The Digging Fork

A Davis Garden Newsletter

January - February 2009

January
Planting Cool season hardy annuals
Perennials: CA natives,
most everything except
frost tender plants
Cool season vegetables:
cilantro, potatoes (end of
month)
February
Cool season hardy annuals
Perennials: see January
Cool season vegetables:
broccoli, cabbage, lettuce,
cauliflower, cilantro,
potatoes, artichokes

Bare-root plants: asparagus, Bare-root plants:

artichokes, strawberries,
see
Plant Notes
berries, rhubarb, grapes,
fruit trees, ornamental
trees, shrubs, vines, roses
Cool season hardy annuals
Seeding
directly Cool season vegetables:
into the Cilantro, peas (late Jan., soak
garden seed overnight, then pre-germinate
4-5 days between moist paper
see
towels)
Plant Notes
Seeding Planted in garden mid-April
Warm season vegetables:
inside or basil, eggplant, peppers,
greenhouse tomatillos, tomatoes
Warm season flowers
Fertilize
Spray nectarines and peaches
Pest & with fixed copper around
Disease New Year’s Day to control
peach leaf curl.
Control Spray fruit and nut trees,
roses with dormant oil to
control over-wintering eggs
and fungal spores.
Control for snails, slugs,
birds, earwigs and cabbage
worms as needed.
When pruning, look for borer
damage and cut off infected
limbs, especially on roses.
Tasks Prune: deciduous trees,
shrubs, roses, fruit trees
(except apricots), grapes.
(Don’t prune spring flowering
shrubs, trees, vines or once
blooming roses until after bloom)
Continue garden cleanup:
pick up leaves, cut back
herbaceous perennials
(don’t cut back frost tender
perennials until late spring),
remove unwanted
seedlings or transplant,
cultivate with digging
fork, weed and mulch
Divide and replant
herbaceous perennials.
Order warm season bulbs
see
Plant Notes
for spring planting
Frost protection continues.
Don’t prune frost
damaged plants until new
growth begins.
Water Water under large eaves.
Hydrated plants survive
frost better than dry ones!
see January
Warm season bulbs:
gladiolus
Cool season hardy annuals
Cool season vegetables:
beets, carrots, cilantro,
leeks, parsnips (presoak seed
overnight), peas (soak, see Jan.)
radish, Swiss chard,
green onions
Planted in garden mid-April
Warm season vegetables:
basil
Warm season flowers
Citrus with citrus fertilizer
Spray nectarines and peaches
with fixed copper around
Valentines Day to control
peach leaf curl.
Dormant oil spray before
buds show color (see Jan.)
Continue control of snails,
slugs, birds, earwigs and
cabbage worms.
When pruning, look for borer
damage and cut off infected
limbs, especially on roses.
Pruning continues
Finish pruning deciduous
trees.
Finish pruning fruit trees
before they bloom.
Finish pruning roses by
Valentines day.
Paint trunk & limbs of
newly planted fruit trees
with diluted white latex
paint to protect them from
sunburn.
Garden clean-up continues
and should be complete this
month to enjoy the spring.
Divide & replant perennials
Warm season ornamental
grasses: cut to the ground in
late winter to early spring,
when new growth appears.
Frost protection continues
(see Jan.)
Water under large eaves.
Check drip lines for leaks
and flush them -- easier
now with less plant growth.
Spring is here! Flowering quince and daffodils blooming mid February.
Phenology and Gardening
Phenology is the study of the annual cyclical events
of plants and animals. In a given location, naturally
occurring events generally progress in the same order
year after year and the dates are observed and
recorded. These might include the first observation of
the monarch butterfly, the emergence date of leaves on
the crape myrtle trees or the first flowering of the
purple lupine on the banks of Hwy 113. Also possible
are the first sightings of migratory birds, the spurge
weed of summer, seed dispersal of larkspur or
red/orange leaves on the Chinese pistache trees in fall.
As an example, Patricia has been observing (and
somewhat recording) the blooming of the first yellow
daffodils in her yard for the past 21 years. Her son
was born on Feb 6 and every year since his birth there
has been at least one yellow daffodil blooming in the
yard on his birthday. Often there are many, many
blooming! The natural timing of events varies from
year to year as a response to the seasonal changes in
rainfall, temperature, duration of sunlight, etc.
Phenology, a word derived from the Greek
phainomai meaning to appear, is very much a part of
history. The Japanese and Chinese have been
recording the blooming of the cherry blossoms,
important in ancient festivals, for at least 1200 years.
The winemakers of Europe have records of grape
harvest dates for the past 600 years. Hunter-gatherer
civilizations all over the world use phenological
information to help them survive. Tracking the
appearance of many plants and animals is very
important for their food, clothing and medicine.
Currently, phenology is also a tool to help monitor
global warming trends.
