Corsair Obsidian 800D Case Project

Corsair Obsidian 800D Case Project - Ars Technica OpenForum
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Corsair Obsidian 800D Case Project

70 posts 1 2 mnpctech
Ars Tribunus Militum Tribus: mnpctech.com Registered: Jun 25, 2002 Posts: 2635
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Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 4:48 pm
This custom Corsair Obsidian case project is for Canada's premiere hardware review site, "Hardware Canucks" Ok, lets take a closer look at this Beast.
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Hmmmm.... debating about the factory feet
Sorry, these factory feet MUST GO!
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I just wanted to see how this rad grill looked on the Obsidian, thats all I see some Chieftec cues in the manufacturing. The Obsidian reminded me of the old Alienware ALX chassis. The texture of the Matte Black finish as well
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The front bezel assembly comes off easily
SATA Hot swappable HD bays I'm not a fan of the Corsair "sail" window design, I'll take it Squared for this one..
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After a quick alteration! Square is better in this case.
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The Motherboard tray will slide out, but you must remove 3x screws and drill out 3x pop rivets, located in the rear (shown in photo) It would have been nice if the rivets were screws instead. Maybe you've debated about painting your Obsidian chassis. This is how I remove the plastic "Tool-less" 5.25 bay sliders without breaking the tiny plastic tabs inside. These tabs hold the slider onto the bay. You will need to bend the metal tabs as I illustrate here. You need to first file down the sides of the metal tab, so it will sit flush when you flatten it (not shown). I will then tap the metal tab with a flat head screw driver using a rubber mallet. Keep in mind if you're painting your chassis, you will need to bend the metal tabs back into place after re-installing the sliders. Doing this will likely chip your new paint! so you'll have to re-touch these tabs again. After considering this thought, I've decided to eliminate the sliders altogether. Corsair has left the option of fastening in your optical drive the traditional way with screws. Only 2 screws per side, but thats sufficient enough!
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I just barely cleared this flattened tab. Because of the thick factory paint finish, you should file down the sides of the metal tabs first, so they will sit flush when you flatten them. If you decide to paint your Obsidian chassis, remove these plastic tabs in the Hot swap drive bay, poke in with your micro flat head while pulling it out from beneath.
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The Obsidian's four-drive SATA hot-swap drive bay has 4x screws, which leads the user to believe it's removable without disrupting everything. Wedged beneath it is vibration dampening material with 4 positioning tabs which has solid grip on the HD bay. The only means I see in removing this bay is by spreading side walls apart, then pulling it out from either left or right side. You can't pull it out toward the rear of the chassis, becuase the upper 5.25 bay has a fold that prevents this, so you have to BEND the side walls of the HD cage to pull it out. I didn't like this thought, I opted to remove the both the 5.25 & HD bays by drilling out the pop rivets.
1/4" thick rubber beneath the HD bay for isolating vibration. Nice one Corsair!
Upper 5.25 and Hot swap bay removed.
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The Obsidian window fastened onto these threaded inserts with machine nuts. The threaded inserts will be in my way of progress, I'm removing them with my rotary tool and 1.5" cutting wheel http://www.mnpctech.com/DremelDisc.html
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More to come! coconutboy

Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 7:53 pm
Ars Tribunus Militum Tribus: riding my bike around the City of Angels Registered: May 14, 2002 Posts: 2451
Nice Bill. These cases are on sale (if you can call any case that costs over $200 "on sale" lol) at Newegg for $249 which, AFAIK, is the lowest it has been since a Microcenter special back in Oct. Some people think it's overpriced, too big (it's freakin' 2 feet tall by 2 feet deep!) etc, but for a fully internal watercooling rig, this thing is pretty badass.
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 12:52 pm
mnpctech
Yes, it's a heavy steel Monster, but agreed for internal watercooling, it is KING. I've talked with Corsair, sales have been very good, even at the suggested retail!
