The Design and Technical Development Workshop Under Ahvy

THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY
CONTENTS

Acknowledgement Introduction About O/o Development Commissioner (Handicrafts)
Designers View
Planning for new design development Stages of the Workshop Methodology adopted Venue of the workshop Initial Sketches of the Prototype Photographs of the final prototype List of prototypes Performance cum achievement report New elements introduced Marketing Possibilities Conclusion Designers Profile
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Lots of effort has gone into making of this project. I would like to give my sincere thanks to all those who helped in the completion of this Design & Technical Development Workshop on Ari and Staple Embroidery craft. Primarily, I would like to thank related officers of the O/o The DC Handicraft, Ministry of Textile, who in their tenure have helped me constantly. I would also thank to SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY IC LTD. NOWPORA for giving me this opportunity. Last but not the least, I take privilege to thank all my artisans/craft persons at Mazhama, who have done such a wonderful job & made my vision into reality.
INTRODUCTION
The government is making continued effort to provide equitable growth opportunities for women, which is increasingly being reflected among others in increased participation by women in local government and decision-making process, promotion of income generation activities and thrift and credit self help groups (SHGs) for women. To keep up with the competitions and to abreast them with the latest of designs and trends and marketing skills, the patrons organize Design & Technical Development Workshops/Integrated Design & Technology Development Projects under the capable professional guidance of experts from institutions like NIFT and NID. During these design workshops, the artisans are helped to reinvent themselves as per the current trends to make them more commercially viable and then they are provided with the promotional platforms like exhibition and craft bazaars etc. which are organized by the Govt. along with the NGOs, throughout the country besides the other commercial links. The 15 (fifteen) days Design & Technical Development Workshop in Ari Staple Embroidery craft, sponsored by the O/o the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, is one such step in this direction. The programme was organized by Sukhnag Ari Staple Embroidery I C Ltd., Nowpora working for the promotion of the art & culture of the society and the overall upliftment of the underprivileged. A detailed survey of the area was made to access the existing designs in Ari and Sozni Embroidery craft, the available materials, technical inputs, production process and marketability of product etc. for the development of new designs, which can be easily marketed.
THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY In this modern arena, life style has been changed completely and accordingly, there has been a change in colour and design sense. It has become artistic & attractive. This artistic change in handicraft items is seen anywhere. Physical & mental change takes place during young age. During that period individual selects dress and accessories according to choice of colors, patterns etc., not according to the family traditions. From this point of view and to get a good export order and marketable product, it was necessary to have a series of product, which will suit to the contemporary styles of living. This necessitates designers intervention for finding a new solution to the traditional craft skills in terms of design, product modification and aesthetics for which, the programme was proposed.
ABOUT O/o DEVELOPMENT COMMISSIONER (H)

