DUBLIN

Dublin is a great city to explore, offering visitors a vast array of pubs, cultural attractions, and unique, gregarious people that welcome you with open arms and reveal a compact cosmopolitan playground in which everybody seems to be frolicking. In spite of a struggling economy, Dublin is pulling itself up by its bootstraps and putting on a damn good hooley show.

DISCOVERING

by Matthew Wexler

Photo: Paul Campbell

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or the gay traveler, Dublins LGBT presence has grown exponentially since Irelands decriminalization of homosexuality in 1993. Martha Whyte, Manager of Outhouse (Dublins LGBT community resource center), says, There has been a huge increase in self-confidence of the LGBT community over the past number of years. This is evidenced by the large increase in the number of people marching in the annual Dublin LGBT Pride Parade (22,000 in 2011 up from 12,500 in 2009). Whyte says marriage equality has sparked the LGBT community and resonated with the general public. The work of Marriage Equality (a national grassroots advocacy organization) and LGBT Noise (an independent non-party political group also campaigning for civil marriage for everyone) has resulted in all political parties endorsing full marriage, shares Whyte. A poll conducted
Trinity College Dublin

this year on behalf of the government indicates that 73 percent of voters believe that same-sex marriages should be allowed in the constitution. Even so, Whyte admits, This type of success can lead people to think that being LGBT in Ireland is no longer a problem, but the reality is that on an individual basis the process of coming out can be devastatingly painful, awkward, and slow. For the gay traveler, Outhouse offers comprehensive information, referral, and support service by phone, e-mail, or in person to assist in arranging gay-friendly travel plans. On a broader scale, Irelands capital city is home to just over 1 million people, with lively streets where most residents rely on public transportation or travel by foot. Getting around couldnt be easier and there are a number of options depending on which direction youre headed. Dublin Bus is perfect for traveling around the city center and cost only 60 cents (although you need exact fare and it stops running at midnight). Luas is Dublins light-rail system that offers efficient transport with varying cost depending on zones traveled. Longer journeys rely on Irish Rail, and if you plan on doing a significant amount of long-distance exploring, consider purchasing a Leap Card. This prepaid travel card can be ordered in advance and used for all of your transportation options. If the weather is in your favor, as it was with me, consider reducing your carbon footprint and using dublinbikes, the citys public bike rental system. With 44 stations positioned throughout the city, I ride my way through my shortlist of destinations while having a chance to take in the local flavor along the way. When the day is done, I drop off the bike at a station near my hotel, and it couldnt be easier. A three-day ticket is only 2 plus travel time with the first half hour free. There is a 150 guarantee, but it is only debited in the event of theft or failure to return the dublinbike within 24 hours. hile accommodations are plentiful, Dublin possesses a number of exquisite hotels that will further enhance your experience. I choose to stay at the Fitzwilliam Hotel, where my room overlooks the lush St. Stephens Green, a 22-acre city park designed by William Sheppard. The popular urban oasis was a favorite of Queen Victoria, who suggested after the death of her husband Price Albert that the park be renamed in his honor. This request was denied and represents another feather in the well-plumed cap of Irelands expression of independence. The park, along with nearby Grafton Street, a pedestrian shopping district overflowing with retail stores, pubs, and cafs, provides the perfect backdrop for my stay. The Fitzwilliam offers numerous amenities worth experiencing. The superior and deluxe guestrooms were recently renovated

