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Process of Inspection, Types of Defects and their possible solutions, (Marker making, spreading, cutting, bundling , ticketing quality parameters and formats ) Quality Specs.
Contd..
This type of inspection can be performed by either quality control inspectors or individual operators themselves after they perform their respective operations. This will minimize the need for later repairs and rework. Each production operation performed correctly makes for a smooth running plant with low operating costs. Poor quality at any stage in production compounds itself and can be expected to increase total cost. In process inspection is also called as during production or du-pro inspection
The operators (workers) and supervisors are constantly reminded that the company has a specific quality level to meet, just by the very presence of the inspectors in their section on a daily basis. Because each worker realize that his/her work is subjected to being inspected at any time throughout the day the quality of work produced by workers will improve The data obtained can be effectively analyzed and utilized by the production supervisors and plant manager in correcting problems or improving quality.
The day is long past when apparel manufacturers can depend solely on 100% final inspection at the end of a production line. The quality cannot be inspected into a garment after it has been made; instead, quality should be manufactured into a garment at every step and checked repeatedly during production.
Bowing
Bowing is the distortion of filling yarn from a straight line across the width of the fabric. This would cause unbalanced stresses in fabric, resulting in slackness and tightness in the ply that will lead to undersized components. Also the garment component containing such a defect will tend to twist or distort in laundering or dry-cleaning.
Cutting Defects
Cutting quality is a prerequisite for quality in a finished product. In addition, cut work quality affects the ease and cost with which construction is accomplished. The quality of work leaving the cutting room is determined by how true the cut fabric parts are to the pattern; how smooth or rough the cut surface is; material or fabric defects in cut fabric parts; shade differences between cut fabric pieces within a bundle. In addition various factors in cutting that can affect the subsequent quality should be checked, such as under- or overcut, size, placement and sequence alignment of notches and drill holes, ripped or pulled yarns etc.
Finished product not measuring to specified dimensions and component parts not fitting in relationship to notches, openings, and seams such as armholes, sleeve heads, neck bands, neck openings, side seams, inseams and waist measurements etc.,
02.
Distorted Grading:
Unbalanced patterns which would cause twisted seams, puckering, pleating and a general uneconomical yardage waste.
Marking Defects
Shaded Parts: Pieces not Symmetrical Not Marked by Directional Lines:
Skimpy marking
All component pans not included in same section.
Will not sew together without puckering or pleating. Bias will not fit together, causing twisting, puckering, pleating and a general mismatching of component parts. Marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern. Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.
Spreading Defects
Uneven Spreading: Narrow Material Missed Sectional Breaks: Improper Tension
Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or back edge of marker not catching all plies. Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover marker width Sectional marker breaks too long or too short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted. Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.
Mismatching Plaids:
Material spread too loose or too tight causing plaid lines to run diagonally or bow.
Air pockets not removed. Napped material reversed in spreading. Not spread face down, face up or face to face as required
Misdirected Napping:
Cutting Defects
Marker or Perforator
Not stapled or stenciled on lay to catch both edges causing parts to miss in cutting. Too tight or too loose distorting dimensions of garment. Perforated stencil not powdered, or inked sufficiently to show distinct lines, notches and punch marks
Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets Attached to, or marked on, wrong bundles causing mixed sizes and/or shades. or Bundle Members Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or Drill Marks Opening Slits Improper Cutting
wrong side drill used. Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut through entire bundle or omitted. Not following marker lines resulting in distorted parts. Letting knife lean, causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes. Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted. Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned. Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on bundles. Piece damaged by over run in cutting previous piece
Ink stains from stamping or pin ticket machines. Improperly placed or marked