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all sciency and technical

Jul 21, '12 3:45 AM for everyone flukey76

The horn gave up. Something to do with 12 electron Vs instead of 6 V ones. Its like really technical scientific and like, you know, whatever.

So Mr Schminternet coughed up a new a 12V horn. Or, 12B to be specific the ruski writing on it says so.

luke
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/Russian%20Signal%20Horns.pdf

If youre keen, you can read all about horns here: http://www.goodkarmaproductions.com/HTML/pdf

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09/11/2012 08:35 AM

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Or you can just goggle image search do I make you horn baby. Be sure to turn off safe search to fully enrich your experience. Still with us? I prefer the look of the older horn because its black and the face design is nicer. I proceeded to pull both horns apart and then drill the new one to fit the old horn cover.

I have avoided Yellow zinc plating everywhere on the bike. The bike has silver zinc nuts and bolts on black stuff, and black zinced stuff on silver stuff. The new horn differs from the old type in that it doesnt have the 6 bolts around the outer edge. Also it is, like, not useless as shit. Some washers needed to be added under the old cover to provide clearance between the cover and the bolt in the centre of the horn. No biggy really. Added some silver spray on the back to cover the yellow zinc, fitted her up, time to test. Spewin, doesnt work. Scratch head. Swap the connections. No go. Check for volts 12 and / or more were there. Still nada. Wound out the little screw on the back just a bit. Beep freakin Beep happy days. I was worried I would need a 12B Russian Electrons to 12V Aussie Electrons converter. That shit is hard to find, man.

And whilst were being all sciency, now for an update on spark plugs. Spark Plugs fit in the first part of an occasionally perplexing equation: super happy electrons + air + petrol = vroomvroom. I previously mentioned I had been running B7HVX spark plugs. There are now over 4000kms on them and heres the scientific verdict they rock dude, cause they really do make electrons super happy. More super happy on one side of the equation means more vroom on the other side. nd They were never adjusted, cleaned, anything. Just threw them in and away she goes. I bought a 2 pair and now the originals will go into the tank toolbox for spares. Heres some pix. On the left of each pic is the left hand plug, on the right is the right hand plug. Also shown are the new ones.

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09/11/2012 08:35 AM

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You can see that the right side plug is a little closer to desired richness and the left is a bit blistered. Looking down the plug hole, the crown of the piston is light brown with no accumulated carbon and thankfully no pitting or melt. Time for some preaching: Once again I gotta say that this type of plug is a winner at least for this motor with these carbs. Testify. For sale, a significant collection of used spark plugs; b8hs, b7hs, b6hs, bp7hs, bp6hs. Most come not only with the genuine NGK box but the little cardboard cylinder thingo that goes on the end of the plug which is very rare. All are one owner, low kilometres. Suit collector or enthusiast. Buyer to arrange transport. Wife says theyve gotta go. Genuine enquiries only, no time wasters or scammers please.

I have been chasing down a solution for a backfire deceleration pop. It was mostly coming out of the right hand side. I th added 1/8 of a turn richer on the pilot of right hand carb about 1000km ago. That was enough to reduce it quite a bit. Interestingly, since then, the right side head is always 5 to 10 degrees hotter than the left side despite being richer. I must say that an infra red thermometer is a great diagnostic tool! The temp difference used to be the other way around until I did a full Twinmax carb balance. I put the remainder of the popping / difference down to the right side intake being more restricted than the left because the right side barrel is further back / closer to the air box outlet hole. Well see if that theory is decent one day when I get around to making new inlet pipes. Ill also add 1/8th of a turn on the left side carb pilot jet. That will take them both to a 2 turns out less 1 poofteenth. Heres more chat about a mysterious little doohickie: (Hmmmm, go figure. My computer likes the word doohickie and even autocorrected from doohicky. What is a doohickie anyway? Maybe its what your new girlfriend requested on a first date) Anyway, heres the doohickie:

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09/11/2012 08:35 AM

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These are speedo drive gears pics from shebay. The one with the fine teeth is like the original that has been in the bike from day 1, the coarse teeth one is quoted as being for solo ratio final drive. Note the teeth on the main drive about 5 peaks on a solo drive versus about 6 on a sidecar drive. This is why my speedo indicates 60 k/yac at 80k/yac. I have a 9/35 solo final drive with a (probably) 8/35 speedo drive. The guru http://jdmt9.multiply.com/ says that there is no known part number for a solo drive by the way.

Remember the high and lows blog?? http://flukey76.multiply.com /journal/item/14 Well theres a pic there of the bike show in that blog. Today I had to go to the newsagent and buy oz bike mag, one of those ones with topless chicks in it. It was a really tough read. Quite distracting. Anywho towards the end of the mag is the pic of the bike at the show. I think I am the only person in the mag without any tatts.

Better images in the al bum ! http://flukey76.multiply.com/photos /album/12/getting-around-and-otherstuff-now-with-more-getting-around

A quick note on idiot lights. Making globe brackets sux. But now I have 2 more ruski looking lights in the headlight shell. I am hoping the arrangement is reasonably in line with the ruski style. Ahh, what am I worried about with this hoping crap. So far there seems to be no style police in the Cossack bike community.

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09/11/2012 08:35 AM

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A hi intensity blue led worked for the high beam but I realised pretty quickly the that yellow led wouldnt work for the blinkers the wiring reverses polarity between left and right blinker so only a globe works.

For sale, 1 rather expensive hi intensity yellow led. Buyer to pick up. Will consider bulk deal with spark plugs, and Pekar carbs. You have been warned! I would put a pekar blog link in here but it would probably break your comshmuter.

Enough of that shmeg, this little sucker will get installed one day its a 10/35. 9/35 means about 3.8:1 final drive ratio and pretty high revs at 110k/yac or more. 10/35 means 3.5:1 final drive ratio and about 10% drop in revs. So once I get the speedo working accurately for 9/35 Ill probably go and throw in the new final drive gears and therefore the speedo will be out again! The shebay solo speedo drive seller says it suits both 9/35 and 10/35. Um, sorry dude, no it dont, and explaining why would be like, really sciency and, like, whatever.

What else? Well, F2 sells headlights with a glass pattern that is reversed for those who ride sword side first. You know sword side first yeah? Its the correct side of the road. Sword in your right hand, buxom wench to your left, enemy approaches to your right! Friggen yanks, cake eaters and the rest of yas, ya dont know what ya doin! Check out this pic:

There are some sections in the glass that spread the light high wide for the footpath side of the road (left side of photo) and only wide for the traffic side. Works great for everybody that drives on the wrong side of the road but leaves us monarchists and

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09/11/2012 08:35 AM

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convicts scratchin our heads. So do I ignore it, spend a gazillion on a new light or, well, I just turned it upside down.

Now I didnt exactly expect this to completely change my riding experience or perspective on life but, I must say that it does spread less beam into oncoming traffic. My real problem with the light has been that the high beam aint so high. I installed a h4 globe and hi beam actually does sweet FA compared to low beam. This gets the knickers in a knot and I reckon its because the ruski globes have a different position for the low and high filaments which means that each bounces off different parts of the headlight parabola. Now were getting too technical so Ill leave it at this: screw it, just how much do ya need high beam, call me a pussy fag but if lone midnight rides on dark country roads with no moon happen to continually freak me out then Ill just stay in bed with a woman. Mmmmmmmm, hi beams.

