Electronic Game Project Report

Andrew Wong 7TEC6 2012
Electronic Game Project Report

Briefing: The aim of this project was to construct an electronic buzzer game for people to play. The intention to make the game was to make my first ever electronic circuit from scratch. Materials: Materials needed to make an electronic game include an orange LED, a buzzer, a battery clip, 550mm worth of hookup wire, a battery, a piece of aluminium wire, an aluminium strip (~20mm wide, ~105mm long), a switch, a screw eye, some solder, a block of timber wood (190mm x 60mm x 18mm), eight screws, some Silvo (polishing), a cylindrical piece of Perspex (Attached to it was a metal piece) and a hollow metal bullet. Tools and Machines: Tools and machines used to make the electronic game include a soldering iron, a mallet, a clamp, a strip heater, a pencil, a ruler, a hacksaw, a file, a disc sander, a drill press, a pair metal cutters, an engineers square (Machinist square), a screwdriver, a hand drill, a ruler, a long-nose plier, a pair of wire-strippers, a marker pen, a nail punch, a wire-cutter, a wet cloth, a rag, wet-and-dry abrasive paper, a bucket filled with water. Process: 1) Firstly, a sheet of acrylic was chosen out of a range of opaque and translucent acrylic sheets.
2) Secondly, a bucket was filled with water and some wet-and-dry abrasive paper was dipped in it.
3) Now that the wet-and-dry abrasive paper was wet, the acrylic sheets edges were sanded to make it smoother.
4) Next, some Silvo was poured onto a rag and was applied to the acrylic sheets edges to give it a glass-like look.
5) After that, a template was used to mark out where the acrylic should be drilled in six places, one on each corner and two next to each other near the centre, one of the two being bigger than the other.
6) When the template was finished being copied, the acrylic was drilled with the drill press.
7) Next, one side of the acrylic sheet was placed on a strip heater for about three minutes when it was hot.
8) Then, the acrylic sheets heated side was bent 90 upwards and was held in place with a big wooden block for about 30 seconds. The engineers square (Engineers try-square) was used to make sure that the bend was 90.
9) The newly bent acrylic sheet, still being hot, was placed under running water to cool it down.
10) Steps 7 to 9 were repeated for the other side.
11) After that, a block of timber 190mm long, 60mm wide and 18mm high was cut and the bent acrylic was place over it as the image below shows.
12) Then, the timber was made flush with the acrylics edges and a hand-drill was used to drill a hole through the timber through the acrylic.
13) Four screws were screwed into these holes with a screwdriver to hold the timber in place.
14) A hole was then drilled 15mm from the furthest hole on the side with the smaller hole.
15) A screw eye (eye screw) was then clamped with a clamp and half of its rings were horizontally planed in half with a file.
16) A piece of black wire 550mm long was cut from a roll of black wires with a wire cutter and each of the sides were stripped of the insulation with a pair of wire strippers, leaving about 5-10mm of exposed wire.
17) All the other wires (Battery clip, buzzer, etc.) were also removed of their insulation. 18) A red circular plastic Perspex was clamped and a hacksaw was used to remove the metal part of it.
19) The Perspex was then slightly sanded with the Disc Sander.
20) A soldering iron was heated up for a while and heat was applied to the cut part of the screw eye to warm it up. As the solder only sticks to anything hot. In case the soldering iron was dirty, hence not being fully heated, the soldering iron can be cleaned with a wet cloth.
21) The black wires exposed cable was placed on the heated part of the screw eye and was soldered on. It was then left to cool down for about 10 seconds.
22) Next, the black wire was fed through the plastic handle and the screw eye was screwed into the plastic handle.
23) The black wire was also fed through the smaller in the acrylic and a knot was made so that the wire wouldnt come out of the acrylic.
24) A small round hollow metal bullet was placed in a clamp facing upwards and was sawed half-way vertically downwards with a hacksaw.
25) This bullet was then put aside for later use.
26) A marker pen was used to trace a template for an aluminium strip 20mm wide and 105mm long, an outline of the aluminium strip and four dots.
27) The outline was then cut using a pair of metal cutters.
28) The edges were sanded with the Disc Sander so that the edges wouldnt be too sharp.
29) The two inmost dots were drawn on with a vertical line from a pencil with a ruler, marking where the aluminium strip will be bent.
30) A nail punch and a mallet were used to punch a hole on the two dots closer to the end of the strip.
31) The aluminium strip was then brought to the drill press where the two dots that were punched were drilled.
32) Then the aluminium strip was place on a flat clamp and was bent to make a metal holder for the battery to sit in.
33) After that, a ruler was used to measure 50mm inwards from the edge of timber on the side of the bigger hole on the acrylic and a straight line was drawn.
