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1008
THE
American Garment Cutter
FOR
WOMEN'S GARMENTS
SECOND EDITION
Â
complete, practical, up-to-date
treatise on the cutting of
WOMEN'S GARMENTS
according
to
the latest and
most
approved method
AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY

PUBLISHERS NEW YORK - LONDON - PARIS - BERLIN - VIENNA
ir
,
"-
i.A
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o.\^
INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT.
Entered according to the act of Congress
1913
in the
year 1913
by
AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY

In the oHice of the Librarian at Washington. D. C.
All Rights reserved
Reproduction Interdite
Vervielfaeltigung Untersagt
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PrFfarp to
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First Edition of the
American Garment Cutter met with units
^^
precedented success, in reference both to

Ladies' Tailoring Trade as a
itself.
acceptance by the
excellence
work on
cutting par
and the demand for the book
The
call for this auxiliary instructor in
the drafting and cutting
of ladies tailor-made apparel by a practical, yet simple system, has
completely exhausted the First Edition; and in devoting ourselves to the Second Edition we have carefully considered the up-to-date needs
of the trade in
its
preparation.
ation of
Therefore, while fully covering the matter of detailed considerall standard garments, the taking of the measures, the cor-
rect drafting of the patterns, tables of proportions,
and other features

recognized the im-
so highly
commended
in the first edition,
we have
ject,
perative need of "modernizing," so to say the treatment of the suband while not getting away from the fundamental principles as
set forth in the earlier issue, the present work has been revised and supplemented with much new material and many illustrations, making it in every way a worthy successor to the First Edition.
in the satisfaction that this
work
will duplicate the successof the

it
American Garment Cutter, First Edition, we present practical use and consideration.
for
your
The Author,
GUSTAV ENGELMANN
DEDICATION
TO
the
thousands of Tailors throughout
the World
whose
this
lives
are
unselfishly
consecrated to the production of perfect fitting
garments for women,
work
is
dedicated in
the most cordial wishes of
The (Author.
Measurements
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.
PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS
WOMEN
Sizes
10
PROPORTIONAL WIDTHS
From 4Feet 4in.to 6Feet.
s-e
6 FEET
4FT.4IN.
Diagram
11
""
PROPORTIONAL LENGTHS
12

DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES.
manner
In taking a customer's measure it is absolutely essential that she be treated in such a that she feel perfectly at ease in every way, hence will assume her natural attitude. Act quickly but quietly; don't get flustered yourself; converse naturally with her, to take her mind from the fact that she is being measured, otherwise she will inevitably and unconsciously "pose," which will result in a misfit, meaning trouble, alterations, loss of prestige,
etc.
Be very careful in measuring to place the tape close to the body, neither too tight nor The success of the garment depends greatly too loose, and see to it that it is not crooked. on the balance, which the measurement alone can ascertain. It is therefore imperative that must again the body of your customer be in its natural pose when the measure is taken. impress upon you the necessity of so arranging matters that you will keep her body in its proper pose. It is a very common occurence that a person whose natural attitude is somewhat stfKjping will erect herself during the operation of measuring, which should be avoidTake special notice of the foregoing instruction. ed.
We
TAKING THE MEASURE.

Diagram
4,
-;*;,2.
N.
Diagram
4,
No.
FIR.ST Mark shoulder seam with two pins, one at 8, the other at 9. This is very important, and great care should be taken not to get this particular seam too far front or back.
SECOND Place tape high up under arm as line 1 shows, and mark with pins for shoulder height measure at 22 and 15 on front and 24-25 on back, directly under shoulder pins previously placed.
BUST MEASURE Move
measure.
tape
down
to
fullest
part
of
bust
(i)iiint
2)
and
take
W.MST MEASURE Draw

illl'
tape tight arcnind waist and lake measure.
ME.ASURE Move
tape
down
is
ure fairly tight.
Four inches lower
four (4) inches below waist to point second hip measure, puint 5.
4,
and meas-
NECK ME.ASURE Measure

.\CR()SS
around neck with
ease, not too tight nor yet too loose.
CHEST 21-20. From armscye to armscye across chest. NECK FRONT TO WAIST 6-2-3. From lowest point of neck measure
to fullest part
of bust to wraist front.
SHOULDER HEIGHT FRONT8-22

pins ])laced on bust.
and
9.15.
Measure from pins on shoulder
1o
SFK
)ULDER HEIGHT BACK8-24
and
9-25.
Measure from pins on shoulder

back
to pins
placed on back.
LENGTH BACK TO WAIST6-1-3. From collarbone to center of .'\CROSS BACK 23-n. From armscye to armscye across back. UNDER ARM Place the end of tape a little back of directly under
the measure to bottom of belt.
to waist.
the
arm
then take
Be very
careful to get this
measure long enough.
OUTSIDE SLEEVE 7-11-12-13. From

Take waist measure same
center of back to armscye, elbow and wrist.
SKIRT MEASURE.
as for jacket,
and
for hip
measure, 6 inches below waist.
LENGTH FRONT3-16 from waistband to floor. LENGTH SIDE 18-17 from waistband to floor. LENGTH BACK 3-19 from waistband to floor.
13
Diagram
4 No.
Diagram 4 No.
14
JACKET LESSON
Diagram
5
I.
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
41
15'
15
j
inches inches
inches
Underarm
Across Back
Shoulder Height Front
:,
Sjj inches
14 inches
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
inches inches
inches
Shoulder Heights Back
Neck
Length rrnnt of Waist
"'4
Neck Height and

Length
of
to Waist-. --7,'/4
7>^ 8^ 6
9>^
15jl'
5.>4
inches inches inches indies
17!.-
Shoulder
LMSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
A
C
B.
is
From
A
F
to to
is
7^
15^
inches, neck height in back.
From A
is
inches, length of waist in Ijack.

first hip.
E
F
to to
4 inches, the
is
4 inches, the second hip.
Square over points
C E F and B
on
line
A
1
B.
From C
This
1
to
is
3/ of bust
is
measure plus
inch.
In this case 20 inches.
inch
is
we allowed
lost in cutting out the pattern.
D
D G
C C
to
to to to
O
G
;^ inch allowed for breathing.

jS4
is
is is
of bust measure, in this case 5 inches.
H
Y
y^ of bust
measure plus lli
inches, in this case
inches.
254 inches.
}i,
This point changes
more or
less
according to larger or smaller
sizes.
to I is 7 inches, yi of
back measure.
Square point
and
H
I
up and down.
on
line
Square up points
D.
15
-^
-4^
^DO
-^Ê
-^DP
4)6
Diagram
16
JACKET LESSON
Diagram 6
II.
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
41
15 ,'4 15
. .
inches
inches
Underarm
Across Back
8j4 inches
14
. .
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
inches inches inches inches
inches
inches
Neck
Length Front of Waist.
.73.4
inches inches
7>^ Shoulder Height Back 6 8^4 Neck Height and Waist. .734 15^
Shoulder Heights Front.
.gYz
to
17>^
Length of Shoulder
5%
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
C
6 inches, the second shoulder height back. 834 inches, the first shoulder heiglit back. Square over A and P on line A B. In squaring P over point R is found crossing line I.
to
is
Y
R
to
is
to
is
>4 inch.
Draft neck
At
front,
G X
2 inches. Square over point

1
to to
is
is
S, inches. and draw back shoulder Square point 3. to 3 is 7^4 inches, second shoulder height front. over IJ-j inches to point 31. 9y2 inches, first shoulder height from. Square point
A O
5^
to 27.
.
Draft neck curve from 31 to 27.
Draw front shoulder from 31 to 3, 5)4 inches, Z to 2 is 7-54 inches, ^ of chest measure.
the
same
as back shoulder O. S.
Draft armscye from S through H, 2 to 3. In drafting armscye be very careful not to go inside of line I. R. Also do not bring it below the f)ust line. It is very important to follow the draft of armscye very carefully and get the shape as near as possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is too large while a small armscye can easily be made larger.
I7
31^^)X
-^Ê
-i^T
4b
Diagram 6
18
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN
TIGHT BACK LOOSE FRONT.

Diagram
7
MEASURES.
Bust 38
25
41
inches inches inches
Underarm
Across Back
9>^ 6
8j/ inches
14
Waist
inches
Hip
Across Chest
15j/ inches
15
Shoulder Height Back
Neck
Length Front of Waist
7^4
inches inches
Neck Height and
to Waist.. ..7j4
7>1 8yl 15/4

5-)4
inches
inches
inches
17j4
Length of Shoulder....
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
E to J is I'/j inches in all cases. ly4 inches. This measure varies J4 inch according to larger or smaller size where the back is tight fitting with two gores. Waist measure 25 inches, 34 of same is 6^4 inches, which must be divided into Jj back and two equal gores. to L is 1 inch. L to 7 is 7 inches. As we only need 5 inches in this case, the otiier 2'4 inches are taken out The remaining 5 inches are to be divided equally into in two darts oi 1% inches each. two gores of 2j4 inches each. L to 4, 2y2 inches; 4 to 5, l^s inches; 5 to 6, 2y2 inches; 6 to 7, lH inches. 1'4 inches. On hip line measure from F to Draw center back from A through J to \'. Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure inch to 15, no allowances to be made for point 10. Fake the center of 4 and 5, s(]uare dowi> where line crosses on hip, measure y^ inch to 7S and inch to 74. Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure j^ inch to 13 and yi inch to 14. 28 to 30 is inches length of underarm measure.
At waist
line
J to
is
Sy
waist line from L to 30. R to T is 2^4 inches. Draw guide line from K at waist line to T. Go out from guide line on bust line 1 inch to U. Shape back and side gores as shown. Measure hip from to 10, 15 to 74, 75 to 14, 13 to 33, which is 203'j inches, j/j of hip measure. 33 to 18 is iy> inches. This 1^4 inches is taken out in the front dart at waist line between 9 and 8. Measure back neck O, which is 2y2 mches. Place this 2y> inches at front neck on point 32 to 27, which is 15 inches neck measure. Draw center front line from 27 through to 18 to length of coat. 27 to is 7% inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 173^ inches. Length waist in front. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. To place dart, measure from at waist line to 9, 3^4 inches. Take out from 9 to 8 1^4 inches. This l^^ inches we allowed from 33 to 18. On front bust line from Q measure over 3)4 inches, and from this point down to measure 3j4 inches. Take the center 8, 9, draw a line up to W, down and shape dart as diagram shows.
Draw new
19
Diagram
20
TIGHT BACK LOOSE FRONT COMPLETE.

Diagram
8
MEASURES.
Bust
......38
inches
Underarm
Across Back Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height Back
956
8^
14
inches
inches
Waist
25
.
inches
inches
Hips
Across Chest
41
15j4 inches
15
....-8%
Neck
inches
Neck Height
Shoulder
to
Waist
7>4 6 7j4 15>4

5^
inches
inches
inches
jnches
INSTRUCTIONS.
How
to
make garment double

line
breasted.
Measure from front
18,
2 inches to 26, 71 and draw
line.
For buttons measure the same distance back from front

in
line
18 and
mark buttons
as
shown
diagram.
1
To
obtain collar and lapels measure from the deepest point of neck, 31 to 23,
inch.
Draw
a straight line from the bottom of lapel 26 through 23 to 24.

is
32 to 21
2%
line
inches, ^4 inch
more than
the neck
measure
A.
'
Square on
35 to 36
is
26, 24.
ly^ inches, to 25 for standing band and 3 inches to 35.
yi inch for spring.

line of collar
Shape back
from
25, 24, 21 to 36.
Shape
collar
and
lapel as
diagram shows.
Place separate paper under collar, trace out according to shape of collar.
To
trace lapel break on line 26, 24, turn paper under
and trace out the shape of
lapel,
which
will
be reversed on oppositie
side.
21
11
12
Diagram
22
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOME^f
TIGHT FITTING JACKET WITH

Diagram 9
TWO
DARTS.
INSTRUCTIONS.
Bust
v^8
inches inches inches inches inches inches
Underarm
Across Back
8^
14
inches
inches
Waist
23
-
Hip
Across Chest
41
IS^/^
Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height Back
9_^
7y2 inches
8^4 inches
Neck
7'4
15
Neck Height and
to Waist.... 7J4
17^

5J4 inches
15/4 8J4
inches inches
Length of Shoulder
MEASURES.
front. Follow same instructions as given in First, Second and Third Lessons with exception At hip line measure from \' to 10, 15 to 74, "5 to 14, 13 to 18, which is 20>4 inches plus 1 inch. This 1 inch is taken out between the two front darts at hip line, j/j inch in each. Draw center front line from 27 through O 18, slightly shaped to 71. 27 to D is 734 inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 1734 inches, length of waist in front. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. which is 34 of back measure, on point 30, and measure over 12; 2 inches Place the 6^4 inches 01 waist measure. to point 63, which is is 3 inches. 63 to
i
These 3 inches are divided equally' into the two front darts at waist to 62, 2 inches. To place darts, measure at waist line from
line,
of
inches each.
62 to 63 is 134 inches. 63 to 9 is 1 inch. 9 to 8 is 134 inches.
On
front bust line
From
from D measure over 3^ inches, and from this point down 3 inches to U. measure over to 234 inches, and from this point up to the bust line 23/ inches,
which gives us the height of Take the center of 62 and 63 from waist line to 57,
darts.
at waist line,
draw
a line tip to
and measure 6 inches down
the center of 8, 9 at waist line, draw a line up to ^V, and measure down 6 inches from waist line to 58. The first dart where line crosses on hip measure J4 in'^h to 59 and 34 i'l*-"!! to 60. The second dart where line crosses on hip measure 34 in.i-'h to 16 and '4 v\<:\\ to 17 and shape dart as diagram shows. at the waist line to 54. 1 incli. To make garment double breasted measure from
Take
At neck 27
to 52
is
inch.
opposite line from 71 through 54, 54 to 53 is 134 inches. 71 to 55 is 234 inches. Shape front as diagram shows.
Draw
to ^1, ^2 to 51
is
4 inches.
inch. To obtain lay down collar, measure from the deepest point of neck 31 to 23, Draw line from 27 through 23 to 24, 32 to 21 is 2-'4 inches, '4 ini-'li more than the back neck
1
measure. A O. Square on line 27, 24, I34 inches to 2't< for standing band and 3 inches to Z'h. 35 to 36 is 34 inch for spring. -Shape the back of collar from 25 through 24, 21 to 36, as shown in diagram.
Diagram 9
24
TIGHT FITTING BACK LOOSE FRONT FRENCH SEAMS.

Diagram 10
MEASURES.
Bust 38
-
inches inches
inches
Underarm
Across Back Shoulder Heights, Front
9>^
8>4 inches
14
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
-5
41
15>2 inches
15
Neck
inches
Neck Height and

Shoulder
to
Waist. ..734
854 6
7]/2
1-^>^
inches inches
5^
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given French seams.
in the First,
Second and Third Lessons,
vvitli
the exception of
Back shoulder O to T is 3 inches. to S is 2.>4 inches. At back bust line C to U is 3^ inches. Shape the back and side gore as aiagrani shows. At front shoulder 32 to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder 22 to 20 is 2 inches. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. 20 to 19 is 2^4 inches, the same as back shoulder T to S. Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19.
to T.
On
front bust
'line
to
is
334 inches.
Shape the front as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted measure from the front ime O 18. 1 inches to 26, 71 and draw line. For buttons measure the same distance back from front line Q 18 and mark buttons as diagram
shows.
To obtain shawl collar and Draw a line from the botom
lapel,
measure from the deepest point of neck 31
to 23,
inch.
of lapel at 26 through 23, 24. O. more than back neck measure inch inches, is 34 21 32 to Square over on line 24, 26, 134 inches to 25 standing band and over to 35. 35 to 36 is 34 inch for spring. Shape back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 30.
2M
collar and lapel as diagram shows. Place separate piece of paper under collar and traced out according to shape of collar. To trace out lapel break on line 26, 24, turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will be reversed on opposite side. at bust line and meet the two the two front gores, lay pattern together on point out Cut points on shoulder 22 and 20. At neck point 32 raise 34 inch and point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder line from 11 through 3 to 40.
Shape

2B(a.
25
24
Diagram
10
26
TIGHT FITTED JACKET FRENCH SEAMS.

Diagram
h
8>4 inches inches 14 Jyi inches 8yi inches IS^/^ inches 5)4 inches
MEASURES.
Hust
38
-
Waist Hips Across Chest
1-
25 41
IS"/
Neck
/yl
17^
15
inches inches inches inches inches' inches
L'nderarm Across Back 9^^ Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height Back 6 Neck Height and to Waist....7>4 Length of Shoulder
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given front and French seams.
in the First,
Second and Third Lessons with the exception of
Back shoulder
to S,
2%
to inches.
T
is
is
3 inches.
On
bust line
to
3)4 inches.
line crosses
At hip measure from F to V, 1J4 inches. Take the center of L K square down, where
to
10.
5,
on on
hip, hip,
measure measure
)'s
inch to 15, ji inch

7:i,
Take
Take
the center of 4,
to 74.
square
down where
line crosses
yi inch to
î inch
the center of 6, 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure ^4 inch to 13 and y?, inch to 14. Measure hip from \' to 10, 15 to 74, 75 to 14, 13 to 18, which is20| inches J/ of hip measure These 2 inches are taken out at the front dart at hip, between 16 and 17. plus 2 inches. 28 to 30 is inches underarm measure. Draw new waist line from L to 30, shape back as diagram shows. Measure back neck O, which is Zyi inches, place these 2>4 inches on front neck at point 22, measure to 27, which is 15 inches neck measure. 27 to is 7'/i inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 17^ inches, length waist in front. through Draw front line from to 27 and down from .M to 18 slightly shaped to /I. Draw new waist line from 30 to J\I. Place the 6J4 inches, which is 34 of waist measure, in back on jwint 30. measure over 12y2 inches, which is '/j of waist measure jilus J inch, which gi\es us point V.
8^
9 to
is
These
2"/^
214 inches. inches more than the natural waist measure are taken out
8.
in
front dart
between 9
and
22 to 20
is
to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder O to T. 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on ])oint 3, which gives us point 20 to 19 is 2)4 inches, the same as back shoulder T S. Reshape arniscye from 28 through H to 19. At front bust line O to is 3^4 inches. Shape the front as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted, measure from j\I at the waist line 1 inch to 54. At neck 27 to 52 is 1 inch. Draw opposite line from 71 through 54 O to 52. 52 to 51 is 4 inches.
At front shoulder, 32
19.
71 to 55 is 2J/2 inches. 54 to 53 is 1^ inches. Shape the front as diagram shows. Cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together at point points on shoulder 22 and 20. At neck point 32 is raised "4 inch. Point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to -10.
at
bust
line,
and meet the two
27
Diagram
11
28
REGULAR COAT SLEEVE.

Diagram
12
MEASURES.
Bust 38
7 inches inches
To Elbow
Full
19>4 inches'
Half of Back
Length
29>4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
A B. A
to
is
3^ of back measure, 7 inches.
A
1
to
is
l9'/2
inches to elbow.
to
is
full length, 291/- inches.
M
to
is
to
is
y^
of bust less
inch,
3,1/.
inches.
Square over
pletes
is
1
all
given points.
sleeve. to
M
N
is
J4 of bust, 9 inches.
Square down S to H.
This com-
box for
the center of
M
'/^
.S.
Square
inch.
L
3^2
is
Vz inch.
to
is
inch.
to
N to R is
O, 2V2 inches.
inch.
M
is
to
to
y^ of
bust plus
inch, 5
inches.
is
the center of
H.
Square down
line
J/
inch to
J.
to
is
inch.
Draw
from
through J to E.
J to
is
Sy^ inches.
to
is
6,'/
inches.
Shape undersleeve from
GRO N U
lu V.
Top
sleeve
from
G R PO I C E.
This completes coat sleeve.
29
Diagram
12
30
HOW
TO MAKE SLEEVE WIDER AT TOP.

Diagram
13
INSTRUCTIONS.
A
At
regular sleeve
is
inch from
to C.
to
I,
in this
case
is
3^
inches.
At elbow IK' inches C

top.
to
is
IK' inches, in this case 3 inches.
Shape as shown.
31
Diagram
13
HOW TO MAKE REGULAR
SLEEVE SHORTER OR LONGER

14
Diagram
INSTRUCTIONS.
Keep
elliow in
er,
I
same
place.
The doUcil
line
is
the original sleeve.
This sleeve
is
2 inches short-
inch at top and bottom.
At
top,
A
is
to
1
E
to
is
inch.
to
inch.
At bottom,
H
I
is
inch,
is
1
to
is
inch.
is
1
At undersleeve,
to
inch,
1
to
inch.
to
is
inch, J to
is
inch.
The heavy
line is the correct length.
To make
sleeve longer, the

sleeve follow
same way, add
inch on top and
inch at bottom.
12,
For regular
same instructions
as given in
diagram
page 28.
33
Diagram
14
34
BISHOP SLEEVE.
UlAlJRAlM 15
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
A^B.
A
to
to J is
is
4>j inches, yi of bnst measure.

of bust measure, 9 inches.
J to
is
{
E
of bust measure,
')
inches.
B
_'
Square over
ail
given points.
to K.
to
is
16 inches,
inches less than yj of bust measure.
Square dovn
This completes box for sleeve.
Take center of
to
K B,
yi
which gives us point T.
Square down
I
T
V^
to
3 inches.
is
inch;
i
to
1'
and
to
is
inch
O
1
is
the
distance of
D to O A E.
and P
Square up
to
inch.
to
is
2/4 inches;
to
is 3}'4
inches.
Shape sleeve as shown.
35
Diagram
IS
36
SEMI-FITTING
WITH UNDER GORE.
DiAGRAJI 16
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
-
Underarm
Across Back
Shoulder Height Front.Shoulder Height Back.9j^
6
8J4 inches
14
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
41
15j^ inches
15
Neck
7y^
inches inches
Neck Height and

Length of
to Waist... .734
8)4 15^4
/J/j
inches
inches
173/^
Shoulder
5^
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
back.
in the First
and Second Lessons,
witli
the exception of
the
At waist At hip F
line
to J
is
34 inch.
to
34 inch.
Draw
center back line from
through
to 79.
This garment
is
cut with a center back seam.
At back shoulder
.At
to
is
434 inches.
10 inches.
waist line from J to 7

to 6,
1
is
Measure from 7
inch.
vj^
Take
the center of J 6. and from this point measure

line crosses
of an inch to
anfl ^% of an inch to L.
Where
on
hip,
measure 34 of an inch
7,
to 10,
and 34 of an inch
to 15.
Take the center of 6 and

Yi,
square up to 28 and down, and where line crosses on hip measure
to 13
is
and
}i,
to 14.
28 to 30
834 inches length of underarm.

waist line 30 to L.
Draw new
Shape the back gores as diagram shows.
To
draft front, collar and lapel, follow instructions given in diagram 19, page 42.
37
Diagram
i6
38
SEMI-FITTING
COAT WITH SEAMS AT

Diagram
17
SIDE
AND SAILOR COLLAR.
MEASURES.
Bust
38
-
inches
inches
Underarm
Across Back
8J^ inches
14
inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
-
25
41
inches
9^
8^4
lYi inches
inches inches
15>4 inches
15
,
Neck
Length Front Waist
7j4
inches
inches
Neck Height and
to Waist. ..-7>4
17>^
Length of Shoulder
15J/'
5-^4
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
rôllow instructions as given in First
and Second Lessons.
At waist
to J
is
'i inch.
Draw
center back line from
to J
through
\'
to length of coat.
At back shoulder,
At
waist, J to 7
is
to
is
AYz inches.
10 inches.
From
Take
7 to 6
is 1
inch.
7,
3,^
the center of 6, inch to 13 and
square up to 28 and
of inch to 14.
down where
line crosses
on
hip,
measure
>4
of
At waist
and '/& line take the center from J to 6, and from this point measure y% of an inch to Square down from this point where line crosses on hip, measure J4 of an inch to L. of an inch to 10 and Yi oi an inch to 15.
is
28 to 30
8^/2
inches length of underarm.
Draw new
For
wâist line
from L
to 30.
entire front follow
same instructions
as given in the semi-fitting coat, with the exception of
shaping the seam to armhole.
Shape seam
to
armhole instead of shoulder.
Take out
JS
inch at armhole.
collar
Shape as diagram shows.

and
lapel follow
To
draft front, 'sailor
same instructions
as
given in
the
semi-fitting
coat with shawl collar.
39
4zL-#f
-n*
m
DIA^;KA^^
-#B
17
40
LOOSE SEMI-FITTING COAT.

