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20/02/2012

Making Gelato The inside scoop on making gelato - Los Angeles Times

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The inside scoop on making gelato

Ital 's Carpigiani Gelato Universit teaches its students, who hail from all over the globe, how to craft the cream dessert from fresh ingredients in a few steps.
September 23, 2010 | By Sheri Jennings, Special to the Los Angeles Times

Reporting from Bologna, Italy Leave it to Italy -- a country where food and tradition go hand in hand -- to be home to the first university dedicate art of making gelato. In fact, the Carpigiani Gelato University, located outside Bologna, is doing its all to ensure that the future of ice cream's closes gelato, will continue to be that of a fresh product made from all-natural ingredients for local consumption.

Carpigiani, which has sold gelato-making equipment since 1945, started teaching the classes in 2003. Its courses have attracted students from more countries, many of whom returned home to open their own Italian-style gelateria. Carpigiani graduates hail from the expected places such as Italy, Kingdom, France and the United States, but also the unexpected, such as Sudan, India, Iraq and Iran. Enrollment from Asia and South America is b while the Middle East Egypt, Saudi Arabia, Israel, Dubai provides a steady flow of pupils.

Classes are held at the sanitary-looking white Carpigiani headquarters along Via Emilia, an industrial byway constructed by the ancient Romans. On crop of students 41 in all resembled a United Nations conference. Japanese, Brazilian, Indian, German, American, Polish, Nigerian, Mexican, B Turkish and Tanzanian students were focused on the impassioned words of program developer Luciano Ferrari and gelato maker Alessandro Racca teach the art and science behind their trade.

Recipes: Chocolate gelato, Lemon gelato, parmesan gelato, strawberry gelato (milk-based) and strawberry gelato (water-based). If you make any of Times Test Kitchen's recipes in your own home, we want photographic proof. Click here for details.

The instructors start by explaining the difference between gelato and ice cream. Gelato has less fat than ice cream (3% to 9% to ice cream's 10% to 1 contains less air (gelato has 35% to 40% air, ice cream as much as 90%) and is served at a higher temperature. As a consequence, "the intensity of th gelato hits your palate faster than the flavor intensity of ice cream," Ferrari says. Racca simplifies: "Ice cream is very hard and not too creamy. Gelato is creamy and not hard." Though most ice creams require hardening after freezing, gelato can be eaten when first squeezed out of the grate of the mantecatore used for commercial gelato making. "The best gelato is the one that comes directly out of the machine, so gelato is always eaten fresh," Racca says.

the freezing

The finished product is visibly different from ice cream. "Gelato has a matte surface," Ferrari says. "You don't want it to be shiny, as this would refl amount of water that still needs to be frozen. Overall it looks dry. A good structure is one that holds the peak like a meringue. Texture-wise, it has look smooth, like a silk fabric."

Those who have traveled to Italy are familiar with the numerous gelaterie that tempt passersby with curvaceous mounds of multicolored gelati gelato, which is chemical-free, is produced and replenished throughout the day. Since it is made with fresh ingredients, it can't really sit around in th To be at its best, gelato should be eaten at least within two days of being made.

Gelato "is a balance between water and other ingredients like sugars, fats, milk solids and fruit," Racca says. "The aim of Italian gelato is that it is low sugar and low calorie. It is possible to make strawberry gelato with only strawberries, sugar and water no more." In fact, such a gelato was created during the class. Though sherbet and sorbet can have a grainy texture and tart taste, the gelato alla fragola you'd swear it contained milk but it didn't, just as it didn't leave a sugary aftertaste on the tongue. Similarly, a milk-based strawberry gelato, or fragola, had the same strawberry burst but an even creamier back flavor.

A balanced cream-based gelato begins with a base. The simplest is a white base, which essentially is made of sugar and cream. Cocoa or egg yolks ca added, depending on the recipe. Commercial gelatos usually use a stabilizer such as guar gum, which ensures that fats stick together in sub-zero tem That's not necessary for homemade gelatos.

Another difference between homemade and commercial gelatos is the type of sugar added. At home, granulated sugar works just fine, but at the they'll use a mixture of granulated sugar, dextrose and sucrose, a combination that gives less sweetness to the gelato and keeps it softer and easier t

Once the base is mixed, it can be heated to 185 degrees, which Racca refers to as "pasteurization" for sanitation and to improve the flavor. Then i in a standard refrigerator for three hours to two days. Racca refers to the time after pasteurization and before freezing as the "aging process," which enhance flavor.

When enough time has passed, you simply combine the base with the flavor, such as strawberries, mix again with a blender and then freeze. For hom
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20/02/2012

Making Gelato The inside scoop on making gelato - Los Angeles Times

preparation, Racca recommends keeping the freezing simple. Hand-whipping the mix in an aluminum bowl set over a mix of salt and ice produces sa results. Once the gelato starts to get creamy, you can put it in your freezer to finish it. Ideally, gelato should be kept at 5 degrees.

How do you know if you have a "good" gelato? You don't "chew" it. It's softer than ice cream, but not so soft that it melts. Ferrari calls it an in-betwe

Once you've mastered the gelato basics, you can get creative. Ferrari mentioned a cardamom-coffee mixture he tasted in India and a trout sorbet se Japan (intended as a palate cleanser between courses).

Even in Italy, there are some unusual flavors. A client from the Piedmont region asked for a line of gelatos based on cheese. Among the possibilities cheese-honey-caramelized-walnut gelato, which even Ferrara found bizarre. "But it was surprisingly good," he says. food@latimes.com

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