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DESIGN DEPARTMENT Fashion sketching or fashion flats can be defined as base templates one can use to create unique

apparel designs. We have industry standard flat sketches that demonstrate a professional and accurate illustration of garments and important design details like topstitching, hardware, trims and fabric treatments. What is Sketching or Designing? In the garment manufacturing the first step is designing the sketch for the dresses that have to be prepared. For this purpose the designer first draw several rough sketches in the sketch book. The designer does not go for details at this moment but he rather let his creativity flow on the paper and he draws many sketches. Later these sketches are analyzed by a panel of designers. They finally select few out of them. These few sketches are rendered in detail separately or in the form of a single collection. The designer also draws working drawings along with the sketch. Working drawings are flat drawing of the sketch and it help pattern maker in understanding the patterns involved in the construction. Tips or advice on sketching

Instead of worrying about clean lines, and whatnot focus on the key deta Figure out rib details, etc in a more magnified/detailed sketch later.

You want to define your figure/silhouette. Figure out how wide apart the shoulders/arms are. Do this qu early, just sketch over it. Here define the arm opening. Is it a standard set-in sleeve, or is it a raglan? Or is it even something else? Define the length of the arms and body here. This is done by some horizontal lines. Easy. Make a signat

stylistically/aesthetically and use it as a template. Outline it with sharpie and trace this for future sketche this apparel block. Once part 3 is done, here is where you fill in the details. This is where the seam lines and stitches go. He buttons, draw cords, etc.. Dont erase anything here. Go with your gut and sketch it. If you mess up, do s

reason is, you dont want to get stuck erasing, and dwelling on your seam lines too much. Dont over thi mess up, move to an empty space and re-draw. Why? If you erase something you dont like, that idea is project or idea that may actually make sense for that design you erased? Now its gone forever. Never er

Simply exit out lightly with a pencil. Its nice to see your thought/concept evolve anyway. You can do step 4 in a micron pen, and not use pencil. Preferably do all the sketches with only micron p Finish up the sketches with a standard sharpie outline. This allows you to visually see the silhouette and the sketch really jump off the paper. You can experiment with different line weights and pens. You may pronounced parts or drop shadow the garment. Add your own flavor.

Flat schematics and fashion illustrations

Take a look at an ordinary pattern envelope, and you'll see two different, but equally important types of sketche drawings show the flat outline of the garment, with style lines and construction details. In contrast, the more dyn

depict the garment or ensemble on a body (typically an elongated, slender one), and give the illusion of three-di symmetry, draw half, fold, and trace. Place tracing paper over your croquis and mark the center front line. Draw tracing paper along the center front line, and trace your markings onto the right side; unfold and add asymmetric Curve the back edge of the collar stand and the neckline seam, where the stand meets the facing or lining. Draw seamlines as solid lines and topstitching as fine, dotted lines. Indicate a zipper with a dotted line of topstitching. For an invisible zipper, draw only a zipper pull. Suggest fullness or gathers within a garment or along the hem by using curved, uneven lines.

For conventional buttons and plackets, use the center front line as a guide; a placket overlaps the center front sli Designate the inside of a garment or wrong side of a fabric by shading the area lightly. Recess the inside of a pleat or fold at the hem by drawing it shorter than the main body of the garment. Include at least a portion of the back view with your sketch Product Development;

Garment designers begin to materialize their ideas using hand sketches, off-the-rack garments, technical drawin computer-aided design (CAD)

Product Design

Many apparel companies hire both merchandisers and designers as part Merchandisers often oversee and guide the design team to determine what, when, and how much apparel to pro

boards to present their ideas to the development and management teams. These concept boards are typically co sketches, and magazines photos that capture the theme or mood of the design ideas. Previous seasons sales fig overall outlook of upcoming seasons will also be discussed in these planning sessions.

Designers begin to materialize their ideas using hand sketches, off-the-rack garments, technical drawings, thre or computer-aided design (CAD). CAD is becoming increasingly popular, partially due to the ease with which and partially attributable to the active marketing efforts of apparel computer system manufacturers such as Ge Inc., Snap Fashun and Tukatech, Inc.