DlAGKAM
18
MEASURES.
Bust 38
23
41
151-^
inches inches inches inches inches
Underarm
Across Back
._
8>1 inches
14
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
Neck
15
9^ 7>2 Shoulder Height Front 6 834 Shoulder Height Back Neck Height and to Waist -.7 1^34
"4
7^ 17j4
inches
Length of
Shoulder
5)4 inclics
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions
as gi\en in First
and Second Lessons.
At waist
line
to J >j inch.
Draw
center hack line from
through
\'
J
to length of coat.
At back shoulder
O
Y
to
is
3 inches.
T
(
to
2-I4
inches.
line
)n
hack bust
to
.\t
back waist
to to
line J
U is 2 to K is
inches.
inches.
3-':^
K
L
L
6
is
34 inch.
5 inches.
is
is
6 to 7
-H of an inch.
Take
the center of
K, square
down where
line
crosses on hip, measure 34
i'l^'h
io
10
and
34 inch to 15.
Take
the center of 6 and 7, square
up
to
28 and
down where
line crosses
on
hip,
nteasure
-J^
of an inch to 13 and
inch to 14.
28 to
30
is
8^2 inches
waist line
underarm measure.
to 30. as
Draw new
Shape the two back gores

For the
front, lapel
collar.
diagram shows.
and
collar follow the
same instructions as given
in
the semi-fitting c-oat with
shawl
41
Diagram
18
42
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR.
Diagram 19
MEASURES.
Bust
38 25
41
15J.-2
:
Neck
7^ 17^
15
Underarm
Across Back Shoulder Height Front 9j/2 Shoulder Height Back 6 Neck Height and to Waist-.-7i4 Length of Shoulder
inches inches 7^/2 inches 8j4 inches ^15>^ inches 5^ inches

S'/i
14
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same At waist line
instructions as given in the First
and Second Lessons.
Draw
to J is inch. center back line from through J
\'
to length of coat.
The back T to S is
shoulder,
to T,
is
3 inches.
2'>4 inches.
back bust line Y to U is 2 mches. Measure at back waist line from J to K Z-}^ inches. K to L, j4 of an inch. L to 6 is 5 inches. 6 to 7 is 1 inch. and L 6 is 7^/4 inches, Ijj inches more than '4 of the natural waist measure. J, Take the center of L K, square down wiiere line crosses on hip, measure J4 inch to
On
10,
^^2
inch
to 15.
the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure of an inch to 13 and ^/g, of an inch to 14. 28 to 30 is 83/' inches underarm measure. Draw new waist line from L to 30. Shape the two back gores as diagram shows. Measure hip from to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to ^3, which is 20J.2 inches, j-i of nip measure, 23 to 18 is !/> inches. These I'/i inches are taken out between the dart on hip line, 16 and 17. Measure back neck, O, which is 2'/: inches. Place these 2' 2 inches on point 32 on front neck, and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure. Draw front line from througli IS to 45. 27 to is 73^4 inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is U'/i inches, length front of waist. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3 inclies, the same as back shoulder, T. From on front bust line measure 3H inches to W. At waist line, to 9 is 3 inches. 9 to 8 is 1>4 inches. At hip, 18 to 17 is 4 inches, and 17 to 16 is H/> inches. 22 to 20 at shoulder is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on 3, which gives us point 19.
Take
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. To make garment double Ijreasted measure from front
line.
line
O Q
18, 2 inches to 26, 71
and draw
diagram
For buttons measure the same distance

shows.
Ijack
from front
line
18 and
mark buttons
as
To
obtain collar and lapel measure from the deepest point of neck. 31 to 23 is 1 inch. Draw a line from the bottom of lape! at 26 through 23 to 24. 32 to 21 is 2^4 inches, 54 inch more than the back neck measure, A O. Square over on line 24, 26 1J4 inches, to 25 for standing band, and over to 3S. .Anv desired width of collar. 35 to 36 is 34 inch allowed for spring. Shape back of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. Shape the collar and lapel as diagram shows. Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out collar according to shape. To trace lapel break on line 26, 24, turn ]5aper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will be reversed on the opposite side. How to cut out the two front gores. Lay pattern together at point at bust line and meet the points on shoulder 22 and 20. At point 32 on neck raise 34 inch. Point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to 40.
4^
DlAC.NAM
19
44

SEVEN EIGHTH FITFING COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE
Diagram 20
MEASURES.
Bust Waist
Hip Across Chest
Neck
..8;^
52 39 52 18 18
17
Underarm
Across Back Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height Back Neck Height to Waist Length of Shoulder
11
17 9
7
9'^-
8 -,-17
S'i
Draw line A, B. A to C is S'/i inches. waist in back. E to F is 4 inches the first hip. F to B is 4 inciics the second hip. Square over points C, E, F and B on line A, B. C to D is yi of bust measure plus 1 inch in thi-; c.ise 27 inches. This inch we allowed
1
INSTRUCTIONS. A to li V'/i inches, length
is
iost in cut-
ting out the pattern. to Q is J/^ inch allowed for breathing. D to G is J4 of bust measure, in this case 6^ inches. G to is ]/s of bust measure plus lyi inches, in this case A-Ji inches. C to Y in a regular 36 size is 2}i inches; we allow ^g more for each size in this case, which is 3J4 inches. C to I is 8^ inches, "X of back measure. Square points D and up and down and square up points G, I, Y on line C, D. .\t back, C to P is 7 inches, second shoulder height back. Y to is 9J-2 inches, first shoulder height back. Square over A and P on line A, B. In squaring over P point R is found crossing line I. R to S is 1 inch, in this case according to the length of the shoulder. Draft back neck, O, and draw back shoulder, to S. At front, to 3 is 9 inches, second shoulder height front. G to is 11 inches, the first shoulder height front. X to 32 in a regular 36 size is Ij^ inches. allowed 14 more for each size, in this case it is 2]/^ inches. X to I in a regular 36 size is 2 inches. allowed 1/16 of an incli more for each size, in this case it is 2"^ inches. Square point 1 to 27 and draw a line. Draft front neck curve from 32 to 27 and draw front shoulder from 32 .to 27, 6% inches, the same as back shoulder, S. Z to 2 is 9;/2 inches, yi of chest measure. Draw arm scye from S through H, 2 to 7. .\t back shoulder to T is 3% inches. T to 29 is '/^ inch taken out. This yi inch we add on point S, 29 to S is 3 inches. take out this 1/2 inch between T and 29 when the figure is round across the back. On back bust line, Y to is 2 mches. .\t waist line E to J is J^ inch. J to 4 is 14^4 inches; in this case we only need 11^ inches, which is The other 2^ inches are taken out between the darts J4 of the waist measure plus lyi mches. 30 and 38, L and K. is 4 inches. .K to L is 1 inch. L to 38 is 7!4 inches. 38 to 30 is 1}4 inches. J to 30 to 37 is lJ/2 inches. In this case, in order to place the seam direct under the arm so the two jide gores will be equal. and L 38 is II14 inches, which is Ij^ inches more than of the natural waist measure which we J,
We
We
We
allow in
all
fitting coats.
the center of L, K; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, J^ inch to 15 and of an inch to 10. Take the center of 6 and 7; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, 1^4 inches to 13 and }4 inch to 14. From the center line of L, at bottom measure 6 inches to 44 and 4 inches to 43. From center line of 6 and 7 at bottom measure 4 inches to SO and 6J4 inches to 81, 28 to 30 is 8 inches length of underarm. Draw a new waist line from L to 30 and shape the two back gores as diagram shows. Measure hip from to 10; IS to 14; 13 to 33, which is 26 inches, !i of hip measure. 33 to 18 is 3 inches. These 3 inches less i/o inch are taken out between tlie front dart at hip line 16, 17. This yi inch less we leave in on all stout figures. Draw front line from through 18 to 45. At neck, from 27 to Q is SJ-^ inches, the highest point of chest. is 16 inches, length waist in front. 27 to Draw new waist line from 30 to M. At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3% inches, the same as back shoulder, O, T. 22 to 20 is 3 inches taken out in this case when the figure has a high chest. These 3 inches we allow on point 27 which gives us point 40. Shape arm scye from S through 28 to 40. At bust line D to is 4 inches. .At waist line to 9 is 3)4 inches. 9 to 8 is 2 inches. .\t hip line 18 to 17 is 4^ inches. 17 to 16 is 25-2 inches. .Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. For double-breasted, collar and lapel, also how to lay pattern together and cut out, follow the same instructions given in diagram 19, page 42.
Take
45
#2-^
Diagram 20
46
HIPLESS COAT
Diagram
21
MEASURES.
Bust
38
23
41
l5'/2
inches
inclics
I'nderarin
8y^ inches
14
93^2
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
Across Back
inches
Shoulder Height FrontShoulder Height Back
Neck
7;4
15
Neck Height and

Length of
to Waist-. --7^4
7/2 8J4 15>j

S-}^
inches
inches
inches
inciics
17j^
Shoulder
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions for box. as semi-fitting coat Diagram 19. Our natural waist line is E to S2. Go un 21-2 inches, which is point W. to J is '/2 inch; J to K is 3'/4 inches; to L is 'ji inch L to 10 is Syi inches; 10 to 12 is 1 inch; 30 is half of L to K. Square down to 14. 11 is half of 10 to 12; square up to 9 and down to 18.
(^n line 30
14
to 13
come out on hip ji to 41, _ to V; on and shape gores as shown in (hagram.

',
line
18
come out on hip
:ys
to
17;
Length front of waist from U to 4 is 15 inches; draw waist line 4 to 12 and take out between 3 and 2, 1 inch complete coat according to diagram. For double breasted collar, and lapel follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42.
;
47
24
23
Diagram
21
48
LOOSE STRAIGHT LINE COAT.

Diagram 22
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
41
inches
inches inches
Underarm
Across Back Shoulder Heights,
Front
9>2
8}^ inches
14
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
inches inches
ISy? inches
15
Neck
Length Front Waist
inches inches
Neck Height and

Shoulder
to Waist....
/.
834 6 7j4
/'/i
inches
inches
15!'2
^j-i
7% 17>'j
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
in First
and Second Lessons.
From V
From E
J to
at
waist line measure up I'j inches to
and square over.
to J
measure Ja
inch.
K
L
6
is 5
is is is
inches.
inch.
K
L
to to
1/2
3->4 inches.
'/>
6 to 7
inch.
Take the center of L

10,
and square down, and where
line crosses
on hip measure
'4
inch to
and
'2
inch to 15.
7,
.^g
Take
the center of 6 and
square up
lo
2S and
down where
line crosses
on hip.
Measure
28 to 30
^
is
of inch to 13,
of inch to 14.
7 inches underarm measure.

as
Shape the two back gores
diagram shows.
in semi-fitting coat,
Follow same instructions for the front as given

length in front, which
is
with the exception of the
16 inches.
This coat
is
cut without a lap.
49
Diagram 22
50
MONTE CARLO BOX COAT.

Diagram
2}
MEASURES.
Bust
38
.25
inches
inches inches
L'nderarm
.\cross
8J/2
inches
inclies
Waist
Back
10'4
14
Hip
Across Chest
41
Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height Baci<
ISyi inches
-
Neck
13
inches
Neck Height and

Length
of
to Waist.. /j^l
&/i inches 8>4 6^ inches 13j/ inches

5^
inches
Shoulder
INSTRUCTIONS.
It
is
necessary after the regular shoulder heights are taken to allow an extra jj inch on front shoulder, ^-^ inch on back shoulder.
in First
and Second Lessons.
Length of
coat, S2 inches.
At waist
line
from
1')
to
is is
y'j
inch.
Draw back
line
from
.-\.
through
to
13,
On
bust line from

22.
.^
to
22
2 inches.
4.
is
1
Square poitU
which locates point

line
For back part on waist
from 4
to 6
inch.
13.
Draw
straight line
from 22 through 6
from 18
to
to
1
This completes
l>ack.
At front on
hi]j line
is
inch.
Draw
front line
from
11
through
O M
to full
length.
For front part on hip from 4
to 7
is
inch.
10.
Draw To
straight line
from 22 through
line, as
7 to
Connect 10 with
16,
Allow \y2 inches from box
shown
at
bottom.
place dart at shoulder, measure from (j on bust line, i-V^ inches over, from this point 1>4 inches to W,
to 8
is
down
At shoulder from 9
12,
2 inches
3.
8 to 14
is
3 inches taken out.

5 to 3.
These 3 inches add on point
which gives us point
Reshape armscye from
In cutting out the dart place dart together at shoulder, points 8
14.
Square over shoulder,

This coat
is
raise shoulder yi
inch to point 9
8 14
to 3.
cut without a collar or lap,
'
51
Diagram
2^
52
TWO-PIECE COAT.
Diagram 24
MEASURES.
Bust 38
25
41
inches
Underarm
Across Back
9^^
8J^ inches
14
inches
inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest

inches
15^
14
TYi,
Shoulder Heights
Neck
Neck Height and
to
7y2 Back 8^4 6 Waist... 7^4
15'/2
17>4
inches
Length of Shoulder
S^
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions for box, only as semi-fitting coat.
BACK.
1.
square
to 15
2.
to J at waist line is I inch, J to down to 14 full length of

is
5 inches
;
garment
and K to L 1 inch 23 is one-half of K and L; from F to 43 is one-half inch at hip line 14

;
XYi inches; 14 to 16
is
5 inches;
to
22
is
inch.
Draft back from 22 through distance on armscye S H

inch from
43J
;
now
to A and 15 through to T T is about half the is draft part of your front from 16 through
;
W K
V V
;
to T.
FRONT.
1.
Measure underarm 83/2 inches from H to 1 and length front waist 17J/2 inches from U 8 and draw from 8 to L take out on line H between 1 and 2, Ya, inch and make dart
; ;
to
to
front dart place directly under bust, taking out about 3 about 4 inches below waist line 1 inch from 5 and 6, making point 4 about 3>-j inches below bust line and point 7 about 7 inches below waist line.
2.
10 to 9
to
is J^ inch; now draw front line of jacket from 9 through to 12; place button stand, line 11, 2-3-4 inches back from front line 12 and double breasted front line 13 20, 3 inches forward and add from 20 to 19 and 18 to 17 1 inch for turning in.
is
1^
inches;
to
and down
COLLAR.
Bring your shawl collar down to about 2 inches above waist line front draw a straight line up from 20, going in at X about 1 inch, and up to 34 from X, 2V\ inches, which is neck length back O A; square points 34 to 35, I34 inches and to 32, 3 inches; add for spring of collar back, from 32 to 33, Ya inch.
;
Draft under collar from 35 through 37 to 38 draft shawl effect from 20 to ii as shown to get spring of collar draw a line 30 36 and make 27 and 31, 1^ inches from 30 and draft curve to 36 break line 34 20 under and trace shawl 20 38 y? to get front shawl
;
20-3937.
53
B 2S
17
18
Diagram 24
54
LOOSE BOX COAT.

Diagram 25
MEASURES.
liust
Waist Hip Across Chest

-
Neck
Length Front Waist
7^
inches -3 inches 41 inches 1?/j inches inches 15 173<2 inches

-î"^
iiderarni
Syj inches
Across Back 10 Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height IJack Syi Neck Height and to Waist. 7^4 Length of Shoulder
8 6j4
14
inches inches inches 153^2 inches 5% inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
It is necessary after the regular shoulder heiglits are taken to allow an extra Ij inch on front shoulder; ^s ine-h on back shoulder. From .\ to C is />'_> inches, neck height in hack. Draw a line to 15, which is 52 inches.
.\
ISyi inches, length of waist in Ijack. 19 to L is 4 inches, the first hip L to F is 4 inches, second hip. 15. Square over on points C 19, L F and 15 on line From C to D is >4 of bust measure plus 1^ inches, in this case 20>^ inches. to G is 34 of l>ust, in this case 5^^ inches. is 3^ inch allowed for breathing. D to of bust plus l',2 inches, in this case 4 1-16 inches. U to Tis
to 19
is
;
to 20 is 234 inches. This change of yk inch more or less is according to larger or smaller sizes. C to 1 is 7 inches, yi of back measure. Square points D and 5 up and down on line C D. Square up points (i I and 20 on line C I). C to P is 63/4 inches, the second shoulder height back. 20 to O is 8>2 inches, the first shoulder height hack. Square over A and P on line A 15. In squaring over 1^ point R is found cmssing R to S is >^ inch. Draft neck A O and draw back shoulder from O to S, which is .1^4 inches. inches, second shoulder height front. .\\. front, from 5 to 39 is 834 Square point 39. G to X is IO34 inches, the first shoulder heiglit front.
line
I.
Square
Draw
shoulder from 29 to
to 29, 3 inches for this style coat only. 4, which is 5-Ki inches.
Square down X to 1, 2 inches. S(|uare over point 1 to 27. of chest measure. Draw neck curve from 29 through 27 to 24. From Z to 2 is 7->4 inches, Draw armscye from .S 28 5 2 to 4. Draw front line from 24 through Q J\I to 40. This com])letes the box. At back waist line measure from 19 to 17. '2 inch. Draw straight line from .A. through 17, K, 16 to B full length. inches to 28. .\t the back shoulder from S measure 43^ At waist line in back measure from 17 to 8, 6/2 inches. .\t second hip measure from 16 to 18, 7 inches. Draw straight line from 7 down through 18 to 13 and up from 7 slightly shaped tlirougli 8 to This completes the back part. 28. from 8 to 9, 2 inches. I<"or front part at waist line measure Draw a straight line down from 9 to 10 and up from 9 to 28. To place dart in coat at shoulder measure from O on the bust line 3!4 inches o\er, and from this point down measure 1 inch to \\ from 33 to 14 is 3 inches taken out. The.se 3 inches .\t top shoulder from 32 to 33 is 2>^ inches, are added on the remaining shoulder from_14 to 3. To place the dart under the arm. measure from 5 to 6. 1 inch, and 6 to 41. 10 inches. Take the center of 6 and 41 and shape out ;4 inch each side as shown in diagram. To make garment double breasted, collar and lapel, follow diagram 19, page 42.
how much spring the collar requires, lay the liack part of coat shoulder to shoulder on the front part, which is shown in diagram indicated by ditto marks. Square over from the back line of coat A C. From ])oint C to 36 is 634 inches plus '^ inch, which is the amount required for spring. Place the spring in the collar by drawing a line through the center of collar at the top of shoulder
In order to find out
.Allow
from point 30 to 12. from 12 to 22, ^y^ inches, and from 12
to
11. ?i^2
inches,
which
gi\-es
us the
amount of
spring required. Trace out the front part of collar from 30 to 22 to 37 to 30. Trace the back part of collar from 30 to 11, 36. 21. 34 to ,iO. which gives us the two parts of collar, as shown in the lower diagram of coat.
55
Diagram
56
ULSTER WITH SEPARATE SKIRT.

Diagram 26
MEASURES.
Bust 38
23
41
inches
inches
L'nderarm
Across Rack
SjA inches
14
inches inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
inches

Shoulder Heights
F)aci<
Oyi
15>2 inches
13
Xeck
7}i
inches
inches
Length Liack
Shoulder
to
Waist
7X' 8^ 6 7]4 15^
inches inches
17>^
5^4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draft the same as tight fitting jacket to first hip. except back, which is straight down lo The l)ack of this garment is always open full length of garment. 58 inches, to point 49. ^nd has a plait as shown.
2.
Cut jacket through between waist and hip as shown 15

Skirt
:
13,
or any other shape desired.
3.
measure
continuation of box as shown. 35 to 41 is hip to 41 is same measure as 15 54. From 36 to .\t fullest part of hip take out a dart in V shape 2 35 is waist curve same as 15 to 13. inches 31 32, and make same about 4)'! inches deep, which seam is covered with a pocket, as diagram shows.
first
Draw
and second hip
lines, a
less back, distance
54^V.
36
4.
From
35 to 47 is a straight line coming slightly out at bottom. The sweep at bottom is Measure 42?4 inches from 49 to 46: 2j4 times bust measure, making same 4234 inches. 47 to 50, wl'.irb is the point given by meisure. Connect 36 witn 50 and add plait as shown 36 34 and .5048. 36 to 50 is the length 15 to 46, and after obtaining this point shape sweep from 50 to 47, as diagram shows.
5.
Collar
Turn down
collar.
The
rules are
same
as notch collars, with the exception of shajie,
which follows as diagram.
57
Diagram 26
58
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN LOOSE COAT RAGLAN SLEEVE
Diagram 27
MEASURES.
Bust
38 25
Neck
7]/^
inches inches 41 inches 15^ inches 15 inches 171/2 inches
Underarm
Across Back Shoulder Height Front IQShoulder Height Back S''^Neck Height and to Waist. ...714 Length of Shoulder
14
inches inches 8 inches 6J4 inches 15>4 inches 5^ inches
8^
INSTRUCTIONS.
coat follow same instructions as given in the loose coat. For raglan, the back part. Draw a line from C) to the side of armhole. Place the square on that line, and let the right angle rest on S, which produces point 11. 11 to 21 is 1 inch. Shape the top of shoulder from U, 21 to T. The forepart, to 7, is 1 inch. 7 to 5 is j-x inch. Draw line from 5 to 18, place the square to that line and let the right angle rest on U, which produces point 24. 24 to 23 is 1J4 inches. 18 to 8 is ^/^ inch. Shape the shoulder from 8, li to 5. From' I to T is inches, same distance as the back sleeve, D to I. Place a notch at T and a notch at 5. .Measure the distance on the straight line from T to t),
I<"or
2%
which is 8 inches. Measure the distance from 8 to 5 on the straight line, which is 10;/> inches. Measure the distance from 18 to .^. in this case 5)4 inches, the length of shoulder.
This completes the raglan.
PLAIN SLEEVE
AND RAGLAN
Diagram 28
MEASURES.
Bust Half of Back
.'....i8
inches
7 inches
Length Length
to to
Flbow
Wrist
:
.
19^^ inches
2934 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
to is 7 inches, y^ of back measure. a line .A B. .\ to L is 1914 inches, length to elbow. 8 to B is 29yj inches, the length to wrist. Square over points M, L and B. to S is 9)4 inches, 34 of Inist measure. Square S down, which gives us point H. to is J4 of bust measure less 1 inch, in this case 4-?4 inches. Square over to point Q. N is one-half the distance between .S and .M. to I is 1 inch. Square over point I to C. to P is J4 inch for top sleeve. T to is 1 inch. R to is 3^ of bust measure plus 34 inch, in this case 5'4 inches. to is 1 inch. is the center of and Jj. Draw line from to J is 3^ inch. through J over. For undersleeve P to J is 3)4 inches, and G to E is 6 inches. .At top of sleeve to is 2)4 inches. Shape top of sleeve from I, O, 1^, R, G, E, L lo I. Shape the undersleeve from Q, R, E, G, \". I', C to O. This completes the plain coat sleeve.
M y
H K
For raglan sleeve

inches.
to
is
the
same distance
as the top shoulder of coat
from
to
18
10)4
inch less than the distance from T to () at the liack ]irt of raglan. This '<( inch eased over the shoulder in back. Sweep at point backward, pivoting at point Y. Sweep from point A forward, pivoting at point I. Sweep from jioint 8 backward and forward, ]iivoting to 8 is 5)4 inches, length of shoulder. at point O. This marks two cross lines, one through X and F. X to 9 is ]'l inch. F In 10 is '4 inch. This is the 34 inch taken ofl' from IS lo 8 at top shoulder front. Shape the top of sleeve from O to 10 and O to 9.
1
to
is
is
Draw
1
a straight line from to and from I to F. is 1 inch, and shape the sleeve from through 2 to X. 4 to 3 is )4 inch, and shape the sleeve from T through 3 to F. From 6 to 7 is 1 inch, from 5 to 6 is )4 inch. Dotted line shows where the sleeve is cut through with a seam on top, as .shown in diagram.
to 2
59
Diagram 27
Diagram 28
6o
HOW TO PLACE DART IN FRONT OF RAGLAN

Diagram 29
It is
necessary in all loose coats to place a dart from the shoulder to the bust line, in order to In this case cut out the entire front of raglan, give the garment proper fit over the bust. Measure over from the center front lay another piece of paper under for a new front. line at point 3 on the bust line, 3^/4 inches to 4.
5 is
4 to
IJ^ inches below the bust line.
From
point 5 square a line

line
down
to the
bottom of the
coat, as the dotted line
shows.
Split this
open up to
.^.
To
place dart, at shoulder measure from the top of neck over to 1, 2 inches. Connect 1 with Pivot on point 5, open the shoulder from 1 to 2, 5, and cut through on this dotted line. 2 inches for dart which swings the bottom of coat from 8 to 7 and 9 to 10. Mark out the entire coat from A to neck, 1. 2, to 6.
8,
Pivot at point 6, swing point 10 back to 9 and 7 to placing the dart at shoulder.
which gives us the same fullness before
Reshape the bottom, which gives us a drop
at the
front part of coat, as the diagram shows.
61
Diagram 29
62
HOW TO MAKE A RAGLAN FROM A BLOCK PATTERN.

Diagram 30
LOOSE COAT.
IXSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
is
from il
1
to 2.
is
the deepest point from armscye.
41 to 39
inch. to
"hi.
Shape from 2 through 39
Back
part.
Draw
line
from
to T.
T
38
is is
the deepest part of armscye in Ijack.
about the center of O. T.

to
Square over 38
yj
inch.
Shape as shown.
For double breasted
collar
and
lapel,
follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42.
63
Diagram 30
64
HOW
TO MAKE A COAT WITH A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK

PATTERN.
Diagram
31
Lay pattern together
as diagram shows.
To
place a seam under the arm, measure .Square 5 to 6, 11 inches.

2 to 8
is
down from
the front neck, 3 to
5,
8 inches.
At bottom, from
This
16^2 inclies, and draw line from 6 to 7 to
8.
may
be cut in a one piece coat or with a seam as desired.

to 7 is 4 inches.
if
At armhole, from 6
It
may
be cut higher or lower
desired.
collar
Shape armhole as shown. For double breasted given in diagram 19, page 42.
and
lapel
follow
same instructions
as
65
Diagram
31
66
DRAFT SLEEVE FOR DEEP ARMHOLE.

