PATTERNS OVER 60 "DRESSMAKING. PATTERNS "RENE BERGHMake Dur PatternsACKNOWLEDGEMENTS tend my grateful thanks toa numberof people: trol Comelissen of Rom, ase pattems on computer; Ruty Tzizik for her support and confidence in, re fr kindly allowing us to photograph some of her garments; ee ‘Snook for his accurate technical drawings; Clarence Clarke f es ain 28 satience and lovely photographs; Elaine L styling; Justine Ma ‘Aage Buus for: Wee iai a make-up; Blrika Schreiber for modelling the garments and for her» By a iytes ate Cala for providing the location forthe Photography the pu eeay se of Laura Milton, Janice Evans, Odette Marais, Suzanne Fortescue, Linda de Viti aoe Susannah Coucher forall their hard work and supportive input; and ultimately to m ‘Nevill, for his endless encouragement and support; my sons, Justin and Hayden for their undertare patience especially during the photo sessions; as well as my mother, Eunice Duffnet, and Liz Newdie Myrtle Edwards for looking after my children so that I could work. J would lke tex sealing down my b for her beautify, redrawing, the computer evitte for her creative This edition published in 2006 First published in the UK in 1995 by New Holland Publishers (UK) Lid Garfield House 86-88 Edgware Road London W2 2EA www.newhollandpublishers.com London * Cape Town + Sydney * Auckland 24681097531 Copyright © 1995 in text René Bergh Copyright © 1995 in photography Struik Image Library: Aage Buus Copyright © 1995 in illustrations Struik Image Library: Gina Daniel and Dave Snook Copyright © 1995 New Holland Publisher (UK) Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, Stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, leetronic, mechanical, photocopying, re in any form or by any means, ding or otherwise, without the prior Written permission of the copyrigl ‘owners. ISBN 1 84537 456 8 Editor Susannah Coucher Designer Odette Marais Assistant designer Suzanne Fortescue Photographer Aage Buus Mlustrators Gina Daniel and Dave Snook Typesetting by Struik DTP Reproduction by Hirt and Carter Printed and bound in Malaysia by Times Offset (M) Sdn BhdGlossary 6 Introduction 7 Material Requirements 8 Body Measurements 10 Drafting Basic Patterns 14 Bodice Details 304 : Piece (as in Lpe or 2pc collar) at the centre front edge where the revere (vb) Cutting wedges from the seam allowances using a notcher. fad? These symbols are transferred to fabrics to indicate “matching points. ort the pattern at a given point, then turn the pattern in struction. A cut ora slit made in the pattern to facilitate a cons! fhen slashing, please ensure that you stop cutting J"5t the end of your mark so that all the pieces still attached together. This will guarantee accuracy : x tu o ; e 2 right angles to the given line, usin * to the given line). yin squareIntroduction ARE YOUR OWN PYTTERNS, with its emnphasi: is aimed at those who have a basic knowledge of sewing and wish to make their ‘own patterns, Having worked for many years in the rag trade, I diseov- ered that only a certain percentage of people can afford to buy off-the-peg elothes, There fare many people who cannoc find clothes that fit them properly. Besides. how many of us really have model figures? And then there are those who eannor find styles am ours that suit them, or who si ply cannot afford to pay today’s prices. Ready-made patterns very often don't fit well either, Lalso decided that it was only fair to share some of the secrets that I have learned over the years. These factors inspired me to write this hook, resulting int a comprehensive step-by-step guide with easy-to-follow instructions, from basic patterns t0 scott as you have furnished yourself with the required tools and equipment, and you have taken your body measurements, ‘you can commence with drafting your basic pattems, No seam allowances have been inchucled in the patter draft and so need to be added on eouypletion, Three siaes of basie patterns in V4 scale have been included at the end of the book ‘These patterns also have no seams and may be seabed up as instructed “To save time and paper, it is only necessary to make up single pattern pieces with ‘eutting instructions which have been clearly marked, ie. although there might oaly be cone part of the front pattern on paper. your might have to cut two out of the fabric ‘Should airy patterns be ent on the fold. pattern (remember ot tes acted seams to this edge) or whether you actually eut your pat