After the design team reviews the line, designers transform those final designs destined for actual production in offshore, the final designs are translated into garment specification sheets. A garment specification sheet consi complete a pattern and prototype of the design. Increasingly, garment specification software programs facilitat

Developments in Product Design

CAD and CAM are two technologies that have made prominent changes in the way garment manufacturing wa

manufacturing companies have developed CAD/CAM system to do the process of garment manufacturing. CA design and CAM for computer-aided machine. CAD/CAM is computer software that controls the production o garments by using any suitable software like Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw etc and in CAM the process of development.

The designer creates 2-D or 3-D model of design in CAD and CAM as software numerically controls the mach

There are several advantages of CAD/CAM over manual method of designing and production of garments:

The expense and time is reduced in a considerable manner when compared to the laborious manual wor Designing can be done from anywhere as the designers are able to control the process from remote loca The data can be easily stored, transmitted, and transported through computer files.

Digital swatches can be saved on floppy disks, zip disks, CD-ROM or hard drive thus saving space. Mo easy retrieval. The designs can be easily customized and personalized as corrections and editing can be done at any tim

The designers don't need to produce swatches all the time as they can now see how a particular fabric o computer screen itself.

Pattern Making

The appearance and fit of a garment is highly dependent on each process. Patternmaking is one of the earliest st

that has evolved over the centuries into a skilled technical process. Today, patternmaking tools have been carefu

consuming tasks, allowing apparel companies to cater to the fast paced world of fashion. Nowadays sophisticate History of Pattern Making

Prior to the Industrial Revolution the art of patternmaking was highly revered. Tail

personal measurements to customize patterns. Clothing made by tailors was elaborate and relegated only to the Revolution, standardized patterns were essential to the success of ready-to-wear clothing. Initial attempts to cre fitting garments with little detail. Men's suits were boxy, plain, ill-fitting sacks. After lengthy experimentation

triumphant transformation from customization to standardization.

Patterns can be formed by either a 2D or 3D process. Often a combination of methods is used to create the patt methods are flat, drafting and reverse engineering. In the flat method, a pattern is generated from an existing fo sloper is a pattern that has no seam allowances or style lines. From a sloper a myriad of garment styles can be g by adding design details such as a collar, pocket and pleats. The flat patternmaking method is widely used in th accurate.

In the drafting method, patterns are made directly from measurements taken from a preexisting garment, an ind measurements, the pattern is drawn directly onto paper.

Reverse engineering is sometimes referred to as garment deconstruction or a knock-off. In the reverse engineer garment. The garment is taken apart, analyzed and the patterns pieces are made.

In the 3D patternmaking process, the pattern pieces are generated from a 3D form. Draping is one of the oldest traditional draping process, a garment is produced by molding, cutting and pinning fabric to a mannequin or in the drape are carefully marked and removed. Fabric pieces with the construction and style details are generated paper and traced. The pattern is finalized by adding directional markings such as grain lines, notches, buttonho facings. Draping is especially helpful when developing intricate garment styles or using unusual fabric.< p/>

Computers have been used by apparel companies since the early 1980's. Pattern Design Systems (PDS) have b assisting in much of the repetitive tasks associated with patternmaking. PDS systems are capable of storing an retrieved, tweaked and re-filed. Using a mouse or stylus, patternmakers are able to swiftly add style details and speed, accuracy and ease of data transmission being some of the most obvious. In today's competitive environm growing demands of the apparel manufacturer.

The ability to mass produce customized patterns according to an individual's unique body shape could offer tre apparel manufacturer. The textile industry continues to research this exciting field with a long term goal of brin customer.

The apparel industry is notoriously fast-paced and competitive. Innovative software companies continue to ma companies to better serve their customers. Current research focuses on generating patterns that produce better f fine tune style. With ongoing technological advances and diligent research, patternmaking software companies their customers.

Pattern Making Process

Pattern grading is the scaling of a pattern to a different size by incrementing important points of a pattern to sm

Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is transformed into a sample pattern. "Patternmaking pieces needed to make a complete garment. For many smaller manufacturers, pattern making is still done on pa remains prohibitive.