Diagram 32
Draw
line
to
to 7
is
5^ of bust measure, 4J4

inches,
to 2
is
1
inches
7 to
is
18>2 inches,
distance
full
length
to 7 at
sleeve; 7 to 9
is 3-34
inch less on each inch
we go down
from 6
underarm of coat; 9
1^
inches; 8 to
11 to C,
is
1^4 inches.
Draw
a straight line
from
to 11,
from
from
to 5,
and from C
to 4
is
5 inches.
Shape sleeve
as shown.
67
DDiagram 32
4)B
68
COLLARLESS SEMI-FITTING KIMONO COAT.

Diagram 33
MEASURES.
Bust 38
25
41
inches
inches
Underarm
Across Back
85^
14
nches
nches
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
inches
9>'^^
6
Jj/j
nches
IS^^ inches
15
8>4
ISyi
nches nches nches
Neck
inches inches
Neck Height and

Length of
to Waist.. -.7>4
7% 17j^
Shoulder
5)4
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow diagram 19, page 42 for a semi-fitting coat. This coat is cut with an underarm gore and body. From 28 to 62 is 1 inch. 62 to 50 and 54 is l-j4 inches. Square up at 62 17^^ inches to 67, length of underarm gore. Square over from 67 to 68 and 66, 1 inch. Connect 68, 50, 66 and 54. Connect 50 with 64 and 54 with 64, and this completes the undregore of body. Cutting a collarless coat you always allow an extension from the natural neck line. we allow lyi inches raise for the back and front of neck.
In this case
Back neck,
Neck
Raise
to 53, point, 32 to 56.

-)4
to 52.
inch of the back shoulder from
to
51, for side
back gore.
Draw
line
from 50 through
to 61, 6 inches.
62 to 63 is 33/2 inches. From 60 draw a line through 63 to 60, which is \7}.'2 inches, length of undergore sleeve. Square on line 60 50 to 58, 6 inches. 60 to 59 is 1>^ inches. Now shape sleeve 52 through T, 51. 61, 58, 59 through 63 to the side gore from 50 through 6 14 to the length of coat over to 44 up through 15 L and T. This completes the side gores as diagram shows.
THE FRONT SIDE GORE AND SLEEVE.

Draw Draw
a line a line
from 54 through 1 to 65, 6^ from 54 through 63 to 98.
inches.
Square over on 98 to 47 4 inches. 47 to 48 is lyi inches. This lyj inches we lost between 22 and 20 on front shoulder. From 98 to 46 is I3/2 inches.
line from 46 to 54. Reshape sleeve from 46 slightly curve through 63 to 54. Shape sleeve and body from 20 through 3^0 65 down to 48 over to 46 front from 54 30 13 the length of coat over to 12 up tlirough 16 8 and This completes the sleeve and front side gore. To make garment double breasted. Go out from the front line 2j/2 inches and the same distance back for buttons. At neck, 55- ^27, take out 1 inch and shape as diagram shows. This completes the diagram.
Draw
side of body, 20.
C9
66
67
68
Diagram
3)
70
SHAWL COLLAR CUT WITH SEAM ON SHOULDER. SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN.

Diagram 34
INSTRUCTIONS.
At
.\t
neck,
inches.
from 16 to 23 is 1 inch. Draw line from 26 through 23 Shape collar from 12 through break line to 7.
from
5 to 3 is V4
to
13.
From
l.-i
to
12
is
1^4
front shoulder,
to 4.
inch allowed for spring.
Draw
line
from 12
20
13
side.
Trace out front part of collar
-I
13
12
7 to 4.
13,
To
trace out lapel, turn paj)er under on line
2f>
and give the shape of
lapel
on opposite
Between
This
l''or
j/\
14
13
take out
44
inch.
.Shape dart
down
5 inches to 9.
collar.
inch
we
lose
add on
lapel at 19 to 17.
This completes lapel and front part of
coat. back part of collar, 13 to 24 is break line. 26 24, any desired length for collar, in case 15 inches to Place the neck curve, 20 22, as shown in dotted line. dotted line.
2y2 inches, the neck measure of back
Square over on
11,
as
shown
in
l'"or
stand band of collar, from 24 to 2?

1
is
1''4
inches.
.\t
back shoulder, from 2 to

collar
is '4
i'l"-"!!
raise for spring.
10 to 11
is
''4
inch raise for spring.

12 to 4.
Shape
on
l)ack
shoulder, 12 to
2.52-1
iS,
making same length

1
as front shoulder.
Shape back
collar
from
22 10 l^S 20 13 12,
as shown.
Diagram 34
72
SET ON COLLAR
AND
LAPEL.
SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN.
Diagram 35
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
.\t
line
from 26 to 16. Break line. Draw

is
16 to 23
line
is
inch; 22 to 20
is
I34 inches.
Draw
line
from 23
to 26.
20 to 26.
inch allowed for spring. 4 to 5 is 3 inches taken out for close-fitting collar over arm.
front shoulder 7 to 8
line
Draw
from 20
237
to 4.
Shape front collar from 26 to 5 For back part of collar 22 to 24
723 20 down
is
to 26.
line
26 over
to 3,
23^ inches, neck measure of back. Square on lireak as dotted line shows, any desired length, in this case 21 inches.
coat 21
24
Place the neck curve of the back part of from 24 to 25 is 1J4 inches. At Draw line on back shoulder from 11 to 12 is 3 inches taken out. 3
jî
17, as
shown
in
dotted
is
line.
For stand band,
back shoulder, from 10 to 9

17 to 11,
to
1
making same
inch spring.
20, as
lapel
34 inch allowed for spring. length as front shoulder, 17 to 4.
is
Shape back collar from 25

For front part of
coat,
23 26 16 and cut away on on

24 21
12
17
shown.
on same
line of coat,
line
set
26 to 20.
Diagram
35
74
TWO
PIECE
KIMONO COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN.

Diagram 36
INSTRIXTIONS.
To
place the
is
seam of coat under the arm, take
off tlie front

1
to 2.
inch.
10 to 11
from
.\t
Draw straight line from to 11. The distance 2 inches. E 1 2 and 11 10 add on the underarm of back coat, D
N M.
we take
oft'
the
front
front measure from 3 to 4, 20 inches, square over to 9, 26^ inches, square 6 to 3 is 2'^ inches. to 7 7 '4 inches square over 7 to 8. 2'i> inches.
line
up on
line
-I
Draw
from
11
Ct
9 8
\()

1.^
14.
This completes the front.
BACK PART.
I'Vom
to
is
19 inches.
I
Square over
<)\er
to
1)4 inches.
I
to J
25^4 inches.
Square up
to
is
P)4 inches.
to
is
J to
8 inches.
Square
inch raise.
Draw
line
from
ML J
BA.
This completes the back part.
75
Diagram 36
76
LOOSE FRONT JACKET
3-8
INCH SEAM ALLOWED.
Diagram 37
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
41
.'
L'nderarni
83^ inches
14
inches inches
Waist
Across Back
9}^
Hip
Across Chest
15^
15
Neck
7
inches inches
Xeck Height
Length of
of Waist
7^ 8J4 6 714 15^

5%
17
Shoulder
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw C D
line
A B. A
is
-*ii-'-^
is bust line; C to height back E is waist

;
7^
inches, length in back;
to
is
inches, second shouldei
From E
2.
first and second hip points. Square to F and F to points A, P, C, E, F, on line A B. of bust measure jilus 3 inches, which is allowed for seams. to is 22 inches, or to is 5 inches, Y^ oi Yz bust measure, 20 inches, and square up. is 4 inches, Y& G to of Y2 t)ust measure plus \Y2 inches and square up and down. C to I is inches is inches, and square up. across back, and square up. C to Y to is 8f^ inches, first shoulder height back. R to S is 1 inch. to 3 is inches, and intersect point to 1 is 2Y inches; square line 1 to get neck line is 9^/;^ inches; with line. G to front. Z to 2 is 7-]/\ inches (chest measure plus seam.j
and 16 inches from A. B are 4 inches apart, which are

line,
D G
7^
2^
7^
Draft neck curve back A O and shoulder back O S. Shoulder front, line X to line 3 same length as back shoulder, O S. Draft armscye, starting from S through
is
H
L
the
to line 3.
3.
for back line. is to J is 1J4 inches, and connect J with J to inch L to 4 is 3J4 inches 4 to 5 is 1 inch 5 to 6 is 2>Ya inches and The proportions for gores as just given are the same as escribed in
1
; ;
; ; 1
1%
inches;
K
1^
8,
to
is
6 to 7 is diagram
inches.
page
8,
with the exception that Fine center of K L, 4
4.
10 and 15 are 34 inch from center line; 11 and 12 are Y?, inch from 1J4 inches. center line; 14 is 3,^ inch and 13 is 34 inch from center line. Draft gores and back through just given points as diagram shows. Afeasure hip the same as The front collar and described in previous lessons, allowing 3 inches more for seams.
to
is
6
5,
of an inch
7,
allowed for seams. and square down.

is
lapel,
including the dart, are the same as described in diagram
8.
77
Diagram)?
78
NINETEEN-GORE CORSET JACKET.

Diagram 38
MEASURES.
Bust 38
25 41
Underarm
Across Back
Shoulder Height P>ont
10'4
Syi inches
14
inches inches
inches
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
15jX inches
15
Neck
inches inches
8)4 Shoulder Height Back Syi Waist. 7>4 15^^ Neck Height and
63/4
to
inches
7^ 17>^
Length of Shoulder
5->4
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
The
box, shoulder lieights, collar and front are exactly the same as previous jacket lessons, with the exception of divisions of waist and hip.
2.
Waist:
37 without seams in back. E to J is J4 inch and is straight up and down to to 42 is yi inch; L is yi inch; L to 41 is l'/4 inches; 41 to inch: to is to Vs J is 1J4 inches; 42 to 22 is yi inch; 22 to T is 1)4 inches; T to 30 is V4 inch; 30 to 40 is lyi inches; 4 to 5 is 1 !4 inches; 5 to 6 is lj4 inches; 6 to 7 is 1 inch; 7 to 8 is ly4 is lj4 inches inches 8 to 9 is Kj inch 9 to 34 is 1 J4 inches 34 to 33 is ^^ inch 33 to Increase and decrease width of gores for larger or smaller sizes. to LT is ->4 inch.
W
3.
Divide
L 41^M 42 22; T 30; A 5 into half and draw straight lines down and up and down between 4 and 5. From these guide lines just obtained, measure on fullness over hip on each ôre. Allow for this fullness J4 inch on each side of guide line, as is
; ;
readily seen in diagram.

4.
mt^fx
The seams on shoulders
are 2 inches apart and are cut through by gores y^ inch is to be 38 show. 19, 20 15, 16 taken out in darts on hip line in front, as 14 17, 32 Now measure hip, applying the same rule as in previous lessons. Length of this jacket to suit customer.
7Q
Diagram
38
80
ETON JACKET.
Diagram 39
MEASURES.
Bust
-
.38
.25
inches inches
Underarm
.\cross
8>2 inches
14
Waist
Hips
.
Back
9>4
..41
inches
Across Chest
15>4 inches
15
Neck
7^4
inches inches
Neck Height
of ^^'aist
8j4 6 7}i 15>4

/'/z
inches inches
17^
Length of Shoulder
Si/i
INSTRUCTIONS.
2.
in
diagram
80. except the front.
From
18 front line D add 1 inch to 27, and draft line as shown through just given The dart 8 to 9 is 2j/ inches wide and 3 inches below bust points to give vest effect. line. The bottom of Eton may be made to any desired shape.
This Eton shows a heavy braid trimming around the edges.
8!
DlAGI^M 39
82

RUSSIAN BLOUSE.
Diagram 40
MEASURES.
Bust
-58
2:i
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
41
Neck
Length Front Waist
7]/^
15/^ 15
1/J^
Under Arm 8>^ 14 Across Back 9j^ Shoulder Height Front 7>^ 8^ 6 Shoulder Height, Back Neck Height and to Waist....7>4 15>4 Length of Shoulder 5^
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given in First and to J is l>j inches. At waist line 7 is 9>4 inches. to J In this case we need 634 inches, which is ]A, of
Second Lessons.
The other 3j4

J
l':\ inches, the waist measure in back. inches are taken out between the two gores, L, K, lj4 inches, 6, 7,
2-
inches.
K is 3^4 K L is l>i
L
6
is
inches.
inches.
and 6, 7, is 2 incnes. 614 inches, y^, of waist measure in back. 6 is L and J, K At back shoulder, S to 29 is AVz inches. 28 to 30 is 8^2 inches, length of underarm measure.
3 inches
waist line from L to 30. Shape back gores as diagram shows. From the box line at the first hip in front measure from 78 to 18, 3 inches. Draw front line from 27 to 18 27 to D is 7 inches, the highest point of chest.
Draw new
17 inches, length waist in front. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. To place dart measure from D on front bust line over 4 inches, and from this point measure down to W, 3 inches. to 9 is 6>^ inches. 9 to 8 is 2 inches. inches. at the top of dart measure down to 69, From point
27 to
is
From tv measure down
to 70, lYi inches.
Shape dart at bottom of blouse as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted measure from 18 to 71, Yi inch. 71 to 26 is 6 inches. From box line to 26 is V/z inches. Shape the front from 71 to 26. To obtain shawl collar and lapel measure from the deepest point of neck, 21 Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24.
to
22s,
inch.
32 to 21 is 2j4 inches, Y^ inch more than back neck measure, A O. Square over on line 24, 26. 1^4 inches to 2,^, standing band, and over to 35. 3.'i to 36 is 34 inch for spring. Shape the back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. Shape collar and lapel as diagram shows. Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to shape of collar. To trace lapel, break on line 26, 24. turn the paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will be reversed on opposite side.
TO MAKE SKIRT.
Draw
line
from 6
to 8,
which
is
!4 of luist
is
Square up on
8 to 7
is
line 6. 8 to 9,
which
measure, 9^/2 inches plus K' 'nch. which is 10. inches, which Y% of bust measure, 4y4 inches plus 1J4
is
6J4 inches.
and shape waist from 9 through 7 to 6. 7 and 9, 12^' inches, J4 of waist measure. What remains over is eased in at the waist line. Measure down from waist line to dotted line 4 inches to 14, 15. Measure 14, 15 20t inches, ;4 of hip measure. of an inch from 14 to 11. Come out from front line on hip 6 to 17 is 18 inches at front and 9 to 12 at back is 8 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows. Draw front line from 6 to 11 to 13. To make inverted pleat measure from 9 to 10, 2 inches at the top of waist line.
3 inches,
6,
Measure from
At the bottom 12 to 16, 4 inches. To form inverted pleat take up on
line 9. 12,
and meet center back
line,
10,
16.
83
Diagram 40
84
TIGHT FITTING JACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT.

Diagram
41
MEASURES.
Bust 38
25
41
inches
Underarm
Across Back
Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Heights Back
9j/2
83^ inches
14
Waist
inches
inches
inches
Hip
Across Chest
lYz inches
inches
inches
155^ inches
15
8J4
Neck
7
inches inches
Neck Height of Waist

Length of Shoulder
6 7^4 15>^
17
5^4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
For making jacket use exactly the same rules and descriptions used in tight fitting jacket. Diagram in this instance shows a separate lapel, and is made exactly like the tight fitting Also notice that jacket is jacket, with the exception of the shape of collar and lapel. cut through from back gore, point L to front of garment point 40, to which separate skirt
is
fastened.
Skirts
Square points ii 32 from 23. li is 34 of bust measure plus 1 inch, 4 inches all around waist, making hip from Z}> through 31 to 2)1, which is 3<2
2>2
is
3-2
to 2>1> is 34 of bust measure, 9^^ inches; 23 to 5j4 inches. From ZZ to 10 and from 32 to 13 is measure. 23 to 31 is 3 inches. Draft waist line K. of waist measure, less back. J
10 to 19
all
inch;
draw
line
down through
around from waist Hne.
19 from ii\ make skirt 8 inches deep and 8 inches .^dd plaits on back to correspond with jacket, which com-
pletes diagram.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTEK FOR WOMEN.
85
19(3>
Diagram
41
86
LOOSE FRONT JACKET WITH TIGHT FITTING VEST.

Diagram
42.
MEASURES.
Bust
38
-
inches
Underarm
Across Back
Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Heights Back
'.
8>4 inches
14
inches
Waist
2i
41
inches inches
Hip
Across Chest
9^^
7y2 inches
inches inches
inches
ISYi inches
15
Neck
inches inches
Length Back
Length
of
to
Waist
7^ 17^
Shoulder
8^ 6 7^ ISj/^ 5^
1
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Follow tight titting jacket for back, side gores, back gores, and front, then shape gores and back to any desired length as diagiam shows.
Using the center front of the tight fitting jacket, shape vest as diagram shows, about 2 The vest in this diagram is the shaded portion of drawing. inches below waist line.
2.
Measure for shawl collar 1 inch from deepest point at neck line 23. and draw straight Now draft line from neck curve line from bottom of front point .^3 through point 40. front line X to 21 upward and make this distance the same length as neck curve back A C), giving point 21. Placing square on line 53 2Z, draw a line from 21 through
Draft shawl, starting at point S2> to top of collar (neck back) and draft under collar from point 25, touching shawl as diagram shows.
point 24 to 25.
Break
line 24 53 by turning paper under and trace shawl toward front as diagram shows. Place separate piece of paper under the under collar and trace out according to diagram. The vest must be traced out the same way by laying paper under front.

25 24
87
Diagram 42
88
LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST.

Diagram 43
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25 41
inches inches
Underarm
Across Back
Syi inches
14
inches
inclics
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
inches
15>4 inches
15
Shoulder Heights Back-
Neck
inches inches

Length of Shoulder
8^4 6 7% 15>4
Dyi
7l'j
7^ 17^^
5^
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Use Lesson No.
for box.
fitting vest.
9
3,
Shoulder heights and armscye are same as tight
From
4
to J J to
is 2 inches, and shape as shown. waist measure, 6y4 mclies. E is held in with strap. Measure from 5 to 9, 6^4 inches, of waist, distance from 9 dart 9 8 2^4 inches, and shape dart as shown.
5 to
is
34
18
must be taken out
i;
4.
Collar
is
the
same
as described in
diagram
4L

25,
89
24
21
)A
)P
Diagram 4)
90
TIGHT FITTING VEST.

Diagram 44
MEASURES.
Bust 3S
-
inches
Underarm
Across Back
..
8J/2
inches
inches
Waist Hips
Across Chest
25
41
inches inches
inches inches
14
15'
Neck
Length Front of Waist....
7>^
15
7^4 Shoulder Height Back., 6 834 Neck Height and Waist.. 734 1534
Shoulder Heights,
Front
93^
to
inches
inches
inches
1/3/2
inches
Length
of
Shoulder
5^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Use Lesson No.
for box.
7 inches, length in back; P to C is SJ4 inches, second shoulder height back; square is Gyi inches, 34 width of back. line S is about 1 inch from F P to is C to R; to is 234 inches, which distance changes; 234 inches, this distance to is 8 inches, first shoulder changes 34 inch more or less for respective sizes
to
is
and P on
height back.
is 9 inches, first shoulder height to 3 is 7 inches, second shoulder height front G to front I is 2 inches from X, this varies according to measure, allowing 34 inch more for E to J is 1 inch connect J with A, and larger sizes and 34 inch less for smaller sizes. shape slightly as shown.
; ; ;
Draft
line
Draft
line
A O. X 27.
is
Connect
O
1
with
S.
3 to line
is
same distance
as
O S.
The dotted
.\rmscye for vest

line
always
inch larger
all
shows the jacket and the heavy

is
line all
;
around than the regular jacket. around it the vest armscye.

is
J to
334 inches
to
is
inch
to 4
2->^
inches
4 to
5 is
2 inches
now
draft
gore
in
back as shown.
fitting jacket.
Front and darts are same as tight
Allow for button stand
inch.
Draft bottom to any shape desired.
From
27 on neck diagram shows a standing collar.
91
Diagram 44
92

EMPIRE JACKET.
Diagram
45
MEASURES.
liust
-
-58
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
-
25 41
15/
15
Neck
7^17/
Syi Underarm 14 Across Back 9>4 7/2 Shoulder Height Front 6 Shoulder Height Back 8}i Neck Height and to Waist....7>^ IS/ Length of Shoulder Sji
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same
instructions as given in the First and Second Lessons
is
Our
natural waist line
V.
line
Measure from the natural waist
up 2
inclics to E.
L
J
to J is is to
K
6
K
L
to to
is is
/ inch. 3/ inches. ^ of an inch.

5 inches.
1
G to 7
is
inch.
Take the center of L

measure
Square down where line crosses on first hip 5. inch to 15. Where line crosses on second hip, measure J-4 of an inch to 38 and 1 inch to 39. to [J is 2 inches. On bust line, Shape as shown. to T is 3 inches and T to S is 2-}i inches. At back shoulder, 28 to 30 is 6/ inches underarm measure. Take the center of 6 and 7, which gives us point 9. Square down where line crosses first hip, measure Ya inch to 14 and }'4 inch to 13. Where line crossc-; s.'' -(-nd hip, measure J4. mch to 37 and 1/ inches to 29, and shape a^ shown. of hip measure. Measure hip from 8 to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to 33, which is 20/ inches, 17. 33 to 18 is 1 inch allowed. This 1 inch is taken out between the dart on hip line, 16
K,
inch to 10 and
Measure back neck,
AO, 2/ O
inches.
Place these 2/ inches oii point 32 at front neck and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure. through 18 to length of coat. front line from 27 to D is 7 i inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to 4 is 16 inches, length front of waist. Draw waist line from 30 to 4. T, At front shoulder, ,32 to jZ2 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder, on front bust line measure 3/ inches to W. From At waist linefrom the center front line measure 4 inches to 50.
Draw
Take out, between 50 and At hip line, from 18 to l7,

17 to 16
is
1
51,
is
4/
of an inch.
inches.
inch.
to 20, 2 inches are
At shoulder, from 22
us point
19.
taken out; these 2 inches
we add on
point
3,
which gives
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. To make garment double breasted, measure from front line, O 18, 2/ inches, to 26, and for Mark buttons as dia18. buttons measure the same distance back from front line, gram shows. Cut garment bias. In order to have garment without a seam from the waist line down, lay the front part of garment together at point 50 to 51 and cut in one, as shown in the illustration. inch. To obtain collar and lapel, measure from the deepest point of neck, 31 to 23, Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 32 to 21 is 2-K inches, or }4 inch more than the neck measure, A O. Square over on line 24 26 1/ inches to 25 for .standing band, and over to 35 any desired width inch spring for collar. for collar. 35 to 36 is Shape back of collar from 25 24, 21 to 36. Shape the colar and lapel as diagram shows. Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out collar according to shape. To trace lapel, break on line 26 24, turn paper under and trace out shape of lapel, which will be reversed on the opposite side.
9)
Diagram 45
94
HOW TO MAKE NORFOLK JACKET FROM BLOCK PATTERN

Diagram 46
INSTRUCTIONS.
Use a block
pattern, cut the
pleat,
box
pleat any desired width, in this case 2 inches wide
when
finished.
To make back box

Allow 2
inches,
1
draw
straight line the length of coat,

3
which
is
19.
which gives us points

1
2 to
pleat
is
inch.
At bottom, from 19
line 3
to the
by creasing on seam of coat.
For under pleat allow at top from 3 to 4, and 20 and 18 to 17, 1 inch. This forms the under 17 20 18 and 2 A 19, turn under and stitch together 1
18.
to
Draft front box pleat from the front of block pattern. 22 to 33 is 1 inch 33 to 6 is 2 inches 6 to 5 is 1 inch. At bottom, 14 to B is 1 inch; 14 to 15 is 2 inches; 15 to 16 is 1 inch. Form the front pleat the same as back pleat.
;
,
To make
to
measure the distance from 39 to 38 37 to 34, which is the same distance from 11 9 and 12 to 10. Square over on line 9 10 to front of coat, from this point allow Shape belt as diagram shows. yi inch to 7, and IJ^ inches to 8.
belt,
For front
collar
and
lapel, follow
same
instructions as given in diagram 19. page 42.
95
96
NORFOLK JACKET
Diagram 47
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
41
inches
inches
Underarm
Across Back
Syi inches
14
inches
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
inches
9>^
8>4
/^^ inches
155^ inches
15 7
SH
inches
inches
Neck
inches inches
Neck Height and

Length of
to Waist....7>4
ISj^
17
Shoulder
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
On
For complete box follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. back bust line from C to LI is 4 inches, LT to T is 2 inches. At waist line in back, from E to J K^ inch. Draw line from A through J to full J to K, 3 inches.
length.
K
L
to L, }i inch.
to 5, 2 inches. inch. 5 to 49, 49 to 7, 4 inches.
7 to 6, -H inch.
Take center of L K, square down where this line crosses on For second hip, measure .>4 inch to 15 for back part. gore in back, square up and down from points 5 L. For third gore in back, measure from point 48 on hip M
inch to 10.
Take center of 6 7, square up and down where on hip, measure ->^ inch to 14 and ji inch
is
this line crosses
to 13;
28 to 53
Syi inches, length of underarm.

line
Draw new waist
from L
to 53.
Shape gores as shown.
To
draft back yoke, measure from

to 55.
C on back
bust line
inch
Fake center of second gore on bust line, measure J/ inch down Shape yoke Point 29 is ^4 inch above bust line. to 54. from 55 through U-54 T 29. Measure hip from 56 tr 13 to !<7 is yi of hip measure, 20/ 15, 47 to 48, 10 to 14 inches. From this point allow 1/ inches to 58, which is taken out between the two front darts at waist and hip line. Draw front line from O through 58 to 20.
From 27
From
to is 17 inches, length of waist in front, waist line from 53 to M.
Draw new
to on front bust line measure 3j/2 inches to W, and is 2 inches. Square down points and V to full length. Measure from to 17, 3 inches, and from V to 16, 2/ inches for height of darts. At front waist line from 37 to 9 is J4 incli taken out 38 to 8 is I inch taken out, same distance on hip. Shape gores as shown. To draft front yoke, measure from 4 on bust line, inch to 3, and re-shape armscye from 3 to 2. Shape yoke from 3 througli V to 34. For double breasted collar and lapel follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. Cut yoke from shoulder to bust line as shown in own in blouse shirt waist diagram. diagram 81, page 16 0.
Q V
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR

26
W OMEN.
97
18
20
Diagram 47
98
TO DRAFT NEW SLEEVE FOR DROP SHOULDER.

Diagram 48
MEASURES.
Half of Back
Full Length
/
inches
To Elbow
29'/2
19>4 inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
to
is 7 inches across back; A to L is 19>i inches, elbow length; A to of bust measure, less 1 inch, 3^ inches; I to is length: I to
is is
29>^ inches,
2 inches.
full
Square over
I to
all
the given points on line
A B.
is >it
bust measure, 9 inches.
N is ji of bust, 43/2 inches. N to O is 1>^ inches. Q to P is >4 inch T to R is inch R to W is >^ of bust measure H to G K to J is >4 inch. center of H B. Draw line from G to E. G to V is 3 inches. G to E is 6 inches.
Square
to
H.
M
;
to
is
inch.
is
the
The
distance
we allowed on shoulder from 43
to 4
and S
to 9
is
taken off from the top of sleeve.
99
Diagram 48
100
WOM:i:N.
SEMI-FITTING COAT.
WITH VEST AND DROP SHOULDER.

