For Mountaineers: 1) Should have general training exercise for mountaineers.

2) Mountaineers must me handed with guiding booklets 3)

Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide :

To assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food, etc. And to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability. To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit in the mountain. To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit. To ensure that the climbers (trekkers) follow the specified route. To ensure proper disposal of waste materials. To report to NMA any infringement of the climbing rules To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post. The Sirder Guide shall be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished. The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the following facilities:-

Minimum daily allowance to be paid as per the rules of Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism, and Civil Aviation. Food and tent accommodation. Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above the base camp. Insurance: - All employees going above the base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of Rs. 200,000.00. Protection of Environment: - Base camp and other camps will be left perfectly c lean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials, such as fix rope, pitons, etc shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off. A. Who organizes? 1.If you decide to book through an agency, ensure it is a reputable firm that provides proof of its knowledge of the area you wish to visit, as well as of an environmental code of practice. B. destination: 2. Select less traveled routes to reduce impact on popular trails; or 3. Select or asked to be guided on less frequented alternative trails along the main route. C. Group size: 4. Limit your party to about 10 if tenting; larger groups place more strain on tent sites.

D. clothing and equipment 5. If concerned about being conspicuous, dark or earthen colored clothes, backpacks and tents blend in better with the natural surroundings. 6. Carry a small stove and fuel for cooking to save on firewood. 7. Take along a couple of garbage bags to save on firewood. 8. Use a tent with poles and water proof floor to make it unnecessary to cut trees for tent poles or to dig a ditch for rainwater. 9. Attach earphones to your (indispensable?) radio or cassette player, so as not to disturb others at a campsite or on the trail. E. Food: 10. Repack food from aluminum foil, cans and bottles into plastic bags to reduce weight, space and litter. If it cannot be repacked, consider leaving it at home. PATHOLOGY F. Respect for people: 11. Keep discreet by not shouting or loudly playing a radio or cassette player. G. Respect for wildlife: 12. Help wild animals remain undisturbed by using only telephoto lens or binoculars for closeups. 13. Leave wild animals to their natural diet by not feeding them. 14. Do not carve on trees: you may scar them for life. H. Respect for things? Yes! 15. Leave alone stones, wood and metal statues, cravings and shrines; never touch painted religious symbols, figures and frescoes or other cultural historical or archeological sites and artifacts. You can admire and photograph these, but also let future trekkers enjoy discovering them and, more importantly, respect the local peoples use of the above. 16. Never disturbed moraine, glaciers or ridge top cairns; they may be essential navigation aids for traders, herders, and other travelers. I. Trail Hints: 17. Stay of paths closed by logs or rocks; local people sometimes close certain paths that have been replaced by safer or better routes. 18. Do not shortcut obvious switchbacks; if others follow you, it will lead to erosion. 19. Spread out when walking off the path in flower meadows and avoid trampling some plants. III. COOKING J. Lodges: 21. If stopping to eat in the lodge, remember that local meal are usually prepared between 9.00 and 11.00am; outside of those hours, extra firewood will be needed to prepare some times for you. In the evening, too, try to eat when others do.

K. Stoves: 21. If camping out, use stoves whenever possible; stoves are mandatory in National Parks. 22. Portable stove cooking is fast and efficient and saves cutting firewood.23. Stoves are much safer when dryness, dense vegetation or winds may create a fire hazard. 24. Always use stoves above the tree line to preserve sparse vegetation and to discourage the use of scare firewood brought from lower elevation. L. Fires: 25. Built a fire as a last resort; use it only for cooking, and keep it small. 26. Built, where possible, on inorganic soil such as beaches, dry washes or sand, or else on snow, rock, ice or gravel. 27. Ringing with rocks does not prevent a fire from spreading, so leave stones where they lie. 28. Built in existing fireplace in high use areas; douse with water when finished. 29. If you must built on a previously unused site, then douse with water, scatter ash and naturalize the site when finished. 30. Collect firewood some distance from camp and from several locations so as not to deplete any one area. 31. Collect only firewood which is dead, lying in the ground and breakable with your hands; alternatively, purchase a load of firewood from a nearby farmer. IV. LITTERACY M. Hygiene: 33. Most items, clothing and even bodies may be adequately cleaned without soap; if you do need soap, use a biodegradable type to minimize contamination of water and vegetation. N. Human Waste: 34. Urinate on rocks instead of on vegetation in order to keep away salt-craving wildlife. 35. If urinating in snow, kick some over your urination to cover the color. 36. Minimize health risks to others by defecating at least 30 meters away from trails, water, houses, campsites and high waterline by river and lakes. 37. If you have diarrhea and/or the distance from the trail is limited by the terrain (e.g. steep slope above and below), then at east ensure that your feces are exposed to the sun and unlikely to be walked on; this way decomposition will be quicker. 38. Learn to clean yourself from a lota (jug) of water, but if toilet paper is necessary, burn it after use. 39. Groups should use temporary latrines dug at least 20cm. deep and covered after usage with soil; with pit is full or site is abandoned, covered latrine with a combination of soil, pine needles, cones, twigs and small stones. 40. In snow, a concentration of waste will not decompose; so defecate in individual small holes that you cover with snow after use. Ideally, if you find an isolated spot which has little chance of being seen by someone else then defecated on the surface to expose your feces to the sun. 41. Use toilets wherever they are available. O. Plain Garbage: 42. Prepare to rinse and pack out what cannot be eaten or burned; only paper, tampons and food