The Handicrafts Sector is able to provide substantial direct employment to the artisans and others engaged in the trade and employment to many input industries in recognition of the above facts, the Government of India set-up an autonomous All India Handicrafts Board in 1952. The promotion of handicrafts industries is the primary responsibilities of State Governments. However, the Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) has been implementing various departmental schemes at the central level to supplement states activities in the handicrafts sector besides the new thrust areas. The Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) functions under Ministry of Textiles for promotion and exports of handicrafts. The office is headed by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts). It advices the Government of India on matters relating to the Development and Exports of Handicrafts and assists the
THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY State Government in Planning and Executing Development Schemes for handicrafts. Different schemes of Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) are as follows: Babasahib Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojna (AHVY). Human Resource Development Scheme. Marketing Support & Services. Research & Development. Export Promotion. Credit Guarantee Scheme. Bima Yojna for Handicraft artisans. Mega clusters (Moradabad & Narasapur). Work shed for Handicraft artisans. Artisan Credit Cards.
DESIGNERS VIEW
A detailed survey of the area was made to access the existing Hand Embroidery craft, the available materials, technical inputs, production process and marketability of product etc. for the development of new designs, which can easily, marketed. The base line survey got done before starting the design workshop keeping certain things in the mind such as the present condition of craft and its practitioners, to know the basic requirement, the problem and its solutions and last but not the least for the scope & possibilities of the crafts and its practitioners. How one can get them in the line of current world of competition. What are their needs and wants, required facilities, and about their habits. I started the work by keeping basic aspects of the development like locating the active area i.e. geographically where the craft stands, which level of skills craftsperson have, basic difficulties lies around the area so that it could easy to reach and rectify the problem. The result reveals heartening facts. No doubt, they are skilled and deserve every right to get all the recognition, others enjoying. .
THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY The crafts persons practicing the art for the household needs and for some small business point. There products of concerned and the designs were of limited stock, as they do not have exposure to the competition. The ultimate story is that is that by proper guidance regarding the designs, ability to judge the trend and requirement of the market, technical inputs, providing proper marketing network, refinement of taste and choices to be built up among the artisans to enable them to put an overall performance on the craft to ensure end users satisfaction.
The crafts persons at Mazhama (J&K) practicing the craft were too lucky compare to others, as the area of concerned was geographically gifted place and easy access to connect internationally & domestic market itself The crafts persons were talented and practicing it as earning from this plays a major part for their bread & butter. The crafts persons practicing, it just for the shake of their survival not for their growth and business. There products of concerned and the designs were limited, as they dont have exposure to the outer world of competition. They are the highly skilled but raw, easily can be mould into any shape of desire. It can be underlined as mention below
Practiced by females of the family They lack innovation Lack the Knowledge of trend due to market exposures Limited product range and designs They do not know the techniques to cure, processing & finishing They dont have the proper marketing channel & costing method They are not exploring the craft due to lack of options. The ultimate story is that is that by proper guidance regarding the designs, ability to judge the
trend and requirement of the market, technical inputs, providing proper marketing network, refinement of taste and choices could be built up among the artisans, to enable them to put an overall performance on the crafts to ensure end users satisfaction.
PLANNING FOR NEW DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
Presently there is not any certain process that they follow as they doing nothing properly in planned way. They were just doing it on daily basis as discussed earlier. There is a limited variation in design and products the just making it as their habit. To achieve something fruitful result, planning is the must and it should be based on certain facts
Products- Products need to develop that they can relate their requirement, Costing- As its the most important of the development and survival of any
usages, and above all the capability in their society they were lagging at.
craft, business or species on earth that better and adoptable as per the situation can only deserve to survive in the competitive world. Increasing productivity, product and design development, technological up gradation for capacity
THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY building, quality control measures with well defined specifications, effective packaging, and networking through IT.
Raw material- It should be taken care that those raw materials should be in
used which are easily available at particular place to develop the prototypes. So that in coming future the craftsperson can easily abler to get them
Marketing- Assimilation of market intelligence, product identification as
per market segmentation, appropriate market and product mix, building up of business enterprises, relationship management of assisting market outlets, test marketing through financial exhibitions/fairs, effective publicity through appropriate media mix.
Financial- Pooling of economic resource (within through thrift and credit

and external through financial institutions and funding organizations). According to above mention facts:
I selected &introduced the designs those are relevant with their identification Introduced new techniques so that raw materials can be utilized more without
on world map i.e. Life style/office accessories, utility items etc.
wasting, which they can incorporate in their practice to save the time and increase their quality and production without altering their craft and their basic needs.
Keeping the traditional value in mind I selected the product range and
techniques got little altered from the traditional one as little change can be acceptable and they get that easily but drastic change can spoil the inte rest.
STAGES OF THE WORKSHOP
THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY The design workshop for 15 days duration was planned with various factors of design development like survey and documentation, Problem analysis, Training to artisans, Introduction of new technique and tools, development of new prototypes and marketing linkage of the prototypes developed. It is here now how the whole process of project covered in various stages:
1.
In its first stage a market survey and survey about the cluster of
artisans at Mazhama was covered on various parameters.

2.
In the second stages the artisans were trained on various as pacts of
the craft and knowledge provided about overseas market.
Artisans
busy
in
watching
sketches
and
to
understand and learn about actual design.

3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3.
Further artisans were provided the sketches as per the specialization of the artisans. The artisans were properly explained about the design concepts given in sketches.
4.
Development of prototype Here it begun the actual progress with
development of prototypes. Initially a trial of each product was made and the artisans were explained about the finer points and then actual prototype was prepared.
5.
Training to artisans Artisans was trained on various other aspects of
Hand Embroidery work.