The patternmaker may use one of the following techniques to develop a sample pattern. S/he may "manipulate modify or alter existing pattern pieces. S/he may translate a design that has been "draped" and pinned on a dres garment sections into paper pattern pieces. Alternatively, s/he may pin pieces of muslin to a garment being cop darts, making a "muslin rub." The chalk markings are then used to create a flat paper pattern.

From this initial pattern, a sample garment is developed. The sample process allows a designer to correct any p

dimensional sketch into a two-dimensional garment; it ensures that the designer's fabric yardage specifications spot potential production problems inherent in a design. Once the sample is made, the manufacturer makes a sm market. If they sell well, the garment goes into larger volume production.

Although many firms still make patterns by hand, larger manufacturers make production patterns on a compute developed that allow patternmakers to create patterns manually by using a life-sized, sensitized table and a styl indicates points with the stylus, the pattern pieces are automatically entered into the CAD system where they c

marking. Although pattern making is becoming increasingly computerized, patternmakers still must learn the m develops an advanced understanding of garment construction, knowledge that cannot yet be replaced by a com

Types of Pattern Making in garment manufacturing Block Pattern

Block pattern is a basic pattern without any style features and incorporates the measure which garments, developed from this pattern, are intended. Block pattern can be developed by either of the foll The flat method

The components of the pattern, usually the body and sleeve, are constructed by a draft(technical drawing) whic of the particular system used by the pattern maker. It can be produced by a computer.

Modelling

It entails the fitting of the block garment usually in toile, on a workroom stand of the appropriate size, when the the stand and each component is copied on to pattern paper and the necessary making up allowances added. Garment Pattern

The styled patterns used for cutting the original sample garments can be developed by a

modeling or a combination of both. When using the flat method, the pattern maker introduces style lines of the g

the necessary manipulation and then adds the requisite sewing and other allowances to each component. Notche as guides for alignment and matching during sewing and make-up. Computerized pattern making

At most large manufacturers, patterns are made on a computer with computer aided design (CAD) systems, th patterns on the computer screen with a hand-held control device. Geometry drives can make an infinite numbe the pattern including creating new design lines or adding pleats, fullness, and seam allowances. To allow patte

computer, another system has been developed allowing the pattern maker to work life size on a sensitized table

is attached to the table and the computer. The stylish picks up the lines drawn on the table and shows them on the screen. Changes can also be made dir immediately available for other operations such as grading and marker making. The essential features of this te and pattern generation systems. Pattern design system the pattern maker inputs to the system all the block patterns in current use and with the patterns from them. Pattern generation system when the pattern components for the top cloth have been develo The pattern generation programmer automatically generates the pattern for auxiliary components such as lining

Pattern Grading

Pattern Grading is the process where by patterns of different sizes are produced from the original master pattern

automatically by a computerized system. Patterns are graded according to size charts which present the sizes an

for which the garments are intended. In order to produce garment that fits various body types and sizes, the patt geometrically to create What is Pattern Grading?

Patterns initially are made in only one size. In order to produce clothing that fits various body types and sizes, geometrically to create a complete range of sizes. The process of resizing the initial pattern is called "grading." specifications for each size, and size specifications vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Grading is the method used to increase or decrease the sample size production pattern to make up a complete s patterns must be made larger to accommodate sizes 12, 14 and 16 and smaller for sizes 8 and 6. Each company For example, a missy manufacturers grade rules might call for increments of one and a half inches in width an

Today most manufacturers grade pattern on CAD systems. The pattern maker guides a cursor around the edges each of the key points, he or she pushes a button to record a grade point. Each point is cross referenced by a gr enlarges or reduces the pattern automatically according to the predetermined direction. If the pattern was origin computer and can be enlarged or reduced automatically.