Diagram 49
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
41
15J/2
inches
inches
Underarm
Across Back
Syi inches
14
. .
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
inches
inches
inches inches
Neck
15
Shoulder Height Back 6 Waist. .y}4 Neck Height and

.g]^
to
7J/2
inches
inches
8^
15J/2
inches
7^4 17'/4
inches
Length of Shoulder
534 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. inch I to K is 4 inches K to L is -K inch At waist line E to J is
to 6
is
4^4 inches
6 to
is
inch.
Draw back
J point where crosses on square down from K which inch inch 10 and measure measure crosses on point where square down from Take center of 6 which 19
line
through
to
to B.
is
Take center of L
yi
11,
this
line
hip,
jf-j
to 15.
7,
is 5,
this
}i inch to 14
and
inch to 13.
Measure from 28
to
8>4
on
line
hip.
inches length of under-
arm.
Shape as shown. waist line from L to 19. At shoulder S to 38 is 354 inches; R to U is 1>4 inches. Shape back shoulder as shown. Measure hip F (o 10, 15 to 14. 13 to 33 ^4 of hip 20j4
Draw new
Square
inches.
line
to T, 2 inches.
33 to 18 allow l;4 inches. This 1>4 inches we lose in front dart between 8 9 at waist, 17 16 at hip line. Draw front line 18 full length. ?7 to is 17 'A inches, length of waist in front. Draw new waist line from 19 to M. to 9 is 5 inches; 9 to 18 is 1J4 inches. At waist from At hip 18 to 17 is 5% inches; 17 to 16 is 1^4 inches. Lose ^2 inch from 29 to 30. to 40 is 3 inches 29 is 2 inches above bust line. On bust line Re-shape arm-scye from 28 to 30. 34 to 3 is 2>4 inches. Square point 3, 234 inches to 4. Shape shoulders and gores as shown. When the front seam of coat is more to the side of coat, it is necessary to place a dart under the lapel in order to give more Chest. At shoulder 32 to 22 is 1 inch; 22 to 20 is 1^4 inches taken out. This 1^ inches add on point
Q M
34 to 43.
On
To
bust line
to
is
2-}4
inches.
Shape dart as shown.
To make garment
double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42, with exception of making a notch collar. Shape the front line from 41 on box line through O to 42. From this line draft Vest. measure out 1 inch for lap. Same distance back for buttons.
Shape vest as shown. Connect vest at 20 at shoulder; on front 9
17.
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WO MEN

26
101
DlAGR.\M 49
Collars
Leggins
Hoods
104
THREE-PIECE STORM COLLAR.

Diagram
50
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw line A C and B.

Divide Hne
B
is
8 inches,
J-j
of neck measure.
A
and
to
is
5!^ inches, and square Hnes lo
2. 3.
A B
into 3 parts,
making points
J to
I,
which points square up.

respectively
is
From D
from
to
line
K
I
Ij^ inches.
From Hne
the same.
points
E and F
}4
inch,
and
to
G and
is
4.
Now
shape collar as diagram shows.
CHILD'S
TURN DOWN COLLAR

Diagram
51
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw
32
30
line
33
35,
which
is
6^
is
2 inches; go in to 31
inches neck measure. From 33 to 32 is IVi inches; from '/> inch from 35 to 34 is 2 inches, the height of collar.
;
Now
2.
connect 32 with 35, 31 and 34.

to
From 34
from 26
to
29 is 2yi inches. 27 is 54 inch.
From 29
to
28
is
IJ/jinches.
From 30
to 27
is
3 inches,
and
Now
connect 28 with 26 31
32 with 35
34
with 28, shape as diagram shows.
10s
i)
1)
Diagram 50
Diagram
51
106
STANDING COLLAR.
Diagram
52
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw
up.
line 19
24
16 inches, neck measure, and di\ide into half for point 25.
Square point
23 to 21
2.
is
4 inches, and square to points 17

is
15.
is
21 to 22 is \y2 inches: 24 to 16 25 inch. 15 is
HX
inches; 19 to 18
D/j inches; 17 to 20
is
i/4
inch;
Now
connect points, as shown
in
diagram.
TURN DOWN COLLAR.

Diagram
53
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw
1
line
to
line
2. 3.
WT.
V
is
\V to V is 1>'2 inches; of neck measure, and square lines up. 8 inches, From V to U is 2'/!' inches, and y& inch from 2>4 niches, height of collar.
Connect
with
and
L'
with Z and shape, as
shown
to
in
diagram.
Take
center of line
ZXu.
tance as
and measure from
54 inch,
and connect with curve
line
Measure from Z
UT,
to
S 3 inches; S R is 1% inches; draw and shape collar, as shown in diagram.
line
R,
which
is
same
dis-
107
T(
108
HOW DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE

Diagram
54
TAKEN.
MEASURES.
Bust 38
25
41
inches
Underarm
.\cross
8J/2
nches nches
nches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
inches
Back
. .
14 .gyi
inches
inches
15^
15
... .7J4
Neck
inches
6 Shoulder Height Back Waist. .7>4 Neck Height and

to
7>2 SJ^
15I/2
nches
nches
17^
inches
Length of Shoulder
5?^
nches
INSTRUCTIONS.
First
Dolman
Take measure over arms, over fullest part of bust, as drawing shows,
:
2.
Second Dolman
standing
in
Take measure from center of back, 2 inches above waist to elbow of lady an easy pose, 3 4.
Inside elbow to wrist:
Take measure from elbow
to wrist,
5.
109
110
OPERA CLOAK.
Diagram
55
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25 43
15
-

inches
Across Back
13
inches inches
inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
Underarm
Shoulder
Shoulder
Heights
Heights
to
to
Front
Back
8
7
5^^ inches
ISyi inches
7J/2
Neck
1st
15>2 inches
Neck Height
Inside
Waist
Wrist
and 2d Dolman
46
10^
inches
Elbow
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw line C to A is
Square
A B. C
C
is
first
Dolman (measure overarm
at bust).
is
7 inches, length in back: second hip measure, 4 inches.

line
is
waist;
to
ISyi inches: F and
IS.
first
and
Divide 19 23 inches first Dolman; D to (J is >!> inch allowance for breathing. inches, 5/2 of bust measure, into quarters, which is 4-54 inches, and measure off from D to G. measure oif' Ys of 19 inches plus 1>2 inches; namely. 3j,s inches. From G to From C to I is 63/2 inches across back measure. Find center of I and H, which is point 7. bust measure plus 1 inch; namely, S-}4 inches. Draw line up on 7 to T, which is '4 of and D up and down, and up on I and G. Draw lines on to C is 7 inches, length in back. E to J is 1 inch. Draw line from J through C to J. C to P is 6 inches, second shoulder height back, and square off on line Measure from to N lyi inches. m is 8 inches, second shoulder height From P to R is G'/z inches, width of back Y to back R to I is 5% inches, first shoulder height in back. is 834 inches, second shoulder height in From P to R is 6v, inches, width of back; Y to back R to I is 6 inches, first shoulder height in back. From to 3 is 7% inches, first shoulder height in front. G to X is 9 inches, second shoulder height in front. X to 1 is 2 inches. This varies according to size, more for larger, less for smaller sizes. Square point 1 to point 27 and intersect line at 3. from line is the same as Point is 1 inch above bust line and 2 inches from line I O R and ^V T 4 to line 3. Now connect point 4. 27. X to line 3 is same distance as to R. Draft neck curve front Hip measure is 21 -4 inches; half of 2l}4 is 10?^ inches; measure this from 17 to 18. Now draft front line 27 O 18 to 47. which is length of garment. This is a perfectly
E F B
on
line
A B.
is
M M
;
straight line.
5.
to 40, 58 inches, and square on Tn order to get length of garment in back, measure from line A B as diagram shows. In order to get the minimum fullness of garment at bottom multiply bust measure, 19 inches. by 2%. which gives 42^4 inches: measure this from 47 to 48. Now draft a nicely shaped line from J to 48 as shown. Sweep at bottom 48 to 27 is slightly curved. This completes garment.
Ill
Diagram
55
112
ULSTER WITH DOLMAN SLEEVE.

DiAGUAM
S6
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25 43
15
inches
Shoulder Shoulder
Heights
Heights
Front
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
Back
Neck Height
.\cross
to Waist-..
7 8 7 15J4
13
5'k;
Back
Neck
Lêngth Waist in Front
..-.
15yj inches
8
Underarm
1st
inches
inches
18
inches
to
and 2d Dohiian
7^4 inches
46
10'/2
Inside
Elbow
Wrist
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Use same construction
lines as
on Opera Cloak on previous page.

58,
For back part follow diagram inches, and draw line up from
page 115, with the exception from J toK, which

to S.
is
This
is
called
plaits
Dolman
in
back.
A
2.
to
49
first
is
58 inches,
is
full
length of garment.
:
For
back follow our diagram.
The
at
Dolman
23 inches
and measure to namely 7, and go up

distance as
W
is
use this measure to get point Z, by placing your measure Z. less 6^2 inches across back measure. Find center of Z, to T, which is of bust plus 1 inch. 5*_( inches. Z to 2 is same
I.
is
1>4 inches above bust line and l'-^ inches front are same as in diagram 58, page 115.
from
line
H.
Front
line is
same
The shoulder height and neck as Opera Cloak lesson.

Second Dolman measure connect 6 2 T 4 and
Second Dolman
line 3.
103^ inches; 26 to 6
always 2 inches alcove waist line point 19 is lOyi inches, less back 16.
26.
Now

bac'v.
is
to
From 6 draw
diagram for
line to 48,
which
is
plaits
on
this line,
same
2y2 times 19 inches bust as on back.

1,
measure,
less
Follow
Sweep same
in
previous lesson, Ulster No.
diagram
68,
page 136.
113
Diagram 56
114
FICHU NO.
Diagram
57
3.
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
inches
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
43
15
inches inches

Across Back
7 inches 8 5^ inches 7 15^ inches

9
13
inches
Neck
Length Waist
in
\5y2 inches
Underarm
1st
9
46
inches
Front
Inside
18
inches
to
and 2d Dolman
7^^ inches
lOyi inches
Elbow
Wrist
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Follow instructions as
in
Opera Cloak Lesson No.
1,
with exception of fohowing points:
2.
to
C
Z
is
2 to
is
straight 3 inches,
;
to J is -}4 inch, and shape back as shown. and shape bottom of Fichu as shown from
through Z to
on front
line,
or any desired shape.
115
Diagram
57
116
WOM.i:N.
FICHU NO.
Diagram
58
4.
MEASURES.
Bust 38
25
inches
Shoulder
Height
Front
inches inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
inches
inches
8
7
5^
13
43
15
Neck Height
Across Back
of Waist
15>4 inches
inches inches
inches inches
inches
to
Neck
Length Waist
in
15^
Front
Inside
Underarm
1st
18
and 2d Dolman
7>2 inches
46
lOyi inches
Elbow
Wrist
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Follow instructions of Dolman No.
2.
2.
For
plaits follow
our diagram
closely.
3.
Curve from
E to Z, which is 3 inches above difference of shape in front.
waist
line,
same as Fichu No.
3,
with the
li7
Diagram
58
118
DOLMAN
NO.
5.
Diagram 59
MEASURES.
JBust
38
25
43
-

15
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
Shoulder Heights
Back
Neck Height
Across Back
to
Waist
7 8 7 15>^
13
inches inches
inches inches
5-)'4
inches
Neck
Length Waist
in
\SYi inches
Underarm
1st
inches
inches
Front
8
Inside
18
Elbow
inches
to
and 2d Dolman
46
10^
Wrist
7^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Follow instructions of Dolman No. 2 for construction

the same to obtain 18.
lines
back and front.
Measure hip
Now
measure
to
on bust
line,
which
in this case is 8? s inches
man
23 inches, and measure balance,
14%
inches,
5-)4
and I into half for point 7 and go up to T go down from 7 to 26 to 2 inches above waist
2.
deduct this from Dolfrom C to Z on bust line. Divide Z inches, which is ^ of bust plus 1 inch
;
;
line,
giving second
Dolman
point.
;
Draw second Dolman

inches, second
point
6.
Measure 16 19 width of back 2 inches 10>^ line from 26 to 16. Dolman, minus 2 inches leaves 8j/2 inches, which is measured from 26 to From H to 4 is a loss of 1 inch this inch is made up by going from Z to 35
;
toward
front.
Inside sleeve from elbow to wrist is 73/2 inches; this is measured from 2 to V. U to L is a straight line down L to 13 is 1 inch. to 15 is 16 inches, length of sleeve. and 15. From
;
from 36
Now
to U, the same connect line U 13
Now Now
backwards.
connect
through draft curve, starting at 6 to Connect S with 15 as shown.
35 and U.
From 6
to
is
a slight curve
with 47 as shown, and V- -4 up to shoulder front.
119
Diagram
59
120
DOLMAN
NO.
6.
Diagram 6o
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
inches inches
inches inches
Shoulder
Height
Front
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
43
15
Neck Height
Across Back
to
Waist
7 8 5^ 7 15^^

inches
13
Neck
Length Waist
Inside
in
15^4 inches
Underarm
1st
inches
Front
18
inches
and 2d Dolman
46
lOyi inches
Elbow
to
Wrist
7^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
W
is
is
IJ^ inches
from
line
R I
and note the change of back. and bust line.
to J
is
inch.
Point
2.
From
35 to 11 is ^4 inch; now draw line 11 Now connect points 3 A 2y2 inches.
V
16
30
to 13;
30
is
10 inches from V.
17 to
10
47, as
11
diagram shows.
to
3.
Place separate piece of paper under sleeve and trace 13
10
U.
121
Diagram 60
122
DOLMAN
NO.
1
7.
Diagram 6
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
inches inches
Shoulder
Shoulder
Heights Heights
to
Front
Waist
Back
Hips
Across Chest
43
15
inches
inches
Neck Height
Across Back
Waist
7 8 S-H 7 15>^
13
inches inches
inches
inches
Neck
Length Waist
in
153^ inches
Underarm
1st
inches
inches
Front
Inside
18
Elbow
inches
to
and 2d Dolman
7^^ inches
46
10,'/.
Wrist
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.

35 to 11
for back
is
and
front, with exception of following:
2.
is 34 of an inch. Point 41 sleeve connect line 41 and 11. The are 5 inches deep to points 30 29.
halt
way between
1
shapes are
waist and hip line. For under inch between 21 40 and 34 22, and
Now break hip line 21 11 U 13.

18 to
13
10
and turn under, and trace 10
to 41
22
to
30
3-1

40
29
is
hip measure less back, nameiy. 21'/^ inches.
Now conect 3 ^1 inch between 42 37 and 28 23, shape line 39 47 as diagram shows.
to 15 is 2 inches.
1
15
and 15 with
39.
Take out 2
darts in
making them
5 inches
deep to points 38
V
25.
shape,
Now
123
Diagram
61
\24
DOLMAN
NO.
8.
Diagram 62
MEASURES.
Bust
38 25 43
15
inches inches
Waist
Neck Height
Across Back
to
Waist
5^ inches ISyi inches

13
Hips
Across Chest
inches
to
inches
Underarm
Underarm
1st
inches
Neck
Length Waist
in
15^
Front
8
9 46
inches
18
Elbow
and 2d Dolman
7^2 inches
lOyi inches
Inside
Wrist
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Follow instructions of Dolman No. 7 for back with the following exceptions:
8 to 45
is
2 inches.
7.
45 to 41
is
inch.
Connect 45 with 11 and take out 2 Vs, same as
Dolman No.
L
2.
to 13 is line 13-
23
inch,
and connect with 23, which is center between waist and and follow same rules as Dolman No. 7.
hip.
Now
break
to 43
46
is
is bust measure less C, width of back plus 1 inch; namely, 15>^ inches. 43 to 2 inches down, same as 8 to 45 in back. Connect 46 with 31, going slightly out.
From 25 to 24 is l^-S inches, and 2 29 is also 1 J/ inches. square down; and 2 29, and square up and down.
Divide 25
24
4
into half
and
Now
tom 37
shape gore from 52 to 2446 9 to 3951 and front 37 to 2 to 47, following diagram closely.
3.
Shape bot-
125
Diagram 62
126
CAPE WITH ONE DART.

(38 inch Bust.)
Diagram 6}
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw
line
and square
to D.
Take
jacket pattern, front and back, and place
same
in
square as shown with dotted

at waist,
lines.
Let C be 8 inches and 8^2 inches from A, E to F is I3/2 inches and N and inch between L and O. space of 1 inch between
which leaves a
M K
A
gives dart on shoulder.
Use
as a pivot
and sweep
to
any desired length.
127
Diagram 63
128
CAPE WITH
TWO
DARTS.
(38 inch Bust.)
Diagram 64
INSTRUCTIONS.
1
Use same
rule as for previous cape
and
find center of
and
namely, R, and connect
with a guide line to A.

2.
and S are lyi inches from R.

is
P and L
J4 inch
from Y.
Square
to 27.
on Une
A R.
Do same
with point R.
to
For darts
connect
O T L P K
Use
as a pivot
and sweep
any desired length.
129
Diagram 64
!50
COACHMAN'S FUR CAPE.

DiAt;KAM 65
MEASURES.
Rust
-
38 inches
First
Dolman
4()
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
For box, use same
rule as our loose front

at front
jacket
No.
1,
only making
it
to
2.
the
waist
line.
Draft shoulders, neck curves,

2.
and back, same as Lesson No.
From
front shoulder take '2 inch off and allow this on back shoulder, as shown.
This
is
to bring shoulder
seam
right in center of shoulder.

J/j
From
to
is
4 inches
increase or
decrease this distance
incli
for respective
to
sizes.
Now
draft
line
from L through S
and
T and
slightly
toward front
to C,
this
completes back.
is
Measure distance
point
which
in
this case
2.i
10 inches, and place this 10 inches on front

S.
D,
and measure
2.
Dolman
inches,
giving point
Now
draft
line
from
through
through 8 and slightly toward back to
W.
Tliis
completes diagram.
131
Diagram 65
!32
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM
i:N
HOW TO GRADE MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT

Diagram 66
FRONT FIGURE
To
grade from 36 to 38 bust
line in this
1.
Your heavy
diagram shov\s your 36
bust,
FRONT PART.
Mark
out your front A,

shoulder, G, R,
B and
and T.
C, then raise your shoulder 3-16 of an inch to obtain your 3S
After this has been done, move your front ys of an inch over (parallel with front) half way between 3 and 4, and grade your dart R, I, H.
Then move your

scye, 10
T.
front
of an inch again over to point 4 (parallel with front) to obtain arm-
Bring your pattern down to original shoulder, keeping front on point

10 to Z.
4,
and continue arniscy.,
Underarm seam
is
graded yi inch from

to 34, use the
to Z, straight
down
to
and Y.
only grading down, using
To grade down from 36

the
same
instructions as above,
same measurements.
133
Diagram 66
1}4
MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT.

{Continued)
Diagram 67
BACK PART FIGURE

^'ouI
2.
heavy
line
in
this
diagram showi your 36 bust,

.i-16 of
BACK PART.
Raise your liack shoulder
an inch
'4
to
line
D E.
.1
^ôve your pattern over across hack

.'Vfler
inch from
to 4 to
oret
point 10.
ohtaininii'
this
point
10.
nio\e your pattern
down
lo
\dur original M> sh(julder.
It
T.
keeping back on
|)oint
4 parallel.
P.
.Vow
ccjiinect
10 with
and 10 with
is
to (),
underarm seam,
'j
inch,
straight
down
to
K.
To make back
shoulder and neck correspond with your front, take olT ^s inch on shoulder point,
D E,
and proceed from D- -W, raising
1-16 inch from B.
135
Diagram 67
136
ULSTER NO.
Diagram 68
1.
MEASURES.
Bust
.
.38
..25
inches
inches
inches
Across Back
13
inches
Waist
Hips
.
Underarm
Shoulder
Shoulder
Heights
Heights
to
inches
inches
..43
Front
-\cross Chest
15
;
inches inches
Back
7 8 5^
7
inches
Neck
5^
Length Back
Waist
IS'A inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
This draft
is
made by
cutting out any jacket, tight or loose fitting, to the second hip.
1
Then
draw box, with
the exception of shoulder heights, as Lesson No.

line,
explains
after notch-
ing the pattern at bust

as
place notches on bust line of
box and
straight on line
note
diagram shows
let
point
VV.
be 6 inches below
line
waist
line
and continue gores down

to
straight to points
Continue front
down
straight
point
V.
Also
point X, which
is
6 inches below waist
line.
To
get sweep at bottom of ulster, multiply bust measure
19 inches
is
2^
to C,
times, giving 42^4
inches,
and measure
1-3
this
from
to S,
to
B, and whatever
to
missing to
make 42^4
inches measure
of
remainder from
and 2-3 from S
and shape straight
up
to gores as
diagram shows.
137
Diagram 68
138
ULSTER NO.
Diagram 69
2.
MEASURES.
Bust
-
38
25 43
15
inches inches
inches
inches
Across Back
13
inches inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
L'nderarm Shoulder
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Heights
to
Back
Xeck
1534 inches
Length Back
Waist
7 8 5^ 7 1554
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
The two gores
in this draft
are placed together, leaving back and front alone,

1,
l-'ollow the
same instructions
2.
as on Lister No.
and note point

1,
to be
6 inches below waist hne.

let
Figure the sweep the same as Ulster No.
being careful always to
2-3 of remainder of
sweep go toward
1)ack
and 1/3 toward
front.
Diagram shows same.
I.i9
Diagram 69
140
PRINCESS DRESS.
Diagram 70
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
..-,
inches
inches inches
inches
Across Back
13
inches
Waist
Hips
Across C/hest
L'nderarm
Shoulder
Shoulder
Heights
Heights
to
inches
inches
43
13
Front
Back
7
7 8 5j4
-15,'/2
inches inches
Xeck
15'4
inches
Length
liack
Waist
INSTRUCTIONS.
I
he (haft
is
ah'cady explained
in the
preceding- lesson,
this
with the exception that back anti l)ack
gore are separate.
garment of
little
kind
is
always cut with a large

rules in getting
tlare
and a
train,
1.
hut diagram onlv shows
flare.
L'sc the
same
sweep as Ulster \o.
141
Diagram 70
142
HOOD
NO.
71
1.
Diagram
MEASURES.
Bust
36
iiidies
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
E and
J',
B.
to 1)
fjiven.
and
to
['
and
1'"
id
11
is
al\va\s '4 of
l)U.st
measure. 9
inelies.
S(|uare ])oints
jusl
wlneli constitute box.
'lace jacket
hack and front together as dotted

front of jacket or cape.
this
line
sliows.
11
and draft neck curve

through
I"",
to
(';
'4
to
A
all
is
Xow
draft curve
to
.\,
as
shown:
incli
around
curve
is
stitclied
and cord placed hetweeu to give the desired
effect
u hen wearing hood.
43
Diagram
71
144
HOOD
NO.
72
2.
Diagram
MEASURES.
Bust
1.
36 inches
as No.
1.
Top
of
tliis
hood
is
same
willi
exception of
is Sj/>
to
B being
'/s
of bust,
4j/j
inches.
2.
From F
to P is 4 inches, and for respective sizes I to

:
from B
is
1
to I
inch.
Now
A.
inches, increase or decrease these distances connect these points with straight line, as
shown.
Now
draft curve
from
through
to
HOOD
NO. 3
Diagram 73
MEASURES.
Bust
36 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Follow instructions as No.
2,
with exception of following:
2.
to 1
is 6'/2
inches,
and
to
is
2 inches
draft line
to
to line J. as
diagram shows.
14 =
D(J)-
Dg>
Diagram
No. 2
72
Diagram
No.
^
7^
146
KNEE LEGGINGS.
Diagram
74
MEASURES.
Knee
Calf
6>4 inches
7
5
Instep
7 inches
inches inches
Shoe Length
Full Length
9 inches
.....20
Ankle
inches
Calf Length
Syi inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw
line
O G,
2^
P
which
is
full length,
20 inches.
O
<j
to
X
F
is is
5y2 inches, calf length.

inches,
to
and
to
is
2 inches; these measures never vary.
2.
Square points O, X, D,
and G.
From D
to
is
ankle measure, 5 inches; square line up and
down from
I',
giving points
and
Z.
is
Knee measure
6jX inches from AI to A.

out
v^
to
is
calf measure, 7 inches.

