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ISLANDS.

com The sun rises over

will and deni mcintyre/corbis


“America’s Beach,”
as North Carolina’s
Outer Banks bills
its history-rich
coastline.

The best
islands
Close
to Home
islands

Best if you don’t yet live in paradise,
of the you can still find it right next door. Many
world beautiful islands lie just a bridge, ferry
ride or short flight away. Even from inland
states, you can be in a dreamy island set-
ting within half a day or less, at bargain
prices, and without all the planning an
international trip demands (though
you’ll still need the sunscreen and beach
towels). The islands listed here — from
Key Biscayne, Florida, to Whidbey Island,
Washington — can be reached in hours,
mere minutes in some cases. Now quit
checking your watch. As soon as you
cross that bridge, you’re on vacation.

b y m at t h e w m i l l e r

78 Ju l y/Au g u s t 2 0 0 9 isl a n d s . c om Ju l y/Au g u s t 2 0 0 9 isl a n d s . c om 79


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Cape Florida The rest of the island is a bit more laid-


Lighthouse, back. The 1890 lighthouse in Gasparilla
Key Biscayne
State Park at the south end of the island
is still functioning. Open to the public,
it exemplifies the Florida vernacular
style, with elevated floors and high ceil-
ings for green cooling invented before
green was green. In the same system
of barrier islands, Sanibel to the south
offers some of the same atmosphere.
But Gasparilla gets you a little closer to
away from it all. the-gasparilla-inn.com

Best for variety


Galveston Island, Texas
� Less than an hour from downtown

f r o m t o p : wa lt e r b i b i k o w / c o r b i s ; l au r e n c e pa r e n t / p h o t o g r a p h e r ’ s d i r e c t
Houston, Galveston Island is 32 miles
long and has 32 miles of beach. That
means it’s all beach. Well, there’s also
shopping and dining in the Historic
Downtown Strand District. And there’s
the Lone Star Flight Museum with a col-
lection of one-of-a-kind aircraft and a
concentration of Victorian architecture
nearly unmatched in the United States,

this all-american island perfection barely fits into a long weekend.


best FOR commuting from the trees. But it’s rarely cold in Key including Bishops Palace (1892) and the
Key Biscayne, Florida Biscayne. When it’s time to leave, just Grand 1894 Opera House, which is still
� This may be the most convenient keep on relaxing — you’re almost home. used for performances from pop to clas-
island escape in the world, at least if silversandsbeachresort.net sical. And for pure prefabricated, zero-
you live in Miami — it’s 18 minutes intellect thrills, there’s Schlitterbahn
from downtown over the causeway Best for relaxation Waterpark. Authentic island culture?
and onto the key, and it’s only 27 from Gasparilla Island, Florida Maybe not, but take the watery 40 mph
Miami International. Visit one of the � There’s Old Florida, and then, across freefall on the Cliffhanger Speed Slide
country’s best swimming beaches, at the Boca Grande Causeway, there’s
Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park (that ­Gasparilla Island, Florida. A little far-
unruly sea grass keeps the water clean). ther out of the way, this one-time haunt Gasparilla Island
Lighthouse
Boater’s Grill on No Name Harbor in of J.P. Morgan and Henry Ford seems to
the park has good seafood and great views. lie a lot farther back in time. Gasparilla
Or peruse Donut Gallery; it doesn’t serve values tradition, and the tradition it val-
doughnuts, but does have great burgers. ues is luxurious Gulf-side relaxation.
For accommodation, choose between At the center of island culture since
the Ritz-Carlton and the Silver Sands it was built in 1911, the Gasparilla Inn
Beach Resort, a midcentury motel close & Club embraces that ethic, as a retreat
to Florida’s resort roots with terrazzo from the stresses of modern life but not
floors and doors that still use keys. from civilization: Jackets are required
Watch for iguanas sunning in roadside in the dining room during the island’s
vegetation around 4 p.m. They also hang “social season” from December to April.
out on the beach and the golf course. If For non-guests, the inn offers tours of
it gets cold enough, they may even fall the historic property twice a week.