Pre-programmed grade rules for increase or decrease are automatically applied to the pieces of each grading loc

each new size. Manufacturers often use an outside service to make patterns, grade patterns, and make the marke

Although many small firms still use traditional grading methods, grading, like patternmaking, is becoming incre

the pattern can be resized according to a predetermined table of sizing increments (or "grade rules"). The compu

size. Because the productivity gains are so great, small to medium-sized manufacturers are beginning to acquire Alternatively, they may use an outside grading service to perform this function. Shrinkage

When fabric is cut for making garments, it is important to ensure that fabric is fully relaxed and is not subjecte or unrolling while layering for cutting. So fabrics are often relaxed prior to cutting to ensure that the shrinkage unwashed and can shrink while laundering at customers end are made with measurements with shrinkage toler shrink just a little. This will usually be about 2-3% which is fairly unnoticeable. Knits that are not garment dye Shrinkage for knit fabrics can be anywhere from 1-8% and 95% of this shrinkage will take place the first time incorporated in all the patterns of a garment. This shrinkage incorporated in patterns could be lengthwise or wi Shrinkage adjusting

Shrinkage adjustments should not distort the original shape and balance of the patterns. When shrinkage is app patterns must also be applied with shrinkage adjustments. Shrinkage Incorporation in Pattern Grading

Grading and shrinkage incorporation in a pattern is very important and plays a big role in not only getting corr also measurements as graded specs. Pattern grading is a technique of scaling a pattern to reproduce a pattern in properly fit a pattern to a range of sizes, each pattern piece needed to be graded, or systematically increased or

proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern, while maintaining shape, fit, balance and scale of style only makes a shape larger or smaller and isnt intended to change a shape. Grading also reflects the fact that in different, not uniformly different. Stacking or 0 point for grading For grading it is important to have stack point which will define the x or y grading of pattern. It is defined a Front, back or sleeve panel. For centre front it is perpendicular to the centre of check line. For sleeve the 0 Length Grade

Front and back neck drop is applied to shoulder neck point. Shoulder line should remain parallel betw

Body length is distributed between the shoulder neck point and the bottom. Grading is divided between hip and bottom. Body length combined grading is total of centre front length and neck drop. Neck width is applied at the shoulder neck point it is always parallel to check line. Armhole curve is combined measurement of armhole width and armhole height grade

Sleeve Grade

Sleeve armhole is combined measurement of sleeve cap height grade and sleeve bicep grade along the

Sleeve length from shoulder is distributed between the sleeve cap and bottom sleeve edge. Sleeve cap g while balance length is divided between bicep line and sleeve cuff.

Marker

Marker is a thin paper on which all pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments are drawn in su fabric wastage will be minimum.

Marker Marker Efficiency:

The ratio of area for pattern pieces that are placed on the marker to the total area of the marker expressed as pe

Marker efficiency is the important part of garments manufacturing. Direct cost of garments could be utilized b truly depends upon the capability to increase the marker efficiency.

Marker efficiency is determined by fabric utilization, the percentage of the total fabric that is actually used in g is waste. Marker efficiency depends on how tightly the pattern pieces fit together within the marker. The total s the total area of the marker to calculate the percentage of fabric that is used. This is determined automatically b and marker planning technology is not available, the area of each pattern piece may be determined by a perime surface area as the outline of the pattern is traced. Factors that affect marker efficiency are fabric characteristic requirements.

Pattern Markings

Marking refers to the process of placing pattern pieces to maximize the number of patterns that can be cut out o

Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, sensitivity for design interpretation technology used by the factory. Industrial pattern making has two basic type Pattern Markings

Once the pattern is graded, the fabric must be prepared for cutting the spreader must know how the pattern pieces will be placed on the fabric. "Marking" refers to the process of patterns that can be cut out of a given piece of fabric. Firms strive for "tight" markers largely because fabric is

costs, often exceeding the cost of labor. Although markers can be made by hand or using CAD software, the co Once a marker is completed, a CAD system can use a plotter to print a full size layout on a long sheet of paper

Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric layout to suggest so fabric can be used effic patterns are attached to the fabric with the help of adhesive stripping or staples. Markers are laid in such a way during cutting operation. After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how much fabric he has

garments. Therefore careful execution is important in this step. Computer marking is done on specialized softwares. In computerized marking there is no need of large paper mathematical calculations are made instead to know how much fabric is required.