But, how is all this useful in our own gardens?
Potential uses include:
-determining the best planting dates
-weed control, emergence date of weeds
-insect control and attracting beneficial insects
-pollination of fruit trees and other crops
-a better understanding of plant and animal interactions
-designing gardens for seasonal color and wildlife
 For instance, gardeners have historically used the
signs of spring to help them decide optimal times to
plant their crops. There are many folk sayings based on
phenological events, but they are often only useful for
specific locations. When the daffodils begin to bloom it
is time to plant peas. Peas are best planted in the fall in
Davis, but another opportunity comes at the end of
January to the first of February and this is when the
yellow daffodils are starting to bloom. When the
blossoms of the apple tree begin to fall, plant your corn
seeds. The first planting of corn in our area is about the
end of April. Is this when the apple blossoms are
falling?
Observing the annual timing of bloom, insect
activity and emergence of leaves and/or plants can help
us become more aware of nature’s cycles and to
become better gardeners.
Organizations and universities all over the world are
keeping phenological records.
www.attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/phenology.html
Check out Project Budburst for a way we can all help-
USA National Phenology Network www.usanpn.org
Arroyo lupine & California poppies Cool season pansies
Plant sales, workshops & events
UCD Arboretum
Volunteer Training Starts in January
Opportunities for naturalists (school programs), fix-it
crew, gardeners, nursery record-keepers and office help.
For registration sullensvang@ucdavis.edu 752-8324
Lots of great walks and tours coming up!!
Member Appreciation Sale March 14, 9 am to 1 pm
For information 752-4880 www.arboretum.ucdavis.edu
Davis Garden Club
Pruning Speaker is Ben Schardt Jan 26, 7-9 pm
Program TBA February 23, 7-9 pm
For information 222-3052 www.davisgardenclub.org
Davis Central Park Gardens
Grow Seed Starts Indoors – vegetables Jan. 10 9 am
Rose Pruning Techniques Jan. 10 10:30 am
Composting and Vermiculture Feb. 14 9 am
Selection, Care & Sharpening of Tools Feb. 14 10:30 am
For more information http://www.centralparkgardens.org
2
Woodland Library Rose Club
Rose Pruning Seminar January 10 8:45 to 11 am
Leake Room, Woodland Library. Bring pruning shears, gloves.
Information Sue at (530) 666-0034 or
http://www.cityofwoodland.org/gov/depts/library/roseclub/default.asp
City of Davis Workshops
Tree Pruning Workshops Jan. 10 or Jan. 24, 1 to 4 pm
$17 cost. Information www.cityofdavis.org 757-5626
Davis Compost Correspondence Class (free compost bin)
Information www.davisrecycling.org 757-5686
Davis Ace Hardware
Pruning Clinic Saturday, Jan. 17 10 am and 2 pm
UCD Project Compost Workshops
Backyard Composting January 24
Worm Composting February 7
For information contact Project Compost 754-8227
or http://projectcompost.ucdavis.edu/
Woodland College Classes and Short Courses:
Fundamentals of Environmental Horticulture
Jan 20 to May 26 Tue/Thurs 5:30-6:65 pm
Plant Propagation
Jan 20 to May 26 Tue/Thurs 7:00-8:15 pm
Beginning Floral Design (short course)
Feb 27 to Mar 21 Fri 5:30-9:20 pm, Sat 8:30 am-1:45 pm
For information 661-5720, jschulte_611@hotmail.com or
www.yccd.edu for the fees required.
Master Gardener Workshops
Fruit Tree Training and Pruning Jan, 24, 10 am - 12 pm
Landscape trees – Selection, Planting and Establishment
Jan. 31, 10 am - 12 noon
Propagation – reduce gardening costs by propagating
your own seeds & cuttings Feb. 28, 10 am - 12 noon
Workshops are free and held at Woodland Community College
http://ceyolo.ucdavis.edu/Gardening_and_Master_Gardening/
Davis Botanical Society
Botanical Illustration Workshop
Saturdays, January 24 and 31, 9 am to 12 noon
$45 for Society member and $55 nonmembers
Advanced registration required.
Botanical Teas in the Herbarium
Wed. Jan 28 and Feb 25, 4-6 pm
Information http://herbarium.ucdavis.edu
Davis Flower Arrangers
UC Arboretum All-Stars Warren Roberts January 6, 7 pm
Meetings at Eleanor Roosevelt Circle Community Center
For information contact the President at 756-6722
Plant Sales at The Gifted Gardener
Feb. 28 and Mar. 1 9 am to 3 pm
18th and J Streets, Sacramento. Sales benefits local charities
Information GardenNotes@sbcglobal.net (916) 923-3745
Friends of the Davis Library Book Sale
February 6 (noon-7 pm), 7 (10 am-5 pm), 8 (10 am-3 pm)
Often good finds on gardening books! $5/ bag on Sunday
Information 757-5593
San Francisco Flower and Garden Show
March 18-22. Show is moving to San Mateo this year.
