On The Water page 38

e positioned our boat for another drift through the area between
two massive football-shaped islands we referred to as The Slot.
The wind was ripping and our noses were running, but the pike
were still eating our spinnerbaits so we stuck it out for at least
another drift, or three. Out of the stormy sky, my partner asked, You dont use
a baitcaster, do you?
No, I answered. I explained to him that I had always considered getting one.
I do a lot of ipping of weightless soft-plastic baits into structure and heavy
cover, a technique that typically calls for a baitcasting-style ipping setup, but I
do so with spinning gear. I rarely use ipping jigs, but thats only because they
are generally too heavy for my spinning gear. My skill set as a bass sherman
would match well with and probably benet from picking up a baitcasting outt.
However, back in 1988 I was involved in a serious construction accident in
which my left wrist was seriously injured. I survived and recovered from the
accident enough to play the guitar, sh, and perform the basic functions of ev-
eryday life, but the injury left me unable to oppose the thumb of my left hand.
In addition I have lost much of the feeling and intrinsic dexterity in that hand.
As I result, I have been discouraged from using baitcasting reels because they
are operated with the left hand and cranked with the right hand. I acknowledged
to my shing partner that due to the lack of dexterity of my gimpy left wing, a
baitcaster just would not work for me.
Use a lefty baitcaster, my friend suggested. For some reason, I hadnt con-
sidered that option, but by the time the winter sportsman shows arrived, I was
looking for a ipping rod to pair with a Shimano Curado 201E7 left-handed
baitcaster that just happened to be presented to me as a 47
th
birthday present.
Even though the lefty reel solved my dexterity issue, I still had numerous
bumps and bruisesor should I say backlashes and birds neststo overcome in
101
BY ALFONSO K. AJELLO
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November/December 2012 page 39
LOW-PROFILE
BAITCASTING REELS
There are hundreds of lowprole baitcasting reels on the There are hundreds of low-prole baitcasting reels on the
market, each with their own features and benets. When
looking into buying a baitcaster, youll want to consider the
casting controls, weight and gear ratio.
my rst season learning the intricacies
of the low-prole baitcaster.
Benets of the Baitcaster
The baitcaster is, in my opinion, an
important tool for the bass sherman to
have in his arsenal. They afford better
line control than spinning reels, allow-
ing for more accurate casts. They allow
you to slow down the lure so it softly
falls into the water without spooking
nearby sh, important when ipping
baits into cover. Baitcasters also allow
you to maintain contact with the lure,
even when the reel is in freespool, so
you can detect strikes as you are letting
out line. And when it comes to crank-
ing power, whether needed for shing
heavy spinnerbaits and crankbaits or for
knob, the spool, and most importantly,
the braking system.
Most baitcasting reels use some sort
of braking system to assist the angler in
combating backlash or spool overrun
during the cast. The braking system can
be the most intimidating aspect of your
new reel, but familiarizing yourself with
it will be helpful as you practice, learn
and progress.
Most baitcasters have either a mag-
netized system or a centrifugal system.
On most reels, the braking system can be
adjusted externally by way of a simple
dial that controls its inuence over the
forward momentum of the spool. Some
centrifugal braking systems do require
that the palm side of the reel be opened to
expose an adjustable system of weights
that can be switched on and off to help
control the forward momentum of the
spool. These can appear quite compli-
cated, but I can tell you from experience
that they are easy to use. The centrifugal
braking system on my Shimano Curado
201E7 is nothing more than a star-shaped
series of spokes that spins alongside the
spool. On each of the six spokes is a
plastic weight that can be turned on or
off with your ngernail to increase or
decrease the braking applied to the spool.
Passive and Active
Braking
When casting a baitcaster, there are
two forms of braking being applied
Okuma
Helios
Daiwa Z-Series
Z200H
Abu Garcia
Revo
Premier
Shimano
Curado G 200
Quantum EXO
EX200SPT
hauling heavy sh out of cover, bait-
casters beat spinning reels hands down.
Finally, baitcasters are better equipped
to cast heavier line than spinning reels
of the same size.
