This top was inspired by a lovely antique in my collection. Its a project that is easily done in a day (or less!

); the techniques used include drafting a simple pattern, creating pin tucks, lace application, and a rolled hem. For my initial version of this reproduction, I used a simple polyester bridal lining I picked up at my fabric store, as the weight and opacity closely matched the original this was based on. China silk, light silk twill, or a lightweight linen would be lovely options for material as well. For embellishment, the original sported a wide lace piece at the front, and narrower lace along the sides and back. In the spirit of this mix and match idea, you can certainly use lace motifs, pieces scrounged from lace yardage as a centerpiece and then supplement it with tape lace. For my version, I used a single piece of vintage tape lace that had a wave edge. This tutorial is meant as a base for your project; variations and customizing is encouraged! Try it in a soft print, skip the pin tucks, substitute self fabric spaghetti straps for the ribbon, or maybe even try some lace insertion! I hope you enjoy this tutorial, and I would love to hear your thoughts and feedback about it! Please feel free to drop me a line at: elegantmusings@gmail.com or visit my blog: elegantmusings.com. Have fun sewing!!!

Please note: this tutorial is intended for your personal use only. Please do not redistribute, republish or copy these instructions and images. Interested in sharing this tutorial with others? Please link to my website. If you'd like to use the instructions to make garments for sale, however, you are welcome to!

You will need to take the following measurements on yourself using a tape measure (or piece of string and a marker, if you dont have a tape measure): Bust (fullest measure over the breasts) + 1: Over bust (measure above where the breasts begin to swell away from the chest; generally this is only a 1-2 difference) + 3/4: Over bust to waist (from approximately where the top of the chemise would be, to the waist) + 6-8: Hip (fullest measure about 8-9 below the waist) + 1:

(Write your measurements here to keep handy.)

Bust: Over bust: Over bust to waist: Hip:

On the pattern paper, draw a rectangle that is 1/4 the hip width by the over bust to waist measure. On one of the long lines, label this center front fold.

Determine how many pin tucks you want and multiply by their width. For example: if you want 5 pin tucks in the center, and each is approximately 1/8 (from stitching line to fold), this would give you a number of 5/8. Double this number (since the pin tucks are folded) for 1 1/4. Add this number to the bust measure, plus an additional 1/2 of ease (if you have a small bust measure, you may be able to do a bit less than 1/2). Mark the tucks you determined the width and number of in step 3 on the top edge of the pattern. Be sure to include not only the placement, but length. You can indicate these with a simple straight line and note about the width to stitch them; or mark as small, dotted rectangles the total width and length.

At the top, measure from the center front line 1/4 of the bust measure (this gives a little extra room for the bust, and should generally account for enough ease for most). Connect the top line to the bottom (hip width) line at the side.

Draw another rectangle as in step 2, only labeling one long line with center back fold. At the top, measure from the center back fold 1/4 of the bust measure plus 1/8. Connect the top line to the bottom (hip width) line at the side.

Add 1/2 seams to the sides and bottom of all pieces. Cut out pattern pieces, being sure to label with a grain line parallel to the center front and center back line, as well as the seam allowances and project name.

Cut out the pattern pieces in your fabric. Do not mark the front pin tucks. Set aside the back piece for now.

Begin with the pin tucks along the front section first. Lightly press a crease down the center front, creating a line. Measure 6 down the center front fold from the top; mark with a pin.

Stitch a scant 1/16 to 1/8 from the fold to the pin. Do not back tack at the beginning or end of stitching. This tends to make lightweight fabrics ripple. Leave a tail at the beginning and end, using 2-3 overhand knots to secure the threads. Clip threads close to stitching. Lightly press to set the stitches.

Measure 3/8 (or tuck spacing as indicated on your pattern) from the stitching line of the center front tuck. Mark with two pins, creating tiny pinholes (or leave in fabric for now).

Lightly press a crease down the pin-marked line parallel to the center front pin tuck. (Remove pins if applicable.) Measure 5 from top edge. Stitch a scant 1/16 to 1/8 from the fold to pin. Lightly press to set the stitches.

Repeat for 4 long pin tuck. Repeat 5 and 4 pin tucks for the other side of the center front tuck. Press. Press 3 of the pin tucks to the left and 2 to the right. Press center front crease out.

Take the back section, and match up right side seam of front and back, wrong sides together. Stitch 1/4 from edge. Press to set stitches and grade seam allowance. Now turn the seam to the inside, and press right sides together over the seam created. Stitch a scant 1/4 from edge, enclosing the first stitching line within the new seam (to create a French seam). Press to set stitches and press seam open.

Open the length of the chemise and begin pinning the lace trim to the top edge, centering the top edge of the chemise in the middle of the lace (so half is over top the fabric and half is off). Pin the length of lace in place along the entire top edge of the front and back pieces (or as is applicable with your lace design. If youre using a central lace motif and tape lace on the remainder of the top, do the tape lace first and then the motif).

With your sewing machine set to a narrow, small zigzag stitch, begin stitching along the bottom edge of lace (over the fabric) from the right side. Be sure to catch the lace and follow the contours of the lace, removing pins as you sew so as not to create rippling. Stitch along the entire top edge on the back and front; lightly pressing stitches to set after stitching.

Using a small, sharp pair of scissors (regular size fabric shears are not recommended), carefully cut away the top edge of excess fabric above the zigzag line, leaving a narrow seam allowance. If your fabric tends to ravel, apply a small amount of a seam finish (such as Fray Check, or even white glue) to the fabric only.

With wrong sides together of left side seam (the seam that was not sewn), stitch 1/4 from edge from the lace to bottom fabric edge. To prevent the lace from becoming tangled as it is sewn, place a piece of tissue paper (or other lightweight paper) underneath the lace to stitch over. This will provide a stable back for the feed to grip onto as the machine sews. After stitching, simply rip the paper away. Lightly press the seam to set stitches, and grade the seam allowance.

Now turn the seam to the inside, and press right sides together over the seam created. Stitch a scant 1/4 from edge (using the tissue paper under the lace), enclosing the first stitching line within the new seam (to create a French seam). Press to set stitches and press seam open.

Measure 4 out on either side of the center back, marking each point with a pin. Cut two pieces of ribbon, about 18-20 long. Fold one end of each under and press. With the folded under edge towards the chemise, pin the ribbon to the inside of the top back edge, about 3/8 from the fabric edge. Repeat with other piece of ribbon at the other back point.

Using a needle and thread, stitch the pinned edges of ribbon to the chemise, using back stitches for strength. You could also using a sewing machine, but the effect would be more noticeable.

Measure 4 1/2 out on either side of the center front top edge, marking each point with a pin. Try on the chemise top (being careful of the pins!), and determine the length of the ribbon straps by pinning them over the mark. Remove top and trim ribbon ends, leaving 3/8 extra for turning under. Turn under ends and repeat attachment as for back ribbon straps.

To hem the chemise blouse, you can do either a straight hem, turned up 1/4 and then 1/4 again (enclosing the raw edge in the fold), and stitched by machine. Or, for a fine finish typical of lingerie of this period, use a rolled hem (a fantastic tutorial for creating a rolled hem is here).