80 Ju l y/Au g u s t 2 0 0 9 isl a n d s . c om
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ISLANDS.com
and see if you care. And Moody Gardens Saturday mornings in summer, proof of 1953, and the Outer Banks calls itself States to see the morning sun, but the
offers an aquarium and a tropical rain- the Vineyard’s devotion to local (and “America’s Beach.” Largely protected autumn views from the summit top it

a l a n t i d e p h o t o t r av e l / c o r b i s ; o p p o s i t e : dav i d b r o w n e l l / p h o t o g r a p h e r ’ s d i r e c t
forest enclosed in a 10-story pyramid. delicious) produce from its dozens of from development, the 70-mile expanse all, with foliage in red and gold stretch-
But the rest is beach (not counting small farms. Continue to the “up-is- of sand is packed with historic spots ing to the horizon. Propane-powered
too much other stuff to mention here). land” township of Aquinnah, on land (and picnic spots to match). Island Explorer buses run from late June
The longest continuous sidewalk in the Martha’s Vineyard owned by the Wampanoag tribe, to Blackbeard (Edward Teach) allegedly Bar Harbor, Mount Desert Island to mid-October, providing a free, low-
United States lines the 10.5-mile Seawall see the striking striated red clay of the hid out in the area, and yes, he probably stress way to tour the island and reach
section, restored after Hurricane Ike Woods Hole on the mainland and Vine- Aquinnah Cliffs. Get lobster rolls from buried treasure, but don’t waste your Best for colors trailheads, beaches and other places
in 2008. Ike wasn’t as bad as the great yard Haven (without a car it’s $7.50 per Menemsha Fish Market in the fishing weekend digging in the sand. Established Mount Desert Island, Maine both in the park and out.
storm of 1900, after which they built person). Known as a vacation escape since village of Menemsha and sit on the adja- in 1584, the English colony on Roanoke � Home to Acadia National Park, Mount Revel in some of America’s oldest
the elegant Hotel Galvez — now run by whaling died out here in the 19th century, cent public beach to watch the sunset. Island preceded Jamestown by more than Desert is an island for all seasons. The luxury at the Spa at the Bar Harbor Club.
Wyndham with a renovated spa — to the island is a great place for a leisurely This all-American island perfection 20 years. The Waterside Theatre’s play carriage trails through the park offer Built by J.P. Morgan in 1929, stock-
symbolize the destination’s undaunted bicycle tour. Bring a bike on the ferry barely fits into a long weekend. Better The Lost Colony will reinforce that hint pleasant hiking and biking in spring, ­market tribulation notwithstanding, the
vitality. The island survived Ike too. And for an extra $3, or rent one at Martha’s make it a week. steamshipauthority.com of the Elizabethan era. and cross-country skiing in winter. In club stands as testament to the enduring
it’s relaxing and super fun. Right there Bicycle Rentals a block from the dock. In summer, climb the seemingly end- the summer, park on the east side of value of retreat. barharborclub.com
next to downtown Texas. galveston.com Pedal a picturesque loop: Vineyard Best for History less cast-iron steps of the Cape Hatteras Northeast Harbor and climb the stone
Haven, Oak Bluffs and Edgartown Outer Banks, North Carolina Lighthouse, the nation’s tallest at 208 feet steps up the cliffs called Asticou Terraces Best For name-dropping
Best for biking form the island’s “urban” backbone. � Kitty Hawk at the north end of the and still guiding ships at sea. After pay- to the Asticou and Thuya gardens. The Long Island, New York
Martha’s Vineyard, For an island escape within an island Outer Banks is just 79 miles south of ing homage to flying pioneers at Wright greenery and stone benches create a con- � It’s impossible to list islands convenient
Massachusetts escape, continue to Chappaquiddick the airport in Norfolk, Virginia, and Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil templative atmosphere you may not rec- to American cities without including the
� Summer is the season on the Vineyard. Island by ferry and leave by bike along even the drive from Washington, D.C., Hills, you can be like them (sort of ) by ognize from your morning commute. place so many New Yorkers look to for
The Steamship Authority — in business the sand spit to Katama (if your bike can be done in a long afternoon. Cape doing some low-altitude hang-gliding at Cadillac Mountain is the highest summer escape. Driving east from JFK
since ships ran on steam — runs ferries is beach-capable). West Tisbury has Hatteras to the south was declared the Jockey’s Ridge State Park on Nags Head. peak on the U.S. Atlantic Coast at 1,530 Airport to picturesque Montauk Point
almost hourly dawn till dark between a farmers market Wednesday and United States’ first national seashore in Or fly a kite on the beach. outerbanks.org feet, and it’s the first place in the United State Park, home of (continued on p. 86)

