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=-:3=^==-
^^^^^1
A
MAL
9 5 9 7
LIBRA
RY
FACILI
Mrs.
W.
B.
PRYER.
'^--1
Corporation
http://www.archive.org/details/decadeinborneoOOprye
A DECADE IX BOENEO.
f()I^I;l(;nT.
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Ill*
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ihr
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Snpi-.'iui'
Court
lloii-r.
lou.nkuiip-.
DECADE
IN
J!V
DORNEO
Mrs.
\V.
1!.
PRYHR.
->ti*-^3A'-\'^EE= *<f*
].t)N
DON
lliiM.Kti.M; SIIA.\<;HM.
yi)l\i>ll.\MA
.(
sIM.AfoKi:.
18o:j.
PREFACE.
Tins
niMi-c
little
^'^^^"^
[>icsiimc to o'ivc
with
acquisition of
to
North Borneo
the
an.d
the
formation
l)e\'()n(l
of the
which
])oint
tinie
has
)-et
arrived
when
I
it
ottering"
m\
" 77/r
tor his
courtesy
pa[)er.s
in
allowing
me
to re-
produce certain
in
which
oi'iglnally aj)i)eared
the columns
I
ot
his paper.
the xaried
work
ot a
in
large Coftee
operation,
little
and ?^Ianila-Ilemp
lull
and
book max
agricultural
least
have the
effect of attracting
to the unri\ ailed
tertik'
adxantages
ol
this
land.
.\i).\
Pk\i:k.
Kat-kli
1
Rivi.r
^^l,AI)I:
l^sTAri:
1363512
INTRODUCTION.
TIic names of Fryer and British North Hornco arc in my niind ahnost synonymous. Wlien s(Mnc )'ears ag'o I sat down under the
inspiration
of Sir Alfred
Dent
upon die new Company of exploration and settlement which was pul)lished under the title ot "The New Ce)'lon," the travel notes and experil)ook
ences of
were among the most valuable documents with which I had to deal. Captain W'itti's diaries were intensely interestiNIr.
W.
B. Pryer
ing.
The
Austrian
officer
looked
at
things
thrown
in;
moment
great
])oriieo
([uestion.
mining,
the
ot
culti\ation of this,
influences
INIKoDlt lloX.
The
of the
first
white resident
in
tlie
territories
North liorneo Conipan\- and one of its most enthusiastic officers, Mr. Pr\er, in taking up an independent position in the countr\ as he now has done, should be able the better His faith in tlie future to advance its interests.
British
lias loni;-
l)een estal)lished
l^)-
in the
is none the less work of realizinq; their one of the most patriotic ot
Pryer
in
tlu-
following
pages has
ol
atlded mucli
keeps
feel
well
\iew
the
the
main objects
Britisli
the
sion.
fouiiders
I
of
latest
in
possesto
honoured
being asked
write
a few lines b)- wa\- of Preface to a work which so happily combines utilit\- with romance, and constitutes a new and stirring chapter in tlu-
history of the
]\Iy
luistern Seas.
for
it
feeling
Borneo
is
more
or
loss
sentimental, but
elTorts of
iirst
great
London
Colony,
new
national possession
l)it
out to a
new
cemetr\
men
new
state.
lNTrv()l)l< lloN.
Ill
It is
a piece of gTcat
Prycr has
been spared
to
put
tlie
finishinL;'
home some
and the
Dent,
leaeues
who had
cauo^ht his
own
faith
Sir Alfred
Baron Overl)cck, Mr. \\\ .M. Crocker and others in the future of North Borneo as a competitor
for
JOSEPH HATTOX
Garrick
Cr.ur..
Loxdox
1893-
OO^TTIil^^TH.
(
iiArTi:i;
i.
Cum;i;\i,
l?i>riif().
anu iMuourcroia.
l'ii;j,';if'ttn.
of.
IJcockiiiuii.
lii';id-liiiiitfrs
liy.
Kxtnuts
. Di-iircd-.itioiis
from
lii.t(ii'y.
I'imtf-;
;uiil
I'upulatioii
destroyed
Six'iiccr
and
ClIAI'TKi;
II.
SlATniN(i
Kittill^'
IIIK ('(ll.dNV.
out
till'
expedition.
Its
lueiiihers.^Tlie America."
OhtaiiiiiiK the
Spaniards and Sooloos. Pearls. Installation of A\'. at SatiDfufs lioiise Hair adopted. Sandakaii. its tradr. dakan.
act of adiniiustration. -Notitication f. ^W. Kniaum Jelaiif-e. Skirnnsh with headto be l))irnt out. Mahoinedan eiviliKstablishini,' law and order. hunters.
Ale.
eonee.s.-iions.
War
between
The
tirst
zation.
see.s
h\
Adnunisterinir Nakoda Meyer's estate. .\ndersou the devil. I'drdsnest ea\es. I'angeran Saina. atroeiticn
l-;\pedition
...
against.
.'.
'i'he
Kina
Piatani^'an
oi)ened
ti-
trade
CllAl'TKi;
III.
'oiieelion
lake. Noii-i'xistenee nf. proved, eoniniented upon by I'resiih'Ut (ieoi^raphieal Soeiet\ Visit of the ' M(iV({}iix del Ihicro." Buludnpies. I'oal. r.ombardinent threatened. The dan.yer averte<l. Explorallead-huntin;iraid. i>ahi
Kina
of.
Lin,i,'ealio.-
Lalmk
ri vi-r.
Sea tii,'hts. Pirates getting troublesome. tion for new site. The IJaliirnini. raid by. deseription of The Jllannns. .Mr. Cowie reeajitures (']>portune arrival of the Fur J-Ja-it" Sandakan burnt. l're.<ented with a baroni,'. a boat. I'uttinjj;- dnwn the lirst tree Iteniiival to new site.
iM
ClIArTKll
Seleetiou of
tables.
IV.
El.OIMKA.
The
uew
towii-site.
.V
masked
battery.
Tnniiiiu
ihe
Spanish
ship
" .S'//r//r/.'"^l).ito
i;a.<ehid. Arrival of II. .M.S. ' Visit of Visit to Silain. Ileiid'oreements for the poliee. H.M.S. h'ljcriii." Visit to the I'jiper Kinabataniran.
ii
ON'TKXTS.
Paugf'i-un
tn-iulifi-v
S:iiii;ili.
oiitwittiMl.
iimm'ali <)nanM(.t<'
i^taiit.Ml
aii'l
AiiL'soaii.
I'oiiipaiiy's
Cliartci:{^
llAI'TKi;
\'.
Bii!i)sNi:sTiNt;.
and a Hunt
jn Uoiinko.
IJornnan
Lazy Eraliaus. A native Hliinoferos siimatramis in A terrible weapon. Gay dresses. Visit to SegaInng birds'-nest eaves. Native boats. Panureran Xativi; wax candles. Limestone eaves. (iiant island. Native A rough scrand)le. Tiiuba yarns. Oysters. Fishing. Visit to Madai birds' nest caves. Dangerous rock Keema." Sea produce.
liousi'-boat.
P>eaiitifiil
scenery.
I'ig luintiii,;,'.
J'.ornco.
recei)ti()n.
I.ant.
orcbi<l.
inata.
beaittifid
I'^Ii'phants.
climbing
''
CII.M'IKR Vl.
I'l'
I'lii;
l!ivi:i:
Ivi.na
Batancan.
Its lei,'end.
Tlir
:\Iimiiamr. .Mangrove ^lelapi. P)atu 'J'mnmungong cave. of birdsnesting. Con AVcalthy natives. ferring a patent of nobility. Sebongan. (Crocodiles. AViid animals. Orang-utans. Lamag. llhinoceros for dinner. A river flood. Crocodile steaks. Crocodile hunting.- Our noah's ark. Miss Champaka's wooing. Reluctance of dogs to swim rivers. A i>roboscis nu>nkey's dilemma. SandOrdeal by boiling water. Short of food. Toiling larder. Tin' gymnura. Spiny
launch
'
St/hinr.''
I'.alialla. The
I'erils
swamps.
p,j|f.t.
tli,.^;.
Keiiii-n-
i.shing
tlie
rats.
through mud-iiauks
'i"'
(TLM'TKll
VI L
Up
Forest
Tiiii
EiVKU KiXA
li\r\yGAS.{('iitiiiii(t7~).
l)aka's
Deserted gardens. house. Cham Malubuk River.ladies. Wild cattle. (^larmoto River. Alexandra Falls. Sonepis Tuid)unNative costumes. Tobacco growing. Sumnuuigup. A revolting custom. Kinabalu the Porneo Lanteens. of the Sick spirits. Vidlialla. Cotton. Reception at Domingol. Establishing a Karamoork River. Frightened children. A ma A duriau up the River Trade. Sundyaks. The river Native mode of clind)iug sliallows. Our return journey. Malay traders. Native
Orchids. over-rated. Bees' nests. Pint. Muniiali.^ trees.
scenery
lltu's
/wnY/7(7H.s-,
^vahs.
Tun.icaras.
I'.oats
l)omin;,'ol.
l''air.
in
luiliii/tti.
Fiu-lluu-
river.
fi'ast.
trees.
77
CONTENTS.
CIIAIITKU
VIII.
Ill
Foniior populatiDii. Physical cliaractcrs of Forest Dr. Eey's A ohaiifre for the Trade with ^vor^e. Ws. arrival. Sad deeay of the native po|iulation. Origin of the lUdudiipies. Born of Satan. Clever Sea Gypsies niakers. The Bajows coloured of the I'ajows. Leirend of Ayesha. Ibrahim's story. The lialignini Skill as lishernien. Oniadal settlement. Unpleasant experience. ]?ajo\v raid on Bulungan traders. ^( iiasing the pirates. Fired on by police. Escape of the pirates. Silam in a state of siege. Threats from Omadal. Ueinforcenients Native The woiihmi the forest. Arrival of S.S. Puhiunii. sent
]'.iilu(lui)i('s.
tin;
15n]u(liii)ifs.
ivscari'lic-;.
iirwliieo.
C'liina.
I'hiiu'se settlers.
tire-
sails.
Ori<,'in
S])earin.ii; fish.
jiirates.
allies.
for.
in
'.
(llArTKlt
I.X.
slaiul
turist*.
Bad characters. Pugnacity. Sea fight. Pirates. Ha: dsome barongB. Coast Sool, AgriculPhyt-iouo of Sooloo Village. Am<niability. of Sooloo language. Pearl Sooloo. Pioneers diving. Pearls. Ponies. Vicionsiiess of Spaniards.
of
Costumes.
os.
in
L')ilticultie.'(
Amuk. Faithfulness
of S,,oloos. AiUH-dote.
Tralousy
...
112
CHAPTKK X
Malays.
costume. Religion. AVomen's Appearance. Character. Contentment. Jlusic. Prodigality of nature. Indolence. Domestic relaT-angunge. Property. Dancing-houses. .Massage. KdiiChildren. Kindness. Divorce. tions. Polygamy. .Vnecdote. Marriage. Ornaments. cation.
Needle work.
Sirih chewing
122
(ilAPTKi;
XI.
SiXG.U'OHK TO SAND.VKAX.
Scenery of
.linrickDocks. Beautiful roads. Street scenes. shas. G harries. Whompoa's garden. Whompoa's history. Animal c )llectors. No poverty. Meaning of Insects.
Singapore. Shipping. Odour. Changie. Johore. Hospitality. Local boats. Cockroaches. Malay prisoners. Crowded steamers. Labuan. Kesomces Gaya. Kina Balu. (lovernment House. Fruit Kndat. "Sunsets. Fishing
'J'igers
of.
trees.
I-'"
IV
(OXTKNIR.
(
II
AI'TKi;
XII.
Sandakan.
S:viulak;iii l$ay.
Fort
tioii.
KoiiKui
I'rytT.
CioviTiimtMit
Kc'ViMiiif.
(.'atliolic
sons. Itain.
Leni^tli
I')'
day.
Kloinna
Il>i
CHAITKlt
Snakos, scairety of.
(log..
XIII.
Ml.SCKI.I.ANKOrS.
Adxentiii-e with. Wild ven Ccntiju'dcs. Wild animals. C'rocoililc Man OrinijrutMn. Thivp ture funeral. Shops. jirocession. oaten by. Chit system Treasury notes. Anecdote. ]?aml)oo. turkey Turtles. Turtle ejrfrs. Wild
pijis.
N'atixi-
Hhiiioci-ros.
Atl
witl)
sliot
l)raj,'on
.
C'hiiu'se
Itattan.s'.
e.t,'.i,'s.
Asrar-Asrar.-Sea
l)ills.- Flower
l>at]iin<;-. Ikan
P.imtal
. iTinls. Huriilt;7
show. Ve-i-tal)les
<
llAriKIt
XJV.
('oi'Fi;i:
(Ii,i,'antie
Planting.
trees. I'rice of felliufr. Land seleetini,'. Selnjis aixl Peed heds. Mode of tree fellinj.'. Axes. Xativi' Ilolein;,' l?urnin,i,' off. Riiildiuir. and labour. Cliaos.
rentiees.
lininir.
I'lantin*'.
T-ihiTian
Coffee
|s;>
ClIAriKi;
XV.
CONCI r>lnN.
Iloiie.s
snjl
the
I'.>7
and the
llesiiurres
still
A DECADE
IN BORNEO.
(MIAPTKR
I.
Size
PiirSiifetta.
liimters.
from
divided.
contrai-ts.
Pirates
Early
l>y.
historj-.
and
liead-
Extratts
John.
St.
Uesperate state
atiairs in
\S~C>.
BORNEO
is
venture
my
many
on the
authorities
subject,
who
afford
much
as
reliable information
and arc
somewhat
is
difficult to obtain.
Borneo
to
A
tlic
DKCADK
r\ TJORXF.O.
and
It
it
N. to 4^
seen, runs
Ey
A\ay of comparison
may mention
size
tliat it is
rather
the
of
Great
Britain
divided as follows:
is
the
greater portion of
tiie
claimed by
Dutch; to the
;
West
the
lies Sara\\-ak,
is
above
part
his territory
situated an indepondaut
native state,
Sultanate
of Brunei;
-whilst
the
northern
size 11 th
on the
list
of
all
The
little
island of
Labuan
lies
is
Brunei.
wliole island
Pulo Kalamantan.
The whole
may
be roughly spoken of
is
flat
and probably not very healthy further northward it becomes more hilly, culminating in the grand mountain North Borneo is the of Kina Balu, 13 700 ft. high. most interesting and picturesque, as also the most
healthy portion, of \\w m
IkjIc
island.
ha-;
it
n.'ver
at
any time
been
thickly
was
first
discovered by Europeans
in
the island
China, and
Chinese
immigration was in
in various parts
full
swing.
and matters
(;:;.\i'.RAi.
and
ixtrodl'(T(iuv.
3
cipital,
Piggafetta,
who
visited
Brunei,
the
sa
tliat
contained
many thousands
of houses:
its
solid
wav
trade
and
aijricultuve
were
in
proufress;
and
and lawlessness repressed. For the next 200 years, or tliereabouts, things went on much in tlic same Avay, and Captain Beeckman,
Avho visited the B.injer-massing district in
I
TIG, found
if
somewliat
well
manner: the junk trade with China was maintained, and the country tolerably thicklv
inhabited.
He
Avas able at
once to
make
a contract for
3(7.
per
lb.,
wliich affords a
population.
During
tlie
change came
>
I
The
influence of Europeans.
Spanish, Portuguese, and Dutcli. gradually extended. The arrogant and grasping native Sultans and Rajahs came face to face with people as arrogant and grasping Monopolies were as themselves, but M'ith more power. declared and enforced; trade was restricted; tlie junk
trade with China put an end to
;
ways
and
as little or
A DKCADH IN liORXHO.
struggled for
own
About the b(^ginning of the present century all tlie poMcrs of evil seemed let loose to do their worst in the beautiful and fertile land on a scale rarely witnessed
in
the
world's
history.
Pirate
iiotillas
continually
sea
simply,
placing
whole
under
contribution;
the
against
the
of a
the
Dyaks of the
to
interior
large
fleets
for
of ascending
a
human
sacrifice
the
native
Rajahs
revenues
decreasing
their
extortions
the dreaded
Illanuns,
goaded
desperation
by the
to Batavia on
murdering
but not
'
all
own
nu'rchantmen. Ibund
their cost-;
the less
manly.
everywhere along
Of
])crs()ns kidiiapixMl
1.S7S,
late
as
tlic
year
and Hold
liaU" wi'it
Saiiihakoii.!,'
vivvr.
il
war
i'stiiiiatcd
"
thus niurdiTol.
One
Cmr
Kiirii]iraii
nunirii.
whu
liad
(;i:\i:i;ai,
and ixtroductouv.
T)
even
in the
Bay of^NLinila
"vve
itself.'
From
following
'
:
It is
manner,
it
has
now
is
carried on systematically
by the
November, 1827,
burned
chief of [)iratcs.
named
45
Avith
tliree-quarters
of a
kampong,
some
of
besides
men were killed, and 300 made prisoners, women and children. During my stay there,
was
visited
by two other pirate between them they had ISl- prahus of all sizes:
Bajah.
wlio dav.
:
the
Kylie
first
arrived, fired
into
the
estimated at 35,000
inhabitants,
3.000
10(3
Dyak
and there are here. Marpow, a Rajahs, each having from ;iOO to 1,000
men."
Daltoii's
Popers on Boruio.'^
' The followiiin; is a li.st of dt^prcdatioiis coininitted liy Illaniiiis "Oii'' Spanish h^i^' from nlunt% in six inoiiths of the year 1S14 ],()(() Manila: 20 smaller c-raft captnreil amongst tlic I'liilippincs proplc ki(lna))p('d from tlie Spanish Islands and sold as shivcs one lai'i^f boat from Macassar five or six smaller eraft. unih'r Enjilisli and the waterinif eidoiirs the boat's crew of an Kn,i::lish brii;' party of IT. M.S. Fnx"m all 2.') Europeans.'" As recently as ]S72 when \V. was travellinj^ in the Philii)pines. threi' villaires in tlie same island lie was iin were attacked at ni^ht by Baligniid. and partly burned, and several [lersons. i)rincii>ally yoiui;^ women, carried otl during the confusion.
: ;
to
6 With
'The
DKCADE
IX
BORNEO.
wc read
lias
Raj.-ih
ct"
under him,
1
Sed^i^en
10.
11^
calculates
l.")0.000.
In August,
his party
an expediti(jn.
had been three weeks absent, during wliieh time, besides detached hnuses, ho had destroyed 17 kampong- (village-^) with tlie wIkjIc of the men and old
Avonien,
the V(jnng
women and
The
prisoners.
No Dyak
head or
taken
tw.t.
From
them 700
Extracts
such
With
all
decreased, bur
tills
'
not
so
rapidly
but
that
years
after
we
find
the
large islands
Borneo
of
'
sp(jken
was immense," while tliat of North Borneo Avas From 3Ialludu to Sibuco and of as large.
to
be
tens
of thousands
tlie
but this
ir,
district
1S()0.
and partlculaily
not
;
Sibuco
but
part
(^f
by
liad
oidy
still,
\irtuall\-.
absolutely,
become
dc[)o[)ulatrd
[eoi)le left
however, there
Paitan, Sugut,
in
the
John testifies. and neighbouring districts, as Spencer Most of these have since disappeared. In the year 1810 a gleam of hope appeared on the South-Wcst Coast, Avhere Sir James Brooke interposed between the native
8t,
oppressors
and massacres tlien in progress took over the government of tlie Sarawak district, and established peace and order within his boundaries: thus accomplishing one of the finest, if not the finest, work ever undertaken by one individual man. Everyone has, I sup[)ose. read of the tough but triumphant struggles he had with the 3Ialay Rajahs, the Seribas and Sekarran Dyaks, wholesale murderers (now^ two of the most (jbedient and tractable tribes), and finally \\ith the
Illanun pirates.
lias
The present
l'oll(u\"e(l
worthily
flic
footsteps
of his
great
and further into the land. The i'ollowing extracts from Carl Bock and Witti, show tlie statt^ of afiairs existing up to virtuallv the
present time
'Births
:
burials,
cannot
more or
less,
a rule,
among
all
the tribes, that no youth can regularly wear a Aveapon. or be married, or associate with the opposite sex,
till
Head-hunting is the keystone in the edifice of Dyak and character, its perpetual practice is no doubt one great cause of the rapid extinction of the race. At a trivah feast not only are the captives mIio have
religion
the
be put to death.
at
Vide
J)F.(
AJ)i:
IN
l'.(Ml\i:o.
' The two adjacent districts of Nabai and Peluaiii have a feud; killed by Nabai IG ])eoplc, 10 per contra Peluan p<i<je 10. I said they could no Ioniser receive
murder of Ah Hook, a Cliinaman I'xige 10. Ankaroi complained that Jeludin and party carried off his wife and two little children, girls, and put them all
three to death in the cruel
manner
called
ambirno
^w/e
impression on
door-post
The interview -would have left no unpleasant my mind if I had not seen a human hand and forearm, perha])s a fortnight ohl, nailed up on a
2-j.
pa(je.i<>.
And
so
on
^^Z
I'lh.'^
^ ide WdtVs last Edpetlition. The Northern part of Borneo generally had been
gradually
cultivated
but
steadily
deteriorating,
less
tlie
acreage
of
the
land had
become
;
and
less:
on
East Coast, Sooloo Datos on the West Coast. Brunei Pangerans \vrung a large proportion of Avhat crops were raised from the unfortunate people irruptions of
;
parties,
and even
villages
full\'
was
and driven from place to place that soil was possible. 110 permanent cultivation of the Brunei itself degenerated into being nothing better than
so harassed
i\
poles
the
streets
being Avood-work
condition^
:
erections
above the
ri\er,
in a dilapidated
was but a large old barn the whole being a sad contrast to the prosperity and
Avhile the Sultan's
house
itself
!)
Paitau,
Labuk,
Sugut.
and
at
Kinawhilst
villages
wore arrived
Moanud, Blocking, Sogama and Sibuco, all of which had once been well populated, hi I not a sinjie "lali'ib'itaat Isft! Outside Sandakan Bay four
the
river.s
of doubtful character,
and
frcelv
wliose
fourth.
ranks
they frequently
augmented
whilst tho
and simple, under tlio charge of the famous Illanun chief, D.ito Kurunding, a man who used to show a barong with \vhich ho boasted he had taken 120 lives.
village pure
The birds' nest caves of Gomanton in the one direction, and of Madai and Sogaloong, in the other, caused the existence of two small trading communities, always
under tho protection of powerful Sooloo Datos, notwitlistanding which, however, they wore usually attacked, by
some one
either
coast.
this year,
two or three years. During was computed, that 100 persons had been murderod or captured by the pirates along the
or other, every
it
in
which
there
by head-hunters from the South, mIio took, amongst others, the head of the second most powerful Bajau chief of those parts, and once by Baliguini; and the whole country was one forest of millions of acres, in most of Avhich there existed, all told, but ten villages
;
them
built
10
llicir
A DIXADK
backs
felleil:
IN
BORXKO.
one to the
to those of
was imported, and was in exchange for forest and sea produce, at bartered prices never less than ^6 or %7 a picul. and occasionally Every man moved about armed, and as high as !$20.
All rice
caves,
Such
Avas
Avas
about to commence
to narrate.
Borneo in the Old Days, but a neAv era the liistory of which I Avill
now proceed
ClI A
VTVAl
Staktixi;
I-'ittiiiu
Tin-:
Colony.
nut
(lir
tlii'
f\|i-,'(li[i>iii. Tts
ineiiib^rs.
'I'li
.1
;//;/>."
()l)taiiiiii.;,'
iininci
War
between
.<ci-.
Sjianiartls
and Sooloos.
lii)nsi>
Dent's
lirst
fl)-
act
dl"
a liiiinist:-aii.'U.
IVarls. lnst:d'ation of W. at S.ni(!akan. The trade. adopti-d. Sandakan. Xiti:icatinn W. to be burn nut.
J.
Eniaiini Jelanee.
Establishiti.i;
I'anueran
law and ortb-r. Mahoniedan civilization. Administering Xakoda Meyer's estate. Anderson sees the devil. Birdsnest caves.
Sania. atro
-itii's
Tlie
Kina
I'atangan ojieiied to
tr.ib'.
DURING
tli3
in the country
had
at last a properly
out, in
1877. by ^Ir.
wliich
k.c.m.i;.)
was
cjmmund
of Baron Overbeck,
who
England witli a statf of two or tlircj. of whom my husband wa? one, to sec what could be cti'ected. The journey to Singapore was uncxeutful, but in November the party 'Consisting of the Baron Mr. Prettyman my husband, W. B. Pryer with Mr. Torry,
U. S. Consul at
Bangkok
left
12
All
jji:(
ADi:
IN
BoiiNi:o.
the prepavatiuiis
Dutch
.luurl'-'f
''
the luirbour
making
used,
ready.
"
was
freely
were made
next morning,
when
well out
opened and various guns and cannon brought on deck, Ment to the ca[)tain in a budy and demanded to be put
on shore at once, althougli the
time 100 miles away.
ncai'cst
land
A\'as
by that
difficulty,
the treaty
it
December.
1877,
^^as
obtained:
was
river,
this
critical
moment
up the
ll.yi.S.''
JIart
'*
river.
Before
she
rouiuled
last,
Brunei,
however,
the
negociations. had, at
just
;
moments
previously
othejwise,
STARTIXO
been
TJIE
COLONY.
13
oft'
much
altogether.
The
treaty
having
been
successfully
arranged at Brunei,
the
for Sooloo,
accomit
ILirt,'^
the
Consul-General
Borneo on board.
Upon
arriving at Sooloo
was
helped forward
tlio
negociations.
in
presented
The war that was then being waged some curious features, over a
fleet in
little city
Sooloo
thousand
The
(jver
actual siege
liad,
four
slept
and
Tiie
party
of
Englislimen
will,
were able to move about the island at whereas liad thoy boon Si)anish tliey wouhl have
first
Sooloo
Sultan
tliey
met.
During
which the
with pearls
this
visit
the
gave a dinner, at
plates
to
hundred dollars
thus settling
in Sooloo.
Awrl'-'i
"'
my
Coast,
receiving
only,
his
Resident
however)
11
and. on the
DKCAI)]-:
IN"
P.OKMIO.
A.ii< ri<;i"
liis
again
liauled u[)
coast
line
of
300
miles, infested
named Anderson, a
marauders of the worst type, being a West Indian black half-cast Hindoo named Abdul, and a
For provisions they had a barrel
:
do/en Snider
rifles.
The
(Dent
flag
Co."s
adopted
Avas
I.
the
o'd
Pauu
Shun
&
house
flag
At this time, the entire population of Sandakan Bay consisted of the inhabitants of three villages hidden awav in one of the numerous side arms of the Bay,
screened by mangroves ^a spot
specially selected
on
account of
its
being
difficult to
find
without a guide
it
had been a
to run
who used
The place had not long before been attacked by head-hunters, and a fierce battle had also been fought by its inhabitants against a fleet of pirates from the South. One of the was inhabited by a considerable villages, Oopak, number of Bajaus (sea-gipsy tribe) the second, Timbong, was the hcad-cj^uarters of a trading Sooloo, Dato Hadji ^[ohamed Ansurudeen and the third, Sandakiin proper, although it only contained 17 houses, was the
their cargoes across to Sooloo from there.
:
:
Its
population
was a mixed one, comprising, Chinese, Arab, ]\Ialay and Sooloo traders, while the amount of business done was somewhat out of proportion to the size of the place, as what jungle produce was permitted to be brought
15
out
tiie
of"
(edible),
its traders.
W.'s
act of administration
regulations imposing
duties
I
upon
trade
passing
may
At
called
first, but W. head men, pointed out to them that they had been hitherto exposed to extortions-
expressed
population,
at
together
the
and plunder
if
at the
hands
of
all
outsiders,
whereas,
they
'
all
interest a<
first
North
of a
new order
in the
country
Dl']
CUSTOMS
All
dut's as
PAHTMENT.
I.
Notification
vessels
arrivin,;,'
liere
will jiay
Tonnage
under
A'essels
,,
.'.