6.
Hand Embroidery Market Linkage A proper market linkage program
was undertaken during the final stages of project and even after formal closing ceremony of the project.
Day By Day Progress of the Workshop First Phase 2012) (2nd to 4th July
Workshop get inaugurated,
than a brief introduction regarding the purpose of the workshop and whole planning regarding the work discussed. After inaugural speech to understand the skills level of craft women , paper & fabric swatches distributed to the women to know their knowledge and skill about the craft. Then design of six set of the prototypes were taught & imprisoned on respective base material on which prototypes suppose to get developed with all the details .Placement of the designs on base material got done and were distributed among them.. Work started on respective prototypes at the same time. Second Phase (5th to 8th July. 2012) One set of the few prototypes i.e. ladies suits, stole, shawl etc. got completed. At the end of this phase other set of designs of prototypes were got traced onto the respective base material.
Third Phase (9th to 14th July 2012)
THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY In this phase some completed. small Rest of prototypes were got designs some heavy work prototypes were targeted. At the end of this phase due to fine and heavy work as well as short time period, fifteen set of sample got finished. Fourth Phase (15th to 16th July 2012 ) All the prototypes developed were finished that means thread cutting, hemming washing & stitching get done. At concluding day CTO A.M Malik and TAC A.Chasti from Office of the Marketing & Service Extn. Center Srinagar visit the workshop and appreciate designer and artisans efforts.
Product Development:
The artisans were provided the sketches on paper with proper details of work technique and colour scheme etc. The artisans were also explained about the concept of each prototype to be developed. The sketches were divided among the artisans while understanding the creativity level of each artisan. Basic raw material i.e. the Different types of yarns was arranged for the workshop in different colour combination. Fabric: lk. Cotton, wool stole and shawl, Crepe sari as base Threads: Woolen Embroidery: With 1-ply or 2-ply woolen yarn, this type of embroidery is worked on thick cotton dosooti fabric. Other background fabrics embroidered this way include organza, velvet, jute and linen. It is always done using a large crochet. Cotton Embroidery: Staple cotton embroidery work is found on suede bags and purses, woolen shawls, jackets, silk sarees, cotton, silk and woolen salwar kameez, kurtis and other apparel. It is done using a medium crochet or small crochet. A finer staple cotton thread is used in needlepoint embroidery. Silver and gold embroidery: Locally called tilla, this type of embroidery work is found on ladies cloaks (pheron), shawls and salwar kameez. It is done in needlepoint. material.
THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY Tools In Kashmir colorful embroidery work done on all kinds of apparel and fabrics Shawls, Jackets, Saris, etc. There are many different types of embroideries employed by Kashmiri artisans. These are based on: (i) Type of the embroidery tool: 1. Crochet embroidery (locally Aari): This is futher of 3 types a) Small crochet: Fine cotton thread is used for embroidery work with this type of crochet. Mostly used for embroidery work on suede leather items like bags, purses and jackets. b) Medium crochet: This type of crochet uses the same cotton thread as above. It is used for embroidery on woolen and silk jackets, shawls, sarees, salwar kameez and other apparel. c) Large crochet: Also called the Crewel crochet, this type of crochet uses woolen or art-silk thread for embroidery. It is used for crewel embroidery work on cotton, organza, velvet, linen and jute. 2. Needlepoint embroidery (locally Sozni): Done using a fine needle, sozni is worked on Pashmina shawls, woolen shawls, jackets, salwar kameez and sarees. Work done on pashminas is comparatively much finer (close stitches) than other fabrics (cotton, silk and wool ).
METHODOLOGY ADOPTED TO DEVELOP PROTOTYPES

A market survey is undertaken to look into whether the products made by them have proper market or not and how it can be improved. How it can be made into international market with the improvement of
certain things. Ultimately the focus should be on to design some products of international standard in terms of finish, pricing etc. The new designed products should find buyers for which it has been planned. This will improve the quality of life for the artisans. As per the survey, report reveals that what the major factors were playing around the area it got needed different strategy to follow. First of all they were need to convince about the market and its changing nature as per the time, required adaptation on that basis methodology adopted were as folowsIdentifying there area of interest and specialization i.e. technique wise. Different sources introduced to get the new design and ideas. Let them taught the planning process and its importance. Introduce them to concept development process. Introduced them with modern tools and designs and different product options. Different techniques to utilize the raw material to maximum extents. Different finishing and packaging techniques. Finally, the method to take care of the products.
VENUE OF THE WORKSHOP