scraps should be burned. 43. Dumping juices out of cans may increase the number of bothersome and disease-carrying insect and other vertebrates; so drink it all or dilute it in waste water. 44. Widely scatter waste water as well as animal and fish viscera on land. Pouring liquid cooking water in one spot contaminates the area with bad smells and attracts possibly hazardous insects, birds and other animals. 45. Use designated refuse pits where existing, for any metal, glass or plastic garbage you truly are unable to carry out. 46. Keep wrappers from chewing gum, candies, biscuits, medicine or film in your pocket until you arrive at a village where disposal is possible; if inside a private house, ask permission before throwing anything into a fire. 47. Improper garbage disposal increases the population of vertebrates which, in high densities, become sickly. 48. Trash facts: an aluminum soft drink or beer can will last for about 495 years; steel items for 95 years; ordinary plastics for 220 years; glass could last 1 million years. So doesnt be a refuseink; pick up other peoples litter too! Article 5 Responsibilities of Mountain Guides and other Leaders MAXIM Professional mountain guides, other leaders and group members should each understand their respective roles and respect the freedoms and rights of other groups and individuals. In order to be prepared guides, leaders and group members should understand the demands, hazards and risks of the objective, have the necessary skills, experience and correct equipment, and check the weather and conditions.

1. The guide or leader informs the client or group about the risk inherent in a climb and the current danger level and if they are suitably experienced involves them in the decisionmaking process.

2. The selected route should relate to the skill and experience of the client or group in order to ensure it is an enjoyable and developmental experience. The Tyrol Declaration on Best Practice in Mountain Sports

Page 8 of 14

3. If necessary the guide or leader points out the limits of his or her own ability and where appropriate refers clients or groups to more capable colleagues. It is the responsibility of clients and group members to point out if they believe a risk or hazard is too great and that retreat or alternative options should be followed.

4. In circumstances such as extreme climbs and high altitude ascents guides and leaders should carefully brief their clients and groups to ensure everyone is fully aware of the limits of support that guides and leaders can provide.

5. Local guides inform visiting colleagues about the distinctive features of their area and the current conditions.

Article 6 Emergencies, Dying and Death

MAXIM To be prepared for emergencies and situations involving serious accidents and death all participants in mountain sports should clearly understand the risks and hazards and the need to have appropriate skills, knowledge and equipment. All participants need to be ready to help others in the event of an emergency or accident and also be ready to face the consequences of a tragedy.

1. Helping someone in trouble has absolute priority over reaching goals we set for ourselves in the mountains. Saving a life or reducing damage to an injured persons health is far more

valuable than the hardest of first ascents.

2. In an emergency if outside assistance is not available and we are in a position to help, we should be prepared to give all the support we can to persons in trouble as far as is feasible without endangering ourselves.

3. Someone who is seriously injured or dying should be made as comfortable as possible and offered life preserving support.

4. In a remote area if it is not possible to recover the body, the location should be recorded as accurately as possible with any indications as to the identity of the deceased.

5. Personal possessions, such as camera, diary, notebook, photographs, letters and other personal artifacts should be safeguarded for and delivered to the bereaved.

6. Under no circumstances may pictures of the deceased be published without prior consent of the family. Article 9 First Ascents

MAXIM The first ascent of a route or a mountain is a creative act. It should be done in at least as good a style as the traditions of the region and show responsibility toward the local climbing community and the needs of future climbers.

1. First ascents should be environmentally sound and compatible with local regulations, the

wishes of landowners, and the spiritual values of the local population.

2. We will not deface the rock by chopping or adding holds.

3. In alpine regions, first ascents should be done exclusively on lead (no prefixing from above).

4. After giving full respect to local traditions, it is up to the first ascentionist to determine the level of fixed protection on their route (taking into account the suggestions in Article 8).

5. In areas designated as wilderness or natural reserves by land managers or the local access committee, bolts should be limited to an absolute minimum to preserve access.

6. Drilling holes and placing fixed gear during the first ascent of aid climbs should be kept to a bare minimum (bolts should be avoided even on belay anchors unless absolutely necessary).

7. Adventure routes should be left as natural as possible, relying on removable protection whenever it is available and using bolts only when necessary and always subject to local traditions.

8. The independent character of adjacent routes must not be compromised.

9. When reporting first ascents, it is important to report the details as accurately as possible. A climbers honesty and integrity will be assumed unless there is compromising evidence.

10. High-altitude mountains are a limited resource. We especially encourage climbers to use the best style. Ethical issues can often seem ambiguous, and mountaineering ethics especially so to nonclimbers or those new to mountaineering. When asked to define them, even many climbers would have difficulty, although they know how they affect their activity when they do it. Mountaineering ethics are a set of ideals that act as parameters by which we conduct ourselves and they define our actions. They help us make decisions about every aspect of mountaineering, including where we climb, how we climb, how we treat our climbing environment and how we wish our sport to develop in the future. These pages attempt to define some of the core ideas in mountaineering / climbing ethics but, be aware that ethics are never static and are constantly evolving.