Installing Hardware lab's Black Ice 420 GTX (3x 140mm) Radiator in the top of the Obsidian requires altering the 5.25 Optical drive bay. You must remove the 5.25 bay by drilling out all of the pop rivets on the front of the Obsidian chassis. Supplies & Tools I used for this "photo illustrated" installation Mnpctech 420 Radiator Grill from performance-pcs used for measuring the location. You can also use these Radiator Mounting Templates Masking Tape
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Any Rotary tool like a Dremel Jigsaw with 18 TPI or higher metal cutting blade Center punch Power Drill with 3/16" drill bit 12" Measuring Square 12x M4 x 35mm size socket head machine screws length of mounting screws on what fan/rad set-up works best for your system. 3x ??????? brand 140mm cooling fans (to be announced)
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more to come! Glassy

Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:11 pm
Ars Tribunus Militum et Subscriptor Tribus: Pensacola, FL Registered: Apr 17, 2008 Posts: 2313
Bill, that radiator is a monster! I hope you're throwing some serious, serious kit in there to make use of all that Wink As for the SATA hotswap, how is it attached to the upper drive bay? Metal/Metal? and to the front? If any of those are metal/metal, the purpose of that rubber dampening at the bottom is moot, or at least highly degraded. It would seem to me once you had the pop rivets out you could replace them with dampened screws/bolts to actually muffle the vibrations from the drives! I don't get why the window shows the bottom wall and "some" of the PSU zone, it would seem to me that having
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the window end at the low wall would go a long way to cleaning up the aesthetics of that panel. Along the same line - does that wall end at the drive bays? it appears to have a gap along the window-panel side of the drive bays, which certainly decreases the thermal utility of isolating the PSU. Where are you headed with the build? coconutboy
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 2:03 pm
quote: Originally posted by Glassy: I don't get why the window shows the bottom wall and "some" of the PSU zone, it would seem to me that having the window end at the low wall would go a long way to cleaning up the aesthetics of that panel. Along the same line - does that wall end at the drive bays? it appears to have a gap along the window-panel side of the drive bays, which certainly decreases the thermal utility of isolating the PSU.
Bill's pics don't show it, but normally that 14cm fan that faces the upper hdd bay (the one w/ the hot swaps) is covered by a shroud that ducts air to the 14cm fan from the airspace below. I'm not sure that this creates a complete seal between the two airspaces, but it's pretty close AFAIK. Glassy
That just doesn't sound like it works very well to me. Let me see if I have this right. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Air comes in- bottom rear (below PSU? I'm sure it's elevated). Air moves forward towards fan in middle of wall. Some air that doesn't get pulled through that fan continues forward (?) to front drive cage (?). Some of that air gets pulled up alongside the window panel to enter the hotswap fan at a bizarre angle (?) Cooling is affected???
I'm kind of sad you described it like that, because it previously sounded like it sort-of barely made sense. The way to fix the setup I described (which can't be accurate or it would ramp HDD temps WAY up and wear the front fan down at lightspeed) would be to put that side-facing fan between the two drive cages and cover the middle vent. That way, air's drawn in at the rear, pulled forward, up, and then into the main compartment. Still fighting the PSU fan, but I suppose that's not a huge deal. Goofazoid
Ars Scholae Palatinae Registered: Jun 5, 2007 Posts: 1080
It looks to me like the PSU would intake cool air from the vent in the bottom of the case, then exhaust it out the rear of the case and that the fan on the HDD bays would draw cool air up from the part of the vent in the bottom that the PSU does not cover... but since I have only seen the case in photos I could be wrong. Smile
Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 10:24 am
mnpctech
The 140mm fan mounted on the HD hot swap bay relies on air drawn up to the mid section of the chassis by the other 140mm fan AND perforated chassis floor. A better solution would be perforated holes in the side panel over the fan's location. Draw in more cool air and eliminate the plastic "duct-like" enclosure altogether. Corsair should have taken notes from Addtronics. Addtronics was one of the first to implement "cross flow" drive bay cooling. They gave you the option to mount fans on both sides of the bay. Both side panels were perforated over these fans. It was great way to isolate cooling for your HDs.
