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MANUAL
Copyright by ICE FLYER LLC.
WARNING!
Risk of Injury, Death, Drowning! Any person using this equipment in any manner is personally responsible for learning the proper techniques involved, assumes all risks, and accepts full and complete responsibility for any and all damages or injury of any kind, including death, which may result from the use of this equipment.
Ice Flyer
BOAT STORAGE
Always store the ICE FLYER in a dry environment. Also, do not store where it will receive direct sunlight.
Speed risks
The ICE FLYER is capable of speeds in excess of 60 MPH. At these speeds, any type of collision can be very dangerous and reaction times are short.
2. Skew the steering completely to one side or the other as if to put the boat into a hard turn. 3. Run the steering skew strap around both pedal push rods and secure the strap with the camlock buckle. The intention here is to keep the steering skewed. Make sure the skew strap is removed for sailing! 4. Tip the boat over on its side so that the sail is touching the ice. If the steering is strapped skewed and the boat is tipped on its side, it is very unlikely that the boat will upright itself. However, in very gusty, direction changing wind, the boat may upright but the steering skew will keep the boat from going very far before tipping over again to a stable condition.
Release seat belt by pushing on the button. This may be easier without gloves on the hand.
The most important thing to do if you go into the water is obviously to get out of the water. Get help and the proper safety equipment to get the boat out of the water. Always carry hand claws to aid in getting out of the water and onto the ice. If the boat is completely in the water and it is windy, the sail may have to be detached at the mast bracket or it will impede getting the boat up-righted. The quick release camlock buckle on the mast brace strap makes this easy. Pulling the boat out of the water may require standing at the ice edge. Therefore, a dry suit with a life jacket and rope is essential. Once the boat is out of the water, the excess water in the body can be drained by tipping the rear of the boat up. It is simply best to be cautious and avoid going into the water!
Step 1. Thread the rear 3/16 rope under the rear beam and up through the eye strap. Step 2. Loop the front 5/32 rope over the load bearing post, and through the rear rope twice (making a loop around the load bearing post. Step 3. Tighten (very tight) the front rope making sure that the rear beam is pulled snug to the fuselage.
Step 4. Once the front rope is tight, loop it back around the load bearing post one more time Step 5. Loop the front 5/32 rope through the stretch cord and then back around the load bearing post so that it comes back over the top. Step 6. Pull on the front 5/32 rope so that the stretch cord is pulled up into the load bearing post. Then cleat the front 5/32 rope. The rear beam should be held in place very snug at this point with no gaps between the beam and the fuselage. 3. Attach the front steering assembly. The front chock should have a washer at the bottom of the chock shaft as shown in the figure to the left. Once the shaft of the front chock shaft is through the sleeve in the front spring board, insert the 3/16 locking pin in the hole at the top of the shaft.
The pedal assembly can be moved to different locations on the steering track by pulling out the two lock pins and pulling the steering assembly out of the present guides and into the new set of guides. The figure below shows the steering assembly with the pins UNLOCKED in the right side of the figure and LOCKED in the left side of the figure.. This UNLOCKED position should only be used if the pedal assembly is to be removed or moved. Make sure the pins are LOCKED for sailing and also inspect all components associated with steering regularly.
4. Place the nylon end of the tripod brace into the hole on the top of the body seat area as shown in figure to the left. Attach the three wire stays.
Make sure that the pin in the shroud adjuster goes completely through the other side of the shroud and is in the indentation slot. It is generally easier to attach the two rear stays first. Then attach the front stay while applying downward pressure to the boat near where the front stay attaches. 5 Attach the stay spring to the front stay as shown below. Use the loop to pull the spring into place. Do not leave the spring attached to the stay for long periods of time when the boat is not being sailed.
6. Attach the three runners. This requires two 9/16 wrenches. The bolts should be just snug enough to keep the blade from rotating when the beam is lifted (but still allow rotation if forced). The reason for this is that if the blade can rotate, it is more likely to drop into larger holes in the ice.
7. Sheet rope Installation: There are two rope assemblies. The main and secondary sheet lines are the two attached long ropes. The sheet adjuster is the assembly which has pulleys attached to either end. The main sheet rope is the smaller diameter of the two ropes which are attached together. The larger diameter rope is the secondary sheet rope. One end of the secondary sheet rope attaches to the center of the main sheet rope.
Start the sheet set up process by running the free end of the secondary sheet rope through the two large pulleys at the boat rear (as shown to the left). Run the secondary sheet through the tube in the main fiberglass body to the front cockpit section and continue threading though the front guide pulley and then to the front ratchet pulley. Make sure the ratchet clicks when the sheet rope is pulled on by the skipper and locks when pulled on by the sail.
Run the two ends of the main sheet rope to the ends of the rear beam. Make sure the ropes go THROUGH the two guide loops on the rear of the fiberglass body as shown in the figure below.
Thread each side of the main sheet though the pulley at the end of the rear plank, through the pulley at the end of the sheet adjuster rope and finally through the hole at the back of the rear beam. Be careful to thread this as shown below.
Finally, tie a knot at the end of the sheet rope. The sheet rope should be able to rotate in the hole. The knot should be tied in the exact same spot on both ends of the beam as this will aid sail alignment in a later step.
