BIOTEX Public Workshop on Textile Biotechnology

FILATI MACLODIO S.p.A. Mr. Daniele Beringheli, R&D Senior Consultant Brussels, November 20th, 2008

Founded in 1976 and immediately famous in the ring cotton spinning field for its flexibility and wide choice of products, Filati Maclodio S.p.A. has diversified its production along the years to a continual evolution and new projects. The traditional fashion sector occupies nowadays 70% of the company turnover, with a consistent 30%, under continual evolution, devoted to technical yarns and to the products for special uses. A dynamic R&D centre, a competent technical staff and production lines specifically projected for small lots and high profiled experimentations are the key for important partnerships with Customers, fibers producers, R&D centres and universities labs for the study and development of new projects.

Fatturato Filati Maclodio

40 35 30 25 18,4 20 20 15 10 5 0 1 Anno di riferimento 2002 - 2008 (proiezione) 22,3 20 20 22,6 28

36

Fashion Yarns Technical and Special Yarns Organic certified yarns RIFIM (Research and Innovation)

3 facilities 400 overall employees 60.000 overall spools 4 mil Kg production 2008

RIFIM R&D by Filati Maclodio

Fashion yarns (internal style research centre)

Technical yarns division

Organic yarns division

Pure and Applied research

Pure research and its application to the textile reality

Final project completement and its marketing

Experimentation, prototype test, industrial production

Cooperation in the textile chain

University

Laboratories and research centres

Polymerization

Extrusion

Spinning

Dyeing

Weaving

Dyeing

Finishing

Garment

Work in progress
BIOPOLYMERS BAST FIBERS

Ingeo

Broom

Lenpur

Nettle

Milkofil

Piume

Biopolymers - PLA (Ingeo)

In cooperation with

Ingeo = biopolymer suitable for a series of performing applications From totally renewable source (plants) no oil origin (main source: corn maize) Raw material easy to grow up, widely available in many areas of the earth Totally recyclable Compostable

Biopolymers Lenpur
From natural source (trees) Environmental friendly policy no trees are cut, just the 2 years old branches are cut away; the process is not aggressive (a content of 99.75% of cellulose is found after ashes examination) American patent to protect it Characterization of the fiber and its use in blend with other fibers moisture regain: assorbency: very soft cashmere touch bright Lenpur: 13.3% excellent

Biopolymers - Milkofil

Old Italian discovery (1935) taken back to daily use because of the Need of renewable and alternative sources From renewable source (milk, extra quantity not taken from the food chain) Long experimentations for the new fashion needs 18 amino acids contained in casein grant a moisturizing effect on the skin Tolerated by sensitive skins (Oeko Test Class 1)

Biopolymers - Feathers
From waste source (fowl industry), normally of very low or no commercial value;
its waste disposal is normally a problem and must obey strict laws. - A polymer has been obtained from this material; it is a precious one, as it is nearly 100% made of keratin; possible textile applications are being evaluated. -Advantages: - Enviromentally friendly from waste material - From renewable source - Reduced energy production costs (not derived from oil) - Completely bio degradating in normal conditions Goal: - to get a noble spinning fiber from a poor polymer from waste material - to industralize a new fiber which would be resistant resilient hygroscopic flame retardant very light

Bast fibers - Broom

The project, started in 2001 by the research institute Artes, is supported by the Region of Calabria, which we thank for the precious help, and is, therefore, a concrete example of how important the Institutions seal is for the research and its application. Artes has developed a productive process which goes from cultivation and mechanical harvesting of the Spanish Broom [Spartium Junceum] to enzymatic retting, mechanical de - fibering and spinning on cotton and wool industrial plants, with encouraging results. Filati Maclodio is the first spinning industry who understood the value of the action, realizing some samples of exclusive yarns and intensively co - operating to the development and promotion of the entire project. In particular, the action concerned the following key aspects: recovery & valorisation of natural-cultural-productive heritage of the territory characterisation of the fibre and first technical spinning tests R&D in enzymatic biotechnologies [focused on autonomous production of customised enzymes] promotion of the project to key actors [successful example of cooperation amongst universities, research institutes, industry and institutions].

Bast fibers - Broom

R&D is now bringing to an innovation cluster start-up [EU communication 2006/c 323/01] including a world-class centre for research & commercialization of enzymebased technologies for application into the textile industry and new businesses based on natural fibres processing. Five drivers define the action: 1. To qualify the rural areas making them attractive 2. To build, qualify and enlarge a network of research laboratories 3. To select a team of young researchers, entrepreneurs and managers and duly train them 4. To attract and contract senior experts, 5. To activate and manage a community regeneration strategy. The present phase of innovation cluster start-up is the involvement of those industries, universities and research centres which have been coperating since 2001 [Artes, Filati Maclodio, Rubinelli, University of Oulu, Gent, Arad, Leicester, Next Technology Tecnotessile, LT, etc.], connecting them with other regional and international actors. The first steps are the submission of a network proposal to the COST [Italy, UK, Romania, Slovenia and Poland] and the detailed design of the innovation cluster [Natural fibres Industry, Biotech Lab, Textile design Lab, Natural dyeing Lab, Spinning Lab, Vocational and long-life training School].

Bast fibers - Nettle

Common work onto the transformation process
(mechanical and enzymatic) Research on the fiber to use it inside the cotton spinning industry, both pure and in blend with other fibres Optimization of the fiber cultivation Industrialization of the product Keeping the original fiber characteristics: Hollow fiber Light Thermal regulating and insulating In cooperation with

Conclusions
1. Cooperation which involves all sectors: University Research Centres for Chemistry & Biology Mechanic - textile Agriculture Textile transformation

2. Importance of an open and co operating partnership 3. Importance of a full involvment and cooperation by Universities and Research Centres.

Thank you for Your attention

Filati Maclodio S.p.A. www.filatimaclodio.it Daniele Beringheli daniele.beringheli@filatimaclodio.it danieleberingheli@libero.it