'4
From G
to
B go
B
I
inch and measure from
to
inch.
Shape
line
from
P.
through
ED C
3.
to A. to J
is
Instep from
is
7 inches.
From B
4.
Q H to
to
9 inches, shoe lengtii.

I
From Z
to
to
I,
and
through
J PL
anil
is
inch.
Draft
line
from B through
M.
to
N is half distance between () This completes knee leggings.
M, which square
O, giving button
line.
SHOE LEGGINGS.
Diagram
These leggings are the same as knee leggings,
75
e.xcept that the length
is
S inches.
147
"(e)W
Diagram
74
Diagram
75
Waists
150
WAIST.
FIRST LESSON.
DiAGRAiM 76
MEASURES.
Bust
3?^
inches
inches
Across Back
14
inches inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
25
41
Underarm
Shoulder Heights Front. Shoulder Height Back
Lengtii
8^
-9^4
inches
15V2 inches
14
.
8J4
7'-^
inches
inches
Neck
.
inches inches
Back
to
Waist
7j4~15j/2 inches
^1/4
.7J4
17/^
Length of Shoulder
inches
IXSTRI'CTIO.XS.
I
)r;i\\
line
.'\
A C
!",
1.
From
to
to
is
is
7'4 inches, neck height

15'_> inches,
in
back.
in 'hack.
From A
is
length of waist
to
4 inches, the
jjoints C,
is
'/i
first hip.
Square over
E.
B on
line .\,
B.
1
From C
This
1
to L)
of bust measure plus

is
inch.
In this case
20 inches.
inch
is
',
we allowed
J
lost in cutting out
the fiattern.
D D
Cj
to
y
G
inch allowed for breathing.
to to to
is
'4
of Ijust measure,
of bust
'
in
this case 3 inciies.
H
1
is
yi,
measure plus I'j

_>
inches.
In this case 4 inciies.
is
7 inches.
I)
of back measure.
Square point
and
11,
I
up and down.
on
line C, D.
Sf|uare up points G.
151
a D
m-
H
^t)
E
i\)
^B
Diagram 76
l';2

WAIST.
SECOND LESSON.
SECOND LESSON.
Diagram
n
.\cross
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
41
inches inches
inches
Back
14
8J/2
inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
Underarm
Shoulder Heights Front Shoulder Heights Back
9>4
inches
inches
inches
15J/ inches
Neck
7)^
14
inches
Length Back
to
Waist
8>4 6 7)4 15>^

5^
JYa,
inches
171^
inches
Length of Shoulder
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
C C
to
to
Y
P
is
is
2^
inches.
l)ack.
6 inches, the second shoulder height

834 inches, the
first
to
is
shoulder height back.
Square over
In squaring
A
P
and
on
line
A, B.
over point
is
found crossing
line
I.
R
At
to
is )/2
inch.
.^'4
Draft neck, A, O, and draw back shoulder, O, S,

front,
inches.
to 3
3.
is
"54 inches, second shoulder height front.
Square point
to
X
1
is
9>4 inches,
first
shoulder height front.

11.
Square point
over l'< inches, to point
to
is
2 inches.
1
Square over point
to 27.
1 1
Draft neck curve from
to 27.
3, 5;k; inches,
Draw
Z
to 2
front shoulder from 11 to

is
the
same
as brick shoulder.
),
S.
7)4 inches,
y'l
of chest mea.sure.
3.
I,
Draft armscye from S through H, 2 to
In drafting armscye be very careful not to go inside of line
R.
Also do not bring

It
is
it
below the
i)ust line.
very important to follow the draft of arni.scye very carefully, and get the shape as near as possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is too large, while a small armscye can easily be made larger.
153
E 4^
4)
Diagram
77
154

TIGHT FITTED LINING FRENCH SEAMS.
'
DiAClKAM 78
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
41
inches
Across Back
14
inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
inches inches
Underarm
.Shoulder Heights Front.
.
.
8j4 inches
.9^4
t^V^ inches
14
. .
Neck
inches
7/4 inches .Shoulder Height Back inches 6 Length Backand Waist. .7^ 15>4 inches
8^/i
to
.7%
ijy2
inches
Length of Shoulder
5^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given in the First and .Second Lessons for Waists. Back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches.
T to S is 2^ At waist line,
J to
inches.
to J is lyi inches in all cases. inches. 1J4 This measure varies ys inch, according to larger or smaller sizes, where the back is tight ting with two gores. inches, v\hicli nuist l)e diviiled into 'j liack Waist measure, 25 inches; 34 of same is
is
fit-
6^
and
two equal gores.
K
L
7 inches. As we only need -t inches in this case, the other 2j4 inches are taken out in two darts of 1% inches each. The remaining 5 inches are to he divided equally into two gores of 2J4 inches each. L to 4, 23'j inches; 4 to 5, 1% inches; .t to 6, 2>j inches; 6 to 7. IJ^ inches. 1'.4 inches. On hip line measure from B to Draw center back line from A through J to \'. Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure "4 inch fo 15, }i inch
is
to L to 7
is 1
inch.
to 10.
the center of 4 and 5, square down where line crosses on hip, measure ^4 inch to 75 and inch to 74. Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure A4 inch to 13 and 34 inch to 14. 28 to 30 is 834 inches length of underarm measure. Draw new waist line from L to 30. .Shape gores as shown. Measure back neck. A O, which is 2'/2 inches, place these 2^4 inches on front neck at point M. measure to 27, which is 14 inches neck measure. 27 to is 7v inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to is 17j4 inches, length waist in front. Draw front line from through to 27 and down from to IS slightly shaped to 71. Draw new waist line from 30 to M. Place the Gy^l inches which is J4 of waist measure in liack on point 30. measure over 12^/2 inches, which is '4 of waist measure plus '4 inch, which gives us point 9.
Take
9 to
is
2}i inches.
inches
8.
These
2]/;
more than
to
the natural waist

is
measure are taken out
in
front
dart between 9
and
22 to 20
is
At front shoulder 32
20 to 19
is
2 inches taken out.
3 inches, the same as back shoulder to T. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point \^. 2-54 inches, the .same as back shoulder T S.
22
Reshajje arm-scye from 28 through li to 19. is 3-f4 inches. At front bust line D to .Shape the front as diagram shows. After the two front gores have been cut out, lay pattern together at points 22 22 20 to 40. inch raise at top, as shown by the dotted line points 32 tom of waist as shown.
20, allowing ^4
Shape the
bot-
1S5
Diagram
78
1S6
TIGHT LINING WAIST WITH ONE GORE.

Diagram 79
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
41
inches inches
Across Bade
14
inches inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
L'nderarm
.
8^
.
inches
.pj^
7}4 inches
isV^ inches
:
Length Back
to
Waist
7 x
15^
6
inches inches
Neck
14
7'/^
inches inches
Shoulder Heights Back: Shoulder
8J4
I7yi
5%
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
P'olovv
same instructions
as given in first
and second lessons for Waists.

.^
At waist
is
to J is 1_^2 inches; J to 4 is S'^ inches; 4 to
is
I34 inches; 5 to 6
is
3 inches; 6 to 7
2 inches.
The
distance between J
4
4 and 6
5
is
of waist measure.
Take center of Take center 6

28 to 24
is
and square down.
7 square
up and down.
8^
line
inches length of underarm.
Draw new
waist line from 5 to 24;
to
is
inch.
Draw back
S
to
from
is
to A.
at
shoulder
43^ inches.
Shape two back gores as shown.
From 27 on neck
to
is
7^
inches, highest point of chest,
down
to 34
is
Wyi
inches, length
front of waist.
Draw new
At
waist line from 24 to 34.

is
waist in front 34 to 13
front line
)4 inch.
Draw
from
13
O
15
to 27 slightly
shaped
to
29. \
Measure from
2j-'4
7 to 21,
}i
of waist
is
measure, 6^4 inches plus jA inch to V. out in front dart 22 23.
From
to front line is
inches which
taken
From
(J
on bust
i)oint,
line to
is
3f^ inches.
From
this point
1^4,
tliis
take out each side of line to 22
down to 35 inches and to 23
is
3 inches, square
down
l^.
.Shape dart and bottom as shown.

.\t
shoulder
11
to 12
is
jioint 3 I'oint
It

inches below 15.
2 inches; 12 to 14 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches 31. Reshajje armscye from 28 to 31.
we add on
lO
is
1'/.
Shape dart
as
shown.
is
necessary in all linings and shirt waists to take a dart out (.11 shoulder. Then place dart together at points X 14 down to 35, and cut over new front. The dart at bottom between 30 33 will increase as shown in blouse shirt waist.
157
Diagram 79
158
TIGHT-FITTING
TWO
PIECE LINING.
Diagram 80
MEASURES.
Bu.st
38
25
41
iiK-hes
Across Rack
14
inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chesi
^'eck
inches
L'nderarm
Shoulder Heights Front
.Shoulder Height Back
8>4 inches
inches
1314 inches
14
inches
Length of Back
to
Waist
6 8>4 7J4 15^

9>4
7]/^
inches inches
inches
inches
714171^
inches
Length of Shoulder
5%
LMSTRL'CTIONS.
I'ollow
.\t .\l
same instructions
as gi\cn in first
and second lessons for waists.

is
,s
waist line
E
to
to J
is
lî,
inches;
to 6
inches; 6 to 7
is
3 inches.
bottom
is
inch.
Draw back
line
from
F. J to A.
Take center of 6
is 83/'
7,
square down, from this
line to
18
is
'4
inch and to 17
is
inch.
to 7
inches, length of underarm.
I)raw
new
waist line from J to 10.
Shai)c back gore as shown.
At neck 27
to
is
7J4 inches.
Highest point of chest,

to 4.
29.
to
is
17^2 inches, length of waist front.
Draw new^waist
line
from 10
From 4
to
13
is
y, inch.
Shape front
line
from
13
to 27 slightly
shaped to
Measure waist from J to 6 which is 5 inches. Place the 5 inches on point 7. to point 21 which is !^ of waist From 12J/ inches, plus y'l inch to V. is 2-54 inches which is taken out in front dart, between 8.
.^
Measure over
to front line
'
>n
bust line
from
to 15
is 3->4
inches.
From
this point
down
.s,
to 19
is
3 inches.
8.
Square down from
this point,
measure from
this line to
l-j/g
inches and to
\yi inches.
Shape dart and l)ottom as shown.

Follow same instructions for the dart
shoulder as given in diagram 79, page 156
15^1
11
Diagram 80
160
BLOUSE SHIRT WAIST.

Diagram
81
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
41
153/2
inches inches
Across Back
14
inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
Underarm
Syi inches
inches
inches
-9%
6
7%
inches
8J4 inches
Neck
.
14
.
inches
inches
Xeck Height and
to
Waist. .y% 15^^
nches
inches
.7J4
17/^
Length of Shoulder
5^
INSTRUCTIONS.
in first
and second lessons for
waists.
At waist
line
E
to
to J
is
inch.
Draw
straight line
I
from
is
to J to
F; J to 6
is
5y2 inches; 6 to 7
is
3 inches.
On
bust line
1>4 inches;
to 21 is Syi inches, length of
underarm.
Draw new
17
is
waist line from J to 21.
Take center of 7
-34
which
is
point
5,
square down.
Draw
line
from
5 to
'P.
From
this line to
inch; to 18
is
-H inch.
Shape back gore as shown.

Take center of 17
set in a triangle,
which gi\es n)ore spring on hip as shown, from 14 to 16
up
i'roni
in
to
15.
27 to
is
734 inches, highest point of chest,
down
Id 13
is
Uy'j inches to length of waist
front.
line
I)raw
new waist
front line
from 21
to 13.
Draw
from
27 O 13
to 29.
Shape bottom as shown.

At shoulder take out a 2 inch dart between 12 10 down to 8. Add the 2 inches on point 3 which gives us point 31. Reshape armscye from H to 31, the same instruction as given in diagram 79. page 156. Cut through on the straight line from 20 to 8. Lay dart together
at point 12
10
to 8,
make new
pattern where
we
gain 234
inches in the front of waist
from 14
to 15 in following lesson.
161
Diagram
81
162
COMPLETE FRONT OF SHIRT WAIST

Diagram
82
INSTRUCTIONS.
Showing how
to cut a
new
waist pattern by laying the dart together at Shoulder, points 6

23-4
17
and
where we gain the
inches
more
fullness at
bottom of waist from 14
to 15.
How
to apply or
make
a box pleat on the front of a blouse waist.
Measure from front
line 4
11
1
over
inch to 3
to 8 is
1
10.
From
3 to 2 and 10 to 9
is
2 inches.
1
For
the width of pleat 2 to
and 9
inch.
To form
9 and 3
pleat stitch together on lines
and
11.
Open
pleat
and press on
lines,
10
which
will
be a 2 inch pleat
when
finished.
163
Diagram
82
!64
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMii^N
TURN-OVER COLLAR.
SHOWN
ILLUSTRATION. (ON PAGE 163)

IN
Diagram
83
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
14 inches, neck measure.
is
center of
D.
Square up points
B L
D.
to
K
J 1 H
C
is i^ inch;
to
I is
1>^ inches,
same as
I
to
HB
to J. for
under standing
as J to
collar.
is
break
line for the turn
over
collar.
toGis lYz
inches,
same
and
to C.
to
and
to
is
>4 inch.
."^hape collar as
shown.
Illustration of collar
on page 16).
16";
Diagram
83
166
BISHOP SLEEVE.
Dia(;kam 84
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
of bust measuie, A B. A to J is 4^4 inches, y of bust measure. J to D is Square over ail given points. inches. D to B is J4 of bust measure, 9 inches.
^/i
to
is
16 inches, 2 inches less than Vj of b;i?t measure.
Square rlovn
to K.
This completes box for sleeve.
Take center of
to
K B,
'A
is
inch
i
which gives us point T. Square down X to P and J to C is i inch u is

; ;
T
J^
to 3 inches. the distance of
D to Q A E.
and P
Square up
to
inch.
to
is
2!4 inches;
to
is
Â
inches.
TIGHT LINING SLEEVE.

DlAUR.\M
(S5
MEASURES.
Full
Hqlf of Back Length
inches
To Elbow
I93/2 inchej
29>1 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
From A
.\ to L is 19y.. inches to elbow A to B is 29'^ to is /j of back measure. 7 inches is 1 inch. Square over of bust measure, 4V2 inches: F to to F is inches to wrist This comto S is '4 "f ''I'^t measure, '* inches. Squ;ire down to 11. all given points. pletes box for sleeve.
; ; ;
to
up
Square over I to X, 4/2 inches. 2 inches. to i' S to L is 2 inches: to O, I inch. of bust measure, 4'/2 inches: L to C is 1 inc.).
is
X
is
is
jA inch:
Take
the distance of Square N S. T to R is 1 inch: R lO is center of 1], II, which gives us K.

v_,
to \'
is
3 inches;
to
is
5 inches.
Draw
;
uch.
to
Draw
is
1
line
F.
line
Square down
J^ inch
down
to J
H
'=1,
inch.
Draw
G J.
completes undersleeve.
'ihape top sleeve
from G. *R, *P, *L, *0.
*C. *E.
This completes top sleeve.
167
* X
,m~
fa
In 00
u <
168
TIGHT FITTING PRINCESS FOUR PIECES.

Diagram 86
MEASURES.
Bust Waist
inches inches 41 inches 15J/2 inches inches 14 Ty^l?^/^ inches
38 25
Across Back
14
Underarm
Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Heights Back Neck Height of Waist Length of Shoulder
Hip
Across Chest
9/4
8}i
Neck
Length Front Waist
7^
inches inches 7 ]4 inches inches 6 15^ inches 5^4 inches

8^/2
INSTRUCTIONS.
.\t
J
in First
and Second Lessons for waists.
waist
is
we only need Oj/j inches, which is "4 of 26 waist measure. The other 434 inches more than needed are taken out between the two darts at back. inches. which is Measure waist from J to L is ly4 inches L to 6 is 3->4 inches; 6 to 7 is 2^4 inches and L to 6 is 6>2 inches, J4 of waist measure in back. J to through J \' to 89, which is 56 inches, the full length of garment. Draw center back line from The back is cut on the fold of material. inch to \5. and 's inch Take the center of L K, where the line crosses on first hip. measure
to 7
to J is 1 inch. In this case 10 inches.

line,
2^
:.
to 10.
Un
second hip, where line crosses, measure 2 inches to 44 and Ji inch to 4,v Continue line from 44 to 79, from 43 to 88. Square the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down to full length. Where line crosses on first hip measure, 1- inches to 13 and y'^ inch to 14. On second hip where line crosses measure 2j^ inches to 81 and lÂ inches to Continue line down from 81 to 90 and 80 to 87.
80.
Back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches. to S is Zji inches. 28 to 30 is Syi inches underarm measure. Draw a new waist line from L to 30. Shape back and .side gore as diagram shows. .\t hip, measure from V to 10, 15 to 14 and 13 to 33, which is 20>2 inches, >^ of hip measure. 33 to 18 is Zy^ inches. These 2^2 inches are taken out at the front dart at hip line between lb and 17. Measure back neck curve A O, which is 2^ inches. Place these 2^2 inches at the front neck on point 32, measure to 27, 15 inches. Now draw center front line from 27 through O 18 to 71 full length of garment.
27 to
is
Draw new
Measure
which is ^> of waist measure. of waist measure, in back at point 30. Place the 6>4 inches, which is and 8, is Zyi inches, these 2^ inches are taken out in the front dart between 9 to on front bust line is 3^ inches, 32 to 22 is 3 inches, D to to T. Front shoulder the same as back shoulder 22 to 20 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. to 19. Reshape armscye from 28 through Shape the front as diagram shows. at bust line, and meet the two Now cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together at point points on shoulder, 22 and 20. At neck point 32 raise }i inch. Point 3 remains the same. Draw new shoulder from 32 through 3 to 40. The front is cut on the fold of material.
7 >^ inches, the highest point of chest. waist line from 30 to M. over 13 inches, which gives us point 9,
27 to
is
17}^
inches, length front of waist.
169
|JlACK,V.U
So
170
BLOUSE WAIST, DROP SHOULDER.

Diagram
ii?
MEASURES.
Bust
-^H
inclie^
Across iiack
I'nder
14
inches
Waist
Hips
-3
41
13'..
iin-bes
Arm
9'/$
Sy^ inches
indies inches
Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height, Hack
7j-j
inches inches
inches
Across Chest
8j4
Neck
14
inches
Xeck Height and

Length of
to Waist.. ..7 j4
ISVj
7^ 17,V2
inches
Shoulder
5^4 inches
IXSTRUCTIONS.
l'"ollo\v
same instructions
from
1
as given
in
is
the
Blouse Shirt Waist, diagram 81, page l60
)n Ijust line
is
to 19. 11 to 8
5 inches.
Square over 8
4
is
'/2
to
12,
2 inches.
19 to 10
3 '4 inches;
to
20
is
Vi inch: 3 to
inch. 3
11.
Shape armscye and shoulder

blouse.
from
20 10T H L 12
l.s
This
completes
the
Draft new sleeve for blouse.
Draw
line
is
B.
to
15
is
'4
bust, 9 inches,
to
is
'4 bust,
9 inches.
is
B to 21
3 inches taken off for cuff' as
tom of sleeve 17
Square over the given
shown
in
the diagram.
This cuff
joined on the
liot-
20,
which gives
full length.
])oints,
to
1.
14 inches, 4 inches less than
'-j
of l)ust measure.
Square down
21 to
to
If).
20
is >2 inch; 16 to 17 inches; 18 to 19 is 1
is
yj inch; 15 to 14
is
.;'4
inch; 12 to 13
is
-Vj
inch; 3 to 2
is
incli.
Shape as shown.
is
1
To
place sleeve in blouse, bring notch A. whicli
the
underarm of
square
u\).
sleeve,
on point L
in
blouse.
P'or cuff 11 to
is 8>-2
inches.
Take center
7.
of
8.
10 to 9
is
j/j
inch
9 to 6. 11 to
8 to
5 is 3^/2 inches.
Measure from 6
Shape
cuff as
to 7, 6 to 5, 5 '4 inches.
shown.
171
<x'
Oi
Diagram 87
172
BLOUSE WAIST WITH DEEP ARMHOLE.

Diagram 88
MEASURES.
Bust 38
25
41
inches
Across Back
14
inches
Waist
inches
inches
Underarm
Shoulder Heights Front
Shoulder
9j4
Hip
Across Chest
8J4
8^ 7%
inches inches
15>^ inches 14
inches
Height Back
to
6
5^
Neck
Length Front of Waist.... 734
Length Back
Waist
7]/^
15>4
173^
inches
Length of Shoulder
INSTRUCTIONS.
in first
and second lessons for Waists and diagrams 81-82
Under arm from
to 5
is
3 inches.
Draw new armhole from
3 10 to S.
Draft new sleeve for the blouse.
Draw
line 3 to 22.
10 to 22 is 11 inches, length of sleeve to elbow; 10 to 13 is Zy^ inches, 34 inch less on each inch, the distance from T to 5 at the underarm of blouse.
Square points 3
Square
1
10 1322 over, 3
1
to
is
14 inches.
;
down
to 19, 5 to 2 is J^ of bust 4J^ inches
2 to 4
inch.
is
1>4 inches; 13 to 14
12 to 11
is
Draw
3 to 8
line
is
V/i inches; 19 to 20 is from 3 to 6, 6 to
inch; 21 to 22
is
1.
3 J4 inches and
is 1/2
to 7
is
inches.
18 to 17
inch; 15 to 16
is 1/2
inch.
Shape sleeve
21 17148-47 12 11 1&-20.
this blouse.
This completes sleeve for
175
Diagram 88
174
HOW TO MAKE A KIMONO
SLEEVE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN.

Diagram 89
MEASURES.
Bust
.
38
25
41
l.^'j
iiu'lies
Acrcjss
Back
14
8'
indies
inclies
Waist
[lip
inches inches
L'nderarm
93-^
.\cross Chest
inches
inches
.Veck
14
Neck Height and

Length
of
to Wai.st...
7jj 6 8% 7>4 15>4

S-}!!
inches
inches
inches indict
7>4
17^2
inches
Shoulder
INSTRLCTKJNS.
Lay hack and
front
shoulders togetiier. allowing between 16

to 10,
1')
17, J4
inch.
Draw
line
is
from 18 tlirough 17
10 inches.
inches, length of sleeve to elbow.

7.
IS to 11
.Square over 11 to
to 8
7 inclies.
1,^
11
8.
to 12
I'roni
is
6 inches.
to
''
S(|uarc i>oints 7
12
down
l.v
t'onnect
with
If)
is
inch.
Shape bottom as shown.

At the underarm of waist on back pari we gain At the underarm of waist on front part we lose
'4
1
inch,
from
14 to 7.
.^
to 6.
inch,
from
original line to 12,
and 21
to 22.
Shape
tlie
underarm of waist
at
12
round as shown.
175
Diagram 89
176
KIMONO WAIST WITH AN UNDER GORE WORKED FROM A

BLOCK PATTERN
Diagram 90
MEASURES.
Bust 38 25
.41
inches inches
inches
Across Back
.14
inches
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
Underarm
9j4
SJ^ inches
15J^ inches
15
Neck
7
inches inches
Neck Height
of Waist
8J4 6 7^
7j/$
inches inches
inches
15J/2
5-34
17
Length of Shoulder
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Take your
plain shirtwaist pattern, lay the
two shoulders together and mark the whole blouse
as
diagram shows.
Cut back, neck and front out of pattern.

Bring point
exactly on
and break your pattern
to get
middle
line
open the pattern
again, and
drawn
line
G T
is
as
diagram shows.
is
Measure on
line
G
1
S,
which
to
18 inches, which
the length of sleeve to elbow.
Square over S
to J
and S
P.
which
is
8 inches.
From S
to
is
inch.
Shape from J through
to P. as
diagram shows.
From
to I
is
7^4 inches.
Square over to
L and
N, which
is
Now
You
connect
will
with L,
with
is
J,
6% inches R with N, N
to 2
on each
side.
and
with P.
see the dotted line

lose
our original pattern.

1
The amount we
from L
to
and
we
allow between
B and
C, which
is
3>^ inches.
Then
take the center of
C, which gives us point E.

to
Square on point
E down
D, Syi inches, underarm blouse, the same as

is
to
and
Now
Now
square on point A, which
IOJ/2 inches,
underarm
sleeve,
the same distance as
N N
to R. to
and
to J.
connect the underarm to the body by bringing
to Y,
to
K,
to
and
to
O.
177
DlAGRAM 90
178
MANISH SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE.