worm ont the fold, Clear instructions with informative illustrations show you how to draft variows odice details, necklines, collars and akeves, as well as blouses, sires basie Tabi andl sweatshirts, jackets, skirts, dresses and trousers, Having fitted your basic parteres, - you can now ervate your own sles by couubining details from the various chapter of styles. Tope this book will stimulate your exeative 1 optional whether you mark this on yourCuarrer t Material Requirements attern-making is simplee tham it at first appears. Ik might look tecbnical, but once you have the step-by-step instructions, vous will soon realize just how casy it is to make your own patterns! When your basic pattern is completed, it is advisable to make it up in eabien, ‘or any simile fabric. to ensure that the pattern fits well. Should there be any alterations, they cam be rectified on the pattern before dialting any further styles. Experiment first with your patter making and soon you will find that with practice your confidence and creative ideas will grow. Most people will probably make their patterns on the dining rooms table, but if you're planning a workroom, the ideal height for your table should be about 90 centimetres (3 feet). "The size of wour table depends on the space you bave available ~ the bigyee the table. the greater the work surface. ‘The next step would be to equip yourself with the necessary twols. Most tools and paper cam be bought frou stationers or packasing shops. as in the case of patteru cardboard. Industrial sewing machine dealers will stock items such as scissors pattems sotchers awl punches and even some metal rules. When choosing your paper: bear in mind that tbe firmer the paper. the easier ik will be w handle, Soft paper wars easily. Patter cardbourd may be woo. expensive for everydaw use, brut it woul be advisable, especially for the basic patterns and popular styles. Holes unay be pumched into, the pattern pieces so that each style cam be strung together for tidy storaue. Aunother option is to fod pattern pieces neatly ans store in hinge envelopes with descriptions of their commentsCHAPTER II Vee Body Measurements tis very important to take accurate body measurements in order to guarantee a good fit to your pattern. You will find that in this chap- ter we show how and where each relevant measurement is to be taken. If necessary, ask a friend to take your measure- care to establish the measuring body measurements against those of the measurement chart. If they appear about the same, then use the standard measurements and Se make slight adjustments at a later stage.wel YOUR OWN PATTERNS MAK foundation garments (j.¢. | j an body measurements, wear proper ’ i.e. bra or be When taking body fairly close-fitting pair of pants (trousers) or skirt and top with normal sleeve to f © body measuremer accurately. The measurements should be fairly snug. as th a later stage to facilitate comfort. 7 W L Mi BUST ist Asound alles pam (aboen Sam A fairly snug measurement (Qin) below the ammibote). aroand the waist pet ee SACKE SACK SHOULDER CENTRE FRONT FRONT SHOt ep eeesiiemiecol HEIGHT Fnentheshol. Measur base of HEIGHT der a the meck to the waist = NI RO ACROSS FRONT FULL Faenarminic to armboic shoot Acs EBS TT Tom Gin) down fom thenek ata he eee en Be SIDE SEAM SHOULDER CROTCH OUTSIDE LEG Measuring from the armhole Measuring from the neck to Taken in sitting position from From the waist over the hip. to the waist. the sleeve crown. ‘the waist to the chair. to the ankle. eK) ae a OVERARM UNDERARM ELBOW BICEP From the sleeve crown around From the bottom of the arm- A fairly loose measurement Around the fullest part of the the bent elbow to the wrist. __hole to the wrist. around the bent elbow. upper arm. ‘Tue MEASUREMENTS IN THUS CLIART ARE TAKEN FROM AVERAGE BODUS. THE SIZES RANGE FROM 2 TO 46 (10-1024), USE THIS AS A GUIDE TO YOUR PARTICULAR SIZE. g z £ Be eeSe eRe seek es epeas 8 geeeess iCusroen tt Drafting Basic Patterns n this chapter. the principles and instructions for drafting various basic patterns using standard or individual measure- ments have been provided. When using standard measurements. you will find that. on completion. the pattern will always be properly balanced. Most people do not have standard-shaped bodies and this is where your own measurements should be used. Owing to the ever-changing fashion silhouettes, these measurements may need to be adjusted from time to time. even