) 11 316 72 35, office@hotelzlatnik.com,
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted www.hotelzlatnik.com. Small and oozing with comfort,
this hotel is located 7km from the city centre, in a peaceful
O Casino H Conference facilities street in Zemun. The hotel was built as an extension to a
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled well-known restaurant which has some of the best cuisine
in town. It is renowned for its high-quality service and
R Internet L Guarded parking is ideal for business people seeking a peaceful rest far
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms from the hustle and bustle of city life. 437 rooms and 4
suites (singles €115-146, doubles €156-170, junior suite
K Restaurant 6 Animal friendly €170-190). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet).
D Sauna C Swimming pool PTRKAHLGhhhhh

Belgrade could easily do with more hotels, in all the Upmarket


categories. During big international events there's Balkan C-2, Prizrenska 2, tel. (+381) 11 363 60 00,
every chance that you won't be able to find any sort of fax (+381) 11 268 75 81, rezervacije@balkanhotel.
accommodation, not for love nor money. If luxury is what net, www.balkanhotel.net. Constructed in 1935 and
you're looking for, there are a number of hotels that have recently renovated, it is located on Terazije Square, in the
been built over the past ten years and are well worth the heart of the city. The rooms are clean, if a little cramped
prices they demand. If your budget is somewhat limited and basic, but they boast an exceptional view of the busy
you can always get a nice, cheap cabin in a floating hostel city centre. The pleasant ground floor level Orient Express
moored off the Danube. Just imagine waking up with a restaurant features international specialities from Paris ti
magnificient view of the river island that is the natural Istanbul, with unique interior design reflecting the Orient
habitat for 196 species of bird. It might be advisable to Express era. 479 rooms and 8 suites (singles €130-180,
be wary of some of the older hotels, where time seems doubles €145-230, suites €210-230). Prices include VAT
to have halted in the late 80s. But sometimes they too and breakfast. PTRKAGhhhh
possess a charm all of their own...

Cream of the crop


Hyatt Regency B-2, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. (+381)
11 301 12 34, fax (+381) 11 311 22 34, belgrade.
regency@hyatt.com, www.belgrade.regency.hyatt.
com. Situated between the Sava Congress Centre and
Ušće Business Centre, this is the most luxurious hotel in
Belgrade, with efficient and professional service, ideal
for all types of meetings and events. The Club Olympus
Fitness & Spa Center is the perfect environment for guests
to relax, enjoy being pampered and finding a peaceful
moment away from tension and stress. The Tea House is
an exclusive and favorite Belgrade meeting spot, offering
a cosy and relaxed atmosphere for both business and
private meetings. 4302 rooms and suites (rooms €187-337,
executive suite €327-477, diplomatic suite €1,187-1337,
presidential suite €1,487-1637). Prices include breakfast
(buffet). VAT and tourist tax not included. PTR
FKDAHULGChhhhh

President Zrenjaninski put 170, tel.(+381) 11 207


52 00, fax (+381) 11 207 52 60, prodaja@president-
belgrade.com, www.president-belgrade.com. A small,
lavishly furnished hotel, located in the Kovilovo Sports
Centre, 12km from the centre of the city. Far from any city
noise, the compound stretches over 26 hectares of park
land and is surrounded by a 100 hectare woodland area
which is ideal for bird-watching. The compound includes one
of the best shooting ranges for clay targets in Europe, tennis
courts, a sporting and hunting equipment shop, a shooting
school, as well as dog kennels too. 417 rooms and 10 suites
(singles €120-150, doubles €150-180, junior suite €220,
superior suite €240). Prices include VAT and breakfast a-la-
carte. PTRFKD6AHLGChhhhh Balkan Hotel Garni

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


22 Where to stay
sports events in Belgrade. Most of the rooms have a view
of the woodland area. 4151 rooms, 21 premier rooms
and 8 suites (singles €100-152, doubles €125-172, suites
€170-215).PTRKAHUGhhhh

Best Western Šumadija Šumadijski trg 8, tel.


Balkan Hotel Garni Požeška 67 A, tel. (+381) 11 (+381) 11 305 41 00, fax: 355 43 68, office@
360 02 00, fax: (+381) 11 355 31 33, reservations@ hotelsumadija.com, w w w.hotelsumadija.com.
balkangarni.rs, www.balkangarni.rs. Part of the 'Balkan' Located in the Banovo Brdo section of the city, 8km from
chain of hotels, the Garni is a new addition to the capital's the city centre and 2km from the Belgrade fairgrounds,
hospitality scene and is located just across the way from it is in close proximity to both the Ada Ciganlija and
the Belgrade Fair. It's not the easiest hotel in the city to find Košutnjak recreational areas. The service is excellent,
as it is within the confines of a shopping centre and street and the hotel has recently been renovated and adapted
signs helping you get there are few and far between. Despite to suit the needs of business people. The rooms are
being in a busy part of the city, the rooms are sound proofed comfortable and decorated in pastel colours. 4 97
from the noise of the traffic outside. The hotel has a total of rooms and 6 suites (singles €115-120, doubles €135,
24 rooms of various types and 12 have spacious balconies. suites €160). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet).
All are equipped with free Wi-Fi internet connections, LCD PTRFKADHGhhhh
televisions, air conditioners, telephones, safes, hair dryers,
bathrobes and other add-ons.The hotel also offers free 24 Continental B -2, Vladimira Popovića 10, tel.
hour shuttle bus service to and from the airport.421 rooms (+381) 11 220 42 04, fax (+381) 11 311 14 02,
and 3 suites (singles €60, doubles €75, suites €110). Prices www.continentalhotelbeograd.com. Situated in New
include VAT and breakfast.AHPRKGhhhh Belgrade and attached to the Sava Congress Centre,
this spacious hotel is only a five minute drive from the
Best Western M Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. city centre. It belonged to the Intercontinental Hotel chain
(+381) 11 309 04 01, fax (+381) 11 309 05 01, until recently. The hotel lobby is as big as a terminal in a
office@hotel-m.com, www.hotel-m.com. The hotel small airport, with rooms that are large but decorated in
is in a rather peaceful part of town, in a forest park area a style that must have seemed the height of fashion in
near the highway and the Red Star and Partizan football the 1980s. There is a banquet hall and a health club with
stadiums, 15 minutes by car from the city centre. It is a swimming pool, sauna, and fitness area. The staff are
renowned for its good service, which means that the very responsive to customers’ needs.4 415 rooms and
customers are always willing to come back for more. As 30 suites (singles € 140-160, doubles €150-170, suites
well as attracting business people, this hotel has also €230-600). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet).
become a favourite place for athletes participating in PTRFKD6AHULGChhhhh

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Where to stay 23

Evropa C-2, Sremska 1, tel. (+381) 11 362 6017, In A-2 Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. (+381)
www.hotelevropa.rs. Situated in the very heart of the 11 310 53 00, fax (+381) 11 310 53 51, frontoffice@
city centre, the unmistakable façade of the Hotel Evropa inhotel-belgrade.rs, www.inhotel-belgrade.com. A
has been a Belgrade landmark for over a century, and tells relatively new hotel opened in 2006 and located right off
the story of its charm and metropolitan spirit. Entering the main thoroughfare in close proximity to the Belgrade
the grand building is akin to crossing a threshold to a Arena. The rooms are spacious, decorated in light colours
different world, where comfort and beauty, tradition and and with modern furniture. An interesting feature is the
modernity, design and functionality, excellent service glass wall separating the bathroom from the rest of the
and the newest technology are all paramount. Guests room. The Rooftop Bar and Lounge is an attractive spot
can use the spa centre, and most services are included for enjoying cocktails in the sun. The hotel is perfect for
in the basic price. An on-site conference room is also business people because it includes conference rooms
available for business meeting or other events. 49 and a business centre, as well as a fitness centre with a
suites (€220-330). Prices include VAT and breakfast. relaxation massage option. 4187 rooms and 28 suites
APRKL6HDUGhhhh (90 singles €165, 66 doubles €185, suites €220-290).
PRFKD6AULGhhhh
Excelsior C-2, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. (+381) 11 323 13
81, recepcija@hotrlexcelsior.rs, www.hotelexcelsior. Le Petit Piaf C-2, Skadarska 34, tel. (+381) 11 303
rs. Located in the city centre, near the Parliament, the 52 52, fax (+381) 11 303 53 53, office@petitpiaf.
Excelsior first opened in 1924. The rooms are also rented com, www.petitpiaf.com. Founded in 2004, this is
out for day use.Make sure you get a room with a view of located in the heart of the bohemian quarter of Skadarlija,
the street and the Pionirski park. 464 rooms (singles €75, near the city centre. The rooms are light and clean and
doubles €95, superior room €85-105). Prices include VAT furnished in a modern style. It also comes with a French
and breakfast.PKARhhh restaurant. 413 rooms and 5 junior suites (6 twin bed
rooms €100, doubles €120, suites €140). Prices include
Holiday Inn A-2, Španskih boraca 74, tel. (+381) 11 VAT and breakfast a-la-carte. PRKAGhhh
310 00 00, fax (+381) 11 310 01 00, www.holidayinn.
com. A new, modern hotel, opened in 2007 and positioned Life Design Hotel C-2, Balkanska 18, tel. (+381) 11
next to the railway tracks in a section of New Belgrade 362 60 90, www.lifedesignhotel.rs. This contemporarily
that is still under construction, it is ideal for people on devised design hotel is situated in the very heart of the city.
business since it has a business centre, 14 meeting and Newly built and designed in a modern fashion, the hotel
conference rooms, and the Expo XXI International Centre is has an elegant architectural plan as well as numerous
adjacent to the hotel. 4140 rooms (singles €180, doubles services all the services expected of a four-star hotel.
€205, 1 suite €250). Prices include VAT and breakfast. Located in the commercial and cultural centre of the city,
PTRFKD6AHULGhhhh it is popular with both business travellers and tourists.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


24 Where to stay
hotel outside Russia which bears the name 'Moscow'. For
many Belgraders, the pastry shop on the ground level is
a favourite venue for a meeting over coffee, and some of
the famous cakes.4 120 rooms and 6 suites (singles €90,
doubles €129, suites €297). Prices include VAT and English
breakfast. PTRKALGhhhh

The décor is subtle and sophisticated, with lots of warm Mr. President C-2, Karađorđeva 75, tel. (+381)
colours and aesthetic diversity. Highly recommended. 11 360 22 22, www.hotelmrpresident.com. A
446 rooms and 6 suites (singles €99-160, doubles €129- new, recently-opened hotel, situated in a modern glass
160, suites €169-270). Price includes VAT and breakfast. building across from the central railway and bus stations,
APRLDGhhhh it's already well-known for its portraits of famous world
statesmen and dictators in each room. The interior design
Majestic C-2, Obilićev venac 28, tel. (+381) 11 328 of the hotel is somewhat exaggerated and accented
57 77, fax (+381) 11 328 49 95, office@majestic. by colourful, neon lighting. The rooms are clean and
rs, www.majestic.rs. Established in 1937, this small, furnished in a modern style, but are somewhat lacking in
comfortable hotel has a tradition of professional, high- daylight.450 rooms and 11 suites (singles €139, doubles
quality service. Situated in the city centre, directly off Knez €169, suites €249-444). Prices include VAT and breakfast.
Mihailova Street, it is surrounded by restaurants and cafés PRKALGhhhh
and is suitable for both tourists and business people. The
rooms are clean, but old-fashioned. This hotel takes great Palace C-2, Topličin venac 23, tel. (+381) 11 218
pride in its King Suite, as it holds a Certificate of Approval 55 85, fax (+381) 11 218 44 58, office@palacehotel.
for quality management and the HACCP system. 487 co.rs, www.palacehotel.co.rs. Located in a side street
rooms and 6 suites (singles €70-105, doubles €130, suites in the city centre, this hotel is just a few minutes’ walk
€155-205). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). from Knez Mihailova street and Kalemegdan.Originally
PTRKAHLGhhhh established In 1923, Palace has numerous loyal guests
who would rather not stay in any other hotel. In past few
Moskva C-2, Balkanska 1, tel. (+381) 11 268 62 55, years all the rooms and apartments have been completely
fax (+381) 11 268 83 89, info@hotelmoskva.rs, www. renovated. Since it is an integral part of a catering school,
hotelmoskva.rs. This elegant hotel on Terazije Square is a number of students conduct their work experience in the
one of the symbols of Belgrade. The Art Nouveau building hotel.The restaurant on the very top floor has a pleasant
was constructed in 1907 and is now a protected building. view of the city. 471 rooms and 15 suites (singles €90,
The rooms are furnished with authentic period furniture doubles €112-135, suites €178). Prices include VAT and
and an impressive collection of paintings. It is also the only breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHGhhhh

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Where to stay 25

PL RG

one large family apartment. Garage and car wash are


available. 411 rooms and 9 suites (singles €133-190,
doubles €163-220). Prices include VAT and breakfast.
AHPRK6Ghhhh

Zira Ruzveltova 35 D-2, tel. (+381) 11 331 48 00,


fax (+381) 11 331 48 01, www.zirahotels.com.
The rooms in this hotel are designed in a contemporary
style and equipped with the latest technology. The staff
members are young and eager to prove themselves and
the food in the restaurant is prepared by an experienced
Italian chef. The hotel has a spacious underground
garage with direct access to the Zira Shopping Mall and
a large supermarket. Walks to the centre of the city are
recommended only to the very enthusiastic - others will
have to rely on taxis. 4116 rooms and 8 suites (doubles
€165). Price includes breakfast (English). VAT not included.
PRGFLKAUhhh

Mid-range
Elegance Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel. (+381) 11
207 50 00, fax (+381) 11 207 50 05, office@
hotelelegance.rs, www.hotelelegance.rs. A new hotel
Prestige B -3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. catering to business people, it provides a satisfactory
(+381) 11 305 74 65, info@hotelprestige.rs, www. alternative to the overbooked downtown hotels. Elegance
hotelprestige.rs. An elegant hotel close to the city is situated on the outskirts of Belgrade, 6km north of
centre, not far from Belgrade Fair and Sava Lake, this the city centre, across the Danube and about 15-20
hotel is ideal for business guests and sportsmen. The minutes by taxi provided there are no bottlenecks on
completely renovated 50 year old restaurant "Bask" offers the bridge. The rooms are well-furnished and simply
national cuisine, vegeterian dishes and meals for diabetics. designed. 440 rooms and 6 suites (singles €36, doubles
Parking is free of charge, and guests have access to the €72, suites €100). Price includes VAT and breakfast.
hotel's and weight room fitness centre adapted for many APRKLGHFhhh
different sports (basketball, volleyball, handball or football).
430 rooms, 4 suites (singles €75-90, doubles €85-125, Kasina C-2, Terazije 25, tel. (+381) 11 323 55 74,
suites €111-239). Prices include VAT and breakfast. fax (+381) 11 323 82 57. One of the oldest hotels in
APRFKHUGLhhhh town, located in the very centre. The interior desperately
needs restoration but is nevertheless clean. You can
Slavija Lux C-3, Svetog Save 2, tel. (+381) 11 244 chose between rooms with a good view of the street and
11 20, fax (+381) 11 243 15 17, rezervacija_lux@ quieter rooms in the back section of the hotel. The rooms
slavijahotel.com, www.slavijahotel.com. Housed in that have been renovated are decent. The elevator is not
a contemporary building on Slavija square, the biggest for those who fear confined spaces. There is a pub on the
intersection in the city and only 1 km from the city centre ground floor, where they serve home-brewed draught beer.
and the Central Railway Station. The rooms are clean but 497 rooms and 5 suites (singles €42-80, doubles €81-
rather tastelessly decorated in the style of the 1980’s (at 102, suites €118-127). Prices include VAT and breakfast.
the risk of repeating ourselves, let us say again that this APRKhhh
is a very frequent occurrence when it comes to hotels
awaiting privatisation). The Panorama restaurant on
the seventh floor has a nice view of the city. 472 rooms
and 12 suites (singles €70-88, doubles €90-100, suites
€111-128). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet).
POTRFKALGhhhh

Townhouse 27 C-2 Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. (+381)


11 202 29 00, www.townhouse27.com. A new and
exclusive boutique hotel in the old town, a few steps
away from Republic Square and Knez Mihailova Street.
Characterised by modern architecture and minimalist
interior design, each room has high-speed Internet, an
espresso machine and a Bang&Olufsen flat screen TV. All
the rooms are non-smoking. The suites will satisfy various
indulgences and the Presidential Suite is furnished with a
Jacuzzi. There is also an option to merge two units into

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


26 Where to stay
next to the hotel, which is available to the hotel’s guests.
Rooms for daytime use only are also available until 18:00
for €30. 424 rooms and 2 suites (singles €50-80, doubles
€70-100, suites €119). PRFKALGhhh

Srbija Ustanička 137c, tel. (+381) 11 289 04 04, fax


(+381) 11 289 24 62, office@hotelsrbija.com, www.
Lav Cara Dušana 240, tel. (+381) 11 316 32 89, fax hotelsrbija.com. Set in an 18-storey concrete building
(+381) 11 316 26 48, www.hotellav.co.rs. A small close to the motorway and 6km from the city centre, most
hotel on the outskirts of Zemun, you will need to take public of the rooms in this hotel have recently been renovated
transport for 20 minutes to get to the city centre. The and equipped with modern - yet not overly attractive -
rooms are decent and clean and will appeal to those who furniture. Some single bedrooms have no air conditioning.
like flowered patterns on chairs and armchairs. 24 hr room The hotel is frequently visited by large groups of tourists
service. The rooms can also be rented out for daytime rest. and sports teams. 4233 rooms and 13 suites (singles
429 rooms and 2 suites (singles €60, doubles €85, triples €47-60, doubles €66, suites €89-115). Prices include VAT
€98, suites €98-110). Price includes VAT and breakfast. and breakfast (buffet). PTKALGhhh
APRKGHLhh

Orašac Luke Vojvodića 25n, tel. (+381) 11 256 Budget


10 90, www.hotelorasac.co.rs. A small hotel in the BG City Hotel C-2, Savski Trg 7, tel. (+381) 11 66
suburbs, some 12 km away from the centre of the city 44 055, bgcityhotel@yahoo.com. Freshly renovated
(a 20-30min. taxi ride from the centre, depending on the at the end of 2009 and located on the same central
time of the day). The Košutnjak forest park is close by, square as the main train station, BG City is one of the best
with its many attractions, not least the great nature walks value options in the entire city. Housed in a beautiful neo-
and sports facilities. The rooms are comfortable and well- renaissance building with high ceilings and large rooms, all
furnished. 47 rooms and 6 suites (singles/doubles €76, of the furnishings are new and three-star amenities come
suites €112). Price includes VAT and breakfast. Simboli: standard in every room. Guarded parking is also available,
APRKLG6Hhhh but it's limited so make sure to reserve a space in advance.
447 rooms (singles €36-43, doubles €55-63, suites €63-
Park C-3, Njegoševa 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 364 03 83, 87). PHALROhhh
fax 364 03 93, www.hotelparkbeograd.rs. A hotel
right smack in the centre of the city, this is a well-equipped Bristol C-2, Karađorđeva 50, tel. (+381) 11 268 84 00,
place with all the amenities required for a pleasant stay. fax (+381) 11 303 71 61. Located right next to the arrivals
One key feature is the in-house gym which can be used platform of the central bus station, housed in a beautiful 1912
free-of-charge and massages and relaxation in the Jacuzzi building. The hotel is run by an army agency which probably
can be enjoyed at discounted rates. The restaurant explains why, in spite of the fact that the hotel has not been
serves local and international cuisine and also lays on
business lunches, cocktail parties, banquets and wedding
receptions. 4128 rooms (singles €40-65, doubles €70-
90, triples €105-125, suites €90-100). Prices include
breakfast.APRKHLhhh

Rex C-3, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361 18 62, fax 361


29 65, www.hotelrex-belgrade.com. A small hotel in
a noisy street near the train station. Most of the rooms
have recently been renovated and offer an adequate
level of comfort for the price you pay. The beds are
comfortable, the rooms clean and the staff friendly. There
is a supermarket nearby and one of the most popular
night clubs in the city is just across the street from the
hotel. 492 rooms (singles €70, doubles €90, triples
€98, suites €98-110). Price includes VAT and breakfast.
APKHLhhh

Skala Bežanijska 3, tel. 307 50 32, www.hotelskala.


rs. Located in a beautiful old house in the centre of Zemun,
which is a 15 minute drive from the city centre. The rooms
are nice and cosy, and the staff are friendly. The spacious
hotel restaurant, known for its attractive ambiance,
frequently hosts weddings and other festive events. 414
rooms and 2 suites (singles €65, doubles €86, suites €96).
Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRKAhhh

Slodes Borska 92f, tel. (+381) 11 305 55 18, www.


hotelslodes.com. A new hotel opened at the end of
2006 and housed in an unseemly building located 8km
from the city centre. Though the rooms are not very large
or tastefully decorated, they are nevertheless clean and
some of them have a jacuzzi. This is the ideal hotel for
the sporty, since there is a large sports hall situated right

