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APPETIZER EnTREE
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| makes 4 servings
1/4 pound feta cheese 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano 1 tablespoon chopped, oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes 1/4 cup chili and garlic olive oil, such as Sotto Voces Olio Buon Gustaio Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the feta in a wide, rimmed bowl. Sprinkle the garlic, red pepper flakes, oregano, and sun-dried tomatoes over the top, drizzle with the oil, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Let sit at room temperature for 1 hour, then serve with toasts.
note: The feta can be assembled up to a day ahead, without the salt
and pepper, then brought to room temperature and seasoned 1 hour before serving.
| makes 4 servings
Preheat the oven to 325F. First, braise the beef. Heat a large, heavy-bottomed pot with a tightfitting lid over medium heat. When hot, add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, or until the bacon grease coats the bottom of the pot. (If there isnt enough grease, you can add 1 tablespoon canola oil.) Scoot the bacon to the edges. Season the beef to taste with salt and pepper, and add it to the pot. Brown the pieces of beef on all sides, turning occasionally, 15 to 20 minutes. (You may need to work in batches.) Transfer the beef pieces to a paper towel lined plate and set aside. Add the onion, carrot, garlic, and mushrooms to the pan with the bacon, season to taste with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to soften, about 10 minutes. Add the tomato paste, peppercorns, juniper berries, rosemary and thyme sprigs, and porcini powder, and stir until the tomato paste is evenly distributed. Add the wine, bring to a simmer, and cook for 2 minutes, using a wooden spoon to scrape any brown bits off the bottom of the pan. Add the stock, return the beef pieces to the pan, and bring the mixture to a bare simmer. Cover the pan and transfer it to the oven. Braise the beef for about 2 hours, turning the pieces once about halfway through, or until the meat comes away easily in shreds when you pull at it with a fork.
2 cups veal stock, Homemade Chicken Stock (page 185), or store-bought chicken broth 1 tablespoon unsalted butter for the mushrooms 2 thick strips smoky bacon, diced 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 pound assorted wild or cultivated mushrooms, rinsed, trimmed, and quartered Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley Polenta, Israeli couscous, or egg noodles, for serving
Transfer the beef to a plate, cover with aluminum foil, and set aside. Strain the braising liquid into a medium bowl through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing on the solids to squeeze every last drop of goodness, then discarding the solids. Set 23 cup of the braising liquid aside. In a large saucepan, cook the remaining liquid at a strong simmer for 10 to 20 minutes, until reduced by half. While the sauce reduces, make the mushrooms: Heat a large skillet with a tight-fitting lid over medium heat. When the skillet is hot, add the bacon and cook until crisp. Transfer the bacon with a slotted spoon to drain on a paper towellined plate, and set aside. Add the butter to the pan. When it has melted, add the mushrooms, seasoning them to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the thyme, and cook, covered, for 10 minutes, or until the mushrooms have given up their liquid. Remove the cover and cook until the liquid has evaporated. Add the reserved braising liquid and bring to a simmer. Cook until no liquid remains, about 5 minutes. Stir in the parsley and the reserved bacon. Season the reduced sauce to taste with salt and pepper, then return the meat to the pot, coating each piece in the sauce, and cover to keep warm. The beef, sauce, and mushrooms can sit at room temperature for up to 1 hour. Reheat for a few minutes just before serving. To serve, stir the tablespoon of butter into the sauce. Pile the polenta into 4 bowls, topping each with a piece of beef, a pool of sauce, and a big scoop of mushrooms. Serve hot.
| makes 4 to 6 servings
3 thick strips smoky bacon, cut into 1/4-inch dice 1 bunch (about 11/4 pounds) lacinato kale, cut into ribbons (about 6 packed cups chopped), rinsed, and dried Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup Homemade Chicken Stock (page 185) or store-bought chicken broth 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon butter, cut into tiny cubes, plus more for buttering the dish 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1/2 cup heavy cream
Preheat the oven to 375F. Heat a large, deep skillet or soup pot over medium heat. When hot, add the bacon, and cook for about 10 minutes, or until almost crisp. Add the kale, season to taste with salt and pepper, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring, or until the kale turns bright green. Add the stock, cover the pot, and cook for 10 minutes, stirring once or twice. Take the lid off the pot and cook the kale for another 5 minutes or so, until no liquid remains at the bottom of the pot. (You want the kale to be fairly dry.) Remove the pot from the heat, add the flour, and stir until no white remains. Butter a medium oval gratin dish (a pie plate or several small crme brle dishes or large ramekins will work as well) and add the kale in a roughly even layer. Check the kale for seasonings, dot with the butter, and sprinkle the Parmesan evenly over the top. Drizzle the cream over the cheese, and bake for 30 minutes, or until the cream is bubbling and the cheese is browned. Serve warm.
When you grab a seat at the bar at Matts in the Market, known for its sandwiches at lunch, look for the specials board. Filled with dishes inspired by the Market, like this unctuous fall dessert, it usually holds my favorites. Top the pudding with ice cream (Matts often uses a homemade pecan-mace variety) and caramel sauce, and youve got a recipe for a happy crowd. Mace is a spice made from grinding the outside covering of a nutmeg seed; it has a similarbut not identical flavor. Substitute nutmeg in a pinch. Also, if you cant find brioche, challah will work, but because of its light, airy texture, brioche is really the best choice for this recipe.
active time 20 minutes
| makes 12 servings
1 pound 1/2-inch cubes butternut squash (from a roughly 2-pound squash) 11/2 cups heavy cream, divided 3/4 cup sugar 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small cubes, plus more for buttering the dish 3/4 teaspoon ground mace 6 large eggs 1 (24-ounce) loaf brioche, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
Preheat the oven to 350F. Arrange the squash on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake on the middle oven rack for 30 minutes. The squash will be softer but not completely cooked through. Transfer the squash to a small bowl and set aside. Turn the oven off (the bread will need to sit to absorb all the liquid). While the squash bakes, in a small saucepan, heat 1 cup of the cream and the sugar over medium heat, stirring frequently, until you see tiny bubbles around the edges of the cream, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat; stir in the remaining 1/2 cup cream, 2 tablespoons butter, and mace; set aside. In medium bowl, whisk the eggs to blend. Add the reserved cream mixture to the eggs in a slow, steady stream, whisking continuously until all the cream has been added. Place the bread cubes in a large mixing bowl, pour the batter over them, and very gently turn the cubes once or twice to distribute the liquid evenly. Let the bread sit for at least 1 hour (or overnight). Preheat the oven to 350F again. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish (or similar), and transfer half the bread mixture to the dish. Scatter half the squash over the bread, then add the remaining bread, then add the remaining squash. Cover tightly with buttered aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake about 10 minutes more, or until the bread is lightly browned and puffed in the center. Let the pudding cool for 10 minutes before serving.
JeSS tHoMSon
is a Seattle-based freelance writer and cookbook author. Her work has appeared in such publications as Sunset, Sunset Food & Wine, Cooking Light, Light Edible Seattle, and Seattle Metropolitan magazines. She is a contributor at Leites Culinaria, where her work was chosen for inclusion in Best Food Writing 2008 and 2010. Jess is the author of the food blog hogwash (www.jessthomson.wordpress.com), where she pairs food and life. She is also the author of Top Pot HandForged Doughnuts: Secrets and Recipes for the Home Baker. Baker
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www.sasquatchbooks.com