5S
SKi
foreign goods arriving will pay Import duty, 4 jjcr cent. after wliich tliey are subject to no fnrtlier cliarge. All goods, thr produce of the country, will i)ny, when expoiti'd. 4 per cent. All foreign goods landed at Sandakan and re-exported will pa> a duty of 1 i)er cent. No duty is chargeable on goods not hinded altliouuh they may be transhipped from vessel to vessel in harbour provided they are re-exported to foreign ports. All vessels arriving here from Foreign Ports must liand in a manifest of their cargo to the C'ustom House and no cargo is to be delivered without a permit from the ilesidcnt. All Native boats and i)rahns of whatever size with any carirn
All
on
boaril.
however
little,
it
arriving from any i)lace, must hand in may not !ir >ubject to duty.
a list
Sandakan.
lltli
Frbruaiv. 1S7S.
W.
r..
PKVKi;.
llr.'<idrnt.
16
dci'y
A
Intruders
:
DKCADK
tlic
IN
liORNKd.
traders
had
liad
to
tlie
give
long
to
:
credit
sometimes
rivers
Bajaus and others were oppressed by Sooloo chiefs who sold them goods at impossible prices, demanding instant payment, sometimes seizing tliem as slaves in default, Avhilc all were alike subject to attack l)y pirates, head-hunters, and freebooters generally, and, in fact, every person's hand was against everybody -elses and that all this had to be put right. Tiio
:
all fall In
\\
ith tliis
tlie
idea at
first,
but
advisibility of
cliief,
burning
W.
out
A\-as
freely discussed.
Their head
Emaum
was sent for liim in order to bring liim back, that his advice might bo lieard before any serious steps were taken.
Jelanee, being absent
at the time, a boat
Before his
arrival,
however, an event
to
]ia[)[);Miod
much
W.'s hands.
after
boat came in
attacked by head-hunters.
the
W.
men
them the
positions
they
village,
on purpose to meet
tlie
off' a\
such a possibility,
assistance of
lie
took some of
men he could
ith tlicni to the
Timbong.
There he
Avitli
found
everytliing
in great confusion, a
little
women were
into
boats.
W. made
short
the
17
forest,
and
after
sometime,
them some of
his
men
whence
he, at
commanding the there, Panglima Abdul Rahman, to come across with ohief
sent a boat across to Oopak.
a hundred of his
head-hunters, their mutual enemies. Next morning, accordingly, there was a general assembly; the Bajaus, under the charge of a Mr. Martin, who was in charge of a trading store, were sent round
up another arm of the sea and told to line the shore at the back of Timbong; whilst W., with a force of Sooloos, Buludupies and Malays, marched across from Timbong inland. The enemy had occupied some huts
in the centre of the island, but
drive
fied,
and the
tliat
effort
to
them
to be ordered about
by W. and
much more
the Bajou
easily afterwards.
chief,
Tuan Emaum,
or two later,
returning a day
to
W.
him
of evervbody
as,
who
where-
everywhere within
distance
of Sandakan.
The
Emaum
was a
scared at
first,
and from that time his men, up to 250 number, were always ready whenever required by W. The next step was to establish a Court of Justice. W. at first had some difficulty in making the head-men
B
18
uudcr.stand
A
that
iii;<,\i)i:
i\
i'.i>rm;().
lMti>li
all
justice
was
ocjiial
Inespi'Ctive
of
lio
nun wero
his
hetVue
it.
but
upon
decisions
and people sooner got int(j the Avay of obeying judgments than might liave been sujiposed.
The following
glimpse into the
'
extract
IVuni
W.'s
people:
diary
gives
lioinc-lifc
til.
of
tlie
Marcli
at
21
187S.
Sunday.
ill
Meyer
richest
to die. he has a
house and
with
apparently
the
man
airy house
partitioned
well
matti'd
scarlet
hangings,
pillows
the
iioor
and
strewn
Avith
silk.
and
in
bright-coloured silks.
there, a
ith
handsome
creeses, 6cc.,
a Nacoda.
was served
noticed the blight and on good dishes, and as of the room, tlu^ dignified but handsome arrangements di'termiiu'd carriage of the nun all accustomed to lace
and
polislied
I
civilization,
<.f everything, and the grave manners of the guests, all betokening could not but think more faxourably
of Mfjhammedanism."
dail} lite,
and the above-mentioned civilisation did not prevent three following the men from crimes of violence
:
siAiniNc;
paragraplus in W.'.s diary
riiK oi.onv.
1J>
rell-r,
one. to a
nuirdcr
up
country; one to a
trial of tliieves;
itself.
tion
happened about this came about in connecwith the abjve-nientioned Nacoda ]Meyer's estate.
The most
He having
W.
away
to
dead brother's goods into a prahu, proposing to sail to Sooloo with all these goods and thus defraud
the creditors.
Hearing of this, W. sent and told him meeting (;f those interested: but Ah Hung sent answer that if ho did come it would Thi-^ defiant be with 50 men armed with creeses.
come over
to attend a
to
pass,
or
else
W."s
authority would have ended, so, in the middle of that night, without any previous warning. W. called out a lot of men, including some (jf the traders who a\ ere creditors, and he and his party paddled across the Bay in three or four prahus, quietly landed at Ah Hang's
liis
men
with
Tiie
prahu
to
Sandakau
all
The Nacoda tried to pay a return \ isit the next night and had very nearly got his boat under the matshed W. Avas living in (which was built on poles
over the sea) with the intention of setting
it
on
fire,
On one
folloM'ing-
Anderson
saw
tin-
devil.
The
li
20
is
ail
:
I>1'.
ADi;
IN
lidlJMlO.
account
of
tlie
iiiteivicw
it
was
about
i)
o'clock
'-
lie
to
up the
own
devil
there on the in front he appeared like a rather strange dog, but, while he looked at him. his colour changed from white to black and he increased largely
godown
was the
at first
in
and his eyes became like blazing lamps. Anderson was afraid and fled to the house, where he
size
told
to conic out, so
he took
still, a pistol and returned alone, there was but in the guise now of a man or something like one, with his face turned the wrong way and his eyes like flaming lamps. Anderson aimed at it but the pistol
the devil
refused to go
ofl".
and Anderson
it
felt
liis
hair
rising
on his head
difhcult
s.)
that
liftrd
liis
cap
his
off
(rather
a(-com[)lishment considering
close woolly
made as though it was coming towards him and he made the sign of the cross on the grcunid,
repeated a prayer, and retreated backwards with his
face towards
it
until out
of
its
sight.
Meeting some
one on the
he returned again, but there was nothing there only a bad smell. He then came into my house, in an utterly unnerved condition."
jetty,
W.
and discipline, and after that to extend his influence to more distant parts of the territory; but,
besides that, in addition to holding courts, interviewing
21
the accounts of
notifications
tlie
station
and customs,
to
and issuing
sucli
from time
time as
matters to England.
As soon
as matters in Sandakan Bay had been brought into a somewhat better state, W. began to appreciate the
necessity of turning
his
attention
to
bettering
the
The
river, the
its
first
This
most important
in British
importance of the
large
were said
full
to
of natural
was, at
all events,
many thousands
of dollars" worth of
these
nests
The
had
to
Mere under Pangeran Sama by the dominance of a certain chief, name, a man of very bad character, determined and cruel, who levied heavy taxes on all goers and comers,
villages M'ere reached: these villages
and sought to bring the natives of the higher river nnder his sway. From time to time rumours of the atrocities he committed readied W. and when he sent up to demand the amount of tribute nests due to the
Sultan of Sooloo, but
now
transferred to
tlie
association
insolent reply
and
22
iinmcdi;iti'l\
i)i;c.M>i:
in
iwiunko.
;uli[U'(l an ari'ogaut demeanour t()^\a^ls Samlakau traders then in liis village, culminating in his plundering and illtrcating two of them, seizing The Jill their goods, and leaving one of them lor dead. other promptly come di>\vn to Sandakan and reported
tlie
if
man must
so he gathered together
composed of Bajaus, 8<)oloos, ^Malays, Bngis and even Arab traders, and with this polyglot force proceeded up the river to the he;ul-quarters ofPangeran Sama. ^NFelapi.
flotilla
It
took
five
ri\er.
but at last
Dato
Iladji
Ansurudeen's house,
that
of
Pangerau
cannon p()inting tVom some stockaded forts (jver the threatened to l)low \\ to ])icces as he river, and ha rowed bv. and went alxnit \\ith two creeses in his sash to keep liis men up to the mark. W. felt somcu'hat
I
.
uncomfortable as he
minute.
lIowi'\er,
h(}
[lassed,
A\as
allowed to
by without
molestation,
as
lie
finally sent
unless he [lersonall}'
made
The Pangerau made a great show of arming his men. fully ,300 in number, but who of inferior physique to the brawny Bajaus accompanied \V. Both sides had their spies out and
days,
he would
l)e
attacked.
On
W.
whole force to
^l'^
upon hearing word tliat he Projiarations of as imposing woukl come directly. a character as circumstances permitted were made to receive him. A large empty case, turned up side-ways
to attacking;
sent
in
and covered with red cloth, represented the table, inside which a revolver was placed out (jf sight, but ready to Anderson was in charge of liis hand in case of need. a guard of men, armed with rifles, who lined the back of the room, while the head-men, the cliiefs, and traders, ,s([uatted in a semi-circle on either side of W., and the
men, some 200
in
number,
all
fully
armed, occupied
any treacherous move, of Mhich he was fully capable. The appointed hour arri\ed, all ])reparations Averc Completed, but the Pangeran still did not appear, so another peremptory message was despatched, A\hich had the effect of producing him at last. He placed his gold-hilted creese on the table and kneeling at W.*.s feet kissed his hand and tendered liis submission.
After
this,
negociations
proceeded apace,
the
stolen
liis
relatives
participated in the robberies were fined, the was declared open to trade without duties or exactions of any kind, the birds* nest tribute (pu^stion was settled, and W. returned in triumph to Sandakan, having greatly increased his authority and power in the M'hole countrv, and that without bloodshed.
river
who had
II
PT
Ki;
III.
San)>aka.\.
Hi^cil-i)earl (ij'stcrs.
huntin<^
raid.
rivi-r.
Ilcail-
of,
provt-d,
<(miiiientc(l
liuludiii)i(?.>.
Socii-tv.
threat^ni-'d.
Visit of the ^'Marquis del JJuiro," Bombardment Tlio danger averted. Exploration for new Pirates getting tronblcsomo. Sea descrii)tion of Tlif Illannns. The Balignini, raid Opportune arrival of the Fitr Etixf Mr. Cowie recaptures a boat. Presented with barong. Sandakau burnt. Removal to U(!w Cuttin;r
.^itf.
Coal.
fightj:,
liy.
'
siti-.
down
the
first tree.
HAYING SO
liis
Sandakau Bay
to give
and up the
attention to
tlie
W. then proceeded
l.,abuk
In both
Sandakau and
ot"
valuable beds
unfortunately
in
spoilt
the
crop,
as
this oyster
rather
brackish
water,
salt,
and too
water, has a
season,
the cro[
lost.
The
:
follo\ving
is
an.
extract from
Ws.
On
tlic
way
across
the
the
island,
.SAXDAKAN.
25
Sandakan people in them pearl-oyster fishing. It was amusing scene, about 150 almost naked brown bodies plunging and splashing about in all directions, each fresh find being announced by a scries of yells, and. as oysters were common, there Avas much It was a very low tide, -with the noise and excitement. water about up to their necks, and the common plan
an
seemed to be to grope with the feet till an oyster a\ as and then to turn upside down and bring it up. IMoolah and Sandoo (two of our men) had not been at M'ork more than half an hour and had got nearly 100 each Moolah took bolder dives than most of them, groping along the bottom with his liands for nearly 20
felt,
:
There was one canoe manned entirely by women their children with them, many of whom, even of the smallest, -were kicking and splashing about famously in the water. There were nearly 20 people
twi).
who had
women had
got quite
a lot of oysters."
The main beds existed at Tingcabo in Labuk Bay news having reached Sandakan, of troubles up tlie and Labuk. W. combined the two matters and went ofi:" there, calling on the way at the island of Lingcabo to Lingcabo see after the seed-pearl collection as well. was a well-known resort of sea rovers, the chief of
the place being a Sooloo of some force of character,
open
to trade with
as
for
2()
A IHKADK
IN
I'.OKNKO.
tlic Sultan (if Souluo usotl always to have the pick of any captives brought by the Balignini at the same time, if the pirates caught a Sooloo boat at sea,
iustanco,
and deal "with the crew in exactly the same way they would if it had been a Bugis or Brunei one. After admoni.shing tliis chief to lia\c nothing to do with evildoers. W. proceeded on liis way up the
they would capture
it
Labuk to the limit of navigation f(.)r his boat, and then, moving into a smaller one, went still further up the river which is a very rapid one abounding in shallows. He
which had Imhmi raided b}' the so-called head-hunters and heard their tales and saw some of the wounded, mostly women and children, and then went on to the villages .>f the people who had
cncpiired at
tlic
\
illages
No doubt was
left
in
his
mind
many
good many different ways, of a\ liieh the custom known On his return as "sarar" seemed to be the principal. to Sandakan, W. sent up an intelligent native with a few men who opened a station between the two districts and prevented oppression on the one hand
and retaliatory raids on the other.
For many years past there
with rcu'ard to a
arrcat
Iiad existed
li(>
a tradition
lake said to
to the
eastward of
Mount Kina lialu. on some of the maps it was marked as being rrs much as lO miles across and was supposed
to be of great importance, with a large population on W. travelled within the limits of the lake, its banks.
as
t\>v
many
miles.
Enquiries
from natives
failed to elicit
SANDAKAN.
J.t
and W.
non-
made known
and was
tin;
Picsident in his
annual address.
About
tliis tinu>
most nnex-
both as regards
little tact
W. and tlie whole enterprise, but by a and judgment, and a firm stand, matters were
it
appeai-rd
a hostile bearing
[)robable
effect
bey(md some
tales
which seemed
to
bronght
tlie
to
him by some
the
district,
Buludupies.
^\ho
him
much
coal
sign of a true seam here, was found lying about. The Buludupies are a somewhat interesting race, they inhabit the district froni the Labuk on the North., some distance up the Kinabatangan, to the Segama on
there
the South.
They
and
are
28
and
their
i>i;t
ADi-;
in
liORM-.o.
consequence
tribe,
left.
numbers had been considerably diniini:>hed in at one time tliey had been a very numerous but now, comparatively, there Avere scarcely any
;
There wa> a small but very interesting communitv nftliem up the Segaliud river; they Mere reduced to dispair when W. arrived anumgst them and had
arm.
almost abandoned cultivation, as the Sooloos used to come and seize their products, as soon as ripe, on
one pretext or another, and in a year or two more no doubt they would have disappeared: but, profiting
by the new order of things, they pinched up their courage again and have gone on increasing their fields and plantations year after year, and are now quite a prosperous body of" people. They became great cronies
of
W.'s,
acting as
his
guides
in
in
tlie
forest
when
forest
craft
and native
and
telling
count rv.
In
addition
which
somewhat tended
was trying
intricruin"'
to detract
Dato Haroun
Sama was
and alto^rother matters were then less comfortable than at any other It was at this sometime duiing tlic early days. that an event happened whicli what critical juncture
increase
comi^lications.
promised
but
to
put an end to
Hritisli
all
as well as
interests
at
one
to
fell
swoop,
of the
\\hich
in
the
e\ent
turned
out
be
20
together again and
them
all
On
the 'Jth
man-of-war
visit, and attaclied no particular though being quite Avatchful as to anything that might happen but, in the evening, a
was
an
ordinary
it,
importance to
report reached
him that a
it
special
commissioner
Avas
was
to
take possession of
annex
it.
W.
at once
tlie
principal
who
and all of them promised to stand by him to the last man, the Bajaus, as usual, being foremost in their ofiers of assistance. An appointment was then made for earlynext morning for another meeting at Timbong. W. then went on board and asked the Captain (Capt. Lobe) if the report was true, and. as he said it was, W. lodged a protest against any such proceeding, and said that it would be resisted, if necessary, by force: Capt.
Lobe, however, said
lie
must stand by
his orders.
by
present, declaring
present government
rendezvous at Sandakan.
Capt. Lobe and Capt. Alejo, the commissioner, came to tiffin with him that day; to protect them he had to draw up round the house a large force of men
30
lie ('(mill
DIK
ADK
IN
lioliNKU.
rclv iipDii
tij
[)i-fV('iit
u[K>ii
tlieiu
bv
tlie
cxcitctl
Sooloos.
to
may
illustrate
ftx^d
mention
that, liavini^
in
W.
it
cooked.
Avere privately
Throughout all these matters Cape Lobe and \V. on the most friendly terms, while officially evcrvthing was done with the utmost courtesy. Far East " arrived at daylight on the Oth. The Shortly afterwards a message was brought on shore that, if the Spanish flag was not hoisted at noon, the "'Marquis del Dnero"' would open fire upon the town: the consequence of this was an immediate exodus of the women and children, but the men showed
''
the greatest
ui)
dcterminati(^n.
W.
tlu'
and the
of
obligingly took
[x^sition
the Hue
fire and covering [)art of t'ne town: and bodies of Sooloomen and Bajaus dressed in their best clothes, as is customary with tlu'iu when any fighting is toward moved about from placr to place in the town and
anuai<'-st
it.
The
threatened bombardment
after
not
occur,
and shortly
12
mv
husbaiul ncnt
on board
palavar with the Captain, in the course of which he was told that the Spanish fiag must be hoisted the next
day. to which he replied that he would do nothing of the kind. Tlie interpreter then said that if it was not
hoisted the Captain would have to take steps
of an
replied
tliat
to
him.
W.
SANDAK.VX.
the S[);uu.sh flag would not be hoisted nor
'M
Shun
flag
bo jndled
tlic
disou.ssion.
tlic Paou At hist, after a hjug Captain said he woidd be ofl" tlie next
(hjwn.
morning to report to the Captain-General of the Phili[>pines, and to ask for an increased force to return with, and at 4 a.m. tlic next morning, to W.'s intense relief,
off
and
strain.
eliii'lble site
for
mouth of the Bay, but had much trouble in flnding a place that he thought would do. ()n tlie North side of the Bay the hills were too stce[>
a
new town
the
and too
close to the
was too
for a
-svater
too shallow
them
all
determined to
make
tlie
the best of
and
start
at
harbour on
])ato
tlie
North
side.
Haroun
al
Sandakan, followed closely all that occurred in Sandakan and sent messengers to endeavour t(3 order, or persuade, the Bajous to go down to Tawi-Tawi, there to meet him, his leal object being to get the main body of W.'s allies away from him so that he could n(3t oppose any direct
movement
W.
So
far
the
pirates
not
been
particular!)
32
A DKCADK ]N BORNEO.
been
lield
of"
somewhat
white
in check
advent
a time that
men on the coast: however, finding after W. -was absolutely alone, they plucked up
Bay of Sandakan itself. To illustrate the ease with which the most terrible wounds heal amongst tliese rice-eating temperate people,
boats, cVcn in the
it
may be mentioned
men
the
reaching
from
laid
attention, however,
all
man
was
grew
and the Bay of Sandakan w as an attack on the town itself was absolutely blockaded The entire tribe of Bajaus had gone feared nightly. away rattan collecting, Iladji Dato's men from Timbong \\ ere all up the Kinabatangan and, on W's going round
serious,
;
able-bodied
men
left
in the
to the
and they
refused to
come down
three
or
to
help.
With
including
four
Chinese,
W.
Luckily, at
commencement of a
time forward
lie
felt
far
more secure.
SAXDAKAX.
These sea
figlits
;
33
a stern encounter
two
Avitli
fleets
tliemselves
opposed
much
boat, having
on
out
'
liero
am AUee
of Loke,
defy you
all,
killed
"
'
vour fathers and brotliers and am going all, and burn your village and carry off
to kill
all
you
your
'
young Momen. You set of boys come here and be and so on, only that Malay slain by a man,"
languages are nuich too courteous to lend themselves naughty " s^\ear '' words to very keen vituperation
being unknown.
1)0
would
dominating the
ducked behind
near
their
wood
barriers
finally,
:
thinking he was
enough, he would bla/e uway nuce his gun was empty the others would jump up and paddle after him as
fast
as
they could,
line, part
liis
his
own
of the
ardour of the chase, ho could entice one jr two of the other boats so far, that, before they could turn and
regain their
own
it
line,
which case
would go hard wlfli their crews. A-^ for tlie tiring, A\hat between the badness <>( the guns and the uncertainty of aim caused by the tippling
about of the canoes,
it
if
was Acry rarely the case that two boats closed, half the men
aa
ith
ghastly wound-;
rU
(
Dl'.rAKH
IN"
BOIINKO.
or long
cliopphiL^- liaruugs
the spring
"SV.
heard reports
tliat
an alliance
had been made between the Illanuns and the Balignini. I^Iost or ^icrhaps even all sea-goers of Malay race have
a Aveakncss for piracy
if
but these two tribes are the only ones that took up piracy
as
a regular profession,
tai
it
was
the-
manner.
au lUanun
(,.>r
two occasions they even fought stifl" actions with Jhe Balignini, on the other hand, ih'itish meu'of-Mar.
used to skulk along the shore cutting
carrying
captixcs
oft"
fishermen's-
tlieir
fui-
sale
in
Scailoo
of
and and
into-
dangei'.
fell
tlieir
hands and
diil
catch p<30ple to
sell
as >la\cs,
and
to this
the
Pliilip[)in('s.
.hna, Singapore
and
Pressure had
and as. in a(lditi<.)n to the loss they uttered in their numerous encounters with men-of-Mar vif all nationalities, they were constantly having fights amongst themseUes, they rapidly dwindled away in luimbers and in tlioi- latter davs liad not a shadow of
i>alignini, ho^\e\er.
;.
SAX
tliL'lr
I)
A KAN.
3,'
former ^trengtli
forces,
still,
-when
W. heard
rather
of their
his
fleet
jitining
he svas
re)iderc(l
anxious,
cabo for provisions, and sure enough shortly afterwards accounts came in. thick and fast, of a pirate raid on a
large scale
>.>n
the coast.
What was
to be
done was
not verv
cleai'.
W.
fitteil
the coast himself, but tlie Chinese and Malay traders waited upon him and dissuaded him as his going away witli liis six Somalis Mould have too uiuch enfeebled the place and laid it open to attack, and the value of the cargo in the shops had much increased, so there seemed nothing tij do but to sit down and wait. However, the pirates were not to have On the 19th May, three it entirely their own way. boats, travelling together for safety, coming into the harbour were attacked by five pirates, there were only about 12 Sandakan men against some ."iO pirates and one boat was captured with three in it. two other being wounded, but the other two b(,iat3 escaped the jiirates did not escape altctgether sc<jt free, two or three of them getting large slaslies. Their fleet was undeithe command of a man named Armee, >\ho also acted as pilot, he being a man tliat W. had helped only a k'W mouths before ^hen he himself had been attacked and some half dozen of his men killed. At this juncture the little ''For K<tsf *' turned up, and W. arranged with Mr. ("owie to look in aloner the coast V hercver he could, a arrant beinij ffivcu to two of the police to examine and, if necessary, apprehend any su.picious looking people.
u-oing along
mm
"s\
c 2
36
i>i:<_Ai)i-:
in
]5(rvNi:(.
Fxr I-Jusf^' As particular luck had it, when the ncavcd the mouth of the harbour^ two boats Avcrc seen, one of which was immediately identified by two of the Sooloos who had been at the fight, as their boat which had been captured. Off they Avcnt, and away went the ''Far East'' in chase. They were full of men and paddled hard, and one of them got round the end of Bahalla and escaped, but the other one, keeping toi:> close in shore, got inside a reef and found itself in a <-iiJ ,[( sar. ]Mr. Cowie immediately lowered a boat aud, taking command himself, with the two policemen, the two Sooloos, and some of his crew, cut her out from the beach under fire from the pirates concealed
''
in the bushes.
Two
encounter.
The
the
recaptured boat in
aud
ilie
next
morning,
:
W. in command, went back aud drove the islaud from end to cud, but the [)iiales had ocajtcd in the niuht. They found one of the boat's crew. ]ii)A\c\er, who had
with a strong force, with
the force landed
managed
gave
chief
slijt
in the
scrub, w)io
command
(if
I'mauui
T-dwi
Tawi and
A\as in
ie
of ])ato
Kurundiug
of 'J'uncu.
A barong
iluit
W.
on the
Sixty
ii\e IJajau
women and
families.
The
sold.
Buloougan
the town
aud there
Qn
the
l.'itli
<i|'
Avas burnt
down bv
accident, mo^t
oi'
SANDAKAN.
(lestrovt'd.
.>/
The
fire
saw
had occasioned, fearing that he would by the Sooloo.^. The scene was naturally 1)0 murdered one of great confusion, there was no time to save
anything, the
the
fire
upmost
its
rapidity,
from
-were
commencement
in
was
the
all over,
ami the
]);)licc
groping about
their
rifles, <S:c.,
to dash a hole through the side of his house aud drop his cliildren into the water through it to avoid the
flames,
^[auy
thousands
of dollars
A\orth
of
trade
the
all
W. immediately made up
be
his
mind
that
it
was no
Next at once made to the new Elopura site. morning, W., wondering what had become of Sabtu was asking after him, when from underneath a table, which
was covered
whose ends hung d<jwn to the floor, a small voice was heard stating that Sabtu was there and not only he, but his wife also, emerged
witli
a
cloth
in
my
husband's bedroom.
to the
Two
start
'21st of
was made
Bay.
On
the
June, 1879,
W
ii.
cut
down
the
first
tree on the
site of the
new
toA\
(" II
PT
!:
\l
\v
Ki or;
i;
\.
Scloi/tiiiii
'I'lii'
of
iiia>kii| liiitli-rv.
I'liviiini:,'
tho uililcs-J{aschi<l.
S]iini~li
- Sin-na.''
Arrival
() '
of
M.S.
Kisf n-'."
I'M-
rnipturc
the
S;nii;iirs
t
D.-ito
llin'oiii oi
Al
'rmicii.
<.t
Siliiiii.
ririiir.pnTiu'Mit-
luilici'.
Visit
\\>\\
II.
M.S.
S;i-
I'.ijcrhi.''
-\\>\{
to
tl'.i'
rjiinT
Kiimliiitaiiirnii.
rniisroraii
lii:ili.
llr.Ml-lliintii--.-
r:illL;i'r:lll
:it
rc.'lr Jici'V
oUtW'ittrd.
inlil.
Till'
Sl:ili(ill> otilhlisIliMl
'^'T'^lll'
spot selected
tlic
t"i>i'
the
situated
inile>
\^
Avas
al
luoutli
ul'
tlio
H;iy.
site.
t\\el\'3
Sandakan
do^vl^
The whole
district
tlie
primeval forest
to
town.
was
tlieret'ore
and uniuhal)itcd
\V."s
little
Hrst [)rocecding
was
some
distance inland,
(l(\ir
the grcnuid
of the fallen
truidvs
iliere. iutenti<>nally
llie
water's edge to
boats,
as
pirate
of which
there
n(it
Ho then see that anything unusual was in |)rogress. mounted on its stockaded in a rocky headland and
summit
three ginis in a sort of fort, one of thcso guns
i:i,oi'ri{.\.
IV.)
tlie fort
unmasked,
disclosed.
W. now assumed
all
tlieir
himself of the
t(
new comers.
Manic.'-}
and make good their claim to tlio country, ousting the British, while Dato Haroun Al Raschid, wlio was in tlieir councils, thouglit the time
th /])/!(, -o^.-^"
liad
come
for
A iccroyalty.
him to push forward his claim to the The consequence was that the Spanisli
Sirena "
for
left Sooloo, with the Dato on Sandakan, her intention being to
it
man-of-war
'
board, bound
bombard the
<)tluu"wisc.
