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Chocolate Ingredients
Only two raw materials go into making plain (dark) chocolate: cocoa beans (including additional cocoa butter from the beans) and sugar. In general, as cacao content goes up, sugar goes down, and usually the quality of the chocolate goes up as well, since that is what you should be tasting. The optimum range of cacao content is 55-75%. Anything lower will be too sweet to taste the chocolate; anything higher will be too bitter, regardless of the quality of the cacao. The key to good chocolate is not only good beans, but using the right amount of sugar for a particular bean. And since sugar is much cheaper than cacao, the proportions also will affect price. The two main varieties of beans are the fairly rare and less hardy criollo, with its more sought-after flavor profile, and the more vigorous, full-bodied forastero. The forastero is often roasted longer and hotter, resulting in a burnt flavor, which helps mask its flavor flaws. When blended together, as is common, the two beans complement each other. Most top quality chocolates use only a small amount of forastero to minimize the burnt flavor and maximize body and depth of flavor. Criollo gives acidity and complexity, like a good Pinot Noir. Vanilla is commonly used in chocolate, although the majority of producers use artificial vanilla (ethyl vanillin, extracted from a variety of conifer tree), which lacks the complexity of flavor in real vanilla. Most eating chocolate (vs. unsweetened baking chocolate) also contains an emulsifier or stabilizer, usually soy lecithin. It is added during the conching stage to prevent separation of the cocoa butter and cocoa solids, and to give smoother texture and appearance (versus a thick, grainy texture).
How Chocolate is Made (continued) chocolate liquor (no connection to alcohol). The liquor can be refined to a smoother texture and made directly into bitter/unsweetened chocolate for baking. To make cocoa powder and cocoa butter, the liquor will enter a hydraulic press to separate most of the fat (cocoa butter) from the solids (cocoa powder). For bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, the chocolate liquor is mixed with sugar, additional cocoa butter, vanilla and soy lecithin. Milk chocolate will have dried milk and more sugar added. Both types are put into a conche, which further refines, aerates and kneads the mass until smooth and the flavors are rounded. Tempering After conching, the liquid chocolate is typically tempered for several hours. This involves repeated heating and cooling, which realigns and stabilizes the cocoa butter crystals. It makes the chocolate glossy, easier to mold and gives it a sharp snap when broken. Molding and Packaging The final steps are molding the chocolate, letting it cool and harden, and then packing and shipping it. Each step requires proper control of timing, temperature and humidity.
Tasting, Evaluating and Storing Chocolate (continued) Tasting Chocolate melts around 93-100 F (depending on the amount of cocoa butter and other ingredients), which is in the range of human body temperature. This is why it is best to let it melt in your mouth when tasting... to get the full mouth feel. Take a piece (size of a quarter) that will cover enough of your tongue for evaluation. The texture shouldnt be greasy, waxy or gritty. Check for flavor defects, such as overly smoked or burnt flavors or too much sugar. There should be a balance of bitter, sweet and acid, and the vanilla should be subtle and natural tasting. As with good wine, there should be a long, pleasant finish. In between samples, rinse with warm tea or room-temperature water. Snap There should be a snap when chocolate bars are broken, and the break should be clean with no shattering. Both properties are due to cocoa butters crystalline structure. If a chocolate does not begin to melt in your hand after a few seconds, it probably has added vegetable fats. Bloom Bloom is a defect usually caused by storage in extremes of temperature. The cocoa butter crystals fall out of alignment and rise to the surface of the bar, which gives a grey-white speckled appearance but doesnt always affect taste. Sugar bloom is caused by moisture (e.g., in a refrigerator) and can be more serious. The chocolate can become grey and gritty when sugar crystals move to the moist surface of the chocolate and recrystallize. Storing The best conditions for storing chocolate are dark, dry and cool: 54-64 F (12-18 C), humidity under 50% (so the refrigerator is out), and well wrapped. Dark chocolate keeps longer (one and a half years or more in ideal conditions) than white or milk chocolate. Good quality truffles, bonbons and other filled chocolates will keep only a week or two at room temperature, but for best flavor and freshness they should be enjoyed within a few days. More highly processed filled chocolates can keep longer, even a couple months, because dairy ingredients are often treated for longer shelf life.
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