Not every marking is on every pattern because some are specific to a certain style or construction technique. L transferred to the fabric. Construction markings, on the other hand, are very helpful during the sewing process

Objectives of Marker Efficiency: -Examine how fabric utilization affects marker efficiency -Enumerate the factors affecting material utilization Factors of Marker Efficiency 1. 2. 3. 4. Fabric Characteristics Characteristics of Pattern Pieces Grain Line Orientation Standards of Fabric Utilization

Factors of Marker Efficiency are described briefly: Fabric Characteristics: Fabric characteristics that affect utilization include differences in face and back, lengthwise directionality, crosswise symmetry, need for matching the fabric design, length of design repeat, and fabric width. These fabric characteristics frequently limit the arrangement of pattern pieces. Matching fabric designs requires special marker preparation and extra piece goods. Stripe or plaid lines must be indicated on pattern pieces and markers for accurate alignment and matching to corresponding pieces. The greater the length between repeats increases the potential for fabric waste. Characteristics of Pattern Pieces: Characteristics of pattern pieces may limit fabric utilization. Generally the fabric utilization percentage increases when a variety of garment sizes are used in the same marker and when the marker contains both large and small pieces. Smaller pieces can often be nested with larger pieces. The shape of the pattern pieces determine how close they can be fit together (interlock). Irregular shaped pieces are difficult to fit together with other pieces. Large pattern pieces are less flexible and often dictate the placement of other pieces. Grain Line Orientation: Grain line markings determine the placement of the pattern relative to the warp yarns in wovens or Wales in knit fabrics. Pattern pieces with a similar grain orientation, if grouped together on the marker, generally produce better utilization. Combining several bias pieces and straight grain

pieces may not fit together as well and create more fabric waste. Markers usually have good utilization when all pattern pieces are on the bias or all pieces are cut on straight grain. The firm's standards for grain tolerance may also affect marker efficiency. Tilting specific pattern pieces 1 or 2 percent may not be noticeable, and it may increase fabric utilization noticeably. This practice can impact the fit and drape of he finished garment but it may not be noticeable to the untrained eye. Computer marker-making programs will lock in the grain orientation of each piece unless an override function is used to adjust them. This can be done on a piece-by-piece basis. Standards of Fabric Utilization: Firms often establish fabric utilization standards. Firms producing basics may strive for 90 to 97 percent utilization, while fashion-firms may be able to achieve only 80 to 85 percent. It is important for firms to document material utilization and variances from the standards to monitor improvements or factors that impact the utilization. Better utilization is normally developed for basic styles because optimum fabric widths are used consistently and more time invested in cut planning and manipulating pattern pieces in the markers to reduce waste of materials. Markers for basic styles are used to cut large volumes of piece goods and may be kept on file and used repeatedly; thus, the time invested in improving utilization results in greater savings. Markers for fashion styles and Quick Response strategies may be used only once or for a limited number of spreads and few ply. Fashion garments are subject to constant changes in styling and materials and tight deadlines that limit the time available to develop efficient markers.

Fashion Merchandising; Fashion merchandising is the combination of the processes that a new fashion item must go through to be available in mass quantities to the consumer after it is left the hands of the designer. Fashion merchandising often gets confused with fashion marketing and although they work together, they are two very different things. To understand fashion merchandising completely, it is important to examine the role that fashion merchandising plays in manufacturing, buying, promoting and selling fashion items. In regards to manufacturing, a fashion merchandiser will have significant input on the types of fabrics used to make a piece of clothing. Having a strong historical and socio-cultural understanding of the fabrics, help change a designers vision into reality. By applying their knowledge about fabric and clothing construction, a fashion merchandiser will take a designers piece and find the best way to manufacture the item while taking things like price and target market into consideration. Buying becomes part of fashion merchandising when a merchandiser buys fashion items to be presented in a store. A fashion merchandiser must be aware of the target market for the fashion item and also very well-versed in fashion trend analysis and forecasting. This allows for more accurate ordering. A fashion merchandiser working with a designer will once again offer expertise to the designer on textiles and fabrics.