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@ Glassy, The top of the SATA bay attaches to the 5.25 bay with folded edges that utilize removable oval rubber grommets. Apologies for not posting photo of this. Red_Chaos1
Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:37 am
Tribus: Austin, TX Registered: Dec 19, 1999 Posts: 7534
quote: Originally posted by Glassy: That just doesn't sound like it works very well to me. Let me see if I have this right. 1. Air comes in- bottom rear (below PSU? I'm sure it's elevated). 2. Air moves forward towards fan in middle of wall. 3. Some air that doesn't get pulled through that fan continues forward (?) to front drive cage (?). 4. Some of that air gets pulled up alongside the window panel to enter the hotswap fan at a bizarre angle (?) 5. Cooling is affected??? I'm kind of sad you described it like that, because it previously sounded like it sort-of barely made sense. The way to fix the setup I described (which can't be accurate or it would ramp HDD temps WAY up and wear the front fan down at lightspeed) would be to put that side-facing fan between the two drive cages and cover the middle vent. That way, air's drawn in at the rear, pulled forward, up, and then into the main compartment. Still fighting the PSU fan, but I suppose that's not a huge deal.
If I'm seeing it all properly, your best bet is a PSU with a 120mm bottom mount fan so it sucks air directly up through the filter and blows out the back. The mid mount fan pulls cool air up into the main bay. The drive cage system pulls air around the bottom mount HDDs, blows it across the swap bays, and then vents into the area behind the mobo where the cables get routed. Tat cover that covers up the back-plane seems to be what will direct the exhaust air that way. Overall, this case looks really good to me. I've been wondering for a few years now when someone would "get it" and create a system that routed all cabling behind so that the only thing showing was the short run to connectors and the connectors themselves. This case is a bit bigger than the P180 I have, and that cabling system paired with the HS back-plate makes it bonerific. I wish I had the cash, I need to update my rig,and a new case would be a great part of that. Sadly I have bills to pay, and no fun money really. mnpctech
Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 6:36 pm
Time to get the rad fitted properly, so I can get everything off to paint soon.
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The rad grill pictured here is a 420 (3x140mm) it's machined from 3/16" 6061 aluminum, and anodized Black. It has fully adjustable inserts. Different sizes and finishes of these rad grills are available from performance-pcs and they ship worldwide!
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Using 3/16" drill bit to make mounting screw holes.
This is how my initial cut out for the radiator looked. I attempted to install the grill/rad/fans, but the remaining "recessed" material wouldn't everything to fit together flush without using different size screws. I then decided to modify the panel further by removing the remaining honeycomb perforation and flatten the lip. The recessed center portion of the top panel helps reinforce rigidity. However, the chassis is steel, so I don't believe it was too detrimental to do this. I think it would have been fine to have left the panel flat. I would consider designing the panel perforations in a Obsidian 2.0 with optional for both 360 or 420 size radiators.
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Flattening the fold was done by turning the chassis upside down on the bench, and flattening the folds with a rubber mallet. Now I could use M4 x 30mm length machine screws to attach everything together.
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I installed the three included 140mm fans from Corsair to pre-fit everything. All of the 140mm fans will be replaced by another brand to be announced. Glassy
Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:34 am
That grill really pops on the top of the case. Good eye as usual, Bill Wink. I guess since the cooling sounds good to everyone else I'll just zip up and smile'n'nod, because apparently I'm the only one not getting it Wink. And yeah, Bill, when I saw that side fan I immediately looked for perforations in the side panel, and when I didn't see any is when I got confused.
Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:47 am
Red_Chaos1
Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius
quote: Originally posted by Glassy: That grill really pops on the top of the case. Good eye as usual, Bill Wink. I guess since the cooling sounds good to everyone else I'll just zip up and smile'n'nod, because apparently I'm the only one not getting it Wink. And yeah, Bill, when I saw that side fan I immediately looked for perforations in the side panel, and when I didn't see any is when I got confused.