though the basic principles of drafting do aot change.MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERN THE DRESS BODICE ‘This construction inchides 4 5 em (2 in) ease around the bust and 92.5 om (4 in) ease the waist, allowing for chest expansion and avoiding the ripping of seams. Check thee the and front side seams correspond, as well as your shoulder seams on the back fd Fron accordingly. The back waist dart may also be altered to correet the waist measure i THE BACK WONDER NIGHT —“AERORSRACK ——SHOLLINRSFAM CYR Bac FLL mack STEP 1 We = Yaacross back. Square across at | AB ~ Back shoulder height. GK = Equa Mark this line, KL = Draw a-diagonal line from K to L.10 mi AC ~ Ys across the back plus 1 cm (% in), 3.cm (1 in), Square the line from 4.10 C, DH = Connect D (0 J.J t0 Land L to ft tof CD ~ 5m (2in), an armhole Square the line down from € to D. STEP 4 STEP 2 BM = % waistline plus 4.5 em (1% in) (4 en DE — Shoulder seam. DE meets AC at E. BF ~ Centre back length. Mark F on AB. EF for the dart and 0.5 cas or ix for the Square this line ~ Curve this line from E, squaring the GN = 1GK. eS BO — GN less 2.em (4 in EP 3 OP ~ 4m (1' in), Join N to O and N & HQ = Side seam length. OF BF plus 3 en (1% in), Draw this line from H through M 1 ¢ ean een a 1.25 cm QP ~ Curve Q 10 P gently to:comples ft tee Sate the line across feom G, The back bodice is now ready for ~ kG. further construction oF eel “Eioe si DRAFTING BASIC PATTERNS {Ms SHIREWAISTER HAS BEEN BELTED TO FORM A WAISTLINE = ‘To use the back bodice as it is for a dress back, contimue with Step 5. STEP 5 Fora one-piece back, place the centre back on the fold. For a zipped back, add a 1.5 cm (i in) seam to the centre back. ‘Add Lem (is in) seams to all the other edges. Shorten the dart by 2.5 cm (1 in) and notch the dart at the waist. Notch centre back at the neck and waist and notch shoulder and side seams as indicated. ‘These notches will indicate the stitehlines when sewing, Double notch the armhole to correspond with the sleeve when the sleeve pattern has, © been constructed, eeREE MOF ster y fa ees AB — Fromt shoulder height. Mark iets lime. EM — Draw a cltggorval hive oN AC — Yeacross front plas Fens Cis ine) 25. aw (1 iw) ‘Sqpsare the line frow & to. C DE = Commeer 1 (0 KK to Mian Mas | CD ~ tem (1'2in) the aemitiole: ‘Sqpare the line down from C to D. STEP 4 ster 2 HIS — 5S crv (2 i). Neve 86 ow 8 DE ~ Shoulder seams DE meets AC at E. NO Ff pias fem Mein BF — Cenere front lengits. Mark F om AB. BR = Sicde- secre lemgtty. Draw ihe line fiom AG— Equals AE ples 1 cm (% i). thregl: O rR Draw a diagonal lime. NQ — JK pias 1.25 cam (law EF — Square the line across from FE BR — NQ less 2 cam (% in)! Square across at ‘Square the lime down: from ED. BS — BRpias £5 aw Join E to F through G for s curved neckline. PS. — foie Stor P tev commpiere thre warsitine Reskape after fering, SE — #5. ene (UPe i). jouw Que Rane Qe STEP 3 Bet — Equals % AB. m- ‘2 Fall frome measurement pias. Lem (in). ‘Square the line across from Ht ose seanwaitowances: F JK — Yracross the fone measucement, Brust, i is Better give _ Sqaze across at J. ' dart tw fornt a sideKath Gt Che Tits (hd Mark the CIAL he Ya Walot art clase (ivntns the silo dant AQ AA (o> orien the ae patie by 5 cA (2 AN) Gn Ue ta i. ( Send Ne eadge fra © A, Unity BER 6 Hace the centee Fant Hae on fold Add 1 ca Cc) seniie all round © Mark the davic a the a Alavi patti, Noteb the Always nntel the ceniie unt al ‘the wel anal dhe waist, Notel the shoulder andl side Seana (0 anster the tite tives vale satel at he armabiole round wil he sleeve when 1 Ihe bees CunAIAIA HE DRAFTING HAGIE FATT ERWSvintus: 25 cat (i). ite from 8: ‘Square the line from 3. € live across from 4 on both sides oe Fehon Gand v0 cross K ont tfirongh Panel Eo cross theDRAFTING BASIC PATTERNS This becomes the back sleeve cap. TS. ~ Equals the loose wrist measurement. Mark Sen I. ST ~ 2em (He ind, Square the line down from S. TW — RIB Mark U ont, TT - Connect t through « to T, thus making ssare that the bine curves slightly, TH ~ Join To. STEP 6 @ ET islonger than DL. AM— WAR Mark Mon AK, © Mark an elbow dart oa either side of H, measuring DN ~ WDC. Mark N on DC. join MN about @ erm (3¥4 in) in length and width so that MO- MN. ET (with dart closed) will measure the same as Mark Q.on MN. DL This dart measurement should bes 3.em AP — YAL Mark Pon AL. (Ye ie) in width, QE — HCE Mark Q on CE join PQ. © Ada Tem (35 in) seams all round