o~T BAY S& FL -% ComueteHome How-To Guives HOW-TO BOOKLET #3003 SWITCHES & OUTLETS TOOL & MATERIAL CHECKLIST Screwdriver Wire Strippers Needlenose Pliers Q Utility Knife Q Electrician's Tape Continuity Tester Neon Voltage Tester G Bare or Green-Insulated Copper Wire O Ground Clips iNew Switches and Outlets as Needed Read This Entire How-To Booklet for Specific Tools and Materials Not Noted in the Basics Listed Above. Switches and outlets are essential in modern living. They are not indestructible, though they sometimes seem that way. When you must replace one or the other, the task is fairly simple, Always follow established safety procedures: be sure the current in the circuit is shut off at the service panel, and double check with a voltage tester. Do not work in a wet or damp environment, Always practice safety as you work ‘SWITCHES A switch controls the flow of power in an electrical circuit. When the switch is on, electricity flows, through the circuit from its source to a point of use. Most residential electrical switches are one of several toggle (or snap) types. To determine the exact type, turn off the circuit ro the switch before you begin. Then remove the faceplate and the mounting strap screws to release the switch. Pull it out coward you. The switch will be attached to the cable wires by either screw terminals or, less often, spring clamps like those in back-wired outlets. Most commonly, they have both side’ terminals and back-wiring holes. ‘The number of connections tell you which of the following, types of toggle switches you have (Fig. 1). ‘Three-Way Double-Pole Four Way ‘Common types of switches inlade this bs etn for corm es of ets ide Nase senor Single-Pole Switch. A switch with two terminals is called a single-pole switeh; it alone controls “nt dostle pols ssh as OFF/ONsemped one wees. | the circuit. The incoming hot wire is hooked to one terminal screw, and the outgoing hot wire is connected to the other screw.Three-Way Switch. A switch with three terminal screws is called a three-way switch, One terminal is marked COM, or “common”; the hot wire is connected to this terminal, The other terminals are switch leads. Two three-way switches are used. to control a circuit from two places. Complete information on the wiring of three-way switches is given in How-To Booklet #3004: 3-Way Switches Double-Pole and Four-Way Switches. A double-pole switch has four terminals. It is nor- mally used to control 240-volt appliances, A four-way switch also has four terminals, Three four-way switches are used in a circuit to control ‘one outlet or fixture from three separate places. Both switches look the same, but a double-pole switch has ON/OFF markings. In addition to the terminals mentioned, most switches will have a green terminal for a ground wire. POSITIONS OF TERMINAL SCREWS ‘The position of terminal screws varies to let you select a switch that permits the most convenient placement of wires in the switch box (Fig. 2). No matter which switch you select, it will fit into a standard-size box. ‘Switches cone wih dierent serinal positions or wing Sonvenience, Alton show bere are gle poe, Back wed ‘itches hve tenia bes nes oF ew Side-Wired Switch. This ype of terminal arrange- ‘ment has screws on one sice of a single-pole switch or on both sides of three-and four-way switches. End-Wired Switch, Another type has screws on the top and bottom of the switch housing with screw heads pointing up and down, respectively. Front-Wired Switch. A third type of terminal arrangement kas screws facing the front of the switch, with one serew at the top of the switch and the other at che bottom of the switch. ‘This type is very rare Back-Wired Switch. This type doesn’t have ter minal screws, It has holes in the rear of the switch into which wires are pushed. Below each hole is a slot. To release a conductor, use the end ofa paper clip, screwdriver, or similar tool to press the tang in the slot (Fig. 3). To insert a conductor, press the tang in the slot and insert the wire. ‘The wires rust be perfectly straight and exactly the length indicated on the side of the device. TESTING A SWITCH When electricity fils o reach an outlet or fixture, a switch may be faulty or the defect may be with an outlet, fixture, appliance, or lamp. To deter- mine if a single-pole switch is causing a circuit to fail, use the continuity tester to test the switch. If the switch proves faulty, replace it. Do not try to repair a faulty switch, BY Turn off the power to the switch by deacti- vating the appropriate fuse or circuit breaker. Remove the faceplate screws and the faceplate, F Use a volmeter to make sure the power is off. Pall the switch out of the switch box afer removing the screws that hold it in the box. Loosen the terminal screws and remove the wire conrections from the switch. Do not do anything :o any other wires present in the box. Fasten an alligator clip on, ot touch a probe 16, one wite ofthe restr fo either terminal screw and then touch