Well, I'm not sure you're explaining your concerns very well. From what I'm getting, you seem to feel that cool air should be for the PSU and HDDS only, take that side facing fan, sandwich it between 2 HDDs, and let the main cabin suck hot air... I don't see how that is beneficial, or a "fix" at all... Sandwiching the fan makes it inefficient since there will now be all kinds of resistance to the air that got drawn in. You're blowing hot air into the main area. That's just bad all around. I can't really think of better way to explain the system than I already have, short of a nice 3D video showing airflow paths and all that (which I can't do because I don't know how to use an 3D apps). mnpctech
Posted: Tue Feb 02,
Here is the multi pane window frame design based on the fan grill I'm working on. Thi s could be cnc milled with beveled edges from 1 aluminum. Lower left was sketched as after thought, the final design will be draw in cad to match.
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Glassy
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 5:24 pm
quote: Originally posted by Red_Chaos1: quote: Originally posted by Glassy: That grill really pops on the top of the case. Good eye as usual, Bill Wink. I guess since the cooling sounds good to everyone else I'll just zip up and smile'n'nod, because apparently I'm the only one not getting it Wink. And yeah, Bill, when I saw that side fan I immediately looked for perforations in the side panel, and when I didn't see any is when I got confused.
Well, I'm not sure you're explaining your concerns very well. From what I'm getting, you seem to feel that cool air should be for the PSU and HDDS only, take that side facing fan, sandwich it between 2 HDDs, and let the main cabin suck hot air... I don't see how that is beneficial, or a "fix" at all... Sandwiching the fan makes it inefficient since there will now be all kinds of resistance to the air that got drawn in. You're blowing hot air into the main area. That's just bad all around. I can't really think of better way to explain the system than I already have, short of a nice 3D video showing airflow paths and all that (which I can't do because I don't know how to use an 3D apps).
I guess what I'm not getting is that the case doesn't appear to have any front intakes at all. I wrote my initial post
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thinking of it kind of like a scaled up P182, with two "zones" of cooling. In that situation, having a fan between the lower and upper zones makes little sense (hence why SPCR/Antec didn't do it). Possibly I'm hung up on traditional "in at bottom front out at top back" design. I guess if the only intake is at the bottom rear->mid, then it makes sense to have that fan in the lower wall. In such a case though, it makes more sense to me to get rid of the wall entirely, but again, I'm a traditionalist Wink. The fan at the front along the side just straight up doesn't make any sense to me, and I've come to accept that. I'm not a designer, so I bet they planned it all out and it works. I just can't think of any case I've ever seen set up like that (aside from HTPC boxes). EDIT: Bill: OH CANADAAAAA/denmark? mnpctech
Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 5:08 pm
The HD fan was interesting idea that could be improved upon. Hopefully Corsair addresses it in future revisions. We finished the HC logo inspired window frame today. This was made from 1/8" thick aluminum.
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Glassy
Bill, what is that design? It looks like Canada's flag spliced with a Scandanavian flag (Denmark? Norway?). It looks pretty cool, whatever it is.
mnpctech
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:49 am
Canadian Maple Leaf with banner for Hardware Canucks text logo, to be painted later Smile We finished the custom HC logo 3x140mm rad grill last night.. each of the grill are 360 degree adjustable...just for fun
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coconutboy
Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 4:19 am
ooooh. Shiny!
mnpctech
indeed! Smile Sometimes it's just easier to remove parts like the switches and led lenses instead of taping them off before we prep for custom paint. The Obsidian power and reset switches can be removed with a soldering iron.
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mnpctech
Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:23 pm
The power switch bay all taped up, ready for prep and paint. Now I just need to decide what paint color I will do.
Taping off the inside wall of the side panels from over spray.
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mnpctech
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 6:53 am
Anything you can remove instead of masking off, makes a custom paint job much more professional looking. If you decide to paint your Obsidian, you may or may not consider removing the panel release button and rod assembly.
