The Digging Fork
A Davis Garden Newsletter
March – April 2007
March
Planting Cool season vegetables:
seed potatoes
see
Warm season annuals: many
Plant notes
Perennials: almost
everything, but especially
citrus trees and frost
tender plants
Warm season bulbs: many
Seeding Cool season vegetables:
beets, carrots, leeks,
see
Swiss chard, parsnips,
Plant notes
green onions, radishes
Warm season vegetables:
beans (dry, snap)
Warm season annuals: many
Fertilize Citrus with citrus fertilizer.
(Fruit-bearing trees if not
fertilized in Feb. Don’t
fertilize frost damaged
trees)
Roses, flowers and lawns
when growth starts
Fruit trees with 1st irrigation
Snail, slugs and earwig
Pest & damage –use baits or traps.
Disease Aphids. Can spray off with
water and watch for lady
Control beetle & parasitic wasps
Citrus and other evergreen
shrubs sprayed with
horticulture oil to control
scale and insects eggs.
Prepare beds for planting –
Tasks don’t dig soils that are
too wet. A handful of soil
should crumble
Divide & replant perennials
Prune evergreen shrubs
when new growth appears
Some frost damaged plants
will be ready to prune –
watch for new growth
Weed control continues
Water May need to start watering.
Did you check sprinklers
and drip systems?
Calendar layout thanks to Lyle Wilen
Cast-iron plant with rarely seen red flowers
April
Warm season vegetables:
best to wait until mid April to
early May to plant:
basil, eggplant, peppers,
tomatillo, tomato
Perennials: most
Warm season bulbs: many
Warm season annuals: many
Warm season vegetables
best to wait until mid April to
plant most seeds:
beans (dry, snap, lima),
corn (and popcorn),
cucumber, gourds, okra,
melons, peanuts, summer
and winter squash,
soybeans, watermelon
Warm season annuals: many
Snail, slugs and earwig
damage –use baits or traps.
Aphids. Can spray off with
water and watch for lady
beetles & parasitic wasps
Prepare beds for planting.
(see note in March)
Divide & replant perennials
Weed control continues
Prune deciduous shrubs and
vines after they flower.
Clean up the vegetable and
flower beds to make room
for warm season plants.
More frost damaged plants
will be ready to prune –
watch for new growth
Thin fruit trees, except
cherries
Water as needed.
Garden in early spring. Calendulas, veronica, blue fescue and sedum.
Spring Planting
This is a crazy but exciting time of year. The cool
season plants are starting to bloom and the garden is
changing weekly. For many of us, our thoughts are on
getting those tomatoes in. Relax, and enjoy the spring!
Warm season plants really do want warm weather
which comes to Davis around mid April or even into
May, when the air temperatures are consistently in the
70s and soil temperatures are warming.
Spring is a good time to plant perennials, especially
those that are frost sensitive and should not be planted
in the fall.
Some warm season annuals are easy to start by
seeding directly into the ground. Examples are
marigold, cosmos, zinnia and sunflower. Although
many of these are also available as transplants, it is
cheaper to start them by direct seeding, however bloom
can be delayed. One favorite annual that Patricia
planted many, many years ago is what her father called
knotweed. It has been reseeding each spring since --
the seedlings are distinctive with red stems. It is now
easy to find seeds for this pink flowered annual, also
called kiss-me-over-the-garden-gate. The plant grows
tall, to over 6 feet, and the flowers are good for cutting
if you remove the leaves.
Many bulbs are planted in the spring for summer
and fall bloom. These include dahlias, gladiolus,
Peruvian daffodils and calla. Peruvian daffodils like
sun and will bloom in July with white or light yellow
flowers. They are a great cut flower.
A great plant for shade is the cast-iron plant. It is
grown for the foliage but actually has flowers that were
found accidentally when the plant was being dug to
share with a friend. The red flowers are only about 2
inches tall and lost in the 2 to 3 foot tall leaves.
Generally only the dead leaves are removed from this
evergreen plant, but one of Patricia’s plants was cut to
the ground last fall and the leaves haven’t emerged yet,
allowing us to see all the flowers. Cast-iron plant is
wonderful when planted with spider plant, sword fern
and pig squeak for contrasting foliage in shade.
 Building and Maintaining Healthy Soil
Davis soil has a bad reputation. When our clay soil
is wet, it sticks to shoes and can’t be easily worked --
when dry, it is very hard and cracks form on the
surface. Unfortunately, there is a very small window
when the soil is neither too wet or too dry and is
perfect for digging and planting. The good news is that
clay soils are full of nutrients plants need and with a
little effort, the structure of clay soil can be improved.