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Where to stay 27

PL RG

renovated for at least 30 years, the rooms are clean and neat the best hotels in town. The service is not as bad as the
and period furniture is reasonably preserved. If you don’t mind place itself, literally falling apart and waiting for a new
the oversized antediluvian TV boxes and the noise generated owner to renovate it. Most hostels will offer much better
during the day by the bus station and heavy traffic, you will accommodation. On the upside you will probably be able
get very decent accommodation for little outlay. The third to find a room here when all the other hotels are full, given
floor houses the recently renovated 'Gold Suite’ which is not its excellent location close to the centre of the city. The Jat
available for hire. Rockefeller stayed there in the twenties, Airways shuttle bus service to the airport departs in front
and his son in the seventies, so it seems that this luxury of the hotel, garage. 4161 rooms and 12 suites (singles
suite is kept for the Rockefeller family in case they decide to €34, doubles €47, suites €69). Price includes VAT and
revisit Belgrade.449 rooms and 5 suites (singles €28-39, breakfast. AHKhh
doubles €43, triples €61, suites €61). Prices include VAT and
breakfast. AKRhh Taš C-2, Beogradska 71, tel. (+381) 11 324 35 07,
info@hotel-tas.com, www.hotel-tas.com. A smallish
N Bilećka 57, tel. (+381) 11 397 21 83, office@ hotel, with all its walls painted blue and located in the
hotel-n.rs, www.hotel-n.rs. Opened in 1996, it is Tašmajdan sports centre near the centre of the city.
situated in a residential neighbourhood, 20 minutes Rooms for daytime use only are available until 18:00
by car from the centre of the city. Although the hotel is for the price of €11-17. 415 rooms and 2 suites (singles
somewhat remote part of the city, the rooms are decent €32, doubles €45, suites €65). Prices include VAT and
and furnished in a modern style. Holders of the Euro26 breakfast. PKAhh
youth card are entitled to a 50 per cent discount. 4111
rooms (singles €31-62, doubles €68-85). Prices include Trim Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. (+381) 11 354 06 69,
VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHGhhh office@trim.org.rs, www.trim.org.rs. Situated in the
Košutnjak forest park area, 9km from the centre and far
Pošta C-2, Savska 3, tel. (+381) 11 361 42 60, from any city noise. Most of the small but clean and cosy
office@hotelpostabg.com, www.hotelpostabg.com. rooms have a view of the park. 423 rooms and 1 suite
Established in 1938 and recently renovated, Posta is close (singles €35, doubles €57, suite €63). Prices include VAT
to the railway station. It is a small and pleasant hotel, known and breakfast. PTKAHLhh
for its hospitality and friendly staff. 424h room service,
internet-cafe. 432 rooms (singles €31, doubles €46). Prices
include VAT and breakfast. PTKAhhh Guest houses
Bed & breakfast Granžan Sinđelićeva 6, (+381)
Prag C-2, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. (+381) 11 321 44 11 261 34 23, info@bedandbreakfastbelgrade.com,
44, fax (+381) 11 361 26 91, hotelprag@sezampro. www.bedandbreakfastbelgrade.com. Very close
rs, www.hotelprag.co.rs. Housed in a protected building to Gardoš, this serene retreat is a family house with a
that dates from 1929, this hotel is excellently located given beautiful view over the Danube. The owners offer bed
that it is only 5 minutes away from the central railway and breakfast in 3 luxurious rooms with art decor and a
and bus stations and only two minutes away from the bathroom. A cafe gallery on the ground floor and the quiet
very heart of the city. Key facilities in the place - such as surroundings are ideal for anyone looking for peace and
the reception area and restaurant - have been renovated quiet. 43 rooms ( doubles €60, single use €50). Price
recently and the rooms have also been given face-lifts. The include VAT and breakfast. ARG
staff are friendly and ready to respond to any queries and
concerns and a rooms are equipped with all the modern City Code C-2, Dobračina 26, tel. (+381) 11 328 85
amenities guests can expect from 21st century hotel. 00, www.hotelcitycode.com. Luxury apartments with a
482 rooms (singles €79-92, doubles €106, triples €117- contemporary interior, in close proximity to the city centre.
129, suites €157-192). Prices include VAT and breakfast. Also in the vicinity is Stahinjića Bana Street, famous for
PTKAGHhhh its numerous bars and restaurants. Discrete service and
24hr room service as well. The street these apartments
Royal C-1, Kralja Petra 56, tel. (+381) 11 263 42 are located on is not very busy or noisy, except for when
22, fax (+381) 11 262 64 59, www.hotelroyal.co.rs. trolleybuses pass by on their way to the garage. 46 rooms
This is the oldest functioning hotel in the city, and dates (singles €100, doubles €120). Price includes VAT and
back to 1886, with its most recent renovation being 1973. breakfast. APRG
It is near to both the city centre and Kalemegdan. The
rooms are clean but fairly basic, and some do not have Queen's Apartments C-2, Đure Daničića 13,
air conditioning. The hotel is known for its inexpensive but tel. (+381) 11 322 88 40, fax 334 77 94, office@
quality restaurant which is open around the clock. Its small queensapartments.rs, www.queensapartments.rs.
shop and Internet café are also open around the clock. Located in a house dating back to the beginning of the
4105 rooms and 15 suites (singles €30-38, doubles 20th century, not far from the city centre. The apartments
€40-55, suites €72). Prices include VAT and continental are quite spacious (120 m2) and well-equipped and
breakfast. PKAGhhh include a kitchen and a jacuzzi. A pleasant restaurant, the
Pogođena Patka, is located on the ground level. Concierge
Slavija C-3, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. (+381) 11 244 11 service. 42 suites (singles €150, doubles €200, four
20, fax (+381) 11 243 15 17, www.slavijahotel.com. person €300). Prices include VAT and break fast.
Also known as Slavija 2 or Slavija B. Certainly not among PTRKA

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


28 Where to stay
Rezime Crown B-2, Knez Mihailova 33, tel. (+381)
11 262 74 71, rezimecrown@gmail.com, www.
rezimegroup.com. Situated in the very heart of Belgrade
in a two storey 19th century building without any lift. The
size of the apartments varies from 75 to 90m2, while the
furniture reflects the 19th century atmosphere. Most of
the apartments are named after famous painters and
have views of Knez Mihailova Street. The entrance is not rent. Though not very large, each of these wonderfully
that impressive since it is a protected building and it is comfortable rooms includes cable TV, a mini-bar and a
impossible to make any changes to the exterior.4 10 suites modern bathroom. Some of the rooms have a view of
(€ 165-180), prices include VAT, city tax and breakfast a la Skadarlija - the vintage street packed with restaurants
carte for one, with a € 15 breakfast and €1,25/per day (city and galleries. The friendly staff will adapt check-in/
tax) surcharge for a second person.APR check-out times to suit customers’ needs. The building’s
ground level harbours a tiny restaurant with checked
Rezime Residence C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 22, tablecloths, and featuring Serbian and Italian specialties.
tel. (+381) 11 262 91 81, fax (+381) 11 334 88 37, 45 rooms (singles €60-70, doubles €88-98, suites
rezime@sbb.rs, www.rezimegroup.com. Perfect choice €188). PRA
for anyone looking for accommodation in a quiet street
in the downtown area. Housed in an authentic building Villa Belvedere Dr. Nedeljka Ercegovca 39, tel.
which is protected as a cultural heritage site, RR offers (+381) 11 316 04 33, www.villabelvedere.rs. Ideal
elegantly furnished apartments (35-60m2). There is a for businessman and the anyone wanting to escape from
public garage within walking distance from the hotel and the bustle outside. This hotel, with its accompanying
Knez Mihajlova Street is also nearby. This place is suitable luxurious apartments is well away from the city noise
for anyone requiring peace and quiet, since the entrance to and close to the Danube and the airport. Villa has a large
the building is only for the hotel’s guests. 410 suites (€115, yard, parking space and garages, video surveillance,
135, 150), prices include VAT, city tax and breakfast a la restaurant. Every apartment is equipped with a LCD TV,
carte for one, with a €10 (breakfast) and €1,25/ per day mini bar, air conditioning, telephone line, Wi-Fi, balcony
(city tax) surcharge for the second person. APR and a breathtaking view over Belgrade.4 5 apartments
(singles €100, doubles € 130, triples € 160). Prices include
Travelling Actor C-2, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel. VAT and breakfast. APKGL6
(+381) 11 323 41 56, www.travellingactor.rs. If you
take a right turn after entering through the old wooden Villa Forest Majevička 2m, (+381) 11 319 63 24,
door, you will be led to another nondescript door at the www.gh-forest.com. A new guest house, 7 km away
very end of the hallway, where you will find rooms for from both the city centre and airport, very close to the
motorway, this is ideal for business travellers because
it offers a conference room for meetings with all the
appropriate technical equipment (seating up to 20 people).
Being awakened by birds from the surrounding park is a
fine experience here. The rooms are nicely decorated
with modern furniture, all with a direct telephone line
and bathrooms that meet high standards. 418 rooms
and 6 suites (singles €57, doubles € 69 – 73, suite € 89)
APKHL

Villa Manjež B-2, Svetozara Markovića 49, tel.


(+381) 11 362 11 11, fax. (+381) 11 362 11 11,
office@manjez.rs, www.manjez.rs. A recently built
villa, related to a famous and one of Belgrade’s oldest
national restaurants, Manjež offers tranquility in the city
centre, though you will not be impressed by the view. The
rooms offer traditional decor and modern equipment. If you
suddenly feel hungry, room service offers real restaurant
food. 44 rooms and 2 suites (singles €65, doubles €75,
suites €85). Prices include VAT, breakfast and resident tax
are not included. APGR

Villa Kalemegdan C-1, Strahinjića Bana 7, tel. (+381)


11 263 78 56, fax (+381) 11 218 55 86, reservation@
villakalemegdan.com, www.villakalemegdan.com.
Offers wonderfully decorated luxury suites, situated in the
immediate vicinity of Kalemegdan park, in a peaceful section
of a street famous for its numerous cafés and restaurants.
Apart from the standard bathroom, the Royal Suite also has
a jacuzzi. 46 suites (singles €100, doubles €125). Prices
include VAT and breakfast. PRAL

www.inyourpocket.com

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Where to stay 29

PL RG

Villa Marija Debarska 12, tel. (+381) 11 244 have excellent views of. They are equipped with a TV,
84 84, vilabgd@vila-marijabgd.com. Located in a mini bar, telephone, internet and air conditioning and the
peaceful, residential neighbourhood just a few kilometres villa has video surveillance, so you don’t have to worry
from the city centre, this hotel has comfortable and well- about your safety. Morning drinks (tea or coffee,) are
equipped rooms. The guests may use the common living free of charge.410 rooms (1 single €45, 9 doubles €70,
room, the well-equipped kitchen, as well as the spacious extra bed €25). Prices include VAT but not the residential
terrace providing an excellent setting for a BBQ. 410 tax. APGR
rooms (singles €80, doubles €80). Prices include VAT
and breakfast (buffet). PTRALG
Apartments
Villa Nevenka Luke Vojvodića 24, tel. (+381) 11 Apollo 011 Subotička 23, tel. (+381) 63 11 6
305 65 17, info@villa-nevenka.com, www.villa- 19 82, office@apollo011.in.rs, www.apollo011.
nevenka.com. A recently-built villa located on top of in.rs. An affordable high-class apartment with 41m²
Košutnjak hill, offering tastefully decorated rooms. floor area, located in a newly constructed building on
The villa is in the forest, not far away from the outdoor the 3rd floor. The apartment consists of one bedroom,
swimming pools of the Košutnjak Sports Centre, sports bathroom, completely equipped kitchen and balcony.
facilities and a trim trail. A few kilometres’ distance from It is furnished with cable TV, radio, high speed internet
the city centre should not present a problem to those connection, telephone, and security door. The building
who crave a restful sleep after a long day exploring the has an elevator, interphone and disabled access. Close
city. 420 rooms (singles €50, doubles €80, triples €100). to the apartment, there are bus and trolley-bus stops,
Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRGL so you can reach the downtown proper in no time. 441
suites (singles €40, doubles €40, triples €60). No charge
Villa Zemun Fruškogorska 1, tel. (+381) 62 66 14 for children under 8. Cash deposit (€100 - refundable)
14, office@vilazemun.com, www.vilazemun.com. and resident tax (131 dinars per person, per night) are
Boasts comfortable new rooms only minutes from a not included. PUG
popular promenade on the Danube river bank in Zemun.
All of them are entered from the yard, of which they also
Hostels
ArkaBarka floating Belgrade hostel A-1 ,
Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel. (+381) 64 925 35 07,
www.arkabarka.net. A floating hostel on the Danube,
made of wood and surrounded by trees, perfect for
nature-lovers who like waking up to bird song and don’t
mind taking a short walk to the nearest bus stop. The
rooms are nice and clean. They also have a lovely bar
on the water where parties are occasionally held. 42
doubles €35 per room, 4 triples €47 per room, 2 suites
€50-60 per suite. Prices include VAT and breakfast.
PRKA6LG

Beli Grad C-3, Nemanjina 42 / II, tel. (+381) 11 36


12 126, (+381) 64 27 99 009, www.hostelbeligrad.
com Located on Slavija Square, this cosy three room
hostel is about as central as you can get and the staff
have a reputation of being some of the friendliest and
most helpful around. When they're not offering to prepare
free coffee or tea (or rakija) or do your laundry, they're
making sure that the place is kept per fectly clean.
4Highly recommended.3 rooms (8-bed dorm €10-13,
6-bed dorm €13-16, private room €20-30). P6GR

Hostel Beli Grad


42 NEMANJINA STREET,
SLAVIJA SQUARE
+381 11 36 12 126
www.hostelbeligrad.com
hostelbg@gmail.com

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


30 Where to stay

Centar C-2, Gavrila Principa 46a, tel. (+381) 11 Cricket C-3, Makenzijeva 46, tel. (+381) 11 244
761 96 86, www.hostelcentar.com. AA large hostel 19 66, www.crickethostel.com. This charming new
in a three-floor building, with well-furnished rooms (cable hostel is located only a 10 minute walk from Republic
TV, PC, air ionizer, telephone) and kitchen and bathroom square and 5 minutes from Slavija square. It includes
on every floor. It is located close to the Central Railway bright and cheerful colours in the interior and polite staff
Station and Bus Station, near the centre of the city. who will provide you with important info on city events.
The hostel has made a good name for its cleanliness There are also 3 balconies, bike rental, a common
and towels and sheets are changed daily. Each guest room equipped with TV and DVD, a small library, a film
will receive a welcoming gift containing various trifles, collection and various games. 44 rooms (1 double €19,
from slippers to chocolate. 49 rooms (2 doubles €22, 2 4-bed dorm €16, 1 8-beed dorm €13). Prices do not
3 triples €21, 3 4-bed dorms €20, 5-bed dorm €20). include residential tax 121 dinars (around €1.5). VAT
PRK A G included. A R

Central Station C-2, Karađorđeva 87, tel.(+381) Crossroad C -1, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel.
11 66 85 067, www.hostelcentralstation.com. (+381) 11 263 75 70, www.crossroad-hostel.com.
Situated on the first floor of an old house across from This is a nicely decorated, cosy apartment, situated
the Train Station. Although the building’s façade and near the city centre, with a living room, dining room,
ground floor hallway appear run-down, the hostel kitchen, bathroom, and two bedrooms. Clean and comfy.
itself is quite decent. The rooms are large and clean, 42 rooms (doubles €45, triples €55). Prices include
decorated with bright colours, and there’s a sufficient VAT. PR A G
number of toilets and shower compartments. There’s
also a common mini-kitchen where guests can prepare Happy hostel C-3, Kralja Milutina 28, tel. tel.
their own food. 48 doubles €20, 2 triples €20, 4-bed (+381) 11 361 94 14, www.happy-hostel.com.
dorm €15, 3, 5-bed dorm €15,3 8-bed dorm €12(prices Hostel on Slavija Square in the immediate vicinity of
per bed). PG the main bus / railway station. The hostel looks happy
in every way: carpets and bed linen are in lively colours
Chilton C-3, Katanićeva 7, tel. (+381) 11 344 and the staff are young and pleasant. It is situated on
18 26. Even though it’s about 2 km from the centre, the 2nd floor of a freshly renovated building. A common
this is still one of the most popular hostels. The rooms sitting room, kitchen, two bathrooms and a baggage
are filled with beds, there are only two toilets and room make a total of four bedrooms 4(1 double € 25,
two shower compartments, but there’s also a very 1 four-bedded €16, 1 eight-bedded €12) Prices include
comfortable living room and a large kitchen with a wood- VAT. PRG
burning stove, which is a favourite congregation point
for guests. The friendly staff keep the guests informed Hostel Captain C-1, Kapetan Mišina 16, tel.
about upcoming club events and concerts. 44-bed (+381) 1 1 21 8 1 819, of f ice@hostelcaptain.
dorm €15-19, 6-bed dorm €8-15, 10-bed dorm €10-13 com, www.hostelcaptain.com. Hostel Captain is
(prices per bed). Prices include VAT. PRG one of Belgrade’s leading hostels and is located very
conveniently in the city centre. The spacious common
City Center C-2, Savski trg 7, tel. (+381) 11 264 room with TV and Internet access, as well as the kitchen,
40 55, www.hostelcitycenterbelgrade.com. A huge is on the ground floor, with the bedrooms on the first
hostel opposite the train station. The furniture and and the second floor. Whether you’re a backpacker,
rugs are quite old but the rooms are sunny and clean businessman or woman or in group of friends and
and offer nice views. Shared bathrooms, but separate looking for great value accommodation that is clean
for men and women. Each room has a washbasin and and guarantees a comfortable night’s sleep then Hostel
some even have their own shower. 441 doubles €22- Captain is a very good bet when visiting Belgrade. 45
37, 6 triples €26-33, 3 suites €45, 5 4-bed dorms rooms (singles €30, doubles €40, triple €55, 4-bed
€9.75, 3 8-bed dorms €8.75. Prices include VAT. dorm €68, 6-bed dorm €90. Pices per room). Prices
PKO6 A include VAT. P6R

Hostel Fair B-3, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 37-39,


(+381) 11 369 2506, (+381) 65 88 99 238,
hostelfair@gmail.com As the name implies, this place
is situated directly opposite the Belgrade Fair, meaning
that beds can be hard to come by during events. Despite
being located in a rather rough looking commercial
building, the hostel has a lot going for it. Still relatively
new, the spotless premises have been completely
renovated, with lots of bright colours and stylish modern
touches. A huge lounge area in the front runs the entire
width of the building, which is great for guests who'd like
to socialise, since the majority of rooms have only two
to four beds. 417 rooms (doubles €25, 4-bed dorm
€20, 6-bed dorms €15) PH A R

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Where to stay 31

PL RG

In Old Shoes C-2, Brankova 18/II, (+381) 11 218 clubbing. 46 rooms (doubles € 36 twin private room
3650, (+381) 64 136 65 05, info@inoldshoes.com, € 35, triples €16, 4-bed dorm €14, 6-bed dorm €12,
www.inoldshoes.com Compact and quirky, staying 10-bed dorm € 12). PR
at that Old Shoes feels like something in between the
hostelling and couchsur fing experience. Located just The New Inn C-2, Prizrenska 1, tel. (+381) 11
down the hill from Republic Square and within easy 36 12 341, office@thenewinnbelgrade.com, www.
walking distance of the entire city centre, this place thenewinnbelgrade.com. This hostel is hidden away,
is a great option for budget travellers looking for a just off Terazije Square, in the centre of the city, on the
quiet homey experience. 43 rooms (8-bed dorm €10, second floor of a historic building, so don’t be surprised
doubles €15). PRG by the exterior. It is 350 metres from the train and bus
stations and within walking distance from anything you
J a s m i n B/C - 2 , 6 9 K a r a d j o r d j e v a , (+ 3 8 1 ) may need in the centre. PlayStation, a well equipped
6 3 2 3 1 70 0, (+ 3 8 1) 1 1 2 1 8 4 4 1 1 , o f f i c e@ kitchen and a large balcony with a beautiful view over
hostelbelgradejasmin.com, www. the square and Hotel Moskva means the place can very
hostelb elgradeja smin.com O n e o f th e n ewest much be recommended. The hostel has one private
hostels in Belgrade, Jasmin is also one of the best, double bedroom with a separate bathroom and TV.
and it's location opposite the central bus train stations 45 rooms (1 double € 35, 1 triple € 26, 1 4-bed dorm
makes it the most convenient choice for new arrivals. € 22, 1 6-bed dorm € 17, 1 8- bed dorm € 15). Prices
The old town is easily reached on foot, but if you prefer include VAT. P A RG
public transport several tram lines stop right outside
as well. Everything in the recently renovated flat is Three Black Cats C-2, Čika Ljubina 7/49, tel.
new, and the laid back staff are more than happy to (+381) 11 262 98 26, www.hostel.rs. Very close
recommend the best parties and let guests sleep in to Knez Mihailova Street, but somewhat difficult to
late if no one else is checking in the next day. 420 find. The small and cramped hostel with colourful walls
beds (8-bed dorm €12, 5-bed dorm €15, double €20, covered in posters is frequented by outgoing young
single €25 per person). PRL people, as this is the ideal place for them to recuperate
from all-night partying, after which they can find neither
Manga C -2 , Resavska 7, tel. (+381) 1 1 324 their socks nor their beds. 45 rooms (4-bed dorms
38 77, www.mangahostel.com. Manga Hostel is €11.5, 6-bed dorm €12.5). Prices per bed and include
owned and run by a young and chatty couple who will VAT. A RG
only be too happy to help you explore the city. This
is a genuine backpackers’ hostel, very comfortable Tis Koste Abraševića 17, tel. (+381) 11 380 60
and pleasantly furnished. It is located in the centre of 50, www.tishostel.co.rs. A large house with a yard
the town, surrounded by shops, restaurants and city far from the city centre, in a quiet residential area. The
transport stops offering a ride to almost any part of common room is comprised of a few separate sections.
the city. The hostel features a bedside lamp and locker There is also a large kitchen and an attractive backyard
for each bed, hygienic mattress, TV/common room and where barbecues are often organised in good weather.
fully equipped kitchen. 44 rooms (1 single €23-28, 2 It is possible to rent the entire hostel for larger groups.
4-bed dorms €15-18, 1 10-bed dorm €10-13). Prices 443 doubles €14.7, 8 6-bed dorms 12.7 (prices per
include VAT, coffee and tea during the day and internet bed). Prices include VAT. P A RGL
access. PRG
Yachting Club Kej B-1, Ušće bb, tel. 316 54 32,
Star C-1, Cara Uroša 37, tel. (+381) 11 218 41 www.klubkej.com. A floating hostel on the Danube.
04, www.star-hostel.com One of the oldest hostels Guests are accommodated in twin-bed cabins with
in Belgrade, located in the city centre, overlooking large windows. A su f ficient number of toilets and
Kalemegdan park – which is a rarity for hostels or showers. Very clean. There’s a restaurant on the boat,
hotels in this city. The rooms are nice and clean and as well as a catamaran which takes guests cruising
you can chill out in cosy lazy bags. The pleasant hostel down the Danube every night and offers home-brewed
staff will supply you with all the necessary information draught beer along with music. 49 doubles €14 per
on a city that never sleeps and may even join you in bed. RK6 A HG

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


32 Restaurants
Serbian cuisine is a reflection of the historical circumstances
the country has been exposed to throughout the centuries - a
French
combination of various culinary influences prepared in an
Absinthe C-3, Kralja Milutina 33, tel. (+381) 11 364
06 25. The only French bistro in town. The food is generally
entirely unique and original way. The food served in restau-
decent but can sometimes be a real let-down, especially
rants is healthy and completely organic, with no genetically
if the place is crowded. The interior features a long bar,
modified products or artificial flavourings and the portions
tables that are pushed too close together and large mir-
tend to be large. Most meals are prepared with a substantial
rors on the walls. The service could be better, to be frank.
quantity of meat and served with a variety of vegetables.
During the day the atmosphere here is quite enjoyable
‘Home-cooked’ meals tend to be spicier.
but in the evenings the bar area tends to be noisy and
swarming with people, so it’s not exactly the best option
Asian for an intimate dinner date4Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. €€. PRA
Ginger A-1, Boulevard Nikola Tesla 3, tel. (+381)
11 220 28 22, www.grandcasinobeograd.com. Part Le Moliere C-2, Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. (+381) 11 218 81
of Grand Casino Belgrade, the dishes at this pan-Asian 61. Authentic French bistro located right next to the French
restaurant are inspired by a combination of flavours of the Cultural Centre. The menu, although not extensive, features
Far East - Chinese, Indian, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese the classical marvels of French cuisine: French onion soup, foie
cuisine among them - and prepared in an open kitchen. The gras, escalopes with red wine and onion sauce, crème brûlée
999 dinars buffet gives you the possibility to taste a bit of and chocolate soufflé. Their daily menu (valid until 18:00)
everything, with the exception of sushi. An entrance pass is includes a different French dish each day. You may order
required, so don’t forget your ID or passport. 4Open 12:00 French wines and champagne by the glass. Tread carefully
– 01:00, Sat,Sun 12:00 – 03:00. €€. PALG when you go down the stairs on the way to the toilet because
the stairway isn’t high enough for most people. 4Open 09:00
- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. PASR
Chinese
Peking C-2, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. (+381) 11 218
19 31, www.peking.co.rs. Belgrade’s first ever Chinese Fusion
restaurant, established nearly thirty years ago, with a Diva A-1, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. (+381) 11 220
long-standing tradition of quality. Tucked into one of the 28 22, www.grandcasinobeograd.com. One of the most
side streets in the city centre, this restaurant always luxurious restaurants in Belgrade is housed in Grand Casino,
has a table available. They have various specialties from Hotel Yugoslavia at the Zemun Quay. Only registered guests
different regions in China, as well as Chinese wines, brandy may enter the casino and this applies to all casino facilities,
and teas. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00-23:00. €€. including the Diva restaurant. Registration is free and takes
PTBASG place at the entrance. It entails having your photo taken,
filling out a form and presenting your ID or passport. It is well
worth spending the time to do this to gain access to what is
an elegant restaurant. It features first class fusion specialties
prepared by internationally acclaimed chefs and a large
selection of wines. The prices are suited to the ambiance but
there is a special offer, Eat&Play package offering full dinner
(from the daily menu) and 1,000 RSD credit for gambling in
the casino, all for the price of 2,490 dinars. Reservations
required. 4Open 19:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAEL.

