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Cultura Documentos
t'^if/r-M&wfim
SHILLING'
roR
COOKERY
THE PEOPLE:
EMBKACING
By ALEXIS SOYER,
AUTHOR OP
"
"Religion
feed.?
Eba
^untixzp
mii^
&mu)i W^onpun^.
56,
WALKER
Sl?REET.
1860.
iTIie
this
Work
it.']
'^^^s^t
SATIIiL
AND EDWABDS,
PRIIfTERS,
CHANDO& STKEETy
COVBNT GAKDEH".
'*"*
My
Lord,
The kind
the dedication of this
work
upon
my most
be,
Your
obedient servant,
ALEXIS SOYER
PREFACE
TO THE
110^=
THOUSAND.
It
is
more
extraordinary
is
indeed
my
last
its
thousand in
less
In
this,
by
work
as I
a point of
to those
my
power
society, I
immediately went to
my
Strand,
who
Yours most
gratefully
and devotedly,
the year
A.
SOYEE in
18M
CONTENTS.
fjuass
iNTKODXTCTIOir,
.
.
Fish in Tin-pan in Oven , Fried Fish The Three-legged Iron-pot Important Observations on Curing
Lamb
Ox-liveT as used in France French Pot-au-feu Important Remarks on Cod-liver Oil Carthusian of Meat and Vegetables General Ignorance ef the Poor in Cooking The Gridiron and Frying-pan .
Important Remarks on Steak and Rumpsteak Introduction to Frying-pan Fowls . . , , Curious Effects of Imagination . Introduction to Baking Stewpan Hints on the Pig . ^
On Roasting
How
On
to
Roast
....
,
.
the Economy of Roasting by Gas, Note Cottage Roasting . . Time-table for Roasting . . On Meat in Baker's Oven . few Hints on Baking Meat . An Improved Baking-dish. A Series of Receipts on Baked Meats
Vegetables General Lesson on the Cooking of Vegetables Plant called the Thousand Heads
....
Eggs
CONTENTS*
PAGB
National Frencli Cake, or Galette . Introduction to Sweet and Savoury Pies Sweet and Fruit Puddings Observations on Bottled Preserves
.
.125
.
;
.
....
.
. .
-^ .
Relishes
Mushrooms
161 166
ib.
Hints on Coffee, Tea, &c. Beverages . . Series of New and Cheap Drinks On Marketing . . . Kitchen Requisites . On the Selection of Vegetables Soyer's Aerial Cooking Stove .
A few
<
168 170
ib.
174 175
ib.
IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS.
First, most of the receipts, having been especially written for the various ordinary kitchen utensils, some of them may appear to the reader to be repetitions, which is not the case, as the same food may be used, yet each process will differ one from the other, from having
been cooked in a
different
manner.
Secondly, to obviate the reading of two or three receipts to be able to execute one, I have made each receipt in itself as complete as possible, as regards seasoning and proportion, and the few references I unavoidably make will, after a little practice, become familiar to my readers. Many of the receipts may appear to you rather lengthy, but I want to draw your attention to the fact, that they are more than receipts indeed, I may call them plain lessons, some containing a number of receipts in one. In some cookery books many receipts are explained in few lines, which at first sight gives to the thing the appearance of simplicity ; but when acted on by the uninitiated are found totally impracticable. By my plan my readers may read and prepare the contents of two or three lines at a time, so that when they get at the end of a lesson,, their dish will be found well seasoned and properly cooked.
INTRODUCTORY LETTERS.
Dear
Eloise,
More
you such
receipts
now
elapsed
would send
as
The time
But
you
dearest, I
lost
any time
for
conveyed
my
receipts
In the course of
my
peregrinations, I have
made a
and have
also closely
with pleasure the exertions made by philanthropic individuals to improve the morals of the labouring class,
and
the means of
S
Those who
INTRODUCTORY USTTBRS.
visit these
1
to inculcate the
humble abodes
man
In some of my
fient
letters,
my
course of
my rambles,
a want of knowledge,
what a high
feeling of delight
and
satisfaction it will
be
to us, should
we
crowned with
stated
cla^s
may move,
is
Dearest Hortense,
I highly approve of your plan
it is
time that
it
action.
am
fearfal that
whom we
work
have become
your
visits to
whom
it is
intended, that
IKTRODUCTORY LETTERS.
adapted for such humble utensils as the gridiron, fryingpan, iron pan, and black pot,
is
at once original,
and
cannot
fail
how
faithfal
have been.
If a person, after purchasing this
\
work
for a shilling,
five or six
it,
more in kitchen
utensils before
he could cook by
its
it
you have
so
it
into action.
blessing to
many,
It
I
is
to be regretted that
men
magnitude as
it is
now.
I myself think
for,
it
worthy
as
you justly
; ;
INTRODUCTOIIY LETTERS.
production and preparation of
its food,
and most
heartilj
My
dearest Friend,
Cookery, in our
era,
men
of science
political,
commercial, or even a
domestic event, but what always has been, and always will
be, celebrated either
by a banquet or a dinner?
And pray,
in-
who
is
The selection
of good
will,
may be
purchased months,
a dinner
is
moment.
prepared.
especially if a
upon
is,
a^ a distinguished
member
of society j while
now
hr
mere menial.
who
who
let
daj-
art.
For example,
INTRODUCTORY LETTERS.
(Liebig) says
T^ork, "
O
his valuable
to man there is none which enjoys and the products of which are more universally admired, than that which is concerned in the preLed by an instinct, which has almost paration of our food.
"
a
Among
juster
the arts
known
appreciation,
reached the dignity of conscious knowledge, as the unerring guide, and by the sense of taste, which protects the health, the
experienced cook, with respect to the choice, the admixture, and
the preparation of food, has
made
juice;
In soup and meat sauces, and by the cheese which closes tha
dishes, appears
The
table,
supplied with
to
the
and so arranged
maximum
of effect
may
The
that, whv^n brought into action, be obtained b^ the theory of them. accompanies the sanguineous matter
with those which promote the process of solution and sanguification, in due proportion ; he avoids all kinds of unnecessary stimuli, such as do not act in restoring the equilibrium ; and he provides the due nourishment for the child or the weak old man, as well as for the strong of both sexes.'*
Such
is
that learned
there
is
Therefore I do not
have
now
close our
first
auc?
forward to you.
OR STEWPAN.
SIMPLIFIED STOCK FOE SOUPS, GEAYIES,
AND
the great
PLAIN SAUCES.
Eloise,
of not
in
of the reason
why
the simple reason is, that every receipt described is so complicated and expensive, that they cannot afford either the money, time, or attention, to prepare it. I will therefore endeavour, in this little book, to obviate that difficulty, by simplifying the receipts, and reduce it to a system alike quicl^^ nutritious, wholesome, and economical; and thus soup may form a part of the daily fare of every dinner table. Please pay particular attention to the follovring receipt, for when you are perfect in it, and can make it quick and well, almost every sort of soup can be made from it, and it will often be referred
to in different sauces
and
dishes.
1.
First Lesson.
Cut
two pounds
them
in the
two ounces of
two ounces of
n bacon
eoups.
In ease bacon or liam cannot be obtained, use half a pound mors meat mid a little more salt. Tlie meat not being overstewed, will be found excellent eaten plain, or with parsley and butter, or any sauce.
Second Lesson. Proceed exactly as E'o. 1. Add t^vo and about two ounces of carrot, and tlie same of turnip, leeks, celery, or a quarter of a pound of one of tbem, if you To add more zest to the flavour, add cannot get the variety. the smallest quantity of thyme, winter savory, or a bay leaf. You are, no doubt, aware that at present, in most market towns, an assorted lot of vegetables m.ay be obtained at one penny per This second lesson is plate, and sometim.es at one halfpenny. very important, as it gives you the key whereby you may vary the flavour of every kind of soup.
2.
cloves
Note.
required
This broth
to
is
of a nice white
sherr}^
colour,
and should
:
it
be
(sc-e
look
like
wine, add
sufiicieiit
colouring,
it is making these in most bocomiiig common, and may be procured at the They will go a great grocers, at the cost of eightpence the ponnd. way, and if kept in a dry place will last for years.
now
Gravies.- Tha following is very good for brovrn kind of roast meat, game, or poultry; and a gill of it may be used to give a colour to any kind of As there is a little broth, instead of colouring or burnt onions. difficulty to mxake it properly, it should only be done on particular
3.
Brown
and
sauce,
occasions.
fat,
place over
;
them
cut
slantway in pieces., chop the bone, then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half a spoonful of pepper; set it on the fire until it begins to hiss, whicl?,
it
o!
the
fire
cover over.
put on the pan with the Let the onions stew until quite brov/n, but not
;
which you
iy holding the pan Gf pot on one side, the contents of which will be smoking hot, and stick to the bottom, though not bm-ning immediately add five pints of cold water ; when boiling, skim and simmer ono hour; pass through the sieve, and put bj till
.
gOUFS.
fanted.
many
summer, by boiling
addition of half
now and
then.
4. Lesson No. 2. The remains of roast or boiled meat, game, poultry, &c., may be added, cut up, and the bones broken^
The
and
gravy.
5.
little
celery,
1. Cut
in small dice,
and celery, altogether about half a pound ; wash them well, drain, put into pan or iron pot, two ounces of butter or dripping, and a teaspoonful of sugar; put on the fire, stir often; when no moisture is to be seen add three pints of broth 'No. 1, simmer and skim, If all the above vegeuntil the carrots are tender, and serve. tables cannot be obtained at the same time, use the same weight
of either.
soup.
Be
careful that
fat
from
all clear
when
of a brownish colour.
6.
Lesson No.
also
2.The
when
season,
small pieces
chervil
of brocoli,
a cauliflower, or a few
little
and refreshing.
Clear Turnip, Lesson No. 3.Peel and cut in large dice pound of turnips, put in pan v/ith butter or fat, and a littl?. sugar ; proceed as above, Lesson K'o. 1, add the broth, simmer skim, and serve. It will not require so long doing as No. L
7.
half a
Give
it
a nice
brown
colour.
Jerusalem
;
ArticJiolces.
Wash,
above
Siem.
9.
till
tender
Carrot Soup. For carrots proceed as Loove, and simmei they takfj twice as long as the artichokes doing.
;
10
10. the
SOUPS.
Vermicelli and Macaroni, Vmy, Eloise, wlij sliould not workman and mechanic partake of these wholesome and nu-
which have now, in consequence of those on provisions having been repealed, become so plentiful and cheap ? It only requires to know how to cook them, in order that they should become as favourite a food in these northern climes, as they are in the southern.* Boil three pints of the broth No. 1, break into it a quarter of a pound of vermicelli or macaroni; boil till tender, and serve. Macarorjii takes twice as long as vermicelli doing.
tritions articles of food,
restrictive laws
Or, the macaroni can be boiled separate, and kept in salt and water for some days, and used as required for soups and made
dishes.
11. Rice.
it
rice
boil
when
tender, serve.
and Semolina.
In
case of illness,
two ounces of
tapioca or semolina
13.
may
be used instead.
When the broth No. 1 is done, put the meat in the tureen, then put into a 6asin two ounces of flour, mix gently with half a pint of milk, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper; add to the broth by degrees ; boil it ten minutes, and keep stirring
Wliite Soup with Heat.
fat,
skim
off the
may
be added.
14. Good Wliite Mode Turtle Soup may be easily and cheaply Purchase a calf's head if large, use one half for made thus
;
cook as receipt No. 87 take the remains of a day's dinner that, if any, with the other half, and remove the bone ; cut the
; ;
flour and and half a teaspoonful oi cayenne pepper, and four cloves ; let it simmer on the fire fot one hour, tie up six sprigs of savory, same of thj^me, which put The juice of half a into the soup, and remove when serving. lemon is an improvement, just before serving, as well as a di'op of
meat meat
add
it
it
in proportion of one
;
pound of
mix some
jsiakes four
* Macaroni is now selling in London at fivepence per pound, and pounds of food when boUed^ ai^ No. 462.
SOUPS.
wine, if handy.
;
11
If requii^ed brown, add tliree taolespoonfuls of and use water or brotli for thickening, instead of milk. The water in which the calf's head is boiled may be kept, and added to the stock. This soup will keep for a long time if boiled it should never be covered, 'oc(5asionally, and a little water added
colouring
;
should be occasionally stirred until cold. Strong stocks are more likely to turn sour than thin ones, more particularly if they have vegetables and flour in them ; to prevent which, when this soup is kept in a basin,
or fermentation will
;
commence
it
leave the
mouth exposed
to the air.
15. Coio-Jieel.
made by an
and partly
ttie
boiled, stew
bone, cut
them
turtle.
Wldte Soicp, with Vegetables, ^c, Having cut and fried same quantity of vegetables as E'o. 1, add them to the white soup, free from meat as IN^o. 13 ; simmer and skim, off the fat.
16.
the
Two
rice, &c.,
previously boiled,
Puree, or
TJiiclc
cheap, in the pot or pan, with and the same of lean bacon cut small, a middling- sized onion, little mint, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, half the same of pepper, a gill of water set on slow fire, stir now and then, or until no more moisture remains on the bottom of the pan; add two or three tablespoonfuls 3f flour, stir round quick, and break the peas against the side of the pan with a wooden spoon moisten wdth a quart of milk and a quart of water, simmer twenty minutes, or more if old peas, and serve. This, by leaving out the bacon, becomes Meagre Soup, Eried bread, in small dice, is a good accompaniment. If you have any broth (Ko. 1), use it instead of the milk and
when
fat,
5'ater.
By passing the peas through a hair sieve, which is done by breaking and pressing them with the back of the spoon, an :cviting puree is produced ; after which warm up, and serve.
18. JPimiphin
Soup
is
a very
favourite dish in
many parts o
'
12
SOUFS.
;
there*
not a
it must be very wholesome. In whose climate will not allow its arriving at the same size as on the Continent, the Vegetable Marrow, the American Butter Squash, and the Mammoth Gou/rd, will
it is
this country,
replace them.
Cut about two pounds of the flesh of the pumpkin or gourd it into your pan, with three ounces of salt add two teaspoonfuls of salt, the same of sugar, a butter or fat little pepper, and half a pint of water ; set on the fire, and stew gently for twenty minutes. When in pulp, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir round, and moisten with three pints of either milk, skim-milk, or water, boil ten minutes longer, and
into large dice, put
;
This soup is on the list of meagre soups, 19. Meagre Soups. a word used by the Catholics for dishes partaken of in Lent, but which is not understood in England the word having the meaning, want of strength. But this soup, and many others in the same category, are well worthy the attention of the middle classes of this country, it being only meagre in name, and not in fact, as it possesses a large quantity of farinaceous matter bread being also served with it.
;
Peel, and take out the inside, if two pounds; put in saucepan on the add two teafire, with a quarter of a pound of butter or fat spoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, and one quarter of the same of pepper, a gill of water, and one onion sliced ; stew gently until in pulp, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and proceed as for
20.
Vegetable
Marrow.
pumpkin
soup.
21. Turroip
Soup.
Use
turnips,
and proceed
as above.
Sed Carrot Soup. Scrape gently, and cut in very thin two pounds of carrots; put them in the saucepan or pot with two onions sliced, two ounces of ham cut small, two cloves, a little thyme, salt, pepper, sugar, as above, half a pint of water, simmer gently forty minutes, then add three tablespoonfuls of jELouTg and two quarts of broth (No. 1), or use milk, or even water.
22.
slices
BOUF^.
it is
j2p
IS
warm
White Carrot.-Proceed
carrot.
:&f
Soup. A most refresMng and end of tlie London season, when the iQarkets are fall of everything, and few to partake of them, this soup can be made as a bonne bouche :- Wash, dry, and cat up four cabbage lettuces, and one coss ditto, a handful of sorrel, a little tarragon and chervil, and two put into a saucepan |r three small cucumbers peeled and sliced a quarter of a pound of butter, then set in the vegetables put on a slow fire, and stir often, imtil there is no liquid remaining add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, and moisten with two quarts of broth ('No. 1) or water, and set it to boil ; when boiling, add a pint of green peas, two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, a little pepper and salt ; when the peas are tender, serve.
23.
Wew
Spring and
Autumn
exquisite
soup.
At
tlie
NetD Coclc-a-LeeJde,
Ma chere Amie,-With aU due respect to Scotch cookery, I will always give the preference, in the way of soup, to tlieir cock-a-leekie, even before their inimitable hodge-podge. Halving a very old friend, from the neighbourhood of Dundee, who used to praise my cock-aleelcie, when on a visit to St. John's Wood, I thought I would give him the same treat here, and on looking over my frugal store and garden of Camellia Cottage, I found I had all that was required, barring the bird; but, with a little perseverance and ingenuity, I succeeded in producing a very nice soup, although it wanted the principal ingredient, so that it deceived not only my husband, but my friend from the other side of the Tweed. Here is the receipt
,
bought two pounds of veal cutlet, and cut it into from the breast ^f a fowl, and put them in, the pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same -of lean l^acon, three cloves, two good onions sliced, two teaspoonfuls of
24.
;
gait, one of sugar, half a one of pepper, a gill of water set i^ on the lire, turn it over until forming a v/hite glaze at the bottom, add to it five pints of water, simmer half an horn*, pass through a sieve, save the best pieces of the veal. In the ineaii*^
SOUPS.
lime blancL. two pounds of leeks, free fi'om
for ten minutes, in a gallon of water,
tlie
; then boU almost in a pulp, then add the other half of the leeks and the meat, also eighteen good fresh French plums; simmer half an hour, and serve.
I must observe that my friend praised it very much for having in the iiesh of the fowl only, as he thought, and not the whole carcase, which is the way they serve it in Scotland; an exceedingly inconvenient way, as everybody expects a piece ol
mt
you
Cut two pounds of fresh 25. Simplified Sodge-Todge. scrag of mutton into small pieces, which put into a stewpan, with three quarts of cold water, and a tablespoonful of salt, one
boiling, place it at the side to
set it on the fire when simmer for one hour; keep it skimmed; well wash a large carrot, two turnips, two onions, and six small cabbage lettuces cut them up, and place in the ^int of green peas, if in season, pot, and simmer till done. may b added. A carrot grated is an improvement. If in Serve the meat with it. winter, use cabbage instead of lettuce.
Various Meat Soups. G-lhlet.TkQ^Q should be proready cleaned, but if not, they m^ust be scalded ; when 'ione, cut them into about twelve pieces, wash them well, and Jry in a cloth ; put into a pan a quarter of a pound of butter of
26.
inured
dripping, set
stir
it
on the
fire,
continually until
it
melt it, then add four ounces of floui, begins to brown, add two ounces of lean
bacon, and two onions or leeks sliced, fry a few minutes longer, put in the giblets, fry gently for ten minutes, stirring now and then, pour over two quarts of water, stir till boiling, and set it to simmer ; then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half one of pepper one of sugar, three clones, a little thyme, bay leaf, and about a quarter of a pound of celery well w^ashed and cut up small;
continue simmering
iintil
fat,
and
serve.
A
A.
be added.
is,
provement.
turkey.
This receipt
SOUPS.
15
Eloise, Since tlie alteration in our ciieumstanccs I have learnt to practise the most rigid economy, which you will remark in When I buy a hare, as I sometimes (io, for two shiL this receipt. lings, skinning it myself, and selling the skin for fourpence, I save ail the blood in a pie-dish, take out tlie heart and liver, removing the g-all ; I then cut the hare into two, across the back, close to the last -ibs, and cut this part into pieces, using it for soup, and the hindp-art r keep for roasting the following day.
'
Mr DEAH
28.
Hare
Soup.
then proceed as
for
giblet soiif,
only
using half a pound of either veal, beef, or mutton, cut into dice,
Fifteen minutes before and put in the pot with the hare. serving, I mix the blood with the heart and liver, which I have The chopped line, and boil it up ten minutes sldm and serve. addition of a little brown sugar and a glass of port wine is an improvement if no wine, a little stout or porter will improve it. It ought to be of a dark brown colour, for which use colouring.
;
:
Tail. Cut them at the joints, and proceed as for adding one pint more water for two small tails, and simmer half an hour longer, or till done. This should be of a brown colour. Yegetables cut into dice may be added. Serve when tender some will take double the time cooking, according
29.
giblets,
:
Ox
to size.
Ox Cheelc. Boil half a large cheek for twenty minutes two quarts of water, to set it take it out, cut it into thin slices, or small pieces, and then proceed exactly as for giblets.
30. in
;
_
Serve
when
tender.
31. Slw.pl'ijled JSfulligatatmiy, quichly done. Lesson 1. Cut in small dice two pounds of leg of veal, no bone, then put in the pan with two ounces of salt butter, two teaspoonfuls of salt, a quarter that of pepper, a quarter of a pound of onions sliced, and a wine-glass of water. Put it in the pan and place on the fire, stir it about until nearly dry two ounces of bacon or ham is ah improvement then add a good teaspoonful and a half of curry powder, four of flour, and one of brown sugar; m^oisten with five pints of water, simmer for an hour or a little longer, skim, and serve. Half a pound of rice, as No. 455, may be served
;
;
either
with
it
or separate.
\b
SOUFB.
md
little
may be added a small apple, cut in any otber meat may be used, instead of veal, bunch of aromatic herbs; the meat -to remain in the
soup.
32. New Mutton Broth.-^Cui two pounds of the scrag, or any other lean part of mutton, in ten or twelve pieces, put in a pan v/ith two ounces of fat, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, a gill of water, two middle-sized onions, a good teacupful of pearl barley. Set it on the fire, stir round until it is reduced, moisten with five pints of water, boil, and skim, simmer two hours and serve.
;
Potato Soup, Proceed as above, omit the barley, add two pounds of potatoes, peeled and cut in slices, put them in when the broth is boiling simmer till in pulp, and serve. A few sprigs of parsley, or the fiowers of four marigolds, is an improvement, and, at the same time, an agreeable change.
33.
;
34. Ox Tail Soup in Balcing Pa?^. Divide two ox tails, wash them well in cold water, then put them in the pan, with
little
thyme, if handy, two good onions add three quarts of water, two tablespoonfuls of colouring; put on the cover, place it in a moderate oven for three hours to simmer, take off the fat, which Half a pound of any vegetable, mixed save for use, and serve. or not, cut in dice, can be added with advantage.
35.
if
Ox
Clieeic
in
Baking
IP an,
not to be had, get the half head with the bone, in which case they should be broken small and put in tlje broth ; but it gives
more trouble than it is v/orth. The solid meat at threepence per pound is more economical. Wash it well, cut off the white part, put the cheek in the pan, and proceed exactly as above A little mixed spice only give it three or four hom's to bake. Take the fat off, remove the meat, cut it improves the flavour. into small pieces, put it into the tureen, and pour the broth over.
Cheap Tea Soup}. 'Put into the iron pot two ounces of pound of bacon, cut into dice, two good onions shced fry them gently until brownish, then add one large or two small turnips, the same of carrots, one leel^ and one head of celery, all cut thin and slanting (if all these
36.
FISH OK GRIDIRON.
17
fry
cannot be obtained, use any of tliem, but about the same amount) ; for ten minutes more, and tben add seven quarts ol
water; boil up, and add one pound and a half of split peas simmer for two or tliree hours, until reduced to a pulp, which
of
depends on the quality of the pea, then add two tablespoonfuls salt, one of sugar, one of dried mint ; mix half a pound of
flour
stir it
well
37.
Precisely
or
or
butter used
instead of bacon
dripping
skim-milk could
with advantage be used, in v\^hich case add three ounces of salt. Although this is entirely deprived of animal substances, yet the ferinaceous ingredients, with the addition of bread, will act
generously on the digestive organs, satisfying the heartiest eater.
GEIDIEON.
With
this primitive utensil a great deal
it
may
cooking, but
and
money will be
article is
when the
on the gridiron, will save at least twenty per cent., and the more gratified. I use two kinds of gridirons, each costing very little; one is of cast iron, to go on the fire, and the other is of iron wire, made double, to hang from the bar ot the grate before the fire, made so as not to too
palate will feel
much
it.
The
put them away dkty; always wiping the gridiron after it has been used, and again before you use it, and a place kept where it should be hung.
as in all kitchen utensils, is never" to
WHAT
Firstly, Fish, nearly all sorts, both dried and fresh, either whole or in pieces. 1 shall not begin with the king of the ocean, but with one of the most humble of its inliabitants, and which daily gratifies
it is
The
Though we have
is still
18
qnalifcy first, for
FISH ON GEIDIHON.
I must tell you, tliat the quality of herrings varies not more, than any other kind of food; the XJi*oper way of curing them heing as important to know as the quality of the fiesh itself. This unassuming kind of fish, which we may venture to call the poor man's friend, ought to be chosen plump, though not too full of roe, as when they have large roes they are sure to be oily, and cannot liave taken the salt properly ; they feel softish to the touch, eat stringy, and sometimes decay, and emit a bad smell while cooking; these are unwholesome but if hard and firm, the flesh reddish, the roe well set, and smell sweet, they are good. The only drawback is that they might be too salt, which cannot be avoided, only by cutting the back up, and soaking them in lukewarm water for a few hours, and when taken out well dried on a cloth, previous to their being cooked. But the way to ascertain if a herring is too salt, is to take the fish in the left hand, and pull out a few of the fins from the back, and taste you may thus find out the quality and flavour. This plan is adopted
as
much,
if
l>y
large dealers.
38.
Wipe
yoTir herring
dry
it
well in a cloth
you may
;
make
rub
turn
with
flour, or
dress
it plainly,
or before
it
them
size.
often,
and in
is
five
minutes they
may
be done, according to
Or,
back,
when it
done,
mix a
together,
it
or rub
it
over.
By
opening the
it, it
will do
much
little
vinegar or lemon
fine.
knife, and remove the hack hone of the herring put in about one ounce of butter and chopped parsley, with a slight tint of onion. Fold two herrings together in some paper, so that the fat does not escape broil gently for nearly twenty minutes, and serve. The hutter is to be inclosed between the two herrings. The same plan with a bloater and a fresh herring dressed
it
together
39.
is first-rate.
Fresh Herrings.
These
the head removed, opened on the hack, and the gut taken out. Make three slight incisions on each side, throw some pepper and.
FISH ON GEIDIKOK.
salt over
it,
I9
plain, or witli either
and serve
fine,
Or^ a
also
A fine Finnan haddock should be rubbed with and plain broiled before the fii-e for ten minutes, or more if rather large, keeping it of a yellowish colour, and turning it If very salt, steep it in water for one hour ; beal occasionally. the thick side dow^n, and broil gently.
40. Sacldoclc.
butter,
Another Way. Cut a middling-sized haddock in six pieces, which wash in cold water, take them out, and place them eithef in a bason or pan, then pour over about a quart of boiling water, covering your bason or pan over, so that no steam can escapeafter your haddock has steamed ten minutes, take it out, placf on a dish, rub over with butter, sprinkle a little pepper over, and serve. Sprats and pickled herrings can also be done this way, as likewise smoked salmon; you may vary the flavour of this simple dish, by adding either a little chives, thyme, winter
savory, bayleaf, parsley, eschalots, or onions.
WJiitings, Fresh, should be merely cleaned, cut on each rubbed over wdth salt, pepper, and flour, and broiled for Serve with melted butter, or without, seven to ten minutes. addins: a little vine^rar or lemon in the sauce.
41.
side,
back, keep
-
Mackerel. Cut ofl* the point of the head, open it at the Pepper and salt, and fennel, if handy it open flat. place it between the fish, broil gently for ten minutes, and serve with either melted butter, or parsley and butter, or black butter (See No. 425 a.) sauce.
42.
43.
Cut
as above, open it
one eschalot, or a small onion; add a teaspoonful of vinegar fill the inside witJi this stuffing. Close it again tie it round with a string, broil very gently for twelve to fifteen minutes: it depends on the fire and size.
X)arsley,
;
some
Serve plain.
44.
Prepare
it as
it
vinegar, salt, pepper, and slices of onion, for an hour, "and broil
as betbro.
20
FISH ON ORIDIHOK.
45, Get a tin baking dish, and put into it some cMve'^ hopped fine, some parsley, salt, pepper, a little vinegar, and about one ounce of butter or lard put the mackerel, cut open at the back, and divided in six pieces ; place it on the gridiron, turn the pieces, and in about twenty minutes they are done. Onions may be used. Serve it on the tin dish.
:
46.
It
may
may
Small fresh- water fish, such as tench, pike, perch, barbel, be done like mackerel.
47.
when
nicely
the time
depends on the size and the state of the rubbed with salt, pepper, and flour.
they should be
48. Salmon, Salted, should be cut in small slices, of about one quarter of a pound each, slantways, rubbed with either butter or oil, and broiled gently. Serve plain, or can be broiled, wrapped
up
in oil paper.
tv/elve
iours, rub
them with
them
but very
good thus.
50. Eels, Fresh.
five
inches
in each piece,
and serve
minutes ; b.ave some mix with some butter, and put a They may also be egged very hot.
about a pound of ling, cut it into it with pepper and salt, and put it on the gridiron over a clear fire ; in about Serve it plain, or with a little ten minutes it will be done. melted butter and chopped parsley, lem^on or vinegar, or witk a little piece of the liver chopped up and boiled in the sauce.
Ling, Fresh.
