ANALYSIS OF FABRIC DRAPE IN RELATION TO FABRIC PROPERTIES

Josephine Nirmala Many,

Bharathi dasan Goverenment College for Women (Autonomous), Puducherry-605001, India

nirmalamany@gmail.com, N. Vasugi Raaja ,

Avinashilingam Uni versity for Women, Coi mbatore, Indi a vasugiraaja@g mail.com,

Abstract. Drape is one of the important factors influencing the aesthetics and functionality of fabrics. Therefore, investigation into drape parameters is important for analysing its behaviour. Drape Coefficient was investigated by using the Cusick Drape meter. Basically, the three-dimensional fabric drape is not an independent fabric property, therefore, the correlation between mechanical property of fabric measured using KES-F and drape coefficient was studied. The mechanical property values were used to formulate predictive equations for fabric drape. Shear hysteresis and bending resistance were found to be most closely associated with fabric drape. Key words : fabric drape. KES-F, mechanical property INTRODUCTION: Drape is a property of fabrics associated with the aesthetic appearance of garments and other textile structures. Fabric drape can be defined as a description of the deformation of the fabric produced by gravity when only part of it is directly supported. A garment, for example a skirt, is in contact with the body only at some places. Most of the rest of the skirt falls gracefully and forms smooth folds. Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than one direction with double curvature. When material is draped it can bend in one or more directions, curtains and draperies usually bend in one direction, whereas garments and upholstery exhibits a complex three dimensional form with double curvature. Thus fabric drape is a complex effect involving large deformations under low stress. Initially fabric is draped rapidly based on its weight overcoming the resistance associated with its stiffness, after which the stiffness of fabric structure resists further deformation. Fabrics may drape in dramatically different ways depending upon fibre, type of yarn, fabric structure and type of finish. Residual regression method was used to find correlations between drape coefficient and bending rigidities (in warp, weft and bias directions) and weight per unit area of fabric. The influence of the anisotropy in bending rigidity on the drape prediction was studied. The effect of the hysteresis in fabric shearing and bending on the drape coefficient stability and reproducibility was also investigated. MATERIALS: Based on the survey results, five fabrics were selected for the present study of Fabric Drape two suiting materials, two shirting materials and one dress material. The particulars of the selected materials are as follows: Suiting materials (a) 100% cotton, twill weave, (b) Polyester-cotton 67/33 blend, plain weave. Shirting (a) Polyester- cotton 67/33 blend, plain weave, (b) 100 % Polyester. plain weave, Dress Material 100% cotton, plain weave. All measurements were carried out under standard testing conditions, i.e. temperature of 20 2 C and 65 2% relative air humidity. .

Table 1 Specifications of the Study Materials Yarn count Sample No 1 2 3 4 5 Type Cotton Cotton Polyester/cotton Polyester Polyester/cotton Blend % 100 100 67/33 100 67/33 Type of Weave Twill Plain Plain Plain Plain Warp 2/40S 30S 2/30S 30S 30S Weft 2/40S 30S 2/30S 30S 30S Fabric count Warp 166 76 65 64 76 Weft 72 68 48 41 66

METHODS: Measurement of Drape Coefficient: Cusick Drape meter was used to determine the fabric drape. In this method the cutting of the projected area along the contour of the nodes was weighed. The weight of the supporting area of the paper on the disc is deducted. The difference is divided by the weight of the uncut annular ring paper (undraped area of the specimen). The drape coefficient values were calculated as follows. Drape co-efficient % =

