Quick Getaway flew into Kolhapur and from there sped and lurched down a shady avenue of overhanging banyan trees, past lush sugarcane fields anda clutch of sugar processing factories where the sweet robust aroma of molasses wasa welcome assault. We ‘were heading for Panhala, 20 km away, turesque hill resort, which ‘combines both history and gives one the opportunity to tune out froma noisy world Small and compact, spread overan area of 1.58 sq km, Panhala dashes of one’s preconceived notions ofa hill resort. There are no overtly glitzy hotels, discotheques or shops ll considered to be a part and parcel ofa hillstarion holiday. For one thing, Ponhala does nothave asingle structure which is higher than the pire ofa temple; the hotels tend to be clean and functional and the fare available here has that home-cooked flavourand taste, After 5 pm, the place seems to languish ina trance. ‘Thanks to its minuscule dimensions, walking around not likely tobe of fellow travellers nordoes one feel is bliss here. One bothered by the raucous anti compelled te bounce along on a howse for an exerbicant price nor wait ndlessly in a queue to embark on a nandatory boat ride. Growth isr ause of geography and all one: quiet walks in the for, visit temples and relax with nature ~in complete safety On the first evening, we put away along che fort walls, whose ruins twist up and down precipices. About fou and a half miles in ¢ mie ve, the fort lt on one of the ridges of the Sahyadris. Itdates back to 1178— 1209 AD. [efell into th different es~Shilahara, Ya a, Bahamani kingdoms and the Adil Shahis of occupation ade: to the origin (Panhalais the spent more than 500 days barring the tals of Raigad, R Shiver.) Be over four mont night to Vis ood trekking route to Vishalgad from General, neered his escape by a is life, holding down the ene of SidiJoharat a narrow called Pavankhind. jiSexodus, how nthe history of Pankala. Fe death, the Maratha kingdo embroiled in a battle of Shivaji’ two so sambaji and his mother waned on the lefields across the De installed as the Maharajas of Kolhap and that of Rajaram establishing thei domain in S: nd Pune Panhala Forts unique undergroundFrom our vantage point we could see the sweep ofthe sun-burnt land, even asa rigorous chill swept up the ravines and tightened our sinews. We stad ona towering lookout and squinted up at the horizon which was a mityblue. We strolled around the fort, Visited the innermost citadel thar is enclosed by a strong wal, fortified by bastions and slipped through the magni , stopped near the huge granary or ambarkhana into which huge amounts at double-walled ofcom were once poured from symmetrical gapsin the ceiling. We sd the final moments of the assault, the fort's takeoverby the British in 1844 which took placeat the 40-yard-wide breach just 100i away from the Teen Darwaza. Below, che town's roofs glowed with a tawny amber light. Asdarkness shrouded the town, there was a power failure and we had dinner by candlelight. Sleep came easy that velvet night and glorious bird song In fact, many an industrialist and film personality has BOLE built villas here, which openly try to outdo each other’ pleasure grounds Shelteringbehind high walls, they underscore the tranquillity of isolation that their owners probably seek on their weekend jaunts. The bungalows afd holiday homes with sun-dappled p and hammocks exude an airof crisp However, V Shantaram, the noted LEFT Por ‘old lacy film director's residence, has now been converted into a hotel — the hest there isin Panhala. We rested a while in the hotel'sopen-air garden restaurant with a cup of tea and a view of the botanical dens and valley beyond. An. eveningsstroll in the Tabak Van Udyan, a garden developed by the Forest Department, ip a pleasant option. In fact one can stroll around Panhala in EFT. Portrait of an old lady who tencls to her herd of bulfalo atop the plateau BELOW: Devotoos throng the Jyotiba temple at Panhala