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CAPACITOR REPAIR/REPLACEMENT GUIDE To provide the field with repair/replacement criteria for A/C drive system link capacitors. Komatsu Electric Drive Dump Trucks: 830E-AC: A30001-A30071, A30079-A30108; 830E-1AC: A30072-A30078, A30109 & Up; 930E-4: A30462 & Up; 930E-4SE: A30587 & Up; 960E-1: A30001, A30003 & Up 091CHA Epoxy Kit (XA4518)
It may be difficult to determine whether a cracked, damaged or leaking link capacitor can be repaired or must be replaced. Use the following information as a guide to judge whether to repair or replace a link capacitor. Also included is the procedure for using epoxy kit (XA4518) to repair acceptable cracks in the capacitor housing. If there is any doubt as to whether a link capacitor can be repaired or must be replaced, contact your Komatsu customer service manager for further guidance.
NOTE: For the proper capacitor removal and installation procedure, refer to Parts & Service News AA09070.
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Replacement Criteria
Capacitors that have burst or expanded must be replaced (see Figure 1).
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Page 3 of 15 Some cracks may extend too far to be repaired. If crack (1, Figure 2) at lifting bracket (2) can still be seen after foam gasket (3) is installed, the capacitor must be replaced. The U-bracket of the capacitor mounting hardware must not rest on the epoxy after a crack is repaired. Repairing a crack that extends beyond the foam gasket would require using epoxy in the area where the U-bracket contacts the top of the capacitor housing.
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Repair Criteria
Small cracks (1, Figure 3) that are completely covered by the foam gasket and fractures (2) along the weld line of the lifting bracket can be repaired using epoxy kit (XA4518).
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Page 5 of 15 Capacitors that resemble those in Figure 4 do not require the use of epoxy for repair. They are leaking from terminal studs (1) on the front of the capacitor. To properly repair such leaking, clean the front surface of the capacitor with rubbing alcohol and tighten the nuts to 19 Nm (14 ft lb). If the leaking continues even after the nuts are properly tightened, replace the capacitor.
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Repairing Cracks
Preparation NOTE: One epoxy kit should service multiple capacitors. For a more efficient repair process, perform preparation steps 1 - 8 on all of the capacitors that need repair before applying epoxy to any of the capacitors. 1. To repair a link capacitor, it must first be removed from the control cabinet. Refer to Parts & Service News AA09070 for the proper capacitor removal procedure.
A capacitor can build up an electrical charge even while disconnected. To avoid possible electrical shock, do not touch the terminal studs on the front of the capacitor unless they are short-circuited by a common wire. 2. Connect the four terminal studs on the front of the link capacitor to a common wire (see Figure 5). Otherwise, the capacitor can build up an electrical charge even while disconnected from the truck.
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Page 7 of 15 3. The capacitor may be very dirty (see Figure 6). Use rubbing alcohol and clean rags to thoroughly clean the capacitor before beginning any repair work. Clean well under the lifting bracket to help ensure a successful repair. 4. Move the capacitor to a controlled environment to complete the repair work. The controlled environment must have clean air, adequate ventilation, and a controlled temperature of 25 C (77 F) or higher to allow for proper curing. The capacitor must also remain still once the epoxy is applied.
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Page 8 of 15 5. Use a permanent marker to mark the crack that is being repaired (see Figure 7).
6. To ensure a strong bond between the capacitor housing and epoxy, remove the paint around the area of the crack (see Figure 8). Use a method of paint removal that ensures you do not cause more damage to the metal of the capacitor housing. After the paint is removed, wipe off the debris and clean the area with a clean rag and rubbing alcohol.
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Page 9 of 15 7. Temporarily put foam gasket (1, Figure 9) in place to ensure that the crack is still completely covered by the gasket. Ensure that the gasket is 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) thick. If it is not, or if a foam gasket is not available, use another method to measure 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) from the side of the lifting bracket. If the crack extends farther than the allowable distance, do not repair the capacitor. Replace the capacitor instead. If the crack is within the acceptable limit, proceed with the repair procedure.
8. Use duct tape to mask off the area that is being repaired (see Figure 10). Use the foam gasket as a guide. Once the duct tape is in place, remove the foam gasket.
Page 10 of 15 Applying Epoxy 1. The epoxy bag has a slider seal that prevents the two chemicals from mixing (see Figure 11). Slide the two plastic pieces apart. This may take some force.
2. Put on the plastic gloves to protect your hands, then squeeze the epoxy bag from one end to the other multiple times until the two chemicals have been thoroughly mixed together (see Figure 12). 3. Cut off one corner of the epoxy bag. If any epoxy contacts the cutting tool, use a rag and rubbing alcohol to clean it off before the epoxy hardens.
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From this point in the repair procedure, do not move or bump the capacitor. Any movement may cause the oil level in the capacitor to rise and possibly contaminate the epoxy, decreasing the effectiveness of the repair. Do not remove the duct tape masking before the epoxy is fully cured. Otherwise, the epoxy may shift and cause the repair to fail. 4. To apply the epoxy, gently squeeze the epoxy bag over the unmasked area of the capacitor. A small squeeze should generate a pool of epoxy similar to Figure 13. Ensure that some of the epoxy flows under to lifting bracket, as shown, or use the spreading sticks to push some of the epoxy under the lifting bracket. This ensures that any cracks that might spread under the lifting bracket will be encased in epoxy.
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Page 12 of 15 5. Cover all of the unmasked area, as shown in Figure 14, and allow the epoxy time to fully cure. The epoxy should be tar-like after 20 minutes at room temperature, but it needs 24 hours to fully cure at a typical room temperature of 25 C (77 F). The cure time can be accelerated by applying heat. At a temperature of 65 C (149 F), the cure time can be reduced to approximately four hours.
a. If an accelerated cure time is planned, use a digital thermometer to monitor the temperature (see Figure 15). Do not exceed 130 C (266 F).
Page 13 of 15 b. If a heat gun is being used to accelerate the cure time, secure the thermometer lead in the air path of the heat gun (see Figure 16). Do not exceed 130 C (266 F).
6. After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the duct tape masking. a. Use a utility knife to cut a thin guide line in the hardened epoxy where you want it to break (along the edge of the duct tape). b. Slide the utility knife blade between the epoxy and the duct tape and twist the knife. The epoxy should break along the guide line and easily separate from the duct tape (see Figure 17). c. Remove the duct tape masking from the capacitor.
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Page 14 of 15 7. Paint any areas of exposed metal on the capacitor housing (see Figure 18).
8. To check whether the crack has been fixed, turn over the capacitor for a few moments (see Figure 19), then set it right side up again. Check under and around the lifting bracket for signs of oil leakage. If additional leaks are found, repeat the entire repair procedure for the other crack(s). If no leakage is detected, proceed to the next step.
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Page 15 of 15 9. Install foam gaskets (1, Figure 20) on both sides of the lifting bracket, then put U-bracket (2) of the capacitor mounting hardware in place to ensure that it rests flat on top of the capacitor. The U-bracket must not rest on any part of the epoxy. If it does, the epoxy will wear away over time and the U-bracket will become loose, possibly causing a future capacitor failure.
10. The capacitor can now be installed in the control cabinet. Refer to Parts & Service News AA09070 for the proper capacitor installation procedure.
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