Getting to Know Your
Baitcaster
g
Low-profile baitcasters are a totally
different animal than a spinning reel or
even a saltwater conventional reel, as the
latter two reels can be used right out of
the box. Low-prole baitcasters require
a little tweaking to get them ready to cast
Before shing a new reel, I spend time
reading the manual to learn where all the
features lie. I investigate everything
the clutch, the drag, the spool tension
Bai Bai B tca ttcaste sters rs al allow low yo you t u to m o main aaaintai tain c n ccont ont ontact act ac
with the lur l e, eveen w n when hen th the r e reel eel is is in in
freespool, so you cann de d tect stri ikes k as yoou u
are re ar are re le letting out line. - photo by Tim Allard
Baitcasters are powerful reels ideal for
shing heavy cover. - photo by Tim Allard
On The Water page 40
to the spool. The casting control set-
tings create the passive braking, which
happens automatically during the cast.
Active braking is the pressure an angler
applies to the spinning spool with his
thumb during the cast. Feathering the
spool at just the right times will prevent
the dreaded birds nest from forming in
the spool.
It doesnt matter how sophisticated
your reels braking system is, some ac-
tive braking will be necessary when you
cast. In order to have the best results,
active and passive braking will need to
work together. Think of your casting
control knob as a helping hand to
your active braking, not as your sole
protection against backlash and spool
overrun.
Backyard Casting
Practice
yy
Once you have taken the reel out of the
box, the best thing to do is to practice in
your backyard or in an open eldnot
on the water. The fastest way to get
comfortable with your baitcaster is
to focus on the reel and how it works
without any distractionslike sh. For
backyard casting, I prefer to use old,
beat-up lures, similar to what Ill be
using on the water.
The cast can be broken down into
three parts. The rst part of the cast is
the launch of the bait from the rod tip.
This is when the angler removes his
thumb from the spool, allowing the bait
to take line and start the spool spinning.
As the bait travels through the air, wind
resistance and gravity begin to slow it
down. This is the middle part of the cast.
The last part of the cast is when the bait
begins to descend and eventually touch
down on the water.
To understand the anglers role in
each part of the cast, you must rst
understand how the cast works. Un-
like a spinning reel where the bait is
pulling line off the spool throughout
the cast, a baitcaster, once the spool
is set in motion, feeds line to the bait
as it travels through the air. As wind
resistance, gravity or the water slows
down the bait, the spool will continue
to feed line at roughly the same pace as
it did at the beginning of the cast. If the
angler doesnt slow the spool as the lure
is slowing, the result is the overrun of
line known as a backlash.
The key to successful casting is the
ability to manage these momentum
changes using the adjustable compo-
nents built into the baitcasting reel, as
well as your own instincts and timing.
The rst part of the cast is when the
spool control knob is most important.
If your spool control is too loose, you
will backlash early in the cast. Before
you do anything else, tighten down your
spool control knob all the way by turn-
ing it toward you. Do not worry about
your braking system at this point. Now,
hold your lure at just about eye level.
BAITCASTER ANATOMY
Low-prole reels have a palm side and a handle side. Op-
posite of spinning reels, right-handed baitcasters have the
handle on the right side, and left-handed baitcasters have
the handle on the left side.
The palm side of the reel is designed to t the contour of
the hand. This comfort in hand is the primary advan-
tage of a low-prole baitcaster over a round baitcaster.
If your reel has a braking system, it will be located on
the palm side of the reel.
The handle side of the reel contains the handle and
casting control knob. Beside the handle, you will nd
the star drag.
In the center of the reel is the spool, and just behind
the spool is the clutch bar, which can be depressed by
the thumb to disengage the spool and let out line so you
can cast. In front of the spool is the levelwind that
guides line onto the spool evenly as you retrieve.
casting
control
knob
star
drag
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November/December 2012 page 41
Depress the clutch bar, and if your spool
control is tightened to the maximum,
your bait should dangle for a moment
before beginning a slow descent to the
ground. No matter how slowly the bait
falls, the spool will backlash when the
downward momentum of the bait has
stopped, so try to thumb the spool just
before the lure reaches the ground. This
is active braking. Try to thumb the spool
at the exact moment the downward
momentum of the lure stops.
Your next step is to back off the ten-
sion on the spool control knob until
the bait falls freely to the ground, but
at a rate such that you can control the
backlash with minimal active braking.
If you have set the casting control knob
too loose, it will be difcult to keep the
reel from backlashing. If your spool is
set too tight, you will not be able to
cast for any distance, so it is important
to nd a middle ground.