Diagram
91
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
to 7 is 4^/2 inches, of 17 to B is J4 of bust measure, taken off the length for the cuff. to B.
i)ust
">
measure.
7 to 17
is
is
'4
inches.
inches.
to 28
3 inches.
of bust measure, 9 These 3 niches are
Square
28
all
given points.
to
C
is
is
14 inches. 4 inches less than

sleeve.
;
J/-
of bust measure.
Scjuare
down
inch. !'/
C
to
to D.
is
Complete box for

;
23
yi inch
22 to 21
^2 inch
14 to 15
is
is
inch
16 to 17
.\
is is
Draw
To
'ilic
line
from
to 5
and
5 to C.
to 4
3'j inches;
to 3
3j
_>
inch 24 to inches; 1
:
2.5
is
to 2
is
inches.
make
o])ening in sleeve, from 23 to 27 is 4''.. inches. .Square u]) to 27, 5]/' inches to 20. piece set on over opening, is IJ/ inches wide, as shown, from 27 to 26. 20 to 19 and uj)
to 18.
l''or
cuff,
draw
line
11
tn 13.
')
is '/j
the distance of 12 '\ whicli sleeve to fit cuff' at 13 to 11.
inches,
Take center
is
at
12.
s(|uarc uj) to 9, 6 inches.
8 and 10
break
line for
turn back cuti.
From 22
to
23 gather
179
OlAGKAM
91
180
WOM:i:N.
HOW
TO MAKE SHAWL COLLAR AND LAPEL.

Diagram 92
INSTRUCTIONS.
Measure from
the deepest point of neck, 22 to
lapel at
22>. 1
inch.
Draw
a line
from the bottom of

inches, 34 inch
line
26 through 23 to 24.
32 to 21
is 2-34
more than back neck measure.
Square over on
35 to 36
is
2426,
\y^ inches to 25, standing band, and over to 35.
Yi inch allowed for spring.

line of collar
Shape back Shape
from
25, 24, 21 to 36.
collar
and
lapel as
diagram shows.
Place separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to shape of collar.
To
trace out lapel, break on line 26, 24, turn paper under,
will
and trace out the shape of
lapel,
which
be reversed on opposite side.
HOW
TO MAKE NOTCH COLLAR.

Diagram9J
INSTRUCTIONS.
in
shawl collar with the exception from 19
to
18,
draw
line
which gives the notch.
Shape as shown.
181
Diagram 92
Diagram 93
12
HOW TO MAKE A LAY-DOWN COLLAR FROM BLOCK

WITHOUT STAND BAND.
Diagram 94
PATTERN
i.\srRi'(
ri(
)Ns.
Lay hack ami fniiU

case 4 inclics.
sIkiuIcKts idiêlhcr al
|iijiiUs
7.
Make
cc)llai"
any
(k-sircil
wiiltli.
in
Uiis
Al
liacls
fniiii
_'
t(i
allow
'4
iiicli
for
spriiijj;.
Shape
collar as sluiwn fiMin
.1
2
1
3 to
'1.
I83
DiACUAM
94
184
HOW TO MAKE A
SAILOR COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN
WITHOUT STAND BAND.

Diagram 95
INSTRUCTIONS.
Lav front and back shoulders together

case from neck to 6
is
at
points 4
/.
Make
collar
any desired length,
in thii
6 inches.
Draw
From
Draw
straight line
from 6
to 4.
2 to
is
spring. J4 inch allowed for

1.
Collar
is
7 inches deep in back.
line frorr 3 to
Square over on
this line 7
inches to
5.
Shape
collar
from 6
a=
shown.
185
DlAGKAil 95
Slîrts
188
HIPLESS
OR HOBBLE SKIRTS
U1AGR.AM 96
IN
ONE
PIECE.
MEASURES.
Waist
-25
inches
Length Side
Length Bacl<
42
inches
433/2
inches
Hip
Length Front
41 inches
45 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw Hne A
B.
to
is
inches.
Square over
17^/2
to
F and C
to
12J{>
inches '> of
waist measure
pkis
-S
inches,
in
this
case
inches.
These
5 inches are taken out
between the darts
at
waist Hne.
skirl.
We
C
F
to
allow these 5 inches in order to have less sweep at the bottom of
Connect
F
is
with E.
j^ inch.
to I
is
J4 inch.
Draw
waist line from
to
I.
Measure down from waist Measure hip from
line
6 inches to dotted line

j<2
G.
DG
I
ZOyz inches,
of hip measure.
Draw back
line
from
through
to
45 inches.
Front length from
to B,
42 inches.
Side length, 433-^ inches, and shape bottom as shown.
This completes the box for hipless
skirts.
I)
From
front Hne
(mi
hip Hne
measure from
to
j!-4 inches.
T Y
to
S 6j^ inches; S
to
63/2
inches.
At waist
line
to
X
to
is
3 inches,
X
X
to
to
VV
is
inches,
incli.
.\
and VV
to
V"
to
is
is
6 inches.
Measure from
34 inch,
to (J
( ),
}i
5 inches.
Shape dart from V

-Measure from
to
P and V
W
Y
to
I34 inches
and
\\
to
Hi
inches.
Shape dart from S

-Measure from
to
to
1.
N
1
and S
inch,
to
M.
1
to J
inch.
to
is
53^ inches.
10
Shape dart through U
L and U
skirt.
to J.
This completes the hipless
189
Diagram 96
190
EMPIRE SKIRT.
Diagram^/
MEASURES.
\\ aisi
-
-'3
ilip
.__
41
inches inches
Length hroul Length Hack

4.^'..
4.i
ihcIk'.-
47 inchcinches
Length Side
l\s'J4-;ii;ti()XS.
)ra\\
hue
-\,
11.
4 inches. Si|uare over from .\ lu

to
is
1'
case l7'/2 inches. with E. Connect

I*"
ami These
(
Ici
1'..
3 inches are
li'j inches. taken
'
of
(JUt
waisl measure iilu> hetween darts at waist
.^
inches,
ni
thi>
line!
C
F
to to
K
I
is
'
_>
inch.
is
-5/4
of an inch.
waist Hne K, L Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. .Measure hip, D. G. which is 20' 2 inches. '2 of hip measure. Til make skirt Empire, measure up from the natural waist line, K. I, _' inches, which gi\es us ])oints Z and O. Lonnect Z to O. Xow draw a hne from O through 1, ii hi 11. A7 inches, length of skirl in hack. The front length from Z to H. 44 inches.
Draw
Side length, 45J/2 inches. This completes the ijox of lunjiire .Skirt. From front D to T on hi]) is 3',j inches. T to S is Gyi inches. S Id R is 6y.i inches.
(
)n
natural waist hne

a line
to
is
.3
niches,
to
is
(1
inches,
and
( )
to
\'
is
n inches.
Draw
from
through
to Enipn-e waist
line.
'4 inch. At natural waisl line measure from X to 1' '4 inch and X to inch, and shape At top of waist line measure from 8 to ') % inch and from S to 7, shown. to Em|)ire waist line. Draw a line from S through ; inch to M. From \\" measure V4 inch to .\ and from to 4, is.\s inch. to 6, is -Vs inch, and from .\t top of waist line measure from Shape dart as shown. Draw a line from R through \ to luiijiire waist line. Measure from Y to L s,s inch and from ^' to J S-s inch. At top of waist line measure from 2 to 3. ' j inch and 2 to T, is '/. inch.
,'
,s
<lari
as
.'i
.3
to
is
5 inches.
.Sha])e dart as
shown.
191
Df.\(.u.\M
97
192
HOBBLE SKIRT WITH SIDE PLEAT

Diagram 98
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
41 inches
Front, length
Right, length
40 inches
42 inches
Hip
Back, length
43 inches
INSTRUCTIONS
Follow same instruction as given

9
is
in
diagram 99, Page 194, with exception,

to 9.
at
bottom
the center of
B H.
Draw
line
from
W.
To form
inverted pleat in the side, measure
from 9 up
to 3-15 inches,
from 3 over to 4-5-2-1-li inches to each point.

This completes
skirt.
At bottom, measure
from 9 over
to
10-11-8-7-2 inches to each point.
193
Diagram 98
194
HOBBLE SKIRT
Diagram 99
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
41 inches
Front, length Right, length
40 inches
42 inches
Hip
Back, length
43 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
a line
A B.
A A
to
is
4 inches.
S.-juare over.
to
F and C
to
is
12>4 inches, ^j of waist measure plus 5 inches,

line.
in this
case
17',-2
inches.
in
These
3 inches
are taken out between the dart at waist

less
We
allow these 5 inches
ordci
to
have
sweep
at the
Dottom of
skirt.
Connect
F
is
with E.
G
F
to to
K
I is
inch.
inch.
Draw
waist line
to
I.
Measure down from waist Measure hip from
line
6 inches
to dotted line
D G.
At front
line hip,
Draw
line
from 2
DG, 20J^ inches. J4 of from D to F is 4 inches, B through T to x. X to P is

to
hip measure, 41 inches.

to 2 is 6 inches at bottom.
>'2
inch and x to
is
>4 inch.
Shape dart as shown.

.^t
back on
hip,
to
G
1,
is
3 inches at bottom, 3to
is
Ayi inches.
3 to
is
5 inches.
Square over 3
draw
line
is
from
through R to Y.
to
is i/i
inch.
to J
^
on
inch.
Shape as shown.
Take the center Take
of
R and T L
hip.
S.
the center of
line
O
W.
at
waist
to
line,
which gives us point \^^

D'4 inches.
Draw
from S
to
N
Q.
is
to
is
l;4 inches.
Measure up from bottom

12 inches
skirt to
from 2
to Z.
12 inch cut through the side panel as shown,
195
Diagram 99
96
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMSN.
PANTALOON
SKIRT.
Diagram 100
MEASURES.
Waist
-
IS inclies
41 inches
Length Front
42
43>..
inches inches
Hip
Length Side
45
inches
Length Back
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw hne A B. to C is 4 inches. Square over A to F and C

inches.
to
12>2 inches, >2 of waist measure phis
indies, in this case
17'/.
These 5 inches are taken out Connect F" with E.
at the
waist hne, between the dart and at center back.
C to K is 3^2 inch. F to I is -yi inch. Draw waist hne K
to
3^ the distance between From P to VV is /2 inch. Draw new waist line from
is
K
througii
line
to
1.
K. W. inches to dotted D G is 20J/2 inches, ".^ of hip measure. Draw back line from I through G to H, 45 inches. Side length, 43/2 inches. Front length, 42 inches. Shape bottom as shown. This completes bo.x.
Measure down from new waist
line
G.
front, from K down to 14 is 14yj inches. Square over from 14, 6>4 inches to 11.
.At
14 to 12
is
23/ inches.
is
At bottom, from B to 10 .Shape to]) as shown.

.\t
6y2 inches.
I!
l)Ottom, 7
line
is
1/2
the distance l)et\\een
H.
inches for pleat.
Draw
234 inches. is Zyi inches. From S to U. 4 inches. From S to T, 4 inches. At bottom, 7 to 8 is 6 inches. 7 to 6 is 6 inches, draw line. Shape top gores as shown. At center back on waist line I to
is
W to N W to M
from 7 up to W. At waist line, measure from
W down to
S, 16>4
is
3S inch.
.At
hip to
to
is
34 inch.
to 3, IH'/j inches.
1,
From I measure down Square over from 3 to

3 to 2
is
8 inches.
234 inches.
At bottom From H to 4 is 8 inches, draw line. Shape top as shown. The front and back panels arc cut separate from
tjic
skirt.
3 inches. At bottom, B to 9 is 6 inches At back. to is 3 inches. At bottom. to 5 is 6 inches. Shape as shown. Center front and back panels are cut on the fold of material.
to
is
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN,
197
Diagram 100
198
CIRCULAR SKIRT.
Diagram
101
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
Leng-th Front
42
43'/2
inclies
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
45
inches
inches
Length Back
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
a line
B.
to
is
4 inches.
Square over from

Connect
to
F and C
to
is
S'/^
inches.
F
is
1
with E.
inch.
C
F
to
K
I
to
is
3 inches.
DâW
Take
straight
hne connecting
I
with L
i)()int
the center of
K, which gives us
U.
to
is
1^
inches.
Draw new
waist line from
K
is
through
line
to
1.
Measure down from new waist

Measure hip
6 inches
to dotted line
G.
to G,
I
which
21 to
is
inches, /> of hip
measure.
in back.
Draw
The
a line
from
through
G
B
45 inches, the length of skirt
front length
from
to
42 inches.
Side length, 43j/^ inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows.
To make
inverted pleat at the center back, go out at waist line from
to
2 inches and 2 inches
from
to
M.
At the bottom go out from
to
5 inches
I
and
to J 5 inches.
at center
To form
inverted pleat, take up on line

skirt.
and meet
back
line
J.
This completes the circular
199
Diagram
lul
200
THREE-GORE SKIRT.
Diagram
102
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
Length Front Length Side
42
inches
Hip
Length
42
l!ack
inches
iSyi inches
inches
A5
Draw hne A
B.
to
is
4 inches.
Square over
Connect
to
F and C
to
12'/2 inches, whicli
is
'/j
of
waist measnrc phis
1/j
indies,
in
this case 14 inches.
F
to
with E.
From C
is
inch.
to I
is
1^
inches.
Draw
Take
a straight
hne from
K
I.
1\.
to
1.
the center of
and
from
this point
20 measure down
'
inch to
iv.
Shape new waist hne fnim
through
to
Measure down from new waist hne

Measure
inches to dotted line
G.
G, which
is
21
inches, JX of hip measure.
Draw
a line
from
through
to II, 4-5 inches, length
of skirt in back.
Front length from
to
is
42 inches.
.Side length, 43J/2 inches,
and shape bottom as diagram shows.

.-kirt.
This completes the box for a three gore

[Moni gore at hip
D
to
to
\'
T
is
is
3 inches.
At the bottom B
7 inches.
Draw
a line
from
V
to
through
to L.
to
Measure from L
O
to
J4 of
an inch and L
to T.
J/^
of an inch.
Shape gore from P
T and O
is
about yi the distance from
T
R
to G.
to
is
4 inches.
Measure from
to
X
to
inch and
to .M
inch.
Shape dart from
S and
to S.
skirt.
This completes the three gore
201
Diagram 102
202
FIVE-GORE FLOUNCE SKIRT.

Diagram 10^
MEASURES.
Waist Measure---
inches
Hip
Measure
-
42
iiiclies
Length
42 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1
Follow
201^.
the h\e-gore skirl exacth' as described in the
following lesson, diagram, 104, page
2.
C C
to to
y
L
IS
,',4
Inp measure, lU'j
inches.
is
16 inches, or ji of 21 inches, 'j of hip measure plus '4 inch.
Flounce from
to j
in
hack
is
1(>
inches,
and
in
front,
from
IJ
to
K, 8 inches.
L'sing
as a pivcjt,
sweep top of flounce
K R.
1.
1
to
measures the same as
to j.
Using
as a pivot,
sweep curve B
is
straight through
to y.
203
us
Diagram
10 <
204
FIVE
*
GORE
Diagram
SKIRT.
104
MEASURES.
Waist
liip
25 inches
Length
l'"rnnt
43
45>'2
inches inches
42 inches
Lengtli
llacU
Length Side
47
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
i'ollnw
same instructions for
l:)Ox
exception of an extra gore. H, which gives us point U.
as given for three gore skirt in diagram 102, pagelOP, witli the This gore is ol)tained by taking 16 the (hstance from \' to
Take
,!/>
the distance a line
from
I'
1
to
on
hip.
S.
Xow draw
from
to
through S to R.
''
J.7
Measure from
inch. inch,
Measure from R
to AI
fi\'e
and
sliape gore
from
to
.S
;md
to
S as diagram sliows.
This completes the
gored
skirt.
205
Diagram 104
206
SEVEN GORE SKIRT.

1'
DlAGR,\M 105
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches

45
inches
42
inches
Hip
42 inches
43>4 inches
Length Back
Draw
line
B.
to
is
4 inches.
Square over from

Connect
to
F and C
case 16J/2 inches.
to E, 12y, inches, Yi of waist measure plus 4 inches, in These 4 inches are taken out between the darts as at top of waist
thi,--
line.
F
is
1
with E.
inch.
C !
to
K
I
to
is
1^
inches.
Draw
Take
straight line
from
I,
to
L
'^ incii
the center of K,
go down
and draw, new waist
line.
Measure down from Measure

hip,
ne:w waist line 6 inches to dotted line
to G.
to G,
I
which
is
21 inches, '6 oi hip measure.
Draw
line
from
through
G
is
to
H, 45 inches, the length of
skirt
in
back.
Front length from
to
42 inches.
Side length, 43>2 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows.
This completes the box for a seven gore foundation.

All skirts with
more than seven gores require the same foundation.
The
front gore at hip,

is
to T,
is
3 inches.
a line
to 3 at bottom
this
inches.
Draw
to
from 3 through
to waist line. to T,
From
line %
measure inch
Now
.-\t
take the distance from us points S and R.
to
O and 34 inch to P, and shape gore from P G and divide equally into 3 gores of 6 inches
3 to
and
to T.
each, which gives
bottom take the distance from gives us points 1 and 2.
and divide equally
into 3 gores of 12 inches each,
which
Draw
From From
a line from 2 through S to waist

this line
1
line.
1
measure
inch to
and
Inch to
M, and shape gore from

line
to to
S and
draw
to
From this a line through R to waist line. K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R.
skirt.
measure ^s inch
M to S. and % inch
This completes the seven gore
207
Diagram
105
208
NINE
GORE
SKIRT.
Diagram 106
MEASURES.
\\'aist
25 inches
Length Front
Length Side
47
inches
4,^
inches
Hip
42 inches
45>2 inches
Length Back
INSTRUCTIONS.
P'ollow
same instructions for box

at hip.
is
as given in
diagram
10.^,
page lOh.
The front gore
to T.
is
254 inches.
to
at
bottom
6 inches.
Draw
Take
a line from 4 through

to O,
to waist hne.
l''rom this line

()
measure
>4
inch to
P and
^4
inch
and shape gore from P
to
and
to T.
the distance from T to G and divide equally into 4 gores of 43/2 inches each, which gives us points S, R and O. the same distance from 4 which gives us jioints 3, 2 ami 1.
to II
At bottom take
and divide equally
into 4 gores of
C)-54
inches each,
Draw Draw
From
a line
to
from
3 through S to waist line.

to
From
this line
M, and shape gore from N

from 2 thr(jugh R
measure rn inch
1
S and
measure
s,s
inch to
N and
'^.s
inch
to S.
a line
to waist line. to
this line
L and
.\s
inch to K, and shape gore from
to
R
J,
and
'j
to R.
Draw
a line from
1,
through
to waist line. J to
From
I
this line
measure
',2
inch to
inch to
and shape gore from
and
to
O.
This completes the nine gore
skirt.
209
Diagram 106
210
ELEVEN GORE SKIRT FOR A FULL CORPULENT FIGURE.

Diagram
107,..'
MEASURES.
Waist Hip
-
3*+
inches
48 inches

45
inches
42
433/1
inches inches
Length Back
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
a Hne
B.
in
to
is
inches.
;
Square over from A to F and C to E, 17 inches, y2 of waist measure plus 3 inches These 3 inches are taken out between the darts at waist hne. case 20 inches. Connect F with E. Draw a straight line from C to F. Take the center from C F, go down >4 inch and draw a new waist hne. Measure down from new waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. Measure hip, D, G, which is 24 inches, >2 of hip measure. Draw a line from F through G to H. 45 inches, the lengtli of skirt in hack. Side length, 43>4 inches. Front length from C to B is 42 inches. Shape bottom as diagram shows. Measure down from C to 5 14 inches, which is 1-3 length of skirt, 42 inches. of an inch. Measure from 5 to 6, Draw a new front line from B through 6 to X, the distance from C to the front line is inch in this case, and measure up the same distance to X. Draw a straight line X to V, which is eased in over the fullest part of the stomach.
this
p/s
of an
The
front gore at
B to 5 at bottom Draw a line from
D to Y, is iVi inches. 6 inches. 5 through to Y to waist line of an inch to \5. and shape gore from
liip,
is
from
this line
measure
to Y.
'4
of an inch to
\"
to
and
and 34
Take the distance from
and divide equally into 5 gores, 4 inches each, which gives u.s to points T, S, R and Q. .\\. the bottom take the distance from 5 to H, anr' divide equally into 5 gores of 8 inches each, give us points 4, 3, 2 and 1. Draw a line from 4 through T to waist line. From this line measure '/ of an inch to P and Y^ to T. of an inch to O, and shape gore from P to T and Draw a line from 3 through S to -waist line, from this line measure >4 of an inch to N and Yz of to S. to S and an inch to M, and shape gore from Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line. From this line measure J/, inch to L and Y2 inch to K.
Draw From
Shape gore from L to R and K to R. line from 1 through O to waist this line measure l^ of an inch and I to Q.
This completes the 11 gore
line.
to T
and
V^ of an inch to
I,
and shape gore from
J to
skirt, for a figure
with a high stomach.
211
Diagram 107
212
WOM:i:N.
ELEVEN GORE FLARE.

Diagram 108
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
Length Front
43
45J-4
inches
inches
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
47
inches
Length Back
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions for box as given
Front gore
at hip, in
diagram
105,
page 20U
to
Y, 3 inches.
to 15
is
6 inches.
Draw
Take
a line from 15 through Y to waist line, from this line go out U, and shape gore from V to Y and U to Y.
the distance from us points T, S,
inch to
and
yi inch to
to
ar d divide equally into 5 gores of ^Yz inches each, which gives
and Q.
15 to
I,
At bottom take the distance from 12, 9, 6 and 3.
and divide equallv
into S gores,
which gives us points
Draw Draw
From
a line from 12 through T to waist hne. to O, and shape gores from P to T and
From
this line
measure
Yb inch to
P and
inch
to T.
a line from 9 through S to waist

this line
line.
measure
5^ inch to
and
'^ch to
M, and shape gore from

measure
to
S and from
K,
to S.
line,
Draw Draw
a line from 6 through R to waist and shape gore from L to R and

a line from 3 through
I,
from from Q.
this line
J/ inch to L, Y2 inch to
to R.
this line
to waist line, to
measure Y& inch
and shape gore from J
to J
and
Y& inch to
and
I to
To add
the flare on this skirt go down from waist line 12 inches on each gore. front gore go out 1 inch from 15 io 14.
At the bottom
The second gore

The The
2 inches
from 15
to 16,
and
12 to 11.
8.
5.
third gore 2 inches
from 12
to 13,
and 9 to
fourth gore 2 inches from 9 to 10 and G to

7,
Fifth gore 2 inches from 6 to
and 3
4,
1
to 2.
1
Sixth gore 2 inches from 3 to
and from
to
H.
inches for the flare
down
to
center.
Trace out gores

to
1,
2 and
3,
No.
from
to
Y
up
to 16, across
bottom
to 11,
up
and P, over
at waist line.
No. 2 from
to S, 10 across
bottom to
tc
R. L, and over to
I,
to waist line.
I at
No. 3 from I Q 4 over bottom to H, up and over to waist line to I.
to
and
go
in
Ya-
inch to
the center back
lint
The other
three remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched one after the other.
213
Diagram 108
>
214
THIRTEEN GORE PLEATED SKIRT

Diagram 109
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
Length Front
43
inches
Hip
Length Back
42 inches
Length Side
45
inches
45^2 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions for box as given in diagram 105, page 20u Front gore at hip, D to Z, is 3 inches. Ij to 17 at bottom is inches. Draw a line from 17 through Z to waist line. From this line measure '/i inch to X and ;,4 inch to W, and shape gore from X to Z and to Z. Now take the distance from Z to G and divide equally into 6 gores of 2f4 inches each, which gives us points Y, T, S. R and g. At the bottom take the distance from 7 to Fl and divide equally into b gores 7^4 inches each, which gives us points 14, 11, 8, 5 and 2. Now draw a line from 14 through Y to waist line. From this line measure :Ks of an inch to V and -/fi of an inch to I', and shape gore from V to Y and U to Y. iJraw a line from 11 through T to waist line; from this line measure 'j inch to 1' and inch to O, and shape gore from P to T and O to T. Draw a line from 8 tlirough S to waist line. From this line measure ;>ii of an inch to .\ and j/g, of an inch to M. and shape gore from N to S and to S. Draw a line from 5 through R to waist line. From this line measure -ji of an inch to L and Vn of an inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. Draw a line from 2 through O to waist line. From this line measure J4 '"^-h to [ and V4 inch to I, and shape gore from J to O and I to O. To make pleats in skirt, measure down from waist line any depth desired, in this case 18 inches down on front gore and 1 inch higher on each gore to the back. To make the pleats in skirt, measure from the straight line 1 inch to 30 and 1 inch to 29. From straight line 1 inch to 28 and 1 inch to 27. |_' From straight line I inch to 26 and 1 inch to 25. From straight line 1 inch to 24 and 1 inch to 23.1 I'Vom straight line 1 inch to 22 and 1 inch to 21. From straight line 1 inch to 20 and 1 inch to 19. At the bottom of skirt measure 2 inches at the first gore from 17 to 16. second gore 2 inches from 17 to 18 and 2 inches from 14 to 13, third gore 2 inches from 14 to 15 and 2 inches from 11 to 10, fourth gore 2 inches from 11 to 12 and 2 inches from 8 to 7, fifth gore 2 inches from 8 to 9, 2 inches from 5 to 4, sixth gore 2 inches from 2 to 3. To trace out gores 1. 2 and 3. .\o, 1 from \V to Z to straight line over to 30, down to 18, across bottom to 13, and up to 27. over to straight line up to Y and V, across waist line to W. No. 2 from O to T, down straight line, over to 26, down to 12, across the bottom to 7, up to 23 to straight line, up to S, to N, over to waist line to O. No. 3 from K R to straight line over to 22. down to 6, across bottom to 1, up to 19, over to straight line, up to O to J, across waist line to K. The other four remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched on after the other. This completes the 13 gore pleated skirt.
'
..
215
Diagram
09
216
FIFTEEN
GORE
1
SKIRT.
Diagram
10
MEASURES.
Waist Hip
25 inches 42 inches

.....47
43
inches
inches
ASyi inches
Length Back
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions for box as given
in
diagram
105,
page 20L)
The front gore at hip, B to 7 at bottom is 6
3 to T, inches.
is
3 inches.
a line from 7 through 3 to waist line. measure 54 of an inch to 2. ^4 of an inch to 1, and shape gore from 2 to 3 and Now take the distance from 3 to G, and divide equally into 7 gores of 25<2 inches 1 to 3. and Q. each, which gives us points Z, Y, T, S, and divide equally into 7 gores of 5 inches each, Take the distance at the bottom from 7 to which gives us points 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 ana 1. Draw a line from 6 through Z to waist line. From this line measure fs of an inch to X, }i of to Z and from to Z. an inch to W, and shape gore from Draw a line from 5 through T to waist line. and Vz inch to U, and shape gores from V to Y and U From this line measure ^2 inch to
this line
Draw From
from 4 through T to waist line. measure yi inch to P and Vj inch to O. Shape gore from P to T and O to T. Draw a line from 3 through S to waist lin_ From this line measure -Is of an inch to N and fi of an inch to M. to S. Shape gore from N to S and Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line. From this line measure fs of an inch of an inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. Draw a line from 1 through O to waist line. From this line measure ^4 of an inch inch to L Shape gore from J to Q and Q to L
Draw From
to Y. a line
this line
to
L and
and
yi
yi
to J
This completes the 15 gore
skirt.
217
Diagram 110
Riding Habits
and
Breeches
220
SAFETY RIDING SKIRT.