In the event that a fashion merchandiser is working for the designer, promoting the designers product to stores that may want to buy large quantities is a number one priority. Not only is fashion merchandiser required having a creative mind and strong visual merchandising skills, production skills must be sharp as well. Fashion merchandising promotes a designers items through the use of fashion shows where creativity and visual effects must run wild to capture the attention of potential buyers. Additionally, fashion merchandisers seek out the target market for a designers clothing, such as childrens clothing stores, department stores or discount retailers. The final component of fashion merchandising is selling. A fashion merchandiser that works with a designer is responsible for selling fashion items to stores, who then sells to consumers. Again the merchandiser must have an idea about forecasting and market trends so they may give their recommendation regarding production of the item. Creativity is important, because a merchandiser must offer suggestions on how to display the items within the store. When a fashion merchandiser works for a retail store, responsibilities include buying and presenting fashion items within the store.

Buying

A fashion merchandise is responsible for selecting the merchandise that will sell in stores. This merchandise must be in alignment with the company's brand image. The merchant must choose trend-right merchandise that is also appropriate for the target customer's fashion level. This requires knowledge of current and future fashion trends -- both high-fashion from the runway and mass-market trends. Financial Accountability

Meeting financial objectives is the primary component of a fashion merchandiser's job. The merchandiser must maintain profitability by meeting certain financial plans set for each season. All merchandise bought must be appropriate for the customer and offered at a reasonable yet profitable price. A merchandiser's performance review will be partially based on the profit margin reached, rates of merchandise turnover and sales volume. Customer Knowledge

In order to offer an appealing assortment, a merchant must be intimately familiar with the needs and wants of the target customer. This is accomplished by spending time in stores, even working full shifts in them. A merchandiser should research fashion trends, read trade newspapers, and follow the semi-annual runway shows. A merchandiser should also spend time in competitors' stores, study other retailers' merchandise and track when they deliver new assortments. Visual Merchandising

Visual merchandising refers to the display of items in stores, including signage and marketing materials. When buying goods, a merchandiser must always think of how items will be shown. This involves determining which types of fixtures and folding methods will be necessary to properly house merchandise. Visual merchandising is important because sales can be negatively affected if items are not displayed correctly.

Administration

Administrative work isn't the most exciting of tasks that a merchandiser must perform, but it is essential. A great deal of paperwork is necessary to take a product from its initial concept to arrival in the store. A buyer may file buy sheets, purchase orders, price ticket info and marketing materials. All must be completed with an extreme attention to detail. Garment Sampling Garment samples are inevitably important and are developed tested before starting the bulk production. It means making a sample of the garment /fabric which requires to be sold. Sampling is one of the main processes in Garment Industry and it has a vital role in attracting buyers. Because the buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of the samples.

Sampling The samples decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will access the exporter and his organization only by the samples. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and with optimum quality. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk orders and also give some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling only the exporter can optimize the processing parameters formats production, which helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks. All these works are carried out by the sampling department, which us led by a sampling in charge The Details Attached to the Garment Sample After the confirmation of order, each sample sent t 0 the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

Ref no. Color Fabric Composition Description Quantity

Style n0/ Size

There may be a separate sampling department in a company. But as the merchandiser is the person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this sampling department will work under the supervision of merchandising department. Also as the samples are to be made according to the buyers price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advise sampling department suitably .Persons involved in Sampling We have to send many samples to buyers. They are

Salesmen samples or promotional samples Proto samples or fit samples Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples Wash test samples Photo samples Fashion show samples Pre-production samples Production samples Shipment samples

Sampling Process

The process of sample department varies from context to context, and the development process covers a wide range of diverse products from new fibers, fiber blends, new yarns, fabric structures ,finishes and surface effects and all types of made up products such as knitwear, hosiery, cut and sewn garments, household products, technical and medical products. There are different phases of sampling; the first phase covers the development of the initial concept or design idea through its approval by the customer and full review/risk analysis by the development and production teams. The second phase covers the

process following acceptance of the first prototype sample and includes the functions of sourcing and ordering component, testing the product and carry out trails once the finalized sample specifications has been drawn up, the third and final phase commences. The phase includes a range of activities that are carried out before large scale or bulk production capacity outside the home producer/developers whereve this is applicable.