Virgin Islands
U N I T E D S T A T E S ;    :;  

S T. C R O I X I S T. J O H N I S T. T H O M A S
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(continued from p. 83) New York’s oldest summers seem to suggest a whimsical
lighthouse, could take two hours. (Hear literary idyll. Anne of Green Gables, the
that derisive laughter? Add time if a mil- island’s favorite fictional daughter, came
lion or so others escape with you.) here by mistake, then had an unspeak-
Fire Island Wilderness off the south able amount of fun. The farmhouse that
shore and accessible by ferry and bridge Prince Edward Island oysters­ inspired author L. M. Montgomery still
offers New York’s only designated wilder- stands in Prince Edward Island National
ness area. Dr. Stephen Leatherman, aka here somewhere, but they’d rather you Park, which offers a variety of landscapes
Dr. Beach, named two of Long Island’s didn’t visit. Maybe you’ll see them at the — sandbars, wetlands, forests and cliffs.
beaches in his 2008 list of best U.S. beach. discoverlongisland.com Meanwhile, Prince Edward Island’s
beaches: Coopers Beach in Southampton clean, nutrient-rich waters support a
and Main Beach in East Hampton. Best for SEAFOOD world-renowned shellfish industry —
Those familiar with Long Island Prince Edward Island, Canada oysters, mussels and lobsters abound.
from The Great Gatsby — and innumer- � For U.S. readers, Prince Edward ­Island, Visit the recently opened Ship to Shore
able other depictions — have their high- a Canadian province unto itself, is the restaurant in Darnley on the north shore’s
flown expectations to answer to, but the most remote island in this list. Crossing Malpeque Bay. Co-owner and two-time
island’s variety provides a backdrop for the bridge from New ­Brunswick feels North American oyster-shucking cham-

i a n b at c h e l o r / g e t t y i m ag e s
whatever story unfolds. Visit the birth- like entering another world. (You can pion John Bil runs the kitchen. Nobody
place of Walt Whitman in Huntington, also get direct flights here from Boston, shucks like Bil, and he can cook too.
plus the houses of Jackson Pollock in New York and other hubs.) The scenic Confederation Trail runs
East Hampton and of Teddy Roosevelt The surrounding Gulf of St. Lawrence the length of the island along an old
at Oyster Bay. Billy Joel, Calvin Klein, and Newfoundland to the northeast railway right of way, traversing gentle
Martha Stewart, Howard Stern and give the island a milder climate than hills and running through small com-
Steven Spielberg also have homes out mainland Canada. Warm, usually dry munities populated with friendly island

ANDROS ISLAND LONG ISLAND


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beach. Perfect wedding, reunion, and feel your stress slip away as mile
retreat setting. Emerald Palms. Eat, fish after mile of silky sand beach stretches
and be merry. before you and majestic sunsets and
866-956-PALM calm waters embrace you.
www.emerald-palms.com 800-663-7090
www.capesantamaria.com