Wpa - Wsda Warp

x100

Wpa = Weight of the projected area of the paper. Wsda = Weight of the supporting disc area of the paper Warp = Weight of the annular ring paper. In this method it was assumed that the linear density of the paper is constant. For the present study an ordinary paper of constant thickness was chosen. According to standard DIN 54306 , the least three samples was measured to determine drape coefficient, while no rules are available for the measurement of fold numbers. Measurement of the low stress mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System Fabric (KES-F): The KES-F system was used for evaluating the mechanical properties the sample fabrics. A sequence was established for testing each of fabric strain, bending, shear and tensile testing. The sample preparation was done by storing the samples in a flat, unstrained state; conditioned for 24 hours before testing, subjected to minimum handling. The 200mm x 200mm specimen was prepared by unraveling threads from a sample cut to approximately 210mm x210mm, in order to minimize the strain at the sample edges during specimen preparation. . Measurements have been made for each samples in both warp and weft directions for tensile, bending, shear and surface properties. Four measurements per sample in each thread direction for bending, shear and surface properties were made. The various properties tested are given in the subsequent heads.

Table 2 Mechanical properties measured on the KES-F system Parameters Tensile Symbols EM LT WT RT Bending B 2HB Shearing G 2HG 2HG5 Characteristic Value Elongation Linearity Tensile energy Resilience Bending Rigidity Hysteresis Shear rigidity 139.6 mrad shear strain Hysteresis at 8.7 mrad shear strain Hysteresis at 87 mrad shear strain Compression LC WC RC Surface MIU MMD SMD Weight Thickness Thickness W To Tm Linearity Compressional energy Resilience Coefficient of friction Mean deviation of MIU Geometrical roughness Weight /Unit area Thickness at 0.5 gf/cm2 Thickness at 50 gf/cm2 None J/m2 % None None Micron Mg/cm2 Mm Mm Units % none J/m2 % UN m MN mm N/m N/m N/m

Measurement of Crimp percentage The Manura Crimp Tester was used and the crimp percentage was calculated Crimp% =

l-p x100 p

Where l length of the yarn after removal of crimp P cloth length of the yarn. Fabric Thickness: Thickness of the fabric is determined by using the MERCER Thickness Gauge IS: 2544:1954. The reading was noted and the mean of ten reading was reported as the thickness of the fabric taken at 35 gf / cm2 at different areas on the fabrics was expressed in millimeter. Fabric Stiffness (Bending): Cantilever Bending Tester was used to determine bending. Each specimen was tested four times at each end and again with the fabric strip turned over. Mean values for the bending length in warp and weft direction was calculated. B = W x C 3 9.81x 10-6 UN.m Where B = Bending rigidity W = Weight of the fabric in g/ m2 C = Bending length in mm.

RESULTS: The mechanical properties related to bending shearing, lateral compression, extension and surface roughness characteristics as well as weight and thickness, in terms of their importance while measuring fabric drape. Table 3 Correlation Matrix of Drape Coefficient and Low Stress Mechanical Properties of the Fabrics
DC DC (%) EM (%) LT (-) WT (gm.cm/cm2 ) RT (%) B (g.cm 2 /cm) G (g.cm.deg) 2HG (g/cm) 2HG5 (g/cm) MIU (-) MMD (-) SMD ( m) LC (-) RC (%) To (mm) W (mg/cm )
2

EM 1

LT

WT

RT

2HB

2HG 2HG5 MIU MMD SMD

LC

WC

RC

To

1 0.387 -0.042 -0.869 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

0.642 0.950 -0.700

-0.604 0.047 -0.051 -0.132

0.871 -0.073 0.449 0.233 -0.519

2HB (g.cm/cm) 0.831 0.025 0.396 0.329 -0.549 0.916

0.933 0.040 0.252 0.328 -0.725 0.950 0.864

0.805 0.096 0.274 0.378 -0.669 0.818 0.969 0.823

0.901 0.095 0.208 0.380 -0.807 0.879 0.924 0.946 0.948

-0.068 0.658 -0.687 0.494 0.592 -0.344 -0.488 -0.335 -0.557 -0.488

0.307 -0.067 0.104 -0.008 0.104 0.386 -0.006 0.354 -0.196 0.032 0.439

-0.459 0.195 -0.333 -0.014 0.823 -0.512 -0.716 -0.590 -0.836 -0.789 0.857 0.487

0.857 0.272 -0.007 0.474 -0.333 0.795 0.560 0.819 0.438 0.624 0.231 0.751 -0.026

WC (g.cm/cm 2) 0.901 0.605 -0.404 0.773 -0.699 0.593 0.604 0.772 0.672 0.798 0.038 0.124 -0.448 0.695

