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Sandy D'Amato | The Kitchen Technician Fishing for fond memories

Posted: Oct. 5, 2008 When Im traveling I do extensive, almost scholarly research on where to visit, stay and especially, eat. If this research constituted college coursework, Im sure Id have a doctorate or at least be a jolly good fellow by now. Over the years all this probing has led to many incredible dining experiences. Ive chronicled dinner after dinner of spectacular setting, ballet-like service and other-worldly food that led to absolutely scrumptious evenings. When I think back, I can remember only one indulgence that overshadows all those evenings. That is the unexpected perfect lunch. Dinner is the expected time for a bacchanal-type feast, as the workday is over and time is not a factor. Dinner becomes the entertainment for the evening. On the other hand, lunch is usually a break in the day, a time for some quick restoration before getting back to work. So having a no-holds-barred, blow-out lunch is a guilty pleasure that feels so wrong it makes you giggle. Angie and I have had many amazing lunches in Europe throughout the years, but the ultimate was one we enjoyed about 15 years back at Bouley in New York City during the first James Beard Awards. Craig Shelton, then the chef du cuisine at Bouley, introduced himself to us during the awards and invited us to the restaurant the next day for lunch. We walked through the large wooden French Provincial door and were bombarded with the aroma of bushel after bushel of fall apples. We settled into a cozy tapestry-covered booth with golden light streaming through the windows. The absolutely extraordinary plates of food were placed before us on a thick, lightly starched European tablecloth. Course after course built, reaching a crescendo with Braised Artichoke Barigoule with Red Mullet.

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Even though we were smack in the middle of the thriving metropolis of New York City, the only fitting end for this pure slice of serenity was a long nap in our hotel room. Today's dish is inspired by that memory.

Striped Bass Barigoule Makes 2 servings

2 striped bass fillets (6 to 7 ounces each) with skin on, about 1 inch thick 2 artichokes, with thorns and stems lemon 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) 1 medium carrot (about 3 ounces), peeled and sliced into -inch coins 1 small fennel bulb (4 ounces), cut in half, core removed and cut into -inch slices 1 small onion (about 3 ounces), peeled and thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 1 bay leaf teaspoon red pepper flakes 2 sprigs fresh thyme teaspoon dried lavender Zest of half an orange Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste cup dry white wine cup chicken stock Fresh herbs for garnish ( cup mixture of Italian parsley, dill, fennel fronds, chives, etc.) Cut each bass fillet into 2 pieces. Cut off top 1-inch of artichokes and trim off leaves until you get down to the light green, inner, tender leaves. Carefully trim off outside of artichoke bottom and stem, 1/8 to -inch. Cut artichokes in half through the stems. Rub liberally with lemon half, and scoop out the fuzzy choke with a melon baller but do not remove too much of the base. Cut each artichoke in half again to get 8 pieces. Place a large saut pan over medium heat. Add 4 tablespoons of the olive oil and, when it is hot, add carrot, onion, fennel and artichokes and saut 2 minutes. Add garlic, bay leaf, red pepper flakes, thyme, lavender and orange zest and season lightly with salt and pepper, then continue sauting 1 minute. Add white wine and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 1 minute. Add stock and turn off heat. Place a medium saut pan over high heat. It should be large enough to hold all bass fillets in one layer. Season bass with salt and pepper. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to pan and, when oil is hot, place fish skin side

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down and let sear about 2 minutes or until crisp. Remove fish from pan and place flesh side down in pan containing vegetables and broth. Return to a simmer and cook until fish is just cooked, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove fish from pan and set aside. Test vegetables to make sure they are tender. When tender, remove from pan and divide between two bowls. Over medium heat, reduce liquid in pan to about cup. Place fish on top of vegetables. Add fresh herbs to broth, adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and pour broth around fish in bowls. Serve immediately. Sanford S " andy"D'Amato, chef/co-owner of Sanford Restaurant, 1547 N. Jackson St., Coquette Cafe, 316 N. Milwaukee St., and Harlequin Bakery, is a James Beard Award winner. For more information, visit www.sanfordrestaurant.com. Archives When in Rome, do as the taste buds would Cranberry tart brings meal to a sweet close Hazelnuts roasting set the heart afire Hearts melt when cheese meets bread Squash dumplings fit the season and senses Bikers in Italy take to wheels of cheese 2,000 filets gave me the willies Follow taste buds, not chef Shrimp dish good enough for jumbo billboard Right ranch can make salad, day perfect Dramatic service won't upstage veal piccata Yes, folks in Milwaukee want to eat good food Ring dinner bell for Asian chops Grill tuna for a quick dinner Guess who wins in showdown between chef and popular dish? Getting to the root of a good lunch in N.Y. Scratching that 11-year itch When it comes to chowder, I'll take Manhattan Cool gazpacho stretches out summer Young chef changes rooms and his perspective

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