Photo: Chris Hill

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River Liffey

Dublins gay scene is a haven of friendliness. Theres always somebody who will come up and break the ice, and before a night is through, youll most likely have a whole new group of friends.
by the internationally recognized architecture and design firm Project Orange and include Paul Smith fabric chairs, Isadora Blown bathroom glasses, and the best of Irish and UK interior companies. The spa offers a range of therapies that includes physiostone, deep tissue with cold stones and LaStone Therapy. Once your cares have melted away, you need only take the elevator to experience Thortons Restaurant. Chef Kevin Thorton was the first Irish chef to receive two Michelin stars, and he seamlessly bridges the gap between the traditional local foods of his youth and technique-driven contemporary cuisine. The six-course tasting menu (95) may include anything from a wild Irish salmon flight (carpaccio, tartar, and confit) to Bresse pigeon with truffled scrambled eggs, or you can opt for the eight course surprise menu (120) and leave your dining experience in the well-honed hands of Thorton and his crew. Other lodging options offer their own unique spin on Dublin. The Shelbourne Hotel reopened in 2006 after massive renovations to restore the 1824 property to its original grandeur while also including modern accents. The hotel, which was originally three separate townhouses, also overlooks St. Stephens Green. The Arlington Hotel Temple Bar, on the other hand, offers views of the river Liffey and is within stumbling distance of Temple Bar, the famed cobblestone section of Dublin crammed with bars and pubs and known for its raucous nightlife. Locals will tell you to avoid Temple Bar at all costs and that it is rampant with pickpockets and drunkards. With a watchful eye, though, its worthwhile to meander along and visit the National Photographic Archive, the National Library of Irelands 600,000-piece collection that visually documents everything from political uprisings to the regions varied landscapes. If you are a fine art lover, consider a stay at The Merrion, a luxury hotel comprising four Georgian townhouses and a Garden Wing surrounding two 18th-century gardens as well as some of the countrys most notable artwork. The collection features originals by Paul Henry, Mainie Jellett, and Roderic OConor, among others. Take the time to linger among them in the Georgian Drawing Room during an afternoon Art Tea. Conceived by Pastry Chef Paul Kelly, nine works were chosen by Kelly and his team to create a collection of pastries

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Photo: Thierry Maffeis

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inspired by the originals. For example, Roses and Temple by Patrick Hennessy is transformed into rosewater and orange mousse on a white chocolate feuilletine. Of course, after several glasses of R de Ruinart Champagne (in addition to the signature Merrion tea blend), even the carpet looked like a work of art. he Irish have harnessed many forms of artistic expression through the centuries, with the worlds most notable talents honing their craft in Dublin. The Dublin Literary Pub Crawls storytellers weave the works of Oscar Wilde, James Joyce, Samuel Beckett, and others into a jam-packed three-hour pub crawl that also pays homage to the establishments where they found refuge from their own creative demons. Created by Colm Quilligan, the popular tour has accommodated more than 20,000 patrons since its inception almost 25 years ago. My tour begins in a packed room at the Duke Inn, a Dublin staple since 1822, where Quilligan and his sidekick Frank perform an excerpt from Becketts Waiting for Godot. The 30 or so of us, pints gripped in hands, sit mesmerized as the words from the famous absurdist play come to life. At its height, Dublin had over 3,000 pubs (the number has dropped to around 850). During the early 20th century, these pubs were a place where writers would gather to share ideas and meet editors. In spite of the Censorship of Publications Act of 1929 and the following years when conservative moralism dominated popular culture, many writers stuck it out and weathered the harsh criticisms of the government as well as the volatile nature of the scene. The term pub crawl aptly fit, as writers often vacillated among different watering holes depending on whose work seemed most in favor. This day, our group devours the actors performances at each highlighted destination. Later, we stand on the steps of Trinity College to giggle at Oscar Wildes flamboyant reflection of a visit to the American mining town of Leadville. (Be sure to also visit the statue of Wilde that resides in the northwest corner of Merrion Square.) We also learn of Brendan Behan, the Irish poet, novelist, and playwright, who described himself as a drinker with a writing problem and eventually succumbed to the bottle, dying of alcohol-related health issues at the age of 41. By our final destination, Davie Byrnes, we have been transported to the world of Joyces episodic Ulysses and protagonist Leopold Blooms famous stomping ground. or a crawl that satisfies the belly as well as the mind, Fabulous Food Trails takes you to food-centric destinations within the city center. I am fortunate to have co-founder Eveleen Coyle as my guide, who quickly points out that modern Irish cuisine is about much more than cabbage, bacon, and potatoes. There were numerous English penal laws that limited Protestant land ownership and inheritance throughout the 18th century. Once repealed, and citizens regained the ability to farm land, the population exploded to 6.5 million by 1841, but the Great Potato Famine decimated the country and by 1926 the population had dropped to under 3 million. Wheres the food on this tour you might ask? We eventually start eating, but this historic exploration sets the groundwork, and as Coyle implies, establishes an enormous psychological impact on the Irish peoples relationship with food.