34) The battery holder was positioned over the line and a hand drill was used to make two holes into the timber, but not completely through.
35) Two screws were then screwed into the timber, holding the battery holder in place. If the battery holder was longer than the width of the timber, the extra leftover materials can just be filed off with a file.
36) Next, some Silvo was again poured into a rag and was applied to a piece of aluminium to make it shine more.
37) The piece of aluminium was then bent into preference. No machine is needed for this as aluminium is quite easy to bend.
38) The aluminium rod was then fitted through the two holes in acrylic and into the two holes on the timber to make sure that it fit. If the aluminium rod didnt go in properly or didnt stay down, it was bent again to shape so it could fit.
39) For later additions and changes to the timber and the acrylic, the four screws were taken out and were stored. The aluminium was also put aside. 40) Next, a portion of the battery clips red cable/wire was cut using the wirecutter and the unexposed wires side of the newly cut wire was removed of its insulation so the ends were exposed. 41) The battery clips remaining red wire was wrapped around a hole in the middle prong on the switch.
42) Now that the battery clips red wire was connected to the switch, the switch was placed in a clamp, ready to be soldered.
43) The soldering iron was then positioned over the middle prong and soldered the wire and middle prong of the switch together. It was then left to cool down.
44) With this done, it was time for the LED light and the switch to be connected together.
45) One side of cut piece of the battery clips red wire ends was wrapped around one of the outside prongs of the switch and was soldered together with the help of the clamp. 46) After it cooled down, a pair of long-nose pliers was used to bend half of both of the LEDs two prongs 180 upwards.
47) The other end of the red wire was then wrapped around the middle of the halved part which did not have a flat sided side.
48) The LED was clamped and was soldered on with the wire. 49) When this had cooled down, the buzzers red wire end was also wrapped around the other LED prong and was soldered.
50) After they solder had cooled, a wire-cutter was used to cut of the extra bits of metal on the LED.
51) The black wire of the buzzer was then soldered on to the black wire with a knot on it. 52) A ruler was used to measure 50mm from the edge of the timber and a straight line was drawn, indicating where the buzzer would be placed.
53) The buzzer was then positioned in the centre of the line, cables facing inwards and a drill was used to make a hole in the timber for 2 screws to go in. Then two screws were used to be screwed in with a screwdriver.
54) The LED was pushed upwards into the smaller hole at the top of the acrylic.
55) The 4 rings on the switch were removed and put aside, to be put back on at a later time.
56) Now, the rings were removed, the switch was pushed up into the bigger hole and 3 of the rings were put back on, the toothy jagged one, a hexnut and another hexnut. The other ring can be removed/thrown out. 57) The battery holder was unscrewed and the battery was placed inside, with the battery facing inwards.
58) The battery was then clipped on to the battery clip and the battery holder was screwed back down.
59) The metal bullet was then taken and was put back into the hole, cut facing downwards with the black wire from the battery clip hooked on to it (touching).
60) The bullet was secured in place by being hammered down into the timber with a mallet.
61) The acrylic was place back onto the timber and was screwed down to hold it in place. The aluminium was also put back through the acrylic and into the metal bullet, with the screw eye going through the aluminium. 62) Finally the game was tested by switching the switch on then testing if the LED and the buzzer would activate when the metal part of the handle touched the aluminium.
Evaluation: Problems faced when making the electronic game were that when testing out the circuit, everything worked BUT the light, this was because the two cables were touching each other, and not going through the LED. The solution for this was just to make sure that the two cables werent touching each other, hence allowing power to flow through the LED. New skills I learnt when making the electronic game were that I learnt how to use a soldering iron carefully/properly and that you dont need to use a lot of solder when connecting two cables/devices together. If I were to make this project again, the only changes I would amend would be not to use too much solder. Overall I am happy with my project because it taught me new methods and techniques. It was also fun to do. Opinions I received from friends and families were that it was very hard and that it was physically impossible (Kelvin Lun). They liked it because it gave them a bit of a challenge, but so was his. The project fulfilled its intended outcome. I think that this was a great project to do as it was fun and interesting.

Electronic Game Project Report

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Andrew Wong 7TEC6 2012