Since the clay particles are so very, very tiny, they are
easily compacted and can hold onto water. This
creates little room for the air that plant roots need. The
goal is to restructure the clay particles into larger
aggregates or granules, allowing water to drain faster
and providing space for air. Cultivation and the
addition of organic matter are two ways to improve
clay soil.
Cultivation. Digging clay soils when too wet will
undo all the efforts of aggregating the soil. Soil is
ready to dig when a handful will crumble when
squeezed together and not form a clay ball. A digging
fork (not a pitch fork) is our preferred digging tool. If
the soil is very compacted, it is important to insert the
tines only a couple inches into the soil and rock the
handle toward your body. Then insert the tines a bit
deeper and repeat until the soil is loosened about a foot
deep. Don’t turn the soil over, as there is no need and
it is more work. Breaking up clods some is fine but
usually not necessary of you later mulch the bed.
Gently dig between plants already in the bed.
A shovel could be used to cultivate, but it can leave
sheared, compacted areas that are difficult for roots to
--continued in next column –
Digging with a digging fork
Marlene & Patricia’s Garden Workshops
Workshops are held in Patricia’s one acre country garden in Davis.
There is time to explore and ask lots of questions.
Cost of workshop $25. If you bring a friend or spouse the cost is
$20 per person. Class size is limited.
Vegetables for Warm Season
Saturday, March 10 11:00 am -2:30 pm
Back up date due to rain – Saturday, March 17
Spring Garden Cleanup and Planting
Saturday, May 19 11:00 am – 2:30 pm
Problems, problems, problems!! (weeds, pests, fertilizer,
plant spacing, timing of planting, healthy soil, water, etc.)
June – date TBA
To register for workshops:
Call Marlene (530) 400-7010 or Patricia (530) 753-0607
or email TheDiggingFork@gmail.com
2
penetrate. A digging fork leaves an irregular transition
from the dug to undug soil. Rototillers rarely cultivate
as deeply as a digging fork and it is easy to pulverize
the soil with too many passes.
Adding organic matter. Organic matter incorporated
into the soil as an amendment will immediately help to
keep the clay particles separate. The best organic
material to add to soil is humus/compost as it helps to
organically bind the clay particles into larger units. As
microorganisms decompose organic material into
humus/compost, they use nitrogen. Adding organic
materials that still need to decompose will result in a
short term loss of available nitrogen for the plants,
requiring the addition of supplemental nitrogen.
Organic materials applied as a mulch on top of the soil
will also improve the soil structure but at a slower rate.
Mulch has many other benefits that will be discussed in
the next newsletter. The organic component of the soil
is constantly changing and will decrease over time if
organic materials are not added on a regular basis.
Sand is NOT a good soil amendment to add to clay
soils as prohibitively large quantities (45% by volume)
would be needed to improve soil structure. Sand added
in smaller quantities reacts with the clay particles to
produce something similar to cement.
Davis soils are somewhat alkaline. This, together
with our water that is high in calcium, makes growing
acid loving plants such as camellias, azaleas, and
hydrangeas difficult. Gardening friends in
neighboring cities have no problem growing these
plants. The addition of organic matter and soil sulfur
will help to make our soil a bit more acid, but acid
loving plants are still challenging to grow.
More local classes and workshops
Woodland Community College Weekend classes:
Gardening: Controlling Yard Pests March 9-10
Gardening: Irrigation March 30-31
Gardening: The Organic Way April 6-7
Classes meet Friday evenings and Saturday mornings.
For information & cost: www.yccd.edu or (530) 661-5700
Master Gardener Workshops:
Spring into Gardening Fair at Woodland College
March 3 Registration begins at 8 am $5 fee
Gardening with Children (free) April 15, 1–2:30 pm
Gardening with Herbs (free) April 28 1-2:30 pm
Information for fair and workshop (530) 666-8143
UCD Project Compost Workshops:
Backyard Composting March 31, 11 am–1 pm
For information: (530) 754-8227
projectcompost@ucdavis.edu
Davis Backyard and Worm Composting Classes:
Free classes at the Community Gardens on Fifth St.
March 3 or April 23 1 – 2 pm
To register -- call Public Works Dept. 757-5686
Davis Central Park Gardens
The gardens are being renovated! See the web site for plans,
workshops and events. http://www.centralparkgardens.org

Striking yellow aphids Parasitized aphids -- the hole is
where parasitic wasp emerged
Photos by Jeff Austin (thanks for sharing!)
Pests
Spring brings succulent new growth. But along
with this new growth comes the pests that feast on it.
Two of the most problematic are snail and slugs which
can chomp down new seedlings before a gardener can
even witness their emergence!! One control is to
simply pick them off as the sun rises or sets. Snails
and slugs however, can be controlled in a relatively
safe way by using iron phosphate commonly found
under the brand name ‘Sluggo’. Unlike the
metaldehydes, iron phosphate is safe to use around
wildlife. However, don’t expect to find the empty
shells of the snails the next morning. Once they
consume the iron phosphate, they slime away to die
somewhere else. It is satisfying to see numerous
empty snail shells during garden clean-up!