A COASTAL DAY TRIP

After three separate Dubliners (the perfect trifecta of taxi driver, concierge, and random bar patron) suggest a visit to this tiny fishing village, I decide to forego the free bonus day on my Dublin Bus Tour pass and take a trip to Howth (www.howthismagic.com). The last stop on the easily accessible DART train drops you off on the northern shore of a tiny peninsula that juts into the Irish Sea. I meander through the farmers market and enjoy tastes of homemade breads and fudge while locals pick up their weekly produce. Walking toward Asgard Landing, I take in the salty breeze and listen to the musicians playing traditional songs along the East Pier. The West Pier is dotted with fishmongers and seafood restaurants that feature the daily catch. From tiny no-frills shops to world-class dining, it is a seafood lovers dream. I opt for take away from the super casual Beshoff Bros Fish n Chips (www.beshoffbros.com), and I eat outside along the waterfront. If you have a few extra euros in your pocket, theyll be well spent at Aqua Restaurant (www.aqua.ie). Located at the very end of the pier, the building, once owned by the Howth Yacht Club, has been transformed into a panoramic dining experiences that celebrates the villages vibrant boating tradition. If youre on a budget, take advantage of the economical mid-week pre-fixe lunch or early-bird dinner menus offered by most restaurants along the pier. Howth has spectacular walking paths for taking in the scenic vistas, and because of the com-

Howth Harbor

pact nature of the peninsula, none will take more than a couple of hours. Enjoy local insights with Howth Guided Tours (www.howthguidedtours.com) and explore Howth Castle, rhododendron gardens, Aideens grave, and other highlights, or stroll at your own pace along the marked paths. At the top of your hike, be sure to stop at The Summit Inn (www.thesummitinn.ie), a 19th-century thatched cottage that has been in the Gaffney family for generations and offers views of Ireland's Eye and Lambay Island.
Mathew Wexler

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Photo: Gabriela Insuratelm

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Malahide Castle

Highlights from the tour include Sheridans Cheesemonger where you can sample farmstead cheeses as well as cured meats and locally made preserves. (I go straight for the Coolea Farmhouse aged cheddar.) For a fantastic selection of local brews beyond Guinness and a taste of charcuterie, we stop by Probus Wines, which recently opened a tiny specialty shop on the premises. We make two stops for sweet treats, each exhibiting a surprising sophistication in Dublins confectionary tastes. Il Valentino relies on only the best ingredients including imported Canadian and Australian grains to make house specialties such as fruit tartlets, ricotta cookies, and marzipan. While Il Valentino also makes a fantastic espresso, 3Fe has quickly become Irelands premier coffeehouse with their borderline obsessive approach to coffee making that includes an ber Boiler (the first in Europe) for the preparation of manual-brew filter coffees and a competition-spec espresso machine. For a more leisurely meal, Dublin offers an array of dining options. Some pay homage to traditional Irish cuisine while others offer contemporary preparations that push the boundaries and showcase the growing international scope of the citys inhabitants. The Church Bar & Restaurant is an historic building that includes a caf, juice bar, nightclub, and barbecue area on the terrace. You can toast to Arthur Guinness, who was married on the premises in 1761 and whose bust appears in the entry. For a modern farm-to-table experience, head to Avocas Suffolk Street caf for a jug of sparkling berry lemonade and a selection of garden salads, house-made terrines, and organically sourced meats and fishes. Crackbird, which recently opened within walking distance of a handful of gay bars, offers casual chicken dishes with Asian influences like soy garlic and Szechuan pepper. My favorite meal, however, is at Bang Restaurant, where head chef and partner Phil Yeung offers a seasonally inspired

menu in a romantic townhouse setting. From flame-grilled mackerel to Tamworth rare breed pork, Yeung and his culinary team execute flawless dishes with exquisite and unexpected touches. I could have spent my entire trip eating through the byways of Dublin, but the citys non-edible highlights beckoned further exploration.

