SANDBLASTER PLANS

The information contained in this material is for reference only. The author does not assume any responsibility in regards to the use of this manuals content. In other words you the reader are responsible for any injury or destruction of property from the use or mis-use of information contained in this manual. Please note that the use of silica based sand can cause a condition called Silicosis. I do not recommend the use of silica based abrasives due to this reason. If you are not familiar with Silicosis, I encourage you to research it.

Items required:

A lot of these items will depend on what you have available or on hand. I re-use scrap materials whenever possible, so some variation may be required. Feel free to substitute. Tank or LP gas cylinder (100 pound size shown in pictures) I.D. Hose suitable for pressure (used hydraulic hose works great ) Miscellaneous pipe & pipe fittings Qty 2 Qty 2 Ball valves Ball valve

Ceramic sandblast nozzle (Available from McMaster Carr www.mcmaster.com) Wheels (Harbor Freight) Axle for wheels 1 shaft Di-Electric union connector (used for water heaters) Water Trap (Harbor Freight)

The following steps contain information on how I assembled a pressure assisted sandblaster. Most of the items that were used for the construction were acquired from scrap materials. The sandblaster was built at a very low cost. All steel that was used is what I like to call recycled steel. In other words it comes from machinery that I have scrapped out or have bought as recycled steel from a local scrap yard. You will notice throughout the construction steps that some of the items are rusty or different colors. This is where the sandblaster comes in handy----to clean all that stuff up down to the bare metal, then it will all look like new after a good coat of paint. The sandblaster fabrication requires the use of a welder. I personally recommend using a MIG (wire welder) but an arc welder could also be used if a wire welder is unavailable. Another useful tool is a plasma cutter. I have had a plasma cutter for several years and have never regretted buying one. It makes a fast clean cut that does not get very hot so that you can handle the parts right after you get done with the cut (really helps to speed up fabrication time). A cutting torch could also be if a plasma cutter is unavailable. A cutting torch also does a good job, just creates a bit more heat which takes more time to cool down. If a torch is not available, the use of a sawzall and drill will be sufficient.

Another useful tool is a right angle grinder to clean up cut edges and areas to be welded. It took me around a day and a half to fabricate the sandblaster. A lot of this time was spent rummaging through my pipe fitting pails to find the ones that would work best for what I was trying to accomplish. As of this writing, I have run at least 2000 lbs. of sand through the blaster without any problems at all. I still have not yet painted the blaster, but intend to when I get done with the other projects that I needed the sandblaster for in the first place.

Concerning the use of an LP gas cylinder.The cylinder must be purged before cutting into it, regardless of the method used to cut it open. I purged the cylinder by filling them with water all the way until it overflows. Dump the water out and refill the tank once again and let it sit idle for a couple of hours with the water still in it.

Regarding compressor size, I recommend at least a two-cylinder compressor. My first blaster was run by a Sanborn 2 cylinder that had a 3 HP motor. Output of that unit was around 7 CFM at 60 PSI and less at higher pressures. It was pumping up a 25-gallon tank at the compressor. I wouldn't recommend anything below a 3 HP for the full pressurized version, although some people have used them and reported that it worked okay, they just had to stop once in a while to let the compressor build up air pressure. An alternative to this is to utilize an auxiliary air storage tank to increase the total capacity of air storage. This will allow you to blast at higher pressures if needed for a longer duration. If you have a compressor that you do not know the output, most 110-volt compressors produce approximately 1 to 2 CFM per horsepower. 220-volt units will produce 2 to 3 CFM per horsepower. I normally run a 3/32" orfice size on the nozzle for the full pressurized blaster version, this allows a smaller compressor to be used (this type uses the nozzle assembly that I sell on Ebay). Once the nozzle wears more CFM output is required (as seen in lower table below). The pressurized media system allows you to change from full pressure to a siphon unit very easily and quickly. I run a siphon unit in the blast cabinet, and the full pressure version for heavy rust or outside of cabinet blasting Although it is not shown in the manual, you should install a pressure relief valve somewhere either on the blaster media tank or on your compressor so that the air pressure in the tank does not exceed a safe level. I have mine set to 125 PSI

and it is located on the compressor. It is not shown in this manual because it is not actually part of the blaster. Keep in mind that the welds must be able to withstand the pressure that you will be putting in the blast media tank.