Speaking of technical sciency. You have to be a freakin rocket scientist to craft these things.

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09/11/2012 08:35 AM

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Seein as though I aint a rocket scientist, freakin or otherwise, my only option is to buy one. Yes folks, shes all mine and the dude thats fixin her up for me will be finished in a few weeks then shipping it here. 2 months and counting. Sword side first conversion of an M63+duna. Now thats gotta be worth a blog all of its own.

5 Comments

i-distractions 3.0

May 28, '12 7:44 PM for everyone

The bike is running well so what next? This is a continuation of a couple of comments on the main bcozz page.... My speedo needle also wanders. I thoroughly lubed the cable, that helped a bit, put silicon spray into the small hole where the cable screws into the speedo, that helped a bit too. There is a slot in the speedo drive for the flat cable end. There is quite a bit of play between the cable end and the speedo drive groove. You can see the slot in the photo below - it's about 3mm wide. The flat end of the speedo drive is above 1.5mm thick. It meshes with the slot. I reckon that the cable is binding up as it's end hits the walls of the slot. Then I reckon it gets bound up too much and then unwinds quickly - like an unwinding torsion spring, and momentarily spins faster than the drive gear, and then slows down and gets bound up again and so on ..... This is most pronounced up until about 70k/yac. I am planning to put something into the groove that better locks the speedo cable in so there is less play. Also shown in the photo is a solo ration drive gear I bought. The bike has a 9/35 solo final drive. It also has a sidecar speedo drive so that means that the speedo is off by quite a few k/yac. 40 indicated is about 60, 60 is about 80 and 73 is about 100. Here is a pic of the speedo drive together with one I bought that was quoted as a solo speedo drive. 12 teeth vs 8 teeth. I dropped the new drive gear into the gearbox and it wouldnt mesh. This gear has quite a large face between the teeth. Not having a gear cutter at my disposal I am thinking that hand grinding of the teeth will be required to give it any chance of meshing. Any ideas dudes? Look closely and you'll see the worn section of the teeth where the drive gear meshes with the gearbox output worm drive.

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09/11/2012 08:35 AM

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Next up, a side project is on the boil at the moment and if everything falls into place Ill be bloggin about something uralistic that I can guarantee yall have never seen beforeit will take about 6 months before I can be sure it will work though so hold onto your hats schminternetters. These wheels were pretty ordinary but a bit of time and more dollars than I hoped turned them into something useful.

And finally, another ride ticked off the list a Sydney institution; Harrys Caf de Wheels, Woolloomooloo. Better pics are in the "getting around" album. http://flukey76.multiply.com/photos/album/12/getting_around_and_other_stuff__now_with_more_getting_around#photo=35

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09/11/2012 08:35 AM

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lows and highs

Mar 25, '12 11:35 PM for everyone

A few months ago I had a really crappy ride. I mean the type that makes you want to throw the bike off a cliff. No matter what I did I couldnt get the bike to ride more than a few hundred meters and at no more than 1/3 throttle. Any more throttle and it would pack it in. Go any further and it would pack it in. Just no power, badly misfiring etc etc. It had been running fine for the last 1000kms although the night before the ride I had put in a new air filter, adjusted the valves and topped up the oils. No problem, just pull out the filter completely and recheck the valves on the side of the M4 in Sydney. Bewdy, made it s of the way up a run called Lapstone hill. Then, brrrrr brrrr brr br b b nothing. Kick kick kick, bit further, stop. Change plugs. Kick kick kick, bit further, stop. Clean plugs. Kick kick kick, bit further, stop. Original plugs and air filter in again. Check fuel flow. Try again. No dice. I was stuck in the blue mountains, miles from home, trying to make my way to Bathurst at 6pm on a Friday afternoon. Pushing up hills on blind corners whilst the Friday afternoon get home from work grand prix was whizzing by. I never ever had any frustrations with this bike, I mean everything always fitted perfect, worked perfect and wait a minute, back to reality. Majorly peeved. Phone call, wait, trailer arrives. Diagnosis time. No fire on the left side. OK clean plugs. Nothing on left again. Swap plugs, no fire on left. Swap leads. OK then no fire on left. Swap coil connections. Firing on both for a bit. Then nothing on left. Left carb off, cleanout. Nothing found. No firing on left. Swap carbs. Firing on both for a bit. Then nothing on left. Intakes off. Check compression with thumb-o-meter. Same both sides. Carb cleaner into barrels, firing on both, bogs down, nothing on left. Clean plugs again. Swap fuel lines. nd 52 verse, same as the first. Getting bored of this story yet? I even checked that the ignition module works by rotating the rotor by hand sparks-a-plenty but still no joy. Every combination of air, spark and fuel related parts had been reconstructed and still its Kick o rama 2012. At this point in time I realised there was no way I was riding to the bike show the next day onto the trailer, off to the show.

Back when I was rebuilding the engine and gearbox I bought an electronic ignition module. It worked (even at 6volts) but nd these things arent exactly available at every 2 corner store in Australia, best get a spare I thought. There is no workshop or company in Australia that deals in parts or service for older Russian bikes. Even the Ural distributor is pretty firm about not having parts. Softcox. Where is your sense of adventure?! In 2010 I bought a new ignition module from a reputable ruski parts guy who said he modifies them. The newer version of this ignition has a different pickup system and a few other minor changes. A newer design that is modified for improved reliability I figured that cant be such a bad thing and this was what was now on the bike and had done over 1000 happy kms. When I got the bike back home from Bathurst on the trailer I started looking closely at this thing. To take a diversion for a minute Id had a few good solid shakedown runs on the bike but never more than 200kms from home. The race was on to get the bike ready to head up to the Manilla rally which was a 1000 km round trip. Couldnt go to Weabonga this year cause the mrs is up the duff and is due on the same weekend as weabonga. Spewing. Um, I mean, joy, baby #2. I had to get the bike to the Manilla rally or else Id be 60 before Id get a chance to have a decent run on the bike. OK back on topic. The schminternetters seem to think that these ignition modules have problems with the chipset heatsink compound drying out and making chips fry. No worries, I thought, I still have the old module so if I find a chip with a hole blown in it, I will throw the old ignition module on and at least have some confidence in the coming ride having found the smoking gun. Getting to the heatsink aint as bloody easy as the schminternet makes it out to be. Ive been misled a few times by you schminternet. Consider yourself on notice. You have to drill out a screw that holds the chips hard against the body of the module. Once you start drilling you have this one way trip feeling. So I drilled the bugger out and you know what? Nothing. No dodgy heatsink goo, no buggered mosfets or reg chips or whatever they are. Mr 4mm drill bit has successfully butchered a (no idea if it is still) good ignition module. Now I am thinking Ill be 65 before I get a decent ride. I proceeded to fritter away a reasonable amount of life on rebuilding the module: smear in heatsink compound, find a way to put compression on the chips so they transfer heat well but make sure the pressure doesnt blow open the module cover, clean out swarf, blablabla. Bolt er back up, then put the rotor in, reach for the tabbed washer, flip it over, flip it over again. Pause. WHAT THE F%$#! OK Shminternetters. Heres the photo. The rotor assy from a new modified assembly on the left, older standard ruski assembly on the right.