A
in
Spanish iaterferen^o
North Borneo having been l-^dgod by tlie British Oovernment at ^ladrid. -was from thence forwarded on to ]\[anila. and tiie autliorities there, seeing that aa awkward crisis Mould arise if the ''Siren a" carried
out cut
her
lier
j)rogramnie,
<>tf
sent a boat
^lie
down
had
t<>
specially
call
to
at
Balabac M-here
before
40
DIX
ADJ-:
l\
liOlJNKO,
proceeding to Saiidukan.
prisc
'J'lius
was delivered
it.
over threatened
intentions,
The Dato, however. Mas plucky " Sircita and as the he left her, coming on with his
'
in
five
prahus,
to
which
duly
Somewhat
W.'s consolation
the position of affairs Avas then ^cry involved, neither the ])ato nor
tlic
Pangeran dared
taki,'
any
liostlle
step
on ^V."s side, while ah that any weakening of their forces might were afraid lend opportunity to the pirates to destroy them all. Under these circumstances the ])ato thought it best to sit down and ^ait and see Ashat might turn up and
what
allies
he could gain
three
Mictions
altogether a quadrangular
struggle.
The
freely
in
the
town
\ i.'^its.
met
together
of course
and tlie was on the alert to guard against any .suddt^n rush on ^\ his stockade and so matters went on for awhile
: .
leaders exchanged
W.
being pretty well informed by his friends of all the Pangeran's and Dato's movements from da) to day. At one of the public receptions the Dato asked W.
\\
hat
lie
would
(the
d(.)
.should he
and his
Dato's)
flying
place.
To
this
go straight for the Dato. AV, replied that Irwherever he might hai)pen to be, and blow the top This made the Dato of his head off with his revolver. pause in his projected operations until he should have
sinjuld
his efforts to
W.
at this
time m
a.s
I.LOIMUA.
41
tlie ciilical
t\VL>
on the point
ot"
brinn"
ecincntcd. ^\hen, at
moment, a
oil
[)er.suiial
Imaum
]\[clapi
turned
tlie
u[) at this
of followers from been sent for by W.), the position ^as greatly improved from W.'s pi.iint
arrived on
scene witli a
number
(both of tliem
havini:;:
of view.
at tliis time sc\eral hundred men at and the small number of houses were overKlopura.
There were
flowing.
A
Capt.
total
change
was wrought
" K'sfrc/,"
bv the arrival uu
Edwardes.
to ]\[ela[)i.
the
scene
of
II3[.S.
l?angeran
8ama
forthwith returned
and Dato Ilarouu. quite realizing that the game was up. hoisted up sail and Mcnt off to Palawan of Avhich island he assumed the government, and
remained
in
charge for
tlu>
He
lils
the
tlien
proceeded to
raids.
it
encjuire
into
lUunan
After
careful
high seas;
by
Avith,^
Captain Edwardes steamed down to Tuucu, their head-{[uarters. and attacked and captured the place,
destroying sixteen pirate boats with ready to proceed to sea.
I
fortifi(>d
sides all
Witli rri;:inl
iiiiil
til
tli'~r
riiiilil [w'l-r
Si'i-iha-
Unliunini whiii
:iiiil
I'lJijali
42
Thinking
DKi
A]>i;
IN
BOHXr.O.
this
influence southwards,
W. made
Bay
Silam hoisted
of the people.
from which time forward the was never again in doubt, and the very trying and anxious time W. had ior three years, during the whole of wliich period he ^^ as always more or less threatened A\ith attack from one quarter or another, came to an end. 'J'he town grew a[)ace and an era of rapnd prosperity set in, a grateful change after the long period of anxiety that had prececded it: jungle produce flowed down the opened ri^ers K'inabatangan, Labuk. and Sugur, and
this
from
Singa[)ore,
security of Elopura
t;ame
across
the
sea
to
no longer
ElojHira,
afraid
of capture
''
by pirates on the
E'jcri'i.''
Avay.
who then
rising
visitcMl
reported
that
he
found
town of
some
()00 persons
with a good
increasing trade.
from day
to
day
difficulties
and awkwardnesses of
all
many
of them
bearing upon
tlie
miscalculation
nr
the
total
absence of
any
any
one to
KLUIMUA.
43
in
tlie
loss
of
the
In
the
moments
of peiil
which
occurred
would have been upset, with the same result. Some short time after this, W., wishing to see for himself the state of affairs on the Kinabatangan I'iver, made an expedition up it. lie went in a steam-launch as far as it was navigable, some ]'A0 miles, for the whole of which distance the river is deep and sluggisli, the shores flat and forest-covered, and the waters virtually tidal. So far it was veiy uninteresting, being almost uninhabited, as there were only two \illages for the whole of tiiis distance. The swampy nature of
the country causes
it
to be verv unhealthy.
Arrived
at
for
down
it
mau\ miles past the [)oint where this river joined the main stream that po[)ulatlon commenced, but from here onwards there was a fair sprinkling of people. One of W.'s intentions was to make personal enquiries on the spot as to how Pangeran Samah stood M'itli the people of the upper river, and whether he had any real influence on them, about Avhieh he heard conflicting accounts. The Pangeran was a
until
was not
man
of peculiar
character,
who
\\ould
very
likely
As
it
44
Avasj lie,
DiK adj:
in
ii()|{m;<.
by
tlie
exercise
of several
iliifereiil
(jualides.
had obtained the chieftainshi[) ot" a tribe of" somewhat tiuaid people, in whose possession there happened to be
the Naluable Gonianton caves, producing soni(> ^25,000
brought
in
down a
to try
cijntinual
stream
high-class
prize,
marauders
this
and
the
endeavour
field for
them,
tlie
powers.
Owing
feet
nlO!^t
is
only the
so that
climbers that
secure
can
get
them,
n<v\
any
of
had and
to
then to
their
trasfer
many
them
i(jn
as
they
could
time,
own
pockets
iold
\\
..
after^\ards.
At
one
the
I'angcran
there were
at
powerful each
chiefs
with
numerous
followers
Melapi,
trying
fell
te get as
much
died,
as he
sick and
others
fonght,
their
and
killed
each other,
(jthers
were deserted by
followers
and
all
left
came
result^
as
W.
afterwards
intrigue
classed
by
the
W.
(n-
as one of the
murdered,
W. went
in all
he saw: the
on his way up the river mnch interested soil was extremely fertile, the crops
.
and
tlie air
ELOI'I
I{
\.
45
tJie
liiglu'i-
tlio
river
was ascoiulccl, and the nights Everyone went about armed, tlie
led to bloodshed,
human
;
tliere
was a
at
one house
he stopped
off
human
heads hanging up, taken from a neighbouring village. But on the whole he was very much impressed by the
possibilities latent in the
Mitli
some
he
was of
opinion
Fokien provinces.
W.
very
people,
little
of countrvmen.
as in order
\v\t\i
jiini.
and maintain a show of autlu^rity and to strike terror amongst them, ho, on several occasions, seized one of their men on some frivolous pretext and had him
liacked to pieces in public.
While
confidence,
visiting
different
viUages.
gaining
the
finding out
the ideas
of the people,
and
the
W.
He
raise
without
tlie
Pangeran
f )r tliat aftern<_)on.
He
at
46
tlio
iH.i
ADi:
i'.iikm:<.
]\inger;ur.-^
and
tlieir
mvn thou
tlie
PanunTUn's
asleep.
and entering
it
witli fonr
On
lip,
Pangcran sprang
drew his long creese, which he always kept at hand, and would have cut AV. down had he not instantly covered him with his re\olver. ^I'wo oi" A\ ."> men jumped un to
the
large
elevated
bed-place
ol'
A\aiting
\\ .'s
i\(^s.
order
to
whose
\\
springing
threw
oil'
licr
moment, and,
M'i/.ing
>pL'ar
from the
the
roof,
stood
W.
to
thi-n
at
men
A\itli
loaded
\\\\\.
rifles
aim
lliere
sin
\\
.
Pangeran, and
Avea[)ons
asked him
asrainst the
slanding
witli
drawn
Government, he
replied
tliat
The Pangeran
upon
hliu
was going
\\
,
li^ulii.
intending io murder
liliu
whereupon the I'angoraii. c\idcntly thinking his last nnjnu nt had arri\cd. sang a di^iih song to the effect that h(* hail always laid sway on the Kintibatangan
and
that
no
one.
oraug
jiutili
or
orang
Suluk
it.
(white
man
or Soolooi.
and a good (Kal more to the same ellcct. W. kept the Pangeran on lii> legs until he was fairly worn out and asked to be allo\\e(l to sit (low n and drink some
water.
behaviour.
o or three of his
up
their
them
if
thev refused.
Ki.oriRA.
^\
cliiefs
tlioii
47
[)lace
tlie
went
off
to
the
Pangeran's
it
Moic
to
assemble
at,
and reached
just
as
tliey
were arriving.
them they
that tliey would never again support the Pangeran in any project he miglit entertain against tlic Government. During his stay at ^lela[)i on tliis occasion, W. received fairly reliable information from tlie Pangeran's
declared
to his assistance
about that
Chinaman, without the Pangeran's all the information lie could from him. This was not the first occasion W. had delegated men, the only assistants he had had up to this time. to Mela[)i on different missions; but the Pangeran, a shrewd observer of human nature, had found out their weak points, and through them discovered what their i>rrands were, one of them yielding to wine and a second to beauty, but W. had hoped he might have relied oix Tlie Pangeran. crafty old diplomat, very n European.
find
soon managed to find out his weak spot also and sMon afterwards ariived at the knowledge of his
true errand.
tlie
but
instead
of
doing anything of the kind, had the man, who was in tlic \cry next liouse at the moment, sent away to the next village and poisoned tluit night.
As a consequence
at
of
tliis
trip, stations
at
48
i)i;<
Aiji':
IN
i;<ji;xi:o.
mouth
ut"
the
t(t
further increase of
May
Admiral Coote
in the
to
" \'i</ih(nt,'^
Sandakan, -went
in
notice
there
tliat
-would be alluwed
was increased to 10 men and linally the B. X. B, C was started in ,May.. 18S2, the Royal Charter having already been driven on the 1st November. ISSl.
CIIA J'TK](
BlllDSNKSTIXO.
AND A HUNT
IX BOUXEO.
Pig^
A Bonipan
houso-boat. -Beautiful scenery. Lazy Eraliaiis. suiiiatranus in Borneo. A native reception. A terrible weapon. Gay dresses. Visit to Segalun:^ binl's-nest caves. Native boats. Pan^eran Laiit. Giant Native wax caudles. Limestone caves. A rouzii scramble. Timba uiata. beautiful island. X^ativi- yarns. Oysters. Fishiujc. Visit to Madai birds' nest caves. KntMua. Sea produce. Kleiiliants. Dangerous rock-cJimbiuir.
liinitiii-c.
Uliinocero.-i
or<-hi(l.
.\
ON
a
Avith
ii
board a trim
c\"identl\'.
little
tlie
craft,
for
forepart
chiefly
Shanghai
house-boat,
not yacht either, for everywhere -within easv reach there are stands of rifles, boarding pikes, Sec, while on the
fore-deck there
its
is
a sevcn-[)0under j)roperly
for
fitted
on
traverse
b(.)at
m ould require.
England
is
We appear to be in a huge lake studded everywhere with beautiful islands, green to the water's edge except for the gleaming white strip ot
beach that marks the margin of the deep blue water. On the mainland close by is a fine mountain clothed
to
its
summit
Avith
high
forest
its
trees
feet.
and
..fl'
Avith
.i
Avhich
aao
50
lie
A UKCADi; IN EolJNKO.
anchored.
All around us are ranges of
liills
and
The
air is
altliougli
month
is
January:
crew are
jMalays.
We
^'
S<ili'ni<',"
bird's-
nesting ex[)edition.
(jumbah
also
in
with
cave
nest
they liad
all
gone bad.
liead
W.
sent
for
tlieir
chiefs
who had
and he
tangoonged
C(llection,
])ut
through much
liere
and
in the afternoon
quote from
liis
afternoon's sport:
''The leading
s[tirii-
of"
tlic
liunt
m;is decidedly a
Bisayah or Indian from the Philippines (better known to English readers as ]\[anilamen, though perhaps they
have never been near Manila in their lives) named Esnine a particularly muscular specimen of humanity, who entered keenly into the sport. The dogs Averc
four queer
little
in the
body,
and a half
of their eyes.
They were the property of Slieriff Byassin, We went to wlio armed with a spear, came with us.
lURDSNKSTlX;:,
look
for
AND
Avliicli
111'
NT
IN
I'.oKNKO.
51
tliat
buffalo
lie
Esniiic
had put
\i[>
thought he had marked douu, but it was verv soon evident that, -witli tlic dogs and the motley following of Si:.oloos. Malays, &c., not forgetting Esnine, we must make tlie best of whatever turned up.
uiorning, which
'
The
forest
was very
o[)cn
Ave
had not been a quarter of an hour in it when suddenly one of the little dogs gave tongue, and with a sh<jrt sharp little 'week, week, week,' away the whole pack
than
However, in less and away after them went we. minutes some of the notes became more longdrawn, while others were quicker and more yapping in tlieir tone, and it was clear the quarry was being On rushing up we found a little pig had baved.
\vent,
five
taken refuge amongst the roots of a tree with the dogs surrounding it, one of them occasionally rushing in
at
it.
Poor
tied
little
its
legs
up. and
was
left
under
we returned
again.
On once
it
more, and up a
steep
hill,
we got
dogs.
tlie
any
direction owing
the
tree trunks,
saplings,
tell
dwarf
palms.
so
we could not
wliat
Me
were after but following the dogs again to the bottom of the valley and then down stream, torn by thorns,
dashing wildly through the bushes, stumbling
in
our
making
'
sliort
'
little
dogs
weeking
away
front
and bringing
tlie
1)
game up
3
')2
DKCADK
for a
IN
iiUllN KO.
every
far
now and
;
tlicn
few moments.
Esnine was
ahead at last there was a sliot, and on getting up we found that a large pig had been bagged. The little dogs had been unable to hold tlie ])ig at bay. but as
it
it
M'ith
his
spear,
Avhereupon
it
He dodged
and again sent his spear Mell in. but befjre it could charge again one of the fortmen came up and sent a Snider ball through its body; even then it was some time before it succumbed. The above will ser\e for a
description of
all
the runs
we
h;id,
of
Avhich
there
were
got
five in
all,
Esnine
first
''The
matters
settled,
Ave
went away
to explore
said to lead
district,
the more
it there was said to be good huge The track was a very fair one, and good going: and after an hour and a half's walk, during which we had soea the old tracks of elephants in two places, b3sidcs those of buffalo, deer, and lieaps of pig, we came to what was said to be the best place but after an lioui's wandering about, not seeing any more traces, half of us gave it up and returned. Tlie others did not come back till nightfall, having come to
particularly that on
game
country.
mav
it
luis lately
been said
still
pagi's
of Th'^
F'ti'hl
that
there was
some uncertainty
lUltD^N'KSTINC,
AM)
all
IIUXJ'
!.\
lii)IlXi:<>.
.)/>
.1
were R. sumatranus.
Our
.Icpliant also
iiulicus,
but this
had a rece[)tioa afterwards amongst other [)L'ople. Dato Buginda Etani brought his four wives aboard. Dato Buginda Etani is the good Dato as distinguished from Dato Buginda Putih the bad Dato
;
We
j)irate village.
is
The
is
Iviiruuding,
dead; this
the
man
a
^\
ho used
to
show people a
m
itli
crees-barong-
(a
weapon
and
Roman
had Buginda Putih. his son. exhibited a desire to emulate but was soon controlled by the his fatlu^r's exph.uts growing strength of the government, and had to fly.
hims^df killed
:
one hundred
His cousin,
it
is
who was on
as
board us to-day
Hyassin's, &c.
in
all
his
wives,
as
M'ell
Sheriff
As usual, they were gorgeously arrayed the brilliant hues of the i-ainbow, purple and
silk.
Their masses
oil,
as
combed
u[i
higli <iu
and has
re-dressed.
They
usually
cut
foreheads.
say
for
attendant
slaves,
we gave
oi
them.
ij:(
ADi:
IN
r,oKM:().
Dato Buginda
'.\'ith
liinisL'lf
embr()idere(l
gold,
thighs, and a
litllo
thin
jacket
i'rills,
over
a vest,
the
coloured braid,
On
and
ear.
witli
knowing
lit:le tail
the
left
for
the expedition,
we
morning
for
Sapa
Pangeran ]jaut true to his word, expecting us; and as soon as Ralimeo began to beat tlie gong, anuijuncing our approach, off he came in his boat, flying the Sabah
flag
([i
from the
stern.
These native boats arc very and have a charming eftect \\hen
their j;arti-coloured
is
seudding out
wind.
sca,
sails full of
Their foundation
nothing
is
else
than a canoe,
a mast
is
then
fixed,
and a
sail
[)repared.
As protection against the sun, they place kadjang over the centre portion of the boat, beneatii which vou have to squat. These boats are called
it
dapongs, and
used
ti)
\\as usually
in
pirates
make
Ha\)i\
their raids.
Good we fnind Pangeran Amas and his men, who are tlie most important persons of all, for W. had been afraid they arc the birdsnest collectors.
At
arc dreadful daw dlers, and always put
they would beg for a further delay, for these people ofl' doing anything
lioKNJX).
.').)
but to our
.satisfaction. Ave
to
accompany
us, the
of his
riie
men should
'
join us in a
stern of the
and away we
bound
It
for the
Avere
all
lost in
a vague mist.
took us
all
day
uf
Tanna Balu,
for avc
had
to
so that
it
reached an anchorage.
pilot us,
brought
<i\
Avith
him
being
exce[)t a little
and as a
in
this
Avarm
climate
it
is
A-ery
difficult to
clothes on.
Next morning everyone Avas astir at daybreak, making preparations for Avork. Wo dressed and had breakfast, and then went off" in Pangeran Laut's boat, bound for the caves of Segalung. The Avay Avas u[) a narroAV river, thickly bordered by mangrove trees, Avhich grcAV luxuriantly in the rich black mud, as they like
brackish Avater.
We
saAv
a magnificent specimen of
r.6
DIX'ADH IX DORXEO.
in
tlie
r.iovc.
It
liad
been
bloom, and
Osman climbed up
we pulled through
At
last
it being low tide, to the base of a giant Mhich was thickly clothed Avitli trees. Two of the experienced nest collectors had already set to work, had made a fire, and were preparing beeswax candles and wooden-pronged forks, the one to hold the
light,
the rocks.
The
candles they
made by taking a
it
long-piece of thick
wick of
beeswax, squeezed
The
they are
split
into four,
and
to
little
slits
Avedgcs
the
secured
-wc
followed
forest
way through
Soon
avo
the
tliin
an
upward
direction.
came
to
a grotto
formed by a great mass of overhanging limestone rock, all bare and jagged, on the outside of Mhich the common begonia was growing luxuriantly, and below was a great cool pool of water. At the back Avere dark caverns and recesses that Ave could not see the end of-
We
imagined this
Avas
Avent,
said no:
forest
soon
avc
liddkd
honevcomb.
At
iui;i)SNi;s'nX(;.
and
\\
iilxt in
lioitNKn.
,)<
cavern.
<if
\\]i(jso
:
approach
as bluckcd
by great boulders
coffins,
rock
tliis
thcMii.
made
of billian.
were
in a very
Notwithstanding
bones.
this
no
renuiins
of
up jagged rocks, and huge chambers and tunnels in the hill. Now and then tliere was a rent in tlie side which admitted sufficient light to show ns our way, and then Mould occur a great opening sliowing us the sky above. into narrower twilight Still the "'uidcs led us on At one point it Mas necessary to climb passages. over Osman's body to reach a point above: at another we had to Avriggle our bodies along a narrow ledge Mith a "Meat hole below and the ceilino" of limestone not IS inches above, so that you had to lie prone on Vuur stonuich and to creep down a black hole in the floor of one cave, -wliicli dropped into a passage
to boulder across little preci[)ices.
last
Me stood
in
had specially
the
lift
selected
for
its
accessibility.
Then
hoM'
guides
lit
their candles,
and shoM"ed us
to
them high so as to throM' a full light on the It Mas full of niches, but. to our disappointment. roof. we could find no nests Mortli taking, as evidently some men had been before ns and robbed the cave.
There were, hoMCver, plenty of tiny nests in course of construction. ^ ery Mhite ones of the best quality, Morth
58
Jfil.)
A DKCADK IN JiOUXKO.
a catty, so
wo
retraced
our stops.
as tliey
Hassan and
brought some
arrived,
some more
collectors
had
and
On
see
really
off to
end of Tanna
fine
at the
is
grassy slope
much
away
manner.
We
were in an inland
sea, all
around us were
and coves of Tanna lialu on tlio one side, and tlic mainland on the other, on M'hich hand there were hills beyond hills and mountains beyond mountains, and <dl islands, headlands and mountains forest-clothed to the water's edge. The nearest approach to it, perhaps,
is
Ja[)an.
unpeopled land, ourselves and our company the onlv human beings in it. It seems strange that such a land of promise, so full of natural beauties and
a groat
valuable products of
unvisited
all
kinds, should be
unknown and
it
by man.
On
was found that the deer had sought the shade, as it was tlie middle of the day, and though several were seen,
they were
all
too far
off".
From
LilUl)S\i:sTlN(;.
AM)
HINT
I'.oKXl'.O.
.>!>
M'itli its
many
w'lili
smii^ liarbours
watCM',
light
gvetn of the
where the coral shoals contrasted with the darker green of the trees, and the deep blue of the sky and the sea. To gaze to the right and to the left, over all those miles of sea and land, and think there was not a li\ing soul near U'^, was a\\e-inspiriiig: but it was a grand
and wonderful
sight,
to be forgotten.
We
the wind
as
we had
obligingly
turned r(jund in
Pangeran related
land, invariably
being killed
to corner a
notably
whole
:
his
own
man
look
at,
and by no means
We
liadevl at
one place,
and found
the
shore
On
Timbamata
to
full
of
produce,
which
is
be
had
for
tlie
meie
trouble
of collecting.
Having arrived
'
at the launch,
we bathed, dressed
and dined and afterwards went out fisliing by moonlight with a rumbut," or cast net, catching quantities of
rather small
fisli
()0
A HKCAlti;
cooked
aiul
IX
lioRMKt.
in
forthwith
supper.
line
iiuUilged
an
iiii[>:
omj)'u
sharks
The
is
first
It
so pitch
dark
the
L'lrge
caves,
where the
it is
arc.
men
We
result,
however,
but started
collection,
Afterwards
day or two's
hundred
dollars'
worth
liad
been obtained.
Our way to]\radai hiy between more islands and about midday wc arrived oil" the mouth of tlie river but it was too shallow for us to go in. so we liad to anclKjr outside, and, ever calm tliongh tlie bay is, there was quite swell
;
enough At low
and
to
make
about
one hundred
people
found.
like an
Keema
enormous
On
the coast of
Tawi Tawi
there
is
is
made
The
largest shells
we
three
little
feet.
depressions in the
and making a rapid plunge with the fingers at the centre of it, when something hard and slij)pery is felt and The other hand then loosens the sand in the seized. neighbourhood, following tlie slimy body along till it
BIRDSXKs'nXi;.
AM)
HINT
IN
lloliXKO.
()I
graspin^i-.
and then,
-with a jerk,
fat
pulled out.
Tliis.
is
the
much
better than
the
common
some
kind, wiiich
in the sand.
is
We
many
like.
beautiful shells,
with long
spines,
round
and
tortoise-shell-
up the
in
it.
Preparations
for
collecting
rattan ladders
twisted, &c.
made
in long lengths,
beeswax candles
Sliortly after
hundred men
The caves
lies
through the
but went
;
which
in
and
get up
it
the
mud
of a small
marsh.
men on
that
the
-wliich
left,
ran amongst
so
tlie\
trees.
!^^adai caves,
Seii-alumi'
other,
into
liglited
sides.
the
lighter
is
places
like
most
irregular,
some
lines
witli
()2
ii;<
aim;
in
born
!::().
.siuht into
otlicv.s
rough vocks
fall
them seems
incredible.
It is
swinffins: strings
20ft. or 30ft.
at perhaps,
off,
other
men
100ft.
from the ground, and then dragging them across from one to
tlic
more
inaccessible places.
athletes.
Jxaving nearlv
through the
forest,
hundred men
where
W. walked back
when
it
Avas
arranged that a
of collectors
men were
caves,
busy
it
collecting.
first
these
as
and a large quantity of it gone bad, to tlic heavy Ljss of the natives has ahvays themselves and of the countrv gencrallv.
sufficiently A\ell themselves,
CHAPTEU
Up
The
huiiich
VI.
TJli:
RiVKll KlXAJiATAXOAX.
Mangrove The Mdapi. natives. Perils of Coiifen-inir Bilct. Wealtliy a patent of nobilitw Sebongan. ('rocodiles. Wild animals. Oran^-iitaiis. Lamas. Kliiuoeeros for dinner. A river flood. Our noali's ark. Miss Crocodile steaks. Crocodile Eelnetance of dogs to swim rivers. Cliampaka's A proboscis monkey's dilemma. Sandflies. Ordeal by the food. larder. The of water. Short Toiling through mud-banks. gymnura. Spiny
swamps.
l?atu
S(/hiHr.^'
l^aliallii.
!\Iinniai).i,'.
'J'miiiniiiijjoiig
cavt'.
Its
le,i,'eiul.
birdsnestiiiir.
linntin.t;.
wooinj;-.
boilinu-
lle])lenishin.u:
rats.
THE
We
'
following
:
is
country
left
the Elo[)ura in a houseboat named " in tow of the Government steam launch Waterlily
'Saline."
The
''
Waterlilj/"
is
Shanghai houseboat model, her main cabin being of fair She boasts, besides, of a pantry, and has accomsize. modation of a Aery limited kind at the stern for the crew and servants, where is also fitted up a fireplace for
cooking, designed on a most primitive plan.
In each
bow
there
is
been made by a Chinese carpenter, who held the theory, like the rest of his race, that if at night " no got eye, no
can see."
planks to
a mosquito
Our intention
one of the
Avas
to ascend the
Kinabatangan,
(il.
UP
Tin;
i;ivi;;t
kinai'.atanoax.
]^ay.
to tlic noi'tli
luis,
of
Sandakan
<3f
up to tlic pvoseut time, owed its prosperity. The first point of interest Ave passed was tlie island Bilialla, Avliose richly coloured and precipitous
clifts rise
sandstone
sandy beach,
with
here
and there
pretty
tree-
surrounded cove and a fisherman's hut. built on piles over the sea, to complete as i)eaceful and charming
a scene as can be imagined.
hours'
sea
Then
follo\\ed
a two
passage,
at
tlie
end of which
tiin-e
we
reached the ]\[umiang mouth of the Kinabatangan, the For some nearest entrance to the river from Klii[)ura.
twenty-five miles further
down
mouth
fine river
discharges
brackish for
a mile
or
so
outside.
inlet,
himself
in.
all
the
surrounding swamps
trees, so that
being
mangrove
one stream
The mangrove swamps being passed, the nijia swamps succeed. I'rom the bark of tlie mangro\e. \ aluable dyeing and also tanning extract is obtained whilst to the nipas, which in their grow th mueh resemble
:
gigantic ferns,
materials
;
of
we are indebted for our house-building them are made attaps for roofing, and
kadjangs for the walls of our bungalows. Twenty-five miles of this monotonous scenery have to be passed
65
we reach the
first
Before arriving
we were
called
npon
to sacrifice at the
Tummungong
caves, the
small entrance
to
Batu which is
pieces
of dried
fish,
small bundles
of Chinese
and all sorts of odds and ends placed there by travellers. There is a story connected
with these caves, but
it is
it
nothing particular.
to
when,
for reasons
it is
to their
imprisoned
that place
that
the
are
made, in order
the fates
may
;
who
them
is
at the shrine.
lovely
the river, the top of it crowned with fine forest trees, and its face clothed with rich vegetation, amongst which spread great palm-shaped ferns, with fronds
often 8ft. long.
owing
who ravaged
though
the
up into the
interior
last ten
more and
years
As
to Molapi, it is
nothing better than a collection of tumble-down old hed-like houses, with a few cocoanut trees and bananas
66
liore
A DECADE
and
there.