Air requirements for pressure fed siphon blaster

8 CFM with 1/8" orfice at 80 PSI 4.5 CFM with 5/64" orfice at 80 PSI 6 CFM with 1/8" orfice at 60 PSI 3 CFM with 5/64" orfice at 60 PSI

Air requirements for Full Pressure Sandblaster (C1 series nozzles)

(This is the style of nozzle that is sold with my nozzle/valve assemblies on ebay) 1-6 CFM with 3/32" orfice 7-21 CFM with 1/8" orfice 22-45 CFM with 3/16" orfice 46-80 CFM with 1/4" orfice 81-140 CFM with 5/16" orfice 141-200 CFM with 3/8" orfice As you can see, air requirements can be very low, allowing use of virtually any 2cylinder compressor or even smaller air compressors.

STEP 1
The first step is to locate a tank of some sort that will be suitable to hold a minimum of 150 psi. I chose to use an old 100-pound LP gas cylinder. These are the old silver ones that are about 15 in diameter and about 40 tall. Make sure the cylinder is empty and then remove the valve from the top of the cylinder. Be sure not to make any sparks when removing the valve, as it may cause any gas to ignite.

Figure 1 A good candidate to make a sandblaster

Step 2
PURGING & CUTTING THE CYLINDER Cutting the cylinder open. A strong word of caution here.Never just cut into an LP gas cylinder with a torch. The cylinder must be purged completely with water to remove any and all left over gas from the inside of the cylinder. I filled it completely with water 2 times and then let it sit idle for a couple hours. Regardless of whether a torch or a sawzall is used to cut the tank open, it must purged with water before cutting open. These cylinders have a rim welded to the bottom of the tank to keep them upright. This rim is normally flush with the end of the cylinder and must be removed as well. Before removing the rim, I used the rim to measure about 6 down to mark my cut all the way around the tank. The following picture shows the tank after the rim has been removed and the bottom of the tank has been cut off.

Figure 2

Rim and bottom 6 cut off cylinder

Figure 3

Another view of bottom cut from cylinder and the top end

Step 3

- Sandblaster outlet assembly.

This assembly will attach to where the original gas valve has been removed. In other words, what used to be the top of the tank will become the bottom of the sandblaster. It is constructed of a cross, 2 close nipples 1-1/2 long and a brass ball valve. I did not have a cross available in my assortment of fittings, so I just made one from a T fitting and a coupler. I burned a hole on the side of the T fitting and welded in the coupler. I cu t the coupler in half so that it was not so long and I will use the other half on the sandblaster in a later step.

Figure 4 Homemade cross with attached close nipples and ball valve

Step 4
After assembling the outlet assembly, it is time to thread it into the cylinder as shown in Figure 5. It is turned in tight so that there will not be any leaks.

Figure 5 Outlet assembly threaded into original gas port

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Step 5 - Attaching the legs.

These are simply 1-3/4 X 1-3/4 X 3/16 angle iron 20 in length. Position one leg on the tank so that the end is about 3 below the sandblaster outlet assembly. The first leg is tacked in place so that it will not move. Next an angle iron is clamped to the tack welded leg at a 90-degree angle. This clamped angle serves as a brace to position the other leg. This keeps the angle irons flat with each other so that the axle for the tires can be attached. (See Figure 6). The legs are set so the bottom of the blaster tank is 8 to the end of the legs. This gives a little more room than what will be required for the blaster outlet assembly.

Figure 6 Both legs tacked and ready for final welding. Note the angle used as a brace to keep the surfaces flat with each other

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Figure 7 Rear sandblaster legs after final welding

Figure 8 Another view of the legs after welding

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Step 6 - Attaching the front leg to the cylinder.

The front leg is positioned on the front of the cylinder so that it is the same height as the rear legs. This allows the sandblaster to be free-standing or stationary if desired. I welded another short 3 piece of angle to the bottom of the front leg as well so that when the blaster is out on the lawn, the front leg does not sink into the ground.

Figure 9 Front leg welded in place. Wheels not yet attached, just getting an idea of how wide I want them placed.

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Step 7 - Air pressurizing port

A port hole is cut for the air to pressurize the tank. I placed mine on the right-hand side of the tank. It is located about 3 below what is currently the top of the sandblaster. This is where I used the remaining half of the coupler that I used earlier to make the outlet assembly cross. I cut a hole big enough for the coupler to pass through. I welded on the inside of the cylinder first and then welded all the way around the coupler on the outside of the cylinder. This should ensure that it will not leak any air pressure.