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To remove the button, you'll need to poke in 4, release tabs with a small screw driver from the inside of the case. Red arrow shows location of one of the 4, plastic tabs
Remove the release button trim ring in the same manner
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Then you can remove the 4, tiny black screws. The rod is attached to the front of the chassis in the same manner, but without the button assembly. Each rod has one spring one the button side. Store these springs and fasteners in a plastic bag so they don't get lost!
Obsidian chassis awaits sand blasting.
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mnpctech
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 3:01 pm
The color sample book of the Paint Gods, HOUSE OF KOLOR
Staying faithful to the Maple Leaf tied into design, I decided on Candy Apple Red.
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This mini "skull" was painted with the Candy Apple Red..... Imagine the Obsidian painted this color!
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mnpctech
Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:57 am
Here is some photos taken while we sandblasted the chassis. The factory finish on the 800D is very thick and coarse, so it required 80 grit blasting sand
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coconutboy
I think I just wet myself w/ anticipation. GO GO CANUCK POWA!
mnpctech
Okay, here is live update from Brad's booth of the Obsidian chassis drying after final application of HoK Kandy Apple Red automotive paint.
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Red_Chaos1
Pretty swank. Now the trick is to not scratch it. :x
mnpctech
Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:31 am
heh, we're clearing it with PPG urethane automotive paint to give the surface some resilience to scratches.
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Doomlord_uk
"Unleashed" Ars Legatus Legionis et Subscriptor Tribus: E x a l-Har b Cathedra , Dar Registered: Nov 16, 2000 Posts: 21270
Addtronics lives on Smile Beautiful paintjob. Yeah, protecting it from scratches, flaking etc is important. My Bluefire paint is definitely showing it's age, and another case I recently bought that I thought was manufactured black turned out to be a custom job, and a bad one that - paint flaking off everywere =/ Is it terribly expensive to get it painted for you? Perhaps what I mean is, is it economic in general for a case mod project?
LordJosh
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:21 pm
"Down with Pants! Up with Skirts!" Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius et Subscriptor Tribus: Nashua, NH, USA Registered: Jul 11, 2003 Posts: 9846
That looks like a very pretty color.
mnpctech
@ Doom, this job would run somebody $1000. (includes dismantle / assembly) @ Lord, I like it too!
Fresh coat of clear on the Red Candy Apple on the chassis.
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Yes, and the backside of the bezel was painted too!
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Doomlord_uk
Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 5:30 pm
"Unleashed" Ars Legatus Legionis et Subscriptor Tribus: E x a l-Har b Cathedra , Dar Registered: Nov 16, 2000 Posts: 21270
quote: this job would run somebody $1000.
For the whole job, or just the paintwork??? bwoody2016

Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:54 pm
Smack-Fu Master, in training Tribus: Bay Area, CA Registered: Jul 25, 2007 Posts: 88
Wow I'm in aww.. Simply amazing
Ashe
Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:09 am
Ars Scholae Palatinae et Subscriptor Registered: Aug 15, 2005 Posts: 1469
Nice.
mnpctech
Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:16 pm
@ Doom, The paint job. @ bwoody2016, Thank you for kind words! @ Ashe, Thank you for the post! Thank you to NCIX.com! for sponsoring this Hardware Canucks build with Xigmatek XLF-F1455 140mm cooling fans The 1455 fan is 1000 RPM, 63.5 CFM @ 16 dBA
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mnpctech
Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:02 pm
The 420 rad grill frame painted Candy Apple Red
Doomlord_uk
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 6:09 pm
"Unleashed" Ars Legatus Legionis et Subscriptor Tribus: E x Cathedra , Dar a l-Har b Registered: Nov 16, 2000 Posts: 21270
As always, nice detail shots. Very good for the eyes Smile
mnpctech
Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:21 am
Thank you Doom! The Obsidian feet were given fresh coat of HoK paint as well.
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The plastic 5.25 bay Power / Reset Switch plate
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Red_Chaos1
Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:37 pm
Man oh man, I can already tell this is going to be one swank machine. I like how the black and red are going together so far (my fav colors).
coconutboy
Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 7:48 pm
Aye, really looking forward to seeing the final product. That maple leaf grille is freakin' hot!
mnpctech
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 5:55 pm
It's gonna be real hard to watch this one leave...lol 5.25 bay covers are finished!