IN BORNEO.
wc steamed on to the next village that night. Bilet is a much more imposing and prosperous looking village, being inhabited by the Gomanton birds'this phico,
25,000, and
able to
make
In the
in
money
and boxes, native cannon manufactured at Brunei, and such like articles, which it was their custom to hide or bury in the f(jrest, fearing lest, by keeping too much wealth in their houses, they might provoke the attacks The two yearly collections of birds'of hostile tribes. nests used to be attended by a motley crowd of several hundred persons, who picked up a living in miscellakettles,
used to get big pickings, as the collectors were most prodigal with their wealth. A bundle of Chinese
tobacco, worth
catties of nest,
2.5
cents,
;^1
would be exchanged
per catty; salt
fish,
for four
worth
value
12
nest
and so
if
was exchangeable for an equal weight of on. One amongst other cave customs
was, that
collector above
these
had to throw down a nest, so that by means alone the hangers-on made a fjood livin''.
is
long.
lights,
As the caves
and candles
are dark,
is
necessary to use
arc employed, as
injure the nests
made of beeswax
ordinary
wax
or composite candles
07
wax
fall
on them.
a catty equals
which make the nests are of two kinds, the one which makes the black nest liaving a
The
swiftlets
slightly larger
whether
was
absent on
to
inhabitants
having
been
much banging
of cannons
and guns; some of the former refused to go off, howand recourse had to be made to red-hot pieces of Having safely passed through iron to the touch holes. this ordeal, we steamed off on our up-country journev.
ever,
and
after passing a
Bilet,
all
Towards evening we reached Sebongan, 120 miles up stream. This point is tidal limit. There are now no houses at this place, the people having deserted it and moved nearer Bilet, owing to the number and ferocity
of the crocodiles
hereabout.
and some of the accounts are very harrowing but, with the usual apathy of the Malay nature, no attempts at reprisals were made. The story runs that it
;
village,
was in consequence of a feud between the chief of the Pangeran Amai, and the crocodiles, that they
E 2
68
A DKCADE IN BORNKO.
lie
were so bloodthirsty,
liaving in
his
youtli
sworn
if
he was swearing
Bilet,
falsely.
^rumiang
to collect
dragged out of his boat at night by a huge crocodile, and ^\as never more seen again, although there were
six or seven other
men
fields
in the
same
boat.
The deserted
deer, bison
aflford
{Bos banting), rhinoceros, and elephants. saw the footprints on the muddy banks where one of the latter animals had landed after a swim across
We
the
river.
On
my
husband, having
forty
failed to
elephants,
his
when
tree.
was returning through the forest, men discovered some orang-utans sitting in a
the
He himself objects to shoot these animals, but men began firing at them before he could stop
The
female, M'ith a
;
tliem.
little
made
but, being
Mounded, stopped
in a high
turned round and saw the male animal coming to his wife's assistance, although it clearly understood the
danger, and was in fact shot by the
to conjugal affection.
men a
sad sacrifice
Early the next morning we arrived at Lamag, having passed through nearly sixty miles of tropical forest without seeing a single house, although if the
country
were
China
it
69
all
does
the
Having reached this place (Lamag), we sent the Saline " back, as we intended making a long stay, and,
interior
when W. had
is
finished his
work
at
this
place.
There
we
saw a good deal of the people. On the day we arrived the natives had killed a rhinoceros, Avhicli their dogs The had brought to bay when out pig-hunting. men went in with their spears and killed it. The Lamagites, not being ]\Iohamedans, do not scruple to eat anything that offers snakes, monkeys, &c. so they
They
offered
W.
my
I
He
protested
tliat
it
-was very
good eating,
but
and
was
declined to try
knives,
forks,
indeed,
plates
or
for
some
days
afterwards.
Our cook.
Lam
men
prize all
manner
made
possess
There
used to
Avas
with us
!^[r.
A., a naturalist,
whose cook
One night
sandbank.
We
70
i)i:c.\i)i-;
IN
lunixEO.
mountains of
tlic
interior,
wo had
to liaul our
past us in numbers.
very wisely
turn
the
them rather than be eaten by them. No less than sixty-seven had been caught in tlie preceding twelve montlis, some of I first found very large size, and nearly 20 ft. long.
tables on the crocodiles, preferring to eat
way:
called
the orderly
came and
my
was a big wild pig on the river bank close by. He Having got up immediately, and shot it from the boat. consequently a large supply of fresh meat, and knowing that the natives at this place would be glad of some, I, seeing a long dug-out canoe making its way up the river, hailed the occupants, intending to give them a
portion of poor piggy.
man
besar
in the
bow put
fisli).
his
if
As they came alongside, the head in at one of the cabin wo would like some ekan
'
(big
I
An
instant
later,
to
my
intense
surprise,
else
than crocodile.
it
had hewn
12
ft.
culinary delicacy
long:
its skull
The brute must have been about is now in the Sandakan Museum.
The mode of capturing these creatures is by firmly driving two stout but pliable poles into the river bank, and tying them together. To the lower one is attached
a long single rattan, at the end of which half a dozen
71
made fast to a short stout stick to wliicli is bound a dead monkey, or other sucli bait. A crocodile, however large, once swallowing this, and getting the stick crossways in his stomach, cannot drag away the apparently weak sticks, and is found and secured by the men when they go round to examine the lines. As the accommodation for our boatmen was very limited, some of them made an upper storey on the roof of the boat. They bound poles to tlic sides of the boat with rattan, and then covered in the framework with
kadjangs made of
tlie
In this
to
hand,
up into lengths, answer all the purposes of rope or string. Saplings abound everywhere, so that if you provide yourself before starting on your travels with a kadjang or two, you can make a snug enough little hut on very short notice. Our boat, when this addition had been made, looked like a big edition of a child's Noah's ark; however, she answered her purpose, and everyone on board, though packed like sardines in a tin. was now able to find a comfortable
and,
corner.
when
Amongst
that of a
otlier
this
was
of
Champaka.
woman, ''Champaka"
in
the
name
the
name
of a very sweet-
smelling flower.
iespecially Sooloos
odd names.
^TJlar'
tliis part of the world, and sometimes give their children very For instance, I have known a man called
Natives in
^Kalug' (worm).
But
to return to
Miss Champaka,
72
dva adi: ix
eorneo.
mistress;
slic
was not
so,
thought
it
the
down
to
rainbow
yellow
silk
trousers
(Sooloo
women,
on and
off;
and
to complete their
costumes they
way in dabs of magenta, yellow, green, and orange, hanging from their right shoulder, and
ladies
concealing their forms. These aristocratic wept copiously at losing their handmaiden, for, was after a long and solemn bichara, Champaka declared a free woman, and shortly afterwards married
partiall}'
the
man
of her choice.
For three days a native dog wandered up and down the river bank, howling in a most distressing manner. He looked lean and miserable at first, and seemed
growing hourly thinner; it was quite evident that he wished to cross the stream to get back to his home, and to this end we sent help on two occasions, but, not knowing the men or the boat, he refused assistance. Iso doubt he Avas taken out hunting by his owners and
to be
lost in the forest.
to the
rivers,
and never
poor
At
last the
73
he cunningly
made his phms, and when a large log came floating down nearer to the bank than usual, plunged into ^he stream, swam to it, and got upon it, and so was assisted some yards further across the river; then,
finding the log was drifting too far down, he again
jumped
sliore,
later, the
animal in distress this time being a proboscis monkey, nearly 4 ft. high. This odd and dissipated looking old gentleman we discovered sitting on a post It was clear that he alsf> hanging over the water. could not make up his mind to trust himself to the dangers of the river. He sat there cogitating for some time Avith a most melancholy expression on his queer face, his big red flabby nose, nearly two inches long, adding to his droll expression. As after a long time no help offered, he determined to plunge in, and in due time, although tlic current was flowing rapidly and he
had
to
lie
opposite bank.
Every evening at sundown wc were much tormented by the myriads of sandflies that sAvarmed about
us
;
their bite
is
hours.
for long
It
;
f.illowing
evening.
coff"ee
avc
heard
and calling
in the forest.
W.
sent to
74
inquire
tlic
A DECADE
cause,
IN
BOUNEO.
by hot
and was informed tliat the ordeal was being undergone by a man who Tliis test was perfectly refused to acknowledge a debt. that this method of settling voluntary. It appears When these disputes is often resorted to by natives. men came out of the forest, my husband called for them. Avishing to personally inspect the hands that had been in the boiling water; they did not seem any
Avatev
and we do not know how tlie matter any rate, the debtor was quite When the man's luind is satisfied, for he told W. so. in the hot water he relieves his feelings by loudly calling on Heaven to help him, and bear witness to
the worse for
it.
;
was managed
but, at
Owing
were
left
to
some mismanagement
at
Sandakan, our
we
We
could not
and such delicacies as crocodile steak, monkey stew, and snake pie, not being much to our taste. They rear no fowls for food, although they keep a few, and if they happen to have a few eggs they hoard them up until they are bad* On this occasion, hearing we were short of food, one most substantial part of
their diet,
we had
on opening
as usual, them with hopeful expectation, we doomed to find them all uneatable. Wc now had recourse to trapping. We set one of the men to make 'jarrets,' or hedges formed of branches and leaves, with gaps at intervals, each gap
were,
iO
twice daily, and sometimes yielded us a mouse-deer, no bigger than a hare, a plump partridge of gorgeous plumage, or a lovely fire-back pheasant; but, sad to
huge monitor skunk that was trapped; whilst sometimes, when something good for the ])ot had been noosed, one of the uneatable creatures had been beforehand with us, and all that was left was
relate,
more
often
it
was a
civet cat, a
<a
handful of feathers.
Our
larder
was
so reduced that
tiffin,
we
as
were at
last obliged to
make our
breakfast,
and
all finished.
Amongst other
curious
little
creatures caught in
the
much
smell
they emit
;
is
insufferable,
and hangs
it is
so overpowering, that
owing
one of these animals having simply passed Another curious creature caught
rat;
it
was a prickly
hedgehog.
in place of hair
was provided with little quills like a Little squirrels no bigger than mice were
common
At
ing
in this locality.
which we had been expectand we were then able to resume our journey. From this point our progress was very slow and most difficult, for our unfortunate crew had to tow our boat. The banks of soft black mud were cut /Vlong across by numerous side streams and ditches.
last the fresh stores
arrived,
76
DKcADi".
i\
noRxr.o.
\\carily
men plunged
out,
hour
hour
down upon
the black,
them always
holding
slinic,
the
least
ankle-deep
in
to
their knees.
Yet there Avas never a murmur from any one of them, but they toiled along bravely and cheerily, changing
gangs once in two hours. It was dreadfully unhealthy work, and we were very anxious about them. I do not think that in any other country one could have found
such good-tempered and ready workers.
CHAPTEK
VI
(conthiued.J
Mungalix f)ver-rated. Orcliid?. Deserted gardens. Bees' nests. Blut. Utn's house. Champaka's ladies. Wild castle. Karavijanx. Malubuk River. Quarmote River. Alexandra Falls. Sonepis TiuibuiiWahs. Tvmgarns. Native costumes. Tobacco growing. Sunnnungup.A revolting cus Kiiiabalu the Borneo Valhalla. Boats of the Sick spirits. Doiningol. Saiiteens. Reception at Dimingol. EstaRiver. Frightened Fair. Cotton. Karaiuoork blishing a River Trade. Further up the children. A main Native mode of climbing A durian Sundyaks. The river shallows. Our return joarney. Malay traders. Native lloth. Deer shooting. Home again.
trees.
tuni.
btdtn/oi.
river.
feast.
trees.
THE
any
with.
much
met
overdrawn, so far as
my
experience extends; at
of flowers to be
rate,
with regard to
tlie
number
As a
green.
There
felled or a ladder
made
there
is
no
getting
grow from
100ft. to 150ft.
and air, their trunks being as straight as the columns of a cathedral aisle. On the river bank, however, one tree was often seen which proved an exception
for light
its
was
78
As
little
"vvc
A DECADi; IX BORNEO.
glided along
places
once under
now
which
that
afFord food to
make
these
pretty
feeding grounds.
a desire to
One could not help indulging in pitch one's tent and make a garden in one
mungalis, with
The most noticeable tree in the forest is the its smooth white trunk, which springs
it
some reason or other, the wild bees that abound in this country seem to have a predilection for these trees, and sometimes one may count as many as twenty and even thirty bees' nests hanging from the branches of a single tree. The
spreads out
its
branches.
For,
natives
rarely
it
exert
themselves
to
obtain
the
wax,
tliough
is
On and on we went, wearily and slowly, our boatmen always good-tempered, and ready to make the best
of a bad situation, never a grumble, never a
his
by turns.
We
there
passed no
at
is
we met no boats
a small
In this
campong
only one
who showed
us his
we found the Utu, proprietor, at home new domicile with great pride. He
visit,
79
mine,
the
man had a Avondcrful tale about a coal which W. promised to inquire further about on
This
possible occasion.
live
first
ladies
of quite
the
country, the
stay at
<Trccn,
Lamug
in gorgeous array
of purple, scarlet,
and gold. Their home, however, we found to be a most wretched shanty, in which it was barely possible for them to stand erect, and so old and dilapidated that in wet Aveathcr the rain must have poured
in
upon them
on
piles)
like water
through a
sieve.
The ground
(fn- all
condition, being
was in a most horrible and unsanitary wet with green slime, and all the
and had
putrified
of sight
and
smell.
It
needless to say
did not
visit.
My
at
dusk in some
large fields prettily dotted here and there with trees and
which rushed
;
off
again
but,
moon
river gets
much
swifter,
and pebbly
80
had great
A DECADE
difficulty in
IN*
BORNEO.
tlio
water
all in
away with
third
all their
strength at tw(j
off
from
yards
the rocks.
On
the
a\'c
passed
mouth nearly
fifty
On
fourth
day we reached the Quarmotc, a fine stream, whose head waters rise far away in the interior. No Europeans have ever been up this river, which has a very strong and rapid current; four duy.s' journev u\) it are Alexandra Falls, a fine cascads, said to descend
forty
yards
the
entire
river,
Proceeding on our way up the Kinabatangan, which did not perceptibly decrease in width or volume,
we soon
this
never
houses.
as
The people inhabiting this district are know n Tunbunwhas; the majority of whom are not MohamPigstycs, therefore, are often to be seen below
up from time to time for their high feasts and holidays. The Mohammedan religion is fast gaining ground in the centre of Borneo however, and soon there will be
very few people
left
who
are
away with their pig feasts a great stumbling block. At this place we saw some Tungaras, whose proper
district is
UP THE RIVER KINABATANCAN.
Turburwahs.
81
them
Hearing they were here, W. sent to call but, as the men were afraid to come themselves,
I think wo they sent a deputation of their women. were the first Europeans they had ever seen; at any
rate,
woman
before.
Wc
regaled these persons with very sweet tea and sugared biscuits, presenting them on their departure with gifts
of tobacco
(for
all
native
women
enjoy
cigarettes),
some matches, which they highly pfize their usual mode of obtaining lights and fire being by means of
a bamboo,
as well as
and a broken piece of pottery and rice. I am unable to say that these Tungara ladies could boast of great personal attractions, when judged by our western standard of beauty. They load their bodies
bit of pith,
some
salt fish
with
all manner of ornaments, chiefly coils of brass which they twist into wide waistbands, bangles wire, for arms and ankles, also necklaces and ear-rings. One woman wore a kind of coronet formed of beads and wire, which hung in a sort of fringe over her forehead; tassels of beads also hung suspended from
many
grass.
rings.
As
it
was a
sort of
puflfed
Further up the river we saw some nice tobacco The leaves were very growing amongst the paddi.
fine
it,
and
large.
The
it,
it
in
which
are thin
Xo
doubt in
growing
district.
S2
Dr.CAlli:
IX liORNKO.
Oar boat-boys,
istic
Avitli tlio
of the
]Malay
race,
used to constantly
devote
One
night,
however,
to
tlicy
and returned
next day.
the
houseboat
off
of beautiful silvery
fish,
met with unusual luck, with two pail-feels which wc all feasted the
Avas very tedious
One gets tired even of admiring this and the unbroken line of forest trees grows A'illages, however, occurred dreadfully monotonous. much more frequently than they did below Quarmote. ;nid we stopped at each one, as there were bicharas and quarrels to settle at nearly all of them. At one
])lace
a small chief
came forward
to
make
a request.
dry,
and as a means
much
for
this
might be allowed
to
Summungupping
is
was promptly
refused,
and the
man
Avas
future.
The ceremony
summungupping
is
as follows
Having obtained a slave for the purpose, the unfortunate being is bound with ropes and tied to a post; thereupon all the villagers approach armed with spears, which they thrust a short distance into the slave's body, at the same time requesting him to convey messages to their deceased relations on Kina Balu. (1 may here explain that Kina Balu, the largest mountain
ur
in the B.N.B.
Tin-:
iavi:u
KiNAiiATAXOAX.
83
Company's territory, represents the heaven The good individuals \\\\o die ascend of these people. the rocky heights and live in joy at the summit whilst the bad ones, ceaselessly and ineffectively try to scramble up its cold and rugged sides to the abode of
bliss above.)
Whilst continuing our way up stream ^ve saw a down towards us. It was
decorated
raft.
with
I
flags,
lanteen or
refused,
in
wished
to
their
it,
usual courteous
fashion,
to
interfere with
in a village
above must be
ill,
and that
it,
this little
would
and the boatmen were afraid that if they took it, the sickness, which they imagined to be on board it, would attack us or some member
of our party.
At a Doint near here we found a boat full of men awaiting ns, sent down to assist us by the thoughtful kindness of Pangeran Dermatuan, who had received news of our approach by Panglima Banjcr, whose boat
A.
being a swift gobang or dug-out canoe, travelled taster than out heavy houseboat. The river from this point
was more thickly populated. At Termoy there were some sago and cocoanut palms growing, almost the first -we had seen. The same day we arri\ ed at Domingol,
our place of halt.
Domingol
is
first
sight
wo caught
surprised
of
it
as
we rounded a bend
us.
of the river
much
in
and
large
pleased
Panglima
structure,
Dermatuan's
stands
r 2
house,
and
roomy
81<
])i:(AI)K
IN
HORN 1:0.
coininancling
position
;it
with
B.N.B.
Company's
is
flag
flying
above
The
surrounding country
for a
cleared
comparatively long distance back from the river Here and there, dotted about amongst paddi banks.
and sweet-potato
Derinatuan's
whilst, forming a
flelds,
Panglima
little
liill
followers,
each crowning a
to this rural
background
of
hills
and peaceful
in
all
tlie
scene
of
contentment
ranges
distance
far
forest
On
their
many
cargoes of rattans.
houses were erected upon these lanteens, with verandahs I should think it must be nn^st comfortable to in front.
travel in this way.
used to
quite a
float
down stream,
of traders' boats.
The Pano-lima
much banging
of
on an elevated platform, he liad arranged a scat oH honour gorgeously draped with silks of all the c<jlours
of
the
rainbow.
A number
of the
chief villagers
collected
and squatted round about the edge of the matters were discussed, to bo
"one into nio;e fully on a later occasion. Not only from a distance was Doniingol attractive, but, \uilike most native villages, we were surprised and
85
find
that
jieoplc to devote
all
is
kept
tliink
it
due to
Panglima, for
is
'omingol
is
and na
European influence
them.
There being a
^[alay
traders
fairly large
campong
here,
enjoying a
little
recreation, the
''
This
game
is
hand or a bat, but tlie ball, which is a light one made of rattan, is kept in motion by kicks given by the inner side of the ankle of the right foot, and much skill is shown in keeping it in the air. Such persons amongst the circle of players as aspire to be dandies airily wave bright-coloured silk handkerchiefs in their
right hands.
fine
cotton
my
were sent to ask people to come from all the nearest villages, and bring -with them whatever they had to sell, on a certain given day. Wishing to make the affair
a success, amongst other things
we
instigated an old
Sooloo
woman
to
make
S6
ca[)ital
DECADi: IN r.OUMCO.
rice-flour,
for
the
She sat up most of the night .sugar, niakinir her bake-meats, and on the market morning liad a supply of cakes of many kinds and shapes, but ;ill, I believe, of much tlic same flavour, which attracted
and cocoanuts.
many
tlie
customers.
in
fact,
scarcely understanding
to occur.
river in
boat-boys.
crew in
witli
tlieir
white
blue
blouses
sailor
round their
boat-i5ongs,
}iaddles.
As
tliey
keeping
time
to
the
splasli
of
their
Houses and gardens line the banks of tlie Kinabatangan on both sides above Domingol; but
tlie
Karamoork, which is a tributary, is very thinly inhabited, owing to its nearness to a head-hunting tribe on the north side, who not many months before
had come. over and taken tAventy-two heads, mostly As Ave rounded a bend of the river, Ave saAV several little boys enjoying an
those of Avonien and children.
evening bathe.
lustily,
When
off like
rushing
avc
little
and paid a
field.
visit to
cut
W. recognised the proprietor. It seems that he down and killed a man leaving his Avife's mosquito curtain. He afterwards travelled all the Avay to Elopura
UP
to
Tin-:
Kivi-R kixabata\(;an.
87
it
report
himself and
be
tried.
Circumstances,
Being a strong-nerved man. had been put in one of the farthest liouses up tlie he
sent back to his covnitry.
Karamooi'k.
On
tlie
invited to be present at a
the Panglima.
until broad
From
the time
Two
or
three
men
circle,
and commence
to
chanting a dirge-like
choruses.
solo,
the
in
thf
The songs
anything of local
interest.
We
how his
<'ourt,
:vhich, there
many
The
DominiT-ol o
trading
Avhich
took place at
rattan-cut-
Having o
river,
ting ris^hts
the
Panglima
was
was the case in other parts of the river. and a constant and steady outflow of produce is the consequence. Every day a few bundles of rattans Avero added to the different traders' stocks, and placed on the
88
lautccns,
A
uliicli,
DKCADH
mIicu
l\
liORXEO.
are
floated
a^^ay
full,
down
stream.
At moork.
last
\vc
Jvinabatangan
beyond
it
junction
Avitli
the
Kara-
The
seem
we soon found it and some seven or eight miles above the Karamoork our progress was brought to a stop altogether by shallows up which the boat could not possibly pass. At this point wc were, according to the map, over 1000ft. above sea level in the boat, and in
but, although
-was just as broad, ^vas not so deep,
The country was very nice; houses and gardens A '' main-balugsi " was held in our honour in the house opposite which wc had moored our boat, and \\as attended by a rather larger number of girls than usual, all dressed in the most
silks of all the
girls
gorgeous
hues of the
Tunbunwha
W.
[went
on an exploring
intention Avas
elevation of
European who had ascended them. His to tr)' and find a flat of laud, at an
or so, on Avhich a house could be
2()0()ft.
The
was not altijgether successful, as the ridges were too narrow and steep; but a heavy thunderstorm,
attended by a deluging rain, drove the party back to
the boat before their explorations were
plished.
full}-
accom-
they
had
is
come
fruit I
am
very fond
of,
wc went
off
in
the
afternoon
to try
and get
snine.
We
89
ground
AThicli
had
fallen
We
tried
-well-built
Sulu.
the strong
man
of our crew,
who
night
to
if
ascend the
4ft.
thick,
and
rose straight
up
for 100ft.
branch
it,
by ascending Avhich Magheer thought to get over into the branches of the durian. So up he Avent but when about 30ft. from the ground he disturbed a Avasps' nest, and, roaring lustily, tumbled rather than climbed down to earth again. Not dismayed by this
;
(oiiti'ct''tiq:>s,
howcA'cr,
a slight
to
little
felloAV,
Avho
said
he
was impervious
his
Avasp
up
Avas
so quietly
and
softly that
seen to
and he
stoically
for
He
theu
Avas determined,
Wo
summoned
so,
again in
([uest of the
much-coveted
next morning.
The Suudyak (Sundyak is the general term in use for the Tunbunwhas, Romanows, and other neighbouringtribes) method of ascending trees is very curious.
Appearing to regard the
tree itself as
one side of a
it,
and placp
no
A DECADK
IN
BORNEO.
This they accomplish in
all.
which they sharpen at one end. These are the rungs, the sharp end of one of which is driven into the tree about five feet from the ground. A pole some fifteen feet or so long is then At intervals tied securely to the outer end of the peg.
foot in length,
workman ascending on
fixes
when he
one above
But
is
a ladder
below, 12ft.
the
the work
first
now
begins,
it is all
make
tlie
but what support can there be for This problem, however, the second one up in tlie air ? He presents no difficulties to the Sundyak's mind.
lashes
some three
feet of the
and, ascending
as
before,
Tliis
itself,
ladder indefinitely.
difficulty
presented
ants,
was
full of bull-
headed black
everyone
which fastened
Avith
ferocity
on had
been obtained from the lower branches, the men came out of the tree, declaring that they could not stand the But again Mathassan, bites of these dreadful ants.
the slightly built boat-boy, came to the rescue, and,
going up, did not leave the tree until he had thrown down the last durian. When he regained the ground he was perfectly black wdth ants, wliicli had to be
Ul"
TIJH
RIVKR IvINAliATANGAN.
91
fine feast of
swept
oft'
him
in handfuls.
We
all
had a
and returned to the boat happy. My husband had intended to ascend to Penungah, the furthest inland of the Government stations, where there is a garrison of five men, who are considered
(lurians,
(piite sufficient to
district
but
the want of water in the river and the great karangans prevented it, for it was quite impossible to get our
left
migrated into a dug-out canoe, ho[)ing by this means so we had to be able to accomplish our purpose)
;
to
return
to
liours' absence.
Penungah is quite a busy trading place as Avell as Government station. The Kinabatangan proper ends at this place, and divides into four rivers, all of them
fairly well populated
;
so,
is
from
its
central position, as
population increases
it
clearly destined to
become
At present
it
is
make
their goal.
is
The mode of
in
curious; three or
together
Sandakan,
and going
the
way of security. Storing these goods in a longnarrow canoe suitable for river work, they ascend the Kinabatangan, usually only nudcing a stay of a day ov two at the lower villages to rest, catch fish, or buy
potatoes, as there
trade
is not much to do in the way of with these places, they being in touch with
Sandakan
itself,
92
A
supplies.
j)ix'.\i)i-:
IX ]'.ORXKo.
own
in
Fartlioi' u[)
loniifor
tlicir
stops at
tlic
difFerent
villa^res jriow
numbers one
(>
to
buy a pair
(f
Cliinese trousers,
another
01b,
of
salt,
a
in,
fifth
and
Nearly
all
half-a-dozen
bundles of
few
catties
of beeswax or indiarubber, or
some other
article
rattans.
it
is
months before Penungah is reached, where a longer stay than ever is made, while
eight
or
nine
Penungah
is
and honey, figuratively speaking a fine and healthy climate, good soil, field produce (except rice) so cheap that it can be had for the asking, and
with milk
fish
plentiful.
''
The
traders
while away
their
time
attending
Koran
that
at
each other's
to
far-off
or
to
off
any goods
hang
on their
hands.
When
make
raft
across,
by
barter,
village
to
village,
and
in
93
once move find tlieniselvcs in Sandakan, Mith produce worth ^1,000 or so, which they take to tlie shop of the
After them out. paying liim off tliey usually have enough money left There are, to divide 80 or 90 amongst themselves. of course, no wages to pay, whilst as for food they
Chinaman
Avho
originally
fitted
have eaten very little besides sweet potatoes, tapioca, bananas, and other such things which the native give
them, and the
fish
they catch
Avitli
their
own
cast nets;
and
3Ialay character.
The confidence Avith which the Chinese shopkeeper sees a gang of men taking away
several hundred dollars' worth of his stock, disappearing
with
it
for
months up
is
rarely abused.
:
The
they
little
know no
a very
labour in their fields and gardens yields them paddy, sweet potatoes, maize, pumpkins, cucumbers, and melons, bananas, and the like in larger quantities than
week or two's forest produce collecting provides them with plenty of rattans and other things which they can barter for cloth, brass
they can consume
;
ware, and other small necessaries for their households. Their houses are usually fairly large and cool, and two or three broods cost them nothing except labour
;
and the
they in
pigs,
turn
9i
any ideas
place.