Majik C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 38a, tel. (+381)


11 334 86 90, www.majikcafe.com. An attractive
restaurant designed by the famed Karim Rashid. Modern art
enthusiasts will find it fascinating regardless of the food, which
unfortunately tends to be rather bland. The Funky Fusion Food
Menu is designed to reflect the restaurant’s unusual interior
design (with colour-changing walls) but it still falls short of
satisfying the taste buds of a true hedonist. The glass wall
dividing the kitchen from the restaurant will reveal that not
all the cooks are wearing their caps. Local DJs perform in the
evenings. The general impression is enhanced by the amiable
hostess and the fantastic chocolate soufflé. 4Open 09:00 -
01:00. €€€. PBRAS

Zaplet D-3, Kajmakčalanska 2, (+381) 11 240 41 42.


Always fresh and innovative, this Vračar-based restaurant is
one of Belgraders’ favorite places. The establishment offers
mainly fusion cuisine, so don’t let the unusual mixtures of
flavors confuse you. It might look contradictory at first glance
but once you taste the food you’ll lose any preconceptions
you might have had before. There are also a wide range of
traditional Serbian dishes and surprisingly some of the best
“ćevapčići” in town, as well as sumptuous lamb with potatoes.
Everything fits perfectly together here – from the minimalist
interior, staff livery, to the manner in which the food is served.
4Open 09:00 – 23:00, Closed Mon. €€. PBRAS

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants 33

Franš C-3, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. (+381) 11


Symbol key 264 19 44, www.frans.rs. An elegant restaurant named
after the French general, Franchet d’Esperey. It has an
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted incredibly extensive menu with Serbian and international
E Live music S Take away dishes, an excellent selection of wines (over 400 types from
all parts of the world) and specialties made of black or white
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled truffles. This restaurant also owns an impressive collection
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking of paintings that decorate the walls.4Open 10:00 - 01:00,
Closed Sun. €€. PBASL
O Casino B Terrace
R Internet 6 Animal friendly Hungry Duck B-3, Ruska 3, (+381) 11 369 49 77, The
cool name might be the biggest draw for first time visitors,
but this small bistro-style restaurant-cum-wine bar near the
Belgrade Fair is a favourite among locals and finding an open
Greek seat can pose a problem at any time of day. The menu is full
Zorba D-2, Kraljice Marije 3, tel. (+381) 11 337 65 of pastas, grilled dishes and salads - their cylindrical take
47, www.zorba.co.rs. A restaurant with a number of on Wiener Schnitzel (with cream cheese and red peppers) is
authentic specialties from the various regions of Greece. especially recommended - and the wine list is even longer,
All the dishes are prepared with olive oil and Greek wines with everything from €6 carafes of table wine to €200 bottle
are also available. One of only five restaurants in the world of Moët. This place would undoubtedly be a huge hit with the
guarding the secret recipe for the topping of the famous Rota hipster set were located in Brooklyn.4Open 09:00 - 23:00,
pie. The unimpressive interior shouldn’t be an issue, as this Closed Sun. €. PAL6
place is well worth visiting for one compelling reason - the
truly good food.4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Iguana B-2, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 3283
Sun 12:30 - 24:00. €€. PTBASG 749. Formerly known as Superspace, one of the Belgrade’s
finest jazz clubs, the Iguana restaurant kept the interior of
the former club and spiced it up with a unique gastronomic
Indian experience. Located at the currently very popular Beton
Maharaja Ljubićka 1b, tel. (+381) 11 344 62 35, www. hala complex, the restaurant has a magnificent view of
maharaja.rs. One of Belgrade's only Indian restaurants, the Sava River and Branko Bridge. The central part of the
Maharaja passes the authenticity test with a menu full restaurant is a small stage that hosts jazz gigs each night
of superb dishes from the sub-continent prepared in a at around 1900. The music is discreet and perfectly fits
traditional tandoori oven. As should be expected, some the whole ambience. The range of meals on offer on the
of the dishes are extremely hot so be sure to to tell your menu is not that extensive but the mixtures of different
waiter if you prefer a milder version of the meal. Since the flavours make it very special. There is a decent selection
restaurant is a bit removed from the city centre the best way of wines available and the friendly staff will make sure
to get there is by taxi.4Open 12:00 - 24:00, Closed Mon. that your choice complements your food. For those with a
€€. PBASG sweet tooth we recommend the restaurant’s famous warm
date cake. 4Open 10.00 – 2.00, Sun 10.00 – 12.00. €€.
PBRASE
International
Balzac C-1, Strahinjića Bana 13, tel. (+381) 11 328 Kalemegdanska Terasa B-1, Belgrade Fortress, tel.
59 06, A small restaurant with an enjoyable atmosphere, (+381) 11 328 30 11, www.kalemegdanskaterasa.
famous for its meat specialties and uniquely decorated com. The only restaurant situated within the Belgrade
desserts. Its ambiance, food and service make it a favourite Fortress, famous for its terrace and breathtaking view of
for foreigners in Belgrade. Rakija is served in measures which the Danube. It has a very pleasing ambiance, excellent
are smaller than is normally the custom. 4Open 10:00 - cuisine and a wide selection of wines. Reservations
24:00, Closed Sun. €€. PBRASE are recommended, as the place is often rented out for
banquets and cocktail parties.4Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€.
Dišina Koliba Andre Nikolića 2V, tel. (+381) 11 369 PTBAEL
17 00. Restaurant on the edge of the Topčider forest.
Discover interesting international meals prepared by the new Klub književnika C-2, Francuska 7, tel. (+381)
chef. National meals (old recipes for kebabs and cakes and 11 262 79 31. One of the oldest restaurants in the city
cookies) and barbecues are reliable standards here, but we centre, the building being old about 150 years. Guests like
recommend beefsteak with five different sauces. A variety Alberto Moravia, Jean-Paul Sartre, Richard Burton, Ivo Andrić
of wines and spirits is also offered. 4Open 11:00 – 23:00, once made it a meeting point of writers and artists(you
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. APBSG needed a membership card to enter!). Restaurant had been
redecorated, but has retained the spirit of the old days. It also
has a large summer garden.4Open 12:00 – 01:00, Closed
Sun. €€€. PBASR

Little Bay C-2, Dositejeva 9a, tel. (+381) 11 328


89 95, www.little-bay.co.uk. An unusual interior this,
reminiscent of an opera setting with the waiters dressed
in 18th century costumes. Although the menu is sparse,
each carefully-designed dish is exquisitely prepared. The
restaurant has both traditional tables and isolated booths
named after the world’s greatest composers. During the day
you can enjoy famous opera tunes and in the evenings live
performances of other popular classics. And the icing on the

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


34 Restaurants
cake? The food in this restaurant is among the cheapest in
town! 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. €. PRAEGSB Price Guide
(Based on a good meal without wine)
Loža C-2, Obilićev venac 27, tel. (+381) 11 262 86 Expensive €€€ (More than €15 per person)
85. A well-hidden restaurant on the first storey of an old Mid-range €€ (€8-15 per person)
building on Obilićev venac Street. Upon entering the building, Cheap € (Less than €8 per person)
you will find a wine store and a miniature lift that will take
you up to the next level. The elegant interior with crystal
chandeliers is divided into a restaurant section and a
charming café section. This restaurant is located some way
from the main street, so there is invariably a table always
available, meaning there’s no need to reserve in advance.
The food here is first-rate and recommendations from the
waiters should be taken seriously since they have inside
information about the freshest options available. 4Open
12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PA

Madera C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. (+381)


11 323 13 32, www.maderarestoran.com. A renowned
Belgrade restaurant with an elegant interior and beautiful
terrace located on the periphery of Tašmajdan Park. The
food is excellent and apart from the national dishes on
the menu the Italian chef has also made sure to include
some Italian meals and desserts.4Open 10:00 - 01:00.
€€. PTBAEL

Metropolitan Grill B-2, Milentija Popovića 5 (Hotel


Hyatt), tel. (+381) 11 301 11 40. Although it's a hotel
restaurant, it is worth a visit as it offers a new a la carte menu
introducing light and seasonal dishes created by the Hyatt
culinary team and is a perfect venue for lunch in a relaxed
atmosphere. The kitchen serves a wide selection of Serbian
and international cuisine, and there's a popular Sunday
brunch between noon and 17:00. It also often features
guest chef programs, presenting cuisines and dishes
from around the world, including Asia, the Mediterranean,
the Middle East and Europe. 4Open 06:30 - 23:30. €€€.
PAELUSRG

Mythologia C-3, Birčaninova 42, tel. (+381) 11


265 89 11, www.restoranmithologia.com. An elegant
restaurant with a spacious, open terrace, this place is Principal - Diners Club B-2, Ušće bb, tel. (+381) 11
favourite with people working for nearby embassies and 214 04 67. A floating restaurant with an unforgettable view
offices. The menu is an eclectic mixture of international of old town Belgrade, regardless of whether you are seated
dishes(from cappuccino shrimps to venison fillet in inside or on the terrace just above the Sava River, the kind
berry-shaped forest fruit) and some traditional Serbian waiters will make sure you spend a perfect afternoon by
specialities. The restaurant boasts a large wine cellar with the water. The menu is extensive with a variety of superbly-
over 400 wines from all over the world and if you find it prepared fish and meat dishes but sometimes they can go a
difficult to make your choice, there is a sommelier on hand little overboard with the olive oil. The interior is a bit shabby
to help out.4Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PBAS and the toilet tiny but the restaurant is still considered one
of the most beautiful in the city. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€.
Opera C-2, Nušićeva 8, tel. (+381) 11 323 87 67. APBGE
A charming little restaurant, ideal both for short business
lunches and romantic occasions. The classic style furniture Ruski car C-2; Obilićev venac 29, tel. (+381) 11 263
with its intricate designs borders on kitsch, but it is 58 37. Established in 1830 in the very heart of the city at
nevertheless comfortable to sit on. The food and wine menu the corner of Knez Mihailova Street and Obilićev Venac, this
is so diverse that everyone can find something to their liking. is one of Belgrade's most popular meeting places. Recently
The waiters are hospitable, but at times overly insistent with redecorated, with a large but always crowded summer
their food recommendations. 4Open 11:00 - 22:30, Sat terrace, Ruski Car has continued to be one of the symbols
12:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. €€. PTUBAS of the city. Cakes and sweets match the traditionally good
coffee, but dont forget the Russian and international cuisine
Pogođena patka (The Shot Duck) C-2, Đure Daničića it has on offer.4Open 07:00 – 24:00. €€€. APBS
13, (+381) 11 334 04 60, www.pogodjenapatka.com.
A very nice restaurant in the basement of an old house where Whatever @ The Corner C-3, Beogradska 37,
Queen Draga Mašin lived before she got married. It is close tel. (+381) 11 323 64 70, www.nacosku.com. An
enough to the city centre for an enjoyable stroll. The clientele exquisite restaurant, known not only for its excellent food,
varies - from business people to couples. Apart from the but also for its first-rate service and enjoyable ambiance.
duck specialties, they offer a number of meat and fish dishes A place where great attention is paid to details, and where
as well as excellent desserts. 4Open 10:00 - 23:00, Closed customer satisfaction is the number one priority. Though
Sun. €€. PAGBGSR the menu is somewhat sparse, it features carefully selected

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants 35

Mediterranean specialties. This restaurant is ideal both for dining. It has become a favourite all occasion destination
large groups and romantic couples, and the best tables are in Belgrade and a place where one can eat arguably the
those by the window. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12.00 - best carpaccio in town. 4Open 09:00-01:00, Sat, Sun
17.00. €€. PATSRG 12:00-01:00. €€. PAS

Žabar A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. (+381) 11 319 Ipanema C-1, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel. (+381) 11
12 26, www.zabar.co.rs. This is one of the most famous 328 30 69. Light Mediterranean cuisine abundant in basil
restaurants in Belgrade and is situated on a raft on the and olive oil is what this establishment offers. The menu
Danube river quay. It is ideal both for couples and large includes pastas, meat dishes, a variety of salads and fresh
crowds and guests have the option of isolating themselves vegetables and they are also famous for their excellent
in booths. The quality of the food and high prices attract cakes and good music which completes the experience. The
numerous Serbian celebrities. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. waiters are friendly but can be a little slow with the orders
PALG when the garden area is full. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat,Sun
09:00 - 02:00. €€. PBASGR

Italian Ottimo C-2, Studentski trg 10, tel. (+381) 11 328 64


Casa Nova C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 42 A, tel. (+381) 54. Situated next to Studenstki Park. A cosy and romantic
11 303 68 67. A cosy little duplex restaurant, particularly little restaurant with a multitude of interesting decorations
popular among foreigners. The tall windows allow you to on the walls and one of the most inventive open terrace
observe passers-by even when seated in the upper section. solutions in town. The menu features a large selection of
The service is excellent and there is a good selection of Italian specialties, including excellent tiramisu that is freshly
Italian wines on offer. The specialty of the house is the prepared on the premises. The waiters are efficient and
Sicilian Wheel - a spicy meat dish that might seem a bit friendly and you can safely rely on their recommendations
intimidating at first, but is actually just the right size for 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBASG
one reasonably hungry customer. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00.
€€. PBRAS Panta rei C-1, Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. (+381) 11
303 66 98, www.pantarei.co.rs. A recently-renovated
Košava Trattoria C-1, Kralja Petra 36, tel. (+381) restaurant with a contemporary interior. The large windows
11 262 73 44, www.trattoriakosava.com. Established provide stunning views of the Danube and Zemun. However,
in 1982, the Košava Trattoria retains a friendly traditional you’re in for an unpleasant surprise if you try and sit at one
feel of an original Italian trattoria in the very heart of of the tables by the window, because the waiter will most
the city. With its menu of more than 100 mostly Italian certainly explain to you that it is reserved for Godot and
and Serbian recipes and attentive waitng staff, Košava his crowd (i.e., the ones that never turn up). Nevertheless,
combines the 'mamas kitchen' concept with world class the tables are arranged in such a way that you will enjoy a
beautiful view regardless of where you sit. There are some
interesting items on the menu, though while some of the
dishes are truly excellent, others are average. 4Open
09:00 - 24:00. €€. ABPGS6

Pietro dell Oro D-3, Trnska 2, tel. (+381) 11 344


77 00, www.pietrodelloro.com. This restaurant is
staffed with probably the best waiters in town. A truly
enjoyable setting, regardless of whether you’re sitting in
the upper level or in the attractive, vapour-cooled garden.
The food is superbly prepared by an Italian chef but the
menu could use a little rejuvenation every once in a while.
Be sure to try the panacotta. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€.
PTUBAESGR

Japanese
Ikki Sushi Bar C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel.
(+381) 11 218 41 83, www.ikkibar.com. Here you
can try traditional Japanese dishes, green tea and sake.
The sushi arrangement is an art form and the chef in this
restaurant is a true master of the art. Do not be discouraged
by the small, empty area and bar visible from the street - the
restaurant is on the upper level. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€.
PUBASG

Lebanese
Beirut Café C-1/2 , Simina 5, (+381) 11 263
0135. Opened last September by a Swedish Lebanese
expat, like the owner this Arabic eatery is a peculiar mix
of East and West. The single large dining area is open and
airy with several nice touches of authentic décor, such
as Lebanese-style chandeliers and couches, as well as
some cool abstract art, and in the warmer months a large
interior courtyard is opened. However, much of the food is

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


36 Restaurants
unfortunately Lebanese in name only, or at least we've never Seafood
come across fattoush with yellow peppers or soujuk with Bevanda D-3, Požarevačka 51, tel. (+381) 11 244 74
mushrooms before - not to mention tortillas masquerading 46. Fresh, non-frozen salt-water fish and seafood prepared
as Arabic flat bread.4Open 09:00 – 24:00. €€ APB in the Dalmatian style. A cosy atmosphere and excellent
service. If you are having a romantic dinner with enough
Byblos C-3, Nebojšina 6, (+381) 11 24 41 938. An money to spend, be sure to try their combined specialty dish,
elegant restaurant with bright colours, good lighting and which they will serve on two different plates: salty anchovies
pictures of Beirut on the walls. The influences of eastern and in combination with lozova rakija (grape brandy), cold
Mediterranean cuisine are noticeable, but it’s the mezze that cuttlefish and octopus salad, black and white risotto, mixed
makes Lebanese cuisine special. Hot or cold, it is served in shellfish buzara (shellfish in a special sauce). For the main
small dishes and choosing what to eat is not so easy, but you course you should opt for a fresh fish, such as the grouper
can always go for humus, falafel, Lebanese bread or baklava or St. Pierre. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PBA
with pistachios and mahalabi (cream with pistachios and
ouzo). 4Open 12:00 – 24:00. €€€. APBS Gušti mora A-3, Radnička 27, tel. (+381) 11 355 12
68. Though Belgrade is far from the seaside, Belgraders
love sea food and have very high standards when it comes
Mexican to preparing it. Here you can try fresh saltwater fish, lobster
Burito bar D-2, Kraljice Marije 3, tel. (+381) 11 337 and shellfish prepared in the same style as in the Bay of
65 46. A snug, dimly-lit restaurant with an interior made Kotor in Montenegro. The waiters are kind and obliging. Even
entirely out of wood. The waiters will patiently explain the though the restaurant is located in a rather unattractive part
specifics of all the Mexican specialties on offer. As opposed of the city - just next door to a tire repair shop, the good food
to the original dishes in Mexico, the food here is tolerably it offers makes it a very popular place especially among
spicy and won’t set your lips on fire. The portions are large, celebrities. Avoid the garden - it’s much nicer inside. 4Open
and the waiters will let you combine various dishes. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. APBGRS
09:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00 €€. PTA
Mag Club A-1, Kej oslobođenja 2c, tel. (+381) 11
Nachos C-1 Strahinjica Bana 66a, (+381) 11 262 34 269 83 98. If you’re struck by a craving for seafood while
33, www.nachos.rs. Located in Belgrade’s celebrated strolling along the bank of the Danube in Zemun, this nice-
‘Silicone Valley’ district, where all the beautiful people come looking white boat is just the place for you. They have an
to play at night during the weekend, Nachos has a modest extensive menu and are particularly famous for their cart
interior evoking its cuisine’s Central American origin and which displays an assortment of salads and sea food. The
also has cow hide adorning one of the walls, just to remind best seats are on one of the two open deck areas. The two
you what you might be eating. You have to go upstairs to large rooms in the boat’s interior are perfect for large groups
eat, downstairs to drink and dance. The Mexican food is but not for a romantic dinner for two. The service is below
superb and can be ordered ultra spicy or not, just as you the standard expected for this type of restaurant. 4Open
like it. The grilled pork ribs are one of the menu’s best 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. APBGS
features and are served with homemade barbeque sauce
(which has whiskey in it) and is served with fried potatoes. Paša A-1, Kej oslobođenja 7, tel. (+381) 11 261 21
They only cost 750 dinars to boot. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. 19. A floating, river restaurant specialising in freshwater
€. PBAETRS fish caught in the Danube. It has both an enclosed section
and an open terrace above the water – which also happens
to be a popular resting place for river gulls. The interior is
modest, the food served in a straightforward manner and
Pizzerias the recipes simple but perfectly wholesome. This is one of
Guli C-2, Skadarska 13, tel. (+381) 11 3237 204, the few restaurants in Belgrade where you will get paper
www.guli.rs. Situated in the middle of bohemian napkins instead of the usual cloth ones. Be sure to try the
Skadarlija area with its characteristic brick-wood-dim light fish chowder and the grilled perch. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00.
ambience. Though the interior of this restaurant/pizzeria €€. PTBA
appears to be modern, the pizzas are still served in a
traditional way from the wood-fired brick oven. Besides Stara koliba B-1, Ušće bb, tel. (+381) 11 311 74
pizza you can enjoy different types of pastas, meat and fish. 44. Popular with diplomats and politicians, this floating
The restaurant has a beautiful terrace which is extremely restaurant made of wood and reeds is situated in the most
pleasant in summertime. 4Open 12.00 – 00.00 €€. beautiful spot in town, almost on the river mouth itself. If
PBRAS you don't have a reservation, the chances of getting a
table on the terrace with the stunning view are next to
Pomodoro C-2, Hilandarska 32, tel. (+381) 11 334 28 none. Nevertheless, there is also charm in sitting at the
97. Here you can treat yourself to probably the best pizzas
in town prepared in a wood-burning stove, of course. There
is also an unassuming and airy interior, a short wine list Symbol key
containing just a few exquisite wines and a large selection
of non-conventional pizza combinations. The menu also P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
features photographs of each dish.4Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00 €€. PTUBRASG E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
Pizza Hut C-2, Makedonska 44, tel. (+381) 11 322
13 12. American-style pizzas for those who prefer that G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
sort of experience. The menu also includes salads, pasta R Internet B Terrace
and various appetisers, as well as daily specials at reduced
prices. The waiters are quick and friendly. 4Open 09:00 - 6 Animal friendly
23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTBA

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants 37

bar surrounding the cooking area, as you can watch the


cooks prepare meat and fish dishes. This restaurant’s Kafana
biggest downside is the poor service. Be prepared to
wait for a long time for the waiter even to approach you A kafana (bistro) is an authentic Belgrade restaurant.
if you’re not a regular customer. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. The first ever kafana in Belgrade (and Europe) was
€€€. APBE opened by the Turks at the end of the 16th century,
in the Dorćol area of the city. The kafana differs from
Taverna Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. (+381) 11 354 a standard restaurant in the following ways: ordering
22 37. This Banovo Brdo restaurant has an inviting food is not obligatory - you can come for only a drink,
atmosphere and is reminiscent of a family house with a no scornful looks will be thrown your way if you dip your
garden. The summer ambiance features candle-lit dinners bread in the grilled meat juice or rest your elbows on the
in the garden under grape-vines, while a crackling fire is table, loud laughter and emotional outbursts are normal
sure to warm your spirits during the winter. All the dishes occurrences, the guests address the waiters by their
are excellent. You should try the salmon in white sauce or first names, the food is good but never exceptional and
the sea perch prepared king-style and make sure you don’t the tables are often pushed together for the purposes
skip the fantastic tiramisu. The best transport solution is of socialising... The old rule says that inns are places
to take a taxi, as the restaurant is rather difficult to find. where business is done, domestic and world politics
4Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PBASLR discussed, (false) information exchanged and sadness
cured. So, although the portions are large, much more
than meal consumption time is spent in the inns. Tra-
Serbian ditional kafanas are losing ground to industrial catering
Čubura C-3, Mačvanska 1, tel. (+381) 11 244 07 facilities and gradually declining in number.
56. Located in a small group of shops near the Čuburski
park, also known as Peyton Place, this restaurant makes
the best grilled meats and unquestionably the best Jevrem C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 36, tel. (+381)
ćevapčići (grilled minced-meat fingers) in town. It is just 11 328 47 46, www.restoran-jevrem.com. Situated
the place for those who prefer their meat without flavour in the city centre, in a house built at the beginning of
enhancers or sauces spoiling its taste. The interior is the last century this restaurant is known for its beautiful
rather modest and it is advised that the toilet be used terrace and is located well away from city’s noise. Here
only in emergency situations. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00. €. you will find various Serbian dishes and although they
PTBA may not be prepared in the most faithful way, you will
have the opportunity to try certain meals that are almost
Dačo Patrisa Lumumbe 49, tel. (+381) 11 278 24 impossible to find elsewhere, such as pihtije (jellied pork
22. A restaurant that reliably depicts the atmosphere of a or duck) or cicvara (a dish made of corn flour, eggs, butter
real Serbian village, with checked tablecloths, mismatched and cheese). The waiters occasionally slip-up by bringing
cutlery and cats and hens roaming around the tables in the the main course before the guests have finished with
garden. You should try the village appetiser, the svadbarski their appetisers. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €€.
kupus (Wedding Cabbage) and the house wine. Since the PBAE
restaurant - situated in a remote part of town - is extremely
popular, reservations are recommended. 4Open 12:00 -
24:00, Closed Mon. €€. PTBAS