UCD Arboretum has transportation plus admission
for Wed. March 18. Pre-registration, 752-4880
http://www.gardenshow.com/sf/index/index.asp
Ceanothus California Field Botanists Association
Learn to key plants. Group meets about once a month
at UC Davis Center for Plant Diversity
Information www.ceanothusfieldbotanist.blogspot.com
 Forcing Flowering Branches
January is often the dreariest month of the year here
in Davis, holiday excitement and color having passed.
Although there certainly are flowers to be found, we
have to wait until February for the start of spring
showiness. It is a perfect time to practice the old-
fashioned art of forcing flowering branches - that is,
bringing budding branches inside and convincing them
it is time to bloom and/or leaf. Many of us may
remember our grandmothers’ beautiful wintertime
displays of flowering branches.
Forcing is done most readily with buds which have
formed the previous summer and have had a short
period of dormancy. Forsythia and flowering quince
are two of the most commonly used. Some other
likely candidates are deciduous fruit trees (apple,
crabapple, pear, plum, cherry, peach, nectarine,
apricot), almond, bridal wreath spirea, redbud, wisteria.
Also, Japanese maple is a good example of forcing for
foliage. A branch cut closer to a plant’s typical
blooming time will take less time to begin flowering.
Feel free, of course, to experiment with timing and
other choices of deciduous plants.
The basic needs of these branches are light, warmth
and, most of all, water. First, make sure to have a very
sturdy, clean container in order to avoid a tipping
disaster! Choose substantial branches, commonly 1-3
feet long, with many flower buds. A larger diameter
stem equals more sugars to feed the flowers. Cut the
branch on the diagonal and remove the buds that will
be underwater. Ideally, peel back or scrape off some
of the bark and split the stem for about 1-2” from the
cut end. The point is to give the stem more access to
water. Put the branches deeply into a container of
tepid water (110°F) and move it to a cool part of the
house (60-65°F) for several days before moving to its
final location. If the branches warm too quickly, the
sap cannot rise properly and the branches will flower
weakly and dry up.
Newly cut stems drink a lot of water so make sure
to check that there is always plenty of clean water and
change it if necessary. Re-cutting stems is a good idea
and softened water is toxic to plants unless filtered.
The older books suggest immersing the whole branches
initially in tepid water for a few hours up to overnight
to speed up the forcing process. Spraying the branches
with a fine mist will also help keep them hydrated.
Either with or without flowers, they will provide a
great deal of beauty and enjoyment in your house!
If the branches are happy and dropping flower
petals isn’t a bother, one can leave the branches to
continue leafing out for some nice indoor green. The
whole process of forcing the flowering buds into
bloom is actually very educational because it is easy to
watch closely the growth of the flowers and leaves. So
we receive the bonus of education along with beauty!
3
Plant notes!
Here is more information about some plants mentioned in this newsletter.
Cool season annual flowers and vegetables:
arroyo lupine Lupinus succulentus CA native, to 3’ tall.
California poppies Eschscholzia californica Our state flower.
larkspur Consolida ajacis 1-4’ tall, many colors. All parts of plant
are poisonous.
See The Digging Fork Sept-Oct 2007 and Jan-Feb 2008
for more information. Last chance for cool season plants and
seeds is late January to early February.
Trees and shrubs for forcing blooms
bridal wreath spirea Spiraea Several species and hybrids grow in
Davis. Deciduous, arching shrub. Cut back after flowering.
flowering quince Chaenomeles Deciduous shrubs and small trees.
Native to Japan and China. White, pink, red and orange shades of
flowers. Easy to grow. Some have small fruits and most are thorny.
forsythia Forsythia Deciduous, fountain-shaped shrubs with beautiful
yellow flowers. Native to E. Asia . Prune after flowering.
fruit trees, almond Prunus, Malus and Pyrus species Deciduous.
Japanese maple Acer palmatum Deciduous. Many cultivars from 3-
25 feet, beautifully colored leaves. Boron in our water burns leaf edges.
redbud Cercis Deciduous shrubs and small trees. Western redbud
(Cercis occidentalis) is the beautiful flowering tree we know here.
Prune when dormant or after flowering. Interesting seedpods.
wisteria Wisteria Deciduous, woody climber with beautiful, fragrant
flowers, usually in purple tones. Chinese wisteria (W. sinensis) has a
single, showy bloom season, while Japanese wisteria (W. floribunda)
has a longer, less showy bloom season.
Bare-root
See The Digging Fork Jan-Feb 2007 and Nov-Dec 2008
Warm season bulbs:
See The Digging Fork Jan-Feb 2008 for ideas.