except the hee (CD) PR — HPQ Mark Roa PQ. which should be about 3 cm (1 in) in width. Make one notch in the front cap and two notches in the back cap. Also notch the dart. Mark the grainine from A to B © Before notching the centre of the sleeve cap, Bt the sleeve onto the back and front bodice armholes, Make the corresponding notches in the front and back arraholes. AD — Draw a curved line from A through © te D, shift- "tng Mand N about 1.25 em (in) as illustrated, : comes the front sleeve cap. - Dean ine from A through R to E, shifting, dQ about 1.25 cm ($2 in) as illustrated.MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS VE CAP OR CROWN ERING THE SLE heck that the basic sleev AL Pk If not, the following methods s into the armhole of the bodice pattern whieh you hy may be used to alter the sleeve crown. Please ensure that thy ease at the top of the crown. The flatter the erown, the less ease is required and likewise the crown the more ease is required, About a 1 em (% in) t m (% in) ease is suffice) STEPI © Drawa line from side seam to side seam underarm, © Draw a line from the centre of the crow to the first line. @ Slash a vertical line from the crown dow then a horizontal line from the centre tc ensuring that the parts remain attache STEP 2 @ Fora flatter crown, overlap the panels A crown as much as is needed. © Mark the centre of the new crown. STEP 3 © Fora raised crown, lift the panels A an necessary and fill in the crown at the ce the central notch. © Ifthe bodice is extended at the side seams. the armhole. Ifa wider sleeve is required Measurements may be added to the sleeve si Tis EVE CROWS HAS REE FLATTENED StucHtTLY from the underarm to the hem.—_—_ °° ° ”»¥ ss DRAFTING BASIC PATTERNS PHE JACK All juckets require extra case around the bust, waist, hip, neck and arn so that they may be worn comfortably over blouses or dresses, Use the blouse bodice hip foundation and alter accordingly, Fora davtloss jacket, alter the dartless shirt pattern (as seen on page 25) a Las. (a wd a) J (he) 1asew (hw) FRONT 125M Lower neckline by 3. mm (‘4 in) fa Extend shoulder by 1.25 em (‘4 in). ae ” On Drop armhole by 2 em (4 in) Increase busi/hip meastirement by 1.25 em (Y in) Add 2 em (% in) to CF for single-breasted jacket Add 8 cm GY¢ in) to CF for double-breasted jacket BACK Lower neckline by 3. mm (jin). Extend shoulder by 1.25 em (in). Drop armhole by 2 em (% in), dom" ease bust/hip by 1,25 em (2 i HACK fo THONT 1280 Increase bust/hip by 1.25 em ("4 in) Cony SLEEVE Raise crown by 2 em (% in), Increase width of crown by 6 mm (4 in) on each side Widen sleeve at underarm: and hem 1.25 em (9 in) on each side own (len ou 4) 1asew 1250 Wie ro) Ad) — sernve Laven (ied TREES HACKING JACKET IS A GOR EXAMI OF 4 BASIC aeMAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS THE DARTED BLOUSE This hip forindation purterny will be quite slinn-fitting. becarise only a 10 cr (4 in) ease Thi y fownd inclucled srenaeed the Inest and a 2.5 cm (1 in) ease has been added to the waist. DARTS ESSUME 4 SLRGEETTING, PLATRERNNG EFFECT ster) © Using the dress front bodice, pivot atthe bust point to make the waist dart about 4 cm (1'% in), enlarging the bust dart © Extend the centre fromt length by 20 cm (8 in). © ‘Square a line across fromm C.to D to measure that of the bustie a the armie so that AB equals CP. © Join to the waist a the side seam, as iMhustrated, STEP 2 © Drawa line from the bust to the centre of the waist dart to th © Mark im the balance of the dart be! waist as illustrated © Drop the centre front hem by I cm curving the line gently to the side © Shorten the darts at the bu 5 em (2 im). STEP 2 © Trace the back bodice © Extend the centre back by 2 © Square a line across from C that of the back bustline AB at the © Join to the waist at the side seam, 2s STEP 4 © Draw a line from the dart poi the centre of the dart at the waist © Mark in the balance of the dart below waist as illustrated © Shorten the top dart point by 5 cm (2 in hTHE DARTI ESS SHIRT Use the hip foundation pattern t¢ constr this pattern can only be used sati 2500 is) Sem Qs) a STEP 1 © Mark the position of the slash line on the neck, 2.5 cm (1 in) away from the centre front. © Drawa line from this point to the bust point. © Mark the position of the second slash line on the armhole, 5 cm (2 in) away from the sicle seam. © Draw a line from this point to the bust point STEP 2 Slash the side dart and these lines from the neck and the