Figure 10 Air pressure port welded in place

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Figure 11 Another view of the air pressure port after welding

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Step 8 - Air manifold system

I used pipe because it is more durable than hose and will last a very long time. Hose (a used hydraulic hose is a good choice) could be used and it is also easier to install. The manifold system is comprised of pipe and fittings that I had on hand. This is where I also installed the water trap. I used one from Harbor Freight that I had laying around (the mounting flange had broken off years ago). You could use a different style of trap, but these are the cheapest traps I have seen. Dont neglect to use the pipe unions, these really help with the installation of the manifold, and will also be of help if the manifold needs to be removed for some unknown reason. Please note that the outlet assembly will need to be turned slightly to clear the front leg. See the drawing below for details on what fitting I used for the manifold. Keep in mind this is what I had on hand and substitions can be made to reduce part count. I recommend the use of the regulator in the manifold, as this will allow you to use the pressurized media tank for the pressure fed siphon blaster version. If you feel that you may never use that option, you can leave it off. The value of installing it right away is that you can always adjust the regulator to accommodate for full pressure if you want. In a later figure, you will notice that I have two regulators attached to the media tank. This is for the pressure fed siphon unit version. You can set up your manifold like that if you want, but I just use a regulator at the outlet of the compressor in addition to the one on the media tank. I strongly advise the use of two regulators for the sandblaster. I will explain this later in the manual in the Blaster Operation portion.

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Figure 12 Lower portion of manifold system

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Figure 13 Another view of the manifold system, water trap & regulator See following figures for alternative manifold options

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Figure 14 Manifold system arrangement

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Figure 14a Manifold system arrangement with regulator

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Step 9 - Constructing the sand tub and filler port.

The portion of the cylinder that was cut off from Step 2 will become the sand tub. A hole is cut in the tub so that a piece of 5 diameter 3/16 wall pipe about 2 long can be inserted and welded in place as shown in figure 15. I used a 5 diameter pipe so that if I ever needed to reach my hand into the sandblaster, the hole would be large enough to do so. A smaller diameter pipe could be used if a large one is not available. The pipe is welded in the tub on both sides all the way around. It is best to do a continuous weld when welding this if possible.

Figure 15 Bottom side of tub with sand filler port welded in place

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Figure 16 Another view of the tub with sand filler port welded in place

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Step 10 - Making a plug for the sand fill port

To make a plug for the sand filler port, I used an old disk blade that I had laying in the scrap pile. I cut the blade so that is about 2 in diameter larger than the pipe used for the sand filler port that was welded in place in Step 8. A piece of plate could also be used if a disk blade is not available. I would be sure to use at least a thick plate so that it does not warp when welding and so that you can get a good weld when welding on the stem in a later step. The disk blade already had a square hole in the center, which I recut to make large enough for the 1 diameter stem to pass through. I also cut out a smaller circle of 3/16 plate about 3 diameter that will be used in a later step.

Figure 17 Plug (RH side) for sand filler port. Smaller 3 circle shown as well.

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Step 11 - Making the stem for the sand port plug

The stem is made from a piece of 1 outside diameter pipe 3 in length. The inside diameter is large enough for a piece of 5/8 all-thread to pass through. I made sure one end of the pipe is good and square as I will be welding a nut to the end and if it is not square, one may have trouble once the all thread is installed. A good way to ensure that you dont have any issues later is to thread a nut on one end and place the long end through the pipe. Tack the nut on the end of the pipe in about 3 places around the nut and check to make sure the all-thread turns freely. Next remove the all-thread and weld the nut onto the pipe all the way around. Figure 18 shows the stem and all-thread that I used. I made two of these stems, as one will be used in a later step.

Figure 18 Stem with welded nut and all-thread

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Step 12 - Welding the stem to the plug

Now the stem will be welded to the sand filler port plug. If using a disk blade, the stem gets welded so that the stem is on the humped side of the blade. Weld the stem in place on both sides of the blade or flat circle.