Some gardeners see aphids on their plants and
assume if action is not taken their garden will be
ruined. Before reaching for chemicals, assess the
situation. Look for natural enemies such as parasitic
wasps and lady beetles and let them take care of the
problem. Parasitic wasps lay their eggs in the aphids.
The larva hatches, eating the insides of the aphids,
killing them. The adult wasp later emerges from the
mummy. Aphids in small numbers are fine and no
control measures are needed. If numbers are high, try
simply wiping or spraying them off with water. If
numbers are overwhelming, a horticulture soap spray
can be used. Do not use the sprays in the heat of the
day as burning of foliage can occur.
Earwigs can mimic snail and slug damage, but
slime trails will not be there. To control or determine
if earwigs are the culprit, moisten some newspaper,
roll it up and place overnight in the garden. In the
morning, if earwigs are present, they should have
congregated in the newspaper. Simply throw away the
newspaper and repeat until numbers decrease. Another
method for attracting earwigs is to use shallow cans
filled with water and a layer of fish oil on top.
Vegetable oil with a bit of bacon grease works too.
See Pest Notes www.ipm.ucdavis.edu
3
Plant notes!
Here is more information about some plants mentioned in this newsletter.
Perennials (and biennials):
blue fescue Festuca glauca ( Syn. F. cinerea) Pictured is
‘Elijah Blue’, a grass that grows only 8” high
cast-iron plant Aspidistra elatior Grows in deep shade.
pig squeak Bergenia Shade. Leaves do squeal like pig when rubbed.
sedum (stonecrop) Sedum Succulent. Many varieties available.
spider plant Chlorophytum comosum Dry or moist shade.
sword fern Nephrolepis cordifolia Shade. May die to ground in
cold winters but resprouts in spring.
veronica (or speedwell) Veronica umbrosa ‘Georgia Blue’
Ground cover with blue flowers in early spring. Plant with daffodils.
Warm season annuals:
basil Ocimum basilicum Culinary herb. Bait new plants and
seedlings – snails and slugs love them.
cosmos Cosmos bipinnatus Sun. Easily direct seeded, cut flower.
knotweed, kiss-me-over-the-garden-gate Polygonum
orientale Sun, and grows over 6 feet tall. Reseeds. Sorry, no
photo – check the web.
marigold Tagetes Tall varieties are especially good for cutting.
‘Crackerjack’ is an easy to find variety.
sunflowers Helianthus annuus Can start direct seeding in March.
Variety ‘Pan’ is a favorite, 5 ft. tall plant has numerous, small golden
flowers with dark centers.
zinnia Zinnia Sun. Mildew a problem if plant is overhead watered.
Warm season bulbs:
calla Zantedeschia A favorite-- Z. elliottiana is yellow and likes sun!!
dahlia Dahlia Watch for emerging leaves and bait or trap snails,
slugs and earwigs!
gladiolus (grandiflora) Gladiolus To extend the bloom and avoid
thrips problems in hot weather, plant bulbs every 15 days Jan. to March.
Peruvian daffodil Hymenocallis narcissiflora (Syn. Ismene
calathina) Sun. Yellow and white varieties. Will multiply.
Warm season vegetables:
corn Plant in blocks rather than rows since wind pollinated, leave
suckers as no change in yield. Baby corn is fun to grow in smaller
gardens. Patricia usually plants the variety ‘Chires Baby’ which will
produce numerous baby ears per plant. Harvest as silk appears to a few
days after. If you miss the harvest period, let mature & dry for popcorn.
cucumbers Plant on trellis to save space. Lemon cucumbers are mild
and easy to grow.
eggplant Plant when air temp. above 70 deg F!!! If planted too
early, plant may become stressed and never recover, producing low
yield. Plants are pretty and can be planted in the flower garden. Heavy
fruit can break stems. Eggplants like lots of sun and water.
peanuts Fun to grow. Can plant raw supermarket peanuts --shell before
planting. The fertilized flower produces a peg that grows downward
and penetrates into loose soil where the peanut forms.
peppers (sweet and hot types) Support is a good idea as heavy fruit
can break stems. Peppers sunburn easily, afternoon shade or shade cloth
is best in Davis.
soybeans (edamame type) Glycine max Easy to grow – pods
harvested in fall. Flowering is daylight sensitive and there are long and
short day varieties. The easy to find Lake Valley Seeds ‘Edamame’
variety has done well in Davis.