-0.720 -0.498 0.252 -0.669 0.689 -0.473 -0.706 -0.602 -0.842 -0.801 0.307 0.420 0.749 -0.273 -0.824

0.975 0.495 -0.155 0.731 -0.635 0.781 0.825 0.868 0.847 0.904 -0.095 0.103 -0.540 0.733 0.941 -0.852

0.957 0.207 0.202 0.500 -0.572 0.945 0.954 0.941 0.912 0.941 -0.268 0.198 -0.580 0.763 0.771 -0.713 0.931

. Tensile Property: The correlation matrix table reveals that LT is dependent on B [2] and MIU. In considering the correlation of tensile property with drape coefficient, the study proves that tensile property almost had negligible correlation or no correlation with drape coefficient. Many researchers reported similar findings [3, 4, 5]. This proves that tensile property has less influence on drape coefficient of the fabrics. Shear Property: As reported by many research workers like Chu et.al [6], Cusick [5], Collier [4], and Morooka and Niwa [3] that shear properties are highly related to drape coefficient. In the present study, this is proved and evident in the figures. Shear stiffness and hysteresis are highly correlated . It is more important as shear hysteresis includes internal friction, which is responsible for complex fabric deformation. The correlation of shear rigidity (stiffness) with drape coefficient is highly significant (0.933). Comparing the correlation between the two angles of shear hysteresis. At 5 degree angle the value of the correlation is higher than of the 0.5-degree angle. Bending Property : Bending property and shear property are interrelated, the studies conducted on shear property always includes the relation of bending property. The above mentioned researchers correlated the bending property with drape coefficient. The present study shows the relation between the bending modulus and drape coefficient is significantly high . This has been proved in the Morooka and Niwa [3] study as they associated the bending and fabric weight and found it to be correlated. The bending length using Cantilever Bending Tester was observed to be similar to the value obtained from KES-F method. The bending rigidity values were combined with fabric thickness ( Tm ) to give relative measure of bending stiffness, these values of B/Tm provide a meaningful comparison between fabrics of various thickness. This was found to be significantly related and used for predicting fabric drape model, especially in garment designing.

Surface Property: From the table 6.8 it was proved that the surface properties were not correlated to drape coefficient. Coefficients of friction and geometric roughness are inversely proportional to the drape coefficient, though much literature is not available in this area [7]. MMD is positively correlated and SMD is negatively correlated to drape coefficient. Compression Property: The present study revealed a high correlation between the compressional properties and drape coefficient. RC was negatively correlated while LC and WC was positively correlated. Till now there is no literature was available with reference to the relation between the compression property and fabric drape. This area needs more research to analyse the reason for its relativity. Fabric Weight: It was found that there was good correlation between the fabric weight and drape coefficient. As per the definition that drape is the quality of the fabric which hangs on its own weight which is clearly proved by means of high correlation. Fabric Thickness : Bending rigidity of the fabric is affected by the factor of fabric thickness [8]. The study proved that the fabric thickness is significantly related to drape coefficient. It is necessary to represent thickness with different load and present the compressional percentage . Shelton [9], Moorka [3] and Collier [10] observed that bending rigidity and shear hysteresis is closely related to fabric drape. The two parameters WC and LC appear to be highly correlated to fabric drape coefficient, and this has not been reported in the existing literature. The reasons for this require more investigation.