any iconic structures appear throughout Dublins footprint, but a handful should be on your must-see list. Saint Patricks Cathedral, dating back to 1121, attracts upwards of 300,000 visitors per year. It was in the 1530s that the Anglican choral traditions were established and it is the only remaining cathedral church in Ireland with a schedule of sung services. While the church claims that a historic cathedral such as this lifts us out of the realm of things and circumstances which change into the realm of things which are eternal and do not change, there is also a haunting place in Irelands past that serves as a reminder of the countrys struggle for freedom. From the 1780s to the 1920s, Kilmainham Goal operated as one of Ireland largest prisons. The restored goal now serves as a history museum of Irish nationalism. That national pride is exemplified at the National Gallery of Ireland, a collection of notable works from the Renaissance through the 20th-century. The free museum has a small collection of recognizable artists such as Picasso and Monet, but the real gem is its expansive collection of Irish art, including works by Nathaniel Hone, Paul Henry, and Sean Keating. The life of one of Irelands most celebrated writers is commemorated at The James Joyce Center, a Georgian home that hosts lectures, exhibitions, and is a launching point for various walking tours that highlight Joyces Dublin. Another kind of history awaits at the Guinness Storehouse, one of

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Photo: Rob Wilson

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Make & Do Do, a craft night followed by an impromptu art exhibition; Bunnys Hutch in my Basement, a cabaret hodgepodge of burlesque and live music; and the iconic Panti Show, where the woman of the house and her drag children gather for a rollicking night of high drama and low humor. Other bars worth exploring include The George and the neighboring Dragon. The George has been an institution in Dublins LGBT nightlife scene for more than 25 years and has often been recognized as a place welcoming to both gay and straight clientele. There has been some criticism as of late regarding the doormens screening of clientele, but when I visit, the crowd is friendly and staff inviting. To keep the night moving along, I venture a few doors down to Dragon, Dublins premier gay dance club, and its everything you might expect: loud, flirty, and with great music spun by a roster of rotating DJs. Bars close at 2:30 A.M. in Dublin and the Dragon doesnt rear its fiery breath until past midnight, so plan your evening accordingly. For a slightly more low-key atmosphere, head to the second floor. Beyond the handful of notable LGBT-friendly bars and clubs, Dublin engages the gay community in a variety of other ways. Dublin is a small city, so the gay scene extends beyond the boundaries you might find in other cities, with gay couples openly being affectionate in straight bars in parts of the city, and a general widening of the parameters, says Finnegan, Theres also a wealth of once-off events and club nights every month, consisting of everything from pub quizzes to theatre performances, themed parties to tennis tournaments, and every feasible variation on gay social interaction in between. Mother, presented by GCN Forever, is an old-school club night where music and cheap drinks are the focus rather than fancy shows. One of the most exciting events to take shape in recent years is the International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival. Next year, the festival will celebrate its tenth anniversary under the leadership of founding Artistic Director Brian Merriman. In addition to presenting groundbreaking works, the annual event has also made strides to integrate the LGBT voice into mainstream culture. Reaching out to thousands of audience members, next years festival is poised to break all records. We were criminals back in 1993, reflects Merriman, We were not claiming our citizenship. The festival is creating new opportunities for visibility, and affirmation for existing and emerging gay artists and theatrical works. US Festival Ambassador Kathleen Warnock, who has also participated in the festival multiple times as a playwright, says, I think Dublins a great place for a gay theatre festival because the people really know and like theater. Ive had some amazing conversations about theater (Irish theater, and Irish writers) with all kinds of people: bus drivers, museum guards, bartenders. You generally wouldnt find that level of awareness in your average American city. You are now seeing original productions, and revivals by Irish companies, which you did not see in the earlier years. Dublin is also home to GAZE Dublin International Film Festival (it recently celebrated its 20th anniversary), which presents new independent features, documentaries, shorts, award winners, and experimental films. As I sit in ONeills old Irish pub enjoying my final meal (a heaping bowl of Irish stew and obligatory shot of Jameson Irish Whiskey), I cant help but pause and take stock of this brilliant city that has so embraced me. Dublin is many things: scruffy and sweatpants, Guinness and rugby, gay and straight, sophisticated and lowbrow. It is unashamedly all of this and more. At the festival gala the previous night, Merriman had said, There are two foes in the theatre: what youre worth, and what youre willing to give. But in Dublin, there is always a space to have a voice here. I believe he was speaking about much more than the celebrated productions, for Dublin through the ages has given voice to literary giants, artistic visionaries, and a sturdy working class who will joyfully join you for a pint of beer and a chat any time of day.

