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Institute of Textile Engineering & Clothing Technology (ITECT)

Orchid Plaza-2, 5th floor 109 Green Road, Farmgate, Dhaka-1215

STUDY REPORT ON MITALI TEXTILE MILL

Supervised By
Mr. Mohammad Abu Sayeem Director, ITECT.

Submitted By Md. Nazmul Hasan Shifat,ID: 101779


Md. Mohabbat Alam, ID: 101814 Asish Kumar Dhar, ID: 101831 Semester: 5th

Letter of Transmittal

Mr. Mohammad Abu Sayeem Director Institute of Textile Engineering & Clothing Technology

Subject: Submission of report on Mitali Textile Mill at Madhabdi in Narshingdi. Dear Sir, Here is the report on the Mitali Textile Mill That we are asked to submit under your supervision. We sincerely hope that the report and the recommendations would help you making effective decisions. We truly appreciate this assignment and enjoyed it very much. We will be highly obliged if further assistance in interpreting our analysis.

Sincerely yours Md. Nazmul Hasan Shifat, ID: 101779 Md.mohabbat Alam, ID: 101814 Asish Kumar Dhar, ID: 101831 Semester: 5th Institute of Textile Engineering and Clothing Technology.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At the outset, I wish to express my gratitude to everybody who has assisted in formulation of this report. There are many to whom expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there some special people who has to be given prominence, without whom I would not have reached the conclusion of this report.

I wish to thank

Mr. MOHAMMAD AYUB, Chairman, ITECT. Mr. M. A. SAYEEM, Director, ITECT. Mr. Jaidul Haque, Principal, ITECT.

For providing this wonderful opportunity, channeling and motivation. No amount of Gratitude is adequate for

Mr. Hanif Mohammad, Proprietor, Mitali Textile Mill. Md. Sobganullah Tulu, Weaving Technician.

For their consent in allowing us to conduct our study. We are equally thankful to all other people (who were experienced with so many interviews as interviewee) who have been consulted for their valuable opinion.

PREFACE
The blend of the practice and principle- an industry visit project transforms the classroom student into a multidimensional internee. The real life experiences gathered through the period helps the pupil to learn practical aspects and application of theoretical knowledge. It provides a huge positive impact on the student in the spheres of interpersonal skills, exposure, group work and experimentation. The textile mill visit at Mitali Textile Mill and Cloth Processing Centre is evidently the experience which provided the spectrum of psychophysical knowledge and experience. Our Major Objectives of study were: 1. To study the working environment of the industry 2. To study the departmental processes and their interrelation within the organization 3. To study the Organizational Structure I have tried my best to sum up the total work process of the industry through observations and interactions.

1. ABOUT MITALI TEXTILE MILL (MTM)


Mitali Textile Mill established in the year 1984. It is situated at Choto Godharchar, Madabdi in Norshingdi. The mill has modern machinery on its back process. Basically it is a fabric weaving mill but it is also prepare sized warp beam for other cottage and small weaving mill. According to its machines and production process MTM has production capacity of 5500 yds of gray or raw fabric and 90000 yds of warp yarn sheet per day but depending on market demand and other circumstances it is producing 4200 yds of gray or raw fabric and 80000 yds of sized warp yarn sheet. At present around 120 workers are working in two circular shifts in MTM.

1. ORGANIZATIONAL HIERERCHY

Hanif Mohammad, Co-Proprietor. Samsur Rahman, Co-proprietor. Amolendo Gun Chowdhury, Manager. Firoj Ahmed, Asst. Manager. Aslam Mia, Supervisor (sizing). Gulam Mustafa, Prodution Manager.

Layout of MTM

PRODUCTION
2. Production Flow chart

3. PREPARATORY PROCESS FOR WEAVING


The yarns as manufactured and packaged after spinning are not in the optimum condition to enter looms directly so as to produce fabrics. Package size, build and other factors make it necessary for the yarn to be further processed to prepare it to be handled efficiently during fabric manufacturing. The yarn package as it comes from spinning must be repackaged to meet the particular needs and demands of fabric manufacturing.

3.1. WINDING
Winding is the process of transferring yarn from one type of package to another package.

Pic: Winding M/c

3.1.1.

OBJECTIVE: To transfer yarn from spinner bobbin to another suitable package for warping machine. To make a continuous supply of yarn in the subsequent process. To remove yarn faults like hairiness, neps, slubs and foreign matters.

3.2. CREELING

Creeling is the process of setup warp yarn package on the creel for withdraws warp yarn to prepare warp beam. 4.2.2. OBJECTIVE: To assemble warp ends. To withdraw warp yarns.