Hot Swappable bay door Cool
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70 posts 1 2 Ars Technica > Forums > Hardware & Tweaking > Case and Cooling Fetish
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Corsair Obsidian 800D Case Project

70 posts Previous Glassy
1 2
I want that color on my car <.< So beautiful! I thought you were replacing the feet?
mnpctech
Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:51
Yes, I planned to, but the stock actually grew on me...lol. The bezel is finished. I'm waiting for the su to come back, so I can go outside and take photos of the paint.
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The Hot Swappable bay
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mnpctech
Installed 140mm Xigmatek XLF-F1455 140mm cooling fan (1000 RPM, 63.5 CFM @ 16 dBA) co grill mounted on the Hot Swappable bay.
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Arasirsul
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:15 am
"Doesn't rate a custom title." Ars Tribunus Militum et Subscriptor Tribus: Southerner transplanted to Seabrook, MD, USA Registered: Feb 20, 2006 Posts: 2748
People have hyped the black and red, but the red plus the aluminum to me is where it really shines-- particularly being a build for HardwareCanucks, so the metallic equivalent of white and red is doubly appropriate. Very slick.
Blacktree
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:19 pm
Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius Tribus: Central Florida Registered: May 5, 1999 Posts: 6677
I'm usually not a big fan of metallic red, but that particular shade looks really good. It almost looks like it's wet with fresh blood.
mnpctech
Glad you guys like it, Thank you for the comments! Ok, back to more seXay images...
To mount my Rad Grill / Case / Fan / Radiator sandwich, I use our M3 x 35mm length socket head perfectly without the worry of piercing your radiator fins.
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mnpctech
Photos of the 140mm Xigmatek fans powered.
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Doomlord_uk
"Unleashed" Ars Legatus Legionis et Subscriptor Tribus: E x Cathedr a , Dar a l- Har b Registered: Nov 16, 2000 Posts: 21270
If Mercedes made cases... ...they'd be taking notes.
Costanza
Smack-Fu Master, in training Registered: Sep 18, 2009 Posts: 80
Those screws are awesome did you use them all over the case. What kind of screwdriver head do you use for that. I am the noob!
Doomlord_uk
"Unleashed" Ars Legatus Legionis et Subscriptor Tribus: E x a l- Har b Cathedr a , Dar Registered: Nov 16, 2000 Posts: 21270
Those are allen-head bolts Smile They do look good.
mnpctech
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I like them too, very clean looking. The Maple Leaf portion of the window frame was painted Ivory. H coated.
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Red_Chaos1
You know, I can't help but see a stylized drawing of Texas when I see that maple leaf.
mnpctech
Agree, didn't think of it that way, but yeah. Thank you for tuning in and commenting Red Smile
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mnpctech
Installed the window in the side panel. The window is 1/8" cast acrylic. I threaded the window for 6/3 machined screws.
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Hardware Canucks logo is made from Red & White Vinyl Film.
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LordJosh
Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:12 am
Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius et Subscriptor Tribus: Nashua, NH, USA Registered: Jul 11, 2003 Posts: 9846
Looks gorgeous.
mnpctech
Thank you Josh!
Ok, that first logo belonged on a WONDER Bread bag.. We were about to redo it with carbon fiber f frosted vinyl for another project window. This is the film resellers use for Window Appliques that look now.
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Blacktree
Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius Tribus: Central Florida Registered: May 5, 1999 Posts: 6677
I agree, the new lettering looks much better.