Take
slices
Turbot,
the
brill,
may
be cookec!
same way,
msn
BOILED IN POT,
PAN;,
OK STEW-PAH
21
HOW
WHOLE
all processes of cooking that which appears the simplest 13 Many generally the most neglected, or at best but carelessly done. persons, unacquainted with the subject, would imagine that the boiling
Ik
'
of fish is so simple, that it merely requires to be put on the fire in a saucepan fuU of water, and let simmer or boil until it has lost its To those who are careless and extratransparency, to be fit to eat. vagant, this process may answer very well; they know no better, and do not care to improve ; but to the careful housewife, who wishes to make every penny go as far as possible, by retaining in every article of food she cooks the flavour and succulence it possesses (which is, in fact, the basis of economical and perfect cookery, no matter how simple it may be), the following simple receipt, if carefully followed,
will greatly assist:
us remember that aU large fish, with the skin fire in cold water; if crimped, or cut in slices or pieces, in boiling v/ater; if whole, it must not be covered v/ith more than two or three inches of water, or the skin will crack, and not only spoil the appearance of the fish, but will diminish the gelatine and gluten it contains, and instead of eating firm and fall of
First of
all,
let
flavour, it
^vili
be
soffc
and woolly,
especially if overboiled.
'
<
kinds of fish, to every quart of water put two teaspoonfuls of salt; and if the fish be whole, as soon as it begins to boil, remove the cover on one side, and let simmer gently tiU quite d&ne, calculating the time according to the size and quality, which vary so much, that it would be quite impossible to say, " Take a cod, turbot, 05* salmon, or any other fish weighing so many pounds, and boil so long ;" for according to its quahty, the process of cooking will act upon it, and therefore in all the following receipts we must make use of the word ahouf with regard to time, but by all means do it rather over than under. If large fish, I genersslly try it by gently pushing a wooden skewer through the thickest part ; if it goes ^ in easily, it is done. JIow to ascertain if FisJi, whether l oiled, stewed, or fried, is done, <*~If the bone sticks firm to the flesh, or the flesh to the bone, it is not done ; by the same rule, if quite loose, and the flesli of the fish drops off" the bone, it is overdone, and you lose some of its qualities.
all
For
For fish in slices try the bone with your knife; ?f the flesh comes from it, it is done ; or by placing the point of a knife between tha
22
fiesli
FISH BOILED
IK"
POT. A1^^
it^
OR
STE^Y-PA]f.
it
if
easily.
To
salmon, cod,
have a drainer at the bottom of the kettle, or you will be sure to break your fish to pieces; and as the cottage of a working man is seldom furnished v/ith cooking utensils of this nature, let him cut his large fish in pieces, or boil only small ones ; but as, no doubt, the middle classes of society will buy largely of this our last work, I think I am in duty bound, Eloise, to give the following receipt, which, without the fore* going explanation, might seem to you out of place.
trout, pike, or
like fish, it is requisite to
any such
52.
To
hoil Brill.
Place your
it
fish
m the pan,
letting
it
lay
it
add six pints of cold water, or enough to cover the fish put your pan on the fire, and when it commences to boil, put the lid slightly on one side, and let simmer A brill of about five or six pounds will be done in till done. half an hour after boiling. When sufiiciently cooked, lay hold of both ends of the drainer, lift your fish out, and let it lay on the top of the kettle for two or three minutes, then slip it on jom- dish on a napkin, and garnish round with parsley, if any. If your fish weighs from three to four pounds, it will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes doing on a moderate fire. Anchovy, shrimp, lobster, or lemon sauce, may be used.
it
make
firmer, then
;
53. Tiirhot. Make two incisions with a knife across tho back-it prevents the white skin on the top cracking rub it with the juice of a lemon and salt previous to putting the A tm-bot water over; let it Ifly about tbree inches under water. of seven or eight pounds will take about three quarters of an hour doing, after the water commences boiling one of fifteen Serve with either of the pounds, one hour and thirty minutes. above sauces, or cream sauce No. 424.
;
;
54. Salmon. A salmon weighing ten pounds will take one hour gently simmering when the water commences boiling. Head and shoulders of six pounds, forty minutes ; cod fish of the same weight as the salmon, fifteen minutes less cod's head and shoulders, ten minutes less ; conger eels, hake, ling, same time as cod. The liver and roe of any of the above-named fish are very good when boiled and served with them. If Gurnet, pike, barbel, and carp are boiled the same way.
;
FIb'il
23
dther the turbot, salmon, or cod is crimped, it will take les;j fcime to boil, and should be put in boiling water, timing it iu proportion to the other iish that has been put in cold water.
55.
How
may
teaspoonful of salt
kind
it
add your fish, of whatever pound of any sort of fish will twenty minutes but ascertain if the bone
boiling,
when
from the flesh, as described in the preceding directions. Halibut and sturgeon will take longer than any other fish, plaice less than any. Any fish cut in slices will always eat firmer and better if rubbed, previous to boiling, with the quantity of salt you otherwise put in the water therefore boil the water plain, Mackerel will take adding ih.Q fish and salt at the same time. from fifteen to twenty minutes trout and haddocks of the size of a iiiackerel, a little longer herrings, from twelve to fifteen minutes skate, a trifling time longer ; adding a drop of vinegar in the water to any of the above fish is an improvement.
; ; ; ;
56. New way of h oiling FisJi. The addition of a few herbs and vegetables in the water gives a very nice flavour to the fish. Add, according to taste, a little sliced onions, thjrme, bayleaf, winter savory, carrots, celery, clove, mace, using whichever of these ingredients you can procure ; it greatly improves skate, fresh haddocks, gurnet, &c. Fresh-water fish, which have no, particular flavour, are preferable done thus, with the addition of a little vinegar. Choose whatever sauces you please for any of the above fish, from the series at No. 411.
57. Salt Fish, Cod, Ling, and Cod- Sounds. -^ Sosik two pounds of salt fish for sis hours, if not previously soaked, or according to the cure ; put them in boiling water, in which some parsnips have been previously boiled. Twenty minutes, if the iish is thick, will be sufficient; and serve with egg-sauce Ko. 411. Proceed the same with cod-sounds.
Fresh-water Fish,
[
These
are not
some are
excellent eating,
on the continent.
58. Tench and perch must be well scaled and cleaned, aiid pul mto the pan with a pint of water and a teaspoonful of salt, one onion, slia^d, three sprigs of thyme, bay-leaf, pepper, parsby,
24
FISH
m
;
a wine-glass of vinegar.
size.
one pound boil for half an hour, according to $nj fish -sauce.
59.
Serve with
^els may be done as above, with a little scraped horseand served with parsley and butter. Pike and carp may be boiled in the same way. If no herbs or vegetables, boil in plain salt and v/ater ; but the above is a great improvement.
radish,
A long
may
mode
of cooking
by which all the flavour and succulence of it is preserved. They may be had of all sizes, and at a very trifling expense.
60. Tiesson 1. Scale and clean a sole, dry it well, chop up half an ounce of onions rather small, put in the dish one ounce of either butter, dripping, or oil, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley and onions at the bottom lay the sole over, season with pepper and salt ; mix the remainder of the chopped onions and parsley with some bread crumbs, and cover the sole with them, adding three or four pieces of butter or fat over, and a wineglassful of either wine, ale, or broth, or even water underneath ; put the dish in the oven or before the fire until done a large sole will take about an hour. In case the oven is not hot enough to brown the top, put the shovel in the fire until it is red-hot, and hold over it. Serve in the tin. The oven is far better than the front of a
;
:
fire.
Tlaice
may
slices,
only
it
Whiting are done the same way, but require a sharp oven, Weaver may be done in the same
manner.
Conger Eels.
little
Cut four
slices,
dip each piece into flour, and proceed precisely as for soles.
A
and
62.
JEalce, Sturgeon,
Uaddoch may be done in the same way; and a little stuffing, ITo. 459, may be u.ssd for every one of them, especially cod-livei*
fitisiiing.
63.
fish
may
always
b?
done
iii
A fev7
2*'
tli8
above
flsli,
before
tlie
eats
more
delicate,
more
trouble.
64.
Another
TFc^y. Place
mushrooms instead
65. Sauce.
any of the above fish, in the dish^ add a few herbs or chopped ; and make the following
a pan a quarter of a pound of fiour,
Put
in
moisten with a pint and a half of milk or skim-milk, add three parts of a teaspoonfal of salt, the same of pepper, mix all smooth,
add a
mixed spice, or two cloves, grated nutmeg, one onion set on the fire, stir continually, and boil twenty minutes it must be rather thick take out the onions and cloves, add to the sauce four ounces of butter, mix it well, pour over the lish, and bake as above a little parsley, chopped, and thrown over before sending tc table, improves the appearance, and a little grated cheese thrown over previous to placing in the oven, gives a nice yellow look, and this will be much liked. The sauce can be made and kept for some days without spoiling. This sauce is nice with every kind of white fish. Bread-crumb
little
cut in four,
;
may
The remains
of
may
66. Malihiitf Conger, SaJce, and Ling {receipt for four pounds offish). Season either of the above rather strong with two teaspoonfuls of salt, half the same of pepper, the same of ground ginger, and two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions. Put two ounces of fat in a deep tin pan, lay the fish on it, mix two ounces of fiour with a pint of milk when smooth pour over the fish, bake for an hour, and serve.
67. Plaice
may be done
i
as above.
fiesh cut
to be well done.
Any
may
In
in
tea-
(^
26
69.
file
FISH IN FrvYING-PAK.
Macherel in
'Pie Dish.
back, cut off the tail and head, rub the inside and outside
Jvith salt,
mix
in a bason half a
f int of melted butter, No. 410, add to it a teaspoonful of chopped fennel and parsley, and a tablespoonfal of vinegar ; put the fish
in the dish, pour the sauce over,
it
it;
put
The
roe ma}'*
sauce.
be
the
fish,
or chopped
Balls of cod-liver
70.
may
be added.
Fielded Macherel^ Plain Way. Cut two onions in thin mix with salt and pepper and a little mixed spice or peppercorn ; then have four mackerel ready, with the gills and gut removed, but not cut ; put a little of the onions inside, and rub the outside with them ; and then rub them with flour, put them in the dish, put in the remainder of the onions, add half a pint of vinegar and a gill of water ; bake in a slow oven for one
slices,
hour; use
cold.
They
71. Fresh Herriiigs, Sprats, and Smelts may all be done the same way, only they require less time to bake. Any other kind of fish, if in small pieces, may be done this way, and is excellent in summer with salad. The flavour or the pickling may be improved by adding three cloves, two blades of mace, some peppercorns, a little garlic, and some sweet-herbs, according to taste.
PEIED FISH.
great art in frying fish is, to have it free from grease, and one of the most delicate descriptions of food that can be given to the invalid, and at the same time the most nourishin that state it is
The
j
j
The sudden immersion in the fat solidifies the albumen in tlia siesh of the fish, and renders it easy ol digestion; the coating of breadcrumbs prevents the fat penetrating into the fish, and when eaten by the iBvaiid, the skin should be removed, and only the white flesh
ing.
j I
|)artakQn
o
is
to liasve plenty of fat in the pan, for it is no} If it is kept at a proper degree of heat, in tl.'.? same pan a sole may be fried, and at the samts time an apple iritter ifielther \yill taste of the other, proving that the high degree of heafpj hi fe fat iQ^revents the fiavoiu- of the object immersed in it escaping^ |
v^asteilj
from
it.
FISH IN -FEYING-PAN.
72.
27
Fried
;
Sole.
Put
frying-pan
cut
whilst
it is
oft" the fins and tail, wipe it with a cloth, Qgg it, and cove? with bread-crumbs all over, shake off the loose crumbs, anci press it, and lay the sole in the fat, the white part, or belly, downwards ; the fat must be at a proper heat, which is ascer"
tained
if it
it
into
it; if it hisses, it is
ready
burns,
over-done
if
of a nice colour
it
will do.
Tui-n
A middle-sized
;
Take
off.
place it on a cloth
Dish
it
any fat is on it, it will come on a napkin, on which it hardly ought to show
if
fish
a spot of grease.
i
This receipt is applicable to all kinds of fish should not be fi:ied whole, only the fillets, or
Whitings
may
;
sole,
and
will
The
last
should be frie4
and served
crisp.
conger eels, ling, hake, be fried in fillets, or thin slices ; the sole should be cut down the back bone ; then run the knife under the flesh, close to the bone, and cut it off; thus each sole will make four
73.
soles, plaice, cod, halibut,
all
Large
weaver, should
fillets
or they
in.
may
the bone
Cod should be
do in the same way, cut in pieces one inch wide. filleted lengthways, or in slices. Hake, haddock, and gurnet, the same ; halibut, ling, and conger eel, in very thin slices, that is, not more than half an inch thick. Salt should be sprinkled over them half an hour previous. All these should All fish be egged and bread-crumbed, as described in sole. cooked in this way are excellent cold, as a salad, in summer. Slices should be broken, or cut, for about a pound of fish, and put into a bowl, v/ith two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, four of
74. Plaice
oil,
>
salt,
quarter
ddo. of pepper.
r!
Toss
it
up
well, that
it
may mix;
it is
ver^
cooling,
and makes a light supper. A little fresh salad, as lettuce, endive, &c., makes it still more so. Slices of cooked potatoes, lentils, and haricots, may be introduced.
75.
This is another excellent way of frying fish, wliicli is constaiitly use by the children of Israel, and I cannot recommend it too highly BO much so, that various kinds of fish which many people despise, are excellent cooked by this process; in eating them many persons are deceived, and would suppose them to be the most expensive offish. Theprocess is at once simple, effective, and economical; not that I would recommend it for invalids, as the process imbibes some of the fat, which, however palatable, would not do for the dyspeptic or invalid.
; water in the dish, The water being below, causes the salt to penefor one hour. Take it out and dry it cut out the bone, trate into the fish. Lay the pieces on and the fins off; it is then in two pieces.
;
two pounds of halibut in ona with a little salt, put some but not to cover the fish let it remain thus
the side, and divide them into slices half an inch thick; put into a flying pan, with a quarter of a pound of fat, lard, or
oil) ; then put two ounces of fiour into a which mis with water, to form a smooth Dip the fish in it, that the pieces are batter, not too thick. well covered ^ then have the fat, not too hot, put the pieces in it, and fry till a nice colour, turning them over. When done, take Any kind it out with a slice, let it drain, dish up, and serve.
of sauce that
little salt
is
liked
may
and lemon,
is excellent.
is
pence to fourpence per pound; it containing but little bone It is excellent cold, and can be renders it very economical. eaten with oil, vinegar, and cucumbers, in summer time, and is
Q^g is an improvement in the batter. mentioned as fit for frying, may be Eels are excellent done so the batter fried in this manner. absorbs the oil which is in them. A little salt should Flounders may also be done in this vf ay.
exceedingly cooling.
An
The same
fish as before
cil,
In some Jewish families all this kind of fish is fried in In some families and dipped in batter, as described above. they dip the fish first in flour, and then in q^^, and fry in oil. This plan is superior to that fried in fat or dripping, but nioiy
77.
expenaiie,^
VARIOUS
DISEffiS-
IH
THE IHON
FOT.
29
Many of the above-menuoned families have stated days ca wMcli they fry, or stew their fish, which will keep good several days in summer, and I may almost say, weeks in winter anJ
;
being generally eaten cold, it saves them a deal of cooking. I must say that there is nothing like a hot dinner.
Still,
POT.
the land has a peculiarity in cookery and cooking utensils, which nothing can alter. One of them has a great claim on our gratitude,
which neither time nor place can erase. War, famine, epidemic, revolutions, which have from time to time shaken the foundation of mighty empires, has not caused a wrinkle to appear on his nobk brow even in this miraculous age of discovery, which has created railways, steam, electricity, photography, and by the last powerful
agent we are actually enabled to take the strongest fortifications without bloodshed. Kot even one of the miracles of the nineteenth centmy has affected he is a posterity in himself, and no throne' his noble position one jot ever has been, or ever will be, stronger than his. In winter, when aU nature is desolate, when hoary Erost spreads his white mantle over the myriads of defunct flowers, then this homely king rallies round him his subjects, to entertain, comfort, and feed them, and make them happy, even when nature has ahnost refused This mighty monarch, Eloise, is no to humanity her powerful service. other than the three-legged iron pot, who has done such good service for so many generations, and will continue to do so if properly treated
:
by his subjects. So much for his moral virtues ; but let us see what he has been doing, and if we can make him do anything more, and that in accordance w^ith the enlightenment of the nineteenth century. You v/iH perhaps say, that it is dangeroup to try to make any change in s government so well established. Kot at all ; my object is not to interfere with his noble position, and deprive him of his rights. On the contrary, I only \\hlx to enrich his kingdom, which I am sure no ttensible monarch can object to. Now for the immortal Fot-Uich, All the*'^ rsceipis are for on-^
oii<-*iimnsr
two
erallons.
30
IP.ON POT.
Put
in a piece of six
One hour before wash clean, and cut the roots away of two cabbages, which cut up in foui pieces, and put in the pot with the meat. When done, drain the cabbage, and place round the beef on the dish, and serve. Leave the broth or liquor from the meat on the hre, put in two pounds of split peas, a little pepper and brown
of cold water
;
Bcrvdng,
till
If more salt and pepper is required, add it if, on the contrar}^, it should be too salt, add more water and a pound of potatoes. Or sldm-milk may be added, and about one pound of toasted bread, cut into dice, and put in the soup when serving or half a pound of flour, mixed with a pint Every part of salted beef may be boiled thus, of water. using about four ounces of vegetables to every pound of meat,
to drink with the cold meat.
:
instead of cabbage.
may
be used.
Suet
it.
The
round, flank,
much more
fine, and This receipt if adopted for a farm-house; but two pounds of beef, and the other things in proportion to be used for a small family. Eice
The
ribs,
economical than
when
may
79. Salt
Forh.
Put four
split peas.
pounds of salt pork, either leg, pot with six quarts of water, In one hour add four greens, cut
and boiled in the pot. When done, take them out, and keep warm. Mix half a pound of flour with one pint of water, and Boil for ten minutes, and serve put in the pot, and stir it round. the meat and soup separate, and vegetables round the meat. Pieces of bacon, knuckles of ham, cooked in the same way, ara
very nice, only they will take rather longer boiling. spoonful of pepper may be added.
t^a*
You
iield
will perceive,
my
friend, that I
hero, adding in a
liis
have already opened a largs few lines about twsnty new kingdom. ^
80.
Veal.
The
flesh
31
^
i
'
more the process of roasting, or stewing, than of boiling, making broth, for which purpose it is The only part which is superior to any other kind of meat. usually done so, is the knuckle, and if cooked in the following Get a knuckle of veal and a way, is not an expensive dish Or small knuckle of ham, weighing together about six pounds. in the absence of the ham, or bacon, two pounds of the belly of pork. Put this in the pot, and fill up with six quarts of water and four spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two carrots, cut in dice, two onions and two turnips. Boil gently for three hours, take Plain, out the meat and serve with mashed turnips, or potatoes. The liquor boiled up with a pound or parsley and butter over. Put in and boil of ground rice, mixed in a quart of cold water. When boiled for half an hour, and save for the next day's use. for next day, add any remains of the veal, cut small, and put
:
in
it,
with a
little
milk, if handy.
Whole
rice,
or peas,
may be
used.
Pour Swedish turnips may be boiled with the veal, and eaten with it, mashed up with pepper, salt, and butter. Yege-
t,
tables
may
be omitted
when
scarce.
81. Mutton. The leg, neck, breast, head, and feet, are most often boiled sometimes the shoulder, when not too fat, is boiled, smothered in onions. Whichever joint it is, the pot must be filled with water, to which six teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper have been added. Put in the joint and ten peeled turnips. When either joint is done, take it out, and serve the turnips round. Parsley and butter, capers, or chopped gherkins, mixed with melted butter, may be served with boiled
;
mutton. Save the liquor for the next day, add to it half a pound of Scotch barley and a pound of any vegetables that may be in
Or two pounds of potatoes, sliced, and boiled with the vegetables, make a nice soup. Por every pound of
season.
-nstead of barley,
A ham of about fourteen pounds will take about and ought to be boiled in a three-gallon pot. Put in the ham, and fill up with water skim off the scum as it rises ; if wanted to be eaten cold, allow it to get cold in the pot. If it "is an old ham, it should be soaked for twelve hours previously. Some carrots, turnips, and other vegetables, may
82.
Ham.
j^
four hours,
S:^.
be boiled, with also a bunch of sweet herbs, which will improve the flavour of the ham. If the liquor is used for soup a couple of cow heels may be boiled with it, which may be eaten Eeparately, or cut up in the soup, which should be strained. Or.
fry ten onions, sliced, until nearly brown add to them half a pound of flour, stir well in, then add som.e of the liquor from the ham, until it is rather thick put into a tureen, and pour mortr over it, and serve with slices of bread. Or instead of onions^
; ;
As many cottagers kill their own pigs, and cure the hams and bacon, and often boil only half the ham at a time, the knuckle part should be boiled last, and the yellow fat, if any on it, should
be cut away.
Tons
for
ceiling,
which is, that the continual heat turns the fat and flesh of such a quadruped as dry as a mummy, while, hy the following simple rules, they would keep equally as long without undergoing this antique Egyptian
process.
To prov6
AO
about
six
months ago,
Coriton Park, near Axminster, Devon, when all the neighhourhood was searched to get a couple of home-cured country hams ; however, no such thing was to be found ; every one of them bought were dried to chips. The fat of the first one we operated on, when sawn in two, (for we could not cut it in the ordinary way,) was of a blackish yellow, and the meat of the same colour as rotten wood, only much harder. Being anxious to see the person who had so effectively " preserved'^ this ham, a very natty, clean old woman was brought to me ; and on showing her the bone, and asking her for the receipt, ehe said she did not know how it was done, but her son Thomas did, and she knew he would be glad to give me the receipt, to which proposition I strongly objected, at the same time writing down the following receipt, which she said her son vfould doubtless follow. After you have pickled your ham or bacon for either winter or summer use^ dry the moisture with a. cloth, and hap/^ it in your
33
Htclien for about tliree weeks, or until the outside "begins to crystalSze ; tlien remove it to your dairy, or any other dampish place, for a few days ; then place it in your kitchen agam, and so on, backwards and forwards, three or four times, till perfectly dry, and quite sound; if any part should happen to get yellow and rancid, scrape it off, rubbing the spot with a mixture of salfc, pepper, and flour j but be sure you don^t keep it eighteen months, as it appears the old woman's son did; so that, with all the indulgence of nature, who allows us to preserve meat, by means of pickhng it, for some considerable time, yet common sense tells us, that it will not last for Ham, when v/ell cured by experienced hands, can be kept ever. good for several years. The fault I before mentioned, exists in every county, not exce]3ting Westmoreland and Yorkshire, which two latter, being ham counties, of course the evil does not rmi to so great an extent. I daresay, Eloise, you v/ill fancy this country conversatioi*; rather too long to be pleasant. You may be right, as far as its value as reading for the drawing-room goes, but let me tell you again, that if these simple plans were adopted, more than one hundred thousand tons of meat would be saved throughout the kingdom yearly, and made to feed man rather than wasted as it is at present.
LAMB.
I think I ought not to mention this innocent and playful little animal, but on second consideration, and remembering that King Alfred once sought shelter in a cottage, and it being possible that
from accident, or some other cause, that a cottager might find himself unexpectedly honoured by a guest, to whom lie would like to give a delicacy, which could not be done better in the elaborate kitchens of the most wealthy, than in the old iron pot of the most humble abode. It is rare that lamb is partaken of by the labourer, as he requires more strengthening nourishment for his hard-looking fi-ame, v^hich can digest everything eatable, without the aid of medical science. These delicacies are left to those who would give a great deal if they could possess the good appetite and the organic mastication of a labouring man.
83. Boiled Leg of Lamb. ^Put six quarts of water into the pot, with six teaspoonfuls of salt ; when boiling put in tha lamb, boil
remove the scum as it rises ; serve it with ; plain melted butter, or parsley and butter, or caper sauce ; boiled turnips or spinach. Th Vroth may be made into soup the
in pot ten
34
boil
them
till
tlte
rabbit,
simmering slowly
for one
horn.-, if
large: dish it up, keeping it warm; take out the onions, chop them, and put into a pan or the pot with two ounces of butter,
mix
all w^ell to
form
a puree, add a pint of milk, boil twenty minutes, stirring now and then; pour over the rabbit and serve ; little pieces of pickleO
it is
an improvement.
as above.
Our Christmas
Dinner Small
Tiirlcey,
Pii
one of pepper, have the turkey ready stuffed, as No. 456 ; wheA in the turkey, and four pieces of salt
pork or bacon, of about half a pound each, or whole, if you prefer it; also add half a pound of onions, one of white
peppercorns, a bunch of sweet herbs; boil slowly hour and a half, mix three ounces of flour with two ounces of butter ; melt it in a small pan, add a pint of the liquor from the pot, and half a pint of milk, the onions and celery taken out of the pot, and cut up and added to it; boil for twenty minutes, until it is thickish serve the turkey on a dish, ihe bacon separate, and pour the sauce over the bird. A turkey done in this way is delicious. With the liquor, in which you may add a little colom-ing, a vermicelli, rice, or clear vegetable soup can be made ; skim off the fat, and serve. The above with a plum pudding boiled the day before, and rewarmed in boiling water in the pot whilst eating the soup and turkey, and the addition of potatoes, baked in the embers, imder the grate, is a very excellent dinner, and can all be dona
celer}^,
six
for one
Vyith
may
A cheap
Tripe Dinner.
tripe,
peel eight
onions, and ten large potatoes, for every four pounds of the
good meat
lay some of the potatoes at the bottom of the pot, season with sal^
tripe, then onions and potatoes. then mix a quarter of a pound of floar vvdtb throe quarts of water; mix smooth, and boil gently for tvv'o hours;.
until all
in
;;
35
of
and
and sixpence.
Calve s
Head and
Feet.
If
London
in
the
two of pepper, four onions, parsley, and a little thyme put in six quarts of water, in which mix one quarter of a pound of flour ; being placed, set it to boil gently, skim it occasionally, boil three hours just before serving, add a wineglass of vinegar serve with parsley and butter, alone, or with the brains, cleaned and boiled in it sharp sauce, No. 420. The feet may be boiled in the same way. The liquor makes an excellent soup for the next day, either thick or thin, and with
;
mock
turtle.
88. Slieep^s
the same as calf's head, and put in pot, with halfa pound of pearl
two carrots, four and four quarts of water; boil for about two hom-s, or until tender, and serve. Eour feet added to it improve the broth. The heads when cooked may be egged and bread-crumbed over, and then put in the oven to brown fcr fifteen to twenty minutes. Eat it either plain or with sharp sauce. Calves' head is very good done the
barley, four spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper,
onions,
same.
89.
Curry
FisJi.
Put
some
pound of fat or dripping, three tablespoonfuls one tablespoonful of sugar, and fry for fifteen minutes then pour in three quarts of water and One pound of rice ; boil till tender ; add one tablespoonful of curry-powder, mixed in a
quarter of a
of
salt,
little
water cut up six pounds of cheap fish the size of an q^^ add to the abov, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes, according to the kind of fish. If salt fish is used, omit the salt. If no herbs, do without, but always use what you can gQt,
; ;
90.
Savory Mice.
Take
six
3b
VARIOUS DISHES
salt,
'Tim
black
Pot.
tablespoonfuls of
if any.
a buncli of tliyme, Layleaf, and savoi^, it into an eartlien pan, remove the
bones; tlie fat will do for puddings; or put the fat or two ounces of dripping into the pot, with two onions cut thin, half 3
pound of
two
tea-
put it on the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring it continually ; add half a pound of oatmeal, and mix well then pour over the stock that has come from the bones. Add one pound of rice previously washed ; boil till tender, and This will be found both cheap and nutritious. serve.
spoonfuls of sugar
;
91. I^ice
Panada,-'Boil
water
add one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, and two tableMix with some cold water one pound of flour spoonfuls of salt.
;
or oatmeal, so that
it
stir in
three teaspoonfuls
twenty minutes,
and
serve.
A
is
may
be
added.
food,
Should
This will
cold.
make
and
a quarter of a pound of fat bacon^ put it in the pot with two onions, sliced, or leeks : fry for ten minutes ; keep stirring ; then add one and a quarter pound of split peas, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of Boil till it becomes a puree, sugar, and one gallon of water. or pulp ; then add sufficient oatmeal or flour to make it very thick; simmer twenty minutes ; keep stirring it, and serve. Indian meal may be used, but it must be soaked ; the husk, which floats, removed, boiled for two hours, and. then added to If there are no onions, use some sweet herbs. it.
92.
Feas Fanada.'Cut
;
Tills may he made sweet hy omitting the bacon, and using a quarter of a pound of treacle, and when cold, may be cut to pieces, and given to children as food.
93.
Cheese Stirabout,
throw in three table tablespoonsful of salt when boiling, throw in by degrees some Indian meal, the quantity depends on the quality on an average, if the v^ater is soft, one pound to every two quarts that would be four pounds. When well stirred, remove the husk with a spoon, which floats on the top. Then throw in one poun^^ of strong cheese, broken in pieces, or grated
;
;
ITearly
fill
YAKIOUS DISHES
THE BLACK
POT.
37
tin,
Boil for twenty minutes, and serve. Or, put it on a greasy Laldngthrow some more cheese on tlie top, put in the oven for
Or, allov/
it
and
fry,
94. Indian Meal FouUenta.-'Bo^ the meal as above (it must be very thick), without the cheese mind that it is stirred up a great deal, or it will catch to the bottom of the pot pour some into a baking-dish well greased cut some beef or pork, sausages, saveloys, or black puddings, into slices, and place them on it. Cover this over with some more meal from the pot
;
;
bake for twenty minutes, and serve. This is an excellent and cheap
attention of all classes,
it is fit for
dish,
now
the tables of the most wealthy, if a strong gravy is This may be made sweet with poured over it when served.
*?ither
jam,
treacle, or
brown sugar.
For the above proportion, mince about 95. Another Way. two pounds of meat, as No. 156, or liver. Mix well, then let cut and fry anyhow you like ; of course omit it get cold saveloys and black-puddings vfhen meat is used.
;
In France,
people eat
it,
and many
If it is in use in cooking in one The proverb says, country, why should we not give it a trial. '* what is good for the goose is good for the gander," therefore what is good for our neighbours and allies cannot possibly be bad for us. An ox in France is uncommonly like an English one, and these quadrupeds are equally as particular in their selection of food as ours ; and if the calves^ pigs', sheep's, and lambs' liver is fit for the tables of the wealthy, why should not that of the ox be deemed good
stewed.
for
human
is
food.
our duty, Eloise, in this work, to bring every vv'holesome iiind of cheap food to the notice of the poor, so that with a little exertion, they may live, and live well, vvith the few pence they earn, instead ol living badly at times, and most extravagantly at others, and not to allow nourishing food to be wasted, as it is at present. In many parts, and even in Ireland, during the year of the famine, those who were starving would not partake of ox-liver. These are bought up in that country, put into casks, with salt, sent over to a Bea-port in England ; they are then subjected to a cold pressure, by Which the liquid is extracted, which is used for adulterating an
It
38
Stewed Ox Seart and Liver. /ash tlie heart well; few onions and sage, and mix with it a teaspoon' ful of salt, and a quarter of pepper. Put it in the heart, and lay it in the pan with the top part downwards. Cut one pound of suet in quarter of a pound pieces also two pounds of ox liver, and a little bacon, if handy. Season with three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four or five onions, three pounds of potatoes, and pour over three quarts of water. Place it in the oven for three hoars, and it is done. In this dish, dried pulse of any kind, previously soaked, may
chop
a
;
be used with advantage, such as the white harico bean, the dried
lentil
bean
all
;
of which
it is
may
be had in the
and
to be regretted that
much
as the potato,
and
is
con-
may
be used.
are a good article for a tradesman to keep in stock, as do not deteriorate, like the potato, and only require to bo known, to be equally as much esteemed as that root.
tlicy
They
may
also he done in
tlie
haJcing-pa7i.)
and
shall call it
Tot an Feu, or French Soup. 97. Put a gaUon of water in the pot, put four pounds of the buttock of beef, or shin, or five pounds of the thick part of the leg, Hiree teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four onions, four leeks cut in pieces, two carrots, and two good-sized turnips, three cloves, one burnt onion, or three spoonfuls of colouring ; set it on the fire ; when Beginning to scum, skim it, and place the pot on one side of the fire. Add now and then a drop of cold watei,; it wiU make it clear. Boil Bread sliced, put into the tureen, and pour the broth, Jbiir hours.
^ith some of the vegetables, ov^r remainini? vegetables roun^it
;
serve the
meat
senaratft.
and the
39
If tliis simple receipt is well attended to^ yon will find it a very good soup and bouilli. If yoii rim short of any of the vegetables, make it good with others. If no burnt onions or colourings the soup will be white, instead of a sherry colour ; but still it will be good. In France they always put in half a pound of ox-liver to every four pounds of meat. I am sure they are too good judges, over the water, to spoil their soup ; in fact, there the ox-liver costs as much as the therefore it is not with a view oi meat sixpence per pound saving, but to make it better.
97 a. French
of a
Mag out
:
of Mutton.
quarter
and cut twenty small tui'nips, or ten large ones, into pieces the size of a walnut ; ^\xt them into the fat, and fry until brownish. Take them out, then put into the fat a quarter of a pound of flour stir round until brown. You have prepared four pounds of scrag of mutton, cut in small pieces ; put them in, and stir round ; then add enough When the mutton water to cover the meat ; stir until boiling. is nearly done, which you will find by trying it witli a fork, add the turnips ; season with three teaspooniuls of salt, one of pepper, the same of brown sugar, and a littlo bit of scraped garlic, if handy. Any part of mutton may be used. Eagout of veal or Iamb may be done in this manner.
pound of dripping
when
hot, peel
The following
saucepan.
receipts to be
98. Stetved Meh.-^Vui into a saucepan a teaspoonful of chopped onions, half a pint of melted butter, No. 410, one teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, oiie of vinegar, and one teaspoonful of colouring. Cut up one pound of eels in pieces two inches long, rub them in a little flour and salt, put them in the pan, and stew for half an hour, and serve witli some toasted bread round. little ale or wine may be used instead of vinegar, and the sauce should be thick.
99.
Stewed Eels.
No.
2.
flour,
and partly fry them in fat a few minutes, and stew tliem as above,
lind serve witli toast.
"No. 3. Cut up one pound, as put them in the pan with half a pint of milk and threequarters of a teaspoonful of salt, h?lf of pepper, half an onion, in slices, and some sprigs of parsley. Stew gently for twenty minutes ; mix one ounce of butter with half an ounce of fiouTi
before
40
put in your stewpan in small pieces, stir round gently, boil fof ^ve minutes, or longer, if large, and serve. The juice of a lemon, or a little vinegar, is an improvement. Lampreys and weaver may be done the same.
101. Cod's Hard Boe. Tie a cod's roe in a cloth, place in a pan two quarts of water and tvf o teaspoonfuls of salt put in the roe, boil gently for one hour, take it out, cut off as much as you require, put it in the dish, pour over parsley and butter, and Or egg sauce, or plain, with a little butter and pepper. serve. The remainder, when cold, may be cut into slices and semi;
fried, as fish.
and
Frill.
E'othing
is
more
de-
than this dish. Boil thirty minutes in boiling salt and Dish it up, pour thick Q^g sauce over, or fennel sauce, water. or black butter, No. 425a. The first-mentioned, if salted, F>''^-'.t
be well soaked.
Truly, my dear Eloise, I cannot but return you my very beat thanks for the incessant inquiries you make as to the state of my
health.
You blame me in your last letter for having visited the small town Qf Castleford, as also the beautiful little village of Methway, while the cholera was raging in those places. Allow me to impress upon your mind that, first of all, I have no personal fear of the epidemic, and that I take a deal of interest in endeavouring to ascertain the cause, or partly so, of such an awful visitation, as my letter of the 25th of March, which has appeared in the public press, will partly explain the cause of this calamity.* In that letter I ought to have included Leeds, Hull, and Bradford, those immense towns of thick fog, v/ealth, manufacturers, charming habitations, palaces, bad river, which, for want of drainage, and real black not sea, but
proper drainage, if not attended to, will always subject those places to such epidemics. The working classes of the commercial districts of Yorkshire earn very good wages, though, at the same time, they work very hard; their ignorance in the science of cooking, is deplorable, and, without "Roasting, Eloise, I must say that I have been of some service to inese same people, in improving the condition of their homes, as three parts of the wives of this hard-working class are utterly devoid of -any inovvdedge of domestic economy. Cookery to them is almost un&aov72J, I
but I must say they are wilHng to learn, and I hope this
YABIOtJS DISHES IN
THE IRON
SAU0E1PAN.
41
will be tlie means of terminating that which I have so success* begun. Respecting my visiting prisons, hospitals, lunatic asylums, workhouses ; also the interior of mines, coalpits, &c. &c. ; and though I must admit that those localities do not show the brightest part of the mirror of life, still, you must not fancy that these people are all unhappy; on the contrary, they are as contented as I am, and not a day passes but what I teach them something in my way, at th/* same time learning many little things irorn them, and I think you will 07n that my correspondence partakes more of a jovial than a morose nature. Such is my opinion of that large class of society, termed the miUion, after nearly twelve months stay among them, throughout the united queendom.
work
fiiUy
OIL.
But now to a very important culinary, and I think medical discovery, which I owe to my persevering visits to various public charities in the towns through which I passed. This happened at Hull, about three months ago, from which town, if you recollect, I forwarded you the drawing of the Station Hotel, where I was staying I call it the Monument Hotel, being so large and beautiful. But to come back to the question ; one of the proprietors, Mr. Jordan, on my asldng if I could visit the infirmary, kindly proposed to conduct me there, and introduce me to the governor, which was done to my entire satisfaction I and I must say that the sick are not better attended to in any similar estabhshment I have visited in the country. Being aware of the immense quantity of cod-li/er oil taken by delicate persons, now-a-days, and the great benefit derived from its
use, I asked the medical ofScer present his opinion of its efficacy.
"Nothing can be
said he, "
"in many
cases.
But,"
being of such an unpleasant taste, more especially children, and as we in this establishment use the second quality, from motives of economy, it is doubly unpleasant." I myself tasted some, and must say that I found it anything but
patients cannot take
relishing.
many
After bidding adieu to the doctor, I and my host left, and while returning to my hotel, T thought that something could be done tn ilter the present unpleasant way of administermg it. Accordingly, Upon reaching home, I sent for the following:
103.
I
One pound
pounds of nice floury potatoes, it over the potatoes, and then liver fall on the potatoes; I With a knife, to extract the
of fresh cod-liver ; I then peeled and steamed two then cut the liver in four pieces, placed
steamed them, letting the oil from the then made some incisions in the liver remaining oil, afterwards dishing |i
42
the
IllON
SAUCEPAH.
little
gauce.
v/itli
The following
fj^ith
is another way of extracting the the aid of that abundant article, rice.
of a cod's liver,
104. I^ice
quarts of water.
i^ater
;
Boil half a pound of rice in two nearly done, remove three parts of the then put over your rice a pound of cod's liver, cut in
When
large dice.
Put the saucepan in a slow oven for about thirty minutes, by which time it will be nicely cooked. Then take the liver out, which serve as above directed. Stir the rice with a
;
and serve it if allowed by a medical man, add a little salt and pepper. If no oven, cook the liver and rice on a very slow fii-e, for otherwise it would burn, and be unwholesome as food. Of course you can easily see what a blessing such diet as this must be to a person incapable of taking the oil by itself, as, by mixing it with the food, it entirely loses that rancid quality for which it is proverbial.
fork,
105. Tajpioca
tapioca
till
drain
it
in a cullender,
back in the pan ; season with a. little salt and pepper, add half a pint of milk, put over one pound of fresh cod liver, cut in eight pieces. Set your pan near the fire to simmer slowly for half an hour, or a little more, till yom^ liver is quite cooked. Press on it with a spoon, so as to get as much oil into the tapioca as possible. After taking away the liver, mix the tapioca. If too thick, add a little milk, then boil it a few If minutes ; stir round, add a little salt and pepper, and serve. you have a slow oven, use it in preference to the fire; but if you are without an oven, here is another good way of cooking it
then put
it
106.
/)ut
in a largish
pan ; then
let it
simmer till quite done. It will take about an hour. By adopting this plan, all fear of burning is obviated ; afterwards remove the liver, which serve as at No. 103.
107. Sago, or semolina,
may
adding an Q^g,
it
will
make
a delicate pudding
it
or
by
cutting
may add
it
m a little more
milk to make
%'ATII0U3
eggs, well beaten,
43
and mix putting it in a basin, previously weU simmer in a stewpan for half an hour, ot till set then turn it out on a dish sauce with a little plain melted butter, anchovy, or parsley and butter. A little stringent food, such as the above, will be found very refreshing, even to persons in good health.
outtered
;
then
let it
be also turned to good account ; and I do not having taken the liver out, and adding four teaspoonfuls of sugar, two eggs, one ounce of butter, and a little lemon peel, it would not make a very good sweet pudding. Pour over it, when done, a little melted butter with a spoonful oa sugar, some lemon juice, or wine; or treacle, for children.
108. Eice
see
may
why,
after
109.
cod's liver
and
roe^
put the eggs in a basin, pour water over them, mashing them with your hand, to separate them, throwing away the water add half a pound of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper ; let them soak all night, afterwards washing them well in two or three waters, leaving about a gill at the bottom ; then put about two pounds of cod liver over it, cut in six or eight pieces, putting the stewpan either on a very slow fire, or in an oven, for one hour then take out the liver, which serve as usual. Add about a gill of melted butter in the roe, when it will be ready.
; ;
any one in health four hard-boiled eggs, chopped, make a pudding of it pour it in, steam it in water till well set, then turn it out, and sauce over with any fish sauce you like. The hard roe of any fish may be dressed like this, especially the roe of sturgeons.
110.
for
Or
may
Yon
conscience.
44
French coolvery, means any article, oj game, or poultry, so surrounded by vegetables, tliat even a vegetarian would be deceived with its appearance, v/hile sitting at dinner^ and would not find out his mistake until helped with soma
Ciirtlmsian, or Chartreuse, in
food, such as meat,
of the dishes,
111. 1st
Lesson.1 in
;
winter,
put on im an iron pot, or a three-legged black pot put in about three quarts of water; v/hen boiling, add your cab"bage, boil them for ten minutes, or a little longer, then drain them in a cullender or cloth, pressing out the water cut away the stalk from each piece, then chop your cabbage, though not too fine, letting it weigh about two pounds when thus prepared, which will be our proportion of vegetable to one pound of meat previous to chopping them upon the board, season with one teaspoonful of salt, that is, if salt meat be used two ditto if the meat be fresh one teaspoonful of pepper at all times. Suppose we select for this, our first lesson, three middlingsized pigs' tongues. You have put them to boil with your cabbage, then cut them through lengthways, then place at the bottom of your pan about an inch deep of cabbage, and half an inch round the inside of the pan, placing your meat in the centre, thus making the meat invisible to the eye when turned out of the pot ; when filled, add a quarter of a pound of butter
fire either
;
; ;
for
two hours
and
serve.
113,
basins,
in
pudding.
over a cover of pudding-paste (see E'o. 319) pies or puddings, ma,king several small holes in
it, piit
fix
over as for
tlie paste,
and
in.
When done,
remove the
paste,
TAlklOUS BISHES IH
THE IROB
SAUEFA>T.
already laid on
45
tlie
tlie paste,
red but requires double the quantity of vinegar, and more pepper; proceed the same; tliey require boiling in, water about thirty minutes, if at all large^ and. rather
as above described;
cabbage
eld, as
^c^
113.
^> j/ 'Jrjy'^y-^ ^^14 /^i/ t^ ^f ^ ie^^o^^.- Having given you the base j^
,
^:.-
:,
on animal food, I
vfill
now
'^
made with
'
..
viz.,
^
cheek, pickled
may
use pig's
beefi, previously boiled and cut any part of fresh meat previously roasted, any remains of poultry or game may be done the same by cutting them in slices ; if, however, they have not been previously cooked, they will take two hours instead of one. Pigeons, partridges, and
all
may
This will give you an idea of the various w^ays in which this
dish can be made, as far as animal food goes.
The following
vegetarians.
will, \>j
\^EGETABLE PUDDING,
114. Mil and General Lesson for the Use of the Vegetarian, -You must observe, Eloise, that the above receipts are ail made with cabbage only. I have made them so, because, while
travelling last winter, I found that every cottager grew cabbage, while no other vegetable was to be seen in his garden but now that summer is here, I will give you the receipts in the way the
;
monks used
or
to
make them; and, mind, they were all good They always had a foundation of cabbage
one3
pound of
tben they
the
of the above
receipt
or
onions; boil
till
tender
chop
45
it
with your cabbage ; season, and proceed as witli cabbage only. may also be boiled and mixed out not chopped ; a little sugar is an improvement to vegetables,as it varies the flavour ; use any aromatic herbs and spice you choose, but always in proportion. You may also, for a change, pour either a little white or brown sauce over (see sauces), but observe that the vegetables must always be kept firm enough to turn out as a pudding either serve in a pan: or, to save trouble, turn the whole into a tureen, or in a large dish, that is, if for a large family, but the proper way is as first described. In fact, there is no end to the Higenuity which may be displayed in the variation of this dish j and to the cottager, with his sm^all plot of garden-ground, wherein he can produce sufficient vegetables for his family, it is one of great economy, besides being exceedingly conducive to
Sprue-grass, cut small, or peas,
health at
all
times.
m COOKING.
cheeks may be bought at present, cut from the bone, and very about twopence-lialfpenny to threepence per pound, in London. It is the most gelatinous food which the ox produces, and contains a large amount of nourishment, as I have already mentioned The only drawback there is to it is the length of time it to you. requires to cook, and the general way in which it is done, being in many cases prejudicial to its use. Frequently on my visits to the abodeg of the poor, while in London last winter, I have often seen this article of food completely spoiled. On one occasion, I asked an old lady how " But, my dear she cooked it. " Sure enough," said she, " by fire." woman," I inquired, " how long do you cook it ?" " Ah !" sli@
" sometimes as long as an hour, and boiling like the very deuce all the time, till the water will not stand it any longer." " And pray," I asked, " what do you do with the water ?" " Faitli, there is no water left, but only black muck at the bottom of the pot, which I throw away," was her reply. Therefore I am always of the same opinion, dearest Eloise, as regards our long taEj:ed of scheme of opening a national school to teach the poor liow to cook their food, and make the most of it Some of the money spent on our new palace prisons would be muck better employed for this purpose, and would ultimately decrease the
replied,
(parish rates.
But
dame.
Ae2M.A&'KB
47
" No, come and teach hor how to cook, properly, an ox cheek. faith,^^ said she, " I have no money to throw awa}'-, not even enough Sangmne as I always am upon my flivourite to buy another/'
theme, I offered to bring one with me, as a present, the following day, and gave her sixpence to buy some sand to clean her iron pot, which I found done on my arrival the following day; she having I then also purchased two pennyworth of coals out of the money. produced the ox cheek, and put it into the pot vdth four quarts of cold
salt, and some leaves of celery, which were given to her by a neighbouring greengrocer. Her fire was made up, and the pot was placed on it, until boiling, and then removed to the side of it, and skimmed. There I left it, and went round to pay my other visits. At the end of three hours I returned, and, she having a large basin in the room, I put some crusts of bread in it, and poured the liquid from the pot into it, and the meat I placed on a dish, and sat down with the old dame, serving the soup out into cups with a beer jug, having nothing better, and, to her great surprise, cut the cheek easily with a very bad knife, it being so tender. After tasting it, and finding it very good, she said she would show her neighbours how to do it. I told her that, if she would do so, I would give her more like receipts, when she exclaimed, " Bless you, ma'am, do ; I will do them as v/ell as you, now I have seen you do it." In anticipation of sendiug them to her the next day, I v/as " Lor% ma'am," said she, about to retire, wishing her goodbye. " you would not go without taking a drop of the * crature.' " To my
articles
astonishment, a small bottle was brought out of her pocket, and ofi'ered to me. From its strange smell, I was induced to taste it, and I feel
confident, if it had been analyzed by the " Lancet," it would have proved to be real hlue ruin, composed, as it was, of a mixture of
wtriol, &c.
This opened to me the secret of the em^aciated loolcs of the thousands of the inhabitants of these back alleys, and I could then account for the remainder of my change out of the sixpence. I, however, sent her the following receipts, of course omitting her favourite seasoning gin.
Having sent her the receipts, as promised, on reconsideration, it occurred to me that the old lady might not be able to read. I was not mistaken, for on calling upon her, I found six elderly matrons
and an old man holding council together, and trying to make out The latter was just sending for his grandson, who, he ?aid, was a scholar, having been three months at a Sunday-school. My arrival set all to rights, at the same time it frightened three of ths council away ; but I begged the others to stop; and hear the rccsipts read, which ^hev acfordincly did, afterwards givincf spvei^al copic?the writing.
48
or lialfa large
;
and one of pepper put it into the iron pot, v/ith four quarts of cold water set it on the fire to "boil; remove it then to the side, and simmer gently iox three hours after it begins to boil. Skim off the fat, which will do for
;
puddings, and, at the expiration of the time, nearly three quarts f very strong gravy, in addition to the meat properly done and
tender, will be found in the pot. A gill of colouring is an improvement to the look of the broth. A head of celery, or some leaves of it, or onions, &c., may be added in boiling. Put the head on a dish, and serve the soup separately, with bread in it.
116.
may be
used.
2nd Lesson.- Or any small quantity of mixed vegetables They should all be cut into dice, and not peeled, but
rice,
well cleaned, with the exception of the dried skin of the onion.
One pound of
added,
is
at the
cost of twopence-halfpenny,
when
a great improvement ; or half-a-pint of split peas, or barley, or a pint of white haricot beans, or a pint of Indian meal soaked the over-night, or a little flour to make the gravy or It may be varied in several ways ; but the chief broth thick.
point
is,
may
ascertain
till
tender,
which you
if it sticks to it, it is
Sheep and lamb's head may be done the not sufficiently done. same way, but will only take one quarter ol the time ; season
accordingly.
This receipt
is
applicable to
Your
corner.
The following scene was witnessed by those two faithful servants, the other afternoon, in a domestic establishment, where the sly dog -of a gridiron often laughs between its bars at the overworked frying-
is employed by a railway contractor, and a man what the world calls middling well ofi", and who has risen by own exa^iiions and abilities from a mo?^ humble position, arrives
is
MEAT OK GRIDIROK:
49
home, and asks liis wife wbat he can have for dinner, the hour of her " What would dinner, and tliat of the cliildren, having long past. yon like to have, my dear ?'' w^as her question. " Anything you " Let's see why we have nothing, but I can get you a have." mutton chop, or steak." " Can I have nothing else ; I am tired of " Why, my dear, what can be better than a diops and steaks." " Well, let me have a steak." " You had that ehop or a steak ?"
!
I always make' it have been reading, not iong since, a medical work on diseases of the skin, written by Dr. Erasmus Wilson, in which he says that nothing is so wholesome as a change of food, since which time I have made a point of varying " Very well, Dur bill of fare, as they call it in that useful work."
yesterday,
my
dear
now,
let
me
and
as I
send for two chops." In about twenty minutes the servant returns, saying she could get no chops, but has got a nice piece of steak.
^Yery
well.
That
will
do as
w^ell,
will
it
not,
my
dear?" to
" Yes ; but how long reading a periodical." " ISTot a minute, my will you keep me here before it is done ?" love. Now, Jane, do that well on the gridiron." Jane descends, but quickly returns, saying, *' Please, ma'am, the fire is not fit " Well, fry it," is her answer. for broiling." The husband, who hears it, exclaims, " Drat the frying-pan, it is always so greasy." Then, my dear, how would you like to have it." " Not at all," was his reply, throwing down the paper, and exclaiming, " Bother the place, there is no getting any victuals properly cooked here. I must go to the cook-shop and have it." He seizes his hat, and slamming the door, makes his exit in a passion. The mistress blames Jane, and begins to beat the child for having 3ipset the milk on the toast. Jane kicl^s the cat, and gives warning. The night comes. There are no candles in the house. Jane is sent out for them, but does not return in proper time. The husband arrives, and finds all in darkness. They quarrel, and swear they must separate in order to " live comfortably together/' Jane comes liome, and is ordered to pack up her boxes, in order to be off the first thing in the morning, by which time, however, their tempers have had time to cool, and Jane is accordingly reinstated in her former position.
her husband,
who
is
''^
Moral (not on fable, but on truth) A man disappointed in something to eat, consoles himself with something to drink. If he has Qo stimulus in w^iolesome food, he will have it in pernicious spirit.
:
He
quarrelsome, scolds his wife, beats his children, frequents the is called a bad husband. It is not lltogether his fault, the dinner was not eatable, and ho must have
is
lomething to support him, which he foolishly finds in epiiits ^ and thus, by the want of attention on the part of tlie wife, is made what he is. lu no country in the world do the annals of police courts show such
50
MEAT ON GRIDIRON.
scenes as are dally noticed in the public journals of London, whlc/? the increase of punishment by a modern law has not yet succeeded in
putting down. Before proceeding with the following receipt, it is advisable to read the introduction of semi-fried steaks, and steaks in pan, page 58, as it would be tautology to repeat it here.
Rump
Stealc.
Previous
it
remember, in the morning, that you are obliged to dine that very identical day, and no doubt you decide upon having a steak for dinner, which is a very good thing, when the meat is good and well cooked, also fix the hour you intend to dine, and half an hour previous stir up the fire, clear away the ashes^ stir all dead cinders from the bottom, and in a few minutes you will have a clear fire, fit for the use of the gridiron and every article you may submit to that process of cookery stands a
;
Lesson. 'Fo^ first quality of steak, the meat ought hung, and if cut nicely off the rump of a Scotch beast will weigh from a pound and a quarter to a pound and a half, if it should be that is, being three-quarters of an inch thick cut rather thicker in one part than another, beat it even with a chopper; if of the above thickness, it should be placed about if thicker, six inches taking it as five inches above the fire an invariable rule, that the thicker the steak, the further in The extra piece of fat proportion it must be from the fire. rv^hich accompanies it should be put on a little after the steak, Whilst doing, throw over some or it will be too much done. pepper and salt, and turn it the moment the fat begins to drop the motive of constantly turning the steak is to keep the gravy Never put a fork into it to turn it, but use a pair of tongs in. but if you have not any, place the fork in the fat and turn it When the steak is done, it will feel firm under the pressure Qi
117. First
to be well
;
; ;
the finger.
i
MEAT ON
Secoyid Lesson.
GRIDIllOX.
it is
61
Sometime^
In such
is
done{
tiien the
to,
Mended
If carefully gravy will not be pressed out. this plan is as good as the other, but otherwise, it
for a nice tender
rump
steak, three-quarters
from twelve to
fifteen
minutes.
it,
If turned four
if served
and
imme-
on a hot dish (not too hot, to dry up the gravy), it will eat tender and juicy, and be fit for a member of the Eump Steak
Club.
bit of butter
;
on the
dish,
all
these should
who
partakes of
it
it is
with salt and Every pound of steak will require one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, and a half of pepper. But if required flavoured and seasoned to satisfy a blase
cook to send
plainly, but properly seasoned
appetite,
up
118.
Rump
mix
Steah with
it
jEscJialot.
Chop
up one eschalot
half of pepper,
with a teaspoonful of salt and rub the steak all over with it, and press it in place it over the fire as the above, cook and required so strong, rub only the gridiron and
very
fine,
eschalot."^'
with a knife
serve.
If not
Steah with Eschalot Butter. Cut up two eschalots and mix it with half an ounce of butter, which spread over the under part of the steak when dishing up.
very
fine,
Bump
Rump
steak
as
is
Steah
ivith
Maitre
it
d' Hotel
Butter.
When
your
No. 426.
Devilled Steah.
Mix in a
plate
two teaspoonfuls of
salt, halt
* If eschalot is required to be served up in the dish, or on separate plate, chop them up fine, as at No. 449, and serve t^yo teaspoonsful to eycjry pound of steak,.
52
Df cayenne,
h^AT ON
GRIBlHOir.
tlie
skak on
it,
ttie
firei
mixture on
side.
and dredga
with flour
Broil as above.
Wakefield
8tealc.
thick, score it
on each
two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon, a tablespoonful of Soyer's relish, two tablespoonfuls of
side, crossv^rays.
six
hours; turn
it
now and
This seasoning
it
is
called marinade.
Previous to broiling,
dredge
lightly with
At Wakefield they
WarncMe
it
sauce.
Some raw
served round
renders
a dish
fit
dish proves that the inhabitants of Wakefield have not lost the
culinary reputation they formerly possessed, and which they
first
when
and allowed them to quarter Beef skirt and other pieces may be all done in the same way, allowing time to cook according to the quality and hardness of the pieces you dress. and her
suite
came
to reside there,
120.
Mutton
ChojosJ^^
These may
many
cases
all
when preferred. Peel a clove of garlick, put it on the end of a fork, and rub both sides of the chop lightly with it. Chopped mushrooms are very good with broiled chops. Any fleshy part of tlio sheep may be broiled the same, way.
eschalot,
121. Mutton Chop,In my opinion, two chops out of a fine South Down, well hung, cut three quarters of an inch thick, leaving half an inch of fat round them, and broiled over a clear fire for ten minutes, turned four times, sprinkled with salt and pepper, served on a hot plate, one at a time, wi^h a nice mealypotato, is as good, as wholesome, and nutritious a dinner as can One and a half teaspoonful of salt and a half be partaken of. of pepper to a pound of chops, is a good seasoning.
* For
descriptiosi of chops ee
SSEAI?
OK GEIDIROK.
53
122.
Ptahi Veal
A veal
I
it
chop,
am
oi
fire is
an act of Yandalism, Of course, if there is no time to do ways, it must be done so but that so delicate a kind
;
other
o food
it,
fierce
is
wrapped up in a The sheet sheet of buttered paper, with pepper and salt on it. of paper ought to be large, thick foolscap ; the chop laid on one half, the other brought over, and the edges folded over so that no gravy escapes. They should be placed eight inches above the fire, and broiled for at least twenty minutes, and served in the A little chopped mushroom or parsley may be paper very hot. placed in the paper, and improves the flavour.
of.
It ought to be
123.
Veal Cutlet.
fillet, v/ill
some bacon.
The same
but both veal and bacon wrapped up in paper, and broiled as above, is very excellent j a little chopped chives, eschalots, o^ onions, may be added.
the former
;
These should be
They
one third
and an onion,
previous to broiling,
is an improvement. These can be served with any sauce, as apple, tomata, horseradish, mustard, sage and onion, &c. &c.
125. Calves' Heart should be cut lengthways, and the pieces not thicker than half an inch ; broil with a piece of fat, or bacon, for ten minutes serve with a little currant jelly and butter in the dish, under the pieces of heart.
:
It is also excellent (see No. 119) marinaded for a few hours, and the following may be done any way like steak. Ox, pig's, lamb, and sheep's heart, may be done like it. Also the livers of the above, cut the same thickness, and broiled with some bacon, a little melted butter with ketchup in it, is a good sauce for broiled heart and liver. Observe, Eloise, that I shall be obliged to send you many similar receipts to fiiese for %ing-pan, but the flavour wiU be very diflerent. 126. Lamh CJiops should be cut not more than half an inch ihick, and broiled before the ^q very close and quick } thej mX*
5i
MEAT ON
QIIIDIKOH.
Tlirov/ some pepper and salt and serve very hot, with, fried parsley round them, if handy. Lamb chops might be di'essed in paper, the same as veaL
ovei%
127. broiled
Ham.
slice
of
ham
a quarter of an inch
fire,
turning
often.
These are often partaken of cold, after but they are best after broiling they should be at least eight inches above the fire, and the skins pricked, and will take fifteen minutes doing, turning several times.
129.
Blade Puddings.
boiled,
having been
130. Cold
slices
Meat
Broiled.
and
may
When these have a little meat on them, they should be rubbed over with salt and pepper, and a little butter, broiled some distance above or before the fire, that they may get gradually warm, and should be served very hot, and rather brown. Bi^mains of poultry, game, SL'Q., should be done the same.
131. Broiled Bones. 132. Devilled Bone.
fowls,
knife,
turkeys, &c., should be slightly cut all round with a and well rubbed with cayenne and salt, and a teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, or ketchup, or Eelish, and broiled gently Serve very hot. until hot through and brown.
133. Broiled
and Devilled
Toast.
;
mix
one teaspoonful of Eelish, or Sauce ; spread it over the toast, and serve very hot. Broiled kidneys or sausages may be served
on
it.
134 Broiled Kid/neys. Sheep's kidneys should be cut in the miA^ki so as nearly to divide them, leaving the fat in the middle;
.
MEAT IN FEYING-PAH.
55
;
mn
n
broil
common
size is
Season
Lamb's, pig's, calves', and ox kidneys, may be done the saiiie way, but the two latter will take much longer, and should be You may also egg and bread-crumb them, better done.
135. Broiled Fowls, Pigeons,
Sfc,
These,
if
whole, should
be cut in
to
or
beaten
salt
;
flat
Season
and
sufficient distance
from a moderate
turn often.
if large,
They may
FKYING-PAN.INTEODUCTION.
This
the
which is so much in vogue in all parts of even for other purposes besides cookery for I have before me now a letter, written, at the Ovens' diggings, on the back of a frying-pan, for want of a table ; but in your letter you suggest the necessity of paying particular attention to it, as it is the utensil most in vogue in a bachelor's residence. I cannot but admire your constant devotion to the bachelors you are always in fear that this unsociable class of individuals should be uncomfortable. For my part, I do not pity them, and -would not give myself the elightest trouble to comfort them, especially after they have passed the first thirty springs of their life. Let them get married, and enjoy the troubles, pleasures, and comforts of matrimony, and have a wife to manage their home, and attend to more manly pursuits than cooking their supper when they get home at night, because the old housekeeper has gone to bed ; or lighting the fire when they get up m the morning, because the old dame has a slight touch of lumbago and should he require something substantial for })is breakfast, and want that utensil of all work, the frying-pan, finds it all dirt and tishy, not having been cleaned since he last dined at home. No, my deal* Eloise, I assure you 1 do not feel at all inclined to add to then' comforts, though you may do what you like with the following receipt^ which are equally as applicable to them, as to the iiumble abode of the married fraternity.
useful
utensil,
world, and
56
MEAT IK FEYmO-PAN.
You will also find, in tliese receipts, tlia,^ the usnai complaint ai food being greasy by frying, is totally remedied, by sauteing the meat in a small quantity of fat, butter, or oil, which has attained a proper degree of heat^ instead of placing it in cold fat and letting it soak
while melting. I will, in as few words as possible, having my frying-pan in one hand and a rough cloth in the other, with which to wipe it (considering that cleanliness is the first lesson in cookery), initiate you in the art of producing an innumerable number of dishes, which can be made with it, quickly, economically, relishing, and wholesome. But I must first tell you, that the word fry, in the English language, is a mistake; according to the mode in which all objects are cooked which are called fried, it would ansv/er to the French word saute, or the old English term frizzle; but to fry any object, it should be immersed in very hot fat, oil, or butter, as I have carefully detailed to you in our " Modern Housewife.^^ To frizzle, saute, or, as I will now designate it, semi-fry, is to place into the pan any oleaginous substance, so that, when melted, it shall cover the bottom of the pan by about two lines ; and, when hot, the article to be cooked shall be placed therein. To do it to perfection requn-es a little attention, so that the pan shall never get too h6t. It should be perfectly clean a great deal depends on this. I prefer the pan, for man}'- objects, over the gridiron; that is, if the pan is properly used. As regards economy, it is preferable, securing all the fat and gravy, which is often lost when the gridiron is used. All the following receipts can be done with this simple hatterie de miisine, equally as well in the cottage as in the palace, or in the bachelor's chamber as in the rooms of the poor.
To Semi-fry
BteaJc.
Having procured a
steak about three quarters of an inch thick, and weighing about one pound, and two ounces of fat, place the pan on the fire, with
one ounce of butter or fat ; let it remain until the fat is melted, and rather hot ; take hold of the steak at one end by a fork, and dip it in the pan, so that one side is covered with fat^ then Turn lie other side in it, and let it remain for two or three mmuies, according to the heat of the fire ; then turn it it v/ill take about ten or tw^elve minutes, and require to be turned on each side three times, taking care that the pan is not too hot, or it will biini the gravy, and perhaps the meat, and thus lose all file nutriment ; in fact, the pan should never be left, but carefully watched i on this depends the advantages of this style and mode of cookery. If the object is not turned often, it will be fioticed that the gravy will come out on the upper surfiiee of the meat, which, when turning over, will go into the pan and be Seasor. with ^ tealost, instead of remaining in the meat.
:
MEAT IK FEYING-PAIT.
b/
spoonful of salt and a quarter of pepper i then feel witli tlia fmger
that
it is
done, remove
it
iat^
and
first lesson,
must he
never to
is
exceed one inch, nor be less than half an inch, a,nd to be as good housewife near as possible the same thickness all over.
one cut in any other way; but if it cannot be avoided, press it out with the blade of the knife, to give it the proper thickness. When done, v/ipe the pan clean, and place
%viil
object to
it
on a hook against the wall, with the inside of the pan nearest
themselves capable of cooking it without tuition, but having now given these alrections, I hope those who fancy they can cook without learning will knew better for the future, and pay a little attention to so important a rabject.
138. The above Jesson may be varied hj adding to the pan, with the reasoning, a few chopped onions, or eschalots, parsley, mushrooms, pick! es,semi-iTied at the same time or after, and poured
ox
when
the steak
is
dished up, a
little
butter,
may
be handy.
Pour
fried
Some
may
be served with
it,
made:
little
;
more
brown
Some mushrooms,
Jan and
if small,
mixed pickle, put into the pan after the removed, fried a little, then add two tablespoonfuls of the liquor and two of water ; when on the point of boiling pour over the steak. The same may be done v/ith pickled walnuts and gherkins, or two ounces of tavern-keepers' butter rubbed over,
tablespoonfuls of
Two
steak
is
(see 'No. 426,) or half a pint of oyster sauce, or mussel sauce, or horseradish sauce ; or a little fiour dredged over the steak, and a
water added in the pan, when the steak is done, and a folouring or ketchup, and then poured over the steaks
little
little
^ ;
68
MEAT IN
FRYING-PAJf.
These *^ceipts can be continued and multiplied to any extent, on the taste of the cook. A steak may first be dipped in flour, and well shook then, wlien you have semi-fried your meat, it will have acquired a nice brown ; this may also be applied to veal cutlets, pork and mutton chops, poultry and game.
entirely depending
;
139. Another Tj^^/.-When your steak is partly done, dredge both sides over with a spoonful of flour, dish up, pov.r out the fat, put a gill of water in the pan; let it simmer a fev/ minutes, it will make a nice thick sauce.
them lie pan while the steak is doing ; turn them as often as you ilo the steak, serve round with gravy, to make which pour half a gill of water in the pan under the steak the moisture of the potatoes will cause some of the gravy to come out of the meat,
but
it will
Semi fry Cho^s of all kinds, Let it not be too fat ; if it is, cut some off. Always observe tliat a mutton cliop should be one third Have them cut from the fat, and of the same thickness throughout. Very little attention loin, let them be about an inch in thickness.
140.
Ziesson 1.
will accomplish this important point; for I feel convinced, Eloise, that
an
ill-cut
them by beating them out with a chopper. Have your frying-pan very
you like, dripping or lard begins to smoke, take your chop with a fork, by the small end, and dip it in the fat for half a minute; then turn it, let it semi-fry for about three minutes, season the uppermost side with a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity You of pex^per ; then turn it, and serve the other side the same way. may then turn it several times while doing, as that equalizes the
clean
;
As soon
as
it
Ten minutes
will
cook
it
to
Second Lesson. If the above directions are properly attended the chop will present the appearance of a rich brown colomv hiid the fat a gold colour, cutting extremely white and light, while the meat will look darkish, and give a strong gravy which will almost stick to the knife, instead of running on the plate and partaking of a watery red colour, as is the case when a chop is slowly and badly cooked. This last sort of gravy is called by some people rich, wh'cli I am sure^ my dear, you will fuid to be a great mistake
;o,
MEAT IN
FETING-PAIT.
59
though the badly-cooked chop will probably weigh more than the ther, from not having lost so much of its substance, yet it will not Tlie possess half the nutriment and flavour of a chop well done. above quantity of seasoning will do for a chop weighing about a quarter of a pound, and would, I may safely say, suit the palate of fifteen persons out of twenty ; therefore I hope it v/ill diminish the load of salt and pepper every Englishman piles on his plate, previous The cook ought to to tasting the article of food placed before him.
fieason for
When you can thoroughly cook a cliop 141. Third Lesson. according to the first lesson, it materially simplifies the second, which Get a chop and cook it as above, but to vary the is thus done
:
flavour,
when
it
a
;
little
chopped chives, or
chop lightly w^ith a clove of peeled garlic, or a piece of These remarks are applicable to kinds of semi-fried meat.
is still
m.ore simplified,
my dear
Eloise,
namely,
let
and
me
relished
it.
Chops from the neck, called cutlets, are done in this manner. Pork, and ham chops require the same style of seasoning and cooking. slow fire is preferable to a sharp one for the above mentioned chops,
which, when semi-fried, will take a gold colour, as above-mentioned. You may always ascertain when the chop is done by pressing yo7:(r
on the thick part; if the llesh is firm and w^ell set on both done and ready to serve. Half a pint of chopped jjickled red cabbage put in the pan after the chop is done and warmed through will be found very relishing, especially for pork cutlets.
finger
sides, it is
142.
Mutton
Cutlets.
is
the best to
semi-fry; they should be nicely cut, and the bone at the thick
part removed, as
it
then beat up
the yolk and white of an Qgg, with a pinch of salt; have ready some bread-crumbs, made from stale bread, and sifted,
ah*vays be kept ready in a canister) ; beat out the with a small chopper, dip them or rub them with a brush with the Q'g^, place some of the bread-crumbs on a plate, and lay the cutlet on them press them ; serve both sides the game, and shake off ail loose cramhs; have the fiit in the pan quite hot, lay them in it; when nicely browned on one side, tm'n them over, and do the other side the same take them
(this
may
'
cutlets
Dut, lay
them on a cloth, so that no fiit remains made sauce. For bread- crumby see No. 452
60
143.
MEAT
Yeal Cutlets
FKYma-PAN,
144. These may all be ruhhed previous to bread- crumbing, with either onion or eschalot ; hj rubbing them there will bg no perceptible taste, but a pungent flavour these can be served with various made sauces, and stev/ed spinach, greens, peas, and
;
anything, according to
taste,
mutton chops
Mutton,
veal, pork,
and lamb,
all
all
equally good^
when
Sausages and KidMeys, Semi-fried. Peel small onions, put one ounce of butter in the frymg-pan, two ounces of bacon cut in slices, and a tablespoonful f chopped onions fry for five minutes, stirring it with a spoon ^ut half a pound of sausages in half lengthways, place them in the pan, then cut an ox kidney into thin slices, omitting the the centre of the pan, season with half a hard part put it teaspoonful of salt and one saltspoonful of pepper ; fry gently Take care they are not done for five minutes, turning them. too much, or they will be hard ; throw a teaspoonful of flavour over them, add one quartern of water; simmer two minutes; dish with kidneys in the middle and sausages round. Dripping, lard, or oil, may be used instead of butter, and a few small mushrooms is an improvement.
146. 1st Lesson.
and chop
2nd Lesson. Kidneys alone, Slice thin an ox kidney, put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; v/hen hot, add two ounces of bacon, cut in thin dice, and the kidney ; fry for five minutes, if over a brisk fire ; longer, if over a slow fire ; add a teaspoonful of flour, salt, and pepper, moisten with half a pint oi water, simmer a few minutes, stir round, and serve with or *;ithout crisp toasted bread round it: a little lemon is an improvement.
?}rd Lesson. Mutton Kidneys, witli Ale Satice.^'^Cut sii kidneys in two, remove the outer skin, cut them into slices; put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan ; when very hot, put in
stir
sprinkle
MEAT
IN FilYmG-]PAK.
a
little
;
61
and pepper, and,
i!
salt
place of ale, or
vinegar, if preferred.
147. Calves' Liver, Semi-fried. Cut tlie liver a quarter of an inch thick, the bacon the same, mix in a plate a tablespoonful rf flour, ODO teaspoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, dip the iiver into it have ready the frying-pan, with sufiicient fat or di'ipping, quite clear, as mucli as will cover the bottom of the pan a quarter of an inch when very hot (whicli try as before the bacon will be directed for fish), put in the liver and bacon done first, which remove; the liver must be turned in five minutesj= when it is done remove it into a dish, and serve.
;
148. Another
Way.
all
the
fat,
then put
iij
stir till
salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a small teacupful of water, a little curry poAvder if handy: mis well together, and pour over tbe liver. Calves' Hearts, as weil as pig's and sheep's, &c. &c., may be done like liver, cut in slices, with the exception, that either some currant-jelly, port wine, or a little ale or porter, or ketchup, may be added to the sauce it is also good bread-crumbed.
;
Fry is sometimes to be had for a trifle ; you from about threepence or fourpence per pomid wash it in cold water for every pound put a quart of v/ater put them in it for ten minutes to set take them out, lay them on a cloth then put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter or dripping, letting it get hot, then dip ea^cb piece of the fry in the follow ing mixture, and put in the pan, and fi:y gently break an e^g^ beat it well, add a teaspoonful of flour, which mix smiooth, half a wineglass of either milk or water, a little salt and pepper may be put in this delicate batter. When your fiy has obtained a nice gold colour, tm-n it wlien done, season with a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of pepper, to every pound of fry. A few thopped onions put in tlie pan witli the mest. is very nice^ or a few mushrooms. Pigs' chitlings, done as above, will be found very gooo, esp@ dally if fried wii:b onions ; buy them ready cleaned, then before
149. Jjarnhs
can pm'chase
it
62
you fry them
Tripe
let
; ;
MEAT
tliem
IN FRYING-PAN*
in a saucepan, in
;
simmer
salfc
and water
may
also be
FOWLS.
motive of semi-frying food is to have it done quicldy j whole fov/1, or even half, is useless, as it could be cooked in a different way in the same time ; but to semii-fry a fowl with the object of having it quickly placed on the table, in orcla- to satisfy a good, and perhaps fastidious, appetite, it should be done ia a similar way to that practised in Egypt some 3000 years since, end of late years for the great Napoleon that is, cooked in. oil. In France this dish is called " Poulet a la Marengo." It is relatei that the great conqueror, after having gained that celebrated victory eat three small chickens at one meal done in this way, and his appetite and taste was so good, and he approved of them so highly that he desired that they might always be served in the same waj during the campaign.
therefore, to fry a
150.
The
151. The fowl should be divided thus ; if just killed it should be plucked and drawn as quick as possible, or cooked whilst still warm ; it will then be tender if it has been long killed, the joints and pieces should be well beaten with a piece of wood, not to break the skin and bones, but to loosen the sinews. The legs should be first removed, then the wings, going close up to the
;
breast
then cut the belly in two by this there They should be seasoned with pepper and salt
;
;
for
want of
oil,
fat,
young
fov/l, it will
minutes
when done
serve plain,
some vinegar, or ketclmp want of wine add a little vinegar give it a boil up till half A few fried reduced season and pour into the dish, and serve. mushrooms are excellent with it; or six oysters, with their
;
liquor, or
If the fowl
Dack, truss
it
it
down
the
put two ounces of oil into the pan, lay in the fowl, season it ; it must be done gently, and will take half an hour, if young, but of a good size if rather an old bird, it will take one tliii'd more than the above
beat
it fiat,
fcime.
dowD
same
ss
MEAT IN FEYmG-PAH.
*o wl >in
;
OJ
season and irj with
fi'^it
off
ounce of
oil
They
them
flat,
153. Rahhits.Qvit
Dones,
in pieces,
remove
all
superfluous
salt,
season
pan on the fire with two ounces of fat, put in it two onions, sliced, and then the rabbit ; they will take twenty minutes or more to do, gently remove the pieces of rabbit ; have the liver, heart, and brains chopped up with a little parsley, and fry
place the
;
vv^ith
add
gill of water,
little
season
it
give
it
curry
may
served separate.
are best
is
154. Toultry of all Muds, Devilled. These by poultry previously cooked. The proper way
vfith the gridiron,
to do
fire is
then prepare them as already described for broiling. Place in the pan one ounce only of butter, and fry gently until hot through. A slight improvement may be made in using the frying-pan ; it is to rub the bottom with garlic or eschalot before
in,
Mm
' ;
64
MEAT IN FEYIKG-PAH.
many
objects
wMcli we detest
Leicester.
candidate
supporters proposed giving liim a dinner to console him for his loss he, however, could not attend, but sent them a raised pie of game, about the size of a small carriage wheel, which was partaken of by his
supporters with great gusto,
liked the pie, as
A few
the chairman, as if from the noble lord, stating that he was glad they
he had now got his revenge for their having deceived that the pie was composed of polecats, dogs, rats, &c. &c. This letter was shown to the members of the committee and it soon got noised about, and although four days had elapsed, there was hardly a person that liad partaken of it who was not ill. The noble lord having left that part of the country, it was some days before the hoax was found out.
him
in the election
pan.l
Neio Style of Dressing Liver in Frying take about two pounds of ox liver remove the sinew and veins, cut it into long slices, half an inch thick, put in two ounces of dripping in pan when hot put in three pieces at a time of liver until set ; cut a quarter of a pound
155. 1st Lesson.
dressed
it
thus
fat,
cut
up the
liver in small
add a tablespoonful of chopped onions, the same of parsley, the same of flour, a teaspoonful of salt and half of pepper, stir round, and then add half a pint of water,
add
it
or a little
more
sauce
little
a dish, cover over with bread-crumbs, put a fat over, and place in the oven or before the fire for twenty
;
put
all into
fewminutes brown it over with a hot shovel, and serve. poached eggs put on the top will give it a nice appearance^, and render it more nourishing. Curry may be used.
;
The remains of any kind of cooked meat good ; the meat having been previously done Cut in thin slices about one pound 'will only require mincing. of meat, put on a dish, sprinkle over about a teaspoonful of salt third ditto of pepper, one of flour, mix well, put in your fryingpan, add half a pint of water, and a drop of colouring, if handj put on tEe fire, stir when it commences to boil, then place it en the hobj let it simmer ten minutes, and serve. N.E.This is very plain, as you see, and can be ipade in an^
156.
Minced Heat.
MEAT
FEYIKG-PAN.
only for tliose
disla
09
it liere
wko
possess
economical
in twenty different
prepare always
;
your meat,
flour,
salt,
and pepper, as
such as
also be
cliox)ped herbs,
made
used,
may
if
approved
of.
157. Minced
frying-pan
dice
;
:
may
be
aid of tke
tbe meat and fat oif tlie joint into small amount of fat you put with the lean, say three ounces for every pound when cut put a pound of it on a dish, add to it a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, two spoonfuls of flour, and a chopped onion; put in the pan half a pint of water to boil, two teaspoonfuls of colouring; then put the meat in, stir it, let it simmer gently for twenty minutes, and
all
Gut
calculate the
poached eggs on it are very good or put the mince into a tin pan, bread-crumb over, drop a little butter or dripping over, then put it in the oven, or before the fire to brown. The mince may be made vf hite by using milk instead of water and colouring.
serve on toast
; ;
of Mincing Meat. Cut in small dice one beef, mutton, pork, or veal, flesh and fat in proportion ; put in the pan two ounces of butter or dripping when hot, add the meat, stir it occasionally, and season it with two small teaspoonfuls of salt, a little spice, half one of pepper. When the meat is just set, put in a teaspoonful of flour, half a pint of water; let it simmer twenty minutes, or, if tough, a little longer, adding a gill more water, and serve; a little
158.
New Way
may be added. If veal, lamb, kept white, and milk may be used ; if beef or mutton, the sauce ought to be brov/n, and three teaspoonfuls of colouring added; the juice of a lemon, or a drop of vinegar, is very good with it; ox kidneys may be done the sam^e v/ay. This will make a good curry by the addition of
eschalot, chives, or onions, chopped,
may be
158 A. Sim^Mjied id ay of SasJiing all kinds of CooJced Meat.'-^Qvi a pound of meat, except salted meat^ previously
-66
MEAT IN
put
it
FSYrNG-PAIT.
on a
dish,
add to
it
one teaspoonall
salt,
k)gether
then put
all in
^.f cold water ; set it on the fire let simmered ten minutes; take up, and
it
it
has
serve.
mushrooms,
pickles, sauce, or
ketchup.
made
as curries,
by
first
then add the meat, give it a fry, mix with half a pint of water, one teaspoonful of good curry powder, pour it over the meat, give it a simmer for ten minutes, and serve with boiled rice separate.
baking-apple, also cut small
and Squealc. Any remains of salt beef or pork be dressed in this old, but good and economical fashion. Cut your meat, when cold, in thin slices, to the weight of about a pound, including, if possible, from two to three ounces of fat then take one or two Savoy cabbages, accordmg to size, which,
160, JBuhhle
may
when
cut
each cabbage in four, throw a few of the green outside leaves away,
as likewise the stalk put about a gallon of water in an iron saucepan; when boiling add your cabbage, and let it remain about twenty minutes, or until tender drain them well, and chop tliem np rather fine then add three ounces of either butter or dripping in the frying-pan, which put on the fire ; when hot put in your slices of meat, which semi-fry of a nice brownish colour, on both sides; take them out, put them on a dish, keep them warm then put the cabbage in the pan with the fat, add a teaspoonful of salt, the same quantity of pepper stir round till hot throughout; put on the dish, lay the meat over, and serve; if nu cabbage, any green will do, fiist boiled, di-ained, chopped, and Boiled carrots and turnips, previously cooked and chopped, fried. may be added to the cabbage.
; ; ; ; ;
foi-
BISAT IN FEYING-PAH.
:
6*
lowing is tliirty receipts in one Put a pound of the crumb oi bread to soak in coid water, take the same quantity of any kind of boiled or roasted meat, a little fat, which chop in dice
put in the pan two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping, with two teaspoonfuls oi chopped onions, fry two minutes, add the bread, stir with wooden spoon until rather dry, then add the meat, season with a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, if handy stir till quite hot ; then add two eggs, one at a time, mis very quick, and pour on dish to cool.
rather fine, press the water out of the bread
; '^ ;
Then
roll
it
flour,
egg them and bread-crumb, fry (as 'No. 72) a nice yellow colour; ^erve plain, or with any sharp or any other sauce you fancy.
162. Innumerable are the receipts t^nnt can be
made
in thi5
from everything that is eatable, and at any season oi the year, from the remains of meat, poultry, game, fish; vegetables, using the same amount of seasoning. Bread soaked in milk is better.
;
way
in fact,
163.
fruits,
;
fry,
and and
They may
crumbs. There
is
fritters,
no end to v/hat may be done with these receipts. fried, and when cold put between paste, cut into nice pieces of any shape, and baked. They can be ornamented, and made worthy the table of the greatest epicure, if the bread be soaked in cream, and spirits or liquor introduced in them.
They may be
Boil two pounds of tripe ; when dry with a cloth, cut it in pieces about an inch square, put in the pan four ounces of butter, four middling-sized onions cut in slices, fry for a few minutes, then add the tripe, stir them every four minutes for about a quarter of an hour, then put
164. Tripe, Tiyons fasldon.
it,
done, drain
in
a teaspoonful of
salt,
of vinegar,
mixed
well,
and
it v/ill
Yermicelli, boiled
coiled in,
vvay.
T>>5; a^'^Ution
in the
be ready for serving. water that the tripe has been Rice or bread is nice done ^vi
o'
; ;
68
fiour^
MEAT IK
and half a pint of
tlie tripe.
FRYIKG-PAll.
make a good
eurry with
165.
A Fried
Toad
the Hole.
batter, as
and partly fry on both sides have ready a pint of second-class No. 462; remove the steak for a minute, add more fat in the pan, put in the batter when it is beginning to become as
a sufficient height from the fire on a trivet, so as to cook gently turn it over; or put the pan in the oven; when well set it is done ; serve on a dish, the bottom uppermost.
thick as paste, place the steak in the middle, raise the frying-pan
165 A. Tripe Sauted. Have the tripe abeady boiled tender put into the pan two ounces of fat, with two onions in slices fry them ; v/hen brown add the tripe, which must be diy when they get a little brown add salt, pepper, a pint of second-class
;
batter, 'Eo.
462
proceed as above.
Proceed
as above
Proceed
as above
adding piccalilly,
166.
m2.j be done in this way, and, a-dozen, which put on the top.
167.
The Memains of other hinds of Cold Moast Meats when eggs are cheap, poach half-
168.
square,
Veal or Mutton, cut into pieces, about two inches and thin, may be fried and added to the batter.
169.
Take a
and cut
be free from ginews, have the frying-pan well greased, add the pieces of meat, do them quickly, sprinkle salt, pepper, and a little fiour over them whilst domg; and when nearly done add any flavour you
like, either
little
vinegar.
Serve
very hot.
69
of veal in
quarter of
then take each piece separate, little chopped parsley and with the back of the knife beat them well till nearly in a pulp ; give them the shape of cutlets with a knife ; egg and bread-crumb; beat them nice and smooth, put two ounces of
lard in the frying-pan
plain, or
;
when
serve
These ma}'- be done, as a with sharp sauce, No. 420. general dish, by adding a little fried bacon and chopped onions in the frying-pan. They are extremely tender and full ot gravy Beef, mutton, and lam.b, may be done the same way. Sausagemeat of beef or pork may be here introduced, shaped and fried the same.
iNTRODUCTIO:^' TO
BAKING STEW-PAH.
dear Eloise, In some of my former letters, I have stated that the principal art of cookery consists in knowing the exact time each object requires to be subjected to the action of the fire ; whether it he direct, or by the assistance of either roasting, frying, baking, or
boiling.
My
that no
but to v/hom we wish to dedicate these letters can probably give. I have been thinking in what way we could obviate the present
loss, which either ascends the chimney to disperse in thin air, or pervades the apartments of the house to the inconvenience of its inmates. I am the more particularly led to the consideration of this subject from having, in my rambles, entered a cottage, the other day, from which an odour proceeded, as if something more than ordinary cookery was going on, when I found a large pot of a kind of Irish stew boiling away on the fire, and the fragrance of the vegetabl:3s and meat dispersed over the apartment. Entering into conversaUon with the occupant, whom I found to be the wife of a carpenter on the adjoining estate, and who was preparing the table for six persons to dine, I soon found she had no mean opinion of her abilities in cooking. I remonstrated with her on the waste she was making, and at once took up a plate, and held it over the pii . so as to intercept the steam, when it was shortly covered by cond i^i'^, steam and small particles ot jihrine, which I convinced her ^ yixA be much better used in giving nutriment to her family than ^n mingling with tha soot in the chimney.
Large quantities of food may be treated in such a manner, more nutriment shall be obtained than by smaller quantities | learn this requires practice and attention, more than those to
70
In onr
stiperior kitchens there may be plenty of means and utensik prevent a part of this evil ; but in the cottage, the abode of the labourer, whose stock of kitchen utensils consists of an iron pot, frying-pan, and gridiron, these kind of stews could not be done without great waste and difficulty. I have therefore invented a new and simple baking stew-pan, by which all the nutriment and flavour of the various ingredients placed in it are preserved. In order that you may understand it, I will give you a drawing and description of it, feeling confident it will be useful to the million. (See appendix Jtt the end of book.) It has, likewise, one great advantage over the old method of boiling or stewing, namely, that it gives hardly any trouble in making, retains all the nutriment, cooks in one-third less the time taken by the usual way, and there is not a part of any beast, such as mutton, lamb, beef, pork, veal, or fish, however tough, that may not be cooked tender by this pan. Let whatever you cook in it be sweety you may, by using this pan and the following receipts, make delicious dishes of fish, flesh, or vegetables ; moreover, food prepared in this way will keep much longer than if dressed another Vv'ay, and must consequently facilitate the way of cooking for a large family, as you can do enough food at once to last for several meals, which you must
to
admit will save an immense deal of time. This modest pan, as you must perceive, will concentrate all the nutriment and aroma created by any kind of food placed in it ; and tlie object I have in putting a lock and key on it, is to prevent any ^j3rson raising ^he lid while cooking, as by so doing the best part of the flavour womd immediately escape. It is so constructed that it may be hung over the flre, or placed on the liob, or steamed or boiled in a stev/pan (as you would a pudding
boiled in a basin), or in a cottage or baker's oven.
I have hitherto done all food partaken of by the larger part of the people of this country, who, I am sorry to say, are much behind their continental neighbours in the art of cookery, though possessing the best kind of food, and certain I am that huge
You must agree, my excellent friend, that n my power to simplify and economize the
mountains might be erected with the food daily and hourly wasted, even at the doors of the poor.* Is it possible, that in a country where the science of political economy has made such progress, that such men as Jeremy Bentham iid others have written volumes to benefit their fellow men, and vet
* ^Miile on
my Governmental
of the famine, 1847, the following conversation took place between Lord Bessborough, then l^ord-Lieutenant of Ireland, and myself, after
in,>
71
by
all classes
of society
that I have explained to you my new method of cookery, you must try the following receipts, and then you will &nd my assertion
Now
to be correct.
Take two 171. Beef'Stealc in Balcing Tan. First 'Lesson. pounds of beef steak, which cut in pieces the size of walnuts, but only half an inch thick peel two pounds of potatoes, cut in slices a quarter of an inch thick, two middling- sized onions sliced ; mix two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper. Then lay five or six slices of potatoes on the bottom of the pan, iBeason them, then add some pieces of beef; season again, then potatoes and onions, then beef, until the pan is full, potatoes on
;
me
*^hen I replied,
Easily,
my
lord
why they actually manure the *How do you make that out?'
' Why, my lord, they waste tons of was his excellency's inquiry. ' In your opinion, good fish on the ground to grow a few potatoes.' why do they do it ?' * Why, my lord ? Because they know how ta cook potatoes to perfection, and are totally ignorant of the way to * Well, I believe you are right,' said his lordship ; * but cook fish.' how could the evil be remedied ?' * Easily,' I replied. * I would first show them how to cook their food, no matter how simple such food might be, and prove to them that the maize, or American flour, now so much use, if properly prepared, would be a blessing
instead of a
curse;
also
their food
other vegetables besides potatoes, as well as instruct them in several plain ways of cooking fish, which could be had in abundance aU the year round, at a very cheap rate ; it would, at the same time, give employment on the coast to thousands of indolent people, as well as circulate an immense deal of money in the interior of the country and much improve the condition of these poor wretched beings whC only seem to have been born to live between poverty and starvation. " My plan would be to have public lecturers appointed, whose duty it should be to go round as often as the agricultural lecturer, and teach the people how to cook the food which that person now en-
deavours to make them cultivate* " Until this is done, this country will never emerge out of the semi-barbarous state in which it is at present." His lordship took a note of the conversation, but sudden illness
prevented
my
; )
72
hour and a half; when done shake the pot gently, that tLe gravy may mix with the potatoes and onions, and form a nice thick Skirt or any other part of beef is excellent done thus. sauce.
Observe, Eloise, that this is the plain foundation of every receipt I am going to send you, on that simple and effective style of cookery. I have omitted all seasoning but salt and pepper ; if onions
which
them; therefore take this as a guide for all fish, which are very good done -jx
way.
this
be made, which gives a change flour with a little chopped suet, a little salt, a gill of water, to form a paste roll it out to cover the meat, so that it fits to the sides of the pan; then put A little dripping will do for the cover on as usual, and bake.
is,
may
the paste.
You have often reproached me of liking to give varieties of seasoning; in the above it is according to your own heart; but having done so, let me give one according to my own liking, and though you say the majority of people are not fond of savoury cookery, and do not lilve any predominant flavour ; but I am certain they only require to
try
it
will like
it.
173.
fond of onions.
very slight, to the above a stronger flavour, and These may be varied by the
is
it
either two
cloves, or
one
little
Or with the herbs, two small bay-leaves, two sprigs of some winter savory, or lemon thyme if dried, more should be used; two teaspoonfuis of chopped
;
parsley
may
be employed.
little
celery seed
is
also very
good.
174. Ze^ of Beef. ^Take two pounds of the leg ^that part ^hich is full of sinew cut as above, and season the same wa^ ; add a pint of water, and give another hour in the oven meat witiiout bone is preferable ; any part of the beef will dt> for w:u3
:
receipt.
; ;
73
Or, instead of cutting tlie leg or any other part of the beast, may be put in whole, letting it weigh about four This process of cooking will make it very palatable pounds.
the cheek
and tender;
garlic.
to vary
it,
the meat
may
Peel two carrots, two turnips, 175. Beef with Vegetables, two onions, cut in pieces, put some vegetables at the bottom, then the meat in centre ; season, and cover over with remaining vegetables ; add a few cloves, a pint of water, or half ale and half water ; put in slow oven for three hours, take off the fat, and serve. Four pounds of any inferior part of beef will eat tender done thus.
176.
Ox
Tail.
Cut
;
them
piece;
herbs
roll
each piece in
them
;
carefully
add a pint of
and
serve.
177. Ox Heart and Kidneys. The heart does not enjoy a I mean not only with the wealthy, but very high reputation. with the laborious part of the population, in consequence of the difficulty experienced in cooking it properly. It is thus generally
on the hands of the butcher, and consequently sokl cheap but I trust these receipts will occasion a change, and induce them to purchase those provisions which are now despised.
left
178. Wash an ox heart in several waters, cut it in six pieces lengthways, like steak, lay a few slices of potatoes at tiie bottom
of the pan, then a few slices of bacon, then the heart, then bacon
again, and then potatoes over all
;
handy
it
season as you
arid serve.
fill
part,
If a small heart, buy half an ox kidney, cut out the hard and divide it into small pieces, and mix it with the heart if yon can get a cow-heel already boiled, which is the case in Jarge tk)wi?.s, it may be added in pieces, omitting the bone.
179.
Ox Seart, stewed
w/iQle.-^
74
gOYER's
BAKIM
fat
STEWING-PAK.
.
four quart
pan a piece of
with stuffing, IsTo. 456 Put ill ,^ bacon half an inch thick, and on it
cut into slices some and onions, and a piece of bacon cut in dice season it with three teaspoonfuls of salt and one o! pepper fill up round the heart until the pan is full, put in a pint of water, and bake for two hours. A teaspoonful of sugar and three of browning may be added.
the
heart, the
potatoes, carrots, turnips,
;
:
181.
Tongues,
brains,
and
liver,
ought to be
set
before
may
way
as the
182. But supposing you have all these, and you wish to mix them together, then cut them into thin slices, leaving out put them on a dish, and for every pound of meat the brain season with one teaspoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of flour then have one onion and half a pound of potatoes cut in slices to each pound of meat, and place in the pot as before, mixing the brain cut in pieces add bake according to half a pint of water to each pound of meat
;
; ;
size.
cover
may
Take about two 183. Good Plain Family Irish Stetv. pounds of scrag or neck of mutton ; divide it into ten pieces, cut eight large potatoes and four onions lay them in the pan in slices, season with one teaspoonful and a half of pepper, and three of salt ; cover all with water ; put it into a slow oven for two hours, then stir it all up well, and dish up in deep dishes. If 3^ou add a little more water at the commencement, you can take out when half done, a nioe cup of broth.
;
Put in a pan two pounds of meat simplijled. which lay at the bottom; cover then-i with eight whole Dnions, and these with twelve whole potatoes ; season as before cover over with water, and send to the oven for two hom's. Almost any part of the sheep can be used lor Irish stew. k gallon pan is required for this and the preceding receipt.
T/ie
same
as before,
>
184.
0:c
Tongue^
FoUed and
Braized*
;
;
76'
a bonne bouclie,
it
being a dish wortby a first-class Take a tongue from the pickle, and
^ash it clean ; cut off a part of the rough pieces of the root, put a thick slice of bacon at the bottom of the pan, and over that a pound of lean beefsteak or veal, and then the tongue turned round to fit the pan ; have a cow-heel, parboiled and ready boned, place it on the tongue, and cover it with another slice of bacon, and a slice of beef or veal; season with two teaspoonfuls of pepper, a little powdered ginger and cloves, one bay-leaf, one carrot sliced, and two onions sliced ; add two
wineglassfuls of brandy or sherry, four of old ale, and one quart
of water; cover well over, and put in a slow oven for three hours
take off the cover, and put a piece of board with a weight on the
top until cold, then the next day turn it out of the pan, v/hich you can do by placing the pan in hot water. But should you wish to use the tongue hot for dinner, take it out, and when done with it, put the remains in and press, as before described. The vegetables may be also pressed in with the meat or served hot round the tongue. The remains of pickled ox tongues are very nice, intermixed and placed in a pan, and pressed, when they will turn out like
collared head.
two hours.
185.
Ox
To7igues,
Fresh and
'Pickled.
as
above, add two carrots, four turnips, four cloves, ten small
dumplings, (see ISTo. 349,) fill the pan with water, add either a little bay -leaf, thyme, or winter savory; stew in an oven for three hours, trim and dish up with vegetables, and dumplings round, making soup of the broth. For fresh ox tongue, proceed as above, adding three teaspoonfuls of salt.
186. Veal. season
veal, or
meat from
the shoulder, or the neck or breast, in fact any part, cut in pieces
with one teaspoonful and a half of salt, and a half ol pound of bacon cut in slices. To vary the seasoning, use herbs, (No. 451 It will also be very good with some suet pudding, previously boiled in small calls, if you omit either potatoes or stuffing. The pieces of veal should be rolled in flour add half a pint of water, if with potatoes, and more, if pudding or stuffing ; bake one hour and a half, and serve. Mushrooms may be added.
it
76
soyek's baking stewing-pah.
187. Purchase six calves'
tails,
; ;
and
after
washed, cut them about two inches in length, and cook them as above, with the addition of more vegetables, as carrots
turnips, &c.
They
are excellent
188.
Take
them well in flour, put some fat in the frying-pan, fry the meat until a nice brown, take it out, and then fry four onions, two turnips cut in large dice, and one carrot the same when brown take them out, put the veal and vegetables into pan, season with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, add a pint of water, to which has been added four teaspoonfuls of browning; put into oven for one hour, skim the fat, shake the pan, and serve. A few herbs and a little ham or bacon is an imBeef, mutton, lamb, and pork may be done the provement. same way. A teaspoonful of sugar is an improvement.
;
an Extra Dinner. A small iilkt of No. 456; tie it up tight, put some fat put in the fillet, fry into a fryingpan, about an inch deep gently until one side is brown, and then put in the otner side until brown; fry in the same pan some large button onions whole, some turnips and carrots, cut in pieces the size of eggs put the fillet into a pan, with a piece of fat bacon at the bottom; fill up round it with the vegetables; put another piece of bacon on the top, add some seasoning to the vegeput on the cover, so that the tables, and a pint of water steam does not escape put it into a slow oven, giving a quarter When served take out the of an hour for each pound weight. fillet, put the gravy into a small basin, and skim off the fat pour the gravy over the veal, and either serve the vegetables round the fillet or separate. A little browning is an improve189. Fillet of Veal for
veal,
boned and
stuff with
ment.
190.
The following
is
pound of
frying pan, fry for twenty minutes until of a nice brown colour, place it in the baking stew-pan, also fry a quarter of a pound of
tacoTi
cxtk.
77
ilour over
twenty of turnip when a nice colour throw two ounces of them, and stir three teaspoonfuls of salt, and a small one of pepper, two of sugar put all this into the pan, add three pints of hot coloured water No. 453 a, and a bunch of sweet herbs; shake the pan well, and place in oven for two hours skim the These preparations are for a large sized liver. fat and serve. You Pig's, lamb's, and sheep's liver, is excellent done thus. may place all the above ingredients in the baking pan without frying any; it will be very good, though not so savouiy in
;
;
flavour.
191. Beef-h'la-Mode,
Take a
;
rump
inches long and half an inch square, lard the beef through with
the bacon (see No. 450), place the beef in the pan, and also the foot, di\dded in two, and a bunch of sweet herbs, two middlesized carrots, cut into squares,
brandy, a teaspoonful of
salt,
water, put the cover on the pan, to prevent the steam escaping,
and send it to the baker's for three hours ; should it be done home, turn the pan so that the heat is equal on aU sides when done remove the fat from the top, put the beef in a dish, with the foot on each side, and the carrots and onions round throw the gravy over; take away the herbs. This, you may perceive, is a most exquisite dish, will keep good many days in winter, and five or six in summer. It is good cold.
at
192.
part of the ox
193.
pieces,
Any
The same,
to he
eaten cold,
into square
bacon three inches long, have a cowheel already boiled in about two quarts of water, with two onions, pepper and salt, and a little
vinegar
; take the cowheel and remove all the bones, and place it, with the meat and bacon, in the pan, with the liquor in which
the heel was boiled, two carrots cut into small di^e, ten gherkins cut into slices, and ser/i to the oven for three hours take off the i
78
over,
and
plaice
flat
piece of board
on
;
tlie
top of
tlie
meat^ with
It
make it firm and when cold use it. To remove it from the pan place is very good for breakfast.
a heavy weight, so as to
;
the
pan in hot water for a few minutes, and turn it over it will come out easily, and cut like brawn, or it may be cut from the pan.
and Sead of Lamh. These may be done as follows: ^Put it into a gallon pan, with one carrot, two turnips, one leek, cut in thick slices, thirty young button onions whole, three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, cover with water, and set it on the fire, or in your oven for one hour ; at the end of one hour put in one pint of peas, a little green mint, and a teaspoonful of sugar ; set it by the side of the fire or in the oven for half an hour longer, and serve. This is for a leg or joint of five pounds weighty for a larger one
194. JLeg, "Breast^ Scrag,
.ll
take a
little
longer time.
A bunch
may
be
added, but
should be removed
when
served.
The
be served with vegetable or without, as liked, but then the broth should be strained, and the vegetables served separate, or the broth made into spring or
flavour is exquisite,
and
may
other soups.
part, not too fat, is exceedingly good done Cut two pounds in slices, rather large and thin, season with salt and pepper, then add a few slices of fat, then some slices of potatoes, then pork and then potatoes, until all is in ; add half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half.
195. JPorlc.
Any
in this
way
196. Another
peel
pieces,
two baking
in
slices, season with pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little powdered sage, intermix the vegetables, lay the slices and the vegetables together, half a pint of water, or enough to cover it. Bake two hours and serve.
two teaspoonfuls of
half of pepper,
mix all well together, pnt it in the pan with half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half. A little bone may
one of flour
;
SOYEIl*S
BAKING
STEWING-I.AJSJ.
79
wash half a pint of split peas, put some pepper, and half a carrot
two hours,
stir
up with cold water, send it to the oven A few up the peas well hefore serving.
Eice
vegetables
may be
introduced.
may
:
be used thus Take a four-quart pan, some greens, remove the stalk, slice them, and also add four onions sliced, four cloves, and one teaspoonful of pepper press it well down put over it a quarter- of a pound a of dripping, add a pint of water, and stew ior three hoars it will little salt may be added if the pork is not salt enough make an excellent soup if filled up with water half an hour
199.
SaU
JPorh
may
previous to using.
also be used,
but
first
and twelve
peppercorns, if handy.
200.
Put a
two pounds, into pan, with a quart of peas ; fill up with water, add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, two onions bake for three hours. Salt beef is also good ; a little mint may be added. Three pints of large peas alone, with a little dripping, is good as above.
;
in thin slices,
and Torlc. Cut two good Savoy cabbages wash them, put half in pan, then a piece of pork about two pounds, or either ham, bacon, or salt beef; season as
201. Cahhage
;
again
add, if
onions, and a
you have it, four cloves, or pepper corns, four bunch of sweet herbs do not fill it with water to
:
the brim, or
it
the
two
same way.
I
In
fact,
all
dried pulse
lentils. I have also latterly tried the dried green pea, well soaked for twenty hours, and dressed as haricots and lentils. 1 find that one pint absorbs two quarts of water. It makes an Sfcgreeable as well as economical food.
and
80
203.
ham, and salted and tongue, which are daily to be obtained in Xiondon, may be dressed in this way Buy two good savoys ^r white cabbages, cut them in four, take out the hard stalk, and boil them for ten minntes in water ; place them in a dish to drain cut the quarters ^gain into four, lay some at the bottom of the pan, then a fe\\ sausages and saveloys, season with salt and pepper, and the a fill up the pan; then add two ounces of dripping or suet, half a pint of water, bake one hour and a half, and serve with cabbage under, and sausages on the top. Eed cabbage with saveloys are preferable ; then add one gill of vinegar, a few peppercorns ; stew them longer, and serve as above. I have tried with raw cabbage ; it is not bad, and saves
cervelas,
pig's feet
time.
Two
onion.
may be
feet,
generally
which case the cabbage should be done first. Sheeps' and pigs' tongues are very good done in this way, and they make a cheap and wholesome meal.
204.
Put
pan a
rabbit, cut
peel eight
also half a
dice,
season with
in layers,
;
salt
water
serve.
Proceed as above; only add to the 205. Curry Rahhits. water two teaspoonfuls of curry powder; let it well mix, or season with it at the same time as the other seasoning. The same may be done with rice instead of potatoes, but use
rice
two quarts of water to every pound of ought to weigh five pounds when
rice.
boiled.
206. '.Plain Rahhit, Chiclcens, or Pigeons for Invalids.-^ cut into nice pieces; the chicken in
it
in a two-quart pan,,
81
pepper
With a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in dice, a Utile salt and a few sprigs of parsley, and half a pint of water, if the
;
pan
is
not quite
one hour.
up with some small pieces of veal put No. 317 put cover close over, and bake Skim the fat off, and serve.
full
;
fill
all,
HOW
The deep tin dish at the bottom of the pan is to contain either pudding, gravy, or vegetables, the grating above is to lay any meat, poultry, fish, or game on, you wish to cook by this process.
Purchase two ribs of beef, 207. Ribs of Beef semi-roasted. Done them, then season the interior of the meat with salt and pepper; roll the meat round like a cheese, using a piece of
string or a skewer to keep
batter, as
;
i
it
in that position
make a quart
of
No. 462 put it in your pan, which previously well grease put the grating over, and lay your meat on it, surrounding it with potatoes either whole or cut allowing from twelve to fifteen minutes for each pound of meat, according to the state of the oven. Dish up the beef with the potatoes round, and serve the pudding in the tin, or turn it out on a dish. The beef may be stuffed with stuffing. No. 456. Nothing is more objectionable to me than to see salt put on the top of a roast joint, and water poured over to make the gravy. The only way to remedy this is to put a gill of boiling water and a little salt on the hot dish you intend putting the meat on, turning the joint in it once during the interval of a minute and, whilst carving, the juice from the meat will mingle with it and make a good gravy. Half a teaspoonful of colom-ing, much improves its appearance. This is applicable to all roasted
-,
or semi-roasted joints.
Por large
water over
;
salt
on the
bones at the back of the joint, and pour half a pint of boiling
gravy, No. 2, or broth. No. 1, will be found preferable to either of the above.
Brown
208.
Mutton semi-roasted. Half a leg of mutton, about pounds, potatoes and pudding, if liked, under, will take fcbout one hour. Shoulder the same.
our
Place in the bottom four apples, and potatoes, and over that a joint of
; ;
3^
pork,
and pepper; sprinkle a little sage; add pan bake for two hours. For a change, pork should be purchased the day before using", covering it all over with salt ; and then scrape it well before cooking it, makes it eat short and savoury.
aalf a pint of water in the
:
210.
Lamb
it
semi-roasted,
well,
Boil
it
water, drain
and chop
;
salt and pepper; put potatoes over the grating, and then the joint of iamb small ribs or shoulder will take an hour leg, one hour and thirty minutes. Dish it up with the spinach separate, the fat having been removed from it. Greens of any kind may be done in the same manner, particularly the young leaf of the white beet, which is an excellent substitute for spinach, or even chopped nettles: these are also good under
soned with
is
No. 207.
211. Poultry er/ii'roasted. Almost any kind of vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, onions, potatoes, celery, or mushrooms, may be put raw in the pan and cooked under poultry, as well
as cabbage, spinach, or greens, previously boiled
and chopped.
;
1^^ Lesson.
peel
and cut in middling-sized pieces about half a pound of carrots, the same of turnips ; place them ia the pan with half a pint of water, half a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, and half of pepper put the grating over, placing the fowl on it, surrounding it with peeled potatoes, season a little more, bake for an hour, and serve also rub a little butter or fat over the breast, or cover it with a few slices of bacon a little colouring may be added to the gravy. This receipt is applicable to all kinds of birds, game, or poultry, allowing about ten minutes baking to every pound of large poultry or game, and the smaller ones in proportion.
;
pan,
if liked, or
minutes, according to
If
?oter's
baking STEWING-PA]^.
8S
To semi-roast a Joint with gravy only. Put in thtr pan hall a pint of water, together with half a teaspoonful of salt, haU that of pepper. When done, take off the fat, add a little colour^ ing, pour under the joint, and serve.
PIG.
Once or twice a year every cottager ought to kill a pig. If a pig is washed and kept clean, it softens the skin and allows it to expand ; in fact, a pig thus treated comes much quicker round ; it is proved that a pig at fourteen months, kept clean, is equal to one at eighteen which is not attended to. The same day some of the hver may be fried, but the rest can be used in the pan as follows
:
213. Cut
fry
it
frying-pan, cut
them
for
two ounces of fat or dripping into up a quarter of a pound of bacon into small dice, five minutes, and then shake over a teaspoonful of
into large dice; put
liver,
with one teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of add a gill of water, keep stirring, and put it into pan, with a pound of turnips cut in small dice, four onions cut in four, and half a pint of boiling water put into a slow oven for fifty minutes, and then serve with toasted sippets round the dish. A bunch of herbs. No. 451, may be added. Yeal, sheeps', lambs', and ox liver, and kidneys, may all be done the same way less time for lamb and more for ox ; any other vegetables may be used, and particularly mushrooms.
flour,
put in the
it
pepper, fry
six pounds of veal usually used for roasting, put half a pint of water in the tin, and potatoes above, and then the veal ; it will take two hours. When it is served, take off the fat from the gravy in the pan, and pour over the veal, reserving the fat for puddings. A piece of bacon and greens should be boiled at home, or a small piece of bacon may be placed with the potatoes ; dish the veal with the potatoes, and bacon round it or separate add a little colouring to gravy.
214.
it
Yeal,
Take
rub
with
salt,
A piece
^jiuce,
of veal stuffed
may
it
be roasted thus.
over.
make melted
Harvey
or ketchup,
and pour
215.
Toad
in the Sole.
either a
Get about two pounds of trimmings or lamb, not ^<^Q M, and cut them
84
egg season with sa4 and pepper, make about two quarts of batter, second class grease the pan well, put in the meat and batter, and place in a slow oven for nearly two hours, and serve hot.
into pieces, eacL. about the size of a small
Wo,
2,
with Potatoes.
Proceed
as before.
When
the pan
ii
ready put about two pounds of previously boiled potatoes, cut in slices, and bake as before.
Wo,
3, wit/i
Peas.
Proceed
maybe
Calves',
but
it
JVo. 5.
or
any
brains,
previously
parboiled
iu
water, and the skin removed, well seasoned with pepper and
salt,
and a few
slices
make
a very
delicate dish.
Wo. 6. Six larks or twelve sparrows, with a slice of bacon skewered round each, with the batter, and put into the oven foi
two hours.
JVo.
7. Ox
cheek and sheeps' heads, previously cooked and the addition of a little chopped onions
cooked potatoes
few
slices
of
liver, &c.,
rabbit for roasting, make a stuffing with the chopped up, bread-crumbs, beef-suet, and seasoning; lay on the bottom of the pan a thick slice of stuff the rabbit fat bacon, and over that a slice, one inch thick, of beefsteak, and then the rabbit, to which add wo quarts of batter place in the This is enough for a large oven for two hours, and serve hot. The rabbit may be cut in pieces; boiled cauliflower family.
Wo.
8.
Truss a
;
it
may
be added.
Wo. 9. Eemains of previously cooked hare may be isne in the same way, with some currant-jelly in the stuffing.
Wo.
10.
in slices,
and
four potatoes sliced, pepper and salt, and one quart of batter
put over
tbexrv
r^lace in
85
No, 11.Eemains of salt pork, or any roast meat, may all bfe done in this way, and varied according to the taste of the
partaker.
fish
may
also
Jugged JSare.
Cut
'
a pound of bacon into dice not too small, lay both on a dish, mix together three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four of flour, three of chopped onions, one of powdered
size of eggs, cut half
thyme and
grated
;
rub the hare and bacon with these ; place them in the Having saved the blood, chop up the Kver and mix with pan. it, add to it a wineglass of brandy, or two of port or sherry, or one of vinegar, or half a pint of ale, stout, or porter, and a pint of put this in the pan, and cover over with pudding-paste !No. 319 put on the cover shake the whole well to make it mix; and bake for three hours, if an old hare if a young one two hours. eaten hot, a little currantIt is equally as good cold as hot. jelly should be served with it. Some stuffing No. 456, made into little balls, can be added with advantage, or even a few suet balls, and two tablespoonfuls It can be done plainer, with of colouring mix with the water. salt and pepp- ^ 'nd water only or twenty small onions and eight potatoes, cut i.>i * 'ices, may be added, or even muslirooms may be put in.
water
;
;
217.
J
Jugged
ISare,
Marinaded.
It should be cut
as above,
and put
it
;
brown
thyme, a bay-leaf, cloves, peppercorns; turn them now and then for four days, and cook as above, with the marinade in.
218.
Take
1
i
to cook all kinds of Fish in Balcing ^tew-pan, pounds of any fish, cut it crossways, two inches thick, put them in the pan, with salt, pepper, chopped onions fill it up ; well intermix the seasoning ; when full, put in a basin four (Dunces of flour, which mix with a quart of water, which pour Dver, shake the pot, well cover it, bake two hours in rather a hot six
;
Sow
'
Qven ; seasoning to be four teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, Iwo onions, and chopped parsley ; onions may be omitted, but use
j^ !^;'W a^ud
mixed
spice.
86
soyee's baking stewing-pan.
Halibut, hake, ling, 'conger, cod, pike, carp, tencK, perch, and may be done the same way.
piper
Eice
may
way
little
two
ounces of butter, a squeeze of lemon, and put into the pan with
the
this
fish.
The
dish.
When
piece, if
possible.
219. Pieces of Fish.-^Yor a two-quart pan, cut four mackerel which roll in flour, place them in rows in
fennel or parsley
off the oil
the pan, two teaspoonfuls of salt and a half pepper, two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions
gills
;
may
be added
top.
put in two
of water, place cover over, bake one hour in a hot oven, and
serve,
having
first
taken
from the
220.
pan.
may be done as found to keep and eat admirably well Cut the mackerel into three pieces, enough to fill the onegallon pan, lay some at the bottom and season, and continue thus until full ; the seasoning should be four teaspoonfuls of salt, two of pepper, ten peppercorns, four onions sliced, a handful of parsley, chopped ; add over all one quart of vinegar and a pint of water place the cover over, and bake slowly for two hours j some sweet herbs or a bay -leaf may be added.
these
fish
When
and
To JPicHe
will be
plentiful they
follows,
221. Herrings, pilchards, and sprats can be done as above, only a little variation to the seasoning and the time of cooking, according to the size ; when quite cold pour some oil or lard on
the top
put the cover on, and keep out the and they will keep a long time.
;
air as
much as possible,
eel, plaice,
gurnet, codlings,
Cut be pickled as above. halibut one inch thick and three inches in length ; place thens
haddock,
all
may
pan
Cut
o'
full,
little tliyiiie
continue until
add a glass of
of chopped onions.
224.
Take the
oil off,
and
Piece of Beef stewed in 'Baking P6]{;^. Get three bone them, season with salt and pepper on each side to vary the flavour, chopped parsley and a little spice may b added, or even chopped onions roll it round, and fasten rub more salt on it, and place it in the pan it with string This send it to the baker's four pounds will take one hour. is the best part to bone, but most other pieces may be used. Stuff by making an incision in the lean part, and binding it up with string. 225. If you wish a Yorkshire pudding and potatoes to be baked at the same time, they may be placed in it, and when it comes home all will be found excellent. Instead of the gratings in the pan, it may be divided in two, one for pudding and thfe
wing
ribs of beef,
;
may
To Boil Meat in
of the thick ribs of beef, or any part, put in the pan, with a pint
salt, two bayleaves, two eschalots, or a little garlic ; stew three hours, either in oven or on the fire, keeping the cover well closed ; half an hour before being done add a teacupful of the raspings of bread, half a pint l>f vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, simmer, dish up, and sauce
over.
227. Salt Meat To plain-boil this in the oven, which can be done when no fire is required at home, put six pounds of salC beef into a six-quart pan, with four whole parsnips, two large carrots, and six dumplings; send them to the oven for two hours ; dish up the meat with the vegetables, and dumplings 'ound. The liquor can be saved and made into soup; tha Vegetables can be cut in two. All kinds of salt meat can be done the same. If the broth be too salt add some v^rater, and use for pe^-soup
SB
ON EOASTIKO.
ON ROASTma
My beab
1 did not
Eloiss,
My
last letter
mean that roasting before the fire should he entirely done away
with, but that, on the score of economy, it should not be practised in the cottage, but that my new plan of semi-roasting should be followed.
I was the more particularly led to these remarks, from having, last Sunday, immediately after church, visited several colliers' cottages belonging to a Mr. Pope, close to this place. My m.otive for doing so was to see the economy of the cottage, as well as the kind of food they had for dinner. The first I went into had a piece of the belly or flap of beef, just taken down from a dangle, having been roasted. It was lying in the dripping pan, and v/as a great deal over done ; in fact, dried. ISToticing, in the com'se of conversation, that the fire was spoiling it still more, I took a plate from the table, and placed it against it, so that it should not burn. The old lady noticed my proceeding, and asked me if I was going to have a bit of dinner with them ? " ISTo, thank you, my dear madam,^' replied I. " Then let me take av/ay the plate, as it will spoil our dinner .'* " How do
'* Well, the fat is not yet half vou make that out ?" I aslied. out of the meat, and my Thomas will not eat fat, unless it is
dripping in the crust of pies or puddings.*' I then perceived that the in their estimation, a second consideration, and that they paid the price of beef for the fat, paying eightpence per pound for the meat, when they could get the fat at livepence. There was scarcely any nutriment left in the meat that which weighed five pounds There before roasting, weighing hardly three pounds when done. were seven to dine off it the grandmother, the two parents, and four children. There was, besides, a few potatoes galloping on the fire no other vegetable, and no puddings or sweets for the children, but excellent home-made bread, and not bad small beer. You may now perceive that some little improvement in this style of cookery would be an immense saving to these cottagers, and out of the three shillings and fourpence they paid for the beef, if done in the pan, with a pudding and potatoes under, and the meat not quite so fat, they would have got a good dinner and plenty for the next day, either hot or cold. If they wanted dripping, they could get fat et four or fivepence, instead of eightpence, and prepare it as Noi It will keep for a long time, without turning sour. 464c. I visited, immediately after, several other of the cottages, inwhick I found steaks cooked dry, indeed, some half bur'nt, chumps of mutton lialf done, hJC legs of mutton neither boiled or baked ; in one a eheep's head baked, and very nicely done, with potatoes round it, which was very inviting ; there was also suet dumplings fo^ the chiidi'cn,.
meat was,
ON
witli treacle over.
ROASTI^Tlif.
89
This cottage was cleaner tlian any of the others, and the children were neatly di-essed, and about to change their In costume, in order to do full justice to the treacle dumplings. giving those rosy-cheeked urchins a few pence, I retired much gratified by my visit to these antediluvian workmen, w\^ pass one-third
Df their life in the bowels of the earth.
from what I have said, that to the artisan, and even the small tradesman, the old mode of roasting, which comes to us from Homeric ages and primitive times, is an extravagant and wasteful mode of cooking, and the sooner it Is reformed the better. Though it is preferable to meat done in a baker's oven,
You
will perceive
labourer,
if
first let me add one more remark on the experience of that Eeturning to the Normanton Hotel to dinner, we had a beautiful dish of greens; and what do you think those greens were? Green young nettles, which I had asked the gardener to gather for me the day previous, and in less than half an hour we had a basket full. I picked them with gloves, but he made a grasp at a large quantity, and I found that they did not prick him. He got them as fast as a monkey could get chestnuts out of hot cinders. The cook dressed them, according to my directions, exactly like spinach, and most who ate of them thought they were spinach, only rather too hot of pepper, which is their peculiar nature. I found that they are known in this part of the country as being good and wholesome in the spring ; but because the people can have them for nothing, they will not partake of them ; like the water? cresses, that rot in every clear stream in the neighbourhood. I intend to make another trial or so on the nettles, which I will forward to you.
But
day.
HOW
Having-, thus
far,
TO KOAST.
my
experience as regards
possible, describe the simple
plan of roasting before the fire, which, I must again repeat, is far from being economical. The artisan requires as much nourishment as possible, and should not pay extravagantly for fancy joints, or those called the best, because most in vogue for roasting. Let the wealthy pay for their taste, as they do for their Raphaels, Rubens, and Murillos : it is no reason, because they do so, that a labom^ing man should imitate them, and because one has a leg of mutton, the other should likewise have one. This very day I have seen, in Nottingham market, all the best joints sold by the butchers, and nothing but tho necks of mutton and the coarse pieces of beef left, which, they tell me, hang for days and days, lessening both quahty and quantity, and then are sold at twopence or threepence per pound. This caus^ the joints most in vogue to be dear, whilst there is auite as mufil?
roasting, I will, in as
few words as
90
^ourisiiment in proportion in
fresh.
when cooked
must
(Sitlier
by gas
(see note).
And
as
an invariable
rule,
dark meats, siich as beef and mutton, should be put down to a gharp fire for at least fifteen minutes, until the outside has a coating of osmazome or gravy, then remove it back, and let it do gently. Lamb, veal, and pork, if young and tender, should be done at a modera^te fire. Veal even should be covered with paper. Very rich meat, if covered with paper, does not require basting Fowls, &c., should be placed close to the fire, to set the skin, and in about ten minutes rubbed over with a small piece of butter, pressed in a spoon. Eoast meats should be dredged with flour, just at the time when the gravy begins to appear; the flour absorbs it, and forms a coating which prevents any more coming out. Hares and small game the same.
all
COTTAGE ROASTING.
the fire must be made up, and cleared from the dripping-pan, and from above the fire, suspend from a hook a piece of worsted thread, sufficiently strong to Have a piece of bear the joint, and a hook suspended at the end. stick forked at one end, which place against the mantle-piece, so that
In the
first place,
ashes.
Place before
it
Note.
made
at the Moyal
Naval
ly
M.
Soyer.
interesting trials have taken place at the above establishment with an apparatus manufactured by Messrs. Smith and Phillips^ patentees, of Skinner-street, Snow-hill, under the superintendence oi M. Soyer, which in their results fmally determine the question on the merits and economy of roasting by gas. The result of the first trial, which took place on the 8th inst., was, that 86 legs of mutton, weighing 288 lbs., were roasted at a
cost of 1^. 2d,
Two
In order to arrive at more positive results in regard to its economy u second trial was deemed requisite, which took plac on the lltb Twenty-threa mst., when equal weights of mutton were cooked. joints, weighing 184 lbs., were roasted by gas, at a cost of 10\d.f When cooked, the above ^ith gas supphed at 4<5. per 1000 feet. meat v*a8 found to weigh 145 lbs., dripping: 19 lbs., and weight
COTTAGE ROASTING.
it
91
two
keeps the thread at a sufficient distance from the fire. By having Twist the pieces of stick, the distances can be easily managed. worsted; pnt on the joint; give it a sufficient distance from the This is quite equal to either a smoke or bottle -jack for cottage fire.
use.
steel
so as to
be able to hang the joint at any distance from the Appendix:, at end of book.
fire.
See
Three ribs of beef, boned and rolled (see E"o. 207), well tied round with paper, will take two hours and a half, eighteen inches from the fire, and only baste once. If beef is very fat, it does not require basting ; if very lean, tie it up in greasy paper, and baste well.
229. Eight pounds of veal will take from one hour and a half
thus showing the actual loss to be mutton were cooked in the usual way, as adopted at the mstitution, namely, in one of Count Romford's ovens, hitherto considered the most economical way of roasting. When put in they weighed 184 lbs., when done 132 lbs., dripping 18 lbs., gravy none, thus showing a loss of 34 lbs. The coke conBumed in this oven was 102 lbs., coal 30 lbs., thus proving the great economy of gas over the oven by a saving of 13 lbs. of meat, 1 lb. of di'ipping, 2f lbs. of gravy. The value of the saving is as follows Meat at 6d. per lb., 6s. 6d.; dripping at 5d. per lb., ^d., and gravy at Is. 6d. per lb., 4?. l^d., making a total of 11^. O^d. The experiments took place before the governor. Sir C. Adam, and lady. Sir J. Liddle, M.D., Lieut. Rouse, general superintendent, Lieut. Monk, Messrs. Lee and Seville, inspector of works, v/ho expressed their admiration at the cleanliness and simplicity of tha
gravy, or osmazome, 2|lbs.,
18f
lbs.
Twenty -three
joints of
apparatus.
In order to show the advantage of the system in all its branches, steak was broiled by M. Soyer, before the company present, w^ho partook of it, and who declared it was perfectioDg and free from ill odour. Mechanics* Magazine,
rump
32
to
COTTAGB BOASTING.
eigliieen inches
from the
fire
if stuffed,
at least
Chump, or loin and kidneys, of four pounds, will take one hout and a quarter ; baste well. Six pounds of breast one hour, twelves inches from the fire. Six pounds of the shoulder or neck the same. Calf's heart, stuffed and tied up in paper, three quarters of an
hour.
hour and a from the fire. Saddle, ten pounds, one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half, eighteen inches, measuring from the flat surface. Shoulder, one hour and a half. Loin, one hour and a half. Breast, three quarters of an hour. Neck, one hour.
230.
(leg of eight pounds), will take one
half, eighteen inches
Mutton
231. Lamb, according to size, but in the same proportion less than mutton, but ought always to be w^ell done, and placed nearer the fire if a good fire about fifteen inches from it. Pork should be well done. Leg of six pounds, with skin over, two hours, eighteen inches from the fire. Loin of the same, one hour. Neck, the same weight, one hour and three-quarters. Pork rubbed with salt the night previous, and then scraped before roasting, improves the flavour. In roasting of beef, mutton, lamb, pork, and poultry, place a dripping-pan under the meat, with a little clear dripping or fat, which should be very hot when the meat is basted. A quarter of an hour before serving add half a pint of water to the fat in the dripping-pan dredge the meat with flom' and salt. When the meat is dished up, pour the contents of the pan into a basin, straining it through a gauze sieve kept on purpose ; remove all the fat, add a little colouring and salt to the gravy, and pour it into the dish under the meat. Yeal and poultry should have half the quantity of water put in the pan, and that, when strained, added to half a pint o} thick melted butter, adding two teaspoonfuls of any sauc** foi
; ;
ON BAKING MEAT IN
Mint swC8 with lamb.
Currant-jelly witli mutton.
OYE>^._
93
'
with, worsted,
Hang it up 232. Boasting of 'Poultry. \ proceed thus about ten inches from the fire, let it hang for ten
:
minutes to
set
into a
wooden spoon a
is
when
:
the skin
all is
very
Vviil
liot
rub
it
it
melted, then
draw
take
goose one hour, turkey, fourteen pounds, two hom^s and a half
I
of an hour.
JSTever baste
and a half, if very young tlu^ee quarters them, but dredge all, after having well
rubbed them over with butter, as for fowls. Small game should be placed nearer the fire. I always stuff both poultry and game with stufEng No. 4563 and make the gravy as for the joints. Apple sauce with goose. Currant jelly for hare. Fried bread-crumbs with grouse. Bread sauce v/itli partridge and pheasant.
system of cooking meat is far from receiving my approIbation, especiaily on the score of economy, still, it would be very r ridiculous on our part, Eloise, to tliinlv that we should be able entirely to reform this semi-barbarian method of spoiling food. No; lit must be a work of time that will prevent small folk from running tto the baker's on Sunday with either their legs or shoulders under their aarms. The reason why they have recourse to such a process is at once simple and easily explained: first of all, it gives them no trouble, and hardly any of them study economy, so long as the dinner will cook itself, though, in company with a score or two 01 oother joints, perhaps no two being of the same size or quality. How can a baker, even one of the most conscientious of that useful c class of individuals, be answerable for the proper cooking of this aawkward squad, if such we may term it. How also can he prevent tithe potatoes galavanting from one dish to anotlier, or even joints elchanging dishes, and by mistake, going to the wrong home impossible Is he to be answerable if an eel crawls out of Mrs. Armstrong's pie (having been put in whole), and, after cooking, being I found reposing under one of Mrs. Smith's ribs ? or can he prevent ^Mrs. Jenkhis's cod's head staring a neighbouring pig's face out of
Though
this
il
9^
OK BAicma meat ik
oysi.^.
No more would he be able to obviate the above evils, coiintenaRce ? than he could disentangle the fragrance v/liich emanates from eacli homely volcano, forming, as it does, an aerial coating of osmazoma under the same roof. Moral. Is it not more easy for a mother to nurse her own child, than having to take charge of the whole of her neiglibonrs' children? therefore, if every housewife would cook her little family dinner at home, instead of entrusting it to the nursing care of a baker's oven, she would, by so doing, though at the sacriiice of a little time, savo both nutriment and money.
the subject of ameliorating this tend both to economize and vary the flavour, ^s well as the substance, of any dish that might be doomed to undergo this ordeal.
First of
joints,
evils caused by the abovebound to give a few hints on wasteful method of cooking, w^hich
all, I v/ould refer you to such receipts on semi-roasting such as beef, veal, mutton, pork, and lamb, done in the bakingstewing-pan, and proceed in this instance precisely the same. In respect to vegetables, puddings, rice, &c. &c., being anxious that every person should partake of a portion of vegetation with their daily food, independent of potatoes, I have tried all the following receipts, which I beg to forward you, feeling confident they will prove agree^.^^ to our readers* palate, as well as conducive to their health.
AN IMPEOVED BAKING-DISH.
(For drawing of wliich see Appendix at end of loolc)
BEG to irform you that I have had made, at a very trifling expense, an improved baking-dlsh. Its prinr^nles are as follows on the rim of the dish, I have attached a move^-Je false grating of wire, to the middle of which is fixed a trivet, three inches in height. I then put the pudding at the bottom of the dish, then put in the grating, on v/hich By this ,X place the potatoes ; then on the trivet I put the meat. means the surplus fat, which would otherwise fall in the pudding and prevent its setting, descends on the potatoes, making them deliThis is applicable to any joint, and the meat being cate and crisp. more elevated than usual when placed in tlie oven, causes it to partake m.ore of tlie fiavour of a roast joint than it does when put unmediately over the pudding or potatoes, the vapours arising from which soddens the meat, instead of leavinja; it broi/^m and well
I
:
carbonized.
OH IIAKiKG MEAT IK
OVEI?r.
'M
lean,
2.
may
For a Leg of
;
twelve potatoes
dish,
the m.eat over give fifteen minutes to every pound of meat. Half a pint of sage and onion sauce may be poured over the apples and onions previous to baking. Any joint of pork may De stuffed with sage a-id onions.
?i.
Fillet oj
Prepare
fillet,
which
two
slices four
little celery, if
veal
handy, a little thyme and bay leaf; wrap up the and the above in the paper, and bake for two hours when done, take out the veal and serve with vegetables round it. It v/ili be delicious pray let me know your opinion. Any part of veal may be done the same. Fried baccn iray be serv<^ with it.
; ;
95
OK BAKING MEAT
OTM,
Also lialf a pint of melted butter, one tablespoonful of ketclmp, two of Harvey's sauce, well mixed pour round and serve.
;
4.
To hake Mutton
Proceed
size, putting under a Yorkshire pudding, or some rice boiled with curry in it, or boiled French haricot beans, which I have I also put a piece of puddingused for a change now and then. paste, half way up the knuckle of a leg of mutton, which prevents it getting dry, that being so much thinner than the other
part.
Loin and shoulder the same ; if a piece happens to be lean and dry, butter it over, cover it with paste, and bake as usual. The shoulder, baked, like the leg of pork, is good with apples, potatoes, and onions.
5.
pound
minutes per minutes Spinach, peas, asparagus, and sprouts, are best with
delicate, allow
only ten
same
lamb. All kinds of poultry may be done the same, though roast them by all means, if you can ; but if wrapped up in paper, as for
fillet
it will
be excellent baked.
6.
My
:
new plan
as follows
Scrape,
of cooking
wash, and
them
them
them
at
the bottom of your dish, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, add half a pint of coloured w^ater, then
place the potatoes
trevet,
and
bake as
above."^
fat or
* In the way of vegetables for beef, I have tried turnips, Jeruealem artichokes, parsnips, &c. Also for veal, lamb, and mutton, Bpinach, greens, cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts, all parboiled and well drained. pint of second class batter, added to either the parsnips, artichokes, turnips, carrots, peas, asparagus, &c., using only one pound
mstcad of two, but quite boiled, and omitting the gravy, either these win turn out like a pudding.
cA
MKAT PUDCINGa
butter
5
97
taking
it
it
np
off the
or separata.
Another Way,
If an ordinary
the carrots, also a few onions sliced, and the beef on trevet, as usus-L
When the meat has been too lean, put a piece of fat on the top, and cover the beef with a coating of pudding-paste, No. 319. When done remove the paste, and brown the meat with a shovel, like you would do venison ; both meat and paste are excellent, the meat being full of gravy.
MEAT PUDDINGS.
the same v/ord with the sama European languages, yet it may properly be said to be peculiarly English, as pudding has become quite a national dish. The various counties of England have each a particular way of ma,king them, and it is almost impossible to give any method hitherto untried. The first most important point is never to use any meat that
233. Puddinas.
Although
meaning
exists in all
is
tainted,
for
in pudding, above
all
other dishes,
it is least
undergo
which the ingredients the gradual heating of the meat, which alone would
meat to contaminate all the rest. Be particular that the suet and fat are not rancid, ever remembering the grand principle, that ever3rfching which gratifies the palate nourishes. Tainted meat, you will justly say, is bad in whatever way it may be cooked true, but take a joint which, in the middle of summer, from some trifling cause, has some small part a little tainted, and which is ofton sold cheap to those who cannot afford
;
to purchase better, this, by the worst part being cut away, rubbed with a piece of charcoal, if for roasting, or a piece of charcoal put into the water, if for boiling, at once renders it sweet but our great national dish cannot be subjected to this
;
some may like and possibly might lilve the same in pudding, yet is our duty here to point out those things which are nourishing, and likewise those that are not; therefore, I here send you some receipts which will please everybody's taste, everybody's palate, and, I
process.
all
people differ
'*^.
98
234.
MEAT PUDDINGS.
^eef Pudding.
;
steak, cut
it
and then slantwajs at each inch, instead of in lumps but should you buy cuttings of meat from the butchers, then remove all the sinew and over fat, and cut the large pieces slantways, put them in a dish, and sprinkle ver with a teaspoonful of salt, a half ditto of pepper, and a tea;gpoonful of fiour, the same of chopped onions mix well together, make six or eight ounces of paste as No. 319, roll it to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, or a little more, put pud ding- cloth in a basin, sprinkle some flour over it, lay in your paste, and then the meat, together with a few pieces of fat when full put in three wineglasses of water turn the paste over the meat, so as not to form a lump, but well closed then tie the boil it cloth, not too close on the paste, or it will not be light fast in four quarts of v/ater for one hour take it out, let it stand a few minutes to cool the cloth, cut the string, turn back the cloth, place a dish on the top, and t\irn it over on it, remove the cloth, and serve.
iengthways in three
pieces,
; ; ; ; ;
235.
If
you choose
to
add a kidney
it
may add
to the
mushroom.
The
pudding quite perfect, the paste as light and as white as snow, and the meat tender, with a thick gravy.
236.
It
Observation.
surprised that I
recommend
meatj.-
being enclosed in the paste, and sometimes in a basin, is alone subject These puddings lose a to the action of simmering in its own gravy. less amount of nourishment in cooking than any other kind. In a This may truly bo large pudding a few sliced pota,toes is not bad.
considered as
much
and being
gestible
:
so, it is
surprising that
so often
the pieces of meat and fat often ; the pudding, sometimes left half out of the water, the crust becomes hard and black, and the meat very -dry.
237.
Any remains
it well,
may
mince about one pound of cooked meat, cut in dice, put on a dish, add one teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, one of ilour; fill 3^oui paste with it, add a gill of
be done as follows
tie it
up
in a cloth,
MEAr PUDDINGS.
snd
boil for half
99
chopped onioB^ af
an hour, and
serve.
A little
parsley
may
be introduced.
238. Another Way. Proceed as above, only add for ^7ery pound of meat two ounces of either gherkins, pickled v/alirjits or mushrooms, chopped fine or sliced.
239. Mince Beef Fudding with Bggs. Proceed as ^bove % omit the pickles, adding boiled ham or fried bacon instead, cut in dice, also add two hard-boiled eggs cut in dice; mix all together , boil as above, white sauce over, or melted butter.
240. Veal
TudJAng.
;
gill
of water ; proceed as for the other puddings, boil two hours, and
serve.
Soak
an
tea-
spoonful of
vinegar, if handy.
in, half-
Let
inch
it
slices,
little
salt, pepper, parsley, and a chopped onions continue until full then mix a teaspoonful of flour with a gill and a half of milk, or water, and pour in close the pudding, and boil one hour and serve. Cut it with a
knife.
Two
little
gherkin, chopped
it
also
Proceed
cooking.
and Tongue.
brain
little
curry powder
added will improve it. This will produce a better effect on the table as a padding, than a common hash for the great principle in cookery is to
;
244.
Lamh,
Veal, or
one poimil
100
^1 liver in glices?, also
MIJAT
PtfBBIIirGS,
parsley;
ft-.niie
mix
liour,
it well with the bacon, dip each piece of liver in and lay the liver and bacon in the pudding, with a
gill
and a half of water ; boil one hour. A teaspoonful of colouring mixed with the water will give a rich appearance to all
pudding gravies.
245. The same, a plainer Wa^. Cut one pound of liver and two ounces of bacon into dice, a quarter of an inch square; season with only salt, pepper, and onions, a spoonful of flour, and a gill and a half of water lay it in the pudding, and boil as before. StufEng No. 456 may be mixed with it.
;
246. Liver
put
it
on the
when the
and stir round until it is set each piece should be firm then add a tablespoonful of flour, mixed with a gill and a half of When nearly boiling, place it in the coloured water, No. 453a. pudding, tie up, and boil three quarters of an hour. A few herbs
is
a variation.
247.
to
Mutton Fiidding,
into pudding,
it is
make
in case
very
fat,
Chump of mutton is the best part which cut in slices as for beef pudding | add potatoes, and proceed the same.
Trotters, previously cooked,
248. Sheep's
may
be made into a very nice pudding, proceeding as usual. few pickled walnuts, sliced, may be added.
249.
;
and remove the big have some veal stufiing veady, and lay the meat and stufiing in alternate layers in the pudding, with a gill and a half of water to every pound boil one hour and a half; serve with melted butter over the pudding, and a little chopped parsley on the top ; it has an inviting efiect. Any part of the lamb may be done the same way.
breast,
;
Lamh Pudding.
it
Take the
bones
cut
possible
JPudding. Get about a pound of pork, as lean as any cuttings v/ill do cut them into slices season with a little chopped sage, a teaspoonful ol' salt, half of pepper; roll the pieces up, and put them in the pudding with a ftw slices.
250;
; ;
Porh
MEAT
sf potatoes,
PUBDlNri^l
;
101
sover as usual,
and
pound of bacon, sliced ; seasc-n and if for a numerous family, a/ld ten potatoes and four onions, sliced, and half a pint of water boil Boiled rice may be added for two hours, or according to size. instead of potatoes. Well intermix the meat with the vegetables
eighteen pieces, and a quarter of a
in proportion to size, as before,
;
or rice.
252. Cliicken JPudding. Cut one into eight pieces, half a pound of bacon, cut into slices ; season with one teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, two of chopped parsley, a little thyme, and one captain's biscuit, well broken; fill the pudding with the taeat, add half a pint of milk, boil for one hour and a half; serve with melted butter over, and chopped parsley on the top. 253. "Pigeon 'Pudding. Pluck, draw, and stuff two pigeons with the stuffing No. 456 ; then cut some large thin slices of beef, and some of the bacon ; season well roll the pigeons in the meat And bacon, lay them in the pudding boil four eggs hard, cut them into quarters, and fill the cavities with them mix a teaispoonful of flour with half a pint of milk, or water, close up, and boil for one hour and a half, and serve.
;
ing, a little
The same in Broion Gravy. Add a tablespoonful of colourmore salt and pepper. Young wood-pigeons may be done the same way, but will
it
for ten
minutes,
let
it
oE
lay
some
cabbage in the pudding, paste as usual, season the partridge, and lay it in with six or eight button onions, then tlie remainder of
the cabbage, a gill of
'i
2, or coloured water,
453 A
boil
two hours,
half, if
No. young.
255. Young "Rooh Pudding. If these young inhabitants of tthe woods and forests are eatable in pies, I do not see why we ehould not give them, after their \rild career, a soil bed of rex^ose
B
102
in a
MEAT PUDDINGS.
pudding
crust.
Open them
;
"by
divide
them
into two,
and season
a stuiSng
with
Vv^ith
salt,
pepper, and a
grated ginger
make
Lay on the
;
of steak
mushrooms
add a
half,
gill
of ale, or
Pigeons
256.
may
boil one
and
serve.
Fish Fudding, Take two pounds of cod fish, cut in about the size of five-shilling pieces, half an inch thick fill the bowl with the paste, as usual, lay some of the fish on the bottom, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley, onions, a little flour and pieces of the liver, if any, then the fish, and
slices
add a gill of milk or water, shake it well, tie up, and serve, A little bay leaf and thjme may be added, if handy. All fish may be done the same way, varying the flavour
60 on until full
;
and
according to taste.
257. Fish Tudding,
fish in small pieces,
little
a plainer Way.
flavour
mix
well,
of water, and
you have a wine-glass full of any up, boil one hour, and serve.
if
fish sauce,
add
it,
cover
258.
Macherel Fudding,
Cut
off the
fill ^\q> pudding with the pieces, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped onions and fennel, add a gill of water, boil one hour, and serve with
259.
Fel Fudding,
Cut in long
;
pieces,
gill
season wiib
?
salt,
add a
of water
wine or
teer
is
My
excellent friend,
jou must be of
you
will
the same opinion as the rest of the world, namely, that variety
is
life,
therefore
Hot object to
my new
proposal to send
it
to the baker's;
when
is
not required,
::i
MEAT
dnl}'
PIES,
103
when
make the
out another piece about a quarter of an inch thick, put it over when fit, and cut away the trimmings from the edge of the
egg it over, bake in a slow oven, giving about the same time as you would for boiling; when done, shake the basin well, to make the gravy the same thickness throughout, and serve, turning it out on a dish ; perforate the top.
basin,
Puddings half steamed and boiled. Put in a pan a when boiling, put your basin in with the pudding in it, boil gently one hour or more, according to what your pudding is made of; add boiling water occasionally, so as always
261.
quart of water,
to keep the
pot.
By
having previously
by passing a knife between the paste and the basin, you may turn or cut it out, and pour They may also be steamed, over any appropriate sauce you like.
done,
acj
when
now almost every kitchen possesses steam pans, in connexion with the boiler of the range ; or put some water in our new baking-pan, put in the pudding, and send to the oven.
IMPOETANT OBSEEVATIOirS ON THE ABOVE EECEIPTS.
I must not forget to teU you, Eloise, that any of the above sort of puddings, no matter what made of, if sweet or savoury, is preferable made in a basin to being put in a cloth, whica is often very dirty
in appearance
;
a cloth, would evaporate If you wish to turn it well out, thoroughly grease the inside of your basin when making.
by neglect
it
ceases boiling.
On Pudding Cloths, A pudding cloth, however coarse, ought never to be washed with soap; it should be dried as quickly as possible, and kept dry and free from dust, and in a drawer or cupboard free from smell.
MEAT
PIES.
Peeviotts to making any pie do not omit reading the very important remarks I have made at the introduction of fruit yiss, see Index.
262. Beefsteak Pie. Cut two pounds of steak into about twenty thin pieces, lengthways, fat included, season them witk Iwo teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, and a little chopped lierbs. and place them symmetrically on the dish, forroir-ig it high.
104
MEAT
PlEla.
Add half a. pint of water, in wKicK has been put in tlie centre. two tablespoonfuls of colouring. Cover over with paste (No. 317) half an inch thick, and bake for one hour in a slow oven. Pudding paste No. 319 may be used. For variety of pie-dishes see
appendix.
A
fit
A few
in
slices,
likewise a change.
Take and cut two pounds of Jeef two pounds of potatoes, a quarter of a pound of onions
salt,
it
weU
alternate layers;
and bake
Delicate
veal and ham pies can be made up the veal and a little ham, or bacon,
little stuffing, if
handy.
Pork
pies
may
roll
265. Bahlit
Cut
of
the
rabbit
(No. 251)
dish,
with some
ham
or bacon;
tea^
jspoonful of curry
be added, instead of pepper. iFor family rabbit pie proceed as for family steak
may
pie.
way
as for puddings,
and
267. Sare Pie. If it is a large hare it is best to jug it, as No. 216, cut in half crossways. Save the back and legs foi roasting, and with the front part, which cut in pieces, make the pie. Put some steak at the bottom of the dish, with sali^
pepper, and chopped onions
;
them on the
steak,
make some
;
more steak
add
half-
finish
tbft
When
baked, shak
gravy.
The
jellj,
is
a great
The Artisan's Tie.Aiaj pieces of meat, but not too^ fat to every pound of meat is enoagli. Take two pounds of meat cut in slices, season it with three teaspoonfat
four ounces of
fuls of salt,
which place
oil
the bottom of
;
the dish, thea a layer of potatoes, then the meat add a pint of water, and bake for two hours.
season well
Trimmings of meat of
all
kinds
may
be purchased in every
large town, especially in London, and are the proper pieces for
such economical pies ; in buying them, take care there is none tainted, as it will produce the effect as described in introduction.
of puddings.
269.
Poor
Mans
them
Fotatoe Pie.
in slices
;
six
pounds
of potatoes, cut
mutton
whole with a teaspoonful of pepper and three of salt; cover and bake on^ hour and a half. with paste, No. 317 A bloater, boned and cut up with the fat, makes a nice
change of flavour.
VEGETABLES.
As I have before remarked, the food of man, in order to give proper nourishment, should be often varied; in fact, his health depends upon it, and nature seems to have given him those instruments, the teeth, by which he is enabled to masticate both animal and Vegetable food, besides having provided him abundantly with vegetable /Produce, which seems the )alance, in point of health, between that and rich animal food. It is to be regretted that the labouring poor of this country do not partake of more vegetables than they do at present. If we travel over the country, we are surprised to find jhow small a portion of ground is engaged in horticulture ; the con sequence is that, excepting near large towns, scarcely a vegetable is to be obtained, and the poor are doomed to live almost entii'ely om bread and cheese and a small portion of animal food, not even a potatoe is to be had during the winter and spring of the year. It is said by some, thafc the climate being colder than on the continent, the blood requires more heating food, and that in the summer the English are as much vegetable eaters as their neighbom's ; if such
'
106
is tlio
tEOETABLES.
case, wliy not, then,
tlicJn,
that animal food does. The most important of all the produce of the field is wheat, hut that we shall treat of hereafter, under the head of bread. The most important of vegetable produce is the potato, a root the failure of whose growth produced a famine in one of the most productive countries in the world. It is a root in universal use, and yet is acknowledged to be by every one the least understood how to be cooked. writer ill a public journal, the other day, speaking of a well-boiled
is
it
has never
man."
If you ask
My
mother, or
my
sister,
did
so,
And
so with everybody,
little thinkino: that almost every potato differs ; even the produce of the same seed will often differ in the same field. This is caused by the different soils, and the different manures applied to those soils. The present potato is quite a different root from its parent one, which grows in the Caribbean islands. Animal food, although flesh, differs in its nature, and requires different cookery. A Welsh or a Kerry leg of mutton requires to be treated quite different to a Leicestershire or Southdown. Thus it is with the potato. Some require quick boiling, others elow ; some plenty of water, others little ; some are best baked in their skins, others peeled ; some large ones require to be cut in two, others will spoil if cut ; and so on through all the various gradations, I therefore consider it requisite, that if a potato is found not to be good by one system of boiling or steaming, to try another Boiling, as I have said before, is the most simple process of cookery,
and
it is easily tried.
potatoes,
Meg Dods
as
ol
many ways
mends
Mrs. Eundell prefers boiling in preference to steaming. steaming, or, if boiled, in plenty of water, and when half done, some cold water and salt thrown in, and boil until not quit
done, and then left in the pot near the fire.*
* This
as
it
is
au
gliealeacJi, is that,
way (if he wishes to fast for six hours]^ moon in it. The origin of the word in Irisl^ when a half-cooked potato is cut in two, the
a disk, with a halo around it, like the moon. This does not digest so quick, and allows the person who eats it to s,t longer without food, which I consider a great detriment to the coatiDf
2entre shows
of the stomach.
I
VEGETABLES*
Mrs. Gksse says, Boil in as
little
107
way
this
is,
peeled
when
pot shook violently for some time, so that they are broken.
She
is
not economical.
Bystem.
is only right I should give n^y ideas. they all, perhaps, require a different If steamed, salt should be thrown into the water, and
when
270.
I
How
to
choose Potatoes.
Observe,
as a general rule,
when they
are too full in the eye they are either of an inferior quality, or
piece from the thickest
To ascertain if they are sound, nip a end with your finger nail if good, the
;
to the sort
and quality ;
if,
may
be
prove
t
fit
for
by cutting a little ojff the outside they may boiling though they ought to be bought, when in
;
cheap rate. Potatoes always get ba.d in the spring of the year, as then the old ones are going out, and the new ones for some time continue to possess but little flavour,
this state, at a
and are watery when boiled. The old ones ought to be peelecf and steamed, and mashed, or baked in an oven, under a joint, or fried in fat, as No. 298 for when done whole in their skins.
;
at this time of the year, the slightest spot spoils their flavour,
tasteless
much
better cooked
when put
when put
in cold,
271.
I
If
boiled, it
may be that they require to be put into may be, in cold, and either boiled quick or slow,
but this you must find out. Choose all about the same size, with a smooth skin, and when they are boiled and begin to cracli^ throw off the water immediately, as it only damages the root Stand near the fire, with a cloth on, and serve in skin. Salt should be put into the water at the beginning. watery
water,
K very watery,
and they
will
108
put
is
VEGETABLES,
t'iiem liito tlie
fill
and they
v/iil
Should be cleaned, and the skin rubbed with a coarse cloth ; add a little salt if the skin is dry. Put them into very hot water, and boil from fifteen to twenty
off
minutes.
Take them out of the water and let them drain some salt over them. If very
American oven, before the fire, they they will take from one and a half to two hours. If without their skins, they should be done in a brown pan with fat, turning them occasionally.
touch
;
or if in a
Duch
or
Take a
having boiled twelve middling and remove the eyes or specks put them into a bowl, and take two forks in one hand, with the points of the prongs turned outwards break the potatoes up with them ; when breaking, add En ounce of butter and a gill of milk or a little more to them, and half a teaspoonful of salt, to every pound, and a pinch of pepper; they should be beat a great deal, until they become quite light they should never be hard like paste, as is often ihe case when stirred with a spoon. Potatoes, if large, might be peeled, and cut in foiir pieces, put in boiling water with some salt, boiled rather fast, and well drained v/hen done; let the pan stand near the fire to dry youi three minutes will do it and mash them as above, potatoes
^After
sized potatoes until mealy, peel them, if with the skins on,
276. NetD
Poaded
Potato.
preferred
a large potato
fat.
VEGETABLES.
and dredged with a
the oven, or
oven, until done
;
109
before the
and pepper, and put into an American or Dutch they ought to be of a nice brovirn colour, and
little flour,
fire,
salt
either in
277. Jerusalem ArticJiolce should be well washed and peeledi and put into a saucepan of tiiarm water, with salt in it ; boil till tender, then serve them up if to be mashed, mash thern at once, with salt, pepper, and butter if whole, keep them covered until Melted butter over improves the look. served. They may be mashed with a little gravy put in a dish, bread- crumbed over, and put in the oven, and are very nice. Or they can be treated in every v/ay like turnips.
; ; ;
Peel them, and boil in plenty of water, in 278. Turnips, which has been put some salt boil till tender, and serve either If mashed, they should be put in a saucepan whole, or mashed. over the fire, with a bit of butter, or some milk, salt, and a little pepper, and a pinch of sugar, mashed up until rather dry, and serve. A few capers mixed in the mashed turnip, is an improvement
;
!
279. Swedes.
1
little
when M. Soyer
prepared
it
way
like turnip,
fit
It should be treated in every but cut into quarters for boiling. The middle
280. Carrot
\
This root
varies quite as
much
as the potato
some are quickly done, even in twenty minutes, and some require two hours. Tkey should be scraped, aixd boiled in water and
salt
;
281.
I
Farsnip and
the WJiite
Carrot,
The
same
as the
tarrot.
282. Bed and WTiite Beet These should be washed, Dut not scraped, and put into the pot with the skin on ; when done,
\
which is known by pressing the thick part, to or by probing it with a skewer remove the
slices,
little
see if
it
is
it
soft,
skin, cut
into
put
it
and a
is
-'^Iso
up. and
serv
It
\.
good wbftn
110
VEGETABLES?.
FIKST
OJB
283. Asparagus is a vegetable between the root and the plant; and requires more cooking, like the latter. It should be well scraped at the bottom part, tie them up in bundles of not more than twelve heads, have ready a pot of water, say three quarts for every hundred heads, in which you have placed one tablespoonful of salt, and if the water is hard half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda; if they are a good size boil for twenty minutes, and serve with a slice of toasted bread under, and melted butter separate, or cream sauce No. 424. This, when cold, is very good with oil and vinegar, salt and
pepper.
The
broken small in
clear soujp,
284. Celery.
Dress
like
asparagus,
;
brown gravy
Sea Kale,
and serve
the same on toast, with either melted butter or cream sauce over.
285.
Doiling
require well
;
These
salt
close-leaf plants
These proportions will do for all vegetables. large they should be cut in four.
These 286. Sprouts, Spring Greens, Turnip Tops, Sfc. only require washing before boiling, and boil till tender in the game quantity of water as above.
287. Stetved Cabbage or Savoys.
drain,
Cut
free
and
boil
till
tender; drain
them
a clean pot two ounces of butter or fat, pepper ; when hot add the cabbage, and stir
inta
an(J
dry, then throw over a tablespoonful of flour, keep stirring, and then add a cupful of either broth, milk, or water let boil ten
;;
VEGETABLES.
288. Spinach requires
to be well washed,
11^*
and tKe
stalks
take out, drain, press with the Hands or plate to remove the water, and serve it as plain greens or put it on a clean board, and chop it fine, put it in a stew-pan,
water as above for ten minutes
;
with a quarter of a pound of good butter or fat, a teaspoonful of salt, two of flour, half of pepper ; place it on the fire, with two gills of milk or broth, for a few minutes, and serve with toast round. More strong gravy may be added, or even milk or cream.
289. Green JPeas, This, of all the pulse vegetables, is th^ most liked, and the most in use; and perhaps in no country in Europe can they be obtained in the same perfection as in England. The water should be boiling, and say one quart of peas to two quarts of water, with the same amount of salt as before put the peas in, leave the cover off, and boil till tender drain, and serve, with a piece of butter put on the dish. If mint or savory is liked, add it while boiling.
;
290.
Broad
is
or
Windsor Beans,
The
it is
appearance of this
vegetable
bacon ; they ought to be boiled alone like the peas, and very They should be served fast, and if young do not take longer. with parsley and butter. When the skin is wrinkled they are
done.
291.
them them
cut
Head,
tail,
or in the middle,
into boiling water, in which a little more salt has been put ; boil for fifteen minutes, and serve either plain or with parsley and butter, and a little pepper and salt.
These are skins of the pulse, and are considered exceedingly wholesome for persons who take much exercise, and eat freely of animal food ; they purify the salt of the blood,
292. Brocoli and Cauliflower should be put in salt and water some time before cooking, and require olose examination
that no insects are inside
; cut oif the root and the large leaves / tney should be boiled in boiling water, and will take about ten rmnutes. There are a variety of ways of using these vegetables,
but in general a
little
llir
VEGETABLES.
293. Calif
or
Boil two
this well
three
middle-sized cauliflowers,
make
cayenne pepper,
handy, grate
mix
with the sauce, and when boiling pour over the cauliflower or brocoli; set either in an oven or before the fire for fifteen minutes, until it gets brown ; the yolk of an egg may be added
bread-crumb over, and serve. If no grater, cut your cheese fine, melt in boiling. Jerusalem artichokes, Scotch kail, and Brussels sprouts, are also very nice done this way.
it will
name
they were intended for spring feeding for sheep, during the lambing them as human food. I asked him to let me have some to try and see how they eat. He did, and I cooked them like greens; and an exceeding nice vegetable they are. They are also good stewed, and cooked with a piece of bacon. As they grow at a time of the year when other green vegetables are They are sown scarce, I consider them a valuable article of food. about April, the small plant put out about October, and planted about three feet apart, and by March or April the whole field will be one
luxuriant crop of greens.
Farmers
would
that time of year they are in full bloom, and are called by the above singular name in consequence of the thousands of heads conThe plant covers nearly one yard tinually sprouting fi'om their root. in circumference, and bears no resemblance to any other green I recollect seeing, not even to Brussels sprouts.
At
294. Saricots
easier done, tlian
tage in
and Lentils. No receipt is more simple, or any of these vegetables ; there is hardly a cotFrance but what has them in stock, as they wiU keep
good for years. Should you be short of potatoes, or supposing they are expensive, or even as a change, some of these are an excellent substitute ; one quart will m^ke, when cooked, four pounds of solid
food.
YEGETABLIf,
Haricots, plain boiled, should be
first
113
was6e5, tben put into the
Mack iron pot one quart of them, with four quarts of cold water, one ounce of butter or fat boil them gently for three hours, or
;
i'lll
tender
if
the haricots
remainder; mix in a pint of it three teaspoonsful of flour, half ditto of pepper, add it to the haricots; ho'J. for ten minutes, keep stirring, and serve, adding three teaspoonfuls of salt ; an ounce of butter is an improvement.
are
good; draw
A
tame
little
meat of any kind may be cooked with them, just the and four
Quions in
may
The
broth, if ample,
it.
when
strained
295. Lentils.
I
Wash
them
as haricots,
;
as
Buch, putting
but try
fchem,
cold water
Meat
is
and they make good soup. These make an excellent salad, both in winter and summer.
See Index.
The
:
liquor of either
makes a nutritious soup, by adding fried and salt, and poured over bread
put them into plenty twenty minutes, or a little longer, drain them, put them on a board and chop them up, and either serve plain, or put them in the pan with a little
296. Nettles.
well, drain,
Wash them
salt,
roast; or add to a
little fat and gravy from a pound two teapoonsfuls of flour, a gill of skim milk, a teaspoonful of sugar, and serve with or without
poached eggs. This extraordinary spring production, of which few know the ralue, is at once pleasing to the sight, easy of digestion, and at a time oi the year when greens are not to be obtained, invaluable as a purifier of the blood ; the only fault is, as I have told you above, Eloise, they are to be had for nothing i it is a pity that dildren are not employed to pick them, and sell them in market
(towns*
114
VEGETABLES.
of the
Another unused vegetable is mangel wurze\. I'lie young leal mangel wurzel, cleaned and cooked as above, is extremely
good*
In all my various visits to cottages during this spring, I have found but one where either of the above vegetables were in
use,
and that belonging to a gardener, who knew their value. These nettles are good during five months of the year ; for
even
when
is
They make
excellent tea,
which
296a. Sweet Docks, also a wild vegetable, or weed, are very good when done as follows, using about two-thirds of sweet dock, and one-third of nettles, boiled with a little carbonate of soda, "When done, strain them, and to about one pint basin full, add one onion sliced and fried, a sprig of parsley, a little butter, pepper, and salt put into a stewpan on the fire, stir, and gradually add when you think the meal has been suffia handful of oatmeal ciently boiled, dish up and serve as a vegetable.
;
One quart of peas, soak for put into a pan with one gallon of water, some fat, six sliced onions, one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, one of pepper; simmer for two or three hours, or till tender, drain the peas, then add to them half a pound of flour, mixed in a pint
297.
twelve hours
salt,
a quarter of a pound of
Small dumplings
hour.
may
be boiled in
it
298.
into
Fried Potatoes.
slices,
:
Peel a
pound of
potatoes, cut
them
put some fat into a frying-pan when very hot, but not burning, throw the slices in, not too many at a time, as they will stick together ; move them about with a skimmer, to prevent it. When a nice brown colour,
very thin almost shavings;
take them out, and sprinkle some salt over; serve them up
separate, or over broiled meat.
Two
in the pan.
299.
or six
Fried Coolced Potatoes. Let the fat in your frying when smoking hot, add in five potatoes, cut crossways in thin slices, letting them bf
;
* The best v/ay to pick nettles is to quickly grasp a handful, feel no sensation of pain, or by wearing^ glovew.
fc'j
EGGS.
previously (Ined in a cloth
;
il5
;
stii;
with a spoon
take
it
them
out, drain
and
dish
Ihem, sprinkling a
EGGS.
These, from the earliest records we have, have always been s favourite food, with the exception of a short time in Greece, where
a few philosophers endeavoured to make the people refrain from eating them, as they stated that they contained the four elements of
the world.*
They
when
although there are some stomachs which reject them. They can be employed in almost every dish with advantage, and one weighing two ounces contains nearly the same amount of nourishment as an ounce of meat and an ounce of hread ; therefore when eggs are eighteen for a shilling, equal to two pounds four ounces, they are not a very dear article of food.
boiled too hard;
good and fresh, candle them, as it is hold them upright hetween the thumh and finger of the right hand before a candle, and with the left hand shade the eye, by which means you will be enabled to detect any spots that may be in them ; if a few white spots only, they will do for puddings, &c. ; if a black one, throw it away, as it is perfectly bad. If light and transparent, they are fresh.
300.
;
To
called
that
to cook,
This is the most simple of all things 301. I^^ffs Plain Boiled. and yet is the least attended to ; and I am never surprised.
* Singular Ideas of the Ancients in relation to JS'^/j',?.Orpheus, good and humane people as ever Pythagoras, and their sectators lived unceasingly recommended in their discourses to abstain from eggs, in order not to destroy a germ which nature had destined for the production of chicken. Many allowed themselves to be persuaded, and would have believed it an unpardonable crime if they had eaten a tiny omelette^ or boiled eggs. Many of the most learned philosophers held eggs in a kind of respect approaching to veneration, because they saw in them the emblem of the world and the four elements. The shell, they said, represented the earth ; the white, water ; the yollt, fire ; and air was found under the shell. The shepherds of Egypt had a singular manner of cooking eggs they placed them j^ithout the aid of fire a sling, which they lurned so rapidly that the friction of the air heated them to the exact point required for VJ ^v^jefs Fantro^heoti,
116
wlien I
done.
EGGa am
travelling, to find tlie eggs either too
much
or too
little
from Whilst some weigh only an ounce and a half, others weigh two and a half; but as that is a whim of natui'e, and the servants are so fond of attending to other frolics, they will not see the difference in this ; but as all cookery books say three minutes, ^nd the mistress has told them the same, they are right, and she is wrong. From two and a half to four minutes, according to size, is the time they will take. Ten minutes is sufficient to set an egg hard, not thirty, or more, as some persons do by neglect. You know, my dear Eloise, how fidgety I am about such trifles. I have, therefore, invented a cooking clock, with very distinctly marked time ; the hand is pushed back to any time named, and at the tim.e required the bell strikes, I mean to adopt it for general kitchen use for all dishes, from an egg to a heavy joint. See Apa small one.
pendix.
They
302.
To Boil Eggs,
have before said, iaid eggs will not take so long, and
for clearing the voice.
a pint of water into a small pan and boil according to size as I from two and a half to four minutes. Freshin,
Put
if
only just
set,
are excellent
boil them for toast, they require six minutes ; take throw them in cold water, remove the shell, and cut into slices put them on the buttered toast, a little pepper and salt, and serve. These are excellent with a little ketchup put on the eggs, then bread-crumbed, salamandered over, and
303.
To
them them
out,
serve.
JEggs. Put half an ounce of butter into a small break four eggs in it, keeping the yolks whole, throw a little pepper and bits of butter and salt over ; put in the oven, They will take about six or before the fire, till set, aasJ serve.
304.
Baked
tin
pan
minutes doing.
305. JPoacJied JEggs.'^'Bni in a small pan half a pint oi
water, half a teaspoonful of salt, three of vinegar
;
when
boiliBjj,
break carefully in the pan two nice eggs, simmer for fom minutes, or till firm, but not hard i serve either on toast or fried
bacon, or ham, or spinach, and on any minced and seasoned
vegetable.
306. Mired Eggs. Break four eggs into a frying-pan, in which you have put two ounces of butter, a little salt and pepper.
VARIOUS OMELETTES.
set it
117
qui^ljlT,
on the
fire, stir
to
when
ail
set,
serve either on
toast or dish.
Dr
mushrooms, or a
to the above.
Cut some bacon very thin, put into 307. Eggs and Bacon. a frying-pan half an ounce of butter, or fat, lay the bacon in it when fried on one side, turn over, and break one Qg^ on each piece ; when the eggs are set, put the slice under the bacon, and remove them gently into a dish. Ham may be done the same.
308.
JEggs,
Convent FasJiion.
Boil
four
slice
put into a frying-pan one ounce of butter ; wL^n melted, add the onion, and fry white, then add a teaspoonful of flour, mix it well^ add about half a pint of milk, till forming a nice white sauce, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper ; when nicely done, add the eggs, cut into six pieces each, crossways toss them up ; when hot through, serve on toast.
309.
minutes,
Eggs and Sausages. Boil four sausages for when half cold cut them in half lengthways, put a
five
little
gently, break four eggs into pan, cook gently, and serve.
Eaw
slowly*
Omelettes or Fraise,
woman cook but says they know how ta imake an omelette, and that to perfection? But this is rarely tthe case. It is related of Sarah, the Duchess of Marlborough, that mo one could cook a fraise, as it was then called, for the great duke
Where
is
the
man
or
bbut herself.
fifree
is, if in an iron pan, it should be very clean and from damp, which sometimes comes out of the iron when placed oon the fire. The best plan is to put it on the fire, with a little fat, land let it get quite hot, or until the fat burns ; remove \t, and wipe itit clean with a dry cloth, and then you will be able to make the
ot)melette to perfection.
310. Omelettes,
8||Spoonful
them up
;
well
nwith a fork, put into the frying-pan one ounce and a half o!
fnkitter, lard,
oil,
fire
theu pour
\r
lib
llio
TAKIOUS OMELETTES.
eggn, wliicli keep on mixing quick witli a spoon until
;
all is
delicately set
then
let
them
slip to
it
;
moment, and turn it over on to a dish, and serve. It ought to be a nice yellow colour, done to a nicety, and as light and delicate as possible. It may be served in many ivays, but some of the following are the most common: two tablespoonfuls of milk and an ounce of the crumb of bread cut
in thin, slices,
may
be added.
Proceed
as
above, adding a
salt
312.
above.
Bacon
Omelette.
Cut one
before.
iice, fry
in a little fatj
when
as bacon
if
and proceed as
313. Omelettes.
Oysters,
is
When
the omelette
Any
may
be used
in omelettes.
^Beat four
them well up
put some nice butter into pan, put in the Serve with sugar sifted over,
When the omelette is nearly done dldiA, Preserve Omelettes, put in the middle some preserve of any kind, turn it over oa plate, and serve with sugar over.
315. Omelettes with Sjpirit.
omelettes;
t^J
|
when going
Eum
is
generally preferred.
PASTBT,
119
ON PASTRY.
One of the oldest and most current modes of cooking, either by mixing oil or butter with the flour, sweetened, scented, or flavoured, according
The Romans had their peculiai to the fancy of the cook, is pastry. cakes of paste, the Egyptians had theirs ; in fact, all countries have, during the periods of the greatest prosperity, endeavoured to add to With the number of their luxuries new modes of making paste.
none of these have we, at the present moment, anything to do ; our iask is to show how paste can be made to suit everybody. My excellent Eloise, I think you are wrong, for once, in proposing I know you that I should give various receipts for sweet pastry. possess a sweet tooth, but let those who require first-class sweet dishes, purchase our " Modern Housewife ;'* no doubt their pocket is equal to their taste ; at any rate, the few I nov/ give will, if properly made by a person of taste, lead them ^o do others that might vie with the most expensive dishes.
t
The following receipts will be continually referred they ought to be made with care.
315a.
slab,
salt,
to, therefore
Tuff Taste. Put one pound of iloar upon your pastry make a hole in the centre, in which put a teaspoonful of mix it with cold water into a softii^h flexible paste with the
it off
flous.- until you have well but do not work it more than you can possibly help; let remain two minutes lipon the slab, then have a pound of fresh butter, from which you have squeezed all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the same consistency
little
with
from the
slab,
as the paste, upon which place it ; press it out flat with the hand, then fold over the edges of the paste so as to hide the
'
butter,
and
roll
it
with
of
making
fold over
then fold over with the ends top and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as before ; flour a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, upon ice, if handy, or in soma cool place, for half an hour then roll twice more, turning it as before, plao3 again upon the ice a quarter of an hour, give ifc
the other third, thus forming a square, place
it
;
fcwo
more
rolls,
making seven
in
all,
and
it
is
You must
Rdd enough
flour whil^
tthe slab,
120
Wlifiii
PASTRY.
I state that upwards of a hundred different kinds of be made from this paste and the following, I im sure it will be quite sufficient to lu'ge u^^^n every cook the necessity of paying every attention to their fabrication, as it will well repay for the study and trouble. One fourth of this quantity .nay be made.
aikes
may
316. Half'jpuff Taste. Put on the dresser or table one pound of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter, mix all together, then add half a pint of water, or little more form a softish paste, do not work it too much with the hand, or it will make it hard and tough throw some more flour lightly over
; ;
and under, roll it out with a rolling-pin half an inch thick, about a foot long then have half a pound of fresh butter equally as stiff as the paste, break it into small pieces, and put it on the paste ; throw a little more flour on it, and fold it over in two folds, throw some more flour on the slab, roll it out three or four times, letting it rest between each two rolls, and it is then
;
may be
used, or if butter
is
too
lard; if neither,
mix
it
;
two
on the board, and mix half a roU it out, then chop a quarts? of a pound of good beef suet very fine, mix with a quarter of a pound of good dripping, free from water or gravy, roll out the paste, and add the dripping and suet as preceding receipt.
ounces of dripping, no salt, lay
till
pint of water,
a softish paste
317. Plainer Pa^te, for Meat Pies. Put into a pan half a pound of flour, quarter of a pound of dripping, half a teaspoonful
of
salt,
rub
all
by
ba
it
mix the
paste well
it
requires to
roll,
and use
three, or even
be enough where economy is required, or many children to feed. Where the cottager has a small garden, in which he can grow a few herbs, which I have already recommended, then introduce in the paste a little chopped parsley or eschalot, a very small piece of winter savory or thyme, or bayleaf chopped fine these herbs cost little^ and are at once relishing, refreshing, anci wholeson^e
-
PASTHY.
121
will do for fruit pies,
By
with a
same paste
mixed
grated lemon or orange-peel, with the addition of a teaspoonful of sugar. 318. S/io7't paste. Put on a slab or board a pound of flour^ two ounces of pounded sugar, or whitey-brown, six ounces ol
butter, one egg, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a pint of water,
together, add
it
degrees to the flour, and form a nice paste, but firmer than puffuse where described. ; In a farm-house, for a treat, they use cream to make
tliia
paste.
319.
table,
Pudding Paste.
1st Class
Paste.
flour,
Put on a
first
is
slab,
pound of
half a pound of
preferflour,
half of pepper
degrees,
till it
by
little flour on the slab, remain five minutes, then roll it out to any thickness you like. This will be referred to very often, therefore pay particular attention to it, and give it an important place in the book. For savoury pudding, I sometimes vary the flavour, by adding a little chopped parsley, or a little onion, or thyme, or mushrooms in it. 2nd Class Paste. Proceed the same way, putting only six
it
work
let it
ounces of suet.
3rd Class Paste. The same, with four ounces. 4th Class Paste. The same, with four ounces of dripping. Lamb, veal, and pork fat, may be used ; but as they do not cliop 60 floury, the paste is heavier. But they can be used for baked puddings, which I have introduced at page 102 in that series.
320.
Fruit Tart, French fashion. This requires a mould pan it must be well wiped with a cloth, butter it, then take the remains of half puff paste, and roll it well so as to deaden it, then roll it out a size larger than your mould, and about a quarter of an inch thick place jowc mould on a baking-tin, put the paste carefully in the mould and shape it well, to obtain all the form of the mould, without making a hole in the paste; put a piece of paper at th^ bottom, fill with ^'-uit to the tojj, and b^9 t
(
or a tin
'
122
& nice colour ;
fruit in
it will
PASTRY.
take about half an hour haking with an;^ put plenty of sugar over, according to thg
season;
321. AnotJier, If you have no rnouid, make a quarter of a pound of paste (No. 318), roll ifc round or oval to your fancy, a quarter of an inch thick, wet the edge all round about half an inch, raise that part, and pinch it with your thumb and fingers, making a border all round, put on a baking-sheet, fill it with one row of fruit if large, two rows if small remove the stones, and sift sugar over according to the acidity of the fruit it will take less time, too, than if in a mould You see what variation
; ;
:
uan be
322.
little
trouble or expense.
put each rim round the %^^q^ with your finger and thumb, three parts fill with either jam, stewed fruit, sweetmeats, custard, pastry, or cream,
{jut five
dish up in pyra-
323. Little Fruit Rissoleties. I also make with the trimmings of puff paste the following little cakes if you have about a quarter of a pound of puff paste left, roll it out very thin, about the thickness of half a crown, put half a spoonful of any marmalade on it, about one inch and a half distance from each other, wet lightly round them with a paste-brush, and place a similar piece of paste over all, take a cutter of the size of a crown piece, and press round the part where the marmalade or jam is
:
with the thick part of the cutter, to make the paste stick, then cut them out with one a size or two larger, lay them on a iaking-tin, egg over, place in a nice hot oven for twenty minutes, then sugar over with finely sifted sugar, so as to make it quite white, then put back into the oven to glaze, and serve.