(jf
A Dr.cADi:
value,
ar(>
IX
ijounko.
stoncl
away
in
e\ery spare
What move
do
tliese
people want?
Not being- able to go any farther, M'e at last pulled up our anchor and proceeded to float down stream. Avhicli Mas a most pleasant mode of progression. Seated upon deck in the cool of the evenings, we slowly and smoothly glided along, passing houses, gardens, fruit trees, grassy glades, clumps of feathery bamboo, with the soft winds murmuring in their leaves, and strips of forest now and then intervening; tying up at night to a tree in a covered bend of the river. We found that by proceeding in this manner we could shoot mow game than in any other way; gliding noiselessl}' along
AV'c
floated close to
shots
to
their
our crew.
When
got
ill,
still five
and I became quickly home. Our men from the large canoe to day and night without
our return was
most
anxious
to
get
him
stopping,
By
this
means
very
much
at
time
we
arrived
Elopura,
ha\ing made a
its
unfortunate
fresh
sea
husband, while as for myself had been quite well the whole journey through.
my
CHAPTER
VII
I.
Physicnl characters of tlie r.uludupips Former population. Eey's researches. Forest i)roduce. Trade r.iiludiipics. Dr. change for the worse. Ws. Chinese settlers. witli China. arrival. Sad decay of the native pojiulation. Origin of the Buhidtijiies. Eorn of Satan. Clever fire-makers. The IJajows coloured sails. Sea Gypsies Origin of the I'ajows. Legend (if Ayesha. Ibraticen's story. Skill as fishermen. Spearing
fish.
A The Balignini pirates. Omaddas settlement. Unpleasant experience. Hajow rain on Bulungan traders. Cliasing the Fired on by police. Escape of the pirates. Silam in Threats from Omaddal. Reina state of siege. Native The women in the forest.Arrival of forcements sent
l)irates.
allies.
for.
S.S.
I'ahnam.
was a
fairly
Of the well populated and smiling rural country. the Buludupies were one of the most various tribes
of the more typical differs in Mongolian type, their eyes being so round and the bridge of the nose so developed, that Dr. Key a French scientific man, who visited North Borneo in 1881 was inclined to think, that they were of semi-Caucasian
ancestry.
HoM'ever this
may
of, they inhabited the country from the Sugut on the North, to the Segama on the South ; their fragile boats
about trading and fishing amongst the green islands that plentifully dot the shallows and ever-calm
sailed
sea, their
paddy
fields
scat-
young men
<)6
A DECADE IN BORXLO.
nests,
beeswax, and to this tribe almost solely was confined the art of extracting from the tree the valuable barus
in
China.
Tlu'ir old
men
and
life
in the
climate,,
Then
it
junks from Amoy running before the northerly monsoon came through the Philippine Islands to Sulu, and from then passing Tawi Tiuvi arrived on the Borneo coast dropping their goods as they Mcnt, crockery, ironware, and taking on board birdsnests, silks and the like beeswax and rattans, cuttle fish, keema and trepang
;
at
on their way
back.
Junks at this time maintained a good trade m ith Brunei and other ports on the west coast, and Chinese
traders settling
girls
down
in
many
mixed with the people of the country, infusing a good many Chinese customs
and
to a large extent
and
many
others.
to
come
There was
to be
an end of the quiet, easy, slightly dreamy life under a pleasant warm sky, where the rich soil gave
.slightest attention
paid to
it.
where the produce of the forest, of the birdsnest caves, or the rattan swamp wove A\ithin easy reach, and were at once exchangeable for rich silks and other commo-
AMONG
ilitles
Tin; lliMJ'DiriKS
AM)
UA.IOWS.
97
from China.
lazily
No
come
to be
down
Buludupie.s
traders were
The only
Parang men. inhabitants of one of the fiercest men with commercial instincts, capable of giving back l>low i'nv blow witli the pirates; tlie population of whole districts was to disappear, and tlie land so late a smiling garden was to revert to dense jungle, tenanted only by the elephant and the
districts of Sulu. but
<)rang utan.
When W.
remnant existed of what had been one of the most numerous and most prosperous tribes in Borneo. Of a mild and gentle disposition, they were particularly
unfitted
to
struggle
times
that
arose, and were rapidly on the road to total extinction. Of all those inhabiting tlie Sandakan district, but
seventeen
adult males
survived
in
villages
up
tlie
by repeated head-hunting
raids,
they
came on the scene, and by intervening between and the Sulus, ga^'c them fresh courage and enabled them to gather for themsehes the fruits of their own fields without seeing it seized under one
lie
when
tliem
They show ed
their appreciation
of
W.
in various
guide on hunting
expeditions, instructins;
agriculture,
and
telling
country.
Amongst other
98
Mas descended
account of
daughters,
DIU'ADi; ]\
liOKM-:o.
direct
iVcjiii
tlicir
ancestry.
the light
wherewith
who
also tried
she was very angry with them, which put one of them
in such a passion that she ran off to a tree to give herself to
''
and offered
Satan
''
if
a light easily.
whereupon on trying again she struck That night she disappeared. Three niffhts afterwards, the mother dreamed that if she Avent to a certain tree in the forest she would find her daughter, and upon di)iiig so found her accordingly.
produce
fire,
who
was the ancestor of the Buludupies. However all this may be, the fact reiiiaiii.s that the Uuludapies seem to luwc the knack of extracting fire from many most unpromising substances, and are never at a loss for a light for their cigarettes, even though
they
have
n(j
lucifer
matches.
Their
producing
k of
fire is
an inch thick, scrape it until they have produced a flocky substance, then with a littU' bit of broken pottery, a piece out of any old plate or tea-cup, held
between their finger and thumb, holding some of theflock to the pottery with the thumb, they strike it smartly against the edge of the bamboo and a s[)ark is
produced which kindles the
]\[any
flock.
fair,
of the
almost
if
not
(piite
white
as
Portuguese
or
Spaniards.
.\M<iN(;
rilK
Ul I.UDl I'lKS
ANI> BA.IOW
S.
IM)
along-
About the shoves of these seas, small boats borne by bright parti-coloured sails are frequently
Sometimes' these
Avliite
to be seen.
sails are
made
of alternate
sometimes red prc-dominates. blue and they arc a combination of red, white while occasionally
stripes,
and
blue.
Tlic
As a rule these are Bajow boats. Bajows or Sea gipsies are a strong muscular
dark race, the darkest of all the ]\[alay tribes. They have the appearance of having been pickled and preserved by the salt sea bree/es which they love so well,
The children
and the hot direct rays of the brilliant tropical sun. of this tribe go about absolutely unclothed They lead a free roving life until an advanced age. here to-day. gone to-morrow, very rareh' in boats, settle on the land, and Avhen they do, always select
lonely spots
less,
along
tlie
sea-shore:
they
to
are
a
:
recktlie}"
feckless
race, living
from liand
anything
sea-birds
mouth
take
the
never
like
think of planting
a
and
on
flight
Hock
of
scared
slightest
provocation.
Tlie ancestry of the Bajows is
somewhat doubtful.
Certain
it
is
from Brunei chronicles, (of which a vivacious account was given in the pages of "All the Year Round" a few
Kingdom
of
Brunei to
^Mahomedauism, taken
corroborated as
first
it is
by a
tale told
by Ibrahim of the
appearance of the Bajows in these waters. It does not quite fit in Avith what the Bajows themselves say. w ithout there is a place named Gorangtalo in Johore, as
that (Gorangtalo)
is
come from. G 2
100
i)i;r \i)j-:
i\
iKtiiM.t).
Oucr upon
J^ultau
ter,
*)i'
;i
time,
so
Jolioie
\\
and name of Dayung Aycslia. Glowing accounts of her cliarni of face and feature
bearing the
style
and Sulu, so that the SuUans of tliose kingdoms beyoud the seas, desired much to obtain her for a
bride.
ITer father naturally
favoured
tlie
suit of the
Sultan of Sulu
(Sulu
in
well with
Dayung Ayesha
herself
meantime seems
to
who we
all
surreptitiously visiting
turning
daughter,
in
compelled
Ayesha
antl
to
embark
Sulu.
a specially
constructed
fleet as
boat
start
for
attended by a
many
fighting men, to
jiarti-coloured sails,
and gently
still
rippling
A\a\es
safely
l)ore
the
charming
the
but
weeping princess
across
ili^tilla
intervening
Borneo.
Xo thought
la/ily
minds of the fighting men, her protectors, mIio lay on tlie decks of the prahus, basking in the
chewing
sirrih or meditatively rolling
brilliant sunshine,
V.MOM:
ciuarcttc.';.
nil-:
lill.l
iill'llis
AND
I',.\.l()\\
s.
101
off tlicir
guard,
and
tc
was madL' by
at
Sultan of Hrunci.
who
lud a
fleet
When
fiercest,
the
fast
Sultan
himself,
specially
j)re[)a)'ed
and
prahu. came
alongside
Dayung
Ayesha's boat.
two struggling
out,
fleet
in
^ery
charge,
at the
Ver\' little
better
Sulu
lieet
Sultan,
tlie
sti
of
olf,
true), tliat
Bur
;
mcU
;
as
thev
f-riuld,
such
provisions
outcasts,
as
they
a
were able
ni'
and
finally
became
as
it
or
species
stealth,
Flying
Dutchmen
were,
living
by
young women
for
wives
replaced
in
by smaller new
places,
by
(hemselves
unfrequented
mostly sandy
islaiuls.
On
a few sandy
a
102
I>1XAII-:
IN
I'.OUNKO.
laiuily
in
a boat to
itself.
it
is
rather curious to
the
muck
licet)
now
Bah ala, and the Jiuludupies, whose main district in this immediate neighbourhood was then the Blocking, a river at the back of the Muniiang harbour,
appeared
off
uumi
tlie
to
parhiy
is
with
the
This again, by
way,
quite character-
the Buludupies.
unfortunate castsways bv
aalf a
'cad
"'
order,
force.
of folk
they
had
to
where])y
the
Ikdudupies
agreed
to
retire
into
their
foreshore
rights,
and
the small birdsncst caves on Balhalla to the Bajows. who for their part agreed not to make any settlement
on shore.
Tliis
adhered to until
Thcv
<if
are, jKir
this
world,
beche de
luer,
keemah,
tortoiscshell,
eggs
and
AMONU THK
pearls.
liUI-UDUlMKS
AND
I'.A.IOW'S.
lO.'i
Their
food
includes
all
kinds
of
oysters,
tlic
gathered
upon
cite as
an So improvident are they, tliat T instance, that once a BajoNV, having received in barter for some find of extra value, more rice than he cared
to carry
in
may
his
boat,
it
away
to a safe
Tiicy throw
dexterity, and coasting in the shallows, a Bajow will secure at .')() or 60 feet distant a comparatively small
fish,
considering that he has to allow not only for the pace the fish is swimming, but also for the deflection caused
Owing
to
Bajows are of a lawless character. The far famed and greatly dreaded Balignini arc one of their sub-tribes -these people were justly feared in all those waters on
account of the systematic raids they used to make, not only on the tribes near home, but also to far distant
countries,
solely
for
kidnapping
purposes
and
all
references to the
away
as
Omaddal
For long
of
past these
people
seas,
have been
regarding
that
in as
possession
their
the
neighbouring
lawful prey
their
Anything
or
anybody
came along
way.
10-1-
m.'.MiK
1\
iiUKNKo.
bold,
tliousaiul.s
of them, a
\n'^. Jrtron^-,
race, unscrujuilovis to
a degrei-.
On one
tlicii
front
tlieir
goods seized
this.
as slaves.
On
hearing
W.,
men who
had
ca[)turc(l
them.
Knowing
full \vv\l
the desperate
man
r
in
to
let
sudden
Mas he to allow any of the BajoA^s, except those he demanded, on board. Several of the captured people were handed over, but the boats and goods were retained, and the persons mIio had committed llie act of piracy were dcc-lared not to be known, w lii(,-h was of course untrue, but naturall}' such
rush of boats, neither
despc radices do not stick at a
lie.
The
after.
left
It
real fact
a[[)arc'nt
soon
tununl out
arri\al
of the launch, consequently they knew nothing of what had occurred, or of the " Sahhie^s '' visit to their
men and
day
after
their
removal
to
Silam.
Accordingly,
t]u>
^\]ll
the
should present Bulungan people arrived in Silam. themselves there but two Bajow boats, manned by the
AMONG
pirates,
'IHK
RUH'DUPIIvS AN'D
rice, &c.,
I'.A.TOWs.
O.'i
come
to
buy
was
their misdeeds
had not reached W.'s ears. However men happening to be sitting on recogniged his tlie time, and at once
to the native
magisto
who
in
his
turn
came
my
husband
for orders.
instruction.-, to liim to call
W. gave
immediately,
who
wharf where the pirates were said to be. On arhe found that they had already taken alarm, had flung down the bags of rice they had bought, and were paddling off in their two boats as fast as they could. In order to catch them. W. saw that immediate steps^ must be taken. Jumping into the first boat handy with two or three men he gave chase, issuing at the same time orders for the proper row-boat to be brought round from the boat-house and manned with armed police.
to the
rival there,
W. was
AVLie
skimmed over
in\
when
fire.
By
this time
the news
every
man.
a
in
the
aiul
place
Avho
could
find
turned
out
rushed
trate's
wife,
came
to
her
raven locks
streaming in
the
breeze,
kris
in
her
1()()
DKiAlii;
IN
lii'KNKO.
tlic
bla/L*
away recklessly, regardless alike of friend and The pirate boats bounded over the shinimcring
the
fuc.
sea.
men
paddling with
the
While W.
I
in
liis
gaining on tliem,
stood >m
full
tlie
end of
as
to
of alarm
happen next,
Suddenly
one of the boats faltered, tlien the two closed up together, tlie m^n from one s[)rang overboard into the
Mater, and tpiick as thought scrambled into the other,
seized their pnddles and
the
number of oars being now doubled. The police all this time continued their mad
rushing along the shore, taking pot shots as they M-ent, and the row-boat being in the line of fire, the balls were
whizzing
all
about
it
of
Ws. men
as he sat
so
swamp
W. was
left to
continue
etj^ual
and W. Mas so close that he was able to put two or three shots through their sails without fear of Finding that they could hitting any of the occupants.
not hold out
in
much
the
longer,
mangrove swamp, jum[)ed into the shallow water and disappeared amongst the tangled
towards
AMONG
nct-wDvk of
(listancc
tlie
iiii-:
i'.ri.rj)i
rii'.s
and
BA.rows.
tliem
a
107
sliort
roots.
W.
followed
as
it
through the mud. but coukl not get up to thciu was fast growing dark. He could easily have
them while still in the boat had he so thought iit. He started back with one boat, picking up the forsaken one half way back, wlieu he discovered a great
sliot
splash
of blood
at
the
stern.
On
arriving at Silam
examination
sliowed
that
out
of
412
five
cartridges
times.
An inquiry
in
them
It
all
being
in
charge
ilisrated.
we were
in rather
an
un[)leasant
prom[)tly returned to
Omaddal
car-
declaration
the
forest,
but
so
did
the
Bajows,
carried
them off. minus the one. who shot in the back, had tumbled overboard, and -whose body was never seen again. ha\ing been probably devoured by sharks. The natives at the upper end of the Bay rallied round us to a man. Panglima Laut in particular coming
in
with all the men ho could collect, to our aid, while Pangeran Amas and ])ato Asivce also lent their boats
to act as scouts.
and men
The police force consisted of thirteen men. one ot whom, a big black Somali took the opportunity of
going mad, and required the constant attention The sergeant could of two others to contr(jl him.
108
lii;(
\I)K
!\
JinKNi;<'.
in-'itlu-r
:
the eireum:>tance.s
rifles
was most of
xnipleasant character
continued to arrive,
it
ill
mor(^
especially
tlic
as
the
i>f
fort
Avas
not
calculated
Avithstand
as
rush
such a number
to
of
desperadoes
it.
was
threatened
be
brought
as
against
Amongst the
these
~
'J'hat
That
<,if
they
<
ground
Laut.^'
Dato
A\ith
Jumbali
native
it
tli
head
of Panglinui
W.
these
A\hile
hatl sent
off"
the
S,(l>!,,<"
occurrences, at
the
sanu-
we waited in daily expectation of an attack. The fort was strengthened in a hast_\ and rough
a
manner, round
duty
it,
jiallisading
of stout
forest-sticks
was put
embarkment surrounding
all niglit
and allowed
all
day for
rest.
A
if
cord(ju
some
flotilla
to
made
(n
for
their reception
the (U>[)ths of
forest
and W.
put
me
iuto a
small house
an
ad)a(,'ent
hill,
A.\UN<;
liA.IOW.S.
109
attacked,
and
mc
jungle, while
flanking
fire
attacking the
Here
their
Bulungan men
weapons
and others,
last
lying in a circle
at
-with
hand,
wliile
I.
WQ
-were
r<il-n<iin
By and by the tops of the we made out that it coming down to our assistance
finally
witli supplies of
These experiences occurred during the month of December 188,5, and the l'<iLn<(iii being mucli overdue,
and our Christmas rice and boiled duck no peas, no si'asoning, no apple sauce, and worse tlian all no Christmas pudding, wliilst our
<iur
supplies
were
all
e\hau-;ted,
dinner that
year
ale.
;ind tea
in \\hicli
we
On
'
Stdnne,"'
W. was informed
that these
same Omaddal
people had again been committing various acts of piracy and murder, and that several persons captured by them uere at a little village called Pakerangan accordingly we went there. W. landed with a (c\v police and
:
ti)e
ir.to
110
'J'lie
"'
l)i:<
ADi';
IN
lioKNKt).
liuiidre'd
saw the Dyaks rush along a plank bridge into the chiefs house, from whenct^ wild yells and crashing sounds innnediately proceeded,
yards
tlie
plare,
and
to the
it,
but
in
my
fears
as
it
no one
the house
own
people, and
Dyaks were celebrating the opportunity by shouting and smashing everything that came in their May and slashing at the kadjang walls, as there were
simply
no persons
to
attack.
Seven
men were
recovered on
this occasion.
Once when W. had to go down to punish the Bajows for committing another act of lawlessness, these .same Omaddal people rushed across to the other side of the little island and getting into their boats, the men
lay doAvn in the bottom, the
as they
women
it
poling them
off,
when
fire
and were well aware that no order would be given on them if their women were in danger.
In places
direct influfuce
settling
do\\'n
tn
luider the
they
are
building
to
show
officer
an
was permanently stationed in the Omaddal district a change for the better Mould be soon effected there. The absence of an official, on the other hand, is hardlv fair
AA[(N(;
iiii;
I'.i
1,1
i>ri'ii;s
and
i'.a.iows.
Ill
to
ilicsc
when
is
tliey conu-
Western
civilization
on one ur
adopt better
tlieni
to
(Jmaddal. owing to
its
its
position,
the
number
of
amount
exists
round about,
ClI A
PTKi:
X.
Pirates. Pusiiacity. Sea fia;ht. barongs. Coast ISiiliis. .\.e;ricnltiirists. Amenability. Pioneers in Snln. Phjsiiine of Sulu Vilhige. Pearls. Ponies. Pearl divinp. Difficulties of Sulu lansuajje. Faithfulness of .Vinidc. Vieiousuess of Spaniards. Amuic. Anecdote. Jealousy.
of
Bad
Costumes.
Haiidsonie
(liiiractcrs.
SULU
Spaniards
is
a small but
situated iu
hour's
tlie
It
some 250
thereabouts.
may
this
book to it, but the connection between it and Sandakan has always been Acry close, and the going and coming between the two places, has been and is very considerable, Sandakan drawing mucli of its
supjtly
of
fruit,
poultry,
ponies,
&c.,
from
thence,
Sulus.
The numerous
Sugh, as the
of the sea,
is
a perfect
gem
and together with Tapul and other islands, consists of open park-like glades, the trees for the most part being mango, durian, or other large fruit trees, or teak. The islands are small, the atmosphere is cool, a pleasant sea breeze is always blowing, and the inhabitants are very strong and healthy as well as numerous, and
Mere
to
it
nature
which leads
constant
SUl.l'
AND THE
SUIA'S.
113
the war witli
As
it
is,
Avhich are
always in progress.
of immigrants to
North Borneo.
actually pirates,
communities of lUanuns and Balignini were always to be found haunting their neighbourhood, the Sultan
and other headmen having the first pick, free of cost, of all persons captured by them in return for the shelter and encouragement they afforded these desperadoes. One of the consequences of this is, that the population is a very mixed one, ]\[anilamen, Banjermassins, Singapore people, and others kidnap[)ed by the pirates, forming no inconsiderable portion. Altliough the
Sulus did not tliemselves practice piracy as a
nity, the
commu-
spirits amon'^st
numerous owing to the existence of such a class of reckless and even ferocious sailors, prepared to fight at a moment's notice, that trade was able to be carried on at all in face of
tlie
between
It
was
only
tliese
waters so
The innate
did not care
love of
it
who
combat was such, that they was thev fought so loncj as there
114-
A DKCADK
fi'^lit.
IN'
BORNEO.
auiniatiun with which
lo
Avas a
rcincmbfr
tlic
of a sea-iight between
Date Beginda Putih and Dato Beglnda Etani. The \vc\\ known pirate Dato Kurunding) taken the seas, had already captured two or liaving
three
prahus
cousin
fleet
is
bound
from Darvel
Bay to came
boat
own
Nvhen a pirate
it
sea
it
attacks
every
meets regardless of
at
tight
ties
of nationality or family,
once went for his cousin, who fled, and a runGelanee related with the keenest ensued. and deliglit the brave way in whieli the animation
he
ning
and banners flew the deafening and defiant beatings of the gongs on both sides, as the long narrow boats bounded across a lively sea, their red, yellow and blue sails filled with tlie stiff" breeze; the whoops and yells of both pursuers and pursued, (who quite entered into the spirit of the thing); the popping of the
flags
;
rifles,
and the wild splashing as they frantically paddled througli the dancing waters beneath a cloudless sky and The whole aftalr for tlios(^ who love a brilliant sun. warfare and the sea must have been most exliilarating. There were some thirty boats in tlie engagement,
I
but
however
detail.
go in
for
The
they
much
to effect; the
tliat
arms of their
fit
they
like skins
SVLl'
AM)
lir,
SUI-US.
1 I.')
and sometimes they are obliged to have their trowsers sewn on them or buttoned about the ealves of their N(3t only in legs and ancles, so tight are they.
the
tit
of their clothes
are
they
great
dandies but
much
in
no unusual
is
gay head-dress formed of a largo square handkerchief much embroidered round the border is twisted about the head, one corner nattily screwed up over the left ear, with a very jaunty effect; round
woven.
the waist a gay sash or cummcrband, formed of two or three strips of brilliant coloured flannel sewn together, gives a fluish to the costume.
t]\e
box is concealed, and also stuck through ir is a handsome wooden sheath, which contains the broad and dangerous Sulu barong or sword without which no costume is complete. barongs "' are often very The handles of their handsome, made of ivory, gold or silver, and beautifully chased, and in the case of ivory, skilfully carved. The
sirih
''
buttons of
tlieir
they
have a great love of je^\ellery and wear many rings, preferring those of very large size set with agates and
cornelians or a greeny blue stone.
The women
shell
often
which
They
men
oft"
and go in for many startling combinations. When on the war path, the Sulu dand}- shaves one side of his moustache (if he boasts of such a II 2
IG
])E(Ai)]:
IN'
ii(H{m:(>.
facial dccovalion).
eftect
and
first
is
an intimation that he
comer.
The above remarks apply more particularly to the Coast Sulus: the " orang gimber " or agriculturists are
not by any means
class of
sucli
much more
reliable
be very
stubborn,
own sake
same wav.
Tlie former
make a very
useful
and
working community.
As regards
their physique,
above the (ordinary ^lalay standard; they are very lithe, wiry and athletic rather than muscular, althougli there
are exceptions,
stroiig
and
thick
set.
we have encouraged
huge and prosperous
filled
"imber."
villaire
ikjw quite
of
them
all
to overflowing, as
new comers
down
to a quiet agricultural
in
a country where
they are undisturbed and allowed to reap the fruits of From time to time, as occasion offers, their labours.
M'c give tlu-m
when
fairly dealt
satisfactory
abidiuir.
employment and find them on tlie whole, with and not too hard pressed, a very and reliable set of people, and quite law
SULU AM)
Tlie
Litter
fact
is
TIIF,
sn.is.
innrc
curious,
as
117
at
at
all
the
luuno
all,
in
it
Sulu
they
cliaractcr
and
are told,
a
when
totalh"
they
return
to
Sulu,
immediately assume
different attitude,
The relationship existing between ourselves and them is of a feudal nature, the Sulus being expected to turn out and help in any Avay Avhenever occasion
demands, they receiving for their
food and tobacco only.
of head-men,
labcjur
their day's
There
is
a sort of committee
good behaviour upon whose recommendation new comers are allowed to settle and enjoy the advantages along with the others. They are a happy, thriving and increasing body, and do A\ell by tlu^ sale
are responsible for the
who
and chickens. The two follouing instances give an idea as to what sort (.>f men the Sidus aro when at home in Sulu.
Pioneers there have an luicomfortable time, especially
if
The
front door of a
European house was (piietly unhinged one night and laid on the lawn in front, where the inmates found it next morning; this was intended as a
gentle
liint
power of
On another
occasion,
more some
theii-
who had
118
A DECADE
IN
KdlJN
K*.).
is.
in
pronuuciiitioii,
(juitc
am
vuiable to say.
<tii<'i
As
for instance
water
^lalay
Sulu toohhj
Sulu hat
Sulu
ibrrffat
house
sea
I
Malay Malay
ri'ntx/i
/'"'/
may mention
liero.
that
W.
and
use in
The Sulu Arc'hipelagi.) is chiefly famiuis for the and jiearl shells found in large beds in its shallow seas. The pearls are of great purity and value and occur in the large oyster, the same s{)ecios as that found off the coast of Australia. Each individual shell is as large as a pie plate, and they are valued at about 4-0 per ton. The pearls are found in but few of them
pearls
and what pearls are obtained are Occasionally very large and fine ones are fuund, the largest I ever heard of was valued at if^IOjOOO, whilst the finest I myself ever saw was said to h'.i ^vorth )j;'2.000. and was in size as large as the top joint of my thumb; it \\as liowevrr far from perfect,
.sake of the shells,
regarded as prizes.
China
is
a great
market
for pearls,
and a large
to
we
do.
.sui.i'
AM)
TiiF,
yri.rs.
1!>
Thcfc
is
size,
when
a sort of
myth
mother of the
It is
late
Chinaman take
display to one's
out
rif
his
bit
pocket a
a dozen
little
with a
of string,
view half
pearls
collectively, several
thousand
dollars.
amphibious; some of them are remarkably good divers, and can descend to depths of ()() and 70 ft. without any apparatus or Aveight whatever, and bring up the oysters from the bottom.
All Sulus arc ([uito
in
women, under
will
to their complexions.
The
good
many
is
we
weedy
animal of which act as possessed by some They shy, bite, kick, and %ht, and are ovil spirit. altogether the most unreliable wicked little beasts The only attempts yet made to put ever invented.
them between
been known
noon,
shafts,
have ended
in the
speedy and
One has
one
after-
men
in
who
all
patched up.
120
l)i:(
ADI'.
IN
IKtUNKo.
The Sulu
(jf
saddle
made
of
is
placed,
the bridle
wood made
is
is
all
that
way
of
of the
head
of
making the
animal squint.
Some
wvy
far
dare not go
constantly
outside
its
gates,
and
the
walls
arc-
patrolled
by a cordon of
sentinels.
For
some time after they occupied the p^ice, the walls were of no great height, and were composed of palisades; it became a favourite amusement of the reckless Sulus
to scramble over the barriers, rush
cutting
down
on the other
On one
or
missed being massacred. All this tended to cause the Sulus to regard the S[)aniards with Quite recently, a Spanish governor, considerable scorn.
down by the arrogant little imp. The Sulus however have their good
and
:
they like and trust to those are very true and staunch Dato Ilaioun al Raschid came to Sandakan just before
.suj,u
AND
tilj:
.Sl'l.US.