Il Valentino

Photo: Mathew Wexler

ingenuity and craftsmanship. In 1759, Arthur Guinness signed a 9,000year lease on a dilapidated brewery at St. James Gate for an annual rent of 45. Today, more than ten million glasses of Guinness are consumed per year. While the creamy stout has become synonymous with Ireland, most dont know of the Guinness familys impact on Dublins development. Their contributions have included donations to Saint Patricks Cathedral, Trinity College Dublin, Dublin hospitals, and the landscaping of St. Stephens Green. The Guinness Storehouse opened in 2000 as a tribute to the centuries-old brew. While the self-guided tour flashes with consumerism, head to the GRAVITY Bar for panoramic city views. While sipping a frothy pint from the top of the Guinness Storehouse, I plot my retail expeditions among Dublins pedestrian-friendly city streets. There are two major shopping districts, although independent retailers can be found on many side streets. Dublin has miraculously maintained a good number of old-fashion music stores, independent and used bookstores, and of course, the requisite Celtic Whiskey Shop where free tastings are offered daily. On the south side, youll discover Grafton Street, which is filled with stores representing international labels. North of the river Liffey is Henry Street, packed with Irish chain stores as well as Dublins oldest department store, Arnotts. ith the latest fashion in hand, I am ready to explore Dublins small but lively gay nightlife. Brian Finnegan, Managing Editor of GCN (Dublins longstanding LGBT publication) says, The chief attraction of gay Dublin, to my mind, is that youll always find somebody ready for a chat. Unlike the buffed and beautiful gay meccas of the world, where people in the pubs and clubs judge you on how you look before they talk to you, Dublins gay scene is a haven of friendliness where you wont be left standing alone in a bar for long. Theres always somebody who will come up and break the ice, and before a night is through, youll most likely have a whole new group of friends. Finnegans perception couldnt have been truer than at The Front Lounge, a cozy hangout where a friendly woman quickly adopts me and takes me along to meet her two gay brothers. Before I know it, we are all doing shots of Baby Guinnessa sweet concoction of Tia Maria topped with whipped Baileys Irish Cream. Dublin is also known for its phenomenal drag scene, anchored by Panti Bar, home to an ingenious alter ego created by Rory ONeill. The bar is always buzzing with an enthusiastic mixed crowd that flocks to the various themed evenings. I happen to catch a smoldering Dynasty-inspired Alexis and Crystal catfight, but youre always likely to find an uproarious show. The weekly line-up includes
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GREAT WEBSITES & MORE!
Gay Community News is Irelands longest running gay publication. The website and iPhone/iPad apps cover what is hot in music, fashion, and nightlife, while the free print version (available at most gay bars) also includes editorial features and reviews. www.gcn.ie Visit Dublin, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-4370969. Access the website prior to travel for great hotel deals or visit their tourism center, housed in a beautifully restored medieval church. www.visitdublin.com Discover Ireland, 1-800-SHAMROCK. Find travel tips and sample itineraries whether youre on the hunt for the best Irish whiskey or want to explore the craggy coastline. www.discoverireland.com Outhouse, 105 Capel Street, Dublin 1. Tel: +353-1873-4999. Dublins LGBTQ center is a meeting place for dozens of social and support groups and also houses a caf. www.outhouse.ie The Dragon, 64 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-478-1590. Dublins premier gay dance club overflows on the weekends with patrons who want to experience the lavish interior and rotating live performances. Expect to pay a nominal cover from 5-10. The Front Lounge, 33 Parliament Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-670-4112. A comfortable space welcomes gays and their friends for a casual yet upscale pub vibe. Two-for-one cocktails on Thursdays. www.thefrontlounge.ie The George, Great Georges Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-478-2983. The anchor of Dublins gay nightlife, the bar has been a mainstay for 25 years. Dont miss Sunday night bingo with drag performer Shirley Temple Bar. www.thegeorge.ie Panti Bar, 7-8 Capel Street, Dublin 1. Tel: +353-1-8740710. Great drag shows await at this popular hangout with different themes each night. www.pantibar.com Probus Wines, 26 Fenian Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1662-9649. Head to this specialty shop for hard-to-find beers and other quirky libations. www.probuswines.ie Sheridans Cheesemonger, 11 South Anne Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-679-3143. Locally made cheeses and other artisan products can be shipped back home. www.sheridanscheesemongers.com