4.2.3. Creels: Independently of the warping


system, the threads are fed from bobbins placed on creels. The creels are simply metallic frames on which the feeding bobbins are fitted; they are equipped with yarn tensioning devices, which in modern machines are provided with automatic control and centralized tension variation. Moreover the creels are equipped with yarn breakage monitoring systems. The creel capacity is the parameter on which the number of warping sections or beams depends.
Pic: Stop Motion

Pic: Tensioning Device

Pic: Creel

3.3. WARPING

Warping is a process by which a long length of warp yarn is wound on a warper beam. The winding of warp yarn from packages in to a warp beam is called warping.

Pic: Warping M/c

3.3.1. OBJECTIVES: To create a limited number of warp threads (creel load), of a warp composed of any number of threads with the desired length. To arrange threads according to the desired sequence. To manufacturing warp beam with said characteristics. If the creeling capacity is equal or higher than the number of warp threads, the warping would simply entail the direct winding on the warp beam of the threads coming from the creel. Generally this condition does not take place and, even with creels of high capacity, the number of creeling positions never corresponds to the number of threads, which is always by far higher than the number of bobbins which the creel can contain. Depending on the kind of intermediate carrier used, the industrial warping process can be carried out according to two different technologies: I. II. Sectional warping Beam warping or direct warping

Direct Warping: It consists of preparing number of full width warping beam with required length, called as one set. The total no of ends warped in number's of beam

depending on the capacity of creel. These all beams of one set put together on sizing creel for the sizing process, which result in formation of weaver's beam.

Use of Direct Warping


Direct warping is used for prepare a set of one color, either grey or dyed yarn. To prepare large set length of yarn in each warping beams of the set & prepared number of small length sized beam from this set which reduce the warping and sizing machine downtime. Multi-color warps with complicated patterns can be formed successfully on this type. It gives one set so less inventory and handling of beams is there.

Beam warping or direct warping is used mostly when several beams of same warp length have to be prepared; this kind of warping is carried out in two separate stages: At first the proper warping takes place: the available threads (Creel Capacity) are wound on a large cylinder called Beam And so many beams are prepared as indicated by the result of following expression:

Number of beams =

In the second stage the threads wound on the beams are simultaneously unwound to form the weavers beam.

The way in which threads are assembled during this second phase shows that the number of the beams should be preferably an integer number.

Pic: Expanding Comb

Pic: Pressure Roller

3.4. SIZING
Sizing is the process by which an adhesive coating is material coating is applied around the surface of warp yarn. In the weaving process, the warp yarns are subjected to rubbing and chafing against various metallic parts of the looms as they are threaded through backrest, drop wires, harness and reed. They constantly are rubbed together during shedding. The warp yarns are subjected to tension constantly as well as intermittently during let-off, take-up, shedding and beat up. These two reasons lead to increase the end breakage level during weaving, which should be minimized.

Pic: Sizing M/c

3.4.1.

Objectives

To strengthen the yarn by causing the fiber adheres together. To make the outer surface of the yarn smoother so that hairs protruding from one yarn in the warp should not became entangled with the hairs protruding from a neighboring yarn.

To lubricate the warp yarn so that there is less friction when they rub together in the weaving process. To make the warp yarn stronger and more resistant to abrasion. To adhere the projecting fibers with the warp yarn and remove hairiness.

3.4.2. Slasher Sizing Machine Slasher sizing machine is most widely used. About all types of yarns can be sized by this machine. The slasher sizing machine is consists of the following primary units: Creel- Unwinding zone. Size boxes- sizing zone. Drying cylinders- Drying zone. Lease rods- Splitting zone. Head stock- Weavers beam preparation zone. Creels- Unwinding zone: The beam creel is merely a device or frame on which beams are placed in a manner convenient for unwinding. The creel can hold as few as one beam one beam and usually as many as fourteen. At the slasher, many warp beams are combined to form a single weavers beam.
Pic: Unwinding Zone

Size box- Sizing zone: The yarn next enters the size box. The size box contains the size solution, known as size liquor. The yarn is feed into size the box by means of a

guide roll. It then passes under a dip or immersion roll. This roll is capable of being moved up or down allowing the yarn to be held in the size liquor for a desire period of time. The yarp sheet then passes through two rolls known as squeeze rolls. The purpose of the squeeze rolls is Pic: Sizing zone followed: To squeeze out excess size. To physically drive the size into the yarn for proper penetration. The size box also contains pipes which supply solvent, size ingredients and steam to heat the size liquor. In this way , the temperature and concentration and hence the viscosity of the size is kept as constant as possible to assure both correct and uniform size pick up by the warp yarns. Drying cylinder- Drying zone: After the yarns have been exposed to the size liquor and have picked up the required amount of size, the size solvent must be driven off. This drying may be done by exposing the yarns to hot air, by passing them over heated cylinders or can. The yarn is dried by coming in contact with these hot cans.
Pic: Drying zone.