Dva Bela Goluba C-2, Bulevar Despota Stefana


3, (+381) 11 323 9079. One of several traditional
Serbian restaurants on the sloping cobbled pedestrian
area Skandarlija, Two White Pigeons is arguably the most
popular with locals. With only large six-person tables in the
main dining area, be prepared to share if you're by yourself
or just a couple, and when ordering keep in mind that the
portions tend to be absurdly large. Also be aware that if
you're asked your nationality it's so the server can go fetch
the corresponding miniature flag and plant it in the wooden
block at the end of the table - so if you're ashamed of your
country, or just don't like the flag, consider lying. 4Open
11:00 - 24:00 €€. PAB

Dva Jelena C-2, Skadarska 32, (+381) 11 232


4885, info@dvajelena.rs, www.dvajelena.rs One
of the best known and longest running restaurants in
the city, the Two Deer kafana is one of the symbols of
Belgrade and more or less a must-see destination for
visitors. Originally opened as a bakery in 1832, it was
sold by the original owners some 35 years later and
changed into a restaurant, which immediately began
attracting a mixed bohemian crowd. Besides various
expansions, little has changed in the time since, and a
full array of hearty traditional Serbian dishes are served
in what could easily be mistaken for a hunter's lodge,
often accompanied by live music. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00
€€. PABE

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


38 Restaurants
Price Guide Local Specialties
(Based on a good meal without wine)
Expensive €€€ (More than €15 per person) In Serbia, the salad is eaten with the main course.
Mid-range €€ (€8-15 per person) Thanks to greenhouses and imports, one can have
Cheap € (Less than €8 per person) tomato or lettuce throughout the year. However, old
customs still linger and the most popular winter salads
include: roast paprika (pečena paprika), ajvar, sauerkraut
Manjež C-3, Svetozara Markovića 49, tel. (+381) and pickles (turšija). Roast paprika is made of large
11 362 11 11. One of the few restaurants in Belgrade peppers, grilled over coals or on a cooker, peeled and
that has retained the character of an authentic city bistro seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt and finely chopped garlic.
and it offers skillfully-prepared Serbian specialties which Ajvar is a savoury local relish made of red peppers and
are difficult to find elsewhere. It has a highly enjoyable aubergines, roasted, peeled and chopped or minced and
atmosphere and a wide diversity of guests - from lawyers sautéed with oil seasonings and garlic. The sauerkraut is
rummaging through their files while sipping a cognac to prepared by tightly packing cabbage heads, their roots
bubbly housewives meeting over coffee to discuss burning removed, into a plastic barrel and filling the barrel with
global issues. The atmosphere is further enhanced by salted water. The fermented cabbage from the barrel
traditional romantic tunes softly playing in the background. is used to prepare local specialties such as sarma
The waiters will gladly put a few tables together for larger (cabbage rolls), podvarak (cabbage baked in the oven
groups. 4Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBASER with pork), or is eaten as a salad, chopped and seasoned
with dried and ground hot peppers. The sour cabbage
Opušteno (Laid Back) A-3, Ada Ciganlija, tel. juice, brimming with vitamin C, is called rasol and is the
(+381) 11 357 22 58, www.adasafari.co.rs. In the local cure for hangovers. Pickles - pickled cucumbers,
midst of Ada Ciganlija Island is a small lake surrounded by cauliflower, carrots, peppers and green tomato make
centennial trees and stocked with very fine specimens of great appetizers, as does sauerkraut, particularly when
carp. Fishermen are only allowed to take a photo with their served with straight rakija (brandy) or kuvana rakija
trophy before they return it to the water. The wooden posts (mulled brandy).
above the lake support the foundation of a restaurant,
which is ideal for relaxing over a bowl of fish chowder or
plate of roast meat, accompanied by cold house wine from terrace. The food is decent and the portions large. The
the Rajac Mountain. The only sound you will hear is bird waiters are friendly but few in number, so if the restaurant
song. There are benches set up on the shore for those is jam-packed, consistent efforts to get their attention
who like to play cards over fried picarel fish and beer and might end in a real mood-spoiler. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00.
children can find entertainment in a small enclosure with €€. PBAE
goats and ducks. The toilet, located in a separate house
on the shore and one of the cleanest in the city, bears the Srpska kafana C-2, Svetogorska 25, tel. (+381) 11
name ‘Even More Laid Back’. 4Open 12:00 - 21:00. €. 324 71 97. A legendary Belgrade restaurant where back
UBGPAL in the old days, live Gypsy music used to entertain the
crowd deep into the night. There is no longer live music,
Proleće C-2, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. (+381) 11 and nowadays the ambiance is more reminiscent of a
263 54 36. A restaurant known for its variety of ‘home- village setting than of a town. The cuisine features national
cooked’ meals and grilled meats. In spite of the unseemly specialties (both home-cooked and grilled) at fairly low
interior (which the regulars have become quite fond of), prices. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €. APG
discoloured cutlery and the occasional patched tablecloth,
Belgraders feel very much at home here. This spot attracts Stara carinarnica Kej oslobođenja 31, tel. (+381)
a wide variety of customers - young couples in love, old 11 261 69 30. It is situated in a 1723 building which used
folks reading the paper, businessmen in suits, penniless to be an Austro-Hungarian customs house. The interior is
students sharing a portion - all united by their mutual dominated by brick domes and photographs of old-town
craving for a warm, ‘home-cooked’ meal. No music.4Open Zemun. The restaurant is renowned for its variety of grilled
08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €. PBA meat and home-cooked dishes. On Tuesdays and Fridays,
Skala - one of the best orchestras in town - performs
Rubin Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. (+381) 11 351 21 here, and such particular nights tend to be very loud and
23. A sign on the street indicates where to turn for this jovial, with musicians roaming from table to table, so you
restaurant, which is well-hidden in the Košutnjak Forest. can order a song if you wish.4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€.
A view of the city and the Avala Mountain extends from APBEG
the gorgeous terrace. They have excellent grilled meat
and Czech beer. It is most crowded at the weekends Stara Hercegovina D-2, Carigradska 36, tel. (+381)
during lunchtime, so if you wish to sit on the terrace it is 11 324 58 56. An authentic Belgrade ale-house, where
best to make a reservation. It’s a real treat to take a walk you can enjoy draught beer, smoked ribs off the grill,
after the meal in the surrounding area, where the silence and knuckle-of-pork covered in sour cabbage leaves
is broken only by singing birds. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. and served with horseradish. It’s difficult to find a table
APBGLR during lunchtime and since the poor ventilation will leave
you smelling like your dinner even after you have left, this
Salaš Sinđelićeva 34, tel. (+381) 11 219 03 24. restaurant is not exactly the best choice for a meal before
A wonderful duplex restaurant in an old family house in the theatre.4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. €.
Gardoš. The interior is decorated in bright colours and PBARS
floral patterns typifying houses in the province of Vojvodina.
The upper level has a breathtaking view of the Danube, Tabor Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. (+381)
stretching over the roofs of Gardoš and for an even more 11 241 24 64, www.restorantabor.com. A famous
rewarding experience try getting a table on the miniature restaurant with Serbian specialties, and a true favourite

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants 39

them. The place is already very popular, so check ahead.


4Open: 12:00 - 02:30. €€. PBARLR

Milagro Kej Oslobodjenja 55, tel. (+381) 11 316


01 60, www.milagrosq.rs. Located in Zemun, on the
bank of the Danube, in a pleasing ambience of a new, airy
two-storied house with lots of windows. Dark wood, stone,
leather and wrought iron create an elegant décor. The
restaurant is divided in several sections and everyone will
find a spot to their liking. There is also a terrace on the first
floor with a great view of the Danube. You can try paella
with Belgraders. Be sure to try the spicy potatoes, the and tortilla made to original recipes as the restaurant is
čačanski uštipci (Čačak-style minced meat) and quince owned by a former FC Barcelona football player. The menu
rakija. Guests also have the option of preparing their own also features chuletón - T-bone steak served on a hot plate
meat on a volcanic rock. You should probably avoid dishes with a burner so you can cook it to your preference. 4Open
that don’t fit the ambiance, such as gnocchi or spaghetti. 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. TARBES
Their musicians are among the best in town and are also
surprisingly unobtrusive.4Open 10:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun.
€€. PTBAEL Fast food
Zlatnik Slavonska 26, tel. (+381) 11 316 62 56. This Čobanov odmor D-3, Vojvode Šupljikca 34, tel.
is both a Serbian cuisine restaurant and a fish restaurant, (+381) 11 245 09 47, www.cobanovodmor.com.
located in the Zlatnik Hotel in Zemun. Its peaceful setting - Traditional Serbian fast food in folklore-style kiosks.
far from the racket of the city - makes it ideal for important They deliver all over town. 4Open 24 hrs. Also at Bulevar
business lunches. The service is exceptional, the noodles Mihajla Pupina 141, tel. 213 45 77. €. S
in the soup are homemade, and their turkey with mlinci
(type of pasta) is by far the best in town. 4Open 06:30 - Ipanema C-1, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel. 328 30 69.
24:00. €€. PTBALRS Superbly prepared Italian take-out: sandwiches, pasta,
profiteroles, tiramisu. 4Open 08:00 - 17:00. €. S
Zornića kuća (The Zornić family house , Živorada
Jankovića 13 (Baćevac village, Barajevo), tel. (+381) Loki C-1, Corner of Kralja Petra and Gospodar
11 254 02 54, www.zornicakuca.rs. When you feel Jovanova St. An extremely popular fast-food joint for
you have had enough of the hubbub and the smog of the grilled-meat lovers. People often end up eating here after
city, when you wish to indulge in traditional dishes made a night in the town. 4Open 24 hrs. €. S
of organically grown produce and then succumb freely to
postprandial somnolence, a trip to Zornića Kuća will set McDonald’s A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 85a, tel.
things right. Half an hour ride from the centre of the city, (+381) 11 310 73 78. Drive-in. 4 Open 08:00 -
located some 5km after the exit from the Ibarska motorway 24:00. Also at Deligradska 2, tel. 265 64 91. Terazije
in the direction of Baćevac village, the farm spreads out 27, tel. 323 52 97. €. PTUBASL
over three hectares and features a restaurant, souvenir
shop, children’s playground, as well as stables with horses, Pekara Toma C-2, Kolarčeva 6-8, tel. 263 63 43,
cows, sheep and goats. You can enjoy delicious food, over www.tomacentar.co.rs. This bakery offers sandwiches,
30 kinds of rakija and wine, the chirrup of the birds, and salads, pizzas, cakes, burek (pie made with phyllo dough)
stories about the old tools and items used in the village and all kinds of traditional Serbian pastry. 4Open 24
once upon a time. Reservations required on weekends. hrs. €. PAS
4Open 11:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00, Closed Mon.
€€. P TARBSL 6. Peking C-2, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 218 19 31, www.
peking.co.rs. Belgrade’s first ever Chinese restaurant has
adapted some simple yet delicious Chinese recipes for those
Spanish who prefer to eat on the go or order takeaway food. 4Open
10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00-23:00. €€. AS
Cantina de Frida B-2 Karađorđeva 2-4, Beton hala,
tel. (+381) 11 218 11 20,Info@cntinadefrida.com,
www.cantinadefride.com. New bar-restaurant located on Sandwich King C-2, Savska Trg 1, +381 66 20
20 20, sandwichking@gmail.com Founded in Eastern
the Sava pier. The interior decoration unifies lively colours
Canada in 1996, this fast growing chain has already managed
and details associated with Mexico and the life of the famous
to bring its fresh-made sandwich franchise to Serbia. Located
artist, Frida Kahlo. The lively colours repeat themselves opposite the central train station and open around the clock,
on the plates, too. The core offering on the menu is tapas: it's definitely a more appealing option than most of the
hot or cold and based on meat or sea food. If you decide to other eateries in the area. We also give them high marks
share your meal with your companion, the restaurant also for sense of humour, with South Park characters Terrance
offers large tapas. The experienced waiters are there to help and Phillip representing the lone Canadian sandwich on the
you make the right choice of meal and sauce, allowing you internationally themed (and English language) menu. 4Open
to decide exactly how spicy you want your dish to be. Don’t 00:00-24:00 € PALS
miss Diego’s pancakes, made just like Frida used to cook

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


40 CAFÉS
Grand pleasure C-2, Vasina 3, tel. (+381) 11 262 74
Symbol key 24. A new chain of cafés with a wide variety of take-away
coffees. Those wishing to have their coffee on the premises
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted of the café can enjoy its delightful ambiance, providing there’s
E Live music S Take away a table available. It’s a good place to start the day, as they
also offer sandwiches, salads, fruit smoothies and freshly-
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled squeezed orange juice. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PBRASG
R Internet B Terrace Greenet C-2, Nušićeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 323 84
6 Animal friendly 74, www.greenet.co.rs. A snug little café with the most
extensive choice of coffee in town. The specialty of the
house is the mocha. Take-away coffee is also served in heat-
Amsterdam A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. (+381) 11 conserving cups and you can also purchase various blends
319 49 71, The most exquisite terrace on the river, famous of ground coffee to prepare at home. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00,
for attracting the city’s most beautiful women. The restaurant Fri, Sat 08:00 - 00:30. PBASR
offers light meals and cakes, though you should avoid eating
here unless you are extremely hungry, as the prices are known Kandahar C-1, Strahinjića Bana 48, tel. (+381) 11
to exceed the quality of the food. The best tables can usually 291 03 11. A café named after the city in Afghanistan.
be found vacant because they are reserved for friends of the The interior is decorated in the Oriental style and filled with
establishment that hardly ever stop by. 4Open 10:00 - 04:00. colourful pillows and the exterior features an unusual open
PBAEL terrace with low tables and canopies. With a large selection
of tea blends and alcoholic beverages, this is one of the few
Amphora A-1, B ul eva r M iha jla Pup i n a b b, te l. spots in town where you can try real Turkish coffee and Yeni
(+381) 11 269 97 89. A spacious and stylish floating Raki. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. PBA
café/restaurant with a strained atmosphere due to the
number of people who go there just to be seen. The Lime Café C-2, Obilićev Venac 1 , Located on a side street
section overlooking the river is actually the dining area just off of Republic Square, this trendy new coffeehouse offers
and the food is pretty decent. You can also sit around a pleasant enough atmosphere to go with your daily caffeine
the fireplace one of the comfortable sofas with a cup fix. The interior is modern and stretches across three different
of coffee or cocktail in hand and watch the boats go by. levels, with additional seating in the garden outside. There are
It’s definitely one of the nicest floating restaurants in also free laptops to go along with the free Wi-Fi, and several
Belgrade. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. PB A L large LCD screens are usually tuned into some sporting event
or other. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. PBASR
Bistro Pastis C-1, Strahinjića Bana 52b, tel. (+381) 11
328 81 88, www.elixir.rs. One of the most popular cafes in Mama’s Biscuit House C-1, Strahinjića Bana 72a,
‘Silicone Valley’. Many celebrities who live nearby like to come tel. (+381) 11 328 38 05, www.mammashouse.co.rs.
here, and the small barrels used for tables in the outdoor Offers a wide variety of cakes and other sweet treats. Their
section are favourite places for posing next to for the young, terrace is a favourite spot for gazing at girls strolling down
besuited executives who flock to the cafe as well. 4Open the street commonly known (for obvious reasons) as 'Silicone
09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10.00 – 01.00. BGRTA Valley'. As with most of the cafés in this part of town, Mamma's
doubles as a trendy bar once the sun goes down.4Open
Ex M C-2, Palmotićeva 27, tel. (+381) 11 323 33 82. 09:00 - 01:00. PTBA
The deep shade of the linden tree in a tiny park hides one of the
most popular cafes in the city centre. It is a favourite spot for Sweet cafe C-2, Zadarska 2, tel. (+381) 11 303 64 61.
those who work in advertising agencies, cultural facilities, and A great place for a chat with your friends and an excellent spot
all others who have the freedom to extend their lunch break to take a break after a tour round Kosančićev venac. Coffee
and can afford to wait for the waiter to bring their order. If you enthusiasts will be pleased with the café menu - offering 40
have enough time on your hands, you can admire the ability different kinds of caffeine fix. The café is on three levels,
of Belgraders to prolong the act of drinking an espresso into the lowest overlookng a busy crossroads, and the highest
a half-hour event. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00. PB being the smallest and cosiest. 4Open 08:00 - 02:00. A
BGR6
Favela C-1, Miročka 3, tel. (+381) 11 324 93 56. A
very popular café, very close to the so called Silicon Valley
(Strahinjića bana Street), which is famous for the homemade
wine that is available exclusively in the establishment.
Carefully chosen music, a quiet location, a green garden-
terrace in Belgrade city centre with a touch of Brazilian class
are a real treat.4Open: 09:00 - 23:00. RB

Galerija Čunarska 1, tel. (+381) 11 261 20 96. The


most romantic café in town, situated in Gardoš - Zemun’s
popular promenade - near the Danube quay. If a particular
woman has not yet fallen under your charms, this place
is sure to sweep her off her feet. The music played in
the background is jazz and the walls are bedecked with
up-for-sale paintings by various up-and-coming artists.
They also serve food, which you can enjoy on the beautiful
open terrace or, on rainy days, in the wine cellar. 4Open
10:00 - 23:00. B A Cafe-restaurant Snežana in Knez Mihjajlova Street

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife 41

Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking Cruise Sava Quay (block 70), tel. (+381) 11 215
75 10, www.cruise.rs. A floating cocktail bar on the
R Internet B Terrace Sava. During the day, it’s a casual spot beside the river
6 Animal friendly for drinks and decent food prepared on the premises,
and with soft music in the background. In the evenings,
it turns into a loud place bursting with life, with cocktails
Belgrade is famous for its exciting nightlife. Wherever you go, prepared by one of the best barmen in town. It’s pretty
you’ll be greeted by a positive vibe that will make you feel at much impossible to order a cocktail here which the
home, as if among friends. People go out on all nights of the waiters haven’t heard of. The staff are friendly and greet
week and they do so spontaneously - at any given time and costumers with broad smiles on their faces. 4Open 11:00
regardless of how much work they have the following day. - 01:00. PTBR A SG
The most exciting and busiest nights out on the town are not
dictated by the day of the week but by circumstances and Cvijećara D-1 Vojvode Dobrnjca 34, (+381) 63 57
events. Floating river clubs are a special feature of the city’s 71 29. A very interesting spot. Ideal for those who like
nightlife. They vary in size, customer capacity and type of music to socialize, but a bad choice for city posers. The wood
played. As they are far from residential zones, the party can last and brick interior is abundantly decorated with cheerful
till dawn, especially if the guests are in good spirits. flower arrangements which you can not escape even in the
toilets. The guests have a wide variety of beer to chose
from, a jukebox, pin-ball machine, table football and darts.
Bars & Pubs 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. P6B
Amarone Wine Bar C-2, Gospodar Jovanova 56,
tel.+381 60 504 04 55. An immensely popular wine bar Marshall Pub D-1 Ćirila i Metodija 2, (+381) 11 386
located in old town, there's a decent - if not overwhelming 24 48. The perfect place for those who like English pubs.
- selection of wines from around the world, from European The primarily wooden interior features a display of around
mainstays Italy, France and Spain, to up-and-coming new world fifty beer mugs from all over the globe. Apart from the good
countries like the US, Chile and Australia. The low wood tables choice of draught and bottled beer, they offer snacks -
and chairs aren't the most comfortable in the world but do add pizzas, salads, sandwiches... During the day most of the
nicely to the overall air of rustic ambiance. It's a good idea to visitors are students from near-by university... 4Open
make reservations at the weekends, when DJs spin increasingly 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00-01:00 . P A BE
up-tempo beats from atop a couple of old wine barrels. 4Open
09:00 - 02:00. PAER Mercedes bar C-2, Dalmatinska 3, tel. (+381) 11 324
34 03. Everything in this café, which used to be a Mercedes
AUR - Klub svetskih putnika C-2, Bulevar Despota
Stefana 7/1, tel. (+381) 11 324 23 03, www.aur-usp.
rs. An unusual venue, well hidden in the cellar of a residential
building. The diversely decorated rooms and a cat lounging
around on the heater make the atmosphere here very cosy.
You can also skim through their collection of books on exotic,
far-away lands, or have a sandwich during the day. This venue
also hosts private parties in the evenings. 4Open 11:00 -
24:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PEAR6

Bizzare C-2 Gospodar Jevremova. A small café which is


favourite for those who live close by, Bizzare is an ideal place
to go for chatting over a cup of coffee during the daytime, or for
cocktails to the beat of house music in the evenings. It takes a
4-5 minute stroll to get there from the city centre. Together with
the outdoor space of the adjoining café, this is a safe haven
for those who don’t fancy the ostentatious atmosphere of the
near-by street, Strahinjića Bana. If circumstances allow, the
fun-loving waiters will dance on their own in the empty café,
and if there’s a crowd, the guests will dance on the street with
their drinks in hand. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00. B

Bordel C-1 Gospodar Jevremova 6, tel +381 63 351


388 A dark and moody lounge-type affair in old town, Bordel
is one of our favourite places to grab a couple of post-dinner
drinks before moving on to a proper club. DJs spin a wide mix
of music ranging from acid jazz and soul during the day to
house and NuDisco as the night wears on. If possible try to
get a table upstairs where the seats are more comfortable,
and atmosphere a little more intimate.4Open 10:00 - 02:00.
RP Photo by: Srđan Kalinić

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


42 Nightlife
Belgrade, the Three Carrots boasts uber friendly bar staff, the
odd complimentary drink for the regulars perched up on the
stools next to the beer taps and is arguably the one place you
can go to on your own in the city without feeling like a social
leper. Though it is a magnet for Belgrade’s ex-pat community,
the locals still very much form the majority of the clientele,
which is not always the case in other capitals. 4Open 10:00 -
02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. AGPL