After setting the casting control knob,
you can adjust the braking system. Start
by putting it on the maximum setting
because this will help you develop an
understanding of how the braking sys-
tem affects the cast.
The braking system helps control
the spools rotation when your lure is
traveling through the air at top speed.
Braking should allow your bait to travel
through the air naturally while not al-
lowing the speed of the spool to pay out
more line than the lure is taking.
Set up a target in your yard, such
as a bucket, about 10 to 15 feet away.
Your rst casts should be gentle ips,
using a pendulum motion and a simple
drop of the line. Remember that your
braking system is set to the maximum.
If you are having difculty reaching
your target, it is because your braking
system is set too high and impeding
the rotation of the spool, slowing the
forward momentum of the lure during
the second part of your cast. If you are
unable to reach your target, you might
be tempted to add more force to the cast,
which can create tremendous forward
momentum in the early part of your
cast that your braking system ghts
against in the second part of your cast,
causing a backlash.
Now, back down the braking, one
increment at a time, to the point at
which the lure travels naturally forward
through the air without being impeded
too much by the braking system. The
objective is to nd a point in which you
can comfortably cast your lure decent
distances with little effort. Ideally, the
braking should be subtle; it should feel
like the braking system is not involved,
even though it is doing its job. If the
braking is set correctly, backlash will
not occur during the part of the cast
when your lure is traveling forward or
upward.
If you are having trouble with back-
lash after your lure lands, it is because
DIAGNOSE YOUR
BACKLASH
How and when the backlash occurs will tell you exactly what you are doing
wrong. If it is happening early in the cast, the lure is moving too fast, and
you need more tension on your spool control knob. If it is happening in the
middle of the cast while the bait is traveling forward and upward, you might
have to adjust the magnetic or centrifugal braking. If backlash is occurring
late or just before the bait touches down, you are probably neglecting to
thumb the spool in time.
C&C MARINE, INC.
75 BALLOU BLVD. BRISTOL, RI 02809
Cont act Charl es Tasso, Di r. Market i ng/Sal es
OFFI CE: 888- 802- 2132 CELL: 401- 524- 3799
WWW.FISHONANORTHCOAST.COM
Quality Built Boats 18- 28 in the New England Tradition
NorthCoast
By C & C Marine, Inc.
23 Center
Console
21 21 21 21 1 Har Har Har Har H d T d T d T d Top op op op 21 Hard Top
19 19 Cen Cen e ter ter t 19 Center
Con on C sol solleee Console
20 20 20 20 Cen Cen Cen C ter ter Co Conso nsole le 20 Center Console
28 Express
26 Center
Console
21 Express 23 23 23 23 Har Har Har Hard T d T dd T d Top op op op 23 Hard Top NEW
MODEL
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Manufacturers
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2009 26 Center Console
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Sp
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On The Water page 42
you are thumbing the spool too late
during the third part of your cast. Con-
centrate on the trajectory of the lure.
There is a moment when the lure seems
to oat or stall at the highest point of its
journey. At this point, feather the spool
with your thumb to slow the spool as it
falls toward the water.
When your lure hits the water, it is
being stopped short. This interruption
in momentum must also be accounted
for with active brakingthe spool
should be eased to a stop as the bait
hits the water. If you brake too fast, you
will lose distance, but if you brake too
late you will backlash. Remember, the
forward momentum of the lure and the
forward momentum of the spool must be
synchronized in order to avoid backlash.
With baitcasters, the sweet spot is a
moving target that will require adjust-
ment in accordance with the weight of
the bait you are using and the conditions
you are facing. Each time you change
the weight of your bait, start with de-
termining a comfortable fall rate with
your spool control knob and then add
or remove braking to nd the sweet spot
when you cast. Strong winds will also
affect your casting and may require you
to adjust your baitcasters settings.
Keep in mind that if you are used to
casting with a spinning reel, as I was, the
mechanics of casting with a baitcaster
are quite different. With baitcasting, you
are swinging the rod with a gentle turn of
the wrist, as opposed to the sharp icks
of the wrist you are used to with spinning
gear, which will cause problems with a
baitcasting setup.
Battling the Birds Nest
The easiest way to prevent tangles is to
keep an eye on the spool. Look for any
looping or irregularities in the line on
the spool and correct them immediately.