Effect of Fabric Structure on Fabric Drape: Drape induced by gravitational force depends on the structure and mechanical properties of the fabric. Jeong and Phillips [11] studied on the fabric structure property and drape instability. However there has been little investigation of the relationship between fabric structure and fabric drape. The present study probes into this area to find the interrelation between the fabric structure and fabric drape [12]. Table 4 Structural Property of the Fabrics in Relation to Drape Coefficient
Thread density (per sq.inch) 238 144 113 105 142 0.667

Sample No. 1 2 3 4 5

Drape Coefficient (%) 78.00 68.29 75.47 60.36 67.77 r

Cover factor 31.26 0.13 28.43 16.07 24.73 0.555

Weave crimp (%) 10.2 6.2 6.67 2.0 6.18 0.897

Effect of Cover Factor: The drape coefficient and cover factor are significantly correlated [11] This occurs because the bending rigidity generally increases as the cover factor increases. It has been 5

claimed that the bending length is more meaningful parameter than bending rigidity in explaining fabric drape [13]. Weave Crimp: The amount of thread or weave crimp may be controlled in two ways, one way is by the
finishing processes involved and the other is by the choice of fabric structure at the design stage. The role of thread crimp on bending rigidity was predicted by Ghosh et.al [14]. According to this study, at low crimp levels, an increase in crimp alone reduces the fabric bending rigidity. An increase in crimp is offset by an increase in the contact between warp and weft threads. This causes an increase in fabric bending rigidity when the effect of thread contact is generally more pronounced [13,15]. If crimp were increased, it would result in a decrease in bending rigidity that would decrease the drape coefficient, in other words improving the drapeability of the fabric, which is evident in the figures. Thread Density (sum of ends and picks per inch): The thread densities are an associated factor of cover factor and weave crimp [132,133]. From the Fig it is clear that fabric drape is significantly correlated to thread density. As thread density increases the drape coefficient of the fabric also increases [16]. Non Parametric Analysis: Apart from the parametric analysis, non parametric analysis like regression analysis was subjected on the data obtained from the KES-F test. Residual Regression Analysis: Niwa and Seto [17], in their study formulated the relationship between drapeablity and mechanical properties. They used mechanical parameters in combinations (B/W)1/3 , (2HB/W)1/3 , (G/W)1/3 , and (2HG/W)1/3 as independent variables. They derived these parameter combinations from an analysis of bending and shear by applying the heavy elastica theory. They finally obtained an equation to describe drape coefficient, which was called Niwas model Table 5 Drape Coefficient in Relation to Niwas Model Residual Regression Drape Coefficient (%) 78.00 68.29 75.47 60.36 67.77 r

Sample No. 1 2 3 4 5

BW
0.156 0.123 0.154 0.148 0.109 0.387

2B W
0.183 0.124 0.164 0.137 0.111 0.342

GW
0.473 0.509 0.508 0.447 0.340 0.348

2 HG W
0.718 0.648 0.559 0.528 0.485 0.727

2 HG5 W
0.798 0.851 0.753 0.651 0.601 0.603

It was found that the relation between the (2HB)1/3 and (2HG)1/3 were significantly correlated as 0.727 and 0.603 respectively with drape coefficient of the fabric. The correlation of (B/W)1/3 and (G/W)1/3 with drape coefficient was found to be 0.387 and 0.348 respectively. In the case of (2HG5/W)1/3 it was found to be 0.603 which is considerable This proves that when shear and bending property were combined with weight it gives a meaningful interpretation of data. And the correlation of drape coefficient with these parameters gives more significant interpretation about the data.