the other probe ot tor clip to the other terminal screw - 4), Have a helper flip the toggle switch, When the switch is in the ON position, the light will go on in the tester. When the switch isin the OFE position, the tester light will be off. This indicates that the switch is in gooxt working order and the trouble is in the light ‘or appliance that the switch controls. ABOUT OUTLETS (RECEPTACLES) A receptacle is frequently called a wall receptacle. Itis the point of electrical service into which you insert the plug of a lamp, appliance, clock, or other electricity-using equipment. There are several varieties of receptacles. Some are designed for outdoor use, some to handle the heavy-duty requirements of major appliances, some are integrated into light fixtures, and some are combined with switches. The most common home receptacle is the duplex receptacle that is rated at 15 or 20 amperes and 120 volts (Fig. 5). A duplex receptacle has two outlets and accommodates two pieces of electrical equipment. Back wired switches (and ures) ste 3 ay soe under tite port ese the wie fom eee fou Pas rede pate the deLe Although many homes have two-hole outlets, three- hole grounding outlets are required in all new hous- es and should be used for all replacements where a ground is available. Such outlets include one hot wire, one neutral wite, and one ground wire, Most people recognize the hole for the grounding prong, ‘but many do not tealize that the other two slots are different sizes. The shorter slot is connected to the hot wire and the longer slot to the neutral wire. ‘This distinction is important with the increased use of electronic equipment in the home. Many of the plugs for this type of equipment are polarized, mean- ing that one prong is wider than the other because internal switches and other components must con- nect to the current in proper sequence Grounding Outlets. Grounding outlets have a green grounding terminal. If the metal box is mounted on the surface of the wall so that the projecting metal tabs on the outlet make firm con- tact with the box, no wires need be connected to this grounding terminal. Otherwise, the terminal should be wired to the ground wires entering the box. If there are no ground wires entering the box, test for the presence of ground before installing a three-pronged receptacle. Having con firmed the presence of ground, attaci a bare or green wire to the grounding terminal and attach it to a grounding clip. Follow directions from the grounding clip package. Alternately, you may secure ground wire t0 a screw threaded into the back of the metal box, Older boxes may have to be hole drilled and tapped so that machine screws can be driven in to secure the grounding wire. Using. sheet metal screws is illegal. Don’t install a grounding outlet that is not actually grounded, inless you use a GPCI receptacle. Testing Outlets. Although a recepticle has no moving parts, it eventually wears out, However, if you have trouble with a circuit, test it carefully to determine whether or not itis faulty. In time, plas: tic parts may become brittle and break off. Metal paris inside the receptacle loosen and fail to make secure contact with plug prongs. If a receptacle shows physical damage, or if it seems co have an internal failure, it should be replaced. A bad recep- tacle cannot be repaired. ‘The best outlet-testing procedure is co use an inex- pensive neon voltage tester, It has no internal power, and the test light glows only ifthe probes Connect points where voltage is present (Fig. 6) Reading Switch/Outlet Markings. When you buy a replacement switch or outlet, be sure you get the one that matches the circuit. The markings and. ratings on old and new equipment must match UL (Underwriter’s Laboratories) and CSA (Canadian Standards Association) monograms indicate that the switch/outlet has been tested and listed by these organizations. Make sure the replacement has markings appropriate to your country. AC ONLY means that the switch /outlet will handle only alternating current. CO/ALR is a wire code indicating that the switch will handle copper, copper-clad, and aluminum wire. 15A- 120V means that the switch/outlet will handle 15 amperes and 120 volts of power. A new switch /outlet must have the same volt rating as the switch /outlet it replaces. It can have a greater ampere rating, provided that the rating does not exceed the fuse or circuit breaker feeding it 4 Filip the toggle to OFF. Again She prober Ifthe wining ahh, ‘he Habe should nor et ap Fig. 5 Grounded Three-Prong (120 Vots-15 Amps) ci Grounded Three-Prong {120 Volte-20 Arps) CQ Ungrounded Two-Prong (120 Volts) a ‘Buy the right replacement receptacle. Resncemene Sete sont se the ame wage snd ape ting ts the orignal ute Fig. 6 Insert one prong in she Hove of ute the ‘rhein the round an then the neta ste I the wis rah, te wl iit both ines. ere re grout Bol, ‘ovat one prong tothe Feeepacefop ort the tel bo el an eet the otheringo te hot se be oe