Clubs
Akademija C-2, Rajićeva 10, tel. (+381) 64 647 88 70,
www.akademija.net. The legendary Belgrade underground
club - considered among the top ten in Europe during the 1980s.
Photo by: Srđan Kalinić It is situated in the dark basement of the Fine Arts College. The
space is divided into two different clubs - one large and one
parts shop, is reminiscent of the world famous automobile small - playing different kinds of music. The DJs perform in a
manufacturer. The fully stocked bar serves a variety of metal cage, there are pin-ball machines in the corners, and
alcoholic drinks as well as impressively fancy cocktails and the most popular drink is beer. Local alternative bands and
aromatized coffee. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. BPER6 foreign rock bands perform here. Admission €2.5-5.5.4Open
22:00 - 04:00. PE
Plato C-2, Vasina 19, tel. (+381) 11 263 50 10. Here you
can find a bookstore, restaurant, and club with live music (mostly Bitef Art café C-2, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. (+381) 63
jazz and Latino) - all in one. The outdoor terrace is well-known for 59 42 94, www.bitefartcafe.co.rs. With live performances
its lounge chairs and laid-back atmosphere, but it also includes from some great club bands, this club is the all-time favourite
a section with standard chairs too. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sat of funk, soul and jazz enthusiasts in the city. Even though the
10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PBAREG space is somewhat confined, there’s enough room to sit or
stand. The karaoke evenings are especially popular, and they
Rakia bar C-2, Dobračina 5, tel. (+381) 11 328 61 19, include both competitions and performances. 4Open 22:00
www.rakiabar.com. A tiny bar that serves 130 different - 04:00. PAE
types of Serbian rakija (brandy), all different in aroma, strength
and therapeutic qualities and is served with a variety of Blaywatch A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb. A popular, floating
snacks. Though this is ideally the place to stop by on your way night club on the river. Foreigners like to come here for all
to dinner for a shot or two to boost your appetite, the cheerful the beautiful people in attendance. There is a small pool in
laughter of the guests will tell you that stopping after the first the very centre of the club, with girls in skimpy, barely-there
round is no easy task, and that you are likely to forget all about outfits dancing above it. A variety of music is played, from
your original plans for the evening. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, international dance hits to local turbo-folk tunes which may
Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PBA strain the unaccustomed ear. The bouncers sometimes seem
to take great pleasure in refusing to let people into the club,
The Three Carrots Irish pub C-2, Kneza Miloša 16, especially those wearing trainers. 4Open 12:00 - 04:00,
tel. (+381) 11 268 37 48. Perhaps the only real ‘pub’ in Closed Sun. BEL

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife 43

Brodić B-3 Belgrade Fair, A popular, floating night club


on the river. Foreigners like to come here for all the beautiful
people in attendance. There is a small pool in the very centre of
the club, with girls in skimpy, barely-there outfits dancing above
it. A variety of music is played, from international dance hits
to local turbo-folk tunes which may strain the unaccustomed
ear. The bouncers sometimes seem to take great pleasure in
refusing to let people into the club, especially those wearing
trainers. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. BS
Gajba C-3, Kneginje Zorke 71, tel. (+381) 11 344 99
10. A spot for socializing for those who like to share a smile
and their good mood with others. The upper level looks like a
large living room and makes you feel as if you are at a private
party. They play funk, reggae and other music you can talk
over. The lower level looks like a bar - it has a pin-ball machine
in the corner, and there are frequent performances by DJs.
Many who stop by to "warm up" for their night on the town
end up staying here because of the good atmosphere. Can
get a bit claustrophobic because of the limited space. 4Open
12:00 - 03:00. BPR6

Havana C-2, Nikole Spasića 1, tel. (+381) 11 328 31


08. This was once one of Belgrade’s most beautiful cafés. In the
course of the past few years it’s become a little shabby. However,
it still manages to attract attention with its massive bar area
and huge selection of beverages from all parts of the world. The
dance evenings are particularly popular: the Salsa evening is on
Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and the Argentine Tango evening on
Thursday. A snug dance podium and dim lighting make it the perfect
place for dance enthusiasts. During summer, the dancing takes
place out in the open - on the attractive and spacious patio.4Open
10:00 - 04:00. PBA

Hua Hua A-3, Ada Ciganlija bb, tel. (+381) 63 239 373,
(+381) 63 380 205 One of Belgrade's more unpretentious and
raucous floating riverboat clubs, it may not look like much from
the outside, but most nights of the week you're likely find it packed
wall-to-swaying-wall with a cross-section of attractive Serbian
party-goers dancing to a live band. Located on Ada Ciganlija, it's
best reached by taxi, especially since the drinks tend to come
served by the bottle rather than the glass.

Idiot C-2, Dalmatinska 13. This miniature club is a frequent


meeting place for artists and other wacky individuals. It is often so
packed that people have to stand in the street holding their drinks.
During the day, its small open terrace looking out to the Botanical
Gardens is frequently visited by students having their first “morning
coffee” at around 14:00. 4Open 12:00 - 02:00. PB

Magacin 3 B-2, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 06271


58 48. This is arguably the most exclusive night club in town and
a real magnet for city slickers and women who like to be seen in up
market places. The arrogant security staff will make it as difficult as
possible for you to get in, especially if you don’t have a reservation.
But if you do manage to get passed them, you will be greeted by an
unusual interior, combining the coarseness of concrete walls with
the delicacy of satin curtains and silver candle holders. The unisex
restroom provides additional opportunities for meeting people in
an unusual way. 4Open 21:00 - 04:00. PA

Mr Stefan Brown C-2, Nemanjina 4, tel. (+381) 65 556


64 56, www.mrstefanbaun.rs Located on the ninth storey of
a commercial building. Here you will find a lovely view of the city,
different types of cocktails, and a large bar in the centre of the club,
sturdy enough to endure the weight of the barmen and dancing
guests. The club features various theme nights depending on
the day of the week, but it’s definitely not an appropriate spot for
those below the age of twenty. The club is often packed, so try
to get there before 01:00, or they might not let you in. 4Open
23:00 - 07:00. PB

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


44 Nightlife

Casinos
Grand Casino A-1, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 220
28 00, www.casino-beograd.com. The largest area
offering games of chance in South-Eastern Europe is
located in Hotel Jugoslavija, on the Danube Quay. Besides
tables (Black Jack, Roulette, Poker, Three Cards Poker, actually know one another personaly. A 3€ music charge is added
Punto Banco, Texas Hold’em) and slot machines, the to the bill.4Open 12:00 - 02:00. PBAE
complex provides three excuisite restaurants, Roulette
Bar, Piano Bar, a VIP area and luxury jewelry Gift Shop. ŠKD C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 7, tel. (+381) 69 699 096.
4Open 24hrs. PUKAEL An underground club - both figuratively and literally - other than
a small plaque with the Cyrillic letters ШКД just outside the
basement-level door, there's little to clue you on the party going
Ona a ne neka druga Grobljanska 9, tel. (+381) 63 745 on inside. Dark and smokey with low-ceilings and a small dance
40 00. A small bistro in the Gardoš area of Zemun, where good floor, things don't get going here till well after midnight. 4Open
times are guaranteed. It is dedicated to women and men are only 08:00 - 04:00. PBAE
allowed to come in if they have female companion. The waiters
are all men. Women (only) are allowed to break glasses and give Tramvaj D-3, Ruzveltova 2, tel. (+381) 11 380 82 69.
waiters an appreciative pinch. The interior is quite charming, and Live band performances each and every night of the week - jazz,
the fact that the bistro is often jam-packed and stuffy doesn’t stop blues, funk and Latino music. The beer is cheap, and the people
the guests from getting up on the benches and dancing with joy to who come here are mainly students looking for a fun night out. A
the sounds of live music that is frequently performed here.4Open laid-back atmosphere but non-smokers may find this place stuffy
21:00 - 04:00, Closed Mon, Tue. PUBEAL bit. 4Open 08:00 - 04:00. PBAE

Plastic C-2, Corner of Takovska and Dalmatinska St, tel. The Tube C-2, Simina 21, tel. (+381) 64 508 22 72, www.
(+381) 11 3245 437, www.clubplastic.rs. Famous for its thetube.rs. Located in the basement/former nuclear shelter of a
futuristic setting and pulsating sounds of of electronic music postwar building in downtown Belgrade. The Architect, Đorđe Gec has
often played by foreign DJs, Plastic is one of the most popular created areas which interconnect with one another fluidly throughot
places among Belgrade*s youth. Live gigs are also performed the whole of the 350m² of space. The music is eclectic but mostly
here occasionally. The club is divided into two levels. The lower, based on funk, house, nu jazz and techno played by famous foreign
bigger level Plastic is mostly frequented by a younger crowd who and Serbian DJs. The admission charge depends on the event, but it
enjoy listening to the sounds of mainstream house, pop and is free most of the time. 4Open 22.00 – 05.00. PAE
R&B. The upper level, Mint, is kind of a lounge bar where you will
find fans of all ages who are into electronic music. The club is so
popular that there is often a swarm of people in front waiting to
try and get in. Entrance fees depend on the event. 4Open 22:30
– 06.00. PAE

Povetarac B-2, Brodarska bb, tel. (+381) 63 57 71 32.


An old cargo ship permanently docked on the bank of the Sava
river. The deck is perfect place to loaf around while enjoying
a beer and listening to terrific music. The people are upbeat
and the atmosphere is cosy. The evenings are reserved for DJ
performances and occasionaly live music. On rainy days, the fun
continues in the ship hull. Since it is situated in a rather remote
part of the river bank-away from public transport, the punters have
to rely on taxis to get there. 4Open 12:00 - 04:00 (20:00 - 04:00
at winter). PBGE

Reka Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. (+381) 11 261 16 25, www.


reka.co.rs. A fish restaurant in Zemun on the bank of the Danube
and more famous for the good time it offers than for its cuisine. The
restaurant is very popular, so it is advisible to make a reservation.
There is live music every night, which consist mainly of Serbian
and international pop hits which get plenty of the customers onto
their feet. The friendly atmosphere makes it seem as if the guests

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


What to see 45

200 dinars. The market is lined with bakeries, pastry houses,


restaurants and small shops. Try and visit this wonderful
place before the end of the year as proposed renovations
aim to make it look like a supermarket with a glass facade.
4Open 07:00 - 16:00

Kosančićev Venac Street B-2. A stroll down this cobbled


street will conjure up the spirit of Old Belgrade. It is located on
a hill above the Sava River Port, where a Serbian settlement
developed outside the fortress walls in the Middle Ages. Today,
it features art studios, galleries, cafés, the main building of
the College of Arts and the remains of the National Library,
which was destroyed in 1941 by Luftwaffe bombing and an
entire collection of books and priceless medieval manuscripts
in the Cyrillic alphabet along with it. The street is named after
a Serbian hero from the Kosovo Battle of 1389.

Knez Mihailova Street C-2. The main promenade and


Essential Belgrade shopping zone. A pedestrian area, it stretches between
Belgrade fortress B-1. Located on a hill overlooking the Terazije and Kalemegdan Park. It is named after Prince
confluence of the Sava River and the Danube. The Romans Mihailo Obrenović, the most enlightened ruler of modern
were the first to build a fort (castrum) on this site and in Serbia and the younger son of Prince Miloš. He came to the
the late 1st century AD, it became the HQ of the IV Flavian throne after his father’s death in 1860 and was assassinated
Legion. Over the centuries of sieges, battles and conquests, during a stroll through Košutnjak Park in 1868. Buildings and
the fortress was repeatedly razed to the ground, rebuilt and mansions erected in the late 19th century adorn the street.
restructured. It took on its present shape round the end of
the 18th century, but again, the wars that followed destroyed
nearly all the buildings. The Belgrade Fortress consists of
Upper Town, Lower Town and Kalemegdan Park. Kalemegdan
Park was created as late as the 19th century on a plateau
in front of the fortress, which was cleared for centuries to
allow for an unobstructed view of the advancing enemy.
The park is popular because of its many shaded benches,
random sculptures, an art pavilion, zoo, amusement park and
souvenir vendors. It is a favourite haunt for chess players,
squirrels and couples in love.
Most of the preserved fortress ramparts and gates are located
in the Upper Town, as well as the Military Museum, St. Petka
and Ružica churches, Roman Well (an intriguing building whose
eerie waters have claimed many lives) and the symbol of
Belgrade - Pobednik (The Victor). The plateau with the statue
of Pobednik offers stunning views over the rivers and incredible
sunsets. The Lower Town on the banks of the Danube was the
main city centre in the Middle Ages. It was surrounded by walls
and had a port. Only a few buildings remain today: Kula Nebojša
(Daredevil Tower) from 1460, the Turkish Bath from the 18th
century (which today houses a planetarium) and the Gate of
Carl VI from 1736. No admission fee. 4Open 24 hrs. Republic Square C-2. The main city square which features
the National Theatre (completed in 1869), the National
Kalenić Pijaca D-3, Maksima Gorkog bb. The biggest Museumand a monument to Prince Mihailo, which was erected
open-air market in Belgrade is a vibrant place which valiantly in 1882. The area is popular with Belgraders as a meeting
fights off the competition from the supermarkets. Besides point. It was once the location of the infamous Stambol Gate,
the obvious fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, eggs, fish and which was the main entrance to the Belgrade Fortress. Today
seafood, honey, pickles and craftwork, you will find national this square hosts concerts, demonstrations and various
delicacies such as ‘sir’ (cottage cheese) and ‘kajmak’ (clotted other events. The National Museum is closed to visitors
cream). Take a walk through the colourful stands, chat with because it does not have the right conditions for displaying
the vendors and you will be given fruit, cheese or prosciutto the artefacts and the current reconstruction process will take
to taste for free. You will also learn that fruit and vegetables several years. So, unfortunately you will not be able to see the
of perfect shape and colour, that have come straight from large collection of international paintings (particularly of the
greenhouses and ‘have not seen the light of day’ are haughtily impressionists) stored at the museum, or its most valued
disdained. Those with a beautifully fresh scent, sold by treasure - Miroslavljevo jevanđelje (the Miroslav Gospel), the
elderly women in headscarves, are vastly preferred. If you oldest preserved manuscript in the Serbian Cyrillic alphabet
get hungry, you can buy grilled lobster and a bread roll for (from 1190) with its very rich adornments.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


46 What to see
some time now but is well worth a visit because Gardoš, an old
part of Zemun, is such a quaint and romantic place. Only the
twittering of swallows interrupts the calm of the narrow, cobbled
streets and rows of low-slung houses. Gardoš features a broad
range of small cafés and fish restaurants and the plateau in front
of the tower offers magnificent views of the city.

Princess Ljubica’s Residence B-2, Kneza Sime


Markovića 8, tel. (+381) 11 263 82 64. A representative
building dating from the first half of the 19th century. Built on
the orders of Prince Miloš Obrenović for his family, Princess
Ljubica and sons Milan and Mihailo, and completed in 1831.
The permanent exhibition includes original furniture made in
various styles of the 19th century: Biedermaier, Neo-Baroque,
Neo-Rococo and Oriental. It hosts themed exhibitions in the
basement, in the Vaults Hall. Admission 100 dinars, students,
pupils, unemployed and pensioners 50 dinars, children under 7
admission free. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon.

Royal compound Located on top of Dedinje hill, the


compound covers an area of 135 hectares. It includes a Royal
Palace, which was completed in 1929, and a White Palace that
was finished in 1936 and was intended for the King’s sons, along
with service buildings. A tour of the royal compound includes
a visit to the representative sections of both palaces (and a
display of artwork by Poussin, Breughel, Canaletto, Veronese,
Rembrandt), a chapel, royal park and the grave of Davorjanka
Paunović (the secretary to and greatest love of Josip Broz
Tito, who abolished the monarchy and moved into the royal
compound when he came to power). Nowadays, this is again
one of the Karađorđević family’s homes. They are: HRH Crown

Jewish Belgrade
Skadarlija C-2, Skadarska Street. A vintage street that The Book of Esther is recited in Belgrade on the
dates from the late 19th century. This steep cobbled area 15th day of Adar (Shushan Purim). Ashkenazi Jews,
is dotted with famous Belgrade taverns: Dva jelena (The who migrated from central Europe, settled over the
Two Deers), Tri šešira (The Three Hats), Dva bela goluba (The centuries along the Sava River. Following the 1492
Two White Pigeons), Zlatni bokal (The Golden Jug), Ima dana expulsion from Spain, the Sephardic Jews settled
(There’s Time), Šešir moj (This Hat of Mine), galleries, antiques in the Belgrade area of Dorćol. Just before WW2,
and souvenir shops. In the early 20th century, it became a the Belgrade Jews, like Serbs, were divided over
hub for the arts and artists in Belgrade, a bohemian quarter their loyalties to the King and to Communism. There
drawing poets, journalists, painters, and actors. Today, its were divisions even among Jewish masons, some of
guests are mostly tourists whose presence accounts for the whom belonged to the Serbian Lodge and others to
higher prices and removal of many authentic Serbian dishes Jewish Bene Berith Lodge in Belgrade. During WW2,
from the menus. The evening is the best time for a visit, when under German occupation, Belgrade Jews suffered
live traditional Serbian music spills from all tavern doors. The a terrible fate and the city underwent the infamy of
great atmosphere will take your attention away from run of the being the first in Europe to be proclaimed as Juden-
mill food and indifferent waiters. frei. The Baruh Brothers Choir, founded in 1879 as a
Serbo-Jewish Singing Society, is still active. Before
WW2, the Jewish community in Belgrade was about
Historic buildings 12,000 strong, and today about 2,200 Jews live in
Kafana ‘?’ B-2, Kralja Petra 6. This authentic Serbian tavern Belgrade
of an unusual name is located in one of the oldest houses in the Jewish Cemetery D-2, Mije Kovačevića 1, tel. 276
city. Erected in 1823, it opened as a tavern in 1826, and was the 82 50. A Sephardic Cemetery dating from 1888, it was
first to install a billiard table in Belgrade, in 1834. There is still later expanded and became Jewish Cemetery. The
a wood stove for cooking beans and roasting potatoes in one Ashkenazi Cemetery, located across the road in the
of the corners. Great for national cuisine and draught beer. The New Cemetery, is no longer in function.
tavern has a summer terrace, and you can always hear the lively Jewish Community of Belgrade C-1 (founded in
buzz of conversation. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. PBA 1866), Kralja Petra 71a, tel. (+381) 11 262 42 89
Jewish Community of Zemun (founded in 1739),
Millennium Tower Located on Gardoš, approached by a Dubrovačka 21, tel. (+381) 11 19 56 26
path leading from Grobljanska Street, Millennium Tower was Jewish Historical Museum C-1, Kralja Petra
built by the Hungarians in 1896 to celebrate a thousand years 71a, tel. (+381) 11 262 26 34. 4Open 10:00 - 14:00,
of their presence in the Pannonian Plain. Four such towers were Closed Sat, Sun.
erected on the border and this one marks the southernmost Synagogue C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 19. Built in 1926
corner of the Austro-Hungarian empire. It was built on the ruins by the Ashkenazi Jews.
of a 15th century fortress and has been closed to the public for

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


What to see 47

Prince Aleksandar II, Princess Katherine, Hereditary Prince


Petar and Princes Filip and Aleksandar. The guided tour takes
2 hours. Information and registration at: Tourist Information
Centre, Makedonska 5, tel. (+381) 11 334 34 60.

Historic Churches
St. Mark’s Church C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 17.
Constructed between 1931 and 1940 in the Serbo-Byzantine
Balon Servis
style, next to an old church from 1835 which was destroyed
Salvadora Aljendea br. 5, tel. (+381) 64 822 0408,
during bombing in 1941. The decoration of the church interior
office@balonservis.rs, www.balonservis.rs
was abandoned due to the war and it is still unfinished. The
Take in the views of Belgrade from 1,000m above with a
church houses some of the most valuable Serbian icons
60-90 minute ride in a hot air balloon. Pricing depends on
and a sarcophagus with the remains of Serbian Emperor
the number of passengers (with a capacity of up to four), and
Stefan Dušan inside.
trips are available every day of the year, weather permitting.
Call for more information.
St. Petka’s Chapel B-1, Belgrade Fortress. This
contemporary church was built in 1937, above a miraculous
spring. In the Middle Ages, this was the site of a church where cross extending for another 12m, making it the highest
the holy remains of St. Petka’s (Paraskevi) were placed until peak in Belgrade.
1521. The chapel still guards the saint’s hand, and the ill
come to wash their faces during spring. St Petka is much Cathedral Church B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića bb.
venerated among Belgraders. The main church in the city, dedicated to St. Michael the
Archangel. The present church (from 1845) was built on the
St. Sava Temple C-3, Svetosavski trg. St. Sava site of a former cathedral, dating from the 16th century, which
(1169-1236) was the first Archbishop of Serbia. The temple was repeatedly demolished and desecrated by the Ottoman
is built on the site where his remains were burned by the Turks. The church contains the holy remains of the Serbian
Ottoman Turks in 1594. The design to build the temple saint Emperor Uroš (the last of Nemanjić Royal house) and
was created in 1894 and the construction began in 1936, it is the burial site of some of the most important figures in
only to be interrupted with Germany’s attack on Yugoslavia Serbian history: Vuk Karadžić, Dositej Obradović, and the
in 1941. It recommenced in 1985, on securing consent Serbian rulers of the Obrenović dynasty - Miloš, Mihailo
from the state. The interior of the church is currently being and Milan. The interior is richly decorated with a gold-plated
decorated. St. Sava Temple is the largest place of worship carved iconostasis. Across from the church is the seat of
for the Serbian people and can receive 10,000 people at the Patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox Church, a building
any one time. Its base is 91 x 81m, and its central dome, completed in 1935.
weighing 4,000 tons, is 70m high, with the main gold-plated

Mosque
Baryakli Mosque C-1 Gospodar Jevremova 11, tel.
262 24 28. Built during Ottoman rule, around 1575. It
was named Baryakli after a baryak (flag) which was raised
to signal the simultaneous beginning of prayers in all the
mosques of Belgrade. The only mosque still functioning
in Belgrade.

Cemeteries
New Cemetery D-2, Ruzveltova 50, tel. (+381) 11 207
13 00. Founded in 1886, this is the oldest existing cemetery
in Belgrade. Its origins are linked to the relocation of the Old
Cemetery, which once occupied the site of the present-day
Tašmajdan Park. Many important figures in Serbian history -
scientists, artists, military leaders, statesmen - were buried
here. Quite a number of gravestones are fine works of art
in their own right and were created by well-known sculptors.
Part of the site is occupied by French, Italian, Russian,
Bulgarian and Austro-Hungarian military cemeteries from
WW1 and the English Military Cemetery from WW2. 4Open
07:00 - 19:00
Behaviour in the church
When you visit churches and other religious buildings, you are Parks & Gardens
expected to behave respectfully and speak quietly. Churches Jevremovac Botanic Garden C-2, entrance at the
are open throughout the day and you can enter even during a corner of Takovska and Dalmatinska Streets. A perfect spot
service, but try not to interrupt it or draw attention to yourself. to take a break from the bustle of the city. Founded in 1874,
You are not allowed to enter wearing shorts, flip-flops, a mini covering an area of 5 hectares, it is home to diverse plants
skirt, with your belly exposed... Women are not allowed in from all over the world, a conservatory constructed in 1892
the altar area behind the iconostasis. Taking photos with and a Japanese garden. Admission 120 dinars. Children
permission only. under 7, pregnant women and students - admission free.
4Open 09:00 - 19:00.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


48 What to see
Park of Pioneers C-2. Opened to the public in 1944, this
Sava and Danube Rivers park was once a palace garden. It is laid out between the Old
Palace and the New Palace, the Old Palace being the residence
of Obrenović royal line and the present city hall, which was
Experience the Belgrade rivers from up close - the Sava completed in 1884. The park was demolished during both
(female gender, temperamental) and the Danube (mighty world wars and post-war renovations changed its appearance
and powerful). You can take a walk or bicycle ride along considerably. The New Palace, a residence of the Karađorđević
the shore, stop by for a drink or have lunch at one of the dynasty, was completed in 1921 and today houses the
many floating restaurants, or experience the city at all official seat of the President of Serbia. The park features an
angles by taking a cruise on one of the tour boats. observation post of the HQ of the Serbian Army from WW1,
relocated from the Salonika Front.