Lease rods- Splitting zone: The function of the lease rods in the splitting zone is to separate the individual yarns which are stuck together because of the drying of the size film in the drying section. To achieve this, a series of lease or bust rods with one large diameter busting rod are used.
Pic: Splitting zone

Headstock- Weavers beam preparation zone: the yarn is now ready to be put on the loom beam. It is threaded through an expansion or zigzag comb which is adjusted to allow the warp sheet to come to the width required to fill the loom beam. The yarn is wound onto the loom beam at the headstock in a manner similar to that in the beaming operation.
Pic: Beam preparation zone

3.4.3. Factors Influencing Sizing Parameters: Type of yarn, spun or filament Spun yarn parameters such as twist, count, and fiber blend Spinning system: Sing, rotor, air-jet, compact, etc. Type of weaving machine: Shuttle, projectile, rapier, air-jet, water-jet, multiphase, etc. Type of fiber: Natural or manmade Fiber blend Construction and weave of fabric Environmental laws

3.4.4. The concentration of the size and add-on depend upon the following factors: Yarn Count: Lower Count has higher surface areas and therefore requires more size. Construction of fabrics: The higher number of warps per unit space, the higher the size requirement. Type of weave: Plain weave fabrics are more difficult to weave due to a greater number of interlacements compared to weaves with long floats such as satin.

The loom type: For example, shuttle or shuttle less, and weaving conditions influence the type and amount of size to be applied. The use of a water-jet loom also influences the characteristics of the size selected. The size should be water soluble during application but should be water insoluble when dried, so that when the pick is inserted by the water jet the size is not removed. Type of sizing machine: Conventional, pre dryer type or single-end sizing; each has different application procedures and constraints.

3.4.5. Controlling Points of Sizing Viscosity of size the solution. Sizing machine speed. Size add-on levels. Concentration of the size mixture. Volume of the size box. Threading arrangement. Condition of squeeze rolls. Squeezing pressure. Hardness of squeeze rolls. Diameter of squeeze rolls. Number of size box. Yarn count and size box warp density per unit space.

3.4.6.

Process of sizing

The process consists of laying warp yarn parallel and sizing the yarn with a mixture to strengthen it to withstand the rigors of weaving. Warp yarn is withdrawn in sheet form from warp beams which are placed at the back of the sizing machine. The yarn is then passed through sow box. Size solution is applied by immersion. After removing surplus solution that occurs at this state, the yarn is dried and arranged on a loom beam.

3.4.7.

Process Control in Sizing

The process control program in sizing should, therefore, comprise of the following aspects: 1. Selecting the correct size recipe and size pick -up level 2. Ensuring correct preparation of size paste 3. Control of Size pick up Stretch Moisture content Quality of beam Machine speed Machine efficiency A method to calculate the expected level of productivity

3.4.8. Sizing Ingredients


Adhesive: Modified starch, fabric glue, tapioca starch, carboxyl methyl cellulose (CMC), poly-vinyl alcohol (PVA), polyester resin (Binder) etc. Function Coat the warp yarn with a film. Impart smoothness.

Bind the protruding fibers to the yarn surface. Increase elasticity. Lubricant: Mineral waxes, oils, paraffin wax, animal fat etc. Function To give a softer feel to the sized yarn. To reduce stickiness of yarn. To smoothen the yarn.

3.4.9. Choice of Size Recipe The suitability of size recipe for the type of yarn should take into account, fabric construction, and end use as follows: 1. Cotton Yarn- Starch Based 2. Polyester etc. - Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA) based 3. Count Fine and Superfine count- thin boiling Starches. Coarse Count- Ordinary starch. 4. Fabrics Heavy Fabrics- Modified starches. Light and Medium- Ordinary starches. 5. Machines Conventional sizing Machines- Low viscosity starch. High speed sizing machines- High viscosity starches. 6. Unbleached calendared sort of fabrics- More weighting agents, antiseptic softeners etc. are used. 7. Bleached sorts- ordinary starches 8. Constructions Finer Counts and Heavier Constructions- More size pickups Coarse counts- Less size pickups 7. Plied yarns- low size pick up or nil even

4.4.10.

Control of size pickup

For control on variation of size pick up, the two steps required are: 1. determination of average size pick up on the beam 2. Suitable adjustment in sizing conditions 1. Determination of size pick up Example: The weight of sized yarn on a beam was found to be 82.5 lbs. The beam contains 1050yards of warp, whose count before sizing was 50s cotton. If the number of ends in the warp is3000, calculate the following: a. The weight of size on the yarn b. The % of size put on the yarn c. The count of sized yarn
a.

Weight of size on warp = weight of sized warp- weight of same length of unsized warp Now weight of unsized warp = =
=75 lbs.

Therefore weight of size on warp = 82.5 -75 = 7.5 lbs a. Percentage of size on warp =

b. Count of sized yarn =

=
= 45.5s Cotton

2. Control on sizing condition 1. Viscosity of size paste in size box: Any variation in the concentration or temperature alters the viscosity of the paste which in turn affects both the level of size pick up and extent of penetration. Initially as the viscosity increases, the size pick-up also increases. But as the viscosity increases beyond a point, the size pick up is reduced. 2. Squeezing pressure and condition of squeezing nip: The squeezing pressure determines the extent of penetration of the size paste between the fibres of the yarn and also of the removal of excess size paste and hence the level of the size pick up. 3. Speed of the sizing machine: Other sizing conditions remaining unchanged, the size pick up increases with increasing sizing speed and vice versa. This is because the time available to squeeze the surplus size from the yarn is less at high speeds. 4. Depth of immersion roller in size paste: the depth of immersion roller in the paste determines the duration for which the yarn remains immersed in the paste. This duration in turn influences both the level of size pick up and the extent of size penetration. 5. Level of size paste in the size box: Variation in the level of size paste is an important source of size pick-up variations both within and between beams. 6. Density of ends: When the density of ends is high, difficulties are encountered in obtaining adequate and uniform size penetration. Therefore size pick up may vary at these fabrics.

4.5. DRAWING-IN/TYING-IN
Drawing-In: After sizing, the sized warp beam is prepared further to be placed on the loom. Drawing-in is the entering of yarns from a new warp into the weaving elements of a weaving machine namely drop wires, heddles and reed, starting up a new fabric style.

All the warp threads have to be threaded through the heald eyelet and its gap in the reed prior to weaving. The heald is the part of the loom that is used to move the warp threads up and down. The threads pass through eyelets on the heald. For a simple weave pattern alternate eyelets are moved up to raise the corresponding warp threads, and the threads between are moved down. When the shuttle travels back their positions are reversed. The reed is like a comb and its purpose is to control the separation of the warp threads. The open space between each wire of the hook is called dent. A warp end is passed through a dent with the help of the reed hook, after it passes through the heald. This process is called denting.

Tying-In: Tying-in is used when a fabric is being mass production. The tail end of the warp from the exhausted weavers beam is tied to the beginning of the new warp.

Pic: Tying-in

4.6. WEAVING
Weaving is the process of interlacement between the warp and the weft yarn in a fabric according to design. Mechanism implies construction and interaction of the related parts of a machine. Weaving mechanism therefore denotes construction arrangement and working principle or interaction of a weaving machine and its components parts, in which a fabric can be manufactured.

Four fundamental operations of weaving in any loom are as follows: Shedding: raising specific yarns by means of the harness or heddle frame. Picking : inserting filling yarns through the shed Beating up: pushing filling yarns firmly in place by means of the reed.

Taking up and letting of: winding the finished fabric on the cloth beam and releasing more of the warp from the warp beam.

4.6.1. LOOM
The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as weaving. The machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine or loom. Weaving is an art that has been practiced for thousands of years. The earliest application of weaving dates back to the Egyptian civilization. Over the years, both the process as well as the machine has undergone phenomenal changes. As of today, there is a wide range of looms being used, right from the simplest handloom to the most sophisticated loom. In order to interlace wrap and weft threads to produce a fabric, the following mechanisms are necessary on any type of loom: 1. Primary mechanisms 2. Secondary mechanisms 3. Auxiliary mechanisms

Primary Mechanisms: These are fundamental or essential mechanisms. Without these mechanisms, it is practically impossible to produce a fabric. It is for this reason that these mechanisms are called primary mechanisms. The primary mechanisms are three in number.
1.

a. Shedding mechanism b. Picking mechanism c. Beat-up mechanism Shedding mechanism: The shedding mechanism separates the warp threads into two layers or divisions to form a tunnel known as shed.
a.

Picking mechanism: The picking mechanism passes weft thread from one selvedge of the fabric to the other through the shed by means of a shuttle, a projectile, a rapier, a needle, an air-jet or a water-jet. The inserted weft thread is known as pick.
b.

Beat-up mechanism: The beat-up mechanism beats or pushes the newly inserted length of weft thread (pick) into the already woven fabric at a point known as fell of the cloth. These three mechanisms namely shedding, picking and then beat-up are done in sequence.
c.

2. Secondary Mechanisms: These mechanisms are next in importance to the primary mechanisms. If weaving is to be continuous, these mechanisms are essential. So they are called the secondary mechanisms. They are: a . Take-up motion b. Let-off motion.

a.

Take-up motion: The take-up motion withdraws the cloth from the weaving area at a constant rate so as to give the required pick-spacing (in picks/inch or picks/cm) and then winds it on to a cloth roller.

b.

Let-off motion: The let-off motion delivers the warp to the weaving area at the required rate and at constant tension by unwinding it from the weavers beam. The secondary motions are carried out simultaneously.

3. Auxiliary Mechanisms: To get high productivity and good quality of fabric, additional mechanisms, called auxiliary mechanisms, are added to a plain power loom. The auxiliary mechanisms are useful but not absolutely essential. This is why they are called the auxiliary mechanisms. These are listed below.

a. Warp protector mechanism b . Weft stop motion c. Temples d. Brake e. Warp stop motion (Predominantly found in automatic looms)

Warp protector mechanism: The warp protector mechanism will stop the loom if the shuttle gets trapped between the top and bottom layers of the shed. It thus prevents excessive damage to the warp threads, reed wires and shuttle.
a.

Weft stop motion: The object of the weft stop motion is to stop the loom when a weft thread breaks or gets exhausted. This motion helps to avoid cracks in a fabric.
b.

c. Temples: The function of the temples is to grip the cloth and hold it at the same width has the warp in the reed, before it is taken up. Brake: The brake stops the loom immediately whenever required. The weaver uses it to stop the loom to repair broken ends and picks.
d.

Warp stop motion: The object of the warp stop motion is to stop the loom immediately when a warp thread breaks during the weaving process.
e.

Rapier Loom: In this type of weaving, a flexible or rigid solid element, called rapier is used to insert the filling yarn across the shed. The rapier head picks up the filling yarn and carries it through the shed. After reaching the destination, the rapier head returns empty to pick up the next filling yarn, which completes a cycle. A rapier performs a reciprocating motion. Insertion of weft by rapier is a mechanically modern and refined version of the primitive method of fabric production. Rapier weaving machines are known for their reliability and performance. Rapier looms operate at speeds ranging from about 200 to 260 ppm. The advantage of rapier weaving machine are: Minimum filling breaks. Fewer machine stops. Better fabric quality. Higher productivity of machine and staff Weaker filling yarn can be used. Correct setting of filling waste length and consequence less waste.

Pic: Rapier loom

With double rapier system, normally two rapier inserted in shed from opposite side and the weft is transferred from one to the other when they meet and there after they are withdrawn. Weft supplied from single package may be inserted as a loop is straightened out during rapier withdrawal from shed or the end of the weft is transferred from one rapier to another rapier.

Air-Jet Loom: Ari-jet weaving is a type of weaving in which the filling yarn is inserted into the warp shed with compressed air. It is an advanced weaving method with high efficiency and productivity.

The advantage of air jet weaving machine are: High productivity. Low initial outlay. High filling insertion rates. Simple operation and reduce hazard because of few moving parts. Reduced space requirements. Low noise and vibration levels. Low spare parts requirements. Reliability and minimum maintenance.

Air-jet looms are suitable for use with medium weight yarns than very light and very heavy yarns with operating speeds up to 600 ppm. The air jet loom consists of 5 sets of nozzles. Each set further comprises of five relay nozzles. The main function of relay nozzle is to guide yarn to the receiving end. There is a profile reed to guide the yarn for smooth flow and the according to width of fabric Yarn feeders are used which accumulates the incoming weft yarn.
Pic: Air-jet Loom

4.7. INSPECTION & FOLDING


Grey Fabric Inspection occurs in fabric inspection for the weaving/ spinning defects. The removable defects are removed and noted down, and irremovable defects location is noted down and the frequency is noted. There is a roller attached counter which counts the number of meters inspected and helps in location the position of the defect. Then the fabric is folded in a desire length.
Pic: Fabric Inspection.

5. CONCLUTION
The purpose of this report is to explain what we did and learnt during our study period with Mitali Textile Mill (MTM). We have tried to sum up all the production processes in this report and also tried to give some technical assistant in this field. It is hoped that this report would serve as a cardinal vehicle to the improvement of the study program.

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