121
lie
first
time he had
come here
to
visit
in
1880.
He went
a
pay his
isit
of ceremony to
W. accompanied by
somewhat numerous retinue, all beautifully dressed and decorated, and fully armed also, as is customary. Just bef(n"c he arrived however, we Avere somewhat astonished by the appearance of a still stronger body of Sulus, many of whom we knew ])ersonally. They
Avaited
about
squatting
in
the
verandah
us,
during
and stopped When the Dato after he had taken his farewell. had gone we enquired the object of their visit, and never after some time discovered it, for a Malay
the whole time the Dato was with
comes
bush,
about the
just
as
and
only
It
discloses
his
tlicy
real
object
he
is
leaving.
appeared
visit,
ill
Dato's
intended
and
feeling, liad
us in case
One
fully
of
them told me they had a number of boats manned and armed close by, but hidden by fort
was on
this occasion, wlien conversing witli the
I
Avife
concerning polygamy.
about much.
She said
her
Her husband liad once, taken a second "' I stuck a knife in her. Avife but, she laughingly added and siion got rid of her, and since then he has not tried it on anv more."
('
11
A I'T K
\l
]\I
T,
A V
<
'lianietei'.
App'-aranct^. Womf^u's UeliKion. Indnlenco. Prodigality of nature. Contentment. Music. Dancing Domestic relations. Divorce. liouses. Ivindness. Cliildren. Massa^je. Education. Ornaments. Sirih chewing. .Vnecdote. Marriage. Needle work.
fostiiine.
I'roiierty.
Ijau,i<uay:e.
I'o-
iy,:,'ani\'.
A
one
to
sit
MORE
t<j
lowest
all
is
are
alike
charm
of manner, that
very attracfaintest
though
deferential,
there
is
not
the
easy
and natural
is
in
manner.
On
A'isiting
them,
spread
collect
pleasantly
recci\cd,
conducted gracefully to
is
of local interest.
fV)r
Meanwhile orders have been given chocolate Mhich in due course is served with sweet
of the house doing the honours
very prettily.
There
the
is
I'ude
in
Malay nature;
such characteristics
are
and there
is
about
them nothing
races.
When
once they
know and
unbounded; they
is
followed implicitly
tln'ir
childlike
manner,
and
MALAYS.
love
12ii
and
trust,
In colour
generality
much
like
the
Japanese.
as do not
Many
The type bling in complexion Southern Europeans. bridge of the nose almost of face is Mongolian, tlie
flat,
high clieek bones, and elongated eyes: the hair hands and feet small <trai"-ht, luxuriant, and black
;
and delicately made. They arc personally very clean, bathing night and morning; and are very particular about washing their hands before eating, (which is the more necessary, as they eat with their fingers) neither do they omit to
cleanse their
mouths
are
The women
attire,
very
neat
and
s[)ruco
in
tlicir
which
are often of very pretty patterns and colours, while their long loose kabyahs or jackets, which reach to
I
and finished
off
with a
-of
edging.
Their ornaments
are brooches
pin.
earrings,
rings,
wish
to
be
smarter than
throw large
flowers
their hair
silver
witli
sweet
suielling
pins.
Although .Mohammedans,
all events.
They
nails
go
barefooted,
and dye
it
their
finger
and
toe
with henna.
so ofi^ensive
Were
make
their
all
mouths
indulge
124
in of clicwing
A DIHADH IN BoUNKO.
sirili,,
llicy
would be
l";ir
more
attractive-
looking; as
it is, tliciv
and
their
The
holes in
tlio
and the
stud.
rolls
If
style
of earring
possessed
not
of cloth.
and
stuff
Momen
men smoke.
The ^lohammedan
ments
it
religion,
senti-
instils
Prophet seems to
me
to
Englishmen
of the
with
r(\^ard
to
this
faitli.
The
the
root
matter appears to
well
be.
that the
while
only,
Christians
Jews have
Old
as
as
the
New
Mahommedans have the Old, the New, and yet another new gospel in addition, which they contend supercedes
the
New Testament
refuse
belief
in
the same
manuer
it
as
is
the New-
Testament
they
witli us supercedes
in
the Old:
not that
the
either th(^
a\
Old
or
Newthe
Testaments any
in
niorc^
than
liave received
New
medan,
no doubt of the sincerity of the Mohamavowal ()i' his faith (juite puts to shame our pallid and deprecating treatment of religions matWherever a Hadji may be at ters in every day life. sundown, he then and there kneels dow n, his face to
There
is
his open
MALAYS,
the setting
sun,
12.>
and says
a
liis
prayers with
face, at intervals
difficult,
bowing
his
daspcd head
to the
Mohammedan
is
by Avorking amongst
the children whose ideas are not yet formed, and eduAnother instance of cating them up to our creed.
their steadfastness to their religious principles
is
their
adheranee to
its
may
be: they
any
dislike to
it.
Much
is
as
I like
the Malays,
must
I
confess, however,
no very distant
period,
merged
of British
well
to
civilisation, for
they thrive
not
and do
being a
remarkably
are
under
areas,
it,
but that,
numerous race
over
commence
they
wide
inter-marry
a mixed
with other
in
form
community
which
With regard
go-a-head
am
fain to suggest
Anglo-Saxon race
might
Nature
is
degenerate
so lavish
become
kind
is
no incentive
amount of work
only
required
bestowed im the
only needed
for
decency's
12G
for coukiiii^lliau
DKCADK
IX
IJOliNKO.
and
tliore is
always uKjrc
do
Avitli,
^vo(,l(l
lyinL;'
is
about
to
liouse-rooni
obtain-
amount of labour, and all the expensiviand habits -which we are so rapidly augniontin^-
know nothing
about,
desire or ambition to
Neither
is
force
They
carr}- their
becomes the
labour
hunger
over a
suffices
for
of plain
them.
are very musical, but their
instruments are of a most primative description, gongs and drums being the chief. A " Kalingtangan " is a
scries of small
gongs of differing
on strings
obtained.
The gongs
h<j>wever,
started
it
;
goes
the
on without intermission for three days aiid nights performers replacing one another at intervals.
The
and is often plainly and is not disagreeable discernable two or three miles even to European ears. The drums are made of deer or snake skin strctclicd over a frame, the latter skin
sound
carries
long
Avay
off,
MALAYS.
l)eing the
127
move valued
Of European
is
so far as
Nortli Borneo
They have concocted one tune of half which they phu" night and day; it is
for the
a
to
dozen bars
be hoped
compose another. Some few aspire to the fiddle, but have n(^t arrived at any particular tune. When payingvisits to European houses the pianos are a source of great Avonder, delight, and admiration, and they listen -with the most rapt attention and pleasure to anyone })erforming, and are also greatly interested in the
construction of tliese instruments.
])ancing of a sort,
are fond, but
it
is
an amusement of which
the
thc\"
it.
is
cliiefly
men who
to
indulge in
shuffling steps
a species of
is
go
in for,
gay
silk
handkerchiefs being
in
much
in
request, Avhich
The
entirely
posturing;
tlie
performers
scarcely moAc from one spot, but with outstretched arms twist and turn the fingers and move the hands a little of this for an on-looker goes a long way, and after a couple of hours becomes even monotonous. The houses arc by preference built over the sea. The flooring is composed of lengths of split nebong (a kind of palm whose wood is very hard) placed at intervals, and through the interstices, which are numerous and wide, all the rubbish of tlic household
:
is
when the
tide
rises
is
carried away,
house
left
128
A DKCADE IX IJoIlNKO.
trouble.
!Mal;iy
any
tlie
that there
floor.
numerous
almost equivalent
rope to move in
fish
being
it is
educated
for
the
tight
them;
in
even possible to
lie in
bed and
tlirough
W.
tells
mo
tliat
when
first
he arrived
in
done
One portion
apart as the
is
surrounded
In the
"lawang"
portable property
of T. cloth,
besides
and clothing of
is
all
sorts;
Otherwise there
no
fui'iiiturc
tables
sit tailor-fashion
that
marks a decided
if
step
towards civilization.
is
Occasionally,
the
house-owner
be seen
creese
rich,
several
Avails,
expensive gongs
may
hung upon
or
the
while there
reacli.
is
always a
barong
within
MALAYS.
12!)
is
leavn
one
is
anv sueh
difficult,
intricacies as
it is
so
yet
almost as expressive.
affection
Xo
great
between
husbands
When
a divorcee marries
new husband he
is
is
and good to children. Frequently stray children, known anak artim," are to be found in Malay villages as belonging to nobody in particular, but taken care of by
the
community
little
at large.
It
much
they
ibr clothing, as. until they are four or live years old,
beyond a necklace or bangles. The houses arc so elastic that an odd two or three
wear
or no clothing
u[) in,
one finds
are
them absolutely swarming with creatures all very happy and dirty.
prettily
little
naked brown
The youngsters
formed little and resemble little animated bronze statues. Not Malay children only, but young Easterns of all countries are far less troublesome, noisy, and fractious than Europeans: they rarely cry or become a nuisance to any
body.
mites,
are
comfortable, contented
toddle
in
amuse
tlie
themselves
sj)lashing
shallow seas,
hi[.
she ha\
1
iiig
130
1(1
l>i:<Al)K
IN
lldJiNi.O.
bcml
lirr
Ixxly
td
her arm
for support.
ot"
the treatment
and
incorrect,
and
it
results
the survival
ot"
the
fittest:
([uito
is ill
Whenever anybody
do\\ n
to
mark
this
diaginjsis
may
be.
They have
sonic
relief in this
way when
rheumaall
A ^Malay woman
kneads and
manipulates
out;
and graceful.
(pieer
it
ways of arranging
is
hair:
sometimes
is
all
shaved
with
off?
another the
long
head
entirely
shaved
is
the
allowed to grow
straggling
lock
unfortunate
to the
all
chikrs
one.
fai'(>
and
little
In
one instance
e\ccj)tion
shaved with
the
of
two round
tlu>
lu'ad
which has
a very comical
According
to their lights
teach them
through the thin walls of the houses one may liear all intoning together in a mannei' that a High Church
curate wduld iiiudi eii\v.
MALAYS.
131
The
cocoa-nut
.M;ilny w
luiir
quantities of straiglit
vaven-bhick
tliey
profusely
anoint
with
and dress very neatly in a thick coil at the back of the head. They do not consider the toilet
oil,
complete
till
it.
which
is
very
is
pretty
cut and
stylo.
A
four
IMolmminedan
w ives. but
must ne\er exceed that allowance complement at once if it so please him. and ho feel competent to support so many at one time. As a rule Sidus have but one. while ^[alays often have two or three. In one family that 1
tru(>
he
may go
am
a
well
For
her head,
1
and after a few years he married another. Wife No. was very peaceful, though vacant, a perfect cypher in
the household after
line
No. 2
s(juabbles.
and
jealousies
of
all
Icinds
(lri\en
little
husband
at last
was
oppartunities
for
display,
as
feasting,
A Malay
girl is
much
concerned about
as
an
l']nn-lish
132
belle.
A DKCADi:
TIk^
l\
liOKMlo.
nidoal
is
a .s^jmcwhat
Ion;,'
ot"
for with
clown
a
in
expressionless and
t>-orgeons
for
at
beneath
aiul
dra\\'u
aside so
may
duty of bridesmaids,
about
tlic h<:)use
gay
m Inch
throng circulate
bride has to
and chewing
body
sirih.
through
all
tlie
Every-
wears
their
best
clothes
and
the
While
in
the
back
as
premises
is
much
preparing
and
cooking of comestibles
in progress.
liave
The women,
many
is
of thenr
very
clever
emt)roiderv.
but
the
-vviiich
wlien
one
considers
rhe
hours
devoted
stretch
to the
They
th(>
sit
cross
legged
(>!
sfjuat
needle up
and down so regularly and beautifully that the back of their work is as good as the front, and it is diffieult to hi" which is which. patterns are traced in tell
1
by
pricking,
and
in
rubbing chalk
scrolls
the holes.
T!ie
designs
vogue are
know.
The
of Chinese manufacture,
tiieir clevei-
it
slightly
and making
\\oi'l<
(>\enl\-.
Their cond)lna-
MAJ.AVs.
13.':5
crude in dye.
The Brunei
in
won^eii
aix'
some and
They
also
it
The decoration
It is chiefly
on the coats
is
often
sometimes being
laid (Ui
with great
effect.
other
the j)rodiiction
turbans
for th(^
adornment of their lord and master. Every ^lalay carries a sirih box. wltliout which
toilette
his
would not be com[)lete; just as in the old days our great grandfathers and grandmothers carried their snuffboxes: bot!i habits I consider repulsive, and do
not
much to choose between them. Women as men are adicted to this horrid habit. The sirih boxes are usually made of brass, prettily chased, but now :ind tluMi silver boxes are used. l^h(>y contain
see
well
as
rocopticlos.
])air
:i\so
of brass,
cutters,
th(>
for
the
a
and a
\\ith
of
to
bi'tel-uut
and
on
of
tinv
sirih
spoon
leaf.
which
sirih
spread
lime
bits
the
betel
Fresh
leaves,
small
(or
are(?ai
nut, resembling
made
tVoiu
ami
cub"
i;^,
ii:<
ADi:
in
r.oijMio.
two of <^ainbiei' arc the necossnry inL^nfcUent.s; a small atom of eaili w rapped uj* iii tlu- leaf affords
or
much enjoyment.
allays
thirst
I
It
is
also
said
that sirih
elunvin,:,^
when
I
travelling,
iiavo
about this
nc\er
been
abh^ to
up
sufficient
couraue to
try.
('
II
PTKK X
8in(;ai'oi{e
to Sandakax.
Scriicry of Docks. Heaiitiftil vdiid?. StroutsceiU'S. Jinrifkslias. (harries. ^Vlloull)oa's Ljiirdeii. \V'lu>iM])oa'ti history. Iiiseot.s. Animal collectors. Xo poverty. -Meaiiiiis of Siiitrnpore. Shij)]iiii;?. Odour. CliangU'. Johore. Ti.irers. Hosiiitality. Local boat.*. Cockroaches. Malay prisoners. Crowded steaniertj. Lahuan. Kesonrces oi'. tioverninent f louse. Fruit trees. Jaya. Kina Balu. Kudat. ^uusets. Fisliiiijr.
THE
weeks spent upon a P, wearisome repetition, so the journey and begin dating from Singapore.
I
&
I
this
paper
witli
an account
my
experience
my
it
I
wanderings
cannot
The scenery
is
at the
westward enall
luxuriant foliage
to
the
water's edge,
little
boats
skimming
to
and
fro,
The Docks at Singapore are situated a long way from the town. The drive to the European quarter through the native portions oi' the settlement is a verv
uninteresting
one,
for
the
wav
lies
througli
neulv
lo<i
ii-;(
aim;
in
Uoknkc.
into
stiti'
no
way and
down on dusty
think that
many
who
the
beauties
of the place,
their
explorations
rarely
at
town, a titHn
('hi:i
an
se stores,
and the
tiring road to
same hot, dusty and Tanjong Paggar Wharf, or beyond, wherdrive along that
1
Singapore as
is
soft
great
C(jol liouses
madr
and
the lovely yellow alamanda with its large glossy leaves grows in great clumps, adding with tlie bourgain -villea,
flamboyant
of
anrl
scarlet
flcjwercd
tulip
tree.
t<Hiches
j)rofuse
and luxuiiant
nuisscs of greenery.
As
to be desired.
Even
in J'higland
kept, while
a^^
earlv
morning or
added
cool evening
lo
is
^ery
the
anil
enjoyable,
A\hich
all
SlXGArORE TO SANDAKAX.
objects
at
137
that
home.
meet the eye are totally unlike those One after another are to be seen Indian
of pine apples, unwiuldly buffaloes,
to eat,
carts full
two prosperous looking celestials seated side by side in ii Victoria driven by a Malay syce, and drawn by a pair of very fine horses, a row of Chinamen squatting upon their heels on the top of a low wall. Then a market is
passed by,
full
of mal-odorous jack
fruit,
lying side
by
side with
delicious
refreshing oranges.
Next
is
The conveyances
classes in Singapore
chiefly
affected
by
the lower
drawn by Chinese coolies, usually very lean but with an enormous development of the muscles of their calves. It is wonderful to remark the strength with which a man, a perfect bag of bones, drags along the ricksha in which are seated, pleasantly ccmversing or fanning themselves, two big fat men of his own nationality who
balator witli shafts like miniature liansome cabs
regard their unfortunate countryman merely as a beast of burden, and worthy of no more pity or sympathy
These rickshas are only used by Chinese and natives: Europeans and half castes,
Chinamen
ponies.
affect
hack carriages
drawn
by
fiery
little
Battick
'J'hese
tiny
animals
138
]i:iAi)i;
in
noRNKo.
pretty
bigger
and manes, fiery restless eyes and dilating nostrils, dashing along at reckless speed in the most undaunted manner, altlrough they may have a Inid of five persons besides the carriage behind
them.
Tlic
f^uropeau
residents
fine
Australian
horses.
The
Singaporeans pride thenisehes on their knowledge of horse flesh and arc very fond of racing.
One
the talc
of the
"Wlinmpoa, as his
show
places
is
I was told about him, is that in his early dayshe was employed in a Hongkong bakery at a time when China was at A\ar ^vith England. Certain man-
else in
tlicy
Hongkong
incited
tlie
AV]i<:mpoa,
one
of the men, having a partiality for the English informed the British officers. This inl'ormatiou arrived almost
too
late,
for
tlic
bread had
already
been delivered.
all
Warning was
were very
ill,
at once sent
cases
believe
died.
The
have overtaken
Whompoa had
he remained in Hong-
kong, sent him to Singapore and set him up in business there. He throve and prospered and finally became very
Such
is
the tale as it
.SINGAI'OKK TO
SANDAKAN.
I'M
is
hang pendant
in great
of
tlie
higher trees.
curious feature which strikes a
surburbs, awake the first night, is the ceaseless Avhirring and buzzing sounds made by myriads of insects and other creatures of all kinds, which commence at sun down and do not cease until morning. Cicadiie, mole
crickets,
and
goat
suckers, besides
many
others go to
accustomed
to visit
Wlien staying in Singapore it is not uninteresting an animal collector's premises, there are usually
in the
away
find
native toAvn.
newly trapped and very savage tigers in very small and apparently insecure cages, baby orangutans, small elephants, monkeys by the dozen, parrots, mynahs, argus and fire-back pheasants, peacocks, apes, &c., and
tapir or rhinoceros,
sometimes a real curiosity such as a black leopard, a all waiting for shipment to distant
Zoos.
K 2
140
UF.t
ADK
IN
IM^KN'Ko.
so a{)parent in
are.
be,
poor enough, but their wants arc few and easily Clothes supplied and hunger is virtually unknown. recpiired for decency's sake, and with sucli are merely
bri'^ht
genial
surroundings, .their
spirits
are
more
grey
buoyant than
prosperity
would be possible in
;
this
cold
En"-land of ours
in
and
seem to me the chief attributes of this The brilliance thriving and delightful little colony.
of the
sparkling
water of the
harbour,
greens
which grow in such profusion, the waving palms, the clumps of feathery bamboos through whose rustling leaves the soft winds sigh, the velvet-like laures which
never grow parched or dry, the line red roads, the cosmopolitan crowds M-hich throng the busy streets, the strange chatter of a babel of unknown tongues and the
at every turn,
me
and
is,
Singa to
a
call,
it
call,
name
justly
number
very considerable, lying on the high road between Europe and India on the one side and China on the
other, while
it
is
trade
between
Batavia,
Native States, the Eastern and Australian Islands geneIt is the rally, and Saigon, Ciiina and Japan beyond.
SIXGArORM TO SANDAKAX.
second biggest coaling port in the world
the largest distribntor
of
rice,
141
the islands
eastwards
which do not raise sufficient for their own consumption. Important though Singapore is, it is only yet in the
infancy of its prosperity compared with what
the future
it
will be in
when
As to the number of ships that call there now, 1 remember on one occasion when looking out for tlio arrival of a rchitivo from England, that no less than
seventeen vessels were signalled at the signal station
curious odour of
its
by any means unpleasant, and mainly suggestive of It is sometimes plainly spices, pineapples and flowers.
discernible
when
tlie
is
steamer
is still
at
blowing
not so
perceptible
when you
breadth
of
the
little
tlie
mainland of Johore
is
very interesting.
fields,
The way
lies
lemon-grass estates,
liill
in
which
The road all the way is excellent and kept in splendid condition, flanked
off the
heavy
most of the
^\ay it is slicltered
from the
142
DKiAOl-;
IN
li(tI{Ni;().
(jf tlauil)i>\
ant trees
Avitli
whose
{'uU
in conjunction
tlie
extremely pretty
town of Johore as regarded from Changie. is every height is crowned with a handsome building in the centre of a fine garden. The Sultan's
;
The
Strait itself
is
about
j^
of a mile across.
my
llianks to
many
placing at
i'acilities.
our disposal
steam
launches
and
other
visited
whenever we have
if
Johore.
I'he return drive to Singapore,
fall,
made towards
night-
are nearly
alwavs knuMii
to
wav
;i
my
rcmnan' wf jungle
left,
are
undoutedly
making
Nvithin
ISS.'i
^\]un
in
W. was
cr(jssing the
was caught
a pig pit
100
i^f
bottom
to
wlieu
lie
passed.
The hosjiitality always shown by the Singaporeans new comers or passers through accredited with letters
is
of introduction
in the
voyage
SINGAPORE TO SANOAK.W.
particularly enjoyoblc;
143
tlie
the
licat
inseparable from
is
charming contrast to the chilly insular reserve one is accustomed to at home. I am told that I have been very fortunate in having cool weather on my several stays in Singapore, still I could have wisliGd it two or three degrees cooler.
In addition to the
many more
lie
anchored in the
all
Hags and
variety to the
ply between
tlie shore and the ships carrying passengers and cargo. The change from the fine comfortable P. and 0. steamer to the little local boat in which the remainder of the voyage to Borneo has to be undertaken, is very great and cannot be accounted an agreeable one, especially when crowded by coolies as they sometimes are. Most of them boast of a particularly fine and large description of cockroach, a most loathsome beast. Coolies sometimes occupy every available inch of tlie dock, and what between then\ above and cockroaches below, the life of a first class passenger is not a very enjoyable one, though I freely and gratefully acknowledge that the captains do all in
There are cabins in the saloon but they are rarely used except as dressing rooms, being far too hot and confined.
144
not to speak
DKCAItK IN BORNKO.
tlu;
of"
rats,
time comes,
may
making
little
camps
at different
if
big enough
When
rest,
one's
slumbers
may
;
of prisoners
women
hunters.
a\
ith
Dyak gutta
Arab traders, ponies, cattle, pigs, chickens, crowd the deck in the most chaotic confusion, yet all secMu happy, and most good naturcdly nuike tho best of the circumstances. The men squeeze themselves as small as they can when one is treading over their prostrate bodies, and the mothers sweep their numerous progenv out of the way. and 1 must say that they are far less objectionable than a similar crowd of low
ducks,
all
me. and
They remember
on one (jccasion how an Arab trader commiserating my sufferings from sea-sickness, undertook to cure me
with a decoction
the remedy
(jf pepper and lemon juice, but the poor man's good intentions were of no avail as I found
the disease.
all
these
much
SINGAl'ORF- TO SAN
DAK AX.
145
is
concerned
in.
to accomplish the
made
on the way.
It
to three and a half days to steam from Singapore to Labuan, during which time one sights no land except
the group
of
islands
known
as
tlie
Xatunas.
and
Labuan
Borneo, and
is
it
it
In
more populous place then at present, thougli latterly it lias been coming to the fore asrain. and will no doubt in time become of more importance than it is at the moment, as it possesses coal of good quality and unlimited quantity, while the
days gone by,
was a
of importance opening
on
Labuan Bay. will in time, as population grows, cause it to become a considerable depot and centre. The grounds attached to (jovernnient House at Labuan are charming, and quite park like in their
effect
itself
is
big
rambling
but
orchards and gardens, and irom it, and the island of Sulu, North Borneo has hitherto chiefly drawn its supplies of fruit. Here are to be seen plantations of cocoanuts,
orange, lime, and mangosteen, besides durian, langsat,
rambutan, banana, and most other tropical fruits. The Labuan mango has been brought to great perfection, chiefly owing to the attention bestowed upon it by Sir Hugh Low, when Governor of the colonv. Most of
14"6
i)i::(:.\DK
i\
born 1:0.
tlicse fruits
back a few years, and other more pressing matters had to be attended to before j^lanting was taken in hand,
there
tu
lias
tlic
fruit trees
here
rest
of the voyage
:
is
Gaya which
is
the
first
of the B. N. B.
Company's
and boasts of grand and majestic scenery. From here one gets a view of Kina Balu the largest mountain l.OOO feet higli, a fine and in all Borneo, nearly
ports,
1
topping
mean height.
The
is
made
is
to
dangerous
and
cannot be
accomplished
after
dark.
lost to the
Some twelve
Tobacco Estates.
liours or so later
Kudat
is
readied, the
Bay
The sunsets
of the setting
on the
in
hues
tender greens.
stillness
reigns
supreme,
broken only
palm
tree,
SlN'liAPORE TO
SAXDAKAN.
liere.
M'7
tlie
is
made
oidcn-
Aveiglied.
tlie
and
we
the
are
About tliis part of oti' on our way once more. voyage the day's monotony is not infrequently
broken by the capture offish, 'ilie mode of fishing is somewhat odd; a L)ng line is procured with a large
strong hook
i)f
at
tied
part.
When
it
fish,
springing
at
Avliite
rag
is
hooked,
upon
wliicli there is
.spot, it
or four
Avaits in
men
to
haul in
Sometimes
the
fish
is
he
pikt-like fish of
up
to
GO
lbs. in
a welcome change
the crew aiul
many
good eating.
II
A I'TKIi
XII.
Sandakax.
Sainlaknn Bny. Fort I'ryer.
T'alialla
licads.
I,a\\s.
Eeven lie.
Farms.
is
Croveriiincut
Olticcs.
Tin' Steam Fish market. Poimlatioii. Slavery. (.'oiustabulary Kouiaii Temperature Rain.
'J'nwn.
laiinrlies.
.
Sea.'ions.
S
It is
^ ANDAKAN
situated
Avitliin
on
tlie
N. E.
coast
it
of
liovnco just
name
bears.
fioni Singapore,
communication
to the
a\
ith
Singapore
most irregular
which proceed
on,
more to bo depended employed to run between Borneo and that little but most important and thriving colony to the north of us. Telegra[)hic communication there is none, so that we are wholly dependent
regularly
on
tlie
It will
therefore be understood
arrival,
and our
when we
get
weeks.
entrance
a very
fini'
natural harb(nir.
The
lialf
miles broad.
Inside the
headlands
its
length
is
The entrance
cliffs
is
of
SANDAKAX.
Baliulla,
119
whose precipitous
palm-leaf houses pco[) out from amidst the greenery and dot the gleaming white shore. A fort erected on the top of Bahalla would make Sandakan perfectly secure from the attack of any enemy, while tlie splendid
land-mark the bold cliffs afford, enable Captains of vessels to steam safely into port at any hour of the day
or night without a pilot.
After rounding Bahalla you will soon find yourself
opposite the town, which, lying on the north side of the bay,
It
is
it.
liills
much resembles
when
is
Dover.
These
in
hills are
the
bungalows, the
a bright and
The business portion of the town lies at the foot number of the streets being built over the sea, on piles made of iron-wood or brick, and raised jetties for foot passengers, answering the
of this hills, a considerable
it
All the
conveyance of baggage,
carry-coolies
&c.
is
done by
ropes.
who
bear
the
loads
slung on
loO
I)K(
ADi:
IN
noRNl.O.
to shonklur.
slioiilder
Tlio
inadi'
of either
tlie
:
Mood
tall,
ur briek
is
owner.
There
not
much
squat,
some are
some are
some
is
there
man
some
()00 feet
long
M'ith store.
head.
half
At the end
is
a coal
godo^n and a
wliile
way down
tlie
is
the
barricade.
lie
Within the
little
estates,'
smart
crafts
steam
off witli
tow,
and Avindows. cases of Pilsener beer, bags of rice and salt fish, and attaps for house thatching, while perched
of
all this
The
sea, is
flag.