Tašmajdan Park C-2. A favourite place for parents and


nannies to take their children for a walk. The park is laid out
between St. Mark’s Church, the Russian Church, the Central
Post Office (built in 1934), the Children’s Cultural Centre, Duško
Radović children’s theatre, the children’s amusement park, a
sports centre featuring indoor and outdoor swimming pools and
the main building of the state-run TV company (hit during NATO’s
1999 bombing). In 1830, the Ottoman Sultan’s charter on the
internal independence of Serbia was read out at Tašmajdan.
Since Roman times it served as a quarry deep bellow the
ground and doubled as a cemetery above (Tašmajdan means
quarry in Turkish). The cemetery was relocated to the present
New Cemetery in the late 19th century. The cave and caverns
below the park (an area of about 3,000m², up to 10m in height)
were once used as food depots, for military arsenals and as
shelters. Regrettably, tours of these fascinating underground
chambers are not available at present.
River cruising: Topčider Park A great place to spend a sunny afternoon.
Hydro Speedboat "Maslacak" tel.(+381) Prince Miloš Obrenović set about developing the park in 1831,
11 311 9241, (+381) 11 311 9653 , Belgrade, by furnishing it with royal necessities: a residence, a church,
Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 10a, YUBC, dtlbg@eunet. barracks and a tavern. The residence was completed in 1834,
rs, www.dtltransport.net Sail on the Danube, Sava and that is where the Prince lived his last years and where he
and Tisa Rivers to the destination of your choice with died. When the residence was finished, the area was planted
an amazing cruising speed of 55-60 km/h. Organised with plane-trees, the biggest of which is protected by the state
trips, charters and boat rentals can be arranged. Some and is 44m high, with a crown diameter of 50m. It casts shade
standard trips include: Danube: Belgrade - Djerdap of 1,400 sqm. You can ride round the park in a carriage and
Gorge (3 hours), Danube: Belgrade - Silver Lake (2 have scrumptious roasted lamb on the terrace of Milošev Konak
hours), Danube: Belgrade - Viminacium (1 hour), Sava: Restaurant. The park hosts a monument to the Swiss professor,
Belgrade - Sremska Mitrovica (2 hours), Tisa: Belgrade publicist and criminologist Archibald Reiss (1876-1930), who
- Novi Becej (2 hours) arrived in Serbia as a member of a team inquiring into the
Yachting Club Kej tel. (+381) 64 825 11 03, www. atrocities committed by the Austro-Hungarian and Bulgarian
klubkej.com. Day and night cruising with or without army in Serbia during WW1, and stayed to live in Belgrade,
lunch/dinner and music. Departure is from Yachting where he founded the Belgrade police crime lab.
Club Kej floating hostel and restaurant near the end of
the Ušće Street. Duration: 2 hours. Catamaran capacity:
70 places. Admission 350 dinars. It is possible to rent
the catamaran.
Museums
The 25th of May Museum Botićeva 6, tel. tel. (+381)
Sirona (luxury ship) Reservations: (+381) 11 303 11 367 14 85. The museum is home to the House of Flowers,
90 90, (+381) 63 26 26 90, www.sirona.rs, office@ which is Josip Broz Tito‘s mausoleum. The items on show include
sirona.rs. Day and night crusing on Sava and Danube Tito’s Rolls-Royce Phantom V dating from 1960, the precious
rivers with live entertainment and buffet lunch/dinner gifts he received from people from all over the world, his 106
included . Departure from Sava Passenger Dock at international and local decorations, an astonishing collection
Karađorđeva Street. of 20,000 different relay batons presented ceremonially to Tito
by Communist Party of Yugoslavia pioneers on his birthday,
(celebrated on May 25th) following weeks of relay running
Košutnjak Spread out over a hill that is 250m high, this around the whole country. Although this museum attracts
330 hectare forest park used to be the royal hunting grounds more visitors than any other in Belgrade, due to widespread
until 1903, when it was opened to the public. The forest, a fascination with Tito, its collections are inadequately displayed
mixture of deciduous and coniferous trees, is crisscrossed and sometimes inaccessible to visitors. No guided tours.
with numerous trim trails and nature walks and there are Admission: 200 dinars 4Open 10:00 - 16:00.
picnic tables in the clearings for the overwhelming majority
who prefer to just sit and enjoy a barbeque. The Košutnjak Ethnographic Museum C-1, Studentski trg 13, tel.
Sports Centre features an indoor and five outdoor swimming (+381) 11 328 18 88. The permanent display here features a
pools, tennis courts, a football pitch and volleyball and rich collection of folk costumes, kilims, craftwork, tools, furniture,
basketball facilities. There are a number of restaurants old photos depicting folk rites and jewellery. Themed exhibitions
beneath shady trees and a spring at the foot of the hill, whose are mounted from time to time. There is a souvenir and handiwork
water is safe to drink. shop. Levels one and three are wheelchair friendly. Admission

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


What to see 49

150 dinars, students and children 60 dinars. Sun: admission free.


4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon.

Military Museum B-1, Belgrade Fortress, tel.(+381) 11


334 34 41. Founded in 1878. The larger part of the old collection
was carried off by the Germans in WW2. The remaining items
span ancient to modern times (weapons, armour, wartime flags,
paintings, photographs, equipment, uniforms and decorations). the museum features a large collection of racing motorcycles,
There is a permanent display within the museum building, while photographs, equipment and a souvenir shop. You are not allowed
on the outside, artillery weapons from the 18th-20th century and to take pictures. Admission 100 dinars, students 80 dinars, children
armoured vehicles line the ramparts and trenches of the fortress. under 7 admission free. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Closed Mon.
The most recent acquisitions include a Humvee captured from the
US Army in 1999. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars. 4Open Nikola Tesla Museum C-3, Krunska 51, tel: (+381) 11 243
10:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. 38 86. Nikola Tesla (1856–1943), a Serbian inventor, scientist and
electrical engineer, who made revolutionary contributions to the
Museum of Aviation Nikola Tesla Airport, tel. (+381) 11 discipline of electricity and magnetism. He is the inventor of the AC
267 09 92. Founded in 1957, this museum owns various types current, the three-phase system of power transmission, induction
of aircraft, engines, equipment, aircraft models and photographs. motor, high-frequency power generators and transformers, a
The exhibits are displayed within what is an architecturally striking pioneer of MRI, robotics, wireless communications and remote
building, and in the surrounding patio. This place is valued world- control technologies. In 1943, the Supreme Court of the United
wide for its collection of WW2 fighter aircraft, which include a States credited him as being the inventor of the radio. The unit
Messerchmitt Me-109, Hurricane Mk IV, Spitfire Mk Vc, Yak-3, for measuring magnetic field was named tesla in his honour. The
Illushin IL-2, Thunderbolt P-47 and the only surviving Fiat G-50 in the museum houses his personal legacy, scientific papers and urn
world. It houses the remains of the only downed F-117 Nighthawk with his ashes. Demonstrations of his experiments are available
stealth fighter in the world, a wreckage of a US F-16 and cruise for pre-registered group visits. Admission 150 dinars, foreigners
missiles and unmanned aircraft shot down in 1999. Admission 300 dinars. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00,
200 dinars, children 170 dinars, foreigners 450 dinars. 4Open Closed Mon.
09:00 - 18:30, Mon 09:00 - 15:30.
Yugoslav Film Archive C-2, Kosovska 11 (cinema),
Museum of Automobiles C-2, Majke Jevrosime 30, tel. tel. (+381) 11 324 82 50. Founded in 1949, the archive is
(+381) 11 303 46 25. There are around 40 old-timers on considered to be one of the five most important in the world.
permanent display, part of a collection owned by Bratislav Petković. Its collections include over 95,000 copies of national and
The museum is appropriately housed in the first public garage in international films, posters, photographs, scripts and artefacts,
the city, which was built in 1929. The oldest automobile is a Marot- such as the Lumiere brother’s camera No. 335 from 1896. Film
Gardon from 1897. In addition to the old-timers (all in working order), buffs will enjoy daily shows of art films from the archives.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


50 Mail & Phones
Important phone numbers
Police: 92
Fire Department: 93
Ambulance: 94
Road assistance: 987
Phone numbers information: 988 You can make a telephone call from Halo telephone
booths. You will need a Halo telephone card (for local
and international calls) or Halo Plus telephone card (for
international calls only) available at kiosks and post
Posting a letter offices for 300 and 600 dinars respectively. A call to
The postal code for Belgrade is 11000. If you have stamps, the UK or the USA with one Halo card will last about 8.5
you can pop your letters and postcards into a post box and 4.5 minutes respectively. A Halo Plus card allows
(post boxes come in different sizes and colours, but are longer calls: 40 minutes with the UK or 30 minutes with
all marked with the logo Pošta) or leave them at the post the USA. When buying a Halo Plus card you must choose
office. The price of a standard letter for delivery in Serbia is between three types of card: for overseas calls, for calls
20 dinars, and for delivery worldwide 46 dinars (regardless to European countries, and for calls to the countries of the
of the destination). International mail (other than standard former Yugoslavia.
letters) is delivered to the post office unsealed, to allow for
customs inspection if necessary.
Mobile phones
There are three mobile operators in Serbia: MTS (064,
Post 065), Telenor, (062, 063) and VIP Mobile (060, 061).
Post Office 1 C-2, Takovska 2, tel. (+381) 11 324 Pre-paid packages and recharge cards for all three
34 81. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed networks are available at their retail shops, kiosks and
Sun. supermarkets and in the case of the MTS network in post
Post Office 3 C-2, Zmaj Jovina 17, tel. (+381) 63 offices as well.
34 92. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Closed MTS C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 7, tel. 064 789. www.
Sun. mts.telekom.rs
Post Office 6 C-2, Savska 2, tel. (+381) 11 3643 Telenor C-2, Kosovska 49, tel. 063 98 63. www.
117. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. telenor.co.rs
Post Office 8 Glavna 8, tel. (+381) 11 371 40 18. Vip mobile C-2, Knez Mihailova 21, tel. 060 12 34.
4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. www.vipmobile.rs
Post Of f ice 123 A -1 , Bulevar umetnosti 4 - 6
(Mercator Shopping Centre), tel. (+381) 11 311 68
47. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. WiFi Hotspots
Absinthe C-3, Kralja Milutina 33, tel: (+381) 11 364
06 25. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00
Express Mail Apropo C-2, Cara Lazara 10, tel (+381) 11 262 58 39.
DHL Jurija gagarina 36v, tel. (+381) 11 310 55 00. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun.
4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Cantina de Frida B-2, Karadjordjeva 2-4, tel. (+381)
FedEx Autoput 22, tel. (+381) 11 314 90 75. 4Open 11 218 11 20. 4Open 12:00 - 03:00
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Casa Nova C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 42a, tel. (+381)
Post Express C-2, Takovska 2, tel. (+381) 11 360 11 303 68 67. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00
76 07. Operating in the territory of Serbia. 4Open 08:00 Cruise Sava Quay (Block 70), tel. (+381) 11 215 75
- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. 10. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00
UPS Nikola Tesla airport, tel. (+381) 11 228 64 22. Hot Spot Café C-1, Studentski trg 21, tel. (+381) 11
4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. 263 92 05. 4Open 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Klub književnika C-2, Francuska 7, tel. (+381) 11
262 79 31. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00
City Express Mail Lava Bar C-3, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. (+381) 11 361
Beo Messenger C-3, Birčaninova 8, tel. (+381) 11 05 25. 4Open 10:00 - 04:00
264 49 14. 4Open 08:30 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Little Bay C-2, Dositejeva 9a, tel. (+381) 11 328 89
BG info Box D-3, Živojina Žujovića 24, tel. (+381) 11 95. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00
38 300 50. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Living C-1, Strahinjića Bana 52, tel. (+381) 11 291
City runner Trebevićka 47, tel. (+381) 11 354 04 99. 01 35. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00
4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Majik C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 38a, tel. (+381) 11
334 86 90. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00
Metropolitan Grill B-2 Milentija Popovića 5, tel.
Making a phonecall (+381) 11 301 11 40. 4Open 06:30 - 23:30
To call a local number within Belgrade, dial the number Municipality of New Belgrade A-1, Bulevar Mihajla
directly and to make a call to another area, dial the relevant Pupina 167. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun.
area code first. To call abroad, dial the international access Salvadore Dali C-2, Hilandarska 20, tel. (+381) 11
code (00), followed by the country code, the area code and 334 37 78. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00.
the phone number. Plato C-2, Akademski plato 1, tel. (+381) 11 263 50
When you are making a call to a mobile, first dial the prefix 10. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00
of the mobile phone. To call a land line from a mobile, you Sport Café C-2, Makedonska 4, tel. (+381) 11 324
need to dial the area code before the phone number (the 31 77. 4Open 11:00 - 23:00
area code for Belgrade is 011). Student Park C-2. 4Open 24hrs.

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Getting around 51

Public transport Trains


Belgrade does not have an underground railway system and Central Railway Station B-2, Savski trg 2, tel. (+381)
it does not look as if it is going to get one soon (although 11 360-28-99 (00:00-24:00). www.serbianrailways.
it has one of the deepest tube stations in Europe, at 42m com. Serbian railways are in poor repair, as a result of a
below ground level). City transport comprises buses, trams long-lasting economic crisis. Railway carriages are very old
and trolleybuses. Buses are operated by a public utility and the train speed does not exceed 80km/h. Delays and
company controlled by the city council and a number of inexplicable stoppage occur with maddening regularity, so
private companies, which accounts for the differences in if you want to travel round the country in relative speed and
shape, colour and age of the buses out on the streets. comfort, go for long distance buses. Those who love trains
There are only single-ride tickets, available at most kiosks at should not miss a ride on Šargan Eight (a narrow gauge
a flat rate of 42 dinars (regardless of the form of transport). heritage railway offering one of the most picturesque routes
You can also buy a ticket on board, from the driver, for 80 in the world), or Romantika Train (steam locomotive and
dinars. You have to validate your ticket once you get on authentic 1st, 2nd and 3rd class carriages from the early
board, by punching it with a ticket validator, installed near 20th century that take you for journeys outside Belgrade) -
each door. A ride without a valid ticket is fined 3 000 dinars. see the Serbian Railways website for more information.
Public transport runs (roughly) from 04:00 to 00:00. During
night time, buses run at 1-hour intervals from 00:10 to 02:10. Train tickets
Night buses depart from special stops at the Republic Square Tickets for regular local and international lines are
towards other parts of the city. The night fare is 74 dinars, available at Central Railway Station and at:
available on board. Putnik, C-2, Dragoslava Jovanovića 1, tel. 323 19 05.
You are advised to avoid trams if you are in a hurry, because Rekreaturs, C-2, Dragoslava Jovanovića 3, tel. 323
one broken tram blocks an entire line (or two), and this 05 58
invariably happens right in the middle of two stops, in pouring Wasteels, B-2, Central Railway Station, tel. 265
rain. Belgrade public transport is generally efficient. In the 88 68
Old Town, a bus may prove to be faster than a car, because
most streets have bus-only lanes. Airlines
Aeroflot B-5, Knez Mihailova 30/3, tel. (+381) 11 328
Taxis 60 71, begtosu@aeroflot.ru, www.aeroflot.ru. 4Open
08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun.
Aerosvit B-5, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. (+381) 11 328
Quite a few taxi operators in Belgrade are reckless 82 37, aerosvit@eunet.rs, www.aerosvit.com. 4Open
drivers who hate to take passengers on short rides (e.g. 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun.
from Slavija to Terazije). A taxi must display the name of Air France B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381) 11 263
its taxi company and its ID number. Inside the taxi, the 82 22. 4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun.
price list and ID card of the driver must be in clear view. Alitalia B-5, Terazije 43, tel. (+381) 11 324 50 00,
Your fare is shown on the meter. www.alitalia.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat,
Avoid taxi drivers that do not belong to any taxi company Sun.
(their taxi roof signs display only ‘taxi’ without stating a Austrian B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 (+381) 11 324
company name), who usually hang around the airport 80 77, office.belgrade@austrian.com, www.austrian.
and accost travellers. They will overcharge you either by com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun.
negotiating an exorbitant fare or using a fast meter. Taxi British Airways B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381)
fare in Belgrade is quite easy on the pocket: there is a 11 328 13 03, www.britishairways.com. 4Open 09:00
start-up fee of 119 dinars and the rate per kilometre is - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun.
46 dinars at the low tariff (Mon to Sat 06:00 - 22:00) or Czech Airlines B-5, Kralja Milana 6, tel. (+381) 11
52 dinars at the high tariff (Mon to Sat 22:00 - 06:00, 361 45 92, beg.booking@czechairlines.com, www.
Sunday and public holidays). Some taxi companies give czechairlines.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat,
a 20% discount if you order a taxi by phone. Beogradski Sun.
taksi’ taxi company (Tel. 9801) uses normal daily rates Jat Airways C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 17, tel. (+381) 11
for services rendered at night, on weekends and public 32 32 372, jatbegto@jat.com, www.jat.com. 4Open
holidays. They also offer fixed, attractive rates to the 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.
airport. Lufthansa B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 303 49
There is usually no extra charge for the luggage but if the 44, www.lufthansa.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed
taxi driver feels entitled to make that charge, he would Sat, Sun.
have to state so at the outset, or you are not obliged Montenegro Airlines B-5, Knez Mihailova 23, tel.
to pay it. A tip is not required but is appreciated, so (+381) 11 262 11 22, www.montenegroairlines.com.
you may round off the fare. Pets are transported with 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun.
the driver’s consent. Many Belgraders like to sit next Olympic Airlines B-5, Vase Čarapića 14, tel. (+381)
to the driver and have a nice chat. You can ask the taxi 11 303 67 50, olybeg@eunet.rs, www.olympicairlines.
driver about hotels, restaurants, or indeed anything com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun.
you would like to know about the city or local politics. Srilankan Airlines C-2, Francuska 17/1, tel. (+381)
Most taxi drivers are smokers but you can request 11 334 82 64, www.srilankan.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00,
a non-smoking vehicle, or simply ask the driver to Closed Sat, Sun.
extinguish the cigarette. Swiss Air Lines B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 303
Trusted taxi companies 01 40, www.swiss.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed
Beotaxi tel.(+381) 11 970 Sat, Sun.
Beogradski taxi tel. (+381) 11 9801
Lux taxi tel. (+381) 11303 31 23
NBA taxi tel. (+381) 11318 57 77 www.inyourpocket.com
Pink taxi tel. (+381) 119803

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


52 Getting around
Turkish Airlines B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381) Hertz C-2, Dragoslava Jovanovića 1, tel. (+381) 11
11 303 61 95, flightacademy@thy.com, www.thy.com. 320 87 36, www.hertz.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
4Open 09:00 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel.
064 848 54 02, open 08:00 - 20:00.
UniRent A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 45g, tel. (+381)
Airport 11 313 30 09, www.unirent.co.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Nikola Tesla airport tel. (+381) 11 209 44 44, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport,
www.beg.aero Located 18km to the west of the city tel. 209 41 40, open 08:00 - 20:00.
centre, near a place called Surčin, likely to claim the title Yu team A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 71, tel. (+381)
of the foggiest site in Belgrade. Though the sun may be 11 269 23 39, www.yuteam.co.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00,
shining brightly above the rest of Belgrade, your flight could Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun Closed. Also at the Airport, tel. 228
still be late due to the fog that often does not venture 61 61, open 08:00 - 20:00.
farther than the airport perimeter. The airport building Zim C-2 Čubrina 6-8, tel. (+381) 11 218 58 51, www.
has been renovated recently but there are still some zim-rentacar.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00
nooks and crannies where renovation work began only to
be left unfinished. Serbia’s national airline is JAT Airways,
which operates a fairly old fleet but is nevertheless one Car parks
of the safest air carriers in the world. At time of writing, Parking presents a problem. There are very few parking
Germanwings and Norwegian Air are the only low-cost garages, and only a few companies can boast the luxury
airlines which fly to Belgrade. of private parking. To compound the mess, the Old Town is
divided into three parking zones: red zone (one-hour parking
limit), yellow (two-hour) and green (three-hour). You can pay
Avio taxi for parking by filling out a parking coupon for the relevant
Air Pink Jove Ilića 13, tel. (+381) 11 391 01 00, www. zone, available at kiosks with instructions in English overleaf.
airpink.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00 Another way to pay for parking is to send an SMS message
Prince Aviation A-1, Goce Delčeva 40-42, tel. (+381) with the number of licence plates to 9111 for Zone 1, 9112 for
11 303 23 03, www.princeaviation.com. 4Open 09:00 Zone 2 and 9113 for Zone 3. You will receive a confirmation
- 17:00 message in Serbian, so it might be safer to use the parking
coupon, in case you were rejected. If you opt for parking in
a parking garage, no parking limit applies.
Buses
Central Bus Station C-2, Železnička 4, tel. (+381) You may notice that some local drivers have a habit of
11 262 71 46 (local routes), 263 62 99 (international parking their cars with blithe insouciance in the middle of the
routes), www.zeleznicesrbije.com. Busservices account street, even in the yellow lane, reserved for public transport,
for the bulk of domestic passenger traffic in Serbia. There without suffering any consequences. This occurs with
are buses for big towns (such as Novi Sad, Niš) running at annoying regularity on Nušićeva, Kraljice Marije, 27. Marta,
frequent intervals throughout the day. The bus station is Svetogorska and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra among others.
a ramshackle affair, quite unlikely to inspire the urge to We do not advise you to follow their example because it is
linger awhile. Ticket windows are open 24 hrs a day and so an ugly habit, posing a problem for other drivers.
are public toilet facilities and a restaurant, whose clientele
during the night time is likely to include pickpockets, con-
men, prostitutes, drowsy farmers and students waiting for Limo rental
the earliest morning buses, because they have nowhere to Limo Service Cara Dušana 173 (Zemun), tel. (063)
stay. The food on offer is overpriced and unsavoury. Arrivals 123 55 55. Lincoln TownCar (White, Black), Mercedes S
are across the nearby park. 320 CDI.
Lasta Bus Station B-2, Železnička 2, tel. (+381)
11 334 85 55, www.lasta.co.rs. Lasta is the largest
bus operator in Serbia, a partner of the Eurolines system
Train Schedule
and runs a large number of local and international lines. Its From Belgrade To Belgrade
station is smaller and offers fewer facilities than the Central Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
Bus Station. 10:10 20:09 BAR 21:00 06:26
22:10 07:53 BAR 12:20 21:43
15:55 05:39 BUCHAREST 21:45 08:54
Car rental 07:50 08:25
05:50 17:50
ISTANBUL
LJUBLJANA
22:00 19:20
14:40 23:27
Avis B-2, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. (+381) 11 313 96 21:40 07:27 LJUBLJANA 08:15 17:20
16, www.avis.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. 07:50 17:00 SKOPJE 09:00 18:06
Also at the Airport, tel. 209 70 62, open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 21:50 07:06 SKOPJE 20:45 06:00
08:00 - 22:00. 07:50 17:40 SOFIA 11:55 19:20
Budget A-2, Proleterske solidarnosti 38, tel. (+381) 21:15 07:15 SOFIA 20:20 04:50
11 311 30 50, www.budget.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, 07:50 21:50 THESSALONIKI 06:00 18:06
22:00 12:31 THESSALONIKI 17:05 05:45
Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Also at the Airport, 21:20 09:00 VIENNA 18:50 06:15
tel. 228 63 61, open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 05:50 12:56 ZAGREB 06:06 12:25
10:00 - 14:00. 10:35 17:50 ZAGREB 09:00 15:38
City rent a car Omladinskih brigada 90, tel. (+381) 11 21:50 04:50 ZAGREB 23:50 06:20
225 87 84, www.cityrentacar.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, 10:45 08:20 ZURICH 21:40 17:20
Sat 09:00 - 14:00, closed Sun
Europcar A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 59, tel. (+381) Schedule is subject to change. Belgrade In Your Pocket
11 301 50 04, www.europcar.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 90 28, shown here.
open 08:00 - 22:00.