Warm season ornamental grasses
Many warm season grasses are often left standing for winter
interest, although they are tan and dry. These grasses need to be
cut back to the ground just as the new growth begins. Cool
season grasses will be green and growing during the winter.
Miscellaneous
butterfly bush Buddleja Pruning requirements vary.
Chinese pistache Pistacia chinensis Deciduous tree common in
Davis with striking fall colors. 30-60 ft. Tolerates drought.
crape myrtle Lagerstroemia Deciduous shrubs and trees that bloom
in summer and have nice fall color.
flowering maple Abutilon hybrids Flowers most of the year.
Forsythia branch has been cut at diagonal, scraped and end split.
Cut forsythia branches in January are ready to go in the house in a
cool spot for several days. Forsythia blooming in garden in March.
 More gardening tips!
Do roses really have thorns?
“A thorn is an integral part of
the plant. A stem is composed
of xylem and phloem which
moves water and nutrients up
and down the plant. A true
thorn also contains xylem and
phloem. Typically they are part
of the plant and will not snap
off easily. They tend to break,
usually at the tip. A prickle is
Olympiad rose an appendage that is attached to
the surface of the cane and
snaps off easily. That is what roses have.” Steve Jones,
Pacific Southwest District of the American Rose Society.
To easily break off a rose prickle (just doesn’t sound the
same, does it?), bend it sideways. Oh, and citrus do have
thorns!
Pruning roses
Now is the time to prune roses and there are numerous local
workshops in January to help. Keep an eye out for damage
from cane borers and prune below the damage until the cut
yields white pith with no hole. Limp rose stem shoots in
mid April to mid June are often a sign of a raspberry horntail
borer inside. Just cut off the shoot below the larvae to
control further damage.
In the spring, tips of rose stems may suddenly wilt, indicating a borer is
inside. When pruning roses, watch for holes made by cane borers.
Continue to prune below this area until there is no hole and only white pith.
To help control peach leaf curl on peach and
nectarine trees. Spray the entire tree (at Thanksgiving,
New Years and Valentines Day) with a copper based
fungicide. Carefully check the label because those with less
than 50% copper will not be effective! Look for fixed
copper sulfate -- Redwood Barn Nursery usually carries it.
Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed
in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas A. Edison
Newsletter created by:
Patricia Carpenter -- Gardening Coach (Design and Education),
with 35 years of Davis gardening experience.
Frances Andrews -- Long-time organic farmer
The bi-monthly newsletter is free if received by email. If mailed,
the cost is $15 per year. To be added to the subscription list or to
unsubscribe, contact us at: TheDiggingFork@gmail.com
Butterfly bush or Buddleja. There are two kinds of
Buddleja, those that bloom on old wood and those that
bloom on new wood and the pruning requirements are
different! B. davidii is very commonly grown and blooms
on new wood, so should be cut back by half or almost to the
ground in February before the new growth starts. If not
pruned, the bush gets tall and leggy. Buddleja species that
bloom on old wood early in the spring should be pruned
after the bloom. If pruned in winter, all the blossoms will be
cut off since the buds were formed last summer.
Staking trees and shrubs.
Most trees and shrubs don’t need staking when planted --
and those that are supported need the stakes removed when
the plant has become established, usually in six months to
one year. The stake that is found snugly supporting the
trunk in a nursery container is there to protect the plant from
breakage during all the rough treatment from the grower to
the nursery to your garden. This stake should be removed
and discarded (or reused).
If a plant does need staking due to an exceptionally tall,
or weak trunk and in areas with high winds, then it needs to
be done properly!! The staked plant must continue to move
and sway in order to develop a strong trunk with taper. Two
stakes are required, either 1” or 2” in diameter, depending on
the size of the plant. Place the stakes a foot or two away
from the stem/trunk on the east and west sides of the plant,
since most of the worst winds come from the north in Davis.
Support needs to be only as high as is needed to prevent the
stem or trunk from bending over. Secure with soft plastic
gardening tape or velcro using two figure eights. A twist or
two in the tie will help keep it from sliding. Sturdier ties
may be needed for very large trees.
Flowering maple (below) is properly staked.
The stakes are taller than the plant because
it will double in size in the next year and the
plastic tape will need to be retied as it grows.
Abutilon ‘Moonchimes’ ↑
Velcro tape for gardens ↓
Abutilon or flowering maple, will often benefit from
staking as the plant is top-heavy with so many blooms.
Since they seem to bloom all year, gardeners are reluctant to
cut them back when planting or when they start to fall over.
A top-heavy abutilon will continue to fall over again and
again and never seems to become established with strong
roots. Proper staking can solve the problem.
Check around your garden and neighborhood and rescue a
tree that no longer needs staking or is improperly staked!!