Cool season vegetables:
March is the last chance to plant vegetables that like cool weather.
potatoes Tubers are really swollen underground stems. The more stem
underground, the more potatoes produced. Plant seed potatoes in trench
and cover stems with soil as they grow.
carrots Difficult to germinate seed – must be kept moist. Try covering
with wet burlap bag until sprouts visible. Or mix carrot and radish
seeds before planting. Radishes germinate quickly providing shade for
slower emerging carrots.
Cool season annuals and bulbs:
anemone Anemone coronaria Tuber planted in the fall, not now!!
calendula (pot marigold) Calendula officinalis Winter
flowering plant but it reseeds aggressively!!
 Citrus
Spring has arrived and the threat of frost is
almost passed so citrus planting and maintenance
should be on your to do list. Whether you are planting
a mandarin, lemon, grapefruit or an orange tree, the
rules are the same.
Make sure the spot you choose to plant your citrus
gets at least six hours of sunlight. For sweet varieties,
this is particularly important for accumulating sugars in
the fruit. As this past January has shown, citrus are
susceptible to frost so planting against a south wall or
along a fence can create a warmer microclimate than
being out in the open. Most citrus come grafted, so
make sure the graft is planted a few inches higher than
the ground surface.
Fertilizing young citrus trees is different than
fertilizing requirements for fruit-bearing citrus. Trees
not producing fruit should be fertilized with a small
amount of nitrogen three to four times a year (Feb.,
Mar., May and Aug.) as recommended by UC farm
advisors. Nitrogen is the most important nutrient
because it promotes growth of green material. Fruit-
bearing trees can be fertilized with a slow-release
citrus fertilizer in early spring and summer (Feb or
Mar. and Aug.) to help with flower and fruit
production. If fertilized in the fall, the new growth
promoted by this fertilization is susceptible to frost. If
trees have been damaged by frost, postpone fertilizing
until they recover.
Pruning should be done after the threat of frost is
past but before new growth occurs. The main reason to
prune is for the removal of broken limbs
and less producing wood. Note that usually more fruit
is produced in lower limbs while less fruit is
produced from higher limbs. Frost damage should be
removed later after the full affect of damage can be
assessed. The more heavily damaged the tree, the later
the pruning should be done. Suckers from the rootstock
should be removed as they occur. If a plant was killed
off entirely during a frost, new growth below the graft
is from rootstalk and the tree needs to be replaced.
Citrus roots are shallow so be careful when
cultivating and irrigating. It is especially important to
prevent the roots of young citrus from drying out.
Over-watering can be a problem as well, resulting in
leaf drop, yellowing of leaves and fungal diseases.
With our heavy clay soils it is always important to
check the moisture content of the soil before irrigating.
Spring blooming red anemone and veronica ‘Georgia Blue’
Plant sales and events
UCD Arboretum Plant Sales
March 17 9 am – 1 pm (members only - join at door)
April 7, April 21, May 19 9 am – 1 pm (open to public)
For information www.arboretum.ucdavis.edu
Wildflower Weekend --California Native Plant Society
April 21 and 22, 10 am – 4 pm. Free.
For information www.SacValleyCNPS.org
Pence Garden Tour (College Park area)
May 6 12 noon - 5 pm. For information 758-3370
Woodland Rose Tour
April 29 12 noon $20 (includes snacks)
Rain date May 6 For information 668-0944
Jepson Prairie Preserve Spring Wildflower Tours
For information (707) 432-0150
Davis Garden Club
Davis Public Library, 4th Monday of month, 7 – 9 pm
For information 220-3052 www.davisgardenclub.org
Ornamental cabbage during January frost. Cut back to new buds.
More gardening tips!
Increasing your observation skills will make you a better
gardener!
There will still be cool season annuals, in flower, being sold
in nurseries. These plants were best planted in the fall.
Planted now they don’t do much before the warm weather
arrives.
These plants aren’t annuals!! Don’t pull out snapdragons,
stock and ornamental cabbage when finished blooming this
spring. Cut them back for future blooms. Ornamental
cabbage should be cut back before flowering (look for the
new buds on the stem). The leaves will be green during the
summer but will color up again in the fall with many new
rosettes per plant.
Good source for spring planted bulbs:
McClure & Zimmerman 1-800-883-6998 www.mzbulb.com
Good source for seeds of flowers and vegetables:
Johnny’s Selected Seeds 1-877-564-6697
www.Johnnyseeds.com (knotweed)
Seeds of Change 1-888-762-7333 www.seedsofchange.com
(organic seeds, ‘Chires’ baby corn)
Newsletter created by:
Marlene Simon -- UCD graduate in Horticulture
Patricia Carpenter -- Garden Design and Education,
with 30 years of Davis gardening experience.
The bi-monthly newsletter is free if received by email. If mailed,
the cost is $6 per year. To be added to the subscription list or to
unsubscribe, contact us at: TheDiggingFork@gmail.com