armhole respectively, ensuring that the picces remain attached at the bust point. © Close the side dart by spreading the neck by 6 mm (Yh in) and leaving the remainder of the spread at the armhole, as illustrated. STEP 3. © Round off the neck © Round off the armhole, © Eliminate the waist darts. © Straighten the side seam. ae ota dartless pattern for shirts or blouses. Plea DRAFTING BASIC PATTERNS se note that y for looser-fitting garments or when using knitted fabries © As the armhole increases in size, the same measure- ment should be added to the sleeve cap, so that the armhole and sleeve correspond STEP 4 © Straighten the side seam of the back and eliminate the waist darts.MAKE YOUR OWN FATTERNS = THE SKIRT . is of Construction remain ; seusemally, but the basle method pain dain te ired for the skirt construction. | Reese FO mUND.CHF oer omar | Pepsin rome oon te ee NG Re CE ee, ‘Tomy rar kor tan sus, | SE rr oe 9 EB. 8 ory Se Um cn roms mm 2 pe Sweiee: Hae Camceserne ‘Hor cmevsaramunce Steet AB ~ Centre front length. AC = 16.5 cm (Grin) down from the waist CD — ‘4 hip measurement plus a 1.25 crs ( BE ~ Equals CD. Square the line from 8. EF ~ Equals AB phis 6 mm (¥4 in). Draw a line from 1 AF ~ Connect with a gentle curve. BG ~ a sweep. Extend BE to G. ‘Connect G to D. AH ~ Ye waist plus a 1.25 cm (4 in) ease. HY ~ Rate by 1.25 cx (33 in). Curve the line from A to } JD = Connect. STEP 2 BK ~ Equals ii BG. Square the line from the side seam to K. (Curve the bem genaly: Draw the hipline parallel to the hem. ‘Am optional 1.25 cm (¥4 in) dan, {cm (4 in) long, mary be made ‘at the centre of the waist instead ‘of casing 1.25 cm (¥3 im) into the waistband ‘Mouse or a shir at the waist and tho allows forthe changes that ake ‘when aligning the waistline.STEP 1 AB — Centre front length plus 1.25 em (a in) AC = 18 em (7 in) down from the waist. CD = Y hip measurement plus a 1.25 em (Yin) ease, BE ~ Equals CD. Square the line from B. EE — Equals AB minus 6 mm (¥4 in), Draw: line from E through D to E AE ~ Gently curve this line, BG = Ysweep. Extend BE to G. Connect G to D. CH = 10cm (4 in) to 11 cm (4% in), depending on the size of the hip. A) - Equals CH. Connect H to) Make a Veshaped dart (1.25 em or in on either side of }), AK ~ Ya waist plus 2.5 em (1 in) for the dart KL = Raise by 1.25 cm (#2 in). Curve the line from A through J to L LD = Connect STEP 2 BM — Equals ¥2 BG. Square the line from side seam to M, as illustrated. Curve the hem gently Draw the hipline parallel to the hem. This is purely to indicate the position of the hip. EOC se DRAFTING BASIC PATTERNS a SMOOEMER FIT. ONE USt THE SIDE SEAM AND THE FIRST oar QHD.a pear in a variety of leneths from shorts to long trosers. The shape may aly» a ns a goad fit. itis necessary to constrect your own basic tromser pattern. Te snr be through the hem. Notch the cap to « mr the armholes,— casein 8 BA Pulte a suitable fabrie to . pleats will be, The more the e ‘ 4 Ma |: 4 og \ -~\ @ Mark 5 dots 4 em (about 12 in) apart on the crown placing the centre dot in the middle of the crown, © Draw the lines as illustrated. Mark the sections A to H. Slash the crown from the top downwards and across to the sides, Sections C to F will be separated but, A,B, G and H must remain attached. Fold the sleeve in half to establish the grainline. STEP 2 © Spread the sections evenly along the crown, thus raising A, H, B and G by about 2.5 em (1 in) each. STEP 3 © This crown may be gathered from B to G. © Add 1 em (4 in) seams all round, except for the hem, which should be 3 em (1/4 in). Notch the front, the back and the shoulder as well as the points of gathering, . Gn ¥ TUE RED/PLE AT sleeves are very fe crown is spread, the fuller the [ D CROWN ine and need to be cut in ute the right effect, The more the athering or deeper the rows is r ed, the puffier the shape will be. ") am en oe STEP 4 © Fora pleated crown, carefully notch the gaps between B, C, D, E, E and G to indicate the pleats, as illustrated © The centre pleat may be boxed or inverted if so but the front and back pleats should face desire the direction indicated, in this way ensuring a 4 pleasing fall or drape.MAKE YOUR OWN PAT SHIRT SL ‘This sleeve may be pleated at the ent ey 2 STEP 1 © Trace the sleeve outline. Slash from the hem to the dart point and close the dart. STEP 2 © Establish the euff width. © Shorten the sleeve by this measurement less 1.5 em (% in). © Divide the sleeve into 4 equal parts and