Go's
police,
case
of a riot
advantage.
To
are
it
and gaol,
all
above.
SANDAKAN.
The Governincnt
of the tou'n, not far
built
offices are
151
o hirge
well
brick hotels,
wood
building,
all
is
fast
nearing-
completion.
These buildings
Lawn
Tennis ground.
Government House
to the left of
by clumps of bamboo and African oil palms. Bevond again, and further along the shore, arc tMo large Saw
Mills.
In
a
it,
convenient
is
position,
with
garden
surrounding
coolie
the
wards in the
rear.
is
who
communicating
Avith
the
houses.
Roads,
town lighting by means of kerosene lamps, are looked after by the P." W. D. The fish market is (puto a feature of the place, and is daily supplied with a fine and varied assortment of fish, from prawns to rock cod. Situated as it is over the water it is easily kept clean. Here and in the neighbouring shops there is a sort of bazaar, in which are sold fruit, vegetables, salt fish, cakes and other commodities. The one trade of sirih leaf selling, alone, employs a good many persons. The places of worship arc many and various, there is an Anglican Church with a well attended school for
boys, while the establishment of the
is
Roman
Here
Catholics
airain is a
152
A DHCADH 1\ BORXKO.
Avliilc
educating
little
girls
and rescuing tiny deserted babies. A substantial Joss House, where the Chinese worship, is closer to the town, while behind the Government offices is situated the ]\[osque to which the Mohammedans flock on Fridays,
while close to
tlie
barracks
is
a Sikh temple.
The population is a very cosmopolitan one composed of Britisli, Germans, Dutcli. ^Malays which includes 8inga[)ore and Penang men, Bruneis, Dyaks,
Bajows, Sulus, Ikigis, Banjermassins, Javanese, Chinese,
Sikhs, Indians. Arabs, Somalis, &c.
The
total population
as
of
shown by the
last
whom
number being
to in the place.
and children.
When
first
came
Sandakan there
Avas only
woman
The
that
in
is,
the question,
monopoly of dealing
tlic
Opium
farm, the
Gambling farm, and the Pawnbroking farm. Except spirits, opium and tobacco, Sandakan is a free port. Export of jungle produce and such like have to pay
for
who
collect,
The
from
A Mohammedan
priest,
known
as
an
Imaum
dispenses
justice
SANDAKAN.
presides over a divorce court, as
it
153
is
necessary that he
a good
should regulate
all
His time
is
deal
taken up in Court, as these people seem to pass most of their spare time in marrying and giving in marriage,
and then getting divorced, after which tlicy usually start again on the same round. A European police court magistrate always sits, and Sessions Courts are held from time to time as
required.
the
<leath in
the Governor,
who
The Land laws provide for a work being done on all land sold, or
fied
certain
amount of
a speci-
else after
and
its
ultimate extinction
is
All children
born of slave
any
frcsli slaves is
to be
bought or sold
is
The Constabulary
by Europeans,
force of
officered
mainly composed of Sikhs and Dyaks, Avho have to undertake the duties either of policemen
or regular soldiers as occasion demands.
Establishment
is
a quiet unobtrusive way amongst the children (Chinese, Father Byron knowing v,e\l that it
almost an impossibility to convert adult
Mohammedans
L
154
A DECADE IN BORNEO.
ably
assist
the
little
girls,
Sandakan is very good as a testimay mention that nearly all the members of the government staff in 1882 are still here, and absences from office on account of ill health are very rare. If there are any cases of sickness they are
of
1
;
The health
to
this,
mony
sufferer,
wet clothes
in
or taking quinine
when
that
it
is
fever: or
common
sense laws.
The temperature
rarely
'.
rises
Wo
This
is
a significant fact
when one
considers
it
that
we
is
and
in
all
to
kee[>
out
The
marked.
in
At Christmas and
rainfall
New
have a greater
than at
SANUAKAN.
155
get a second sub rainy spell about June, the rest of the year the rain-fall
four
to five
is
We get
times as
much
England
in the
The
rain certainly
a.
hear the
conscious
rain
storms
a
soft
advance
rushing
first
of
sound
tliio
augments and approaches minute by minute, then the leaves on the surrounding trees begin to rustle, the sound increases and comes nearer, squalls of wind shake
the
all
doors
and windows, a few premonitory drops patter on the ground, and then with a sudden roar, torrents of blinding, sweeping rain are upon you. Being so near the equator there is very little
day
at either solstic:.
In
sun
rises
at
and
sets at
In December
rises at ten
minutes
to,
variation
in
customary to say
is
is
no twilight
in
a perceptible
difference
the length
name
originally given by
tliat
W.
to the
new town, has been superseded by (the name of the old settlement),
considerable
confusion,
as
of
Sandakan
"which
has led to
the
original
title
name
deeds
yet
appears
and
documents. L 2
15()
A DKt
ADK
IN
BORXKO.
be roughly described as
The houses we
bii;
live in
may
airy
barns,
built
thatched roots and palm leaf walls. There is a certain kind of novelty suggestive of a perpetual pic-nic about
life
in
first
arrived
it
appeared to
1
me
my
baggage, an
storing
my
belongings in such a fragile and airy tenement, as thtnigh one was asked to take up one's permanent abode in a
summer house
are
indeed,
even
summer houses
at
home
more
domiciles.
large open
a better
comparison.
For
and
suitability
however they are not to be excelled, and being all on one floor there is no tiresome running up and down
stairs.
They
are surrounded by
broad verandahs,
tro['hics
most
of the
witli
more attractive still by stands of flowers, foliage plants and lovelv ferns. It is customary to take early coftce and afternoon tea in the verandah, and it is also a cool
resort after dinner.
The house,
or
bungalow
properly
speaking,
is
usually situated in the centre of a flower garden, which is always more or less o[)en, while to the house itself
there
wallv
is
also
with many kind of handsome or five different kinds, double and single, from
red to
creamv
Avhite.
SAN DA KAN.
oleanders, bourgainvilleas, gardenias,
of
157
roses, jassniines
lillics
two or three
sorts,
honey suckle,
red
and
names
Honululu creeper and many others whose do not know, all flourish and bloom to I perfection in the open air, and ne^d but little caie. The servants are usually Chinese, and if Chinese,
flowers,
name not
I
Our servants
are Cantonese,
them
and tidier than the latter. most conservative race and very cliquey have often been amused to hear a boy I talking the most infamous and incomprehensible Malay to a fellow countryman, and have said "Boy, what for you talkee ]\Ialay along that Chinaman " t( Avhicli the reply is a scornful ' He no belong true Chinaman, he belong Shanghai man. he no can savee my talkee." Our boy and cook we have had for many years, and very good servants they are. The cook has a very
smarter
in
appearance,
are
The Chinese
;
suggestive
name
for
man
of his
profession,
Lam
more usually g(^cs by his sobriquet of 'Lamb Chops," he is a most honest fellow of a luguChong,brious cast of countenance, but he always rises to the
occasion, and the greater
who
the
difficulties
ho has
to
(mcounter, the
more cheerful he
becomes.
He has
ai'companied us on
many an
u[)
behaved most
interior,
loyally,
surmounting
When
the
far
rivers
to
variety as
and prepared as well, and in almost as great though we had been at home, yet the only
158
fire
lie
DhXADE
a
IN
BORNEO.
arrangement; a
had,
was
very primitive
in
clay
fire-basket
made
a turned up
box
filled
with
sand.
His S'Je duty is to provide our meals and to do the necessary marketing; to this end he every morning- makes an early journey to the town, a basket
on his arm and an un\brella in his hand. At the market he buys meat, fish, vegetables, bread, etc. Lam Cliong is sufficient for the day's consumption. a most conscientious account keeper: he and I
frequently have differences of opinion as to the total of the score, and the matter has to be held over for arbitration when he is usually found to be correct.
Ws
At
did not understand his strange and gloomy coming back after five minutes absence, and manner of placing 20 cents by my side declaring in a positive manner that the account '-no b.'long ploper."
first
I
Some persons
cater for
them
at so
much
a day
during the
last three
years the charge per day has risen from igil.OO to $1.50 per head, which shows how the price of provisions has
gone up.
tionate degree.
The reason of
local
this
upward tendency
is
supplies.
Fresh market
gardens, piggeries, poultry yards, and fruit and vegetable patches arc constantly being opened in the suburbs, and this matter will no doubt work
its
own
be
is
cure
in
course
of time,
at
any
rate
it
is
to
hoped
so.
The extreme
cost of provisions
however
number
auction.
of ^Market stalls
SAXDAKAX.
159
Dinner giving Club. soup is about ten
is
Lam
Sometimes
Cliong
after
belongs
these
to
festivities
it
is
served
Lam
is
heard
three
from the
cook-house
a conjunction
of these
circumstances always leads us to guess that it has been one of his Dinner Club evenings. Occasionally he
gets very bad indeed, throws himself on his bed, tears down his mosquito curtain, smashes the bed posts and
one general chaos. This does not happen often, however, and we have to put up with his occasional excentricities on account of
involves all his
surroundings
in
his general good conduct and faithfulness, and as he once with the aid of our Doctor, by his nnrsing largely coutributed towards pulling my husband through a
nearly
f^ital
illness,
my
partiality
for
him
will
be
understood.
Once Lam Chong was sent for by his mother, who had nominated a wife for him, and considered it high
time for him
to
lay aside of
his
bachelorhood.
Lam
(he
Chong begged
his
leave
man
to act as
absence) he obediently set China and disappeared into space, and I thought
had
lost
him
for ever.
Tlie
I
new cook
at all
to
despair
Lam
had not the faintest idea where he was, but sure enough by the next steamer two or three persons brought me messages that he would
160
return
at
A DKrADI-: IN BORNEO.
once,
and
accordingly
in
about
three
more presented
the end of
tliu
system of division of
regular
profits
at
all
contributor
to
participating in
in
tlie profits,
so that
Lam Chong
no
A\'ay
squeezing
at
my
through dealing
particular
shops.
At the present moment there is a Javanese boy. AUitian by name, a most all round useful and excellent servant, ^vho is lost to our sight somewhere in the
centre of that
thickly
po})ulated
island.
When we
He
come
in
him
to return to us.
but we fully expect to see him within three months of our return to Sandakan. The head-house boy, Kai Yip, is a man of about 45, of a most stately and commanding presence; his
personal a[)pearancc
is
when dining
always wears
his feet
out)
attracts
general
admiratiou.
He
in
and ornamental
is
flowers
methods for making plants grow are peculiar, he mixes human hair as well as feathers in the soil,
jjreat
Poor Lain C'lioiig. since tlif nbove was penned. Jias joined tlie majority: thronnh his deatli wt; liavc lost a very faitlifnl servant. The Javant'se boy. AUitian. referred to has since returned to us
as antieipati'd.
SAN'DAKAX.
161
and
utilizes
the
entrails
of Hsli
and
fo^\ls
besides
supply
eftects
ot"
fish
is
titrned to
account.
The-
and blossoms in a surprising manner. To see him perambulating the garden in the cool of tlie morningarrayed in a huge Chinese hat some three feet in
diameter, a tart fruit bottle half full of milk in one
palm of the other to produce butter, whilst he stops and gazes on his particular pets is indeed an amusing sight. Usually
in the
when
M'o
His enthusiasm
is
carried
rain,
heavy night's
in the early
morning he
round
damage
new
some trouble from Penang and brought into bloom after some months of care, as being too muehee fooloo piecee, alia have spoilum " was his verdict \\hen they all drooped and faded so that he was unable to use them for a dinner
''
table
decoration.
His
table
decorations
arc
very
tasteful, his
much
can get
that no belong
China custom."
One of my chief
clothes washed.
It
is
the
162
if tlic
A DECADE
Mcathor
is
IN
BORNEO.
fine tlic
for a
or 4 -weeks
is
nothing
unusual
is,
that
tlic
dry, tliere
is
always some-
money
to
buy charcoal
is
there
is
a stereotyped
is
of them.
The mode
in the
of
cleansing clothes
They
arc beaten
if
bed of
a stream,
the Dhobie
so
considerate as to use a
clothes upon, he
;
to
whack the
man
tliis
is
not
all.
persons
I
why
so difficult to
when once
There
goes
as
recollect
is
alvovs sometliing
to
lost
or
spoilt,
that
1
a foregone conclusion.
On one
'*'
occasion
saying casually
the Dhobie
lie
what have
it is
you
I
?"
''
''
This time"
replied "
ar.d to
my
pieces.
appeared that
it
and
laid
who
and
Ladies are
(India tailors)
all
SANDAKAN.
163
them, for the Chinese* tailors are utterly incapable of manufacturing ladies' garments, Avhereas these Indians,
if
one can but persuade them to do it are very clever at will make any garment, lady's
cover umbrellas, hats,
make
curtains,
Their
in the
work
too
is
always beautifully
neat.
It
is
strange at
first
to see these
men
squatting on a
mat
of their toes as
They
you
in their debt,
woe betide you you never can get any them again, while on the other hand if lend thenr money they will sit down in
till
their tears
to
very great.
Their
curiously
Avhite
costume
fashioned,
sort
of
white
night dress
which they wear wide ornamented with embroidery; perched on their greasy black locks which hang in tight corkscrew curls, a sort of meat-safe arrangement
beneatli
cotton
trousers
by Avay of a
is
water, which
call of the
wah-wah
ape,
this is followed
164.
A DKCADE IN UORNEO.
on a descending Then all the day insects waken up and begin scaU-. their songs, the cicada most noticeable amongst the
crowd.
early
The most enjoyable time ot" the whole day is the morning; during the hours from (> to 8 a.m.
a deliizhtful breeze blows, the sun shines and sheds a glory everywhere, and its heat does not become un-
so.
toast
and
morning
is
garden,
in
household
great
many
cool.
is still
The
office
time the European population disperses to lawn tennis, Dinner parties, riding, billiards, and other amusements.
and occasionally dances, follow. novel sight for any one, not used
It
would be rather
life,
to
Eastern
to see
us start for a dinner party, the lady in ordinary evening costume, but the gentleman (supposing it is not a
at
de white mess jacket and bright lined cummerbu in lieu The lady's conveyance is U light of a waistcoat.
rii/uctir) is
bamboo sedan
;
chair, slung
which are borne on the shoulders of a couple of stout Canton coolies Chinese lanterns are suspended before and behind, the boy leads the procession Avith another lantern, and his master's shoes tied up in a silk [)ockethandkcrchief tlie ladv in her chair follows, and the
;
SANDAKAN.
gentleman brings up the rear on pony back.
165
It
is
customary in the East when dining out to take your boy with you to wait upon you at table, a very
excellent
carried in
coolies
plan.
a chair
not an
is
almost as b;id
which one has the idea that the bearers are being oppressed by one's weight. I have often been carried by comparatively small men quite easily, whereas stronger men sometimes labour and struggle M-ith palpable distress, the whole secret
being that the former understood their business whilst
the others did not.
trot,
They
prefer to go at a
fast
good jog
and
it is
surprising
how
No form
of entertainment
in
is
more
pic-nic
on a large and
and
fine; the
Bay
of
Sandakan
is
this sort
owing
is
and many
inlets
and
Some
nights
it
is
One
the
phosphorescence in
is much brighter than at others. I have seen the Bay turn apparently milky white, the track of every fisli, even the tiniest, denoted by a line of light, and the ripplets made by the bow of the launch cutting tlirough
!()()
Iti:(
ADE
IN
BORNEO.
mc
that no
where
else
beautil'ul
Sandakan Harbour.
CHAPTER
Snakes, scarcetj'' Centipedes. Orangutan.
of.
XIII
Miscellaneous.
Adventure with. Wild Native Wild animals. Rhinoceros. Adventure with. Three shot Crocodile. Man eaten by. Dragon procession. Chinese funeral. Shops. Chit system. Treasury notes. Anecdote. Bamboo. Rattans. Turtles. Turtle AVild Turkey eggs. Agar- Agar. Sea bathing. Ikan Buntal. Birds. Hornbills. Flower show. -Vegetables.
pig:*.
do?.?.
t^ggi^.
THERE
are
wherever
bound
to
you turn in tropical countries, you come face to face witlx a snake. I have a
I
friend
who
mv
don't
know how
may
be iu
Borneo
on
the
borders
jungle
the
have
I
seen
more
were
to
than
half
a dozen
time
during a period
poisonous ones.
of ten years;
none of
Once however
went
it
into
it, saw what I thought was a piece of oil cloth, wondering where this could have come from I looked more closely, and found that it was a snake curled up asleep. I quickly shut down the cover and shrieked for W. who came, captured it with a noose and transferred it to a bottle of spirits. The horrid thing had been visiting my fowls" nests and had swallowed five eggs, which were clearly visible owing to the way the body bulged at intervals.
1()8
The reason wliy there arc not more snakes, is the abundance of wild pigs which eat them, hence ridding
us of a nuisance, thougli they themselves
we regard commit in
It is
also
dry undiMgiowth, as a
big pig runs away from the close neiglibourhood of the S(jnie of the boars have very long tusks orarden gate.
as
tlie
]\[alay States.
They
arc great enemies to the Sulus on our estate as they do much damage to their paddy fields and banana patches,
and often of a morning one hears wild yells and the yapping of a pack of dogs in the forest, and knows that The native and town dogs a pig hunt is in progress. are very clever, forming parties on their own account for hunting, we used often to see tliem trot by our liouse to attend tlie meet without anybody being \\itli
them
European dogs do not make good pig hunters, they arc too plucky and get terribly ri])ped and
at
all.
tliey
down
in chase of,
I have more fear more aversion, are centipedes, these are of tlie They are not largest and most loathsome type. infrequently to be met witli in the liouses, especially if
What
kill and eat the and capture. of then snakes and regard
always
witli
Their bite
is
swellings.
They
are
t'.)
man
crack
is
their
down
in
the
or
MISCKI.I.ANKOUS.
IGJ)
Scorpions
things
and
their sting
is
even
more
common.
There are a good many animals of one kind and another in the forest, monkeys, squirrels and so forth,
besides the larger
game;
if
it
is
soon realized
dogs about,
tJiat
there arc
then
two or three
musangs,
civit cats,
and all manner of vermin making inroads on the poultry yard. There is no harm in any of these animals as ftir as one is concerned, and in fact the musangs can even be
partly tamed.
But there are larger animals in the forest. We have had deer bound across our garden, and on one occasion
a rhinoceros frequented a gully at the back
liouse for
of our
two or three niglits running, the dryness of the season having lured him down to our water supplv.
as they are fond of bathing.
We
wondered the
first
against
which
swore
he
after
darkness,
he
fashion
and
One night he actually came up the water coolies' path, and made his way along the hill top towards the town, but when he turned the corner and saw lights ahead he became alarmed, and returned to
grumbled.
his accustomed haunts: his peregrinations were clearly
They
-went after
him two
or
170
tlicy
A DKCADK JX
r.oRNI'.o.
found a pool
in.
nil
bathing
Just before
avc
left
from one, having no gun -with him, but directly afterA\ ards. his boy rushing up ^\ ith the necessary fire arm.
lie
it.
The animal most peculiar to Borneo is the oranga family of three came down to the edge (.>f the forest close to our house once. W. and I -were returning frum the estate to our house, when Ave saw a little group uf Sulus below a tree, into A\hoseutan
;
all
gazing intently.
i\\v
_\
It
appeared that
thev sent
u[>
That boy
up. but
\\v]\i
We
it
as
very unpleasant to
1
have them
for
went
with
for
Ws
It
Avas a dreadfully
hideous
a
beast,
tlie
stuffed
This
child,
curious feature
to
that
they
seem
cuntract
MlscEIJ.AXEOUS.
171
infatuation for
all
a stningo
'Its
rhinijccros horns and the irall of the orangutan obtain eitlier one or other they amongst tliem. will pay high prices. The most ferocious creature we have is tlie crocodile, and he certainly is to be feared. Rarely a month passes but news reaches us tliat some one or other hasbeen killed by one tliey are most audacious and come right up to the town. Not long bcf )re we left, a Cliinaman picking up drift wood on the shore was siezed by oDc of these brutes, which proceeded to drag hini aAvay; his loud cries however caused his friends to rush to his rescue, and he was recovered, but in a very mauled condition this happened just below the house we ^vere !i\ing in at the time, which a\ as situated in the centu' i>f the town and we heard his cries plainly. One of our men at Pulo Bai went out fishing ^\ith his son at night time in a long 'g>bang" (canoe). The boy went to sleep, but was suddenly awakened by
cines, beingt<.>
:
no
the
uie
man
no doubt a crocodile upset the boat and carried oft". This old man had shortly before brought some charms, which he said would preserve the
;
bearer from harm, as W. was going on an ex[)edition which involved danger; it was (Aving to the absence of these charms that his friends attributed the occurence.
From
crocodiles to dragons
is
Our Chinese sometimes indulge in very fine dragon feasts, the dragon being 150 feet long. This creature lias a huge and grotesque head, the body is composed M 2
172
of
A
yard-s
DKCADK
IN
llOHNKo.
many
of coloured
silk
fastened
round tho
ribs,
is
The moutli
A man
a ball in front
supposed to be pursuing.
lighted crackers which
along, the OA\ncrs of the houses whicli line the way. tiing
<jut
make a
great
noise ami
Hre,
wagging its head and u[)ening and sliutting its mouth It is attended by as though devouring the smoke. bands, playing the most excruciating music, and all
sorts of other extraordinary
behind
it.
will describe
met,
it
S(|uare pieces of
paper
in
silver,
these
left
as they
went ahjng.
greed lor w ith
much occupied
a\
deceased.
Then came
hat appeared to
much
objecting to the
:
situation.
oi' tlie
This
must
tij
have been
tlie coffin
the oljec'
tried
For
my
part
should think
.MIS(
KI.T.ANEOUS.
173
much more
them aAvay. The shops in Sandakan are quite open in tlie front, there are no windows at all. consequently all their goods The shop-keepers squat on plat are exposed to view.
likely to frighten
down
tlio
At night the whole shop front All the every day necessaries of
there are three or four.
closed by shutters.
life
are obtainable in
What
of carrying
is
known
about
as
the chit
system in China
dollars
is
cumbcrous
are current,
all
silver
of
bought,
one docs
its
to give
the
At the end of the month, these are all brought in for payment. There is very little small silver currency, and our transactions of less than a dollar are conducted in North Borneo cents. They are packed in rolls of 50 which
shop-keeper an
0. U. for
value.
arc very
British
and
$-">.
these save a
a $2'i.
exceedingly
heavy.
Malay from foreign upon some of our unsophisticated natives living beyond the centre of civilization. This man took one of the labels out of a Huntlev and
astute parts practiced a
On one
mean
trick
IT-I-
l)i;<
ADK
IN
Ui)I{Ni:0.
it of!"
as
ca
'$25 note,
and appearance, and having- repr<Klueti()ns of prize medals iii)on it wliicli b linked like stamps t<) our ci'i-dulous and buc'lic com[)laint was made to W. about it. and friends
beiu^'
ftt"
sonieuliat the
same
size
Jie
jjave
him two
years'
imprisonment.
the
amongst them
employed
and
is
for
a[)art.
often
for this
purpose and
also equally
nails, for
shoulder.
Rattans are
ties, in lieu
useful,
as rope, sti'ing
of
lumse buihling.
Large kinds
in
llic
intci-inr
Tho.-c turtles
ilic
go ashore
which they
h<les
in
sand, in
la\-
on the
go and
wlieic^
'J'he
collect
tliem
and bring
is
them
in
to
Sandakan.
reserved as a
(jovernnicnt
chief
men amongst the Bajows, as before this system was ado[)ted the collection of these eggs led to much The eggs are round quarrelling, and tn'en fighting.
and
egg,
soil,
and leathery, so that wherever one 1 could never touches them they become indented. summon up courage to try them but I have been told
but
tough
MISCELLANKOL'S.
175
The effffs of a small wild turkev are collected in a somewhat similar manner. Those turkeys make huge
iicsts
sort of
formed of twigs, earth, leaves and grass, into a mound about 1.") ft. across, in the middle of
which they bury their eggs. These are of course nothing like so numerous as those of the turtle but
their nests are to be found all along the coast line.
These eggs are very large, as compared the bird, and are very good eating.
Agar-agar
is
to the
size ot
moss
should imagine
first
it
is
found in coral
seas,
is
when
abounds in our seas and may It is used to be collected by the hundred weight. make a sort of jelly, but is not to be classed with
dried and bleached.
It
isinglass
and
do not like
it.
Cuttle
fish,
tripang or
etc.
beche-de-mer,
keema,
besides
sharks'
tins.
are
always
being
collected
by the
wandering Bajows.
Sea bathing
in fear
is
and trembling
not
only
are
crocodiles and
is
sharks to be apprehended,
stinging medusa^ or jelly
fish,
but the
water
full
of
whose trailers twist them.<;elves round tlie rash bather and sting h'un witli more On two occasions I have known ut ur less severity. native children having been stung to death by them, and to others tliey have occasioned great pain, and what
between
shells
with numerous black thorns [trotruding, and fish that sting, wading in shallow water also has its drawbacks. Amongst the many curious objects to be seen in
the pools left by the receding tide, arc queer
little
17G
fi>h
l)F.(
ADK
IN
BORNEO.
\vlio.>-e
(if
known
as
mouths rcsenible
tlieir
paiTots' beaks:
when
lit'tcd
(jiit
and as hard. When they blow oft' the air they do so with a little s(pieaking sound. Some of these fish grow to a foot and over
round as a
ball,
in length.
t(,i
be seen as miglit
ones
the
gets
commonest,
at the
same
is
time,
in the tropics
by catching a
One of
a little
more often
a
seen,
is
long-billed
is
kind resembling
it
humming-bird, which
the verandah,
so
tame that
metallic
builds
its
has a
head and yellow wings. These little birds are honey-eaters and we have often watched tliem while hovering about the great red
blue
green
flowery heads
of a
species
of chlorodendron
which
grows luxuriantly in our garden, wage big sparring matches with large papilio butterflies who desire to sip the sweets from the same blossoms. I need hardly
say
tliat
is
the
bird
with
liis
beak
Amongst those
commonest
which sit on the tops of trees beyond gun-shot, and utter the most discordant skwarks and screams. They have enormous
large horn-bills
bills,
out of
all
sometimes
yellow.
very
rosey
pink
and
Their plumage
black
pied
A\ith
Avliite.
The
l,)vaks are
lieatis
of these
MISCELLANEOUS.
birds with tho
caps,
stickingbills, to
177
\\
ar
the
h)ng
feathers
of the
Argus
pheasant tlirough the crowns of them. Once a year, usually at Chinese New Year, which
a moveable feast depending on the moon, but which always occurs early in our New Year, oftencst about
is
is
held
this
however does
in
the facts
of the
case
as
addition
monkies, coral, bricks, bread, needlework, geese, fowls, native arms and Natural History specimens are shown, as well as small quantities of general produce such as
coffee
latter usually
attracts very
marked praise
In fact
Added
make
a very pretty
table decorations
The
and coleuses, always command a foremost place, the The sho\\- of ferns also often being very handsome.
pot-plants
would
always
it
do
greater
credit
to
the
many from competing as they all by hand, so that the prize winners have to bo carried
recoup
their
outlay,
whilst
the
unsuccessful
amongst the marOur vegetables ket gardeners for the vegetable prizes. though not choice are numerous. I have seen as nmny as 36 kinds exhibited by one man, of ^\hich tomatoes^ cucumbers, brinjals, and Chinese radishes were perhaps
There
is
always keen
c(.inqietition
178
the best,
vard, four
A.s
(U-
li:i
ADi;
in
IJdltNKD.
b(Nins they
grow by
tlic
five
tli.sh.
The huge forest tint covers tlie country consists of some six hundred dilt'ci'cnt kimU of trees, \vhicli are
mostlv of great
often
heiglit.
their
two hundred feet above the ground, uhilc the enormous trunks s[)ring u[) cohuun-like some a hundred feet and m<n-c bcfu-c llic Hr-t branch s[)reads, itself forth. ]\rany (>r them ha\e great buttresses proceeding from the main trunk near the ground, making recesses
inanv
of
feet dee[).