2nd of July 2012 to 16th of July 2012 Total 15 (fifteen) days at
Mazhama
The clusters in the area have been engaged with handicraft activity and have been producing export quality goods and have been sincerely going on with this vocation. Technical guidance were to been offered. The craftsmen are suffering from difficulties of raw materials and being the victims of middleman ship. The area has less population and new generation is getting away from the craft because of proper guidance about the craft and its growing future.
Product Name: SUIT Product Code: ARI/SUKHNAG/01-2012
Sl No : 01 SALWAR
Sl No : Product Name: SALWAR SUIT
02 Product Code: ARI/SUKHNAG/02-2012
Sl No : 03 Product Name: SALWAR SUIT Product Code: 2012
ARI/SUKHNAG/03-
Sl No : 04 Product Name: SALWAR SUIT Product Code: ARI/SUKHNAG/04-2012
Sl No : 07 Product Name: SALWAR SUIT Product Code: SOZNI/SUKHNAG/07-2012
Sl No : 08 Product Name: JACKET Product Code: ARI/SUKHNAG/08-2012
Sl No : 11 Product Name: STOLE Product Code: SOZNI/SUKHNAG/11-2012
Sl No : Product Product 2012
12 Name: STOLE Code: SOZNI/SUKHNAG/12-
Sl No : 13 Product Name: CUSHION COVER Product Code: ARI/SUKHNAG/13-2012
Sl No : 14 Product Name: Product Code:
CUSHION COVER ARI/SUKHNAG/14-2012
Sl No :
15
Product Name: CUSHION COVER Product Code: ARI/SUKHNAG/15-2012
List of Prototype Developed at Design and Technical Development Workshop in Ari Staple Embroidery Craft At Mazhama Dist. Baramula (J&K) From Date 2th to 16rd July 2012 Organized by Sukhnag Ari Staple Embroidery I C Ltd Nowpora, Dist. Baramula (J&K)
Sl
Product Name
Product Code
Size
or Price
Product
THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY no . 01 Salwar Suit 02 Salwar Suit 03 Salwar Suit 04 Salwar Suit 05 Salwar Suit 06 Salwar Suit 07 Salwar Suit 08 Jacket Ari /Sukhnag/ 01-2012 Ari /Sukhnag/ 02-2012 Ari /Sukhnag/ 03-2012 Ari /Sukhnag/ 04-2012 Ari /Sukhnag/ 05-2012 Ari /Sukhnag/ 06-2012 Sozni /Sukhnag/ 07-2012 Ari /Sukhnag/ 08-2012 Material Consumed 4.5mtrs Fabric 4.5mtrs Fabric 4.5mtrs Fabric 4.5mtrs Fabric 4.5mtrs Fabric 4.5mtrs Fabric 4.5mtrs Fabric 22 x 18 1350/1250/1350/1350/1150/1350/1500/900/Developed 02 02 02 02 02 02 02 02
09 Salwar Suit 10 Salwar Suit 11 Stole
Ari /Sukhnag/ 09-2012 Ari /Sukhnag/ 10-2012 Sozni/Sukhnag/ 11-2012
4.5mtrs Fabric 4.5mtrs Fabric 88 x 26
1300/1350/1150/-
02 02 02
12 Stole
Sozni /Sukhnag/ 12-2012
88 x 24
1150/-
02
13 Cushion Cover 14 Cushion Cover 15 Cushion Cover
Ari /Sukhnag/ 13-2012 Ari /Sukhnag/ 13-2012 Ari /Sukhnag/ 13-2012
18 x 18 18 x 18 18 x 18
450/450/450/-
02 02 02
ACHIEVEMENT CUM PERFORMANCE REPORT

On commencement of the workshop, the trainees were introduced with
Existence of the craft and its importance towards its heritage culture. Importance of colors in craft. Importance of the planning before starting the work. Importance of the design and their use. To embellish 1them with the modern look. Methods of transferring a design. Presentation and care of the craft. Tools and material used. Craft and its possibilities. How to adopt as per the market requirements. To utilize raw material to maximum extent by minimizing the wastage. Under the guidance on day-to-day basic, the trainees learnt designing, various techniques to translate the design as per desire and finishing part of prototypes development. As the workshop processed, the trainees were also given practical training to implementation of various designs & techniques along with the knowledge about pre and post production planning and strategy.
NEW ELEMENTS INTRODUCED