mark A to D. Drop the hem by 2.5 em (1 in) between Band D. © Curve the hem as illustrated. \ about 73. Allowances peeve WITH CUFF ff or gathered, depending 1. Om average, the overar neck 10 wrist measutesnirny garment, . f i 1.5 em (% in) longer ex (280% in), This allows the sleeve to fall slightly. han the fitted sleeve without the cuff must be made for the shoulder pads and certain -1»\ STEP 3. © Slash the panels from the hem to the ‘town, ensuring all the pieces remain ‘attached. Spread to the desired width, step 4 Mark E midway and back sean “tT the centre line FF should measure about 8 Mark F also line and midway between the centre back side seam, ‘The cuff length should Mark the width on Mf Nant sped ices the pleats Add Lem Chin m (3% in). be about 23 em (9 i ee =O Cutting two pieces for the sb need to be cut (i.e. top and und the sleeve and the cuff, makin:SLEEVES PROPPED SHOULDER ‘This isthe ideal sleeve for those who want to wear a slooveless garment and yet do not want fo expose their shoulders, Extending the shoulder seam in this way forms a slight cap sleeve, For a comfortable fit, vie necessary to drop the armhole slightly so that the new armbole measure losely to that of the regular armhole, t sTert | © Establish the shape of the neckline ‘@ Draw aline through the shoulder at the armhole, squared with the centre front, as illustrated. © Extend the shoulder along this line by about 8 em (about 3%4 in), \ @ Drawa line from this point to the new neckline ( © Drop the armhole by about 3 cm (114 in) and join to the shoulder, : © Repeat for the back bodice. STEP 2 Aeissy © To ensure that the armbole shape is correct, place nal, if necessary, As indicated. the shoulders next to each ot sotto ee) cn curve slightly Ghw Add 1 em (% in) seams all round the shoulder Notch the underarm andl other appropriate places. Som (LYE) © This armhole may cither be bound of faced to finish 5 mm (2 in) as illustrated by the dotted line. Jewcy)! a 8 ‘Ais connesronnina seams stout we CHEERED ON FAC AGENStE MATCHING SEAM LENGTIS AND 10 ENAMME WE PERM CLLAR SAMS WHERE NECESSARY— MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS a STEP 9 © Trace folded sleeve patiorn, the front elbow line 90 that © Curve the elbow at the back, DVL the sleeve at the ‘by-4 cin C14 in). ‘hem moves forwary © Mark in the 109 eve of the underaren, pwoerte ‘Elo tworprce Hewes some tattored daverses, When constructed cory bso Kniown wv a tailored sleeve, is prin, con jarkows anid sanyo that carreaponds 0 the natural curve of i Huai wi eve ix also dependent on a well-tiniy of thin supported by a shoulder pad rer) © Cutline the sleeve, f Slash from hem to dart point and close the dant STEP 2 © istablish the width of the sleeve at the hom andl alter accordingly. © Mark the centre line and fold in the side seams to meet at the centre line © Mark in the elbow line, © Secure the centre line by using sticky tape ab ® i) PRONE view OH THOT" is 3:~C Oe SLEEVES step 4 4 Mark the sleeve seam lines within the sleeve asillustrated, from 2.5 cm (1 in) at the top to2 - i WAKE YOUR OWM PATTERNS TAILS conti ae jt je jacker patterns and combi ii Vorionve jaccen ratte cs bre sacle Wy oie the brake jacket ; a farienvs jacket pr ia a itnibe dbineronerl iv she gorevicnrn cleaner Phere re #0076 exo JACKET WITH SHAWL COLLAM HOXY DOUBLE -BREASTED Hi vs f ‘ j HACK AND FRONT BACK AND FRONT t © Use the bic fucker pattern with darts, Establish the © Use the basle cartless jacket pattern | centre hack lengrh Votlow the instructions for Style B fstablish the centre back length. The ‘ / cn ge 100, Panel the frant accordingly. Ceve to the seam is optional, Use the double-h 4) Ahem at the centre front ; COLLAR, SLEEVE AND POCKE : COULAR © For the collar, follow the instructions | | | © See the shel collar om page 56 using Steps 1 (0-3, collar on page 54, drawing a rol line! j point on the double-breasted fr < 'j LD AEs shoulder at the neck, Continue as f ° © See the Cvcrpiece sleeve on page 64, breasted, Steps 1 10 7 ny Pocket # For the sleeve, see the two-piece slec j # Operving 19 cm (6 in), Depth as desived, Auch the : Per ane ore Inside seam with eontespondiig shape. sired (about 20 om or i betiemectnet, tert ae The pocket may be attached in the sit 1 | | FAGINGS AND LINING FACINGS AND LINING \ @ Use the contre front panels for tues © Trace the front, draw a parallel line from i for linings "neler to page 80 Point about 16 6mm (6% in) wide, then 7 aii