Make sure the line is always wound
neatly and tightly. The line should be
lying at and not collecting loosely on
the outside edges or middle of the spool,
and there should not be any humps or
bumps.
When a backlash does occur, do not
panic, and do not allow frustration to
get the better of you. Immobilize the
spool with your thumb and pull the line
forward. In most cases, the backlash will
be untangled as you pull out the line.
If a tangle has occurred, the spool will be
locked in place and your reel will actually
resemble a birds nest. One of the biggest
misconceptions is that the line is knotted,
and once it is knotted it needs to be cut off
the reel. Take solace in the fact that it is
highly unlikely that a true knot has formed
in your backlash.
Keep your thumb on the spool and
slowly release line, bringing it forward un-
til it stops and you have reached the tangle.
Look at the spool and nd the source of the
tangle, but resist the urge to start picking at
it with your ngernails or teeth.
Apply heavy pressure with your thumb
on the source of the tangle. Reel in a half
to full turn against the pressure of your
thumb. By doing this, you are moving
the spool while keeping the tangle in
one place, loosening it up. After doing
this once, try releasing line. You may be
able to clear the tangle completely, but
you may only get a foot or two before
the tangle reoccurs. Repeat the process
until you reach the next tangle, and keep
repeating until you free the tangles and
all remaining backlash. This may work
after one try, or you may have to do this
numerous times before you eliminate
the birds nest.
to a likely area.
Once you determine your budget and
style of shing, go to your favorite bait
and tackle store and ask to see some
reels. In this day and age we can order
any reel we want online. However, I
feel that it is important to hold the reel
in your hands in order to feel how it
ts in your palm. In addition, you will
want to see if you are comfortable with
the orientation of the reel components,
such as the clutch, spool, and drag, and
you will want to see the braking system
in person and get an idea of how to
operate it.
I nd it helpful to attend the winter
sportsmans shows as most of the reel
manufacturers attend these shows and
display all of their newest reels, allow-
ing you to handle them as long as you
desire. The reps are more than happy to
talk shop with you and will often make
recommendations and share their experi-
ences. Some shows even have baitcasting
stations where you can practice pitching
baits into buckets with rigged up rods and
reels. Whether you choose your favorite
bait and tackle shop or you choose to wait
until the next shing expo, ask a lot of
questions and have fun with the process
of nding a reel that is right for you.
If you are interested in adding a
baitcaster to your arsenal, get out there
and give it a try. It might sound like
rocket science, but its not. Its actually
physics. Dont get caught up in the sci-
ence though, and dont be intimidated.
Practice will eventually make perfect.
After a few sessions, you will nd your
groove and baitcasting will become sec-
ond nature to you. You might even nd
yourself growing addicted to the rhythm
of baitcasting and begin to prefer it over
your spinning reels.
With braided line, I have found that a
gentle pinch at the tangle will sometimes
help free things up, but I resist dragging
giant loops of line out of the spool. Many
times, tangles and looping will straighten
up when the spool is immobilized and
the line is pulled forward. Be gentle
and deliberate in what you are doing,
and nesse your way through the birds
nestdrastic yanking and pulling will
only make things worse.
Part of your baitcasting backyard
casting practice sessions will inevitably
require you to practice freeing a birds
nest. This is as important a shing skill
as tying a knot or making a cast and
should be practiced and mastered so that
you are condent at all times when you
are out there on the water.
Choosing a Baitcaster
The rst thing to consider when choos-
ing a baitcaster is your budget. Qual-
ity baitcasters range from $75 to $500.
However, the most critical factor to con-
sider when obtaining a baitcaster is the
style of shing you plan to do with the
reel. Will you be fan-casting crankbaits
and spinnerbaits over long distances, or
will you be pitching and ipping jigs
into heavy cover? This factor will help
you determine the gear ratio of the reel.
Higher gear ratios mean faster retrieve
rates. One guideline for deciding on
gear ratio is determining whether the
reel or the rod is most important to the
presentation. With lures that are cast
and retrieved at a steady pace, such as
spinnerbaits and crankbaits, reels with
a lower gear ratio are often preferred.
With lures that rely on the rod to impart
action, like jigs or worms, a high-speed
reel is best because it picks up line faster
to retrieve the lure and make another cast
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
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CIRCULATION ASSISTANT
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