MUST DO

The Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, info@dublinpubcrawl.com, Tel: +353-1-670-5602. Recall the lives of Beckett, Wilde, Joyce, and others on this joyous romp through Dublins most unique pubs. Try to book when founder Colm Quilligan is leading the tour. www.dublinpubcrawl.com
Fabulous Food Trails, 44 Oakley Road, Ranelagh, Dublin 6. Tel: +353-1-497-1245. Expert guides lead a culinary walking tour of Dublin, highlighting the citys history and its relationship with food. www.fabulousfoodtrails.ie Guinness Storehouse, St James's Gate, Dublin 8. Tel: +353-1-408-4800. Irelands number one tourist attraction, head to the top floor GRAVITY Bar for panoramic views of Dublin. www.guinness-storehouse.com The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great Georges Street, Dublin 1. Tel: +353 1-878-8547. Learn more about the author of Dubliners, Ulysses, Finnegans Wake, and their famous characters at this charming Georgian home. www.jamesjoyce.ie Kilmainham Gaol, Inchicore Road, Kilmainham, Dublin 8. Tel: +353-1-453-5984. This prison tour is a haunting reminder of Ireland struggle for independence. www.heritageireland.ie National Gallery of Ireland, Merrian Square West, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-661-5133. Enjoy free admission to an impressive collection of Western art dating from the Renaissance through the 20th century www.nationalgallery. National Photographic Archive, Meeting House Square, Temple Bar, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-603-0200. Ongoing exhibitions from the National Library of Irelands 600,000-piece collection. www.nli.ie Saint Patricks Cathedral, Saint Patricks Close, Dublin 8. Tel: +353-1-453-9472. Founded in 1191, this historic church played host to the first performance of Handels Messiah. www.stpatrickscathedral.ie St. Stephens Green, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-4757816. This Victorian 22-acre public park in the heart of Dublin is the perfect respite during a day of sightseeing. www.heritageireland.ie Trinity College Library, College Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-896-2320. Irelands oldest university houses the Book of Kells, a ninth-century illuminated manuscript created by Celtic monks. www.bookofkells.ie

GETTING AROUND

DINING

DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit), Tel: +353-1836-6222. Use this commuter rail to reach Howth or transfer to other Irish Rail lines. www.irishrail.ie dublinbikes, Dublins public bike rental system is perfect for a more adventuresome exploration. www.dublinbikes.ie Dublin Bus, info@dublinbus.ie. The public bus system is easy to use and will only cost you 60 per ride. Make sure you have exact change. www.dublinbus.ie Dublin Bus Tours, 59 Upper OConnell Street, Dublin 1. Tel: +353-1-703-3028. Your two-day pass will take you to 24 stops throughout the city. Hop on or off at your leisure and book online for a 15% discount. www.dublinsightseeing.ie Leap Card, customer.care@leapcard.ie. This prepaid smart card can be used on DART, Dublin Bus, and Luas. www.leapcard.ie Luas, info@luas.ie. The citys light-rail system with two major lines. www.luas.ie