Figure 19 Top view of sand port plug with stem welded in place

Figure 20 Bottom view of sand port plug with stem welded in place

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Step 13 - Capping off the stem

The hole in the bottom of the stem will need to be capped off using the smaller circle that I cut out in Step 9 (Figure 17). This circle is placed on the underside of the plug and is welded all the way around to keep the air from escaping through the stem

Figure 21 Bottom view of sand port plug with cap welded in place

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Step 14 - Making the tightener for the sand port plug

To make a tightened, I used a piece of X 2 flat, bent as shown in Figure22. It is made so the insides of the legs are the same distance apart as the diameter of pipe used for the sand port and 3 in height. An 11/16 hole is drilled in the center of the strap after it is formed. I also cut a couple of gussets for the corners (Figure 24). The tightener will be welded in place over the sand port, being sure to center the hole in the tightener with the center of the sand port.

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Figure 22 Plug tightener formed with gussets

Figure 23 Top of plug tightener

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Figure 24 Plug tightener with gussets welded in place

Figure 25 Plug tightener welded in place

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Step 15 - Gasket for the sand port plug

To make a gasket for the sand filler plug, I used a chunk of old tire tube. I placed the plug on the tube and traced around the plug and cut the profile out with a scissors. Then cut a hole in the center of the gasket for the stem to pass through and place on the plug assembly.

Figure 26 Tracing profile of plug onto rubber

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Figure 27 Gasket installed onto plug

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Step 16 - T-Handle for tightener

Now is the time to use the extra stem welded in Step 10. Cut another 10 long piece of pipe that was used for the stem. This piece will be welded to the non-nut end of the stem to create a T-handle for the plug tightener (Figure 28). Next thread the 5/8 all thread into the plug stem. Place the plug stem up through sand port (being sure to have the gasket placed on the plug) and the all-thread through the tightener hole. Next thread an extra 5/8 hex nut onto the all thread. The nut will be locked against the T-handle, which is installed next. Adjust T-handle so that when you turn the T-handle everything is tight and the gasket seals good. Lock the hex nut against the T-handle.

Figure 28 T-handle arrangement

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Figure 29 Plug, gasket and T-handle installed

Figure 30 Bottom view of the sand tub assembly

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Step 17 - Welding the sand tub in place

The inside of the cylinder should be clean and dry before placing the sand tub in place. Place the sand tub in place as shown (Figure 31). I placed mine so that the tightener in the tub was oriented in-line with the front leg of the blaster. Tap it down with a hammer a bit to get a good tight fit. As seen in the picture, it should fit pretty tight. Measure fro m the top of the sand tub to the top of the cylinder and make sure that it is the same distance all the way around. Next be sure the sand plug is loose and tack the tub well so that it does not move. Next weld the tub in place all the way around. Try to get a good weld with no pinholes, as these pinholes will need to be fixed if they leak air.

Figure 31 Sand tub ready for welding

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Figure 32 Sand tub welded in place

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Step 18 - Wheels and axles (optional)

The blaster is well on its way to completion. We will now install the axle and the wheels. I got the wheels from www.harborfreight.com. They are quite inexpensive and work quite well for many projects. The inside diameter of the bearings is 5/8. If you have some other wheels lying around, you could use them as well. As for the axle, I have a metal lathe in the shop and decided to turn a 1 diameter shaft down to 5/8 on the ends. The wheels are spaced 17 from each other measured on the inside. This allowed for pretty good stability of the blaster. Before welding the axle to the legs, I placed a piece of flat under each leg to space it off the floor a bit. Then I made sure the tires were filled with recommended air pressure. Simply roll the axle assembly against the legs, center from side to side, clamp and weld in place on both sides (top & bottom) of the axle.

Figure 33 Axle welded in place

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Step 19 - The hose

For the hose, I used a inside diameter hydraulic hose. I didnt have one lying around, so I purchased a new one. This part was the most expensive part of the whole blaster. I bought a 16-foot long hose so that I had plenty of hose. If you have some short hoses lying around, you could couple them together as well to get the length that you want. You will need a reducer at the blaster outlet to attach the hose (Figure 35). I also use a hydraulic swivel to allow quick disconnecting of the blast hose so that I can switch over to the siphon unit very quickly without having to keep turning the hose to remove it from the threads.