Diagram
ill
MEASURES.
Hip
Waist
:
42 inches
25 inches
Length
Side
42 inches 43 inches
Back
44 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Front part, draw
line
A B,
to
41J4 inches.
Square over on Hne
AB
49 inches.
to 12
is 3^4 inches; inches to 7 inches; to 3

;
A
is
is
to 11
A A
is 5 inches; to 10 is 5M inches; A to 9 is 7 inches; A to 8 is 8 9y2 inches A to 9 is 14^/1 inches A to 5 is 29^ inches A to 4 is 333/2 35>^ inches; A to 2 is 39 inches; A to 1 is 4I>^ inches; to C is 49
; ; ;
inches.
Square downon
all
the given points.
12 to 13 is Yi inch; 11 to 14 is 1^4 inches; 10 to 15 is 2 inches; 9 to 16 is 2>4 inches; 8 to 17 is 2^4 inches; 7 to 18 is inches; 5 to 31 is 7^)4 inches; 4 to 30 is 5^4 inches; 3 to 29 is 6j^ inches; to 35 is 19 inches. 2 to 34 is 16 inches; 1 to 28 is 1>4 inches; C to 17 is 25 inches;
2%
to
is
41)4 inches.
Connect
B
is
D.
D
;
to
26
to
is
8 inches.
is
Liii^.ii:ir^
;
to 25
3 inches
22
5>4 inches
to 23
is 7>34
inches
to
24
is
11 inches.
Square over the given points.

22 to 36
is
3|4 inches; 23 to 20
is
7^2 inches.
At waist
line,
from 14
to 15
is
inch for dart.

all
Draw
waist line from 13 through
points to
6.
Measure down from waist

to 19, 21 inches,
]/>
line 6 inches to dotted line for hip. of hip measure.

;
Measure dotted
line
from 21
Make
a buttonhole at point 28; a loop at 29
a strap at point 31, 14 inches long,
inch wide.
Between points 34
35 make a loop
for foot to rest.
Place pocket on left side front, any desired length or shape. the opening.
The heavy
line in
pocket indicates
Draw
line
from 1314
1516171861931302928272625242113.
in
This completes skirt shown
illustration.
221
Diagram
111
222
BACK PART OF
'-"
SKIRT.
Diagram 111
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
A B,
34-)4 inches.
Square down over on
line
A B
46 inches to C.
to
is
lYz inches.
inches. inches.
A A A A
A A
to i7 to 36 to 35 to 34
to 52
is
5^ is 7%
is is
10 inches.
11
inches.
is is is is is is
\2y2 inches.
133/2 inches.
to 31
A A A A
1
to 29
to
17 inches.
.
28
26>4 inches.
to 27
to
39/2 inches.
46 inches.
Square over on these given points.

to 2 is
434 inches.
is
i7 to 39
10^
inches, to 38
is
15 inches, to 14
is
is
18'4 inches; 15 to 17
15 inches, 32 to 6
is
is
2734 inches.
inches, 31
to 7
36 to 4
is
1434 inches, 35 to 5
is
9 inches, 34 to8
11%
is
103^ inches, 29 to 30 is Yi inch, 28 to 2i is 24'/, inches. 27 to 24 is 22 inches, C to 25 is 11)4 inches, C to 26 is 4 inches, A to 10 is 16 inches, A to 11 is 18 inches, A to 12 is 19 inches. A to 16 is 2434 inches, A to 18 is 303^2 inches, to B is 3414 inches.
Square down 18
-Square
to 20, 18 inches. to 19, 14 inches.
down B
to 13
From
11
is
3'!'
inch, 12 to 15
-^.s
inch.
Shape dart from
15 to 14,
13 to
14.
Draw
1.^ waist line from 16 13 to 10. for hip. Measure dotted line. 17

19,
line
IO34 inches, J4 of
37. 33,
li'P
6 inches to dotted measure.
line
For other part of skirt shape waist line from 2 to 6 inches. For hip, measure dotted line 3 to straight line from 20 to 2i.

IO34
inches,
;4
of
to dotted line Draw hip measure.
From 20
Shape
to 22
is
4 inches, 22 to 21
is
334 inches.
skirt
from
373330282625242321201917161513109
in
]/>
8756-432.
At point 19 ease
inch between notches.
5.
Place button at back of skirt 3 inches from
This completes the back part of
skirt.
223
Diagram
12
225
SAFETY RIDING HABITS
SHOWING THE DIFFERENT POSITIONS
226
RIDING HABIT (SIDE SADDLE). FRONT PART.

Diagram
11}
MEASURES.
Waist
25
inches
Hips
43 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
1
lines
is
is
and
1
2.
is
to 4 to 7
ly^ inches,
to 6 to 5
8 inches,
to 8 is 12J^ to 3
3.
is
is is
inches.
20 inches,
is
il inches,
5
is
46J^ inches.
Square points
4 to 9
8 to 11
is 2^/2
is
4, 6, 8,
7 and
on
line
inches, 6 to 10
7^
inches, 6 to 13
8J^ inches.
TYi inches, 7 to 12
is
6^4 inches, 5 to 31
47 inches.
Connect 3 with 31, 31
32,
17 inches.
Square down from 32 to
Zl, 3^^ inches.

31.
1
Draft bottom line from 3 to 23, to

1
to 15
is
12 inches,
to 16 to 21
16,
is is
12>j inches,
to 19 is 213^2 to 2
is
1
inches.
to
20
is
25 inches,
30>4 inches,
34-J4 inches.
Now
square points
is
15,
19,
21 and 2 on line
is
2.
15 to 14
4 inches, 19 to 18
inches, 2 to
is
XIV^ inches, 21 to 22
is
is 3j/2
inches.
2 to 25
is
534 inches, 2 to 26
is 6-'4
30
is
9 inches, 2 to 29
10>< inches.
Now
Now
square points 25, 26, 30 and

is
29 on line 2
1
'
29.
is
25 to 24
2Y\ inches, 26 to 27
is
inches, 30 to 21
is
5>2 inches.
draft
357910^11131418
pocket.
and back,
1720222324272830 down
to 31.
11 to 12
is
This finishes our front part.
227
Yront part
'-i^
^32
33
DiAGRAMll)
228
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMZN.
RIDING HABIT (SIDE SADDLE), BACK PART.

Diagram 1 14
INSTRUCTIONS.
For back part draw
lines
A
F
to
to to
is
9 inches,
AC
is
and
to
15^
Square points F, E,
and C on
A B. A line A C.
inches,
to
is
25^
is
inches,
to
is
48 inches.
D
C
N R
is
to
W
G
is
Square point Draft bottom
Now
Draft
W down X X, Y, C. connect XV UT, X T

to
6-j4
15 J/2 inches, F to Q is 25 inches, E to I 35j4 inches, D to S is 36% inches, D to is 44>4 inches, C to V is 45^/2 inches.
inches.
is
is
10 inches.
49i/2 inches.
line
T S Y.
is
is
38 inches.
A A
3 inches, is 6j4 inches, to L is 10j4 inches. to to B is 22>2 inches. 1834 inches, Square points G, K, L and P on line B. to J is 5 inches, L to is 1% inches, P is -54 inch. to is 7 inches, draft down to Y. If the width of the material allows to put the back part in one piece, leave out dotted line.
to to
G H Now
M C D F H IJM NO BQ R
K
229
Diagram 114
230
DIVIDED RIDING HABIT SKIRT

Diagram
1 1
MEASURES.
Waist measure
25 inches
Lengtii
40 inches
12 inches
Hip measure
44 inches
Rise
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw hne
.\
.\
t(.)
1.
A B.
!/4
is
is
hip measure,
11
inches.
lo ]) to
r.
waist measure. 2? niciies.

full
I)
is
length. 40 inches.
L'se .\ as a pivot
and sweeji
to
L and
1)
it
inches below
hi|))
|)oint
V.
do same
to
.\1.
I'se
1)
as a pivot and sweep from
to J
and from F
to S.
to E is waist measure plus 3 inches: namely. l.\'/j inches. The o inches o\er are taken out. 1 inch each at the darts 1 12. Darts must he equally apart from 10 and 11 8, 9 I' to \3, and are 1 inch aljove the hip line.
2.
Draw line C through E to G, giving point 13. 13 is now exactly the liij) measure from F. This diagram shows two inverted plaits; one in front and tiie other in liack. Make plaits K L and (> inches at bottom R P O, as dotted line shows: the 2 inches on top D
same
3.
in back.
is Rise measure 12 inches: same with J to T in back: to L' to \' is 6 '4 inches. '4 waist measure: yi waist measure. \nect and W.
from
J S T
is 4'/4
to
to
is
is
iyi inches.
7 inches.
Con-
.\
to
inches, 1/6 of waist
measure
to
The sweep at bottom must be taken 40 more in back.
inches
all
is fi inches. Connect L M O to R. around from waist line, allowing 1 inch
231
\<P
Ô
12
Diagram
232

RIDING BREECHES.
Diagram 116
MEASURES.
Waist
Hip
Rise
-
42
Inseam
inches inches ll-M inches inches 30
25
Knee
Small of Knee
Calf
Angle
16 inches inches 14 14>^ inches 10 inches
FOREPART.
From A square out and down. to C is 11-34 inches, rise measure. C to E is Yi of inseam less 1 inch, 14
inches.
1 inches, small of knee. K to F is 4 inches for calf. C to B is full insteam, 30 inches. more or C to P is 1/3 of Y/i, hip, 103^ inches, in this case 3^/2 inches. This point changes less, according to larger or smaller sizes. Square over all given points. is 3-4 of hip, 10>2 inches. C to Square up point D to S and down to Al. This completes the box. This point changes y% more or less, according to On hip, to V is 3^ inch, 1/3 of hip.
to
is
larger or smaller sizes. D. the distance of is D. is >2 the distance of to S, which locates point T. Draw line from Measure over from S to 28, 34 of waist measure plus
V^ inches.
This
1 ;/>
inches are taken out
in
the dart between

1
1315.
to
is
inch.
from R through 28 to 17. 17 is 1 inch from point A. Raise waist line from R to S, 28 to 20, 1^2 Shape dart from 25 to 1514241314.
Draw
line
inches.
C
f
to
to
is
44 inch,
; ; :
26 is ^2 inch L to 27 is 1 inch 27 to X is 634 inches 7 to Z

\'
Shape forepart from At top, from S R
T 26 277
T and
83-2
2028 P H IX Z 1.
6.
is
8 to 7 is y^, inch 6^4 inches 6 to

;
M
1
to
is
2 inches
26
to
is
7 inches
is
654 inches.
This completes the forepart.
BACK PART.
Draw Draw
line
line
from U through from 16 to 17,
up.
I'lace
inches, 2>2
These 2/^ inches are taken out between 19 20. Raise from 17 to 18, 16 to 29, 1>4 inches, and shape dart from
square on an angle to 17. inches more than ;4 of waist measure.
232021221921.
to 10, 16 inches
to
is
2 inches, J to
to
is
inch,
to 12
is
2 inches.
Measure 26
ure.
1,7 inches.
Place the 7 inches on 26.
Measure over
knee meas-
Measure over to 9. 14 inches, Mea.sure from 27 to X 6 inches, and place the 6 inches on 27. small of knee. Measure 7 to Z 6V2 inches. Place the 634 inches on 7, and measure over to O HK- inches for
calf.
From 6
to
is
5,4 inches.
more than ankle measure.
Place the 5 '4 inches are taken out between 2 and 3. These 2 inches on 6. Measure over to N, 12 inches, 2 inches
Shape as shown. Point 4 is 1/^ inches below calf. Shape back part from 18 17 12 109ON. 27. At top, from 29 16 For under lap on back part 9 to 8, N to 5 is 1 3/2 mches.
T W Y
This completes diagram.
233
DiAGRA.M
16
234
PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS CHILDREN

Sizes
235
PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS MISSES AND JUNIORS

Sizes
236
FIRST LESSON. EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER.

DiACRA.M
119
MEASURES.
Bust
28^2
26^/2
inclies

Waist
inches
Hip
Across Chest
32
12
13

Across
6 6^ Ayi 5>^ 11^

8
11
inches
inches
Back
Neck
Sleeve
Shoulder
13^/2
4^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Uraw
line
.\ to E is 11 j^ inches, length of 5^4 inches, neck height in back. F to B is inches, second hip. Square over is 4 inches, first hip. C E F B on line A ^B. C to D is 3/2 of bust, 14 '4 inches plus 3 inches allowed for In a three piece coat we allow 3 inches for seams, and in a two seams, 1/34 inches. piece coat we allow 2 inches for seams.
A B.
to
is
waist in back.

is
]4,
to
-I
to
Q
is
>2 inch allowed for breathing. of bust measure. 2]4, inches.
D
C
to
G
I
is is
'4 of bust
5^/2
to
inches,
measure, 4^4 inches. V2 of back measure.
to
Square up and down D.
Square up
G H I
on
line
D.
237
m^
4f>
4^
4t)-
#
Diagram 119
238
SECOND LESSON. EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER.

Diagram 120
MEASURES.
Bust
28J/2
inches
Waist
26^
32
12
13
inches
inches
inches inches
Hip
Across Chest
Neck Height and

Across Back
Shoulder
133^2
to
Waist
...5J^
6 6)4 4^ 11%
8
11
inches
inches
inches inches
Neck
Sleeve
4)4 inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
For box follow instructions as given
in
First lêsson.
to
to
is
2 inches
is
to
is 4j/<
inches, second rhoulder height back.

.'square
I.
6^
inches, first shoulder height back,
over A-
on
line
A B.
In squaring over P. point
is
found crossing
line
to
is
'/z
inch.
Draft back neck,
A O.
Draft back shoulder,
O S,
4-j4 inches.
At
front. to
to 3 is 6 inches,
first
second shoulder height front.
Square point
3.
is
8 inches,
shoulder height front.

1
Square point
over I34 inches to
17.
to
is
2 inches.
Square over
to 27.
Draft neck curve, 17 to 27.
Draw
front shoulder chest measure.
from 17
to 4.
same length as back shoulder,
O S.
to 2 is
6 inches, yi of
Draft arniscye from S 2 to 4. In drafting a^mscye be careful not to go inside of line I R, also not below bust line. It is very important to follow the draft of armscye very carefully, as nothing can l)e added to an arniscye that is too large, but w hen an armscye is too small it can be made larger. This completes the box.

17
239
Diagram
120
240

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD REEFER.
Diagram
121
MEASURES.
Bust
2834 inches 261^ inches 32
12 13
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
Neck Height and

Across Back
to
Waist
...Sj^
6 6>4 4^^ 1L>4

8
11
inches
inches
inches
inches inches
Neck
Sleeve
Shoulder
13J4 inches
4^
INSTRUCTIONS.
For box follow same instructions as given
At waist
line,
in First
and Second Lessons.
to J
is
'i
inch; J to
is
3 inches;
to
is
y^ inch;
to
is
4 inches; 4 to
5 is -H inch.
Take center of L
to
15.
K, square down, where

6,
line crosses
on
first
hip measure y4 inch to 10,
'i
inch
Take center of
to 12,
to
square up to 28 and down.
Where
line crosses
on
first
%
A
hip measure 34
'ncli
inch to 11.
to
On
hip,
from F
is
34 inch. yi inch.
is
At back neck,
to
U
at
W
to
is
Draw back
line
from
and 16
134 inches for lap.

is
Draw
W A J V
from
tfj
16.
From
line
to T,
to
as shown.
From S
shoulder to 29
3 inches.
Shape two back gores as shown.

At
front,
on
hip,
18 to 19
is
134 inches.
Draw
front line
from
Q 19
to 17.
To make garment double

For
lapel
breasted, from front line measure 23^ inches to 26 tance back for button stand.
20, the
same
dis-
and collar, measure from deepest point of neck, 32 to 23, 1 from bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 33 to 21 is 2^4
inch.
Draw
straight line
back measure,
WO.
inches, 34 inch
more than
234 inches,
Square on line Z'l ^26, 1 inch to 25, for standing band of collar, and from 24 or any desired width. 34 to 22 is 34 inch allowed for spring.
to
34
is
Shape back of
collar
from 25
21
2-1
22.
Shape
collar
and
lapel as
shown.
collar.
To
To
trace colar, place separate paper
under the collar and trace out the shape of
trace lapel, break on line

will be reserved
26
24,
turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which
on opposite
side.
This completes the diagram for reefer.

26
W OMEN.
241
Diagram
121
242
SEMI-FITTING COAT.
Diagram
EIGHT YEARS.
122'
MEASURES.
Bust
285^ inches
263^2
Shoulder Height Front-. Shoulder Height Back
8
G'/z
....5}4
Waist
inches
Hip
Across Chest
-
32
12
13
inches
inches
Neck Height and

Across Back
to
Waist
6 4^2
11
11 -H
Neck
Sleeve
inches
Shoulder
4J4 inches
13^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
in First
:
and Second Lessons.

; ;
to J
is '4 inch. Take is inch J to 6 is 5% inches 6 to 7 ib 44 inch I to T is 1 inch B to inch to 13, 14 inch center of 67, square down where line crosses on first hip. measure inch to 8 and }i inch to 9. On second hip, where line crosses, measure to 14.
;
Shape back gore as shown.
At front hip
line,
from 18
to 19 is 1'^ inches.
Draw
front line
from 27
O 19
1
to 11.
To make garment
To
draft lay
line
double breasted, measure from front line 27 11, Zyi inches to 26 From 27 to 28 is 3^2 inch taken out. distance back for button stand.
12,
same
down
collar,
measure from deepest point of neck, 16

to 24.
to 23,
inch.
Draw
O K.
from 28 through 23
28
27 to 22- is 2}^ inches,
]'4
more than back neck measure,

any
Square over on
line
24,
desired width.
20 to 21
inch to 25, for stand band of collar, over to 20, 3 inches, or is J^ inch allowed for spring at Ijack.
Shape
collar as
shown.
243
Diagram 122
244
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM3N.
SEMI-FITTING COAT, FRENCH SEAMS, EIGHT YEARS

Diagram
12J
MEASURES.
Bust 283^ inches
Shoulder Height Front-. Shoulder Height Back
Waist
26J4 inches
-
6 6>4 4>4
8
inches inches inches inches inches
Hip
Across Chest
32
...12
inches
inches inches
Neck Height
Across Back
Shoulder
to
Waist
5>^ 11%
11
Neck
Sleeve
13
4%
13 j4
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
in First
and Second Lessons.

is
At waist
line,
E
is
to
is
1/2
inch;
to 35
3>4 inches; 35 to 34
is
>2 inch; 34 to 9
is
4 inches;
9 to 8
>4 inch.
At
shoulder, from
line,
At bust
I to inches. Take center of 34 hip measure ^4 inch to 12 and >4 inch to 37.
O to T is U is Iji
23/^
inches
to
is
2 inches.
35, square
down, where
line crosses
on
Take center
of 8 9, square up to 29 and down, where line crosses on hip measure 10 and yi inch to 11.
'/i
inch to
Raise back neck from
to
34 inch.
Draw back K
A M
to 38.
Shape back and gores
as
shown.
At
front,
line
on hip, from 18
to 19
is
D/o inches.
Draw
27Q 19 13.
At bust line, from to L is 31 to 33 is yi inch taken out.
3'/:
inches.
Square L down.
-u inch taken out.
At shoulder, 32 to 28 is 2% inches, 28 to 30 22 4. Reshape armscye from 29 to 4.
is
This Ji inch add on point
To make garment
gore coat.
double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given
in
three
After pattern has been cut out lay pattern together

to 4.
at points
28
30 L.
Square shoulder over
245
Diagram
123
24b
EIGHT YEAR BOX COAT.

Diagram 124
MEASURES.
Bust
ISyi inches
26J/2

Shoulder Height
Waist
inches
inches inches
inches
Hip
Across Chest
32
12
13
.Sleeve
Neck Height and

Across
to
6 inches Back 6>2 inches Waist ...5^ 11^ inches

8
-^'/i
Back
11
4->4
inches inches
Neck
Sliuuldcr
13^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
in First
and Second Lessons.
Allow on bust 2 inches more for seams than the natural bust measure.
to
is
1/2
inch.
Draw
line
from
K M
to 10 full length.
line.
to
1
2')
is
point 7 on waist
From
7 to 9 to
is
inch.
Square 1 >2 inches. 7 to 8 is 1 inch.
down
2'',
which gives
Draw
For
straight line
from 29 through 8
12 over to 10.
This completes back.

\'/2
front,
draw
line
from 29
9
to
11.
From
18 tu 19
is
inches.
Draw
front line
from
O 19
13.
To make garment
121,
double breasted, collar and
lapel, follow
same instructions as given
in
diagram
pageXHO.
247
Diagram 124
248

PLAIN COAT SLEEVE. SLEEVE CORRESPONDING TO EIGHT YEAR OLD.
Diagram
125
MEASURES.
Half of Back
5'/2
inches
To Elbow
22 >4 inches
15'j inches
Full Length
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
A B.
3/2
to to
is
M
L
is
of back measure, 5>4 inches.
A
I
is
ISyi inches to the elbow, and
to
is
ZZjA inches,
full
length sleeve.
3/2
the distance between

is
M
I
and D.
to
3^ of bust measure.
AJ
to
D
on
is
inch
less.
Square over on points
D L
to B.
line
A ^B.
to
is
Vi of bust
measure plus 2 inches, allowance for seams.

to
Square point S down

Point
H, over
is is
3^ the distance of
13/^
S and
iVI.
to to to to
to
is
O X
P
inches.
is
is is
1
144 inches.
y^ inch.
inch.
Q
T
is
Ys of bust,
3^
1
inches.
K
L
3^ the distance
between
and
J.
B.
Square down point K.

to
inch to
is 1
inch.
Draw
line
from
to
53/2
inches for top sleeve, and
to A'
C) to
is
I
^yi inches for undersleeve.
Shape the top sleeve from

Shape undersleeve from
through
R
to
to
P
to
through
through
to E.
through
to
to
\'.
This completes the sleeve.
249
250
BISHOP SLEEVE WITHOUT SEAMS. SLEEVE CORRESPONDING TO EIGHT YEAR OLD.

Diagram 126
MEASURES.
Bust
ZSyi inches 26>4 inches

Waist
6>i
8
,
inches
4>4 inches
inches
inches inches
Hip
.Across Chest
52
12
13
inches inches
inches
Neck Height and

.Across
to
Waist.. ..51/2
II V4
11
Back
_
Neck
Sleeve
Shoulder
13
>/^
4^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
.\ to
line
A B.
Syi inches; L to is 34 of bust, 7 inches; to B of bust measure less 2 inches. Square over points points E to K. This completes the bo.x of the sleeve.
is
is '/s of bust, which of bust. A to E is
is
O
C
;
7 inches, J4 and B.
Square down
is
'/>
the distance between and E S to to P is >< inch to is >^ inch

;
N T
to
is
is
!>
inch; to F is 1 inch; and L to the distance between and B
is 1
inch;
to
is
2y2 inches.
Shape sleeve from
B O C N
through
F P K
and
to R.
This completes sleeve.
251
252

EIGHT- YEAR-OLD
KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT.