The 15 (fifteen) days Design & Technical Development Workshop with the craft persons/artisans of SUKHNAG was held at Mazhama. The design workshop came to be very successful. All the artisans learned a lot during the workshop. The designer introduced them with various techniques and tools for hand embroidery craft. The new elements which the designer introduced during the 15 days Design & Technical Development Workshop are as follows:
THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY Importance of different tools that can be used by the artisans during the process of making hand embroidery craft Different techniques of hand embroidery craft were introduced. Artisans use to make hand embroidery craft with their old technique. Designer helped them to do weave and design with some new techniques for easy and faster work. Importance of the different designs and their practical use in day-to-day life. Introduction with different types of embellishment materials used in hand embroidery craft Different methods were introduced for transferring a design from graph on to the hand embroidery craft Introduction to the marketing possibilities of the products made by the artisans. Knowledge about the fashion forecast which is necessary for the export market. To utilize raw material to maximum extent by minimizing the wastage. Introduction about the colour forecast according to the market requirement, especially for the export market
SUGGESTIONS
As a designer, I want to convey the message that to promoting Indian handicrafts by developing handicrafts artisan cluster and cells into professionally managed and self-reliant community enterprises on the principles of affective member participation and mutual co-operation. The thrust of the scheme is on a projected need based integrated approach for craft persons leading their empowerment. The main objective should be asMake empower artisans by making the active entrepreneurs cum primary stake holders in the process of development and bringing them to a visible platform for easy access to domestic & overseas markets. Upgrade artisans skill through appropriate design and technology intervention to enable them to use quality raw material, tools and equipment to produce value-added items. Provided adequate infrastructure support for improved quality and productivity and to enable artisans access to a larger market segment, both domestic and international.
THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY Ensure effective collective participation of all members involved in production and marketing process for optimal growth in human resource, production, and income. Create centers of excellence (based on the philosophy of collective enterprises) with well integrated linkages At last, I want to wish the artisans very all the best of luck for their future.
CONCLUSION The 15 (fifteen) days Design & Technical Development Workshop with the artisans of SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY I C LTD. NOWPORA has been an insightful process. The work that has emerged, through the collective effort of the crafts women, NGO team and the Designer, reveals the great potentials that the traditional hand embroidery craft practices by the artisans. The products created by the crafts person, supposedly low skilled, are neat and well executed and have made us rethink about their potential. It is heartening to see that the entire process, from the conception of the designs, converting those designs into hand embroidery craft products and finishing the product, has been highly participatory one, and everybody enjoyed every moments of it.
R s um
Tripti sing h 41, surbhivihar Roopsagr road Udaipur (Ra j) Phone : 9950848233 Mail at singh_tripti@rocketmail.com
Empanelled Designer with The O/o Developm ent Comm issioner (Handicraft), Ministry of Textile, New Delhi Empanelled with Rajsthan Dastkar Protshan Sansthan, Jaipur
Qua lifica tio n Diploma in Textile Design 2000-03 FromGovt. Wom ens Polytechnic Colleg e, Udaipur
Gra dua tion B.Com FromMohanla l Sukha dia University, Udaipur Currentlyeng a g edin Visiting Facultyfor Design coursesfor diploma and undergraduate level. Conducting training programm es for rural artisans. Developingdesign for various Ngos in craft sector Workexp erience: Worked as a guest faculty at Govt. Womens Polytechnic Colleg e uda ipur (Raj) Worked as a fashion and cultural reporter with Dainik Bha skar Uaipur Design Developm ent in various craft with O/o The Developm ent Com missioner (Handicraft)

Currently engaged in Visiting Faculty for Design courses for diploma and undergraduate level. Conducting training programmes for rural artisans. Developing design for various Ngos in craft sector Work experience: Worked as a guest faculty at Govt. Womens Polytechnic College udaipur (Raj) Worked as a fashion and cultural reporter with Dainik Bhaskar Uaipur Design Development in various craft with O/o The Development Commissioner (Handicraft)
Projects Designed a range of products with patch and appliqu craft Developed products range of home furnishing and apparels in Phulkari craft Developed different products with various Ngos in Hand Embroidery A range of home furnishings and bags was designed, prototypes were printed and dyed with natural dyes. Designed a coordinated collection of home furnishings, office table accessories using different printing techniques.dyes and material were explored for achieving different looks. Designed a wall of restaurant with papier-mch and mirror work Discotheque and a furniture designed with paper collage.
Skills Acquired A thorough understanding of the hand block printing trough hands on experience in field. Also having experience of screen printing. Fabric construction techniques. Basic knowledge of embroidery stitches. Basic knowledge of Coral Draw and Photoshop.

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THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY

Acknowledgement Introduction About O/o Development Commissioner (Handicrafts)