Figure 35 Hose attachment

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Figure 36 Another view of the hose and nozzle assembly

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Step 21 - Nozzle holder / Blast End

There are several options that you can do in regards to the blaster nozzle and holder. After looking at the different nozzles that are available, I decided to go with a large ceramic nozzle. These are available from McMaster Carr or I have them available as well. Their website is www.mcmaster.com. The nozzle is the same as what is used on the deadman style of holders. The deadman valve assembly is quite expensive and the rubber blocks on the end do not last a very long time. There are other nozzles and holders available but they too add a fair amount of cost to the system. The assembly that I have come up with is a cheaper alternative. The holder is comprised of a brass ball valve. The cheapest one that you can find is the best, as this is the part that will wear out in time. Mine cost about $5 which is cheaper than a set of the replacement rubber blocks for the deadman valve and will last much longer. One of these ball valves will last for at least 5000 sand-pounds worth of blasting. Next is a modified Di-electric connector (about $4). These can be found at most home improvement centers in the plumbing department. I recommend the outlet with the pipe threads on the other end. They come with the base part as well as a large nut along with a brass sleeve and a plastic bushing. The brass and plastic parts will not be used for this assembly. The very first one that I made, I just filed out the diameter of the large nut so that when the nozzle was inserted through the hole in the nut, the nut made sufficient engagement with the threads on the base. This worked pretty well until I bought another supply of ceramic nozzles which had a slightly smaller diameter on the large end. In this case, the nozzle now passed all the way through the hole in the nut. I recommend using a metal lathe or taking it to someone that has one and having them cut a .375 deep depression in the nozzle face and modify the nut inside diameter to what is shown in Figures 37 & 38. I have found this to be the best method and have had no issues with it when changing nozzles. The nozzle is not supposed to pass through the nut, but rather the taper is to be engaged in the hole toward the larger end of the nozzle. Attach the nozzle holder assembly as shown in Figure 36 using a reducer to go from the threads on the hose to the threads of the ball valve. I have found this setup to work the best in regards to wear on the ball valve. A ball valve will wear more quickly due to the hole through the ball valve being smaller than the valve. Be sure to assemble the coupler on the correct side of the ball valve so that the lever does not get in the way in case you need to remove the nozzle.

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Figure 34 Blast nozzle assembly

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Figure 37

Di-Electric connector modifications

Figure 38 Di-Electric connector nut modifications

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Step 22 - Finished Sandblaster

Now the sandblaster is complete and ready for use. Be sure to use dry sand or media in your sandblaster. This is very important so that the blaster does not clog. Also make sure that your media is sifted to remove large chunks of debris that may be present if you reuse the media. If I am in a bind, I usually go to the local building supply store and buy sandblast sand, but I normally go to the local creek bottom and load up some sand from there. I spread it out on a couple sheets of plywood on a nice sunny day to make sure it dries out completely. Then I sift it through a sifter made from an old window screen. The window screen works well for a nozzle size of 3/32 which is what I normally use. I start with the 3/32 nozzle and over time it enlarges to about 3/16 which is when I normally replace it for sand. If you use another type of media, you may still be able to use the worn nozzle as it depends on particle size.

Blaster operation
I have a regulator installed on my compressor. I set this regulator to within 10 PSI of what the kick-in pressure is for the compressor, otherwise you will notice that a large increase in pressure at the blaster will greatly affect your blaster valve settings. This is something that a lot of people do not realize and they either dont use the regulator coming off the compressor, or they set it at the max presure the compressor will put out. The big problem that they then encounter is the surging as the pressure varies, and they then begin to get frustrated as they change the feed settings on the blaster to accommodate for the pressure changes. They then find that as the pressure increases again, they encounter the same probem and once again, they are frustrated. Be sure to use a regulator coming off the compressor and adjust it to within 10 PSI of If you have never used a sandblaster before, then here are a few pointers First off, make sure the ball valve at the blaster outlet (at the bottom of the blaster) is in the off position before filling with media. Fill the blaster with media and turn the T-handle to close the sand portshake the T-handle from side to side to remove any media that may have collected on the gasket. I have a ball valve installed before the water trap; this shuts off all air to the entire system. Hook up the air supply hose to the blaster and then turn on the ball valve to allow air into the blaster and hose. Adjust the regulator on the manifold so that not full pressure enters the media tank. This regulates pressure going into the tank pressure port (not in the whole manifold). With this configuration, you can set the regulator to control the pressure going into the tank to be less than what the pressure in the manifold is. Air from the manifold being at a higher pressure will try to go to where there is lower pressure, which is up through the blaster outlet and into the tank. The advantage is that the outlet would always have air
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flowing through it keeping the port open in case that one has put damp sand into the blaster. Damp sand tends to cake up and restrict sand flow. The tank pressure needs to be adjusted depending on the media type that you are using. If you get the pressure set for a media type, you may want to write it down so that you can set the pressure at that setting the next time you use it. I normally run this regulator about 5 PSI below the pressure from the compressor and adjust it from there. Too low of pressure in the media tank will result in a surging effect of sand exiting the nozzle. This due to the air in the manifold rushing into the media tank to equalize the pressure differential, instead of the pressure in the tank pushing media into the manifold. Next, open the nozzle valve to allow air through the hose. This should either be fully open, or fully closed (in a quick movement)...never partially open/close, as that will accelerate wear of the ball valve. After opening the nozzle valve and air is rushing out, open the ball valve at the blaster outlet (bottom of media tank) to allow sand into the hose (pressurized air stream). Dont open it all the way, as too much sand will also cause the system to surge. Usually I open it about half way or less. About halfway should do the trick (no set in stone rule...whatever works, that is the setting to stick w/ or readjust near). Now sand should be coming out the nozzleit may take a little time for the hose to fill. If no sand comes out, give the outlet a slight tap to get the sand moving. Adjust the ball valve until you get a good steady stream of air and sand coming out. To get a good blast to remove heavy rust, you want a lot of air pressure at the nozzle and the right amount of sand. You should just barely be able to see the sand coming out of the nozzle (similar in appearance to steam coming out of a teakettle). The best setting is right before the sand starts to surge coming out of the nozzle. If you open the sand outlet valve until it starts to surge and then back off a little, you will attain the best blast. If you are just removing paint or light rust, then you can adjust the air pressure down a little. It will take a little time to get used to adjusting the pressure and valves, but once you find that sweet spot you can set it the same every time you use the blaster and attain great results. From here it is pretty simple, just point at what you want cleaned and blast awayremember to use proper protective gear as the sand can do some serious damage to exposed flesh! The use of a respirator is also recommended.