DiAGKAM 127
MEASURES.
Bust 283^ inches 26>2 inches 32
12
13
Shoulder Height Front Shoulder Height
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
inches
inches inches
Meek Height and

Across Back
Shoulder
to
6 Back --.5^ Waist 11^

8
6J/2
4>'2

niches
11
Neck
Sleeve
4^4 inches
13^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
coat, follow
in
same instruction
For collar diagram 124, page 24^. as given in diagram 129, page 25'/.
and double breasted
h'rom 29 to 25 is 1 inch. Square over 2o, ly^ inches to 24 and 36. Square up 25, 13 inches, length of sleeve, to 28. 28 to 30 and 33 is 1 inch. Draw line connecting 36 to 30 and 24 Connect 36 with 7 and 24 with 7 for the under-gore of body. to 33.
l-rom 25 to 17
is
2}i inches.
Draw
.\llow
line
from 2^
17 to 21 for front sleeve.

1
Square over on
this line to 22.
from 21
to
to 20,
is
inch.
Draw
line
from 201724.
From 20 DinW Draw

line
22
4^
inches.
I
from 24 through
from 22
to 23, Syi niches. to

32.
line
234
line
is
This completes the forepart.

16.
For back
oiif
part,
;
draw
15 to 14
from 36 through 17 to 4>4 inches.

to 31, 5 inches.
.Square over 16 to 14; 16 to 15
is
inch taken
Draw
S
is
line
from 36
Shape as shown from
15
17
is
1
to
36

14
31
S.
inch raise from
up
to O.
This completes the back part of sleeve.

1 1
Shape the underarm front part of coat from
to 24.
7 to 9
to 36.
inch.
is
1
Shape the back part of the underarm of coat from 12

Trace out the back part of coat and sleeve from
to 12.
8 7 8 K O S 10 12 31 15 1736
to
inch.
14
The
front part of coat remains on the paper as
shown
in the
dotted
line. 7,
Trace the undersleeve and gore of body from 7

diagram.
363033 24 to
as
shown on the
side of
253
33 28 30
Diagram 127
254
HOW TO MAKE
EIGHT YEARS A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN

Diagram 128
INSTRUCTIONS.
Lay pattern together
at
underarm
as (ioilcd line sliows.

Sy.i
To
place the
to 2,
is
new seams under the arm. measure from neck, 8 to 7, 83/ inches, and from 6 to 4, W'/, inches. Draw straight 3 inches. Reshape armscye.
line
line
inches, square over 7 from 2 to 4. 2 to 3
To make garment
To make
double breasted measure out from front back for buttons.

collar, lay front
4 inches to
16,
same distance
and back shoulders together on point 9
1.
Collar
is
cut without stand
band.
Draw
straight line
from 16
is
to 9.
11 to 10
i.s
At back from
For
15 to 11
5 inches.
y2 inch for spring.
Shape
as
collar
from 16
10 for shawl collar.

sailor collar square over
on back 12
93/2
I?,
6 inches to
1
13.
Shape
shown.
coal.
For shovel
collar
15 to
14
is
inches.
Shape from
to 14.
This completes the
DRAFT SLEEVE.
Diagram
i29
,
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line .\
!>.
to 9
is
is
i/^
sleeve.
all
9 to 6
2^4 inches,
of bust measure, Syi inches. 9 to B is 14 inches, fifll lengtn of Jess for each inch at underarm of coat, 3 to 2. Square
given points.
8 to
C is 13 inches, 1 inch less Draw line from A to 3 and C to

than yi of bust measure. 6 to 7, 5 to 4 3. A to 1 and C to 10 is ijA inches. 1

1
is
is
lj4 iuclie.;. the center of
A C.
is
the
underarm
sleeve, joint to Doint 3 at
underarm
coat.
255
s <
o <
PC
00 CM
s
<
256

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD
RAGLAN COAT WITHOUT SEAMS.

Diagram 130
MEASURES.
Bust 28y2 inches 26y2 inches
Waist
6J/2
Hip
Across Chest
32
12
13
inches
inches inches
Neck Height
Across Back
Shoulder
of Waist
8 4^ Syi ll}i
11
Xeck
Sleeve
4j4 inches
13^^ inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given in diagram 124, page 242. This coat is cut without seams. For double breasted and lay down collor, follow the same instructions as given in diagram 122, page 238.
Draw
straight line
from 12 to 32. Reshape shoulder from 12

line

11
13
is
thee center of 12
32.
Square over 13 to
-Square
11,
'4
inch.
32.
At back, draw
from 29
to
O.
is
the center of
O 29.
over to
-54
inch.
Reshape shoulder from 28
29
TO.
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOUT SEAMS.

Diagram
131
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given in diagram 125, page 248. At undersleeve measure the distance from Q to X. Place Q on 12 and X on 29. Ease between Q X _^2 inch. .-\t back, measure the distance from 29 to O, which is 7 inches. Place the 7 inches on point I to 7. Square over 7 to 6, 2 inches. Draw line up from I to 6. 4 is the center of 6 I. Square 4 to 5, "/^ inch.
Shape from
.\t
5 to 6.
front,
measure the distance from 12 to 32, 8 '4 inches. measure up to 9, 834 inches. Square over point 9
Place the 834

to 8, 2 inches.
inches
on
point
P,
Draw
straight line
from P
to 8.
8.
is
the center of 8
is
P.
N
11
Square over
2, j4
inch.
Shape sleeve from P

Square point
2
2^
This sleeve
cut through at shoulder.

is
up
to 10, 3 inches.
is
to 11
line
'4 inch.
to
is
)4 inch. to
At bottom,
to pletes sleeve.
inches.
Draw
from
W 1086 101
W.
This com-
257
Diagram 130
Diagram
13I
258
ONE PIECE KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT WORKED FROM A BLOCK PATTERN.
Diagram
I32
MEASURES.
INSTRUCTIONS.
Lay
front and back shoulders together as dotted line shows.
is
.J4
17 to 9
inch.
11
16 to 10
Square
over to 6
is
inch.
Draw
line
7, 5 inches.
12 to 15
from 9 10 and 12 to 13
to 12.
is
From
The
5j/ inches.
9 to 11 is 6*4 inches. 12 to 14 is 1 inch.
Draw
from 6 15 7 to 13. Shape bottom from 13 1-1 15. and 2 to 7 is 3 inches, which is lost at the underarm of waist. we gain by placing an under gore in the body and sleeve.
line line
distance from 6 to 3
Tliis distance
which
is lobl
Draw
Take
from 7
to 8.
6 to
5,
6 inches.
the center of 22 23, which is 19. Square this point up to 18, 6 inches, same distance from 7 to 8 and 6 to 5. Square down 19 to 20, ISyi inches, the same distance from 7 to 13 and 6 to 15, length of sleeve. 20 to 24 and 21 is 1 inch,
259
Diagram
132
260
THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM.^N
HOOD
NO.
1,
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD.
1
DiAGRA
133
MEASURES.
Bust
28 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
to
E and B. D and E to F and F

line
to
is
always
of bust measure, 7 inches.
Square points just given,
which constitute box.

Place jacket back and front together as dotted line shows, and draft neck curve E to C; C to is front of jacket or cape. Now draft curve B through G to A, as shown; J4 inch all
261
Diagram
133
262
HOOD
NO.
2.
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD.
Diagram 134
MEASURES.
Bust
28 inches
1,
Top
of this hood
is
same
as No.
with
to
e.'vce[)rion
I
of
to
;
being
of bust, Syi inches.
From F
to P is 4 inches, and respective sizes I to

;
from B
is
1
is
inch.
Now
Sy^ inches increase or decrease these distances for connect these points with straight Hne, as shown.
Now
draft curve from
through
to A.
HOOD
NO.
3,
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD.
Diagram i35
MEASURES.
Dust
28 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow instructions as No.
2,
with exception of following:
to
is Syl inches, and as shown.
to
is
2 inches; J to
is -x^
incli
draft line
to
to line
K G A,
263
Diagram 134
No. 2
Diagram
I35 No. 3
265
CHILDRENS COLLARS AND CUFFS
-^^
ONE PIECE CIRCULAR CAPE.

Diagram 136
INSTRUCTIONS.
Place front and back shoulder together,
F.
At back from
to
is
inch.
Draw new
For sweep
line
at
from
A
C
to B.
to B, pivet
bottom
on point E.
267
Diagram 136
268
CIRCULAR CAPE WITH ONE DART.

Diagram 137
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw an
angle from
line
to
(.'
.\ to K and .\ to C. Take front and back of eoat pattern, and back on line A to K allowni},' inch from j to (1.
1
lay
front
on
.At
back shoulder from
to
allow '4 inch for neck.

to C,
Take length of shoulder from V

.spring.
and make
(i to
the
same
length.
to
I!
is
inch for
For sweep
at
bottom from B
to
pivot on point A.
269
Diagram 137
270
HOW TO MAKE THE
INSIDE
FRONTS OF A SEMI-FITTING COAT.

Diagram 138
INSTRUCTIONS.
At the present time the fronts ait worked without canvas or hairclotii, to avoid the stiffness of the coat. Instead use camhric, as shown on the illustration. Cut the cambric the same
shape as the material.
Ai the front, from 17
12
to 13
must he cut on the straight of material, the same from

.
5 to lo.
Stvv the outside and cambric separatel) then pi ess the both seams open, and baste the seam of with one or more bastings as shown. tiie coat with the seam of the cambric together, Also baste the cambric around the shoulder, armhole, under the arm and down the front.
To work
the lapel, make short .stitches through the inside of the cambric, catching the cloth withThen tape the break line, 11 12, being out showing the stitches through on the right side. very careful not to stretch the cloth, also from where the collar joins around the shape lie careful not to of iapel ease in the cloth from 17 to 12 and from 12 down to bottom, stretch or ease in the cloth.
F'.etween 9
10 cut away 3 inches of the tape, which is IJ/j inches above length. cut away the 3 inches so as to give the garment more
We
and below the waist freedom at the waist
line in
front.
HOW TO
At the underarm of coat from 3 line, 1 2. Press on this
PRESS IN THE SIDE FRONT OF COAT.
line as
fold the material over to 5 6, which will give us the crease much as possible, so that the underarm, 3 4. becomes
perfectly straight with the front seam, 5
6.
HOW TO MAKE
Cut the collar
bias, also short stitch
COLLAR.
perfectly
tween 20
flat
when turned down.
18, so collar will lay the lapel and stretch well l)etween 19 When sewing the collar in the neck, ease J4 iT-"h be-
21.
271
l.>
Diagram 138
272
HOW TO MAKE THE
FRONTS OF A TIGHT-FITTING JACKET.

Diagram 139
INSTRUCTIONS. A
garnu-iu
respect.
made according to these As shown in cut, the

it
dry and press

.\t
thoroughly,
instructions will surel\- prove to he satisfactory in every front has French seams. First sponge the canvas, tncn .\fter that cut out according to pattern.
point 1 of canvas take out a \ of -ys, inch, also at the points 13 and 8. edges, cover them with a piece of tape and press thoroughly so as to
cut a piece of haircloth
at points
Having joined
the
make seams
lay Hat.
Now
around the armhi.le and
bust, as
shown
in cut.
'
Take out
rect for
less
inch is cor9 and 10 J/j inch each to obtain the required fullness. This 36 inch bust measure; if the bust is larger we have to take out more; if smaller.
_.
than J/ inch.
the edges,
to
tiatteii
Now
baste haircloth on the can\ass, sew Ui\ye around haircloth from protruding.
and
to
prevent
the
No. 14 represents an extra piece of canvas, which is sewed as far down as point of dart to obtain more stiffness over the bust. At the waist line cut canvas as shown in the diagram.
Make
a small dart
from
-1
5,
sewing tape on top of
it
as
shown
before.
On
the outside, at the place where zigzag line sary fullness at the waist as shown by
(
is drawn, hold in, while pressing, to get the necesshadows at 6 and 7 in the diagram.
I
Now we
In
are ready to place the canvas with the haircloth on the both together with small bastings.
lapel use short stitches
left side
of the goods and to sew
making the
right side,
11 to 12,
on the canvas, catching the cloth without showing on the and giving the lapel the necessary rolling shape. Now sew tape from point and from 13 to 12 to 2 and from 3 to 15, holding in top goods and canvas while
sewing on.
Between 2 and 3
at the waist
is
I'lie
the goods have to be stretched.
When
everything
joined press with a verv hot iron.
273
DlAGRj\Ml39
Alterations
276
DIAGRAM
Hoiv
to Alter:
A.
Reduce the back part from

at the
to B, say, >4 inch, as
shown
in
dotted
line.
Then
move B
back part up to A, the forepart.
Allow
at the
bottom of the back part Yi
inch from
to C.
FIGURE
Fault:
A.
The back
:
part wrinkles at the side.

part
is
Cause
The back
too short for the forepart.
277
278
DIAGRAM
How
From
E
to
to
B.
Alter:
Reduce
the forepart froiii
C
is
to D, say, >^ inch.

inch.
A down
is
to dotted line
off.
and over
to
t>
^
G
inch taken
Shape from F
to
as dotted line shows.

to
Square over shoulder from B through b. which locates E, and over

point.
the original shoulder
FIGURE
Fault
:
B.
Coat springs open

:
at
bottom, not enough

is
lap.
Cause
Front shoulder point
too long.
279
03
<
o
<
280
DIAGRAM
How
D
to
to Alter:
line.
C.
to D, say.
Reduce
the back part
from
to F.
',o
B and C
'_>
inch, as
shown
in
dotted
Reshape from
BDE
as
is
the
same
lensjtli
to E.
FIGURE
Fault
:
C.
Coat wrinkles at the back of neck.

:
Cause
There
is
too
much back
lensrth at the
back of neck.
281
U
g
U
<
O <
282
dl\(;ram
11
0:1.'
d.
to .liter:
Reduce the
sleeve
from
A
E
lo
B and C
to D, say, yi inch or
more, as showr
in
dotted
line.
Reduce the undersleeve from

Lengthen the top sleeve
sleeve
to
and
>4
lo
the
same amount, and reshape.

to
at Isottom
inch
from
L and
to G,
and ^4 inch
at the
under-
from
to
L and
to G.
FIGURE
fault:
D.
The
:
sleeve falls in folds sleeve head

is
from the
sleeve head
down.
Cause
The
too short.
DIAGRAM D
How
to
1.
Alter:
the
Reduce the sleeve head from

4,
lo 2, say,
3^2
inch, as dotted line shows.
Reduce
undersleeve from 3 to
the
same
yi inch, as dotted line shows.
FIGURE
fault
:
1.
This sleeve wrinkles at the top of the undersleeve upward.

It
Cause:
has too
much
sleeve head.
283
!X0
284
DIAGRAM
Hoiv
to
E.
inch
Alter:
Take the
fullness out at the side front only, in this case
more or
less
from C
to B, slightly
shaped up to A.
FIGURE
Fault
:
E.
When
a coat
is
too full in
tiie
front at hottoni.
285
UJ
Oi
<
286
DIAGRAM
How
to Alter:
F.
Rip the seam

to
P>.
at top of the side
front gore
and take
ofT
-Kt
inch, in this case
from
Shape down
to bust
iii.e.
The ditsance we take off from
to
B add on
the shoulder
from C
to
D, as dotted
line show:,.
FIGURE
Fault:
F.
Front armliolc loo
full.
287
B a
u
be
288
DIAGRAM
Hoiv
to Alter:
G.
Rip the seam
at
top of the side back gore and take off 34 mc\\ in this case.
I.
From
A B
shape
down below
the Ijust line to
The
distance
we take
oft'
from
to
K add
on the shoulder from
to D, as dotted line shows.
FIGURE
Fault:
l^.ack
G.
armliole too
full.
^89
O
3
IE
290
WOM.i:N,
DIAGRAM
Ho-w
to
H.
at the side
Alter:
Rip coat open

less,
at the
bottom and allow
back gore from
to
inch
more or
slightly
shaped to A, as dotted
line
shows.
FIGURE
I'aitlt
:
H.
When
The
a coat wrinkles across the back at waist line.

is
Cause:
coat
too tight over the hip at back.
291
292
DIAGRAM
Hoiv
to
J.
Alter:
All(3\v at the
back from
1!
to
and
to
-M incli.
Reshape shoulder from C
to F, as dotted
hne shows.
FIGURE
I'tiiill:
J.
When
The
a coat
is
falls in
folds
down
center hack.
Cause:
coat
cut out too deeji at
tiie
hack
fjf
nccl
293
b/)
294
INDEX
Page
IRODUCTIOK PKEFACE. TO SECOND EDITION Rol'oRTlONAL MEASUREMENTS I'KOPOKTIONAL WIDTHS I'Kl li'OKTK )NAL LENGTHS DlKEtTIOXS FOR TAKING MEASURES JACKET LESSON JACKET LESSON 2 TIGHT BACK, L(JOSE FRONT TIGHT HACK. LOOSE FRONT, COMPLETE TIGHT FITTING BACK, WITH TWO DARTS TIGHT FITTING BACK, LOOSE FRONTS, FRENCH SEAMS TIGHT FITTED lACKET FRENCH SEAMS REGULAR COAT SLEEVE HOW TO MAKE SLEEVE WIDER AT TOP HOW TO MAKE RECiULAR SLEEVE SHORTER OR LONGER BISHOP SLEEVE SEMI-FITTINC; WITH UNDER GORE SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SEAMS AT SIDES AND SAILOR COLLAR L( JOSE SEM I-FITT NG COAT SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR SEVEN-EIGHTHS FITTING COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE HI PLESS COAT LOOSE STRAIGHT LINE COAT M< )NTE CARLO C( )AT TWO PIECE COAT LOOSE BOX COAT ULSTER WITH SEPARATE SKIRT LOOSE C( AT, RA( LAN SLEEVE HOW TO PLACE DARTS IN FRONT OF RAGLAN HOW TO MAKE A RAGLAN FROM A P.LOCK PATTERN, LOOSE COAT HOW TO MAKE A COAT WITH A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM BLOCK PATTERN FOR DEEP ARMHOLE COLLARLESS SEMI-FITTING KIMONO COAT SHAWL COLLAR WITH SEAM ON SHOULDER SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN SET ON COLLAR AND LAPEL SIIiiWN ON BLoiK PATTERN TWO-PIECE KIMONO COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN LOOSE FRONT JACKET. THREE-EIGHTHS SEAMS ALLOWED NINETEEN GORE CORSET JACKET E T N J A C KT RUSSIAN BLOUSE TIGHT FITTING lACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT LOOSE FRONT lACKET WITH TIGHT FITTING VEST LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST TIGHT FITTING VEST EMPIRE JACKET NORFOLIv JACKET NORFOLK TACKET TO DRAFT SLEEVE FOR DROP SHOULDER SFMI-FITTING COAT WITH VEST AND DROP SHOULDER THREE-PIECE STORM COLLAR CHILD'S TURNED DOWN COLLAR STANDING COLLAR TURNED DOWN COLLAR HOW DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN OPERA CLOAK ULSTER WITH I50LMAN SLEEVE FICHU NO. 3 FICHU NO. 4
IN
1
I I )
;
y 10
11 12 14 16 18
20 22 24 26 28 30
32 34 36 38 40
42 44 46 48 30 52
54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 12 74 76 78 80 82
"
(J
84
86 88 90 92 94 96
98 100 102 104 106 106 10S
:...
.-.
DOLMAN DOLMAN DOLMAN DOLMAN

I
APE WITH ONE DART CAPE WITH TWO DARTS Co,.\CHMAN'S FUR C.M'E HOW TO GRADE MflNTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT HOW TO GRADE MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT ULSTER NO. ULSTER NO. 2 PRINCESS DRESS
1
NO. NO. NO. NO.
6
7
'.
lin 112 114 116 118 120 122 1 24 126 128 130 132
1.^4
(Continued)
.*.
HOOD HOOD HOOD
KNEE LEGGINS SHOE LEGGINS
NO. NO. NO.
2 3
136 138 140 142 144 144 146 1 46
295
ENDEX
Pt.
TIGHT UNINi; SHIRT WAIST WITH ONE GORE TIGHT FITTING TWO i'lECE LINING LOUSE SHIRT WAIST
li
WAISTS. FIRST LESSON WAISTS. SECOND LESSON IIC.HT iriTED LINING, FRENCH SEAMS
\i1
\'J,
\i* Jj* '5* 160 }6f }6j J6j 166 168
TURN OVER COLLAR IIISHOP SLEEVE TIGHT LINING SLEEVE TIGHT FITTING PRINCESS, FOUR PIECES BLOUSE WAIST, DROP SHOULDER BLOUSE WAIST WITH DEEP ARMHOLE HOW TO .MAKE KIMONO SLEEVE FROM BLOCK PATTERN WAIST WITH KIMONO SLEEVE MANNISH SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE HOW TO MAKE A SHAWL COLLAR AND LAPEL HOW TO MAKE A NOTCH COLLAR HOW TO MAKE A SAILOR COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN HIPLESS OR HOBBLE SKIRT IN ONE PIECE EMPIRE SKIRT lliiBliLE SKIRT WITH ONE PLEAT ON SIDE
PA.XTALOON SKIRT RC U L A R SKIRT THREE GORE SKIRT FIVE GORE FLOUNCE SKIRT F1\E GORE SKIRT SEVEN GORE SKIRT NINE GORE SKI RT ELEVEN GORE SKIRT FOR A FULL CORPULENT FIGURE ELEVEN (;oRE FLARE SKIRT THIRTEEN Go RE PLEATED SKIRT FIFTEEN t;oRE SKIRT SAFETY RIDING SKIRT ; HACK PART OF SKIRT ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING DIFFERENT POSITIONS OF SAFETY RIDING HABITS RIDING HABIT, SIDE SADDLE, FRONT PART RIDING HABIT, SIDE SADDLE. BACK PART DIVIDED RIDING HABIT SKIRT RIDING BREECHES PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS, CHILDREN'S PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS, MISSES & JUNIORS' FI RST LESSf N SECOND LESSON EIGHT YEAR OLD REEFER SEMI-FITTlisG COAT, EIGHT YEARS SEMI-FITTING FRENCH SEAMS. EIGHT YEARS EIGHT YEAR OLD BOX COAT PLAIN COAT SLEEVE BISHOP SLEEVE WITHOUT SEAMS EIGHT YEAR r)LD KIMONO SLEEVE .\ND COAT HOW TO MAKE A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN
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J'j 196 198
lIoliBLE SKIRT
200 202 20j 206 208 210 212 214 216 220 222 224 226 228 230 232 234 235 236 238 240 242 244 246 248 250
2.52 2.i4
DRAFT A SLEEVE EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN COAT WITHOUT SEAMS EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOI'T SEAMS ONE PIECE KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN EIGHT YEARS HOOD NO. HOOD NO. 2. EIGHT YEARS HOOD NO. f. EIGHT YEARS ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING CHILDREN'S COLLARS AND CUFFS ONE PIECE CIRCULAR C.\PE CIRCULAR CAPE WITH ONE DART HOW TO MAKE THE INSIDE FRONTS OF A SEMI-FITTING COAT HOW TO MAKE THE FRONTS OF A TKIHT FITTING JACKET H( )W T( MAKE ALTERATIONS FIC.URE A. DIAGRAM A FIGURE B. DIAGRAM B. FIGURE C, DIAGRAM C FIGURE DI. DIAGRAM Dl FIGURE D-2. DIAGR.NM D-2. FIGITRE.E. DIAGRAM E FIGURE F, DIAGRAM F FIGURE G, DIAGRAM G FIGURE H, DIAGRAM H FIGURE J, DIAGRAM
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American Garment C 00 Eng e

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American Garment C 00 Eng e

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y^

complete, practical, up-to-date

treatise on the cutting of

the latest and

AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY

AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY

All Rights reserved

First Edition of the

American Garment Cutter met with units

precedented success, in reference both to

and the demand for the book

call for this auxiliary instructor in

the drafting and cutting

of ladies tailor-made apparel by a practical, yet simple system, has

rect drafting of the patterns, tables of proportions,

and other features

in the first edition,

will duplicate the successof the

thousands of Tailors throughout

consecrated to the production of perfect fitting

garments for women,

the most cordial wishes of

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

TAKING THE MEASURE.

W.MST MEASURE Draw

tape tight arcnind waist and lake measure.

ure fairly tight.

Four inches lower

NECK ME.ASURE Measure

around neck with

ease, not too tight nor yet too loose.

of bust to wraist front.

SHOULDER HEIGHT FRONT8-22

Measure from pins on shoulder

)ULDER HEIGHT BACK8-24

Measure from pins on shoulder

careful to get this

measure long enough.

OUTSIDE SLEEVE 7-11-12-13. From

center of back to armscye, elbow and wrist.

measure, 6 inches below waist.

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.

Shoulder Heights Back

Neck Height and

inches inches inches indies

inches, neck height in back.

inches, length of waist in Ijack.

4 inches, the second hip.

Square over points

In this case 20 inches.

lost in cutting out the pattern.

;^ inch allowed for breathing.

of bust measure, in this case 5 inches.

measure plus lli

inches, in this case

This point changes

according to larger or smaller

THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN.