{kuala lumpur} TRAVEL

Once a deserted neighbourhood of Kuala Lumpur, Mont Kiara is now a hub of activity, brimming with malls, markets and a burgeoning arts scene.
These days the Kuala Lumpur suburb of Mont Kiara, with its luxury condominium towers and polished pleasure zones, has become the epitome of the concrete jungle. Forty years ago, however, it actually used to be jungle, traversed by a single rough road where residents soberly reported having seen tigers in the early days of the Federation of Malaya. The glittering Petronas Towers in the city centre may be the symbol of modern Malaysias economic rise, but its at Mont Kiara in KLs north-west beloved of expats, Ferrari owners and even the king of Malaysia, whose new palace was constructed here in 2011 where this ascent is actually lived. Just 10 minutes by taxi from KLs Sentral Station is the citys new it location, drawing well-heeled residents away from stand-bys such as Bangsar and Bukit Bintang to shop, drink and dine. EAT Newly opened Publika shopping mall, a self-proclaimed urban centre for creative
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Mont Kiara
basil, capers, garlic and anchovies; or a more-ish sticky date pudding with caramel sauce. The unassuming Chawan cafe just outside the Publika entrance cooks up superb no-frills Malay comfort food such as nasi tomato ayam goreng berempah herbed and fried crispy skinned chicken with ginger and savoury tomato rice. For best views, head to the terrace at Zenders Restaurant & Bar. Hidden away at the far end of the plaza, overlooking the towers of downtown and the domes of the new National Palace, this is a great place to enjoy salmon tartare. BUY Mont Kiara is also a hotbed of KLs up-andcoming arts scene. Art Row, located

On the radar: Kuala Lumpur

activity represents the leading edge of luxe, and if you can get past the concept of a hip retail centre (this is the tropics, after all, and air-con is king), theres lots to love here. Start with a siphon-filtered long black and French toast with banana, macadamia brittle and mascarpone on the industrialplush patio of Journal by Plan B restaurant, which takes inspiration from New York City delis and Melbourne cafes. In the basement, the massive Bens Independent Grocer (like Journal, a venture of superstar restaurateur Benjamin Yong) sells everything from Australian Streaky Bay oysters to Royces boutique chocolates, though its the Bens General Food Store cafe within that draws many visitors, offering panzanella bread salad with

Take a souvenir
Visit ThirtyFour, an outlet by local designers Shuenn Kee and Linda Chong just off Publikas Art Row, for handmade leather goods such as bracelets, sandals and bags. If you have a bit of extra time, they can even custom-emboss your purchase.

October 2013

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TRAVEL {kuala lumpur}

DRINK While the daylight hours in Mont Kiara may be lovely, its what happens here when the sun goes down that really has the local
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Getting There To book your flight to Kuala Lumpur, visit www.virginaustralia. com or simply call 13 67 89 (in Australia).

October 2013

Words & Photography: Matthew Crompton

outside on Publikas G2 block, is an avenue of visual fine art, home furnishing and design stalls based on the pop-up concept. Here, local designers and artists exhibit the newest and best of their collections on rotating three-month leases, ensuring a constantly fresh look at the everevolving world of design in the Malaysian capital. Kedai Bikin, a design studio on Art Row, is an excellent example of whats to be found here: accessories and furniture with simple, elegant design thats 100 per cent local Malaysian-made using fair-trade fabrics. For those looking for a more traditional shopping scene, the Sunday-morning open-air Arts, Bric-a-brac and Craft (ABC) Market at Plaza Mont Kiara offers a classic Malaysian market experience with food, fashion, antiques, souvenirs and everything in between. It can be hit or miss, but at its best it offers better prices than KLs Central Market, without the hassle or aggressive vendors.

scene buzzing. Come nightfall, Publika draws young singles and professionals to watering holes such the aptly named The Social, and chilled-out tapas bar Estilo, with its galaxy of signature sangrias. However, its the palm-lined boulevard of Jalan Solaris (only a 10-minute walk or a quick taxi ride away) thats Mont Kiaras real nightspot. Solaris resembles one of Seouls more upmarket neighbourhoods and its close ties to the expat community are reflected in a string of Middle Eastern bars such as the chilled-out Shisha Lounge. Its an excellent spot to relax on cushions and enjoy a crisp mojito and a hookah of apple shisha, and it even hosts regular live music nights. Downstairs, the Brussels Beer Caf boasts a surprisingly cosmopolitan spread of some of the worlds best brews, including malty Leffe Brune on draught and bottles of spicy Chimay trappist ale. If youre hungry, the cafes extensive menu of Belgian-style pub grub even includes recommended beer pairings.

(clockwise from top left) Zenders Restaurant & Bar; industrial chic at Journal by Plan B; nightlife at The Social; Kedai Bikin on Art Row; Bens Independent Grocer; Chawan cafes comfort food.

Little BLACK BOOK

ABC Market Plaza Mont Kiara. Art Row 1 Jalan Dutamas; +60 3 6207 9732. Bens Independent Grocer Publika; +60 3 6209 1700; www.thebiggroup.co/BIG. Brussels Beer Caf 2 Jalan Solaris; +60 3 6205 2999; www.brusselsbeercafe.com. Chawan Publika; +60 3 6411 6488. Estilo Publika; www.estilo.com.my/wp. Journal by Plan B Publika; +60 3 6205 5318. Kedai Bikin Lot 52, Art Row, Publika; +60 3 2201 9737; www.studiobikin.com. The Social 5759 Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar Baru; www.facebook.com/thesocial.malaysia. ThirtyFour 861 Jalan Medang Serai; www.facebook.com/thirtyfour.net. Publika 1 Jalan Dutamas 1, Solaris Dutamas; +60 3 6207 9426; www.publika.com.my. Shisha Lounge 2 Jalan Solaris; +60 3 6211 2338. Zenders Restaurant & Bar Publika; www.facebook.com/zenderspublika.