Table 6 Drape Coefficient in Relation to Residual Bending Curvature and Residual Shear Angle of the fabrics Sample No. 1 2 3 4 5 r Drape Coefficient (%) 78.00 68.29 75.47 60.36 67.77 Residual Bending curvature (m-1 ) 80.87 51.9 41.6 39.82 53.42 0.629 Residual Shear angle (degrees) 1.741 1.033 0.666 0.823 0.929 0.505

Apart from the hysteresis values, other parameters were selected to study the influence of mechanical properties on the drape instability. These were residual bending curvature (RB expressed in m-1) and residual shear angle (RS expressed in degrees) . The residual bending curvature (RB) represents the amount of unrecovered bending strain left in a fabric after bending recovery cycle and likewise the residual shear angle (RS) represents a measurements of the extent to which a fabric recovers from shear deformation. Both RB and RS caused the drape instability; the correlation coefficients of these parameters with drape coefficient were statistically significant (0.629 and 0.505). Both RB and RS are qualitative measures of internal friction effect in the fabric. CONCLUSIONS: The fabric Sample 1 was the thickest material, the low stress mechanical property of it was greatly affected. Bending and shearing property had the highest correlation with drape coefficient. Drape coefficient was highly correlated with compression property. Drape coefficient was highly correlated with fabric weight and fabric thickness. Fabric structure property were also had high correlation RS and RB was found to be correlated.

REFERENCE: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. DIN 54 306 Bestimmung des Fallvermgens von Textilen Flchengebilden, Februar 1979. Hu,J., and Chan Y.F., Effect of Fabric Mechanical Properties on Drape, Tex.Res.J. 68 (1), 57-64 (1998). Moorka, H., and Niwa, M., Relation Between Drape Coefficient and Mechanical Properties of Fabric, J.Tex. Mach. Soc. Jpn., 22 (3), 67-73 (1976). Collier,B,J., Paulins, V.A.,and Collier, J.R., Effects of Interfacing Type on Shear and Drape Behaviour of Apparel Fabrics, Cloth.Tex.Res.J., 7 (3), 51-56 (1989). Cusick, G.E., The Dependence of Fabric Drape on Bending and Shear Stiffness, J. Tex. Inst, 56, T596606 (1965). Chu,C.C., Platt,M.M.,and Hamburger, W.J., Investigation of the Factors Affecting the Drapeability of Fabric, Tex.Res.J.,30 66-67 (1960). Huh, S.Y., A study on the Drapability and Mechanical Properties of Fabrics, J.Korean.Soc Tex. Eng.Chem, 24 13-20 (1987). Sudnik,Z.M., Objective Measurement of Fabric Drape: Practical Experience in the Laboratory, Tex

9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.

Inst.Ind., 59(1), 14-18 (1972). Skelton,J., The Fundamentals Of Fabrics Shear, Tex.Res.J.Vol.46 862-869 (1976). Collier, B.J., Measurement of Fabric Drape and its Relation to Fabric Mechanical Properties and Subjective Evaluation, Cloth.Tex. Res.J., 10 (1), 96-107 (1991). Jeong,Y.J., and Phillips, D.G., A Study of FabricDrape with Image Analysis, Part II: The Effect of Fabric Structure and Mechanical Properties on Fabric Drape, J. Tex Inst., 89 (1) , 70-79 (1998). Kim,C.J. and Vaughn, E.A., Prediction of Fabric Hand from Mechanical Properties of woven Fabrics, J.Tex.Mach.Soc.Japan. Vol 32, 47-56 (1979). Postle, J.R., and Postle,.R., Fabric Bending and Drape Using Objective Measurement, Inst.J.Clothing,Sc.Tech., Vol4, 7-15 (1992). Ghosh,T.K., Batra,S.k., and Barker,K.L., The Bending Behaviour of Plain-woven Fabrics, Part II The Case of Linear Thread - bending Behaviour, J.Tex.Inst., Vol 81, Part I, 59-69 (1990) Eeg-Olofsson.T., Some Mechanical Properties of Viscose Rayon fabrics, Tex.Res.J., Vol 50, 112 (1959). Matura Raheel, Modern Textile Characterization Method Marcel Dekker Inc, New York (1995). Niwa, M., and Seto, F., Relationship Between Drapeability and Mechanical Properties of Fabrics, J. Tex. Mach. Soc. Jpn., 39 (11), 161-168 (1986).

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