Development samples or enquiry samples

When we work with some buyers continuously, we will have to keep on sending samples to them very often. Whenever they have enquiries, buyer may need samples. Buyers may like to see the garments in a new fabric. For one enquiry, they may need samples in different fabrics to choose from. If they want to develop new style in new fabric, then also we will have to send these samples.

We may have to spend too much on these samples. But these samples are inevitably important to develop business. Sometimes, even the buyer is not so confident of some enquiries, if our samples are good and attractiv at reasonable prices, they will bring orders to us. Also we will have to send samples to the newly contacted buyers to show our workmanship, product range, quality standards and price level. These samples should be sent so that they would attract the buyers. So it is better for a company to have a separate sampling department so that they can create new styles in new fabrics to impress the buyers. Salesmen samples or promotional samples

Some buyer needs these samples for getting the orders from their customers. If the buyer is having 7 salesmen in his office, then the buyer will ask us to make 7 samples in each style. The salesmen will book the orders from their customers, by showing these samples. Buyer will place the order to us accumulating the quantities.

If we have sent samples for 5 styles, sometimes, we may get orders for all 5 styles, 3 styles or 1 style. Sometimes, we may not get order for even a single style. Expected sales may not be possible, due to poor qualit unsuitable colors, improper measurements, unmatched prints or embroidery, etc of salesmen samples. Or it may be due to local business recession or competition or unsuitable prices. Any way, we have to make these salesmen samples perfectly with sincere interest to get orders.

We might have spent more money, time, etc for making these samples. But as we dont get orders, we cannot blame the buyer. He too can not help us in this regard. To avoid this embarrassing situation, it is better to discus about the cost of these samples with the buyer before proceeding for sampling.

Normally the sampling will cost us approximately 3 to 5 times of the garment price. We cannot expect to get the full cost from the buyer. Of course these samples will help us for our business. Hence we can ask the buyer to accept 2 or 3 times of garment price as the sampling cost, for the styles which we dont get orders. Some genuin buyers will agree for this. Photo samples or fit samples

These samples are to be made after getting the order sheets. These samples are needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the actual measurements and

specifications. Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos of garments on photo inlays, packing box, hang tag, etc. These samples may be needed for local advertisement or buyers promotional occasions. In any case, the samples will be worn by the highly paid models. The buyers will arrange the photo shoot session, by spending huge money to the advertising agencies. So the buyers will need these samples strictly on time. If they dont get samples on time, the buyers will have to pay more compensation to the advertising agencies and models. Buyers will ask us to make the photo samples according to the intended models body fit. So it is important to strictly adhere to these measurements. Buyer may ask these samples to send either from production or before starting production Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples These samples are to be made in actual fabrics with actual trims. If the order is for 3 colors, buyer may need samples in any one color and swatches (fabric bits) in other colors. These samples should be strictly as per the specifications in the order sheets. We have to get the approval for these samples from the buyer before starting production. After getting the approval, the approved samples should be followed in production. Sometimes, buyer may comment on fabric, measurements, making, etc. We have to follow his comments carefully in production. Some buyer will mention that the order sheets subject to the approval of counter samples. So these samples are very important. Wash test samples

If these samples are sent before starting production and if we get some remarks or comments on these samples, we can correct them in production. But some buyers will need us to send these samples from production before shipment. In this case, these samples may be considered as shipment samples. If these samples are rejected due to some complaints, then we will not have any excuse and we will be in real trouble. Pre-production samples These samples are almost like approval samples. They have to be made in actual production fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be like these samples. Production samples

These samples are to be sent before shipment to get the buyers confirmation for shipment. Hence these samples

are needed to be perfect in all manners. Buyer may check these samples for everything or anything. Sometimes, they may do wash test also. We should not get any remark or comment. We have to get only OK from the buyer. Then only we can ship the goods and we can be sure of getting payment. So these samples are to be sent with more and more care Shipment samples These samples are to be sent after shipment. They should be sent in actual packing with all labels, tags, etc. (Generally these samples will not be tested by buyer for anything. And even if we get some comments from buyers, we can save ourselves by saying that these samples were sent from the left over garments after the shipment; hence there might be some mistakes. If we expect any comments in these samples, it is better to inform the buyer during sending these samples).

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