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Getting around 53

Flight Schedule
From Belgrade To Belgrade
Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.
1-3----7 08:10 10:40 AMSTERDAM (JU) 1-345-7 11:20 13:35
----5-- 14:35 17:05 AMSTERDAM (JU) ----5-- 17:20 19:35
---4--- 12:40 16:30 AMSTERDAM (JU) ---4--- 11:25 15:05
1-3---- 07:00 09:05 ATHENS (JU) 1-3---- 10:30 11:05
----5--- 17:25 20:05 ATHENS (JU) ----5-- 20:55 21:30
12-4-6- 20:00 23:15 ATHENS (OA) 12-4-6-- 18:00 19:20
-2345-7 19:50 23:05 ATHENS (OA) -2345-7 17:50 19:10
--3-5-7 21:00 21:50 BANJA LUKA (JU) -2-4-6-- 06:00 06:50
1------ 08:10 12:05 BRUXELLES (JU) 1------ 12:55 15:05
---4--- 12:35 15:00 BRUXELLES (JU) ---4--- 15:50 19:35
-2-4--7 13:20 15:30 COLOGNE (4U) -2-4--7 10:50 12:50
-2-4--7 15:50 18:05 COLOGNE (4U) 18:30 20:30
-2-4-6- 08:05 10:25 COPENHAGEN (JU) -2-4-6- 11:25 13:25
------7 06:30 16:45 COPENHAGEN (JU) ------7 17:35 19:45
1--4--- 20:15 05:55 DUBAI (JU) -2--5-- 07:35 11:55
--345-7 07:05 09:05 FRANKFURT (LH) 12---67 21:45 23:35
---4--- 06:40 08:55 FRANKFURT (LH) -2----- 22:20 00:10
------7 17:00 19:15 FRANKFURT (LH) 123-567 22:15 00:05
1-3---- 14:15 17:45 ISTANBUL (JU) 1-3---- 13:05 14:40
---4-6- 08:00 10:35 ISTANBUL (JU) ---4-6- 19:45 21:20
-2----7 14:20 15:55 ISTANBUL (JU) -2----7 20:00 21:35
1-3-5-7 14:40 17:15 ISTANBUL (TK) --3-5-7 13:05 14:45
--2---- 16:20 19:20 KIEV (VV)- --2---- 12:35 15:30
1----6- 22:05 01:35 LARNAKA (JU) 1----6- 11:30 14:05
1234567 10:30 12:40 LONDON (JU) 1234567 13:30 17:15
1-3-567 13:00 14:55 LONDON (BA) 1-3-567 08:15 12:00
1234--- 08:20 09:40 LJUBLJANA (JU) 1234--- 10:30 11:50
----5--- 15:30 16:50 LJUBLJANA (JU) ----5-- 17:40 19:00
------7 15:50 17:10 LJUBLJANA (JU) ------7 18:00 19:20
1234567 13:05 14:35 MUNICH (LH) 1234567 11:05 12:30
1234567 16:45 18:25 MUNICH (LH) 1234567 19:25 20:50
12345-- 13:05 14:35 MUNICH (lh) 12345-- 11:05 12:30
-2----- 1345 16:40 OSLO (DY) -2----- 10:05 13:05
1234567 09:20 12:00 PARIS (JU) 1234567 13:00 15:20
1234567 12:40 15:10 PARIS (AF) 1234567 09:50 12:20
--3--67 07:55 08:55 PODGORICA (JU) --34--7 09:30 10:30
1234-67 18:40 19:10 PODGORICA (JU) 1234-67 19:25 20:10
1234567 20:55 21:35 PODGORICA (JU) 1234567 06:35 07:20
123---- 08:30 09:15 PODGORICA (YM) 123---- 17:40 18:25
---4567 08:40 09:25 PODGORICA (YM) ---45-- 06:45 07:30
1234567 07:05 07:50 PODGORICA (YM) 1234567 08:20 09:05
1234567 08:50 09:35 PODGORICA (YM) 1234567 17:40 18:25
1234567 11:40 13:40 PRAGUE (OK) 1234567 14:15 16:15
1-345-7 17:20 19:05 ROME (AZ) 1-345-7 14:50 16:30
1234567 20:50 21:40 SARAJEVO (JU) 1234567 06:20 07:05
123456- 21:20 22:30 SKOPJE (JU) 123456- 06:00 07:05
------7 21:35 22:30 SKOPJE (JU) ------7 06:00 06:50
--2---- 08:20 11:05 STOCKHOLM (JU) --2---- 11:55 14:30
----5-7 08:00 10:45 STOCKHOLM (JU) ----5-7 11:35 14:10
-2----- 13:30 15:25 STUTTGART (4U) -2----- 11:15 13:00
---4--- 12:20 14:15 STUTTGART (4U) ---4--- 10:05 11:50
---4--7 18:05 21:55 TEL AVIV (JU) ---4--7 22:50 00:55
1234567 07:40 08:45 TIVAT (JU) 1234567 09:20 10:25
--34567 13:25 14:20 TIVAT (JU) --34567 14:55 16:00
-234567 10:00 10:50 TIVAT (YM) -234567 11:30 12:20
1------ 09:10 10:00 TIVAT (YM) 1------ 07:40 08:30
-2---6- 08:00 09:40 TRIESTE (JU) -2---6- 16:05 17:45
---4--- 10:15 11:50 TRIESTE (JU) ---4--- 18:20 19:55
1234567 08:15 09:50 VIENNA (JU) 1234567 13:25 14:35
1234567 15:20 16:40 VIENNA (JU) 123456- 10:55 12:20
1234567 08:15 09:50 VIENNA (OS) 1234567 13:25 14:35
1234567 16:50 18:25 VIENNA (OS) 1234567 19:20 20:45
-23-5-- 15:20 17:10 ZURICH (JU) 1--4--7 18:00 19:40
----5-7 18:00 19:50 ZURICH (JU) ----6- 09:30 11:10
1234567 14:40 16:35 ZURICH (LX) 1234567 12:20 14:00
SU Aeroflot, VV Aerosvit, AF Air France, AZ Alitalia, OS Austrian, BA British Airways, OK Czech Airlines, 4U Germanwings,
JU JAT Airways, LH Lufthansa, YM Montenegro Airlines, DY Norwegian Air Shuttle, OA Olympic Airlines, LX Swiss, TK
Turkish Airlines. Schedule is subject to change. Belgrade In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to
the times shown here.
Note: Summer flight schedule is valid until the end of October. You can learn more at the Belgrade Airport web site:
www. beg.aero

For more information on JAT flights, please call 0-800-111-528 (toll-free calls from Serbian fixed telephone network),
for calls abroad 311 21 23

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


54 Getting around

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Shopping 55

You may be labouring under the impression that Belgrade Mamut C-2, corner of Sremska and Knez Mihailova, tel.
is a shopper’s paradise, having seen the trendy and chic (+381) 11 263 90 60. Books, monographs and magazines
Belgrade girls, but alas, Belgrade is not as strong in the in Serbian and English, a great range of CDs, a gift-shop.
shopping department as Milan or Paris. Belgrade’s main 4Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
shopping areas are Knez Mihailova, Terazije, Kralja Milana,
and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra streets. Most shops are
open between 10:00 and 20:00. Concept shop
The main supermarkets in the Old Town are Maxi and
Alonso, both located at the corner of Višnjićeva and Supermarket C-1, Corner of Strahinjića Bana and
Gospodar Jevremova streets (C-1). Larger supermarkets Višnjića Streets, tel. (+381) 65380 50 44. An out-of-
can be found in New Belgrade, on Omladinskih Brigada the-ordinary place combining a restaurant, spa centre and
Street, near Airport City (Idea and Rodić) and on Treći Bulevar ‘beauty & fashion’ lounge, where you can purchase hard-to-
Street near Holiday Inn (Super Vero), open 08:00 - 21:00, find and curious home accessories, unique pieces of clothing
Sun 08:00 - 17:00. designed by up-and-coming young fashion designers, skin
care and other beauty produce, wines, Apple computers...
The inside, covering a floor area of 1400m² is reminiscent
If you are seized by a sudden urge to go shopping for of an unfinished hangar, as the walls have an unfinished
oregano, underwear or a TV set at 2 o’clock in the concrete look/texture and there is insulation hanging from
morning, go crazy at Tempo, a huge supermarket in the ceiling. The restaurant serves up light Asian, Italian
New Belgrade, near motorway exits for Novi Sad and and French dishes and the Chef is Sem Veldheer from the
Zagreb, open 24 hours. There are small shops selling Netherlands. Be sure to try pumpkin risotto with salmon and
newspapers, cigarettes, chocolate, spirits and fruit juice beurre blanc sauce. Those who like to overindulge in rich
throughout the city, open 24hrs. desserts will appreciate 'Chocolate Fountain' - candied fruit
and 700 gram chocolate dip. The Spa zone offers traditional,
aromatherapy and high-tech treatments. The Supermarket
Shopping centres prices seem to aim for those who don't think twice about
Delta City Jurija Gagarina 16. Delta City offers a wide splashing out.4Open 10:00 - 24:00.
array of shops, a supermarket, multiplex cinema, bowling
alley, a variety of fast-food outlets and cafés. 4Open 09:00
- 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
Mercator A-1, Bulevar Umetnosti 4. Ver y popular
shopping centre housing a self service restaurant, children’s
playroom, supermarket, cafés, a post office and a bank open
on Sundays. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.
New Millennium C-2 Knez Mihajlova 19-21. Small and
cosy, featuring a charming range of boutiques and shoe
shops, this shopping centre provides hours of entertainment
to anyone who thinks of shopping as a favourite pastime.
4Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Piramida Jurija Gagarina 151. Local shopping centre
packed with small boutiques selling clothes, shoes and
home accessories. Popular with locals, it offers a casual
atmosphere, moderate prices, and proximity to a green
market. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Sava Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9. Spacious foyers
and passageways between conference halls feature a range Flowers
of chic boutiques specialising in clothes and shoes. 4Open Teleflora C-2, Svetogorska 11, tel. (+381) 11 303 00
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. 48. Flower delivery to 185 countries worldwide. 4Open:
Ušće shopping center B-2, blok 16, w w w. 10:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
usceshoppingcenter.com. The biggest shopping centre in
the heart of Belgrade. 160 shops, cinema, casino, bowling,
wellness centre, 6 cafes and 10 restaurants on 130.000 Gifts & Souvenirs
m2. 4Open 10:00 – 22:00. Adoré C-2, New Millennium Shopping Centre, entrance
from Knez Mihailova 21, tel. (+381) 11 262 50 56. The
Antiques finest chocolate treats in the Balkans. An absolute must for
Ambijenta C-2, Nikole Spasića 2, tel. (+381) 11 262 chocoholics! Also at Delta City. 100g - 350 dinars. 4Open
45 61. 4Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.
Nosorog C-2, Cara Uroša 12, tel. (+381) 11 262 79 Beoizlog C-2, Knez Mihajlova 6, tel. (+381) 11 263
94. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00 17 21. Beograde souvenirs: books, T-shirts, calendars, old
photos, stationary with Belgrade themes. 4Open 09:00 -
21:00, Closed Sun.
Bookshops Singidunum C-2, Terazije 42, tel. (+381) 11 264
Apropo C-2, Cara Lazara 10, tel. (+381) 11 262 58 31 58. The largest selection of rakija (traditional Serbian
39. Wonderful little bookshop-cum-tea room filled with brandy), wines, and local delicacies. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00,
books in Serbian and English. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat Closed Sun.
10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. Zdravo-Živo C-2, Nušićeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 324 73
IPS-Akademija C-2, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. (+381) 74. A widearray of items belonging to Serbian folk culture
11 263 65 14. A large selection of books, monographs, (traditional caps and footwear, embroidered blouses,
dictionaries and comic books in Serbian and English. 4Open woollen socks), pipes, traditional kitchen accessories, kilims
09:00 - 23:00. etc. 4Open 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


56 Shopping

Markets
Teeming with people and colours, green markets offer
fresh fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, scrumptious
meat and dairy products, pickles, honey, herbs and
more. Officially open 06:00 - 19:00, but you will be wise
to observe the times below, as farmers selling their own
goods are eager to go home earlier.
Bajlonijeva Pijaca C-2, Džordža Vašingtona bb,
tel. (+381) 11 322 34 72. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00
Blok 44 Jurija Gagarina bb, tel. (+381) 11 215 82
32. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00
Kalenić Pijaca D-3, Maksima Gorkog bb, tel.
(+381) 11 245 03 50. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00
Zeleni venac C-2, Jug Bogdanova bb, tel. 262 93
28. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00

Www.serbiasouvenirs.com. The biggest online


souvenir shop with a wide range of original, handmade folk-
art products and souvenirs from all over Serbia. They offer
a wide range of products including books, travel guides,
games, clothing, classical souvenirs and more. The website
is currently only available in Serbian.

Tobacco & Drinks


Julieta C-2, Đure Jakšića 11, tel. (+381) 11 263 76
90. Cuban cigars, whiskey, dark chocolate, fine wines and
champagne. 4Open 09:30 - 23:00, Closed Sun.
La Casa del Habano C-3, Kneginje Zorke 2, tel.
(+381) 11 383 05 33, www.julieta.biz. The place to
enjoy Cuban cigars. Classy decor and one of 10 largest
walk in humidors in Europe with a comprehensive range of
the finest cigars and whiskey. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
13:00 - 23:00.
Royal enoteca B-2, Karađorđeva 3, (+381) 11 262
39 69. Excellent selection of wines. 4Open 16:00 – 24:00,
Sun closed.
Tvrđava C-2, corner of Cetinjska and Hilandarska.
Cigarettes, sweets, juices and spirits. 4Open 00:00 - 24:00.
Wine Bar C-2, Dositejeva 13, tel. (+381) 11 262 62
67. Excellent selection of wines. Taste wines on offer at retail
prices. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sun closed.
Wonderland C-3, Svetog Save 25, tel. (+381) 64 640
22 20. Wines, spirits and a fine assortment of sweets.
4Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun closed.

www.inyourpocket.com

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Business directory 57

Banca Intesa B-2, Milentija Popovića 7b, tel. (+381)


Business essentials 11 310 88 88
BNP Paribas C-2, (Representative Office), Obilićev
(data for Serbia in 2009) venac 22, tel. (+381) 11 328 48 60
GDP per capita: $10,540 Citibank N.A. A-2, (Representative Office), Bulevar
Average wage: €425 (Belgrade), €340 (Serbia) Zorana Đinđića 64a/IV, tel. (+381) 11 220 93 00
Annual inflation rate: 10.1% Commerzbank AG B-2, (Representative Office),
The standard VAT rate: 18% Vladimira Popovića 6 (Genex Apartments), tel. (+381)
The lower VAT rate: 8% 11 301 85 20
Corporate Profit Tax Rate: 10% (lowest in Europe) Deutsche Bank C -2, (Representative Of fice),
Personal income tax rate on wages: 12% Balkanska 2, tel. (+381) 11 205 50 50
Other personal income tax rate: 20% Eurobank EFG C-2, Kolarčeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 333
Annual Income Tax: 10% (for income exceeding the 23 11
amount of 3 and 5 times the national average wage for Erste Bank C-2, Kralja Petra 45, tel. (+381) 11 262
Serbian and non-Serbian citizens respectively) and 15% 33 32
(for income 8 times above the national average wage for Findomestic banka C-2, Kosovska 10, tel. (+381)
non-Serbian citizens) 11 333 17 17
Rates for mandatory social security contributions: Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina
17.9% 6, tel. (+381) 11 222 60 00
Unemployment rate: 13% Komercijalna banka C-3, Svetog Save 14, tel. (+381)
Serbia has free trade agreements with Russia and the 11 308 01 00
countries of South East Europe (CEFTA). Marfin Bank D-2, Dalmatinska 22, tel. (+381) 11
330 63 00
Meridian Bank- Credit Agricole Group C -2,
Accounting & Auditing Kolarčeva 7-10, tel. (+381) 11 330 58 76
BDO BC Excell C-2, Knez Mihailova 10, tel. (+381) National Bank of Greece A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina
11 328 12 99 113, tel. (+381) 11 301 99 00
ConsulTeam C-3, Prote Mateje 52, tel. (+381) 11 NLB LHB Banka A-1, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 165v,
308 61 80 tel. (+381) 11 222 51 00
Deloitte C-2, Kralja Milana 16, tel. (+381) 11 361 OTP Bank A-2, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 117, tel. (+381)
25 24 11 213 86 89
Ernst & Young A-1, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 115d, tel. Piraeus Bank C-2, Kolarčeva 1, tel. (+381) 11 302
(+381) 11 209 57 00 40 00
KPMG C-2, Studentski trg 4, tel. (+381) 11 328 28 ProCredit Bank D-2, Bulevar despota Stefana 68c,
92 tel. (+381) 11 207 79 06
Pricewater house Coopers Omladinskih brigada Raiffeisen Bank C-2, Terazije 27, tel. (+381) 11
88a, tel. (+381) 11 330 21 00 320 21 00
SEECAP C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 22, tel. (+381) 11 Societe Generale A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 50a,
328 31 00 tel. (+381) 11 301 15 15
Unicredit Bank C-2, Rajićeva 27-29, tel. (+381) 11
320 45 00
Advertising agencies Volksbank A-1, Bul. Mihajla Pupina 165g, tel. (+381)
BGinfo Box D-3, Živojina Žujovića 24, tel. (+381) 11 201 32 00
11 383 00 50
Communis Ljutice Bogdana 1a, tel. (+381) 11 363
67 00 Business connections
Digital Creation D-3, Živojina Žujovića 24, tel. (+381) Belgrade Stock Exchange A-1, Omladinskih brigada
11 382 20 22 1, tel. (+381) 11 311 72 97, www.belex.rs.
New Moment C-2, Hilandarska 14, tel. (+381) 11 Business Registration Agency C-2, Trg Nikole
322 99 92 Pašića 5, tel. (+381) 11 333 14 00, www.apr.gov.rs
Synergy Leo Burnett Miloja Đaka 22, tel. (+381)
11 367 41 06
Getting working papers
Banks Internationals planning to work in Serbia are required
Alpha Bank C-2, Kralja Milana 11, tel. (+381) 11 to obtain a Temporary Residence Permit. To get one,
323 49 31 you need to submit an application to the Police Office in
the territory of residence. The documentation required
for granting this permit depends on the reasons for
requesting the permit (employment, education, sport etc.)
and typically includes a valid passport, 2 photographs,
evidence of means of support (such as bank statement
attesting to availability of funds), employment contract,
explanatory letter re: the need for employment written by
the company, or decision on registration of the company
(if you are owner or representative of a company). It
normally takes about a week to process the application.
Belgrade City Police (Department for Foreigners), Savska
35 (B-3), tel. (+381) 11 361 89 56.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


58 Business directory

Chamber of Commerce of Belgrade C-2, Kneza Lawyers


Miloša 12, tel. (+381) 11 264 13 55, www.kombeg. Harrison Solicitors C-2, Terazije 34, tel. (+381) 11
org.rs 361 59 18
Ministry of Economy and Regional Development Law Office C-2, Takovska 13, (+381) 11 322 71 33,
C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 15, tel. (+381) 11 361 (063)38 31 16, www.businesslawserbia.com. Lawyers
75 83, www.merr.gov.rs and legal consultants provide a full range of corporate,
Ministry of Trade and Services C-3, Nemanjina company, legal services, serving both local and multinational
22-26, tel. (+381) 11 361 05 79 companies, especially: registration, privatization, mergers
Privatization Agency C-2, Terazije 23, tel. (+381) & acquisitions, foreign investments, real-estate, litigations,
11 302 08 00, www.priv.rs banking, finance & tax advisory.
Serbian Chamber of Commerce and Industry Tomić-Stević-Dulić C-2, Carice Milice 3/II, tel.
C-2, Resavska 13-15, tel. (+381) 11 330 09 00, pks. (+381) 11 328 52 27. Their practice areas include
komora.net corporate law, commercial law, foreign investment, mergers
SIEPA - Investment and Export Promotion and acquisitions, franchising, tax law, administrative law,
Agency C-2, Vlajkovićeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 339 intellectual property, unfair competition, privatization,
85 50 insolvency, corporate restructuring, employment law,
pension funds, real estate, construction litigation.