3Fe, 54 Middle Abbey St, Twisted Pepper Building, Dublin 1. Tel: +353-1-661-9329. Award-winning baristas prepare coffee tableside at this upscale coffeehouse that also features delectable housemade sweets. www.3fe.com
Avoca, 11-13 Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-6774215. A whimsical farm-to-table caf located within a seven-level shopping mecca of artisan crafts and lambswool products. www.avoca.ie Bang, 11 Merrion Row, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-400 4229. This historic townhouse has been converted into a multi-level contemporary dining space and features a seasonal menu that highlights locally sourced meat, fish, and poultry. www.bangrestaurant.com The Church, Junction of Mary St & Jervis St, Dublin 1. Tel: +353-1-828-0102. From the main bar and restaurant to Dublins largest outdoor terrace, enjoy dining in the former Church of St. Mary, where Arthur Guinness himself was married. www.thechurch.ie Crackbird, 60 Dame Street, Dublin 2. This popular popup finally gets its own coop where chicken is the specialty. Follow on Twitter at @crackBirdDublin ely bar & brasserie, IFSC, Dublin 1. Tel: +353-1-6720010. Converted 200-year-old tobacco and wine warehouse sets the stage for classic fare, conveniently located steps from the O2 performance venue. www.elywinebar.ie Il Valentino, 5 Gallery Quay, Grand Canal Harbour, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-633-1100. Classic Italian and French-inspired pastries are the mainstay of this family-owned bakery. www.ilvalentino.ie ONeills Bar & Restaurant, 2 Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-679-3656. A classic Irish pub with 45 beers on tap and traditional carving station. www.oneillsbar.com Thortons Restaurant, The Fitzwilliam Hotel, 128 St. Stephens Green, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-478-7009. Chef Kevin Thortons seasonally driven menu has earned two Michelin stars. www.thortonsrestaurant.com

ACCOMMODATIONS

Arlington Hotel Temple Bar, 16-18 Lord Edward Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-670-8777. Official hotel of the International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival, the wellappointed three-star lodging is conveniently located in the heart of the city. Book online for up to 20% savings. Rooms from 111. www.arlingtonhoteltemplebar.com The Fitzwilliam Hotel, St. Stephen's Green, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-478-7000. Modern design and impeccable service contribute to the Fitzwilliams five-star ranking. Ask for a room facing St. Stephens Green for a charming city view. Rooms from 189. www.fitzwilliamhoteldublin.com The Merrion Hotel, Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-603-0700. Four 18th-century townhouses comprise this meticulously restored property, which features Irish fabrics and antiques, gardens, and one of the most spectacular private art collections in the country. Rooms from 485. www.merrionhotel.com Shelbourne Hotel Dublin, 27 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-663-4500. History and grandeur reunite at this luxury property that overlooks St. Stephens Green. Rooms from 212. www.shelbournehoteldublin.com

SPECIAL EVENTS

Dublin International Gay Theatre Festival, May 619, 2013. info@gaytheatre.ie. This exciting Festival showcases the work of gay and lesbian writers and artists. www.gaytheatre.ie Dublin LGBTQ Pride, June 2013. info@dublinpride.ie. A week of revelry culminating in a parade and post-party in Merrion Square. www.dublinpride.ie GAZE: Dublin International Film Festival, August 2013. info@gaze.ie. A program of Irish and international LGBT films. www.gaze.ie Taste of Dublin, June 2013. tastefestivals@brandevents.ie. Dublins best restaurants and chefs gather for a four-day festival of food. ww.tasteofdublin.ie.

SHOPPING

Arnotts, 12 Henry Street, Dublin 1. Tel: +353-1-8050400. Dublins oldest department store has been a shopping destination since 1843. www.arnotts.ie Celtic Whiskey Shop, 27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1-675-9744. Charming shop with the most comprehensive whiskey range in Ireland, with Irish, Scotch, and world whiskies. www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

GLBT NIGHTLIFE

Davy Byrnes, 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2. Tel: +353-1677-5217. This Art Deco pub was famously frequented by James Joyce and now holds an art collection worth millions. www.davybyrnes.com
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