Yarn structure Yarn Structure: yarn twist Twist is the single most important factor to determine the properties

of a yarn. Without twist, fibres have no combined strength. During twisting fibres are brought closer together, and as they spiral around each other friction between the fibres is increased, which causes them to stop slipping past each other. Thus a yarn has been produced, with a resulting increase in strength. A small amount of twist (low spun) produces a yarn that is soft, weak, rough and has good insulation properties. A greater amount of twist (high spun) produces a yarn that is hard, strong, and smooth and has poor insulating properties. The strength in of a yarn increases relative to the amount of twist inserted, however overtwisting will weaken a yarn, due to the excess strain on the fibres. A single twisted yarn has a tendency to untwist (this is called a torque). This torque can be eliminated by twisting together two or more single yarns (this is called plying). When spinning, twist can be introduced into the yarn in either a clockwise ( S-twist) or anticlockwise (Z-twist) direction. Twist levels are measured by the number of turns per centimetre. Activities: Answer the following questions based on the information above. Q1. Why is twist such an important property of yarns? ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ Q2. What are the properties of low spun yarns? ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ Q3. What are the properties of high spun yarns? ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ Q4. What can cause yarns to weaken? ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ Q5. How are twist levels measured? ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ Q6. Label the sketches above as being S-twist or Z-twist and indicate whether the spiral is clockwise or anti-clockwise. a) ______________________________________________________________ b) ______________________________________________________________

Yarn structure Yarn structure: simple & novelty yarns Simple yarns Simple yarns are classified as single, ply and cord. Single yarns are not very strong, will separate into individual fibres if untwisted and have unbalanced torque (a tendency to untwist). Yarn in this form is woven or knitted. A ply yarn is made up of two or more single yarns twisted together. Plying makes a yarn more even, providing strength, allows the yarn to be torque-free and is usual in thick yarns. Ply yarns are used in sewing threads, knitting yarns, carpet yarns and so on. A cord yarn is made up of two or more ply yarns twisted together. They are very strong, and are used as ropes.

Questions: Q1. List the three classifications of simple yarns? ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ Q2. What is the strongest yarn? ________________________________________________________________ Q3. What is the weakest yarn? ________________________________________________________________ Novelty yarns

Yarn structure Novelty yarns are made mainly for their appearance, and they differ from simple yarns in that they have some irregularities in the yarn. They are often used for knitting wools. They vary with fashion, they snag easily, and the fabric made from them is weaker. Slub yarns Slubs occur naturally in the spinning of fibres such as linen and raw silk, however, the same effect is now deliberately produced in artificial novelty fibres. The slubs are randomly spaced sections in the yarn of thick, low twist.

Boucl yarn Boucl yarn is created by twisting a loopy-effect yarn loosely around a fine core yarn, then holding it in place with a binding yarn. When used in fabric these yarns add greater texture and interest.

Core spun yarn Core spun yarns are made from two different fibres an inner and an outer fibre. Often the inner fibre needs to be completely covered before the yarn is useful. The first fibre is spun into a yarn the core yarn and around it the second fibre is spun. Two examples of core spun yarns are polyester/cotton sewing thread, and the nylon/lycra yarn from which swimsuit fabric is made.