Doomlord_uk
Ars Legatus Legionis et Subscriptor Tribus: E x Cathedr a , Dar a l- Har b Registered: Nov 16, 2000 Posts: 21270
much better++
Arasirsul
Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 6:40 am
Ars Tribunus Militum et Subscriptor Tribus: Southerner transplanted to Seabrook, MD, USA Registered: Feb 20, 2006 Posts: 2748
Agreed. In fact, the half-maple leaf, IMHO, should also be done in that silvery shade. While white-and-red is traditional for the Canadian flag, the metal-flake in the red means that some metal-flake in the white (turning it silver) is called for. Beautiful work, though. Next time I score me a lottery (or have the company paying for it, which is much the same thing), I may have to hire you.
SDplus
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Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius et Subscriptor Tribus: Danderyd, Stockholm, Sweden Registered: Feb 12, 2002 Posts: 8633
You know, absolutely every single frosted film I ever applied to a window (LOADS!) was made to be attached on the inside of the window for the best effect. The glue is the trick that attaches like crystals and makes tha glass actually look etched on the inside. The frosty film is just there to give the right light-transparency. However. I have heard of cheaper outside mounted stuff before. Just never ever handled one.
mnpctech
@Arasirsul, I agree, Silver would have looked great as well
@SDplus, Yes, I've applied it to the backside as well. I just wanted it to be more prominent for the lo
I never had time to try the lighting, sorry! Here is some photos I took before the case shipped. I reco as soon as I can get to it. That showed off the metal flake much better than the photos.
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Doomlord_uk
Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 3:18 pm
Ars Legatus Legionis et Subscriptor Tribus: E x Cathedr a , Dar a l- Har b Registered: Nov 16, 2000
That looks f'n gorgeous Especially those top three fan vents, and the colour is perfect. And the plainness of the rest of the case just shows the maple-leaf logo to
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Posts: 21270
perfect effect.
Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 10:53 am
Red_Chaos1
Doomlord_uk wrote: That looks f'n gorgeous Especially those top three fan vents, and the colour is perfect. And the plainness of the rest of the case just shows the maple-leaf logo to perfect effect.
Couldn't agree more. mnpctech

Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 6:03 am
Thank you gang! The video came out crappy, the sun's reflection was too bright. Hardware Canucks plan to do a video in their studio. They're giving the case away, but I haven't heard or when exactly yet..
Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 8:30 am
mnpctech
Hardware Canucks has posted HD video of case. I was really honored to see this. They invest a lot of time into the production of their hardware review videos on YouTube and it shows! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIlQvu2F0KA
continuum
Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 11:28 am
Moderator et Subscriptor Tribus: California Registered: Jul 1, 1999 Posts: 70208
Wow... impressive!!!
Bob Squad
Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 12:43 pm
Ars Scholae Palatinae Tribus: Cincinnati, OH Registered: Dec 16, 1999 Posts: 1275
Looks beautiful. Question: The area under where the bolts are attached - how do you deal with the paint? Does the paint crack when you tighten down the bolts? Because in this picture http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/pict ... z9z9z8.jpg - I would imagine the paint is going to interfere with the bolt. Do you remove the portion of paint where the back of the bolt head comes in contact?
Matrices
Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 2:27 pm
Ars Legatus Legionis et Subscriptor Tribus: NYC Registered: Aug 9, 2003 Posts: 13573
Mmm that color red is so rich and awesome.
mnpctech
Posted: Sat May 29, 2010 9:05 am
Thank you for kind words guys!
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Bob Squad wrote: Looks beautiful. Question: The area under where the bolts are attached - how do you deal with the paint? Does the paint crack when you tighten down the bolts? Because in this picture - http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/pict ... z9z9z8.jpg - I would imagine the paint is going to interfere with the bolt. Do you remove the portion of paint where the back of the bolt head comes in contact?
It's not necessary to remove the paint, because we apply a Polyurethane Clear over it, so the top coat is very durable.. same grade as a new automotive finish Thallium
Posted: Sat May 29, 2010 5:11 pm
Ars Legatus Legionis et Subscriptor Tribus: San Diego, CA Registered: Jun 16, 1999 Posts: 25667
Man, your stuff is just so damned good. I'm jealous.
70 posts Previous Ars Technica > Forums > Hardware & Tweaking > Case and Cooling Fetish
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Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 4:48 pm