8. You are now ready to attach the sail. Completely rig the windsurfing sail including sliding the mast in the sail mast sleeve, assembling the mast base and applying a generous amount of downhaul and assembling the boom. Rig a sail about the same size as if you were going windsurfing (see appendix 1). Place the Ice Flyer so that it is facing directly into the wind. Once the sail is completely rigged, install it on the Ice Flyer. The mast interface goal post can be permanently installed on the windsurfing mast base as shown below:
Begin by placing the sail mast base in the mast cradle on the ice flyer. Tip the sail forward to interface the mast brace. The boom should be adjusted high in the sail sleeve opening so that it is above the nylon portion of the mast helper brace.
Attach the mast to the mast brace. Use of a boom / mast protector is recommended when sailing in severe conditions. On the Ice Flyer, use the mast protector under the nylon mast brace (rather than the boom) as this is where the stress is.
Tie the mast to the boat using a portion of the downhaul rope so that the mast/base cannot lift out of the cradle as shown in the next figure.
Another trick for attaching the sail: If it is windy, the following trick may make it easier to get the sail on the boat: the boat should be facing directly into the wind. Tip the boat on its side and then connect the sail mast base to the Ice Flyer mast attachment. Either attach the mast brace strap as shown above and upright the boat or simply upright both the boat and sail at the same time and attach the mast with the boat in the upright position.
Run the sheet adjuster rope around the windsurfing boom end as shown above. The sheet adjuster should be tied to the boom end and not the sail. Pull on the sheet adjuster rope so that it puts several pounds of downward force on the boom end while keeping the center strap exactly at the end of the loop as shown in the above figure to the left. Then wrap the sheet adjuster rope around the boom end (on both sides of the sail outhaul rope) as shown in the figure to the upper right.
Make sure the sheet adjuster rope is centered on the boom by insuring that the strap (shown in the figure above) is exactly at the end of the loop. Pull down with 3 or 4 pounds of force and loop the sheet adjuster rope around the end of the boom several times to insure that it both stays at the center of the boom end and also wont come loose.
Getting going
Dont sail in high or gusty wind your first time out. Use an experienced ICE FLYER pilot to guide you through the experience. The first thing which should be done is to check that everything is rigged correctly. A checklist is: Is everything mechanically sound - particularly the mast brace tripod-roll bar and the steering assembly? Is the rear beam correctly seated and the two attachment straps tightly secured? Are both locking pins of the pedal assembly completely in and locked into the aluminum bar track? Are the steering push rod adjustment pins fully popped out securely fixing the rod lengths? Is the sheet loop line sufficiently tight (snug) at the boom end of the sail? Are you carrying hand held ice hooks? Have you practiced getting out of the seat restraint with gloves on? Insure that the sheet lines are rigged correctly and that the secondary sheet line doesnt catch on anything during sail transitions.
Have a friend hold the boat while you get in and secure the seat restraint and check the sheeting mechanism. Start out on a broad reach.
In General...
The ICE FLYER is very easy to sail. Turn by pushing on the foot pedals. It turns similar to if you had your feet on the handle bars of a bicycle. Pull on the sheet rope to go faster, let off on the sheet rope to go slower. In general, sail in a direction perpendicular to the direction the wind is blowing (although the boat is capable of sailing significantly up or down wind).
Stopping
Stopping is accomplished by unsheeting the sail, heading into the wind so that the sail provides no power and when the boat speed is under 10 mph, using your feet over the sides of the boat to finally stop. Traction devices worn over the shoes make stopping easier and also make walking on the ice safer. The distance to stop varies widely depending on wind, ice and speed so anticipate stopping and give yourself plenty of room.
more exciting because of the speed involved and the G force during the turn. Hand holds are molded into the bottom of the boat on both sides. Use these during a turn. Either a tack or jib is easy to do and mostly involves simply steering the boat. In any case, the sail should be unsheeted during the turn to accommodate for the loss of speed when coming out of the turn. If the sail is not unsheeted, there is a risk of a windward rail lifting because of too much sheet in the lower apparent wind. If the rail does lift, simply let out on the sheet. Also, having less sheet when going slower actually improves on the acceleration of the ice boat.
In light conditions, use less outhaul, in windier conditions, use more outhaul. The best option is to implement an adjustable outhaul see the ICE FLYER web site under The Reading Room.
Maintenance
Sharpen blades when rear end begins to spin out or front doesnt turn as sharp Check all components of steering for wear or fatigue Re-paint the steel components of the steering assembly when needed. Lubricate the moving components of the steering assembly. Use bicycle grease or equivalent for the pedals and pins. Use WD-40 for the steering push rods. Check all components of the mast brace tripod, wire stays and quick connects for wear or fatigue. Replace any component, which shows signs of wear. Check sheeting ropes and system to insure that the sheet ropes are not frayed or damaged.
Caution - if the sheet ropes are ever replaced, use rope with equivalent construction and the following dimensions: * secondary sheet 12 foot 10 inches length of 8mm (5/16) (this is the sheet rope the skipper holds on to) * main sheet rope 18 foot of 4 - 5 mm (3/16) VLS Pelican boat rope * Sleeve in 11/16 climbers tape 4 inch in length * adjuster sheet rope - 14 foot of 4 or 5 mm (3/16) Scratches in the fiberglass can normally be removed by sanding with 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper and then using rubbing compound with a soft cotton rag You may want to apply a high quality marine varnish such as Z Spar Captains Varnish to the fiberglass covered wood beams (do not apply this to the fiberglass main body). Check EVERYTHING if the boat has tipped over in high wind!