These
value,
timber
more
their
or less
and vary
in
<[uality
from the
a great of wild
substance
among them
there
aiH'
sorts
the .Durian,
Langsat,
rambutan, and
Considerable
others,
A\hile
are not
uncommon on low
tlie
lands.
portions of
wood
is
foe>nd to
make
tro[)ical
t'<rest
is
somewhat
of
it
the
mark,
as,
except fn*
the
size
tlie
enormous
.'in
betwe(Mi
and
English -wood,
seen.
palm
trees
to Cijmprise the
princi[)al
[lart
of
\egetation being
rarely
most
is
tin;
Amongst
is
the
rattan which
is
itself
palm
trees
MISCELLANEOUS.
79
in
tl;e
The
highest,
even at mid-day,
MJieii the
sun
is
at its
cool,
gloomy and
silent:
at
monkies call, and tlie myriads of insects raise a pleasant and not unmusical cliorus. but beyond this and the
occasional call of a bird \ery
i'ew
There arc but few really dangerous animals to be anct with, although the rhinoceros, perhaps the most disagreable of them, is far from uncommon, besides which there is also a small kind of bear but I have
Jiever
animals,
immense span
t<)
muscular strengtli
the
ape
the
most
whose pi'etty soft grey coat and shiny black face and funny wrinkled foreheatls are the most attractive, their great black eyes always h.avc a pleading look in them
:
if
if
mueb
attention
not
bestowed
upon them.
Elephants are not infrcipiently heard of but they
.are
not
uncommon, the
fashioned;
It is
it
poor
little
legs
Of
many
liandsome
180
li;<
\liK
IN
linPvNI'.o.
^\vl\
as
Perhaps
the
tlie
nuist
of
leeches
swarm everywhere
object;
wriggling their
tij)s
tliin
of
leaves,
whether
If the
man
blood
much
person
little
trouble,
making
in
sores
whieli
in
some
hand,
eases,
if
do not
On
the other
tlie
lecclu\s
liavc
but
on
liim.
arc.
(jf
tlie
Hies can
localities.
which
falling stars:
is
generally
is
lujosed
and brought
green snake
the
int(^
is
way through
harmless
bushes,
or
in
amongst the
form arches
MlsCKI.LANKOUS.
181
and
as a luattor
ut"
a hamadryad
is
reported;
tlispo.sition to attack
man. On a recent occasion a huge python having swallowed a deer which was distinctly
its
observable in
body,
was captured
in
a dormant
Each
to such
an extent that
it
was on
long ago on
newly opened
estate.
An
elephant
plants
oi'
succulent
banana
the middle
and made demonstrations hoping tliereby to frigliten him away, but he refused to retreat and charged right at them: a hght tliereupon ensued, the men ])rodding him with their woodknives and spears whilst the elepliant chased them about. Finally, one man more valiant than the others, in the excitement of the encounter, sprang on to a great log and from thence on to the beast's back, from which point of vantage he succeeded in dividing one of the animars
The
coolies shouted
spinal vertebrae.
aiul leaves
Two
knew and
Avhich
mcyo kept in
182
captivity luv a
habits.
i)i:(
Aui:
in
uoijxko.
in
luiij,^
their
Althougli tliey
ca'i'C
were
in
halt"
ii-r<Mvn
they
were
not kept in a
or even cliained.
a coujile
of"
the cook-house, and they were so tame that they would take their masters' hand and A\alk about with him.
They
Avere
most
deliberate
in
all
their
movements,
The male
and
\\ay
roll
down
The}- liad a
\ory
human
when peering
at
an
when
the
view,
})lacing
their
spread
hands in a slow
man
to
what they liked was an old kerosine oil tin. and if there ]iapi)ened to be oni- 1> ing anywhere about, it A\as esteemed a great treasure and a most enviable have seen the I defence against a tropical shower. of these tins in a most ungallant male snatch one manner from his wife. In fact tlie podr little lady had generally rather a rough time of it. her husband not
better for this purpose
having been
At
<.>nc
time he gobbled
n[)
the food
MISCKI.LANEOUS.
SO fast that she
ISii'
was
(juitc
chained
greatlv
\ip.
tliis reas(ni tlic male was AVhcn she died however, her
widower
uiourned
her
loss,
took
to
sadly
intemperate habits
snccumbed
to the
intemperance.
transparent
ghost
butterfly
which
slowlv Haps about in gloomy places, and the richly coloured black and yellow oru'itJioptirti. a span's
breadth acros< the wings, to the tiny blues with their delicate markings Avhicli flicker over every bank of
flowers.
The moths
Avhich
fly
into
the
houses
at
exceed even those of the butterflies. Orchids abound, though they are not so easily
obtainable nor so often seen in blossom as seems to besupposed, and unless a patch of jungle is
felled,
generally
being
whether
for
timber
t<^
purposes
get.
or
for
planting,
difficult
The greater
insignificant,
but Ave have some that would delight the hearts of orchid collectors at home, the most beautiful being thej>li<ihvnoi>S(S
(f.iii'iha/i.-'. and two other kinds whosenames I do not know Iuxac been acquired up the rivers their flowers are very much alikein Sandakan Bay in character but their leaves and bulbs quite different
:
dry sandy
184'
A OKCADE IN I'.ORNEO.
Orchid collecting
those
at
is
distance
may
arc not
the
as
many
many
is
of
it
provoking, after
a
sort
carefully
pampering
it
it
for
some months
to
looks as though
blossoms, to find
ought
luuc
fine large
copical dimensions.
Xor
is
tliis
in
the
following
visited
is
an instance.
us
us saying
directions
it
where
After
little
exploring
at the
was
toj>
to,
extreme
so.
it fell
upon
feet
150
smashing
it
entirely.
itself,
The orchid
got close to
it
a grammatopliylluni. A\hen
Avas
we
a
Ave
it
a\
found
as
large
enough
to
fill
knocked all to fragments hoAvsome of these several mens' loads Ave carried oft' and placed in a gully at the back of the house in the hope that they Avould strike, but that night there Avas very heavy rain and next morning not a vestige of it remained, so there Avas an end of that orchid and all the expense connected Avith it. and all \\c had to do Avas to build another bridije.
couple of carts,
ever
by the
fall,
but
Misci;i.j..\M;(rs.
185
The
it
is
wcathci-
is
am
told
;
unluckily
sun
is
shining, the
M'liitc
litth^
picture.
On
the phosphorescence
white, witli
fiery
lights
boat breaks
up the sea into ripplcts. Beneath the tiny wavelets bloom perfect sea-gardens with banks of blue, green, yellon' and red and other colours ruled by the predominating shade of the masses of coral, whilst among
tliem Hit fish of brilliant hues, turquoise blue to vivid
scarlet.
Tlie
most
terrible scourge
we have
is
in
Borneo
A\ith
is
the crocodile.
<.'ountries
us
found
far out to
xwij species
Other kinds on
abounding in the shallow lagoons at the back of the main rivers. The sea is so full (>f sharks that their fins salted and sun-dried i'orm a main article of trade in some places. There is a remarkable absence of unpleasant
natural phonomena in North Borneo, volcanos and earthquakes are quite unknown on the East Coast, and
18()
DKCAIU. IV
u-.
i>t'
I'.oKNi:**.
<\jilii.nns
J'.'UikI
novcr reucli
the eastward
lie
vijlcanic
belt
jiasscs
Miiles-,
iii
to
us sonic liuutlred.s of
liu
may
record here
tliat
the
Krakatoa eruption
no
less
August
I88'i
was
disliuetly lieard at
it
Sandakau nntwithtlian
lies
1.200
so
lS02A\e
again heard heavy niutiied explosions which were at (-nee ])ronounced by some persons to be caused by an
t;u[tti(jn.
This pro\ed
to
be true
(la\
at
As far as
(V
is
known
<
few
minerals
n'
metals in
places
liornec*.
tliree
especially
W.
district,
while
rhe existence
Ioml;-
of gold
tlie
in
the
known:
!!0
doubt refers to
plenty of \eiy
nsang:
produces
fini'
gold which
>oft like
wax: the
most remarkable tor thi> is Talassam. within (iiong. but the ri\er disembogues in the North Sea l)etw ecu
Tand^isaii
It
inider-
taken at
district
my
husband"to
in
recpiest.
in
referred
the
above extract,
the
tion
summary
clo-.e.
Had he
lived,
no doubt
value
ot
Years
the real
MlSGEl-LANKdlN.
Slavery though not absolutely prohibitecl by
is
187
la\\'
largely
:
restricted
;i
natural
death
since
1883
all
have been
that there
It
free.
W. on
understand
was any other condition than that of slavery. must not be supposed that shnery in these parts
ol"
]>:iitnok
li'iMu.
anything
after ihe
in hand, to
--tMud
over gangs of
I'Uig lash,
men and
bliKul
not better
(Inthcd
and htafed through life iiiiirh in the same lazy manner, and if hard work was (Iciuandt'd of them they thought themselves very illthan
tlieir
masters
ii-rd, in fact
r<fi{<oit
(/'rtn-
of
ruintnrt.
(jn
mav
diaiN'
be
of
gathercxl
1
from
the
following entry
'
in
Ws
of
ith
Octobtir
1878.
IJought
Juan
Mohamed Ascalee for !i|i90. ttdd liim he was a free man which he seemed tc> regard tV<m the heritage
(if
woe
it.
jtoint
of
view
ami was
\ery
i\-\\
melancholy
to hini
tears.
al)'>ut
Mohamed
addressed a
words
into
burst
'
was
difiicult
(liiiuity
of freedom.
after
met
with
a'^ain as a slave,
make then comprehend the One man who W. freed, on being some months later, was discovered (hi encpiirv it turned out that he had
to
.\
18K
])i;i
AitK
IN
r.oi{\Ku.
wanted to >ii young native lady. another occasion a man came to W. for advice about a slave; she would not sew. she refused to cook, she would do nothing but sit in the verandah and chew
sold lumsclt' tnr a cuiicoitina \\ilh Avliidi he
capture
the ati'ections
<jt"
<
sirrili.
master to cut
down her
rations,
was no use, she wont and hel[>ed herself wlien W. then suggested he had the food was prepared.
but
tliis
better
sell
the
w.jmau.
0)ie
but
here
again
occurred
difficulty, tor
no
licr
bad a reputatinu
tliat
was then
the nui-ur
Jicr
again.
As a
last
little
climax.
half
;\u
down
He
said
that
would ne\er do
instead.
as
she w.is
him
('
II
VT
\l
XIV.
trees.-
.-^entices.
hiboiir.
Pliuitiiifr.
I'l'lling.
L;iii<l tret^
scU'iHiiii,'
. Scliips and
liniiiir.
ftdlinjr.
('h:ios.
Biiildiuu:.
Holciiii,'
CoftVi-.
"X "^
70RK
ill
coiinecticiii
\\\\\\
<>t
the
iijiniiiiLi'
an
Y
in
estate
ov
plantation
any kind
in
is
very
intirestinii'.
tiniis
tiiicst
tlio
To
iro[)ic.s.
stands
the the
primeval
size
liini,
n<:'tiiin'
and
cireuniferenee of the
tree.-
which seem
to defy
the
ho[)e
and
desire
such
tract
tlistricts
\\'cll
nigli impossible.
him
lii<
lu'
si/e
feet
oi'
arm
diameter of
and
[)erliaj)s
ami colunni-like to a height of 200 feet overhead, whilst the ground at his feet is a tangle of roots. The pr(>-[)ect in trutli is not encouraging, and iiuk'ed many Chinamen, wln^ ha\e at one time or another been attracted to Borneo on the promise of cheap fertile land, have after a single walk in the silent and gloomy forest depths fled back to China straightway, while even
190
I'jii^'lisliiiifii
11. ii
lti;t
\I>K
IN
lUilJNKo.
ii>.'(I
lliiii:-
t')
ir,
t'rc([ucnlly
look upon
tin-
task of iiuTcly
f(
of a
L;-i;mt
end wrd
strain
tli"
f<.)r
>int('r-liuinau
iiiacliiucs
jtowcrs.
oilier
and
such such
have
(l('\i-:e(l
and
appliances for
trci's.
A\
more
foiii-
suih!
and speedy
found
to
felling of
hereas
L^'an^"
dollar-;
I'ln
hi'
Mala\'
irarts
foreman
it
undertake fonacre,
to
la\
low.
beinu^
sujipose.
not
for
much
IcHino-
would
hold
"t'
deniantl
(du-cthei'
and
otir
virgin
forests
often
twenty of
<ucji
t^
'he
We
to
selei't
will su[)p
)-(!
tliat
it
is
is
to
Naturally the
first thinif is
In Xortli l)oriiei)
reipiir.'d
tlii< is not,
\oi'\'
<lifticiilt
the
d scriiitiou
of ground
iuLi'
i'xisfinn'
almost
le\c|
111"
c\ er\\\ here,
a--
hci^'
luuhdat
hillocks
as nc'ar sea
to
in
si'lcct
I
p'is-ihle.
I'll
taken
laiil
the
hanks
iiavigal)lc ii\er
wliil-l
is
Older
to
ensure
tn
elieap
lfau>|)"rt.
in
iic^t
important
point
he
kep'
mind
not
to
he
at
anv
i;ieat
distaiiec
sni)plies^
tlio
np<.>n
A\'hi<'h
the
priee
of rice and
a
pro\isions for
coolies
urcatlv
dep(>nds.
may make
a
it
just
the
tc)
difierenc'
<'onie.
i)etweeii
prolii
\
and
lo>s
in
the da\s
<ii\'eii
ot'
tho-e ad
Mil
aiitaL;e-~.
description
<tart
A\'(jrk
can
he coinhine.l. the
lan
without misgivings.
at
Arri\('d
this ioint.
it is
of men on dav wages, and the exact spot for the c<)m-
sf>ttle<l
COFFEE PI.AMIVO.
ill
191
liastily
the forest
is inatle.
iiii
<i
scri-s
mat
them.
day.
men can
tlius
easily be
made
in
A rough
ti)
shelter
having
his
men
ii.to
the forest
"'
"
rentices
thus cutting up
tlie
n chess board of
little
known
thinii-
h)cally as "pajuks.""
The blocks
is
marked
the
out, the.
next
to
make
contracts
tVn-
fellinrj
of these
to the
town
of
tlie forest
each, a
and usually ranging from $26 to 32 "' contractor taking two to four such '"'pajuks
The
cleverest fellcis
strips
feet
of
low
in
forest
standing
some
thirty
to
or
forty
bri'ad
two or three
dii'ecti<jns
act as
wind
i5creens.
tlius far,
the planter
is
unless ho
necessary young
in.
tuuil
fields.
192
ii;(aij:
in
i'.oknko.
cf
all
The forest felling gangs at once get to work first armed only witli their long wood knives known
;
as "parangs."'
some
all
this
wh<.ile
to-
two
their
feet or
so in (Hameter
now
own
at,
billiongs,""
look
hatclict sha[)eil.
])i(>c('
bMund
witli
rattan to a long
for
thin pliable
of
\\-o(uI
made
of a root
all
handk'^.
but
the
hardest
hard woods.
By
this
in
diameter,
many
all
of
them ha\ing
sti-etchin<4'
tlu'
on
sides
anil
up
to a height
often
>f
ground:
they
al)ove
erect
these
buttresses
take
stand,
tlie
Seen thus,
V ith
the
aiul their
men seem
immster
utterly
pigmies as compared
are
great
they
about
to
attack
weapons
work of
"billiongs""
and a sound
fly
wood
of the
right
and
with
those shar[)
their
little
axes
are
already
beginning
giant
eat
w,\\
into the
heart
astonishing rapidity.
COFFKK
After
ail
ri,ANllN(;.
IJKi
hour's work, or
it
may
be more, according
of the wood, a
;
and
tlic (juality
sound
is
the
fellers
as a note of
end
is
not far
oft".
las
comrade
ear
is
cniitinues
tap[ing.
pausing
louder
accustomed
([uickly
defects.
tlie fibres
At
last
craekling snuud
heard,
throwing aside his axe the wdixI man utters a wild veil of warning, hastily clambers down from liis
platform and escapes to a place of safety
agility
a\
ifh all
the
of a nimble squirrel.
tree top
The
branches
shiver,
crest
craekling
so\ui(ls
augment, the
a\
mightv
and
flicn
ifh
an
terrific
crash
tails to
the ground
making
sliake amidst
accnmpli'-hetl.
re([uire
a
unlike
an
who wunM
fankard of ale
a spell ot
scpiat
on their heels
on
a prostrate log.
and
y<>\\
and decide
M'hicli
and then
in
fell
the
all
rest
bring them
it
dowu
aim
will, as
were, take
IDl.
iK<
\i)i:
i\
K<>|{\1'.<>.
-with
all,
one troo at
aii'tthor
and tuvn
it
n\
it
i\fr
i'(h.its
niul
itli
their axe.
The
is
now one
tn^e.s
of the
hw^o
lying
one
over another in
all
directions,
while an impenetrable
it is
only possible
"iic
pro-;ti-ate
get about at
all
1)\-
[jassing
whii-li
it
ffoui
needs
\".
nin)l)le
and
To
--haos.
n.)\i(('.
introduced
n()\v
is
to >\icji to
a scene ot
exnUc an orderly
<>i
upon the
(>tfect
is
site
ha\oc and
to
tin-
almost appalliim'.
^:-et
seeming
all
bar
<>f
,,i
an inii>os-ibility even
ground
clearcnl
In the ca-e
opening
coffee i">late.
it
is
usual
to wait until
a spell
made
that
thetn
tire
Avill
easily
without
ai'fitii-Ial
burning
m'st
away
a
-lowly.
It
is
impressive
fire
sight
in
to
see
large acreage
l)elng
devouretl bv
this
manner,
llnormous tongues
te(>t
of flame ha^)
u[i
thirty
and
forty
in
the
air. Aast
d.irkiii
the
sky.
while
wood
is
(piite
speak of an area, as largo as that occupied 1 awful. by St. .lames" I'ark. one sea of Haines. Owing to the
Jiumiditv
uuflef
the
forest
shade
these
fires
never
coi'ii'.i-:
I'LAN riNu.
1*).')
oxtoiul
into
flic
>urioun(lIng
distiict
as
niiglit
he
anticipated.
becomes neccsmove roomy and comt'ortablc ([uartevs tor the staft", from Manager t<t coolies, and house building- is taken in hand. The
Tlic
time
lias
now
airived w lien
(>rectii)n
it
of
selection
luo.st
<>t'
sui(al)le
sites
tor
the
hilly
new
habitation.?
is
im[)Mrt;uu.
and rising or
important
[)oint
flat,
is
made on the
becomes damp
sickness.
if
.and unlu'althy
and
is
the cause of
much
is
Clearing
.soon finished.
it
Wit
A\('ather
becomes
connected with
will
l.n-i!i>
b.'
uu;l('rsto,):l
still
Jea\es
j)ilcd
of
loi^s
100 fed
length and
more, lying
up m the gi'ound. while the stumps, many of them huge >ize. still remain standing all oxer tin; estate
(
[)l<_>ughing
is
of
out of the
([uesti<Ki)
much with
is
done by a good
many
nine
cou[)les
Whenever
wooden peg
be
is
planted.
to
be the best
I!)()
|)K<
ADF.
1\
ni)l{\i;(>.
The
i^ivcn to
lining
iini-slu'd.
tliii"
coiitrMC'ts
arc
tlieu
usually
Chinese to
so
many
the
All
forest.
now ready
a
is
usually
[)rocoeded
with when
I'ain
period
has
1
iiiadi'
mode
plants
(,f
is
healthy
be-t
us can
tin-
advantages
possible.
Whether
a
}'ou
is
parang or
Tlie estate
Ime or
shade them moic or less, or stumped or not. whetliei- yo\i u>^(^ the hands foi- pluntiuL:'. an- all
to the idea
of'
the ]tlanter.
the t'armer
now
planti'd
uji. tlie
planter.
bk(,.'
at
at the
its
is
my
experience^ to
may
be.
and vields
twentieth mouth.
l^iberian
A\-ith its larL,^e
always a
fine
handsome
its
jjlant
big jas>mine
a
spi'll
like
i-ainy
fl<j\\ers
and
it
exipii'^ite
pcitiune.
a
1bi-~h
after
of
weather
thro\\-s
ii
out
of pure
\\hite
>till
moic
attiacti\e.
at
any stated
year round,
come out
is
all
the
fa\ourable.
the conse(;uencc
that on the
stages
same
tiny
slirub.
[lea
all
iVoin
like
to
the
ripe-
scarlet berrv
are to be seen.
il
A I'T K
1{
X V
CONCI.USIOX.
Hopori and iiiins. .MiHfrMl>. I'niiiU f;itt;ni. Tlir .il th.- country's Conipari.^nn with .lava and ilic I'liilippinep. chief mainstay.
1
'^T^HE cud
that
W. Imd
in
view
from the
first
beginning of all things, and from -which he has J_ never for a moment waxered was to get the country into such a peaceful and (jrdcrly state that capitalists
should be attracted to develop its resources, as it Avas not the intention of the Association first, or of the
i>.
was
at first
hoped
tliat
and
.>r
To
the
this end.
en"-aged to
country
st(jry
of his
and untimely end are related fully He went very tlioroughly over a good deal elsewhere.-* of the country and left but little doubt but that, it there Avero any metals to speak of, they would reijuirc much closer examination to bring to light, than he was
travels, researches
(inie
luis
to
confirm.
I']xplor:ition> iiml Ailvcntnr>'> uii tin- Kipiator.
North
i^>riii'ii.
MKS
nil AKi:
i\
r.iiKM;<.
Tins
beiiiu'
of
its
s<jil.
<>t'
the enortlu'
some
finest
worhl and
tlie
It was quite certain tliat these, especially in tlie Sandakan district A\ere unquestionable, and thtit tiiese atlvantages would attract attention evident -scry
seemed
Britain.
to
\V-
cmly
natuial.
that
not
in
fact
Great
Axliich
had
hitherto
possessed
S(^il.
any
A\(>uld
resources of a countrv
\I('dA\ith
i)oints.
tlie
Philippines
at
and Java
in
all
their
best
lacking
the
ot
it
same
time
good many
of
the
disadvantages
lie
and
hoped that
would not
its
main producers of tdpieal commodities fur the wc^ild. supporting a large and ever increasing population of its own, its one enormous stretch of forest gradually
receding and giving place to
all kinds, while
t(.\\
fields
their
own
So
a -cord at the
far.
but
it
dties
most suitable centres. these expectations have not been fulfilled, not remain \\\\h me to explain the reason
and cause of this delay; suthce it to say. that the 'J'he soil and natural advantages are not at fault. vast agricultural resources remain intact, virtually of hundreds the notwithstanding undeveloped.
thousands of acres of land adapted for sugar, Manila-hemj'. cocoannts and india rubber, and
other tro[ical
coffee.
many
products
known
CONCLUSION.
199
must necessarily
with the export of produce), vast acreages centre on good shipping harbours, so that exports can be shipped
off at the lowest possible expense.
far
off,
demand
-END-
in
January 1893.
INDEX.
A
Adventure at Silam, loS. Agar-agar, 175. Alexandra
Falls, 80,
of,
Blut visited, 78. Boar, wild, 50, 70, 168. Boats, native, 54.
fetish, 83.
Bock, C. quoted,
7.
Borneo
il.
area &c.,
i.
2.
B
IJahalla, battle
of,
ai svy.
of, 8.
described, 64.
Bajow
tribe.
99
ct
Balignini, 4, 41.
origin, 103. raid, 104.
Burning
declare war, 107, 113. liamboos, 174. ]5ank notes, Borneo, 173. fraud upon, 173.
15arongs, i ISBattle of Bahalla, 36. Baturong caves, 62.
c
Capture of Tuncu, 41. Caves, birds nest, 45,
SJq., 66.
55
^.'
Batu
Tummungong
60.
caves,
tradition, 65.
Beche de Mer,
Beebits, igi.
3.
Betel nut chewing, 125, 133. Bilet, described, 66. Birds, 176. Birds' nest caves, 45, 49 ri
,sv</.,
66.
INI) E \
Coote, admiral, 48. Cotton, native, 85. Court of Justice, established, 17-
For
13, 30, 35.
Cowie, Mr.,
Crocodiles, 171.
Customs
of capture. 70. established, 15. early difiiculties, 16. Customs, native, 82.
mode
Fire, at old
Sandakan.
36.
Fire making, 98. Fishing, 59. Fish spears, 103. Forest, character
of,
178.
D
Walton on Ijorneo Dancing, 127. Darvel Bay, 42.
1
G
Galung tucyang, 115. Games, 85, 87, 88. Game, 68.
trapping, 74, 79.
described, 49.
Dent, Sir A., 11. Depopulation of N. Borneo, 9. Dermatuan, Panglimah, 83. Devil appears, 19.
Divers, pearl, 119.
Gardens
at
Labuan.
145.
of, 7?.
Gongs,
85.
126.
115,
CyiMiDiialophyllnm. 55, 1S4. Grassy Point, 58. Gypsies, Sea, see Bajow.
Dutch, taxation,
4.
Education, no. Edwardes, Capt. R. N., 41. EiTcna, H.M.S. visit of, 42. Elephants, 68, 179, 181. Elopura, founded, 38.
Hatton, F.
H
Hair, dessing, 130.
//,;;/, H.rsI.S., 12.
Mr.
186, 197.
7, 9,
Head
43.
Embroidery,
132.
J)
!;
111
M
Ikan buntal,
176.
1
JNLadai
13,
Caves, 61.
Illaniins, 4, 41,
Main Main
Malays, 120
Malubuk
river, 80.
K
Kalingtangan, 126.
Karamoork
Karangans,
river, 86.
79.
Kcema,
Kc-trcl,
Market, establishing a, 85. Marquis del Duero, Spanish Man-of-war, threatens Sandakan, 29. Marriage, 131. Medicine, Chinese, 171. Melapi, 44, described, 65.
Minerals, scarcity
of,
60.
H.M.S., arrival of, 41. Kidnapping, 4, 104. Kinabalu IVIt. height. 2. Kinabalu Lake, 26.
197.
3.
Kinabatangan
t-^d,
River,
visit-
Mungalis
tree, 78.
Music, 126.
plant-
N
Nacoda
!\Ieyer.
difliculties
Kudat, 146.
New
Labuan,
145.
o
ascent, 26.
Omaddal,
103.
Lantecns, 84, 92. Laut, Pangeran, 54. 107. Leeches, 180. Linsrcabo,. seed pearls, 25.
Orang gimbcr,
laut, 116.
116.
145.
Orang
IV
INI) K X
Q
73.
Quarmotc
13.
R
Rafts, 84, 92.
I'ajiiks, 191.
Tangcran
I'aiii^cran
Samah's
opposi-
tion, 43.
Romanow,
tribe, 89.
:8.
divers, 1 19. seed, 24. fishing, 25, 1 19. Penungah, station formed, 47, described, 91.
Sabine,
Steam Launch,
et
50,
.-f</.
104, 108.
1S5.
29.
Sandakan new
harbour, 148. Fort Prycr, 150. fish market, 151. places of worship, 151. population, 152. revenue, 152.
laws, 152.
police, 153. health, 154.
heroism, 105.
climate, 155.
19.
houses, 156.
servants, 157.
Prawns,
59.
tradesmen, 162.
pic-nics, 1O5.
I)
E X
Cood, 54.
Tanna
Sea
fij^hts,
Tobacco, native,
Torture, 82.
81.
descrip-
Kinabatanngan,
44.
Trepang,
60.
tribe, 80, 88, 89.
of,
Tunbunwah,
41.
80.
Spears, fish. 103. Sport, pig hunt, 50. various, 68, 79. Sulu, war in, 13; \\2,et
sfi/.
warlike
traits, 113.
1
Vigilant,
H.M.S., 48.
14.
war
w
Watcridh., cruise
of, 63.
language,
18.
ponies, 119.
Wild animals,
169.
Summungup
Sundyaks,
custom, 82.
Witti, quoted. 8.
8g.
Wounds, rapid
healing, 3:
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