Business facilities
Airport City Omladinskih brigada 88, tel. (+381) 11 Office Furniture
209 05 25, www.airportcitybelgrade.com Eurosalon B-3, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 12, tel. (+381)
Belgrade Fair B-3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 11 206 75 00
(+381) 11 265 55 10, www.sajam.co.rs Office1Superstore C-3, Sarajevska 1, tel. 346 06 00
EXPO XXI - Expocentre A-2, Španskih boraca 74a,
tel. (+381) 11 328 40 74, www.expoxxi.rs
Sava Congress Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9, Real estate
tel. (+381) 11 220 60 00, www.savacentar.com ApartmentsApart belgrade@bookaa.net, www.
Ušće Business Centre B-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina apartmentsapart.com
6, tel. (+381) 11 220 02 00 BeoRent (064)542 18 12, www.beorent.com
Eurodiplomatic D-3, Dravska 18, tel. 308 68 78
Mentor D-3, Mileševska 2, tel. 308 90 80, www.
Consulting mentorrent.rs
CES Mecon Danijelova 12-16, tel. (+381) 11 309 08 Slavija rent C-2, Beogradska 33, 334 12 81
00, www.cesmecon.com
Dekleva & Partners Ltd. C-2, Hilandarska 23,
tel. (+381) 11 303 36 49, www.dekleva1.com. All Translators
services are offered in English, Russian, German, Greek Association of Technical and Scientific Translators
and Serbian languages. of Serbia D-3, Kičevska 9, tel. 244 27 29
EKI Investment C-2, Kralja Milana 16, tel. (+381) Belgrade Translation Center C-1, Dobračina 50,
11 361 31 64, www.eki-investment.com tel. 328 73 88
Center Lomonosov C-2, Hilandarska 23, tel. 334 31
84. www.centarlomonosov.com
Executive search/Recruitment
HD European Consulting Group C-2, Andrićev venac
8, tel. (+381) 11 324 78 96, www.hd-ecg.com

Foreign representations
American Chamber of Commerce C-2, Vlajkovićeva
30, tel. (+381) 11 334 59 61, www.amcham.rs
Council of Europe D-3, Sinđelićeva 9, tel. (+381)
11 308 84 11
European Agency for Reconstruction C-2, Vasina
2-4, tel. 302 34 00
Foreign Investors Council C-2, Svetogorska 37,
tel. (+381) 11 303 55 50, www.fic.org.rs
Usce Shoping Centre

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


Lifestyle directory 59

Algeria Smetanina 12, tel. (+381) 11 367 12 11


Children Argentina C-2, Knez Mihailova 24, tel. (+381) 11 262
25 41
The most popular place for children in Belgrade is the Australia B-2, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, tel. (+381)
Zoo, nestled against the Belgrade fortress (C-1). The Zoo, 11 330 34 00
founded in 1936, is also called ‘Good Hope Garden’. Its Austria B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. (+381) 11
stars include the only white buffalo in Europe, a couple of 333 65 00
white lions and a white wallaby. Children adore the Baby Belarus C-3, Deligradska 13, tel. (+381) 11 361 69 38
Zoo, home to the cubs born in the zoo.Admission is 350 Belgium C-2, Krunska 18, tel. (+381) 11 323 00 18
din for adults and 250 din for children aged 3-15.4Open Bosnia and Herzegovina C-3, Krunska 9, tel. (+381)
08:00 - 20:00, in winter 08:00 - 17:00 11 324 11 70
Brazil C-2, Krunska 14, tel. (+381) 11 323 97 81
Baby sitting Bolivia Slobodana Jovanovića 23/12, tel. (+381) 11
Dadilja C-2, Nušićeva 6, tel. (+381) 11 324 14 80 275 78 19
Ballet classes Bulgaria C-3, Birčaninova 26, tel. (+381) 11 361 39 80
Orhestra Ballet Studio D-3, Ćirila i Metodija 2a, Canada C-3, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. (+381) 11 306 30 00
tel. (+381) 11 240 34 43
Czech Republic C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 22, tel.
(+381) 11 323 01 33
Best ice cream in town Chile D-3, Tomaša Ježa 16-20/12,
China Perside Milenković 9, tel. (+381) 11 369 31 63
Pelivan C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 20, tel.
(+381) 11 323 16 79 Congo C-3, Moravska 5, tel. (+381) 11 344 64 31
Croatia C-3, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. (+381) 11 361 05 35
Children’s playrooms Cuba Vukovarska 3, tel. (+381) 11 369 24 41
Cyprus Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. (+381) 11 362
Extreme Kids D-2, Cvijićeva 1, tel. (+381) 11
276 43 35 00 02
Denmark Neznanog Junaka 9a, tel. (+381) 11 367 95 00
Horse riding Ecuador C-3, Graničarska 8/III, tel. (+381) 11 344
Aleksa Dundić Riding Club Belgrade 01 35
Hippodrome, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. (+381) 11 354 Egypt Andre Nikolića 12, tel. (+381) 11 265 05 85
15 84 Finland C-3, Birčaninova 29, tel. (+381) 11 306 54 00
France B-2, Pariska 11, tel. (+381) 11 302 35 00
International schools Germany C-3, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. (+381) 11 306
Anglo-American School Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 43 00
(+381) 11 367 57 77 Greece C-2, Francuska 33, tel. (+381) 11 322 65 23
Britannica International School Užička 21a, tel. Great Britain C-3, Resavska 46, tel. (+381) 11 264
(+381) 11 367 15 57 50 55
British International School Svetozara Radojčića Holland C-2, Simina 29, tel. 202 39 00
4, tel. (+381) 11 346 70 00 Hungary C-3, Krunska 72, tel. (+381) 11 244 04 72
Ecole Francaise de Belgrade B-3, Kablarska 35, India Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel. (+381) 11 266 41 27
tel. (+381) 11 369 17 62 Indonesia Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18,
Deutsche Schule Belgrad B-3, Sanje Živanović tel. (+381) 11 367 40 62
10, tel. (+381) 11 369 31 35 Iran Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. (+381) 11 367 43 60
International Nursery School Nake Spasić 4, tel. Italia C-3, Birčaninova 11, tel. (+381) 11 306 61 00
(+381) 11 266 71 30 Israel Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47,
International School of Belgrade Temišvarska tel. (+381) 11 364 35 00
19, tel. (+381) 11 206 99 99 Japan B-2, Vladimira Popovića 6, tel. (+381) 11 301
28 00
Kindergartens Macedonia C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. (+381)
Sunašce C-2, Admirala Geprata 8a ulaz 5/1, 11 328 49 24
tel. (+381) 11 361 70 13. Day care for pre-school Mexico Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. (+381) 11 367 41 70
children. Monte negro Užička 1, tel. (+381) 11 266 23 00
Marry Poppins C-3, Kursulina 37, tel. (+381) 11 Norway Užička 43, tel. (+381) 11 367 04 04
243 30 59. Day care for school-age children. Palestine Maglajska 14, tel. (+381) 11 367 14 07
Poland C-2, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. (+381) 11 206 53 01
Real Aikido Portugal Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. (+381) 11 266
Real Aikido World Centre D-3, Slavujev venac 1, 28 95
tel. (+381) 11 308 91 99 Romania C-3, Užiča 10, tel. (+381) 11 367 57 72
Russia C-3, Deligradska 32, Katićeva 8-10, tel. (+381)
Swimming school for children 11 361 13 23
City Centre for Physical Education C-3, Deligrad- Slovakia A-2, Bulevar Umetnosti 18, tel. (+381) 11
ska 27, tel. (+381) 11 265 87 47 222 38 00
Slovenia C-1, Pariska 15, tel. (+381) 11 303 84 77
Spain C-3, Prote Mateje 45, tel. (+381) 11 344 02 31
Dry cleaners Sweden Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. (+381) 11 206 92 00
Pop’s, Mercator Shopping Centre A-1, Bulevar Switzerland C-3, Birčaninova 27, tel. (+381) 11 306
Umetnosti 4, tel. (+381) 11 313 02 51 58 20
Tunisia B-3, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. (+381) 11 369 19 61
Foreign representations Turkey C-2, Krunska 1, tel. (+381) 11 333 24 00
Albania Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25a, tel. USA C-3, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. (+381) 11 361 93 44
(+381) 11 306 66 42 Vatican C-3, Svetog Save 24, tel. (+381) 11 308 53 56

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


60 Lifestyle directory
Hairdressers
Šobota C-2, Zmaj Jovina 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 62 95 Health
Clinics & Hospitals
Key cuts Ambulance (on duty 24 hours) C-3, Bulevar Franše
Elezović D-3, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 144, tel. D’Eperea 5, tel. 94
(+381) 11 245 27 25. If you lock yourself out late at night Emergency Centre (on duty 24 hours) C-3,
call tel. (+381) 64 641 43 65 Pasterova 2, tel: (+381) 11 361 84 44

Medical institutions on duty


Launderettes Bežanijska Kosa General Hospital Bežanijska
Kosa bb, tel. (+381) 11 260 13 22
Bianca Dušana Vukasovića 82, tel. (+381) 65 888
24 24 Clinical Centre of Serbia C-3, Pasterova 2, tel.
tel (+381) 11 361 77 77
Dr Dragiša Mišović General Hospital Heroja
Libraries Milana Tepića 1, tel. (+381) 11 363 07 00
Military Medical Academy Crnotravska 17, tel.
City of Belgrade Library C-1, Knez Mihailova 56, tel.
(+381) 11 202 40 00, www.bgb.org.rs (+381) 11 266 11 22
National Library of Serbia C-3, Skerlićeva 1, tel. Zvezdara General Hospital Dimitrija Tucovića
(+381) 11 245 12 42, www.nb.rs 161, tel. (+381) 11 381 02 00
Svetozar Marković University Library D-3, Bulevar
Kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. (+381) 11 337 05 13, www. Private practices
unilib.bg.ac.rs Anlave CD Vase Pelagića 68, tel. (+381) 11 317
59 29, www.anlave.co.yu
Bel Medic General Hospital Koste Jovanovica 87,
Money transfer tel. (+381) 11 309 10 00, www.belmedic.com
Western Union C-2, Kosovska 1, tel. (+381) 11 330
03 00. Money transfers from abroad can be collected from
Dentists (on duty 24 hours)
Stari Grad Obilićev Venac 30, tel. (+381) 11
most banks in Belgrade, in EUR only. 263 52 36
Vračar Kneginje Zorke 15, tel. (+381) 11 244
Opticians 14 13
Diopta C-2, Kralja Milana 4, tel. (+381) 11 268 75 39
La Gatta C-2, Cara Lazara 15, tel. (+381) 11 263
Pharmacies (on duty 24 hours)
Aqua Pharm 2 C-3, Corner of Kneza Miloša and
10 34 Višegradska Streets, tel. (+381) 11 361 01 71.
Bogdan Vujošević A-1, Goce Delčeva 30, tel.
(+381) 11260 18 87
Prvi Maj C-2, Kralja Milana 9, tel. (+381) 11 324
13 49
Sveti Sava C-2, Nemanjina 2, tel. (+381) 11
264 31 70
Zemun Glavna 34, tel. 261 85 82

Pets
Pet Centar A-2, Bulevar Milutina Milankovića 1v
(Treći bulevar), tel. (+381) 11 212 33 05, www.pet-
centar.rs.

Photo service
Beo Digital C-3, Nemanjina 40, tel. 365 00 18

Shoe repair
Saša M C-2, Kosovska 35, tel. 322 72 38

Spa & Beauty Salons


Club Olympus Fitness & Spa Center Milentija
Popovica 5 ,tel.301 1171. massage, body treatments,
facials, spa, swimming pool, manicure, pedicure, sauna,
whirlpool, waxing
Olimas C-1, Strahinjića Bana 64/3, tel. 218 07 92.
Massage, body treatments.
Jai Thai B-3, Vase Pelagića 48, tel. (+381) 369
91 93. Thai massage, body treatments, herbal baths,
restaurant.
Spa Centar C-1, Strahinjića Bana 5, tel. 328 54 08.
Hydro massage, massage, steam baths, beauty parlour.

Belgrade In Your Pocket  belgrade.inyourpocket.com


sports 61

Ada Ciganlija Golf


Golf Klub Beograd A-3, Ada Ciganlija, tel. (+381)
11 305 68 37, www.golfclub.co.rs. A nine-hole golf
An islet in the Sava River (A3), it is the most popular course, lessons and equipment hire available, A café to.
swimming venue and outdoor recreational area in 4Open 08:00 - 22:00
Belgrade. The tips of the islet are connected to the
mainland with embankments, creating an artificial lake
4.2km long, with an average width of 200m and the Karting
depth of 4-6m, dubbed somewhat overenthusiastically Autokomerc Karting Centar 1. Ulica 84c, tel.
as 'the Sea of Belgrade'. Both sides of the lake feature (+381) 11 316 90 29, www.kart.rs. An outdoor circuit
fine pebble beaches, dotted with cafés, restaurants and alongside the motorway close to the airport. Its 803m long
numerous sports venues. There is also a designated and 8m wide track with 18 curves boasts a CIK FIA C circuit
picnic area. The swimming season (when a lifeguard licence. Open from March to October, every day except
service operates from 10:00 to 19:00) is open from 15 Monday. The circuit is floodlit and night karting is available.
June to end September. The water is warm and clean, The Center offers a kart school, and there is also a track
but also rather muddy, so you can't see much when you for children aged 5 to 8.4Open 10:00 - 22:00
dive. In addition to water sports (swimming, kayaking,
rowing, windsurfing, water skiing, fishing) Ada Ciganlija
offers a great number of free venues for football, Paintball
basketball and handball - you need only bring a ball and Paintball Club Arena No 1 tel. (+381) 11 063 779
some friends - plus there is a trim trail, biking and roller- 67 96. Outdoor and indoor facilities. One hour of paintball
skating paths, facilities for table tennis, tennis, bowling, + equipment is 820 dinars.
artificial rock climbing, a bungee jumping platform
(55m high), a nine-hole golf course, mini golf, rugby,
field hockey, paintball, aqua football facilities, artificial
alpine skiing and snowboarding slopes, skateboarding
Shooting range
Sportski Centar Kovilovo Zrenjaninski put 170
ramps, adventure park, and more. Aside from the copious (12km from the city centre), tel. 207 52 00. First-class
amount sports facilities, there is also a children's theatre shooting ranges for Skeet, Trap and Double Trap events and
and several of the city's more popular splavovi, or floating one sporting compact shooting range specially designed for
houseboat clubs. huntsmen. Shooting lessons, dog boxes, swimming pool,
sauna, massage, restaurant.

Squash Courts
Squashland Pionirski grad in Košutnjak, tel. (+381)
11 305 58 07. Two courts, café. Price per session (45
mins): 600 dinars before 15h, 990 dinars after 15h and
on weekends. Racket hire: 170 dinars. 4Open 08:00 -
24:00.

Swimming Pools
Swimming pools offer swimming schools for children and
adults. In addition to changing rooms and shower facilities,
the amenities usually include a sauna, massage parlour,
weight room, solarium... Swimming cap not obligatory.
Bowling Banjica Crnotravska 4, tel. (+381) 11 266 87 00.
Colosseum Dobanovačka 56 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 Indoor swimming pool. 4Open 10:00 - 19:00 (from July
316 54 03. 10 lanes, billiards, Sony PlayStation consoles, 15). Admission 200-280 dinars.
electronic darts, café, restaurant. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00, SC Vračar D-3 Sjenička 1, tel. (+381) 11 245 23
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. 42. 4Open 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00
First bowling Gradski Park u Zemunu, tel. (+381) - 15:00. Admission 350 dinars.
11 377 16 12. 7 lanes, café. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat Tašmajdan C-2, Beogradska 71, tel. (+381) 11 324
11:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 09 01. Indoor swimming pool. 4Open 16:00 - 18:00.
Kolosej Jurija Gagarina 16 (Delta City), tel. (+381) Admission 300 dinars.
11 312 99 44. 14 lanes, billiards, laser tag arena, video
arcades, café. 4Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Tennis Courts
11. April near university halls of residence in New
Belgrade, tel. (+381) 11 267 29 39. Three outdoor
Cycling red-clay courts and one indoor court situated in an
There are no bicycle paths in the Old Town, but you can enjoy empty swimming pool (the place of Ana Ivanović’s early
a ride on a bicycle route along the river, from Dorćol to Ada training).
Ciganlija. There are bicycle services in Dorćol, near Belgrade Gemax Veljka Lukića Kurjaka bb, tel. (+381) 11
Fair, and at Ada Ciganlija. Good routes for riding a bike include 306 18 13. Exclusive tennis club, 4 indoor and 4 outdoor
those along the Sava on the New Belgrade side of the river, courts, fitness centre, swimming pool, sauna, sports shop,
along Zemun Quay and at Ada Ciganlija. Riding a bike in restaurant. For members and their guests only.
Košutnjak and Topčider areas is not recommended because Sa&Ni D-2, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel. 276 68 47. Four red-
of steep hills and narrow traffic lines used by cars. clay courts, school of tennis, café.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


BELGRADE TOP 10
Index 63

? 46 Lav 26 The Three Carrots 42 Kneza Sime Markovića B-2


25th of May Museum 48 Le Petit Piaf 23 The Tube 44 Kneginje Zorke C-3
Absinthe 32 Life Design 23 Three Black Cats 31 Kolarčeva C-2
Akademija 42 Lime cafe 40 Tis 31 Kosančićev venac B-2
Amarone Wine Bar 41 Little Bay 33 Topčider Park 48 Kosovska C-2
Amphora 40 Loki 39 Townhouse 27 25 Kralja Milana C-3
Amsterdam 40 Loža 34 Tramvaj 44 Kralja Milutina C-3
Apollo 011 29 Madera 34 Travelling Actor 28 Kraljice Natalije C-2
ArkaBarka 29 Maharaja 33 Trim 27 Kraljice Marije D-2
AUR-Klub svetskih putnika 41 Majestic 24 Villa Belvedere 28 Kralja Petra I C-1
Balkan 21 Majik 32 Villa Forest 28 Krunska C-2
Balkan Hotel Garni 22 Mama’s Biscuit House 40 Villa Kalemegdan 28 Mačvanska C-3
Balzac 33 Manga 31 Villa Marija 29 Majke Jevrosime C-2
Baryakli Mosque 47 Manjež 38 Villa Nevenka 29 Makedonska C-2
Belgrade Fair 18 Marshall pub 41 Vila Manjež 28 Maksima Gorkog D-3
Beli Grad 29 McDonald’s 39 Villa Zemun 29 Maršala Birjuzova C-2
Belgrade Fortress 45 Mercator 55 Yachting Club Kej 31 Masarikova C-2
Best Western M 22 Mercedes bar 42 Yugoslav Film Archive 49 Mije Kovačevića D-2
Best Western Šumadija 22 Metropolitan grill 34 Zaplet 32 Milentija Popovića A-2
Bevanda 36 Milagro 39 Zlatnik 21 Mileševska D-3
Bg City hotel 26 Millennium Tower 46 Zira 25 Milovana Milovanovića C-2
Bitef Art café 42 Military Museum 49 Zorba 33 Milutina Bojića C-2
Bizzare 41 Moskva 24 Žabar 35 Nebojšina C-3
Blaywatch 42 Mr. President 24 Whatever@the corner 34 Nemanjina C-3
Bristol 26 Museum of Automobiles 49 Nikole Spasića C-2
Brodić 42 Museum of Aviation 49 Nušićeva C-2
Burito bar
Byblos
36
36
Mythologia
N
34
27 Street register Obilićev venac
Omladinskih brigada
C-2
A-1
Cantina de Frida 39 Nacos 36 Palmira Toljatija A-1
Casa Nova 35 New Cemetery 47 27. marta D-2 Palmotićeva C-2
Cathedral Church 47 Nikola Tesla Airport 52 Admirala Geprata C-2 Pariska C-1
Centar 30 Nikola Tesla Museum 49 Akademski plato C-2 Požarevačka D-3
Central Bus Station 52 Ona a ne neka druga 43 Balkanska C-2 Prizrenska C-2
Central Railway Station 51 Opera 34 Beogradska C-2 Proleterske Solidarnosti A-2
Central Station 30 Orašac 26 Birčaninova C-3 Rajićeva C-2
Chilton 30 Ottimo 35 Brodarska B-2 Resavska C-3
City Center 30 Palace 24 Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića A-2 Ruzveltova D-2
City Code 27 Park 26 Bulevar Despota Stefana C-2 Sarajevska C-3
Continental 22 Paša 36 Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra C-2 Savska B-3
Cricket 30 Pekara Toma 39 Bulevar Mihajla Pupina A-1 Savski trg C-3
Crossroad 30 Peking 32 Bulevar Nikole Tesle A-1 Skadarska C-2
Cruise 41 Pietro dell Oro 35 Bulevar Oslobođenja C-3 Skerlićeva C-3
Čobanov odmor 39 Plastic 44 Bulevar umetnosti A-1 Skver Mire Trailović C-2
Bulevar vojvode Mišića B-3
Čubura 37 Plato 42 Slavujev venac D-2
Bulevar Zorana Đinđića A-2
Dačo 37 Pizza Hut 36 Cara Dušana C-1 Strahinjića Bana C-1
Delta City 55 Pomodoro 36 Cara Lazara C-2 Studentski trg C-2
Diva 32 Pošta 27 Cara Uroša C-1 Svetog Save C-3
Elegance 26 Povetarac 44 Carice Milice C-2 Svetogorska C-2
Emergency Centre 60 Prag 27 Carigradska D-2 Svetozara Markovića C-3
Ethnographic Museum 48 President 21 Cetinjska C-2 Svetozara Radića B-2
Excelsior 23 Proleće 38 Cvijićeva D-2 Šantićeva C-2
Evropa 23 Rakia bar 42 Čarli Čaplina D-2 Španskih boraca A-2
Favela 40 Reka 44 Čika Ljubina C-2 Tadeuša Košćuška C-1
Franš 33 Rex 26 Dalmatinska D-2 Takovska C-2
Galerija 40 Rezime Crown 28 Dečanska C-2 Terazije C-2
Grand Casino 44 Rezime Residence 28 Deligradska C-3 Topličin venac C-2
Grand pleasure 40 Royal 27 Dobračina C-2 Trg Nikole Pašića C-2
Dositejeva C-2
Greenet 40 Royal compound 46 Trg Republike C-2
Dragoslava Jovanovića C-2
Guli 36 Salaš 38 Džordža Vašingtona C-2 Trg Slavija C-3
Havana 43 Sava Centre 55 Đure Daničića C-2 Trnska D-3
Holiday Inn 23 Skadarlija 45 Đušina D-2 Ušće B-2
Hyatt Regency 21 Skala 26 Goce Delčeva A-1 Uzun Mirkova C-1
Ikki Sushi Bar 35 Slavija Lux 25 Gospodar Jevremova C-1 Vasina (Vase Čarapića) C-2
In 23 Slodes 26 Gospodar Jovanova C-1 Venizelosova D-2
Ipanema 35 Srbija 26 Hilandarska C-2 Višnjićeva C-1
Jasmin Hostel 31 Srpska kafana 38 Jurija Gagarina A-3 Vladimira Popovića B-2
Jewish Cemetery 46 St. Mark’s Church 47 Kalenićeva D-3 Vlajkovićeva C-2
Jewish Historical Museum 46 St. Petka’s Chapel 47 Karađorđeva C-2 Vojvode Šupljikca D-3
Jevrem 37 St. Sava Temple 47 Katanićeva C-3 Vuka Karadžića C-2
Jevremovac Botanic Garden 47 Stara Carinarnica 38 Kej oslobođenja A-1 Zeleni venac C-2
Kalemegdanska terasa 33 Stara Hercegovina 38 Knez Mihailova C-2 Zmaj Jovina C-2
Kalenić Pijaca 45 Synagogue 46 Kneza Miloša C-3 Železnička B-2
Kandahar 40 Sweet caffe 40
Kasina 25 Tabor 38
Košutnjak 47 Taš 27 www.inyourpocket.com
belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010
ZEMUN

Kej
Os
GREAT

lob
WAR ISLAND

ođe
nja

D
an
ub
Belgrade Fortress

e Kalemegdan
Park

Pas
Bel enger
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ort
NEW BELGRADE
Bu Branko’s Bridge
lev
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Zo
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Belgrade aĐ
Arena inđ
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Old Sava
Bridge

Sava centre

Ga
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Br
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Ol
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N
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ilw

R
ay

ai
lw
Br

ay
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B
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Belgrade Fair

Ada Ciganlija
Best
Western
Šumadija
Belgrade

Dan
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e
Bridg
vački
Panče
Belgrade
Port
Zoo
I

OLD TOWN
e
ic
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Lj

Studentski
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Kolarac Šantić
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V trg eva
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Kn

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Sp ra
o le pi
k ća
br
in Ni (V
a as
in
a a)
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Z.
va

Pionir
Kolarče

Botanical Sports Hall


a
ev Garden
šić
Nu
Zeleni venac
market

Dom
sindikata
Ter
a

Parliament
zije

27
.m
ar
ta

Tašmajdan
Park
New Cemetery
M

ov e

sim nk
as

Bu
ak sa
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lev
iko

M De

Sla
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SKC ar vu
Kr jev
alj ve
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Manjež
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Park nd
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Zork
Grdosla
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lobođenja

ginje
Kne
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Kalenić’s
market
Bulevar os

St. Sava
Temple

D
rta
Vajfe
a
Đorđ
Novi Sad, Subotica Kovilovo
66

Zagreb, Sremska Mitrovica


Gardoš

Belgrade In Your Pocket 


Great
War Island
&
Dorćol %"/6#
Nikola Tesla
Airport Old town
NEW BELGRADE
Karaburma
Bežanijska
kosa
Vračar
St. Stevan
BELGRADE
Konjarnik

7"
Voždovac

4"
Dedinje
Topčider
%"

Park
/6

Banovo
d brdo
#&

oo
k aW
jčins
Bo Rakovica Jajinci
Monastery Memorial Park

Mt. Avala
Belgrade

Unknown Hero
Monument

belgrade.inyourpocket.com
Lipovička Wood
67

Serbia

belgrade.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010


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