shoulder. Curve the line gently. Refer @ SEAMS ant Add 1 cx (Hin) (all the pattern pieces, SEAMS. si Vein forthe chet 2.3.0 Ci on he © Addl 1 em (itn) to all the pattern pees = ema em Cae 1 rth poate We) ek a poker bem 3 cr bem. Make har m, . Hand 3 erm (about 11% in) for the poPATTERN 1» Kise the basis dartlens single tyeaoterd jar bet AE # Paiablias the wenare back length, Stash from the Hm upwards ane spread tn she desived width ONT Shah and spvend the Srons v0 eonswoproned oth Wie baal Add vp buttonstand as on page 72 COLLAR © Sethe ope piers shins vnllar on paye 92 Midhe sighudy wider, ronnd off she points Sittve Fallow tinicitons for raylan slewve vn pane O° 1 . Lami shou wo abot 3% in) ennrvinn wentY aghn sesan ayeh nvasiianing she sane ni “nthe "Spina, Rater in pay 80 fo nines “a 1H LY tn) vo al the plewew. Hein 9 evn (170 19) ‘Wah 2 e4n (1) IAEKETS BOMBER Ihckey Whe leash varies Soon she syod ty she bi Vie Hind nny be Silsead ov eluotioute BACK AND FRONT @ Loe base dares jaro, Fstabglils centre bee length Jiack hewp to i and, Make front to enrzespand sth Iraels, ching hem 4 i ban BAND fo Kistablish she width of the band, Can double te syidihh Length to fit snnghy om the Dip COLLAR fo Blot to the onw-piene shirt colar 0 P sibeve 5 sleeve swith cull on page 02 Sex (hye hint al ? pocket vos with tbe Hap on page foe the pleated roe 7 ‘Opening, 14 ea (90 FACINGS AND LINING fe Faxings ih abot 0 60 wilder rand curving J. sleeve and body , pei 0 el x ill be aise 4 ii yt cr sens wo be 19.0 fe 1 sn (1) al eo chen) forte open enkirt lengths and shapes change seasonally, but the basi y. basic methods of construction remain the same. They play a majo waistline may vary, classifying the skirts as either slim, full or shaped. Slim skirts may have soft fullness at the waist and not at the hemline. or be developed with flat pressed ull and pleats or straight panels, still retaining a stn lec heir width at the hemline ‘and sometimes also at the pressed pleats and cieles pressed oF 0 1 as culottes, may be ly known Variations to the divided skirts, more wide en for skirts.Bs MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERN WAISTBAND of “The waistband mensarement must eorrespas tothe > 5 cm (1 in) wckilep moet Be dilee for the button. The width will vary according 1, 25 em im, a cr ZFew(in) = F om |Add 1 cm (6 in) seams all round and notch the fold line, the centre front, both the centre backs and the extension seam as illustrated ‘This waistband construction will apply to all skirts and trousers the skirt or trouser waist. and ;), THE ELASTIC MEASUREMENT GUIDE | “These guides might vary slightly according to the width and? finish of the elastic. They will apply to both the skirs Gaus ws emis 2 Finished measurement Sem cm Som Wem r | IMPERIAL MEASUREMENTS Rin 2in 26in Bin Din Minimum stretch measurement cm em co a a . IMPERIAL MEASUREMENTS. Sim Tim Se Pan E a * Finished measurement Stem es a IMPERIAL MEASUREMENTS Be ane pe ‘he i Minimum stretch measurement em Wom oh ae IMPERIAL MEASUREMENTS 35 in. we eae | 39in + in in ‘Fuushed measurement, Bon IMPERIAL MEASUREMENTS, Bin — 89cm Tem Li | Minimum stretch measurement San. Gn, ‘a 27% ime kin un (MPERIAL MEASUREMENTS Sin ta Bem 104 em 1opemSKIRTS yo FOUR-PANELLED ed SKIRT “Connte front length gem (7 in) “i hip eireumference pI square this Tine “Wot GD, Draw an are above D about 25 em (almost 10 in) Jong, pivoting ack. “Wher elrewnference, Square the Tine from B _ faquals BE First place the square touching point F forthe lower edge and touching the outer curve of theare for the centre back line, ensuring that DF «PG. Draw FG and GH. fiquals AB plus 6 men (¥ in) Hus a 2.5 crn (1 in) case Equals Ys BE Equals Mo FG Connect and then slightly curve the line = Wan ‘Square the line from A M= Equals AL. Squate the line from 1. N= Connect and then slightly curve the line IN = Riguals 42 LM. J0 = Equals Ya JK. NO = Connect for the side seam, nd. Equals BC which equals GQ. Drawa curved hip line from © through Pog NR = Equ sith your waist meas 1.25 cm RP = Connect, Cre step 4 @ split the side @ Add bean (i ack which i810 1 hem should be ab e th to prevent appropriate Ne fo Mark the g in) seams all round € roping ches: ine parallel uals the reductton at the waistline (0 corte surement and should be about have a 1.5 cm (a in) #6 Lem ( feet when stile io the sid pasinark the side sean. xcept forthe centre a for the 2ip Juang, Make theoe MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS ; SIX-GORED SKIRT i erence oom (60; ‘This skirt has six panels or gores and a hem circumference of about 152 em (60 in), 1); nent may also be altered as desired. The opening or the zip needs 10 be on the lefichaunt yj, me ' : / that the contre front and centre back panels can be cut on the fold, This skirt is very flattering because of its slimming effect. You may also use this method to make an eight-gored skirt. © Follow Step 1 and Step 2 of the instructions for a 4-panelled skirt oon the previous page; using all the same measurements except for the hem circumference, which should be 152 cm (60 in). STEP 2 © Mark the hip line so that BC = OP = GQ. © Mark the side front panel 10 cm 4 in) from the centre front at the hip and 14 em (Yin) from the centre front at the hem. Join these points and extend to the waistline, © Mark the side back panel also 10 em (4 in) from the centre back at the hip and 14 em (512 in) from the centre back atthe hem, Join these points and extend to the waistline, STEP 3 © Reduce the waist on the side panels by about 6 mm (V4 in) ‘on the side front, + cm (about 1% in) on each side of the side'seam and 1.2 em (Vain) on the side back, as illustrated Ensure that the finished waist corresponds tothe required waist measurement, and alter accordingly © Grossmark the seams. Split up the panels by adding 1 ei (in) sess al round ‘except on the left side seams wh ; to accommodate a zip. eee es es © The hem may be 1 em. to 3m (isin to about 1¥4 in) as desired. © Mark the centre front and the centre back on the fold © The graintines for the side panels should be smarked in the centre ‘of each panel, sora)tr ee the previous page for the 6-gored skirt depth of the pleat and add on to the side facing double the depth of the pleat. © Add 1.cm CA in) seams to al the edges except the hem which should be 3 em (about 1% in) and the left side seam which should be 1.5 cm (% in) to allow for a zip c repeated atthe side back seam, as desired, (PLEAT WITH A SLIT) Adding a centre back vent to a skirt allows the same freedom as that ofa slit, and yet does not expose the leg in the same way, This detail is also used on jackets, Establish the length of the centre back vent. The depth of the vent should be about 3 em to 5.cm {about 14 in to 2 in) as desired. ‘Add this on to the centre back on the left back as illustrated. ‘Om the right back, add double the depth added on to the left back, to allow for the fold back. Adda L5.cm (Ph in) seam 10 both the centre backs for the zip and 1 em (i in) seams to all the other edges, except the hem which may range from 1 ei tt ee sive sate yp al ht Hives, dbname, dhewssns tnt) ap al silane tere thas a hn ca ets 8°"Scaling Patternssua. WR Duyrog DRESS SLEEVEMAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS BLOUSE FRONTane eae GUATERGEALE PATFERMGMAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS BLOUSE SLEEVEWe YOUR Gwe maT Teme neeQUARTER SCALE PATTERNS JACKET BACKMEE YOUR OWM PATTERNSMAKE FOUR ONIN PATTERNSGUA ATER CAE WATT EHS DRESS BACKhaseque skirt 91 blazer, dene breasted 82 Blouse 37 darted 14,74,79 parterns 116-18 see also shirt tops bodice ress 16-19 panelled 38.9 patterns 112, 114 with shoulder racks 32 with gathered neck 3% with yoke 14-7 buvionstands 72-3 buttons. positioning 73 carmsoles 38 coat, flared ext 8 ‘collar 72 mandarin 5 notched 4-5, 6 one-piece shert 52 Petee Pan 31 sallor 31 show! 56-7 two: pece str 5% caltarseane 53 dot 191,24, 27, aie te is iret see 90-9 Ares bodice 16-19 empire ene 0 halter neck 101 ponierne 11419, 1205. clastic 86 cenmpie ine 98-9 facings 42, 54, 72, 73,80, 107 lard coat 83 feat a7 sleeve 601 skirt 87, 92-5 frills 46-9. gathering 35, 37 sathers: athe neck 33 Fo with 46 sleeve with 60-1 yokes with 36-7 rasceing jacker 23 fatter neck 50, 101 hemming 47 shoe 45 jacket 23 bomber 43 artless 23 hacking 23 patterns 119-24 with shat cole 82 Joab 16-7 Simengs 80NEC mel i is an easy-to-follow guide appealing to novice and more experienced dress- makers alike. With clear, step-by-step OO CM CUS ae Steet Per REM MeR UO ANCA CR ELC accurate body measurements and WA Lal lea Coens Seon oe ae Mata To a} ETele lees mealies oMe (UC Ta col gcrer| patterns for a basic dress, Ten ate em Cctee latched tie mY aa] helpful Li LTR Ma OMe ets (od patterns Cede Perce MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS is an | invaluable SMe Celt Mats ig Mer te ROME cee Ca Ee Ue well-fitting patterns, vi