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Pressure Fed Siphon sandblaster

My very first sand blaster was a simple siphon feed unit. It worked okay, but always had that surging effect as it tried to PULL sand through the hose. To cure that, I made a pressure tank out of an old milking vacuum tank. With this design, sand is PUSHED up to the blast nozzle. That tank had a removable lid, which had a gasket and a clamp to hold the lid and gasket on. I have since robbed parts off my original system, as it has been 20 years since I have used it and moved to the large unit described above. With this system, I had 2 regulators to adjust the pressure as seen in the accompyaning diagram below (one of these regulators could be attached to the compressor like mine is). The first regulator is set at 50-60 PSI and the second regulator is set to 5-10 PSI. In between the regulators is a t-fitting and a hose that runs to the siphon feed sandblast head at what used to be the feed tube. The original feed tube has been replaced with a hose nipple (brass) which allowed the sand to go through better. After the second regulator, there is another T-fitting. From this fitting, there is a hose that runs down to the bottom of the blast tank and connects to the cross fitting. This allows 5-10 PSI air to flow through the cross and PUSH sand through the hose and up to the siphon sandblast head where it can be blasted out the nozzle with the 50-60 PSI air supply. This type of system has several advantages and would work great for a sandblast cabinet. This system never really can clog due to large debris in the media, unless the media is large enough to plug any of the fittings. With this system, the sand moves through sand feed line all the time, so when you are not blasting, and set the gun down, sand continues to feed out the nozzle. Not a big problem inside of a blast cabinet, but will cause the loss of sand if you are blasting outside of a cabinet. You can cure this by adding an additional valve in the sand feed line near the blast gun. You would need to shut it off whenever you are not blasting. You can use pretty much the same steps described earlier to build a pressure feed unit for your siphon blaster, just set it up like the diagram below and blast away. You dont have to use the first regulator (set to 50-60 PSI) if you dont want, but it will allow more control of blasting patterns. If you have a blast cabinet, that has a siphon unit, just build the pressure tank, hook it up to the siphon unit and give it a try.it does work great!

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Original sandblaster remnants, this unit is about 22 years old.a lot of parts have been robbed from it, but the basics are still there. Put a few regulators back on it, some air in the tires and it would be ready to blast again.

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This is the siphon blasting unit from my original pressure fed blaster

A closer view
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Original fitting replaced with hose nipple. The hose is a clear hose although you cant tell anymore. This was so that I could see the sand moving through the hose. It originally came with a rubber hose, but wasnt but a year or two and that basically cracked to pieces. This is where you can use that old air hose that got a hole in it if you would like.

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Swivel on the cross at the bottom of media tank. This allows for easy switching between the siphon feed system and the full pressure blast system.

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