GRAND BAHAMA ISLAND NASSAU


Pelican Bay at Lucaya Sheraton Nassau Beach Resort
Stay 3 nights in one of our Waterside On the Caribbean’s finest white-sand
State Rooms for $209 p/n and get the beach, Sheraton Nassau Beach Resort
4th night FREE! Located on the water, offers a complete vacation experience,
furnished in rich mahogany décor, with Bahamian hospitality, thoughtful
in-room espresso, steps to beach and amenities, varied dining and abundant
minutes to the best shopping on activities. “Sunsational Savings” 4th
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866-654-1526 credits – breakfast for two.
www.PelicanBayHotel.com 877-782-0149
www.sheraton.com/nassauoffers
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folk exuding a mystical quality that As you drive north from Clinton,
harried city folk sometimes refer to as accumulate a locally sourced picnic lunch
inner peace. tourismpei.com — wine and cheese from Greenbank Farm
(you can also get married in this lovely
Best for wildlife spot if you bring your betrothed), logan-
Channel Islands, California Anacapa Island, Channel Islands berry pie from the adjacent Whidbey Pies
� How did the Pacific look from the Cafe and smoked salmon from Seabolt’s
coast of California 500 years ago? The bring day-trippers and overnight camp- Smokehouse in Oak Harbor.
five island jewels — San Miguel, Santa ers (there are no hotels). The views of Deception Pass are
Cruz, Santa Rosa, Anacapa and Santa From the boat landing on Santa Rosa spectacular, even from above. But hiking
Barbara — that comprise Channel Island, hike to the ridge for a view of the down through the state park (entrances
­Islands National Park offer a glimpse. Pacific so broad it seems to reach back at both ends of the bridge) to the estuary
Although it lies close to the megalopolis in time. Is this what Portuguese explorer can be transformative. Passing
that is Southern California, the archipel- Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo saw landing through ancient Northwest
ago remains remote and well preserved. here in 1542? It’s probably pretty close. forest, you might see bald i s l a nd s . com /
best
The park was created in 1980 for And it’s very close to home. nps.gov/chis eagles and other birds that
the protection of the unique ecosystem, stay through winter for the temperate
which includes Torrey pines and the Best for VIEWS microclimate. Leave yourself some hours
Whidbey Island, Washington

frans lanting/corbis
endemic island fox. Unlike other islands to eat that picnic on the shore.
in our list, the Channel Islands are by � It’s about 25 miles from downtown The drive from bridge to freeway and
nature hard to reach. Visitors here (fewer Seattle to the dock in Mukilteo, but south to Seattle may seem longer than
than 90,000 landing per year) come by once you’re on the ferry to Clinton on the trip up. That’s because it’s 70 miles
plane and boat. Channel Islands Aviation, Whidbey Island, the commute is over instead of 25, but also because you’ll be
Truth Aquatics and Island Packer Cruises and Puget Sound views begin. sad to leave. whidbeycamanoislands.com

Elbow Beach, Bermuda Grotto Bay Rosedon Hotel


A Mandarin Oriental managed property - is the Full service recently renovated resort spread Quiet, friendly and relaxed, Rosedon offers the
ultimate island getaway. A combination of main among 21 lush landscaped acres along the water’s most discerning visitor a wonderful vacation away
hotel and cottage colony, the resort enjoys prime edge. Tennis, watersports,diving, nearby golf, from it all. Surrounded by lush tropical gardens,
locale overlooking stunning South Shore. spa, 3 great restaurants! All Inclusive package Rosedon Hotel offers 44 rooms individually
1-800-223-7434
available. Special: Save $400 on 4 nights or more. decorated with traditional English and Island flair.
441-236-3535 BERMUDA’S BEST VALUE! Located in the heart of Bermuda, within walking
ebbda-reservations@mohg.com 1-800-582-3190
distance of Hamilton.
www.mandarinoriental.com/bermuda lsimons@grottobay.com 1-800-742-5008
www.grottobay.com 441-295-1640
info@rosedon.bm
www.rosedon.com

W W W. B E R M U D AT O U R I S M . C O M

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