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The modified part of this mod involves a heap of sealant and the large body washer that is meant to bear on the rotor and on the stepped washer. I also put loctite on the thru bolt as well, the bolt used was the longest possible. The ruski version has a much smaller and thicker washer and short bolt and no sealant. The thick washer only bears on the stepped washer. Heres the kicker. Washers are normally pressed and have a sharp edged side and a smooth edged side. The photo shows the smooth edged side facing up. The smooth edge was facing the cam. The cam has a stepped end on it. Rather than the cam end locking into the washer, the washer had been riding up on the end of the cam. As the smooth side of the washer was facing the cam, it was easier for it to jump out of position than if the washer was reversed so that the sharp side faced the cam. I reckon it was jumping in and out of sync with the cam intermittently. Put a bit of shock into the drive line and you would probably bring on the problem. As the stepped part of the cam is a bit worn, the washer was twisting a bit too just before it jumped out of sync. All this meant the left cylinder was occasionally way too advanced and the right side, not quite as much.

In the photos above you can see the large washer has an uneven wear mark on it. This shows that the stepped washer was half twisting out of position it was only in contact with part of the large washer which was meant to hold it in place. The big washer and sealant modification seems logical until you consider an older cam / engine can have some end float and the cam can be worn on the end. The pressure applied from the body washer wasnt necessarily pushing the stepped washer hard against the cam. Its bearing a fair bit on the rotor. With a bit of force and vibration buzzing around all the components, the stepped washer can move around a bit. Waddjadoo? flipped the washer over to the sharp side that will help it bite into the cam. added sealant to lock it into the rotor, every surface. That should take up some of the wear looseness. select a body washer that only rests against the rotor outer surface by about half a mm. It will bear more against the tabbed washer but still bite against the rotor. Add a star washer to the main thru bolt, with loctite and torque it up to damntight-Newton-Meters. Drink a beer but dedicate its enjoyment to the Russian goddess of speed. Such a chore. It started first kick and idled great. Thank frig for that cause I cant wait till Im 65 to go for a ride. Off I go down the street for a test run. Only half a km away I am distraught. It wont accelerate over 1/3 to throttle. Back to shed, ignition module out, old one in. Back out again, same deal. Change plugs, same deal, air filter out, pure bliss power all the way through all gears. Old air filter in, no dramas, new one in, no power. Dang. Put back in the butchered ignition with the old air filter, bew di full. Its Saturday. So then I decided to test everything on Friday as I had the day off work. What better way to test than take the 1000km round trip to Manilla for the rally.

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Back home I check the air filter and its now completely cactus. Its been catching rocks and dirt but there are splits and bits of foam everywhere.

Both filters suit a WR250 yammie. The newer one was preoiled and a bit thicker. Both fit the modified air box perfectly although the newer one is more snug. Both have a hole in the middle of the top of the filter. I suppose this is to lock it into yammie air box somehow. I used body washers and a long bolt through the filter hole to pull the filter down into the air box drawing it into a funnel shape. The new filter was installed the same way as the old filter but for some reason it was not flowing enough air. It didnt seem too different to look at it.

This was a P I T A as the solution couldnt be tested at idle or in gear on the centre stand. Every time I wanted to test nd something I had to ride down the street, get into 2 and then get on the throttle. This little journey probably happened 20 times before I figured it out. Engineers might call it an iterative empirical analysis. We can call it trial and bloody error. The funnel shape was the problem. It was putting more tension on the new and thicker filter than the old one. This was pulling the foam tighter and if you look closely at this pic, you can see that the pores are closed when the filter is tensioned. This was basically the same effect as a blocked filter.

(EDIT - these photos look terrible in the blog - check out the album to get a better idea) What I did was just put in a short bolt that simply blocked the hole in the filter. The weight of the bolt holds the filter away from the air box lid. Air sneaks in under the air box lid, the filter is naturally mushroom shaped. The bolt just holds down the filter a bit so air can easily get all through the air box. The good part is that it isnt stretched too hard. Oh, and I only use nyloc nuts for this stray nuts can lead to misfire. A first time for the English language, that sentence.

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There we have it punters. A dodgy ignition rotor washer and a dodgy air filter setup. It was particularly hard to diagnose as both issues were affecting the bike in different ways and at different times. Maybe the air filter issue brought on the ignition issue, maybe not. All fixed, everything running grouse. Now for the bed time story kids. I should mention that I contemplated buying shares in NGK. I had tried numerous spark plugs throughout the pekar carb games, the ignition games and all the other games. Most folks, if not all, use the NGK BP7HS. Some guys recommend using two washers on the BP7HS to better position the plug in the combustion chamber surface. BP7HS has a centre electrode that protrudes further out than the electrode on the B7HS. B8HS is colder than B7HS, BP6HS is hotter than BP7HS etc. I think you get the point. The bike had run B8HS plugs throughout the 70s and 80s. I found that BP6HS plugs were too hot, BP8HS kept fouling and BP7HS plugs would make the bike ping a little under load. When the motor was really hot the BP8HS plugs would also bring on a bit of pinging. B7HS seemed OK, or at least I got more trouble free miles out of them compared to B8HS. Throw into all this mix, I reckon that dodgy pekar carbs and all sorts of other issues over time meant some plugs were good sometimes and others had no hope no matter how suited they were to the bike. And this is a story with happy ending: I spent $16 each on B7HVX NGKs. They are a platinum version of B7HS. They had no adjustment, no cleaning, nothing. I just put them in, rode a few times in the week before the Manilla run then did the 1000 km trip. No pinging, no fouling, no poor starts, no misfires, nothing but perfection. Since Manilla I have done a few 100 more kms. Pulled them out thinking that I might have to clean them and deciding to do nothing except take the photo below. They look crappy because the have done the most kms of all.

I might have to richen up the mixture a bit this is despite having 2010 model 750 jetting. Maybe 2012 model 750 jetting will do the trick. But thats a story for next time. At least for now Im onto something good with these plugs and Im going to stick with it. Good night children, sweet dreams (Kick, brbrbrrrrbrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr)

12 Comments

will the therapy ever end

Jan 2, '12 10:16 PM for everyone

OK so here we are again dudes, ye be regaled with yet another episode of the usual man cave bike stuff. No doubt you all read the epilogue to the pekar carb install. We had great times, pekar and me but then I decided to dump the dumb cow for a younger model and have a party. So heres the wash up from that: 2 x Keihin CVK 32s, flange adapters and the branch pipes to suit late model ural 2 new pistons and ring sets, rebore and skim the deck of the barrels get the heads and valves looked at new throttle cables twin leading shoe front brake throw bits in with the zinc plating at work Barrels and pistons The barrels and pistons were 40 years old. I measured the weights of the old and new pistons and wrote the weights on the crowns in grams. The weights were identical in the new pistons but there was a fair difference between the old ones. Maybe this meant some imbalance at speed between each cylinder.

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When I pulled the pistons out there was a lot of oil and fuel pooled on the crown and a lot of oil on the skirts of the pistons. Basically I reckon the rings werent able to control the oil in such a sloppy barrel and also the dodgy carb was flowing surplus fuel into the chamber making things just that little bit more unreliable. One of the barrels was borderline for a first oversize rebore so I had a spare barrel with slightly more meat on it that got rebored instead. The second barrel that was on the bike came back from the machinist with a small shadow near the top of the barrel about the size of a fingernail. It was also borderline for first oversize rebore. The shadow was a small spot where the machining and honing didnt cut back to fresh metal. The surface feels fine and there isnt a lip so its good enough, just not absolute 100%. With 2 barrels beyond the normal limits its no wonder the bike blew so much smoke.

I expected the 2 new pistons to be matched to each barrel. They were spot on identical so no issues there. To further help with oil control and reliability I have two 3 piece wavy type modern oil control rings. These have far less sliding friction and provide better oil control. They were recommended to be fitted to the bottom ring groove of each piston.

I did this but the left side smoked like crazy. The left barrel has an extra oil gallery to lube the skirt. The wavy rings were put in the upper oil control ring groove and the smoke instantly disappeared. The old gudgeons were absolutely spot on so they went back in. To top it off I threw the studs and nuts and bits and pieces in with the zinc plating that we send off at work. Makes everything clean and shiny. Cyl heads The heads needed some port work to mate properly to the new flanges. The old port diameter was about 30mm and this needed to come out to about 33mm. Getting the heads professionally worked on was a decent investment I reckon. They were cleaned up and the valves and seats got checked. Wanted to make sure that everything was tip top. Looks better than if I had attacked it with a dremel and wire brush

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Unfortunately I didnt have fine calibrated burettes to properly CC the combustion chambers. With a small measuring cup the combustion chambers came up at around 50ccs. This gave a calculated compression ration of 7.6:1. I believe std CR is about 6 point something so a nice hike has been gained. The head porting was only on the inlet side and quite a bit of meat was taken out on the short radius side of the port and also around the lead in to the valve guide. The difference from std is chalk and cheese you can now look into the head and see most of the back of the inlet valve. Keihins Much like their predecessors, the Keihins were a fair bit of work to get on the bike. The old pekar adapter plates and Russian turbo & balance pipe adapter are gone. In its place there are some new custom bolts to hold down the Keihin flange adapters. The adapters had to be modified to suit the narrower mounting points on the 650 head. The bolt pitch is about 57mm on the 750 and about 53 on the 650. I think I read about this somewhere before but checked for myself on Ken Robertsons bike before I made the purchase - it seemed close enough to make it work.

The amount of material taken out of the port meant a fair bit of work on ensuring that the carb flanges would seal. The final solution was a custom rubber gasket on the head surface, a flat alloy plate against that and then the carb flange against the plate. Looks rough but works great. Silicon sealant is my friend. The connection to the std m63 airbox was a pain in the butt. I ended up using some old pre-formed radiator hoses to get routing into the original airbox. On the left side carb this is pretty neat once figured out but on the right hand side it is further back. This makes the piping angles pretty tricky. The best solution will be a custom bent steel pipe and this will happen a bit further down the track for now it work and doesnt look too untidy. Throttle cables and other carb stuff. The 750 ural uses a single cable out of the throttle and then this splits into a double cable setup. This couldn't be copied unless the old throttle was replaced completely which was not an option. The original cables had some barrels soldered on the ends to adapt them to the new carbs the std length was pretty close.

The elbow cable guides that route the cables into the old carbs and the cable adjusters were soldered into the cable assy. These elbows better direct the cables but provide a bit of friction. Friction became a problem when it was found that the throttle wouldnt return cleanly from full throttle. The std cable bracket on the keihins suits the ural 750 and other bikes. It has a mount point for the cable adjuster and there is also a mount point for a return cable which isnt used on the urals. As Im using old style cable guides there is no need for the std cable mounts. These were cut off and then a small bracket was added to suit the elbows. There is still a bit of work to do in this are to neaten it up but for now it will do. Brakes Not much to say here other than the twin leading shoe front end is on and adjusted. It was polished up a bit to make it more bearable. The new shoes are a bit spongy but they are improving with time.

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Higher res pic uploaded just because I reckon it looks sweet. Other stuff It all ran really well after a bit of fine tuning and I put about 250kms on the bike since this was all done. The std carb jetting seems to be close enough. There are 650 jetting recommendations in Ernie Frankes Keihin rejetting guide. Ill also have a look at this down the track. It must breathe a lot better now because of the head work and this might make recommended 650 Keihin jetting a tad lean. Plug colours seem pretty much spot on with out of the box jetting. The only thing changed was the pilot screw settings they were 2.5 turns out and got wound back. I have been mucking around a bit more with the old B7HS and B8HS plugs. Most people use and recommend BP6HS or BP7HS plugs and also a second washer under the plug. The P plugs push the electrode further into the combustion chamber, the washer pulls it back a bit. Long story short, this bike always ran BxHS plugs and, well, for some reason its seems fixated on being happier with these. My arse dyno says that pinging and exhaust backfiring is lower when I swap out the BPxHS plugs. More investigation to do in this area too! Its pretty darn hot in Sydney this week and I blew a head gasket this week which was easily fixed. The gasket used was the last new one out of my spares. It was the last used cause it was the thinnest.

One of the head nuts appeared threaded and this is where the gasket gave way. Later on Ill take up the recommendation of replacing the studs and nuts with allen key bolts that thread straight into the M8 x 1.25 threads in the barrels. It was probably the head torque issue that started the problem and then the crappiness of the gasket that finished her off. Either way I am back up and running now with an old, but decent condition thicker gasket. Time to source a new set... The foot shifter seal sprung a leak so I sourced another seal from a local hydraulic seal place. Its not often you can find new spares about 5km from home. The seal was new from when the gearbox was overhauled so I was a bit surprised to find this problem. Turns out that when the shaft was welded onto the lever there was some weld spatter left on the shaft. The spatter created a sharp edge that chewed up the seal a bit. This got sanded off and a couple of orings added in to help with the sealing. All good so far. I dreaded this job because this puts the detent screws out of whack of course I now have the occasional false neutral so a bit of adjustment is needed. Having the assy out gave a good opportunity to polish up the cover and distract me from the angst that comes with trying to understand the detent adjustment procedure.

While were talking about leaks, there are still plenty to deal with but it is getting better slowly. I can park the bike overnight without a drop of oil anywhere. Heat her up and its a different story! Gave the forks a drain and full clean out. Added some new bushes fresh from the RMOA stores. Am thinking about dropping the oil weight down to 5. Shes pretty firm. I think I have a sidecar ratio speedo drive with a solo ratio diff, the indicated speed is way off. A couple of dots on the

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09/11/2012 08:35 AM

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speedo glass might be in order unless I can find the right speedo drive. Im in running in mode at the moment but as it is, it runs really well. Idle is smooth, starting is fine and there is heaps of cruising torque. Everywhere I go I get people coming up. I went out for a coffee the other morning and parked it there. 3 different guys came up and started chatting, 1 wanted a photo. You can see there is still a fair bit of sorting out yet but it is rideable and the hard stuff is done. The man cave therapy isnt over yet dudes.

Update, 400 km trip. On the ferry crossing the river:

Quite a lot of this sort of country encountered along the way.

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7 Comments

seriously wtf?

Sep 11, '11 6:04 AM for everyone

So I know what all yall schminternetters are thinking yo dawg wat up? And to answer your question: Iz juz chillin in tha crib wid my beaches and sheet yall. That and trying to figure out why the bike broke down the other day. See I went out on the freeway last Sunday night and she was running brilliantly. I was freakin stoked and not even thinking about the beaches. It was about 14 degrees, not much traffic, I was just cruising and having a great time. Got home, put the timing cover on and decided to ride her to work the next day. So off I go on Monday morning, shes popping a bit in real heavy Sydney traffic, nothing too serious, got to work, checked and cleaned the plugs at lunch time and then headed on home in the afternoon. It was a typically bad Sydney winter day, completely blue sky, light breeze and about 24 degrees. Off I went into the terrible weather. Its about 1 km from work and then onto the freeway. About 1 km down the freeway she started to miss badly. By 2km I was struggling to maintain 60. By 3km I couldnt keep it running. It was basically like the ignition was being turned off. Let it cool down for a while and then tried again. Struggled up to about 60 and then another km down the road she stopped. This time it was terminal so I decided to host the inaugural Kickerama 2011 right there on the side of the M4 just in front of the speed camera at Cumberland hwy. I must have won first prize as I got cheers from several c**8head p-platers going past. Float bowls off, plugs out, etc etc no joy. Long story short I go a lift home from a mate with the bike on a trailer. Peeved big time. Went and saw JD a few days before and she was running pretty ordinary, got her fixed and she was running real sweet. Then nothing. All I did was put the timing cover on at night and then make the sun come up the next day and warm everything up a bit. 1 step toward the trip to weabonga, 2 steps back. Running out of time! So heres the list of things that have been done since: Squared up the throat of one of the carbs, poor casting, poor seal. Filed it back and polished it up for better slippery action Loctite all the bits serious black reckons should be sealed and loctited Square off the float bowls so they seal better Square off the carb face on the head side so it seals better Make all new float boal gaskets to replace the crapamoli std ones. The new ones are far wider than the originals and I think that avoids the need to add epoxy the thicken up the thin section of the float wall- as was recommended by a fellow pekar appreciator whose name eludes me. Reset the floats. One takes more float arm bending than the other to get the same level. Theyre now identical File the high spots off the Aluminium d-block the bit that is the centre of the carb throat and venturi and where the needle passes through. Remove a heap of aluminium flashing from all sorts of places to prevent a broken off piece causing problems later. Areas of flashing excitement included the float bowl, the D block in the carb throat and the carb throat itself. Remove the right side barrel, clean up, check and rotate the rings and re-align the ring gaps. Tap in the Right side exhaust port collar a bit more, it was leaking a bit Update, print out and laminate the wiring diagram And heres the observations: LS tappets pretty loose - +10 thou rather than 2 thou LS Head gasket leaking RS inlet tappet too tight - <1 thou RS rockers loose tapping a bit. The spring washers are a bit sacked out. Bent em out a bit to take up the end float. Mental note, buy some rmoa rocker assys. Another mental note, make more mental notes. RS barrel oil drain was not ideal RS collet retainers too far gone replaced RS barrel was almost finger tight RS head a fair bit looser than the left Head studs loose on both sides RS valves were about 2mm free length shorter than the new ones I had I must have a sidecar ratio speedo drive as I was doing about 65 km/yac thru the 90 km speed camera zone and the traffic was sitting on just under 90 I reckon. Next things to do are: Replace the new 5Kohm plug caps with new ones with no resistance? Replace the BP7HS plugs with sixes (with double washers!)? Refit the heads Await a new coil and ignition unit from the UK! Aside from that I need to dump all the oils engine, gearbox and diff Check the oil pump pickup for tightness check and retighten the wheel bearings reset the alternator backlash fix up my toolpack put some test kms on it! I tried a few coils borrowed from JD. Results were inconclusive a technical term for buggered if I know if that is the problem. Ernie Frank reckons that the electronic ignition needs a matched coil of 1-2 ohms resistance on the primary side. The coil that came with the EI is 1.4. I havent found the smoking gun that caused the breakdown so I am hoping that this is a sum of everything problem. Parts are due from the UK next Wednesday so this is gonna go down to the wire-Weabonga-wise. All appendages crossed yall.

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8 Comments

distractions version 2
The carbs are now mounted and plumbed up.

May 7, '11 12:50 AM for everyone

Summary of work follows: machined back the balance plates so that the carbs are level. This doesn't leave much room between the float bowl and the foot levers. Machine out the internals of the balance plates so that flow isn't affected. Elongate the bolt holes to allow the bolts to pass through the (now angled) plate without fouling Elongate the bolt holes on the carbs just slightly, same reason as above. Cut the balance plate pipe spigots back to 5mm then tap to bsp Add bsp to 3/8 hose tails and 3/8 hose Add a m8 dome head bolt to the old 6v alternator rear backstop stud Fabricate a clamp for the balance hose Add a ball valve to the balance pipe and position in line behind the alternator Cut back 4 m8 allen key bolts to 42mm, cut back the bolt heads so that they dont foul on the cyl head adapter plates. These hold the carbs to the balance plates Cut back 4 m8 countersunk allen key bolts to 18mm Take a spare exhaust balance pipe and cut and braze so that you have two angled air filter to intake pipes, each unique to suit the angle on each carb side. Gut the air filter box to suit an aftermarket foam reusable element, add some bent threaded rod and nylocs to hold it in. Turn up a spigot with oring grooves to fit into the timing cover ventilation port, add some 3/8 hose and a brass spigot to the other end, route it up so that the brass spigot sits just under the air filter lid Throw all fasteners, the air filter adapters, the carb mixture screws and a heap of nots and bolts off the bike in with the work stuff going to zinc plating and then get it back and try and figure out what goes where. Use two long length intake pipes rather than the original 1 long and 1 short. Add 2 thick gaskets and 1 thin to each carb side, some hose clamps, nuts and washers and in theory you have an M63 with pekar carbs and a balance pipe that can be turned on or off whilst riding or tuning.

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I have a misfiring problem at the moment something to do with the bike having no wiring at all. The full size wiring pic is in my album and it's the final major hurdle

23 Comments

getting on with it

Dec 23, '10 7:11 AM for everyone

Rewiring the whole bike has been a daunting task but now I'm on holidays I finally have time to eat the elephant one bite at a time. This is why its getting rewired.

Now the lights needed a 12v upgrade. The blinkers, stop, parking lamps and so on were easy being standard bayonets. A H4 globe fitted in the headlamp after it got some uber precision machining with the tin snips. A few m4 bolts and nuts held it in no prob.

As serious black notes, a low profile H4 plug is required. There was only 1 type of plug available from the store I went to but fortunately it fit with a small amount of clearance from the speedo cable.

H3 globes were close to what the driving lamps needed but not quite big enough to fit their globe sockets.

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H4s were way too big and overkill. Supercrap auto sells front spot light kits for cars for about $50. I took a gamble on some ugly H3 fog lamps because they were $30 which is the same price as two H3 globes by themselves.

Buying these foglamps provided the metal needed to make a globe flange mount to mate H3s into the driving lights. I cut a circle around the fog lamp globe hole at the same size as the driving light socket - exactly what was needed. A light dab of carburettor cleaner removed the yellow fog lamp tint turning them to silver.

The cool part of this superb tinsnip encore was not the potentially award winning globe retention. The supercrap lights use a U profile rubber seal to keep the water off the globes. Turned inside out this seal fits perfectly around the speedo hole in the headlight shell. The old seal had been leaking water into the headlight shell for some time.

Just a light dab of Vaseline on the new seal and the speedo slid right into place with a perfect fit. So that was two problems fixed and Ive got some new wires and connectors out of the fog lamp kit for work down the track. Note that this work was done mostly on non standard components and therefore the 3 times rule did not apply. It was maybe a 3 beers job.

After some schmintternetting I got a 3 way switch off, ignition, lights.

It seemed to be the best way to switch the driving lights and the ignition position will be wired in series with the main ignition switch. I reckon you could pick the standard ignition switch with a paperclip so this adds some security. I found an old aluminium cylinder amongst a pile of junk at work. The cylinder is the same size as the top half of the rear shock so with some imagination you could say it matches the bike

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A neighbour once gave me a brand new home espresso machine that was missing the handle and cup thingy where the coffee sits in then you hook the handle cup thingy it into the machine. Im not a barista and I didnt really give a S*** about driving around coffee machine suppliers asking for handle thingys. I gladly took the machine off my neighbour though explaining that I would find a use for it. Which I did. The perforated bit that the cup sits on now holds my screwdrivers. The pump was played with for a while, rigging wires directly into a powerpoint saw to that. Pretty good pressure. The main stainless cover on it got cut up into a circle and polished, this then capped off the end of the aluminium cylinder. It is truly another piece de shitristance thanks to the tinsnips.

Once again the supercrap lights saved the day as the unused water seal from one of the supercrap foglamps was used to seal the whole assembly.

It should be reasonably discrete under the seat but convenient to reach when kickstarting. Theres enough room inside the assembly to fit a relay and the flasher. Polishing it all took at least a couple of beers.

This bit of palava was rejigged with new screws and a polish up of the contacts. Theyre all M4 screw holes and the saying dust to dust rang true as the original contact screws had returned to their preferred iron oxide dirt state and would have introduced plenty of poor contact problems.

Note the nice speedo seal :)

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09/11/2012 08:35 AM

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Lets forget about wiring for a bit bcozz its annoying.

This is the newly painted air filter body complete with foam doovy sitting in it.

Plenty of blokes in the know use all sorts of paper element stuff and thats pretty spiff. I went for a cheapo run of the mill trail bike foam filter turned inside out and upside down. Maybe even back to front too then a bit skewiff.

I used a long bolt and nyloc to pull it down into the filter body. The internal ring inside the filter body is also cut down to provide about 10mm clearance from the foam filter to the top cover air hits the whole filter surface so flow should be Ok, maybe not enough for a few horsepowers but maybe 1 dogpower. Perhaps even a labradoodle on heat.

And just when I thought the wiring was a mindf###. Heres a side project I took on.

Tattoo freaks like to torture themselves with nipple piercings but theyre all pussys till theyve built ural bottlecap wheels. Spoking wheels is almost as much of a Mindf### as trueing them. Hubs are also repainted. Cost me a carton.

The interesting part is that this image seems to be wrong

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I figured the best way to understand the pattern during rebuild was to draw it in full scale onto cardboard and so heres a photo that shows the short spokes in their true cross pattern.

Note which short spoke is in front of which.

Here are some regulator pics for your viewing pleasure. The standard regulator is pretty cool being such a chunky device and Im not sure if there are some pics of a 6v reg of this type up on the web so be entralled dudes.

It is pretty corroded but still worked OK.

Note the stamp saying Made in Japan

The point here is that I plan to put the new 12V reg under the original cover. Plan A was to mount it under the seat but curiosity got the better of me and I decided the magic tin snips would make this a stealthy piece of kit. Stay tuned.

And if youre still reading, the black finish on the reg cover is black zinc. All the fasteners on the bike that go into chrome or aluminium are all black

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zinced so they look old but have good corrosion protection.

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Heres the front brake nice and polished

and if you look closely you can see the variability in the metallurgy - a polishing challenge!!

Thats probably all for the next few weeks. Have a great Christmas and be careful as the Russian Goddess of Speed can see when you are picking your nose in the mancave.

11 Comments

general distractions
This is an oddity that came with the bike. Somebody took a std sump, cut a rectangular hole in it then welded a finned box on. Now thats dedication.

Sep 2, '10 8:08 PM for everyone

Extracts from the latest mancave therapy sessions, aka distractions that will keep me from getting to weabonga this year.

Its unique in that it is steel and tapers down to the sump plug unlike the aluminium stuff out there. Adds about a litre and confirmed to be leak free.

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Well actually thats a lie and you fell for it you facist. I found it actually leaked from the front 4 sump bolts and no manner of torque or talk fixed it. As the engine is currently out it was easily seen that the front 4 bolt holes thread right through the casing and into the sump cavity. I reckon this means that the oil creeps down the threads. I reckon this because none of the others leaked and they all blind thread into the casing. Some temporary bolts were threaded into the offensive holes and the inside facing thread tappings were covered over completely with gasket sealant. Appendages crossed this works. With some help I made up the deep draw pickup but am reworking the piping as Id like better angle of the dangle. The pickup itself is off my old boldor. Mesh pitch is about half that of the std Russian rock catcher. Or should that be: pitch is double. I dunno FFS, its much finer alright?

This pic is a pic of a pic.

And it's the same in the pic as the rack I bought then gleefully butchered.

I wanted to pick up the tractor seat mount points and avoid the chunky front and rear flanging so chopped her up a bit. Its currently getting painted by a mate. The standard tractor seat rubber flange will protect the guard and disguise my dodgy misaligned brazing on the brackets. Angle grinder use seems to correspond to gritty drink for some reason.

In theory (disclaimer: no need to call DOCS as this is all crap that you invented in your warped mind, neither I nor BCOZZ exist, you dream about me often dont you, you sicko) being 1 year old, my daughter wouldnt be able to grapple the tractor seat without being ocky strapped down however the rack would facilitate that much easier. Heres the Raceway Services (WTF raceway, ural, huh?) version. Its the same rack without front and rear flanges on the outside pretty much what I wanted but a bit costly and not guaranteed to match up with existing holes.

But schminternetters, you didnt guess it, a made to fit breadboard. Dont that just bake your noodle. The knife is for the cheese officer.

Actually this is what inspired the rack. A bit lower and fatter on the rear should look sweet but I spose well have to wait and see.

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This is my rare departure from policy of function over form. If anyone wants to part with one of their british Miller brand driving lights (even with busted lenses) let me know. The chrome on one of them will cut my mustard but is pretty dicey.

Finally. The next steps in the 12 volt conversion.

Exhibit A

Exhibit B

Exhibit C

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This diagram actually makes sense to me but I drew it so everything I do makes sense to me. Yes, Irbit wasnt built in a day. Enjoy your camping you bastards!

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4 Comments

the rules
Russian Bike Maintenance observations

Aug 16, '10 7:22 AM for everyone

The Three Times Rule Bear in mind I had never done one of these and all I had was a service manual in russian and the colour book with pics. The Three Times Rule is where every assembly operation must be done three times in order to realise how it should actually be done. By the third attempt you have it nailed and in the process understand each sub component, its design features, interactions and functions, down to an excruciating yet interesting level of detail. The X beers rule Some mancave jobs take 3 beers to complete, some take 6. I think you follow what I mean. Every job on a Cossack bike can be described by the X beers rule. Trust me. There are no decimal points so you cant have a half beer job throwing half a beer is wasteful and you probably havent thought the job out hard enough. Where it appears that there will be say 1.5 beers to complete a job you should always round up. Russian Bike Insanity Part 1: Insanity is doing the same thing, over and over again, but expecting different results. Ask the schminternet for a source on that quote and youll get countless different answers and misquotes. Which is my point: regularly expecting schminternet searches to provide reliable detail on every cossack bike question. Its a russian bike so get over it. Fine, refer Part 2. Part 2: According to wikipedia: Feigned insanity is the simulation of mental illness in order to avoid or lessen the consequences of a confrontation or conviction for an alleged crime. Theres flukey out in the mancave again working on that weirdo Russian motorcycle, the freak. Yep, no problems with that.

0 Comments

alternator install (and how to butcher a casing)

Jul 1, '10 6:35 PM for everyone

Ive been convinced for some time that 6 volt was only trouble especially on the ignition side of the ural. I mean sure if you have a nice cache of globes and patience you could make magic happen with ye goode olde 414 genne. No thanks, not for me. It turns out that like everything Cossack, this 12 volt work is a well worn path. Every punter and his dog has ruminated about 12volt. Heres some examples of how they did it accompanied by my comprehensively researched and factually unbiased critique: Total loss toss the generator / alternator and have a dirty great battery only. Get home before dark cause youll turn into a pumpkin whilst pushing the bike home as you ran out of juice to run the ignition. Some blokes claim they have no pumpkin risk. Maybe not if youve got a sidecar to fit a full size odyssey battery, $500 to burn on it and you dont venture further than one fuel tank from your power point. Run the 6v system at 12v now this is intriguing but then the question begs, why didnt they do this from day 1. If you try it youre at risk of becoming an egghead. Combined with total loss you might have a chance but in my case Im dependent on 35 year old parts working harder than they did on day 1. No thanks. Upgrade to a 12v alternator this has been done so many ways. Car alternators with funky fabrication is common - no thanks, realistically its +$300 for something reliable unless you own a Bridgeport, mig and plenty of time to burn Change the engine casing even more expensive!! Weirdo adapters with new alternators from the schminternet for <$250 bingo. A perfectly butchered M63 casing can be easily made to suit the 424 alternator with the adapter plate.

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It's just patience with hacksaws, grinders and anything else that makes metal stuff break. 12V systems have 18 tooth drive gears vs the 16 std on 6v. At max backlash rotation the centreline of the 424 is about 2.5mm higher than the cl of the 414. The extra teeth make up the difference.

The uppermost timing cover bolts didn't mate into the adapter properly so I drilled them out meaning 6mm bolts go from front over all the way to the adapter without threading into the casing. That's better for strength as the aluminium threads didn't give me that tena confidence. M10 tapping in the casing supports most of the weight. A new bracket was made to clear the alternator and still connect to the frame mounting point under the tank. The upper casing M8 bolting points differ by about 2mm between casings.
Tags: alternator

5 Comments

the pekar carb install

May 30, '10 12:47 AM for everyone

SO, I have been lurking around bcozz for a while and shamelessly printed out some of the stuff and revelled in seeing the war stories. Feel free to post up your thoughts on this drivelling diatribe, actually, please post even to tell me Im an idiot if you like. My Dads M63 busted a cam gear in 88. Sat in boxes for years until we decided that we should have a shot at getting her running again. About 2 months ago I came across a pic on bcozz that showed my Dads business with a bunch of Skippies on Cossacks J. Messaged the poster and waddyaknow, decent guy, knows the old man, checked out a cool boat and long story short, joined rmoa. So thats some of the last 25 years. Exhibit A The original K301 carbs for the M63. These had been on the bike since new and now, well, one description for them was well loved. Another was well despised. They possessed some unique fuelling characteristics such as

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when you run without the intake pipes on, your shin gets fuelled as much as the engine. Great for those stains that omo couldnt lift. They also enjoy variable cold starts, vague low to mid throttle transitions, popping feedback on heavy deceleration, walks in the park, movies and watching me kick start. A lot. Fuel pretty much leaked out of every orifice and no amount of tender care overcame the need to face the brutal fact that it was time to reconsider. I tried, dont get me wrong, thoughtfully polished, cleaned, and tended better than the missus roses. I drank alcohol in the mancave as a salute to their honour. No amount of beverage type nor quantity worked. Again, I really tried. Heck I even splashed a few bucks on chroming some bits. If it looks good then it goes good right? Thats the policy for every 4 cyl crapbox driven by every 2nd moron in Sydney with $100 to spend on an exhaust big enough for a Cummins diesel. Actually it seems that better men have persisted, JD for example, and probably won many a battle over these babies. My hat goes off to you sir. I forget the word for it but theres that guy in the davinci code that whips himself in self punishment for his sins - I figured that was me if I persisted with K301s.hence schminternetted my way into a new pair of Pekar k65s. Now a bit of angst was expended on deciding to get these. Firstly, looking at Cossack carbs, seems there are good ones, bad ones, copy ones that are good, copy ones that arent, jap carbs, rubber mounts, flange mounts of different bolt pitch bla bla. Who would have thought that the schminternet couldnt make up its mind and give a definitive answer. Oh thats right, were talking Russian bikes here. Without bcozz your stuffed cause the track day heroes down at Supadupa Bikes R Us make faces when you say do you have a {insert any part} that might fit similarly to this, whats it for, for a Russian bike. You know that face. Its like they just had a bout of constipation, whilst watching a dog vomit, whilst some fat kid with a slushy in his hand just jumped on the MV augusta in the store and is making broom broom noises. Mmmm. those 4 pipes out the back I digress. Secondly, k65s are available from many places but I figured that if I ended up buying the wrong thing then I might as well have spent the least amount possible. Solution, Ukraine vendor. Now my ukranian trade experience is rather limited and once the numbers on the magic plastic had been plugged into the schminternet I admit a nervous wait ensued. Two weeks later I went to the rmoa Sydney lunch and listened to Pauls Ukraine experience. Lets just say the wait for the carbs seemed even longer then. Interesting story Paul but fair go. Thirdly, and the clincher, repair kits are common, theyre available everywhere and theres a fair bit of info out there on tuning. The flanges looked like they were in the ballpark and easily modified if need be. Success, they arrived last week. The packaging was crap and one of them had an impact on the enrichment lever. It was snapped so lucky I bought a repair kit. Now to set the scene. I run a manufacturing company and we design, build and sell LPG systems around the country. That makes me a stickler for quality when it comes to fuel equipment. I also have a bit of decent sense when it comes to seals, orings and mating surfaces cause when LPG is put in something it tries to get out. Its a stretch to compare the K65 to modern injection system design, EMS calibration strategy and LPG tank pressures. But its easy to compare principles of quality of manufacture. To digress for a minute, there are basic rules Ive found with working on these bikes. Doing the engine and gearbox revealed the Three Times Rule. Bear in mind I had never done one of these and all I had was a service manual in russian and the colour book with pics. The Three Times Rule is where every assembly operation must be done three times in order to realise how it should actually be done. By the third attempt you have it nailed and in the process understand each sub component, its design features, interactions and functions, down to an excruciating (interesting!) level of detail. Then theres the X beers rule. Some jobs take 3 beers to complete, some take 6. I think you follow what I mean. Every job on a Cossack bike can be described by the X beers rule. Trust me. So I figured the new carbs were a 1 beer job to pull apart and understand. Then maybe a beer to celebrate the newfound knowledge. I have posted pics of the first carb teardown. Both of the rubber boots at the top were split. Heatshrink should fix it. A small black dot visible above the float bowl vent is actually casting porosity. This will satisfy the purists as it is in keeping with every other casting on the bike. Fortunately this porosity doesn't extend into the bowl. The flange was a bit dinted but nothing beyond superficial. Could have been from shipping or poor handling during assembly I suppose.

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Right at the front of the pic is the corner of the bowl where there is very poor finish. The indentations on the float gasket showed little or no seal. If it doesn't leak at the start it will leak later.

You can see in this pic the witness marks of sealing. One sealing surface is a flat surface and the other side has a thin edge running the periphery of the carb body. This pic shows an area of flat surface where the sealing surface is about 1mm. There's another leak waiting to happen but I'll run with it for now. Inside the bowl was "interesting". The die casting leaves a lot of flashing particularly around the main jet area, the enrichment jet area and a few bits around the base of the bowl at the circular bosses. These pieces of flashing fell off like cheese so would have been a partial jet blockage after a bit of heat and vibration. Ideally I'd hit the sealing surface of the float with a rubbing block to square it back but there is a small boss for the vent port. Hmmmm ... maybe later if there are probs.
This pic shows the carb temporarily mounted. It's at quite an angle so float level might be a problem on a steep downhill?? I'll leave it be and see how it goes unless any ideas come up.

Now this one is a hum dinger. Not only was the seal misplaced but the sealing marks are, well, sometimes there, sometimes not at all. This would have leaked air like a sieve and I was starting to think this was a friday carb.

The poor quality of casting finish needed a fair touch up. Also the die cast parting location area of the slide throat reveals a fair bit of a bow - this is probably why it is easy to misfit the seal the bow pushes the seal inward toward the throat. Incidently the rubber boot that goes over the enrichment lever seems to ride up on the lever. Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of protecting the shaft? Another heatshrink job me thinks. This is what the surface looks like after a bit of a hit with a file and some 1000 wet and dry. The seal is

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symmetrical so I am hoping that if I turn it over, apply a dob of vaseline for adhesion then ease the cover on I should be right. There are 4 casting bosses on the underside of the cover. These hit the seal and probably help push it out of position during assembly too. The marks from them are the downside of flipping the seal. Fair dinkum Pekar, a little less conversation a little more action. This pic also shows the throttle limiter fitted. It easily snaps off and a piece remains in the cover. Which leaks air. Thoughts? Always too many. Here are the pics of the flanges - taken with the crackberry phone. It's a bit hard to see but they're pretty simple in concept. Tip for schminternet sellers. A - do not supply bolts that have been stored in dry places rather than mud and under no circumstances should they have zinc coating. B - do not supply the freaking countersunk bolts so that buyers have to rat through every misc nut and bolt tin to find 4 of those elusive M8 x 1.25 x 25 counter sunk cap screws only to then have to spend another hour on the grinder reprofiling the countersink in order for it to fit into the horrible quality casting that kinda aint countersunk too well, cutting them to length and then wondering whether in no time at all if they'll end up looking like the crap bolts you provided. C - don't put some thought into the quality of the flange casting or in fact the function of this part in providing a nice sealing surface. The gaskets are reasonably compliant but the casting bosses right next to the thinnest edge of a "not perfectly new gasket" will make a nice air leak. 10 minutes with a grinder making them fit for purpose and looking half decent must be avoided at all costs. To go back to what I said before about good carbs and bad carbs. This was a bad carb which is now a gooder carb. I found stuff which needed to be fixed and (assuming there is one out there) a lesser man would have invariably found these carbs to be bad? Im trying to make a contribution to bcozz that is unique and interesting. So, Im not just an ego maniac wanting your adulation. Actually Im hoping you could chime in with ideas and your own experience. Thus far I have not found any material of this sort and Id like to think that somebody might get some value out of it. Better still, where the hell are you Pekar? Get your engineers onto the site and talk about your product. Im not normally one to burn up an hour on a Sunday tapping stuff up for the schminternet but Im procrastinating about the other carb, my cat has gone missing and its better than twittering with some inane crap such as Luke is taking a dump lol omg bbq etc. time for carb number 2. Till next time. Edit: So heres the update on carb #2. I was concerned that the schminternet might get full with naughty pix so I had to get my end in before it was too late ie I had to post some naughty pix of my own. Same crap on the top of the slide throat and also in the float bowl. Now thats naughty and Mr flat bastard is gonna get some action tonight. The difference this time is that the throat is nice and rectangular with no bowing so theres some good throat action in theory. Im deeply satisfied by that. The seal is nicely in place and bears the usual partial seal marks - beware punters. Also thought I might post up a pic of the adapter flange.

If you look close you can see the impact dent near where the enrichment lever threads in. I managed to ease in

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one of the assemblies from the repair kit but time will tell if this means a new carb. My salutations and well wishes go to the good folk at the Ukrainian postal service for their fine efforts in regards to sound custodianship of my precious cargo. Penii. Please look closely at the photo. Note the distance between the flange and the carb on the lowermost bolt. Remember me bitching about needing to find countersunk bolts? This is why. Seems like a bit of clearance on the pekar body would allow a std bolt or a better flange design would suffice but alas theres hopes and dreams and then about 2mm to play with. I normally play with a bit more than that. Interesting observation about the K65 is that the flat slides arent spring loaded like the K301. Does this mean that pre-tension against the throat is dependent on bending the slide outwards ?? Punters please comment. Wish the slides were chromed..as were talking naughty then I will add that I want it more slippery. The flathead screws are gonna get the flick because theyre made of that commonly used Cossack material, cheaplyobtanium which means theyll change from flathead to nohead in no time. As I dont have a nohead screwdriver Ill head for the SHCS tub. Outcome TBA. OK, OK, socket head cap screws instead of flat heads? fine, Im an anal bastd. Post me saying so or better yet, do what everybody else does these days start a facebook group called concerned cretins against anal liberals. I thought this carb job was supposed to be a 1 beer exercise . Ill be on the floor by the time its done. I spose thats the price you gotta pay for having an oo-rrr-aaahl. Cheers, Luke 1 Comment
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