323a, plain
jI15a
4s
;
Make
them
when
many
about a quarter of an inch thick, cut pieces as you can with the cutter, or with the edge of
done,
sheet, place
a glass,
wat a baking
QSi each,
on,
sift
cme
serve.
fv;i^5.r
PASTRt.
324.
123
Calces.
Proceed
orange marmalade
mixed with two ounces of s^igar, and it ; lay the almonds all over the marmalade, bake in a moderate oven, and cut in a diamond shape, dish up on a napkin in crown or pyramid they ought Apple or quince marmalade to be of a nice transparent colour.
of almonds cut into the white of two egg added to
;
may
325.
Preserve Cake.
This
style
of cake
is
esceedinglj
half a
pound of puff paste (No. 315a), take one third of it and roll it out several times so as to deaden it, then mould it round with your hands to the shape of a ball, roll it out flat to the thickness of a crown, lay it on a baking-sheet, put on it marmalade, or any other preserve, a quarter of an inch thick, reserving about one inch all round of paste to
fix
same shape, it will of course be thicker ; wet the edges of the bottom, and lay the cover on it press it so that it sticks, cut neatly round the edges, and make a mark with the back of a knife about a quarter of an inch deep and half an inch apart all round; egg over, and lightly mark any fanciful design with the point of a knife on the cover bake in a very hot oven for twenty minutes; when nearly done, sprinkle some sugar (Over, frost it with a hot shovel, and serve cold.
to the
;
326. Small
I
Cream Cake
made
in
proportion to the dish you intend to serve on, but the following
is
rroll
sheet, cover
i
one
wet the edges, iplace it over, trim them, mark it down every three inchegi, and tthen crosswise every inch; bake in hot ^ven, sugar over, and salamander. When nearly cold, cut it where you have marked it thus, a piece twelve inches square will give you twenty -four pieces? ddish as a crown or pyramid. Twelve pieces make a nice dish for a pparty. They may be made of any puff paste which is left^ but ^will not be light as if made on purpose can be cut to any
roll
B t
fifanciful
124
327.
PASTRY.
four
Fruit Crusts. ---Qvii a French penny roll lengthwise i^put the yolk of one Qgg with four spoonfuls of milkt mix it in a plate, dip quickly each piece in it, and saute in a quarter of a pound of butter which you have previously rnelted in a frying pan leave them on the fire until they have obtained a nice gold colour on both sides put three spoonfuls of orange marmalade in a stevv^pan, with two glasses of sherry or brandy and place on the fire when on the point of boiliLg, pour over the bread, which you 'have previously put in a plate, and serve very hot. Any preserve may be used, also any white wine and should you have no French rolls, any fancy roll will do, or even the crumb of common bread. Any kinds of jam may be used.
slices,
;
Nursery Dumplings,
Having, the other evening, been invited to a children's party at
Parmer LaurenCe^s, near Oswestry, and the supper being composed, for the most part, of dumplings of various sorts, so as to please the children, I made the following experiment, which proved quite sue*
cessful.
828.
plentiful,
some, and made the following fruit dumplings. I made half a pound of paste (No. 319), rolled it out rather thin, then cut a
piece
it,
and placed
a gage in the centre, adding a half teaspoonful of sugar, inclosed all in the paste, thoroughly closing the rim, then placed on
the baking- sheet, the smooth part uppermost, and baked them from ten to twelve minutes, serving them up with sugar. They
made a
beautiful dish.
Plain Cheese
smooth, put in three teaspoonfuls of sugar, one ounce of washed currants, one ^.g^, half a pint of milk, and any flavour you like, as lemon, orange, &c. &c. Prepare your paste as No. 322, fill up the tins with this?, bake the same, and serve.
PASTRY.
125
Deaeest Eloise,
There
one
feel certain
who is supposed to live ili his tomb, whilst the actors and artists are dead in reality. Settio^ that on one side, observe that the last Seventh Wonder is over, the redblue-green fire no longer required ; the scene-shifter bolts and gets the first cut, smoking hot; then, also, rush the audience, full of melodrama and anything but food, to* the galette-shop, where the 'Pere Coupe^
entirely forgetting, as usual, the author,
is
and delivering the galette afterwards. SLx feet wide by ten long is the galette-shop, and very clean, and above ona hundred feet of galette is sold in less than one hour, at a sou or two
first,
money
the cut.
Such is, even in summer, the refreshment of the admu'ers of the Boulevard du Crime. Like everything which ha^ its origin with the million, it soon aims to an aristocracy of feeling, and I was not a httle surprised, the last time I was in Paris, to see a fashionable crowd round an elegant shop, close to the Gymnase Theatre; on inquiring of a venerable citizen, who was anxiously waiting, mth ten sous in his hand, the motive of such a crowd, he informed me that he was waiting his turn to buy ten sous worth of galette du Gymnase, which he told me was the most celebrated in Paris. He passed; and then ladies, beautifully dressed, took their turn ; in fact, the crowd brought to my recollection the description of the scene of the bread market at
Atliens (described in Soyer's " Pantropheon""), where the ladies of fashion or the jpetites mattresses of ancient Greece used to go to select the delicious puff cake, called flaciteSy or the sweet melitutes, v/hose exquisite and perfumed flour was delicately kneaded with the
precious honey of Mount Hymettus, At all events, I was determined not only to taste, b^at to procure the receipt if I possibly could ; and as you know, Eloise, I seldom fail, when determined, the foliovang is a copy.
flour
126
butter
stiff,
HES.
add two eggs, a gill of cream, and a little milk | if too ; then add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, two of sugar; work all well, to form a good stiff paste, throw some fiour on the
mould the pastD round, roll it three quarters of an inch and quite mikkid, Af over, score it with a knife in diamonds, or any other shape bake for about half an hour in a rather hot oven, sprinkle sugar over and serve. A pound of either puff, No. 315a, or half puff paste, ISio. 316, wiU make a
table,
thick,
Put one pound of flour, a teaspoonounces of butter m.oisten with milk, and bake as above, adding a teaspoonful of sugar.
331. Cottage Galette.
ful of salt, six
;
332.
Poor
Mans
Galette,
One pound of
;
flour,
a quarter of
a pound of lard, moisten with milk, or water proceed as above, moisten with a little water on the top, and dredge sugar over. If no lard, use dripping.
AND SAVOUKY.
Ko matter how ridiculons it may appear to Mrs. Smith, or Mrs. Brown, or Mrs. Any-body-else, do not omit to give room to the following remarks on pies. Never mind how simple these remarks may seem to you, the million will understand tliem well. For example, where is the little boy or girl in Great Britain who has not From childhood we eat pies from eaten pies sweet and savoury ? girlhood to boyhood we eat pies from middle age to old age we eat in fact, pies in England may be considered as one of our best pies companions du voyage through life. It is we who leave them behind, not they who leave us ; for our children and grandchildren will be as fond of pie as we have been ; therefore if: is needful that we should Believe me, I am learn how to make them, and make them well not jesting, but if all the spi^f'lt pies made in London on one single Sunday were to be exhibited in^^MS^iV beside a railway line, it would take above an hour by special train to pass iu review these culinary If we could victims; therefore see the iinportasice of the subject. only rescue to proper standing half a mile of -pies and pie-crust, I think we should deserve a piece of plate, or at least a piece of one o1
Malce a Pid
to Perfection.
When your
paste
is
made (No.
PIES.
127
and tarts properly and most important process in pie and tart making) throw a little flour on your paste-board, take about a quarter of a pound of your paste, which roll with your hand, say an inch in circumference ; moisten the rim of your pie-dish, and fi| the pa^ equally on it with your thumb. When you have rolled your paste for the covering of an equal thickness, in proportion to the contents of yom' pie (half an inch is about correct for the above description), fold the cover in two, lay on the half of your pie, turn the other half over, press slightly with your thumb round the rim, cut neatly the rim of your paste, form rather a thick edge, which mark with a knife about every quarter of an inch apart mark, holding your knife in a slanting direction, which make two small holes on the top gives it a neat appearance egg over with a paste -brush ; if no egg, use a drop of milk or water the remaining paste may be shaped to fanciful designs to ornament the top. For meat pies, notice, that if your paste is either too thick or too thin, the covering too narrow or too short, and requires pulling one way or the other, to make it fit, your pie is sure to be imperfect, the Ncovering no longer protecting the contents. It is the same with meat -and if the paste happens to be rather rich, it pulls the rim of the pie to the
fall
dish,
it
practice
and common
sense will
housewifery tribulations, and probably improve the appearance of this series of dishes.
all
remedy
those
little
333.
pounds of
Peel and cut about two sharp ones being the best for the purpose, cut
two or three
each in four pieces, removing the cores, then cut each quarter in pieces, according to size put half of them in a pie;
them, so that they lay compact ; put over two ounces of brown sugar, then put in the remaining apples, then add another two ounces of sugar, making the apples form a kind of dome, the centre being two inches higher than the sides add a small wineglassful of water, cover the top over with paste No. 318; bake in a moderate oven frcLTi half to threequarters of an hour. All kinds of apples will, of course, make tarts, but if the
dish, slightly press
,
so
much
; :
128
addition of a
;
SWEET PUDDINGS.
little
lemon is an improvement to vaty grated or chopped lemon or orangepeel, or a quarter of a teaspoonful of cinnamon, or mixed spice,
juice of a
little
the liavour
Use also a
or four cloves,
little
more
pink rhuharh does not require pealing; ripe curranti^ and cherries, also as ahove; plum, damson, and mulherries the same.
SWEET PUDDOTGS.
Pick and stone half a pound of wash and dry the same quantity of currants, chop, not too fine, three-quarters of a pound of heef suet, put it in a convenient has in, with six ounces of sugar, two ounces of mixed candied peel sliced, three ounces of flour, three ditto of
334.
JPiidding.
Plum
Malaga
raisins,
hread-crumhs, a
or
little
perhaps a
little
grated nutmeg, four eggs, a gill of water, more, to form a nice consistence; hutter a
mould, put a piece of white paper over the top and round the Bides, tie it in a cloth, hoil for four hours in plenty of water when done, remove the cloth, turn it out of the mould, take the
paper off the sides and top, and serve with sweet sauce round
;
it
may
The ahove is only for Christmas. !N"ow for every day. Put into a hasin one pound of flour, one of chopped suet, half a pound of mixed fruit, a little spice, grated lemon-peel, three ounces of ^ugar, two eggs, half a pint of milk, or enough to make it a proper thickness, tie it in a cloth, hoil four hours,
turn it out, and serve with melted hutter, or sv/eet sauce crumhs instead of flour is good, or half of each.
335.
;
hread-
either in
a mould,
fill
Series of Economical Puddings, ivhicli can he made Y/ell hasin, tart-disli, or tin caTce-pan.
any of the following ingredients Either stale buns, mufhns, crumpets, pastry, white or brown bread, sliced and buttered, the remains of sponge-cakes, macaroons, ratafias, almond cake, gingerbread, biscuit of any For a change Vvith any of the above, kind, previously soaked. jon may intermix with either fresh or dried fruit, or preserves, When your mould is fiill of even plums, grated cocoa nut, &c.
butter either,
lightly with
l29
handy, grated put in ; tiiree eggs, which beat well, add three gills of milk i'or every When the above is well mixed, fill up nearly quarter mould. It can be either baked or boiled, or put into to the rim. a saucepan one -third full of water, with the lid over, and let simmer for about one hour. Pass a knife round the inside of ihe basin or mould, turn out your pudding, pour over either melted butter with a little sugar, the juice of a lemon or spirit sauce. It ought to be the pride of each cottager's wife to find out a peculiar and cheap mixture, which would entirely depend on the part of the country in which she lives, that would be liked by the family, and give it as a treat every Sunday.
ginger,
little
mixed
spice, or
cinnamon,
if
Such
in a basin, the basin to be buttered and lined with the paste, roll-
then get a pint of having made your paste, take half the fruit, and lay it at the bottom of your basin, then add half your sugar, then put the remainder of the gooseberries in and the remainder of the sugar on that draw your paste to the centre, join the edges well together, put the cloth over the whole, tying it at the bottom, and boil in plenty of water. Fruit puddings, such as apples and rhubarb, should be done in this manner boil for an hour, take out of the saucepan, untie the cloth, turn out on a dish, or let it remain in the basin, and serve with sugar over. A thin cover of the paste may be rolled round and put over the pudding. Eipe cherries, currants, raspberries, greengage, plums, and such like fruit, will not require so much augar, or so long boiling.
ing
it
;
after
Curd Milh JPudding. Put in a basin three eggs, a grated lemon-peel, three ounces of currants, one pint of curds, and one pound of bread-crumbs ; boil in a cloth half an hour ; turn out and serve.
336.
little
337. Cocoa
to the milk,
Nut Pudding. Grate half a nut, add another a^^ mix with the above An ounce of flour may be added.
.
338.
rice,
^Wash a quarter of a
pcRirid
of
put into a stewpan with a pint and a half of milk, three ounces of butter, three ounces of sugar, lemon-peei, simmer till
150
the rice
is
add two eggs, previously well beaten, miJt ; bake half an hour, or till set,
Put three-quarters of a pound of flour pound of beef suet, half ditto of currants, two ounces of sugar, a little cinnamon, mix with two eggs ana fcwo gills of milk boil in either mould or cloth for one hour and a half; serve with melted butter, and a little sugar over.
339. Spotted Dick.
into a basin, half a
;
340. Light
Dough Dumplings.
Get
make
it
into
water, and use it for roast or boiled meats, or serve with butter and sugar, or with gravy. Tv/o ounces of chopped suet added to the above, or to vary the flavour, add a few currants, a little sugar, grated nutmeg, or
lemon-peel.
341.
j^^ound
of paste, No. 319, roll it a quarter of an inch thick, lay some in a bowl, fill it with apples cut in quarters, add two cloves, two ounces
little butter, put another piece of paste on the top, and join the edge nicely tie it in a cloth and boil. It can be served up either in the basin or turned out. Do not open the top to put more sugar in, as it spoils the flavour and makes it heavy. All Ix uit puddings may be done the same way.
of sugar, a
Put
flour,
into
chopped
suet, a
pound of
beat
all
well to-
boil one
hour and a
half.
343.
dear.
Dread Pudding.
An
economical one,
thin,
when eggs
place
;
are
a break into a basin one egg, add two teaspoonfuls of flour, three of brown sugar ; mix all well together, add to it by degrees a pint of milk, a little salt pour over the bread bake in an oven it will take
it
in
three-parts full
this will
make a
This
may
cinnamon, or mixed
lemon -peel, orange-peel, nutmeg, any kind. Fox children^ skim-milk, or half milk and water, dates, OP
131
Bread 'Puddings,
cheap at a baker's
the over night,
-,
These may be bougiit very they should be soaked in milk and sugar
!No. 335.
sponge cake
may
Stale
Wash 845. Bice, Macaroni, and Vermicelli Buddings. a quarter of a pound of rice, boil till tender, drain it, place it in the pie-dish with any kind of fruit, and one ounce of butter, in Yermicelli bits ; pour custard No. 361 or 343 over, and bake. and macaroni previously boiled, may be done the same.
346. The Same for a Numerous Family, or School. Two pounds of boiled rice, with one pound of chopped suet mix in a pan with four eggs, ten teaspoonfuls of flour moisten v/ith five pints of water, or skim-milk ; add one pound of sugar and To vary it, a few a teaspoonful of salt ; bake about one hour. Smyrna rasins may be added. Apples, or any dry fruit, may
; ;
Chop the rind of one lemon fine, 347. Lemon Dumplings. add it to the juice chop up half a pound of suet mix with half a pound of bread crumbs one Qgg, enough milk or v/ater to make a stiff paste ; add the lemon sweeten to taste ; divide it into five equal parts, and boil in separate cloths for three-quarters of an hour ; serve with butter and sugar, or a little honey,
; ; ;
take out the cores of a with paste jSIo. 318 or 319, boil in a cloth, or plainly bake for thirty minutes. Serve with butter and sugar.
_
347a. Apple
348. Another.
r
in
making
it,
two ounces
f sugar
may also
349. A Simple Suet Dumpling. One pound of flour, half a pound of chopped suet, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of pepper moisten v/ith water until a stilt paste use where
;
: r
required.
They may be
may
be used
;;
132
350. !Rice and Preserve. Boil half a pound of rice as No. 463; wlien just done, add one ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of currant jelly, one ounce of sagar ; mix all well together with a fork, and
serve.
cherries, currants,
and rasp-
may be
used, and an
immense
may be made.
If
it is
serve.
Pudding. Boil one pint of milk with a mix a quarter of a pound of ground rice with half a pint of milk, two ounces of sugar, and one of butter ; add this to the boiling milk keep stirring, take it off the fire, break in two eggs, one after the other; keep stirring; butter a pie- dish, pour in the mixture, and bake until set. This
JRlce
little piece
Ground
of lemon peel
is
Put in a stewpan four ounces of two ounces of sugar, a few drops of the essence of almonds, or any other essence you choose, with two ounces of fresh butter add a quart of milk, boil from fifteen to twenty minutes, till it forms a smooth substance, though not too thick then pour in a mould previously oiled, and serve when cold. It
ground
rice,
;
The
rice
had
353.
well
Sandy Pudding.
Eemove the
roll
a long strip of paste, as for roliy-poily pudding, lay roll and boil the same as
pudding.
Orange can be done the same way, with the addition of the
juice of half a lemon.
854.
roll
Make some
paste.
IsTo.
319,
then roll about seven or eight very thin pieces the size of the bason; then get a pomid of treacle, or golden syrup, and pour a little on the paste, squeezing a little lemon juice, and chop up the rind of a lemon, and sprinkle a little over add the other pieces of paste, and then the treacle and lemon until full. Boil i ^ cloth for one hour, and serve with some
in a basin
;
and lay
keacle over.
SWEET AND
tiire I passed at
FliUIf PUDDINGS*
133
dear Eloise, of tlie pleasant since, and of our little trip to the Yallee Heureuse, or Happy Valley, near Marquise, a charming village near Boulogne. In the course of our ramble on that pleasant day, we all gathered a lot of blackberries ^but such berries as we do not meet with in England; they are a lascious, ripe fruit. These we took home with us to the hotel, and the next day boiled them up with a lot of sugar, and made them into a pudding like the above, usmg the fruit and syrup instead of treacle. It was very much liked at dinner, which was a table d'hote, and the colour somewhat resembling Uncle Tom's face, it was at once christened wdth that name, and is now known as Uncle Tom's pudding. A little port wine sauce may be used, and also black currants, boiled to a syrup.
my
355. Isinglass
and Gelatine
for
Jellies.
Dissolve
two
ounces of isinglass in half a pint of water ; boil and reduce to half, pass through a cloth into a basin ; use wbere requii*ed.
Gelatine
may
The
may
be
it will
make
it
cheaper.
The
Prepare four ounces of any fruit, which pass through a sieve, and one ounce and a half of melted isinglass to halt a pint of fruit; mix it v^ell, whip up a pint of cream, and add the fruit and isinglass, gradually to it; put it in a mould; let it set on ice or in any cool place, and when ready, dip the mould into warm water, and tui-n
as 'No. 384,
out.
357. White Cream.'-^'Pu.t into a bason a quarter of a pound of sugar, a gill of pale brandy, and one and a half ounce of
either melted isinglass, gelatine, or calf's foot
;
stir it well,
and
as before.
Eum,
noyeau,
an ounce of
either.
may
they
may
purchased.
be at a distance from any place where it could be I think it right to give the following receipt
:
and put them in three quarts of water when boiling, remove to the side of the fii-e, and let it simmer from three to four l^ours, keeping it skimmed; pass it through a
calf's feet
Cut two
1S4'
SWEET AND
imrJIT PUDDINGS.
;
where it must remain until quite liard tLen remove all thxe fat, &c., from the top. Put into a pan half a pound of white sugar crushed, the juice of four lemons, the rind of one, the whites and shells of five eggs, two glasses of white wine and a pint and a half of water stir till the sugar is melted, then add the jelly ; place it on the fire and stir well until boiling; then pass it through a flannel bag until clear. Put in a mould with or without fresh fruit. Set in ice or any cool Brandyj rum^ or any liqueurs, may be added, place, till firm.
sieve into a bason,
;
or serve plain.
359.
Orange
Jelly.
Procure
five
take the rind off two of the oranges, and half of the lemon, and remove the pith, put them in a bason, and squeeze the juice of
the fruit into
it
;
to boil until it
and add the juice and rind of the fruits ; cover the stewpan, and place it again on the as soon as boiling commences, skim well, and add a gill fire of water by degrees, which will assist its clarification let it boil another minute, when add an ounce and a half of isinglass, dissolved as directed (No. 355), pass it through a jelly-bag, or fine sieve; add a few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint, and then turn out as before. fill a mould and place it on ice This jelly
it off,
; ;
;
Lemon
Jelly
is
six
To tliose who wish to save trouble, I would recommend them to buy their jellies ready made. They may be purchased at almost every Ital'an warehouse in town and country, in bottles of about a pint and a quart each, so prepared as to keep fresh and good for
years.
Many
of
my
calf's-foot.
They
Noyeau, punch, orange, lemon, are all very excellent and use-
Deae
Eloise,
jellies
I feel I should be
to the public
from drawing their earnest attention to the recent disclosures in thf Lancet^ which so fearlessly exposed the poisonous adulterations found in the various ai'ticles of preserves and confectionarv iivi,^P^Hed tfl
135
There
is
previously adhered to ; and I may now look forward with confidence to the day v/hen not only such delicacies, but the whole of the food w-.e esit, may be enjoyed without the slightest fear of injury to our
^alth.
'it
ofj aa
The
.reniarks, displaying,
not an inapt illustration of my the difTcrence betw^een pure and Joapure preserves, accompanied by the gratifying intelligence of the possibility of procuring them in a wholesome state.*
J^e]?riiary,
1854, appears to
as
it
me
does,
a pint of milk, in which place break in a ; basin four eggs, beat them well with a fork, then pour in the milk by degrees, not: too hot mix it well, pass it through a cullender or sieve, fill cups with it, which place in a stewpan, on the fire, which contains one inch of water ; leave them
361. JPlain Custard.
Boil
;
which
is easily
perceived.
strong
coffee,
fruits and hj means of a poisonous salt of copper, still prevails extensively. Nothing can be more pernicious than this practice ; it has, however, received a considerable check by the publication of the reports ot the Analytical Sanitary Commission on this subject. One firm, we know, that of Messrs. Crosse and Blackwell, whose establishment is the most extensive of any engaged in this branch of trade, has gone to a very considerable expense in fitting up a large silver vessel, as well as several steam pans, which
with a thick coating of glass enamel, for thv. prepp^rathus taking every precaution to guard against the contact with copper. The difference in the appearance of fruits and vegetables which are artificially coloured, and those w^hich have not had any colouring matter added, ia very great so striking, indeed, that a practised eye can readily distinguish the one from the other. The former are of a bright and almost rnetallic-green hue, much deeper than tliat of the recent fruit, while the latter are of a pale yellowish-green colom; t-arying with the nature of the fruit or vegetable preseived. As for Khe difierence in the wholesomeness of the two articles, there can be 'liut a single opmion, while, in our estimation, the appearance in th .iicoloured sample is much the most pleasing and naturaU'*
latter are lined
136
of milk and lialf a pint of made coffee, with two ounces of sngatj then add the eggs, pass through a sieve, and proceed as above. Chocolate and cocoa the same, only omitting the lemon-peei
in all three.
363. Custard in Tie D^5^.Put a border of puff pa^le round the dish, fill with the above, and bake twenty minutes iw a slow oven. Eat whilst cold.
364. Custard for Puddings,
tion for
The above
as orange fiower
With
this mixture
an innumerable
when
365.
Farm
Custard.
Put in
set the
When at our friend Lindley's house in Yorkshire, I took a gill of It cream, whipped it, and mixed it with the custard when cold. made it very white and dehcate. The custard may be whipped while being made. You wi^h to know what I did with the white of the eggs, and per-* Well, I put them in a basin with % fectly right that you should. \^ry little bit of salt, then with a whisk I beat them till firm and as
white as snow, then I add four teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, mix it well; I put a pint of milk to boil in a very clean saute, or frying-pan, and, with the aid of a spoon, I scoop off the white in the shape of eggs, dropping them in the milk, letting them remain till done, turning them occasionally; take them out, and serve when lold, pouring some of the custard over j the remaining milk was used
for puddings.
Even now,
Eloise,
you
it Is
d^o
not seem
satisfied,
so I send
you a
let
It seems to you,
ma ^Qm%
137
you
fail
therefore, if
In
being quite
or Omelette Souffle. ---'BYesk four eggs; from the yolk, put both in different basins; add to the yolk three teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar and one of flour, a little grated orange or lemon peel, or any other flavour you prefer ; stir the whole for five minutes, then beat thQ white of the eggs with a whisk; when firm, mix lightly vath
366.
carefully separate the white
till forming a nice, smooth, light, and rather firm subthen put it either in a tin pan, cake pan, or a common pan, which can stand the heat of the oven, buttering it vfell. If in a tin dish, shape it in pyramids with a knife, put it in a moderate oven from ten to twelve minutes, sugar over and serve. When nearly done, an incision or two with the point of a knife may be made through the thin crust | it will m.ake it lighter. You may also put two ounces of butter in the frying-pan, and when hot put in your mixture, and toss it round three or four times ; put it on a dish, bake as above. Ten minutes will do it.
^^^ Pudding,
t\iQ
yolk
;
stance
367. How to nary Bread or any Custard Puddings. -Have some slices of bread cut thin and buttered ; lay them in the dish singly pour in the custard. No. 365, and bake gently, or place in a pan with a little water in it.
;
Or bruised ratafia cakes. Or sultana rasins. Or Malaga ditto. Or French prunes. Or dried cherries. Or stewed rhubarb. Or apple ; or, in fact, any
may
be used ;
tlie
custard always being poured over, and sifted sugar on the top.
New
style, as
a second-class mixture
table-
make
Put
in a pan
a quart of green
and half a pound of "sugar; stew on a slow fire for twenty minutes, keep stirring put in basin, and whip a pint of cream j when the fi:uit is cold j mix
gooseberries, with a wineglass of water
j
138
i?itli
pastry round
Apple
may
If too
may be done the same, having previously much syrup, add a little isinglass.
Leeii
369.
cut
in
Orange Salad, Choose six oranges not too iarg^, them in thin slices crossways, remove the pips, lay them fla^i a dish, cover over with a quarter of a pound of sugar, a gill
;
stir
A large
picked and put into a basin with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, a gill of brandy ; stir gently, and
serve.
*
As
all fruits
man,
by
all classes
when
in season, as
A very
excellent dish is
Put
preserve, and place over it cream mixture, No. 352; when cr}^^ the top mented with fresh or preserved fr'uit.
other
may
be orna-
it in any shape you and bread-crumb, and fry ^uickJ j im hot fat in a Sugar over.
when
cold, roll
it,
or serve
Egg
frying-paji.
Put in a basin a quarter of a pound same of sugar, same of bread crumbs and chopped suet, the juice of one good-sized lemon, and the peel grated, two. eggs, and enough milk to m.ake it the consistency of porridge j
873.
^L Hour,
Doil in
Lemon Pudding.
374.
Dripping Fudding.
their weight in
them up
until
it
a cream, add a few currants, and the flour gradually, until forms a stiff paste ; bake in cuj)s previously butteredr
SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS.
375. Potato
139
mashed, a quarter of a pound of butter stirred in whilst warm, two ounces of sugar, the rind of half a lemon chopped fine, with the juice, a teacupful of milk ; butter a tin, put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour; two eggs may h^
added.
376. JDou^/i
dice,
Pudding
put over two ounces of sugar, hal*f a pound of chopped suet, one pound of Hour, and half a pint of water; bake in a pie dish or a mould, or boil in a basin, as a pudding ; sweet sauce may be poured over.
377. First Class Yorkshire Pudding. -^Beat up two eggs them three good tablespoonfuls of flour, with a pint of milk Idj degrees, and a little salt ; butter the pan,
in a basin, add to
bake
it,
it
in four, turn
and when
on both sides it is done. A tin dish one inch and a half deep and eight inches wide, is the most suitable for such
set
proportion.
378. Second Class.-^Vni in a basin four tablespoonfuls of add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt and a little pepner, beat one egg with a pint of milk, pour over on the flour^by degrees till smooth, and proceed as above.
flour,
TMrd Class.'--1{ no eggs, chop two ounces of beef suet add a little soda, mix. as above, and bake the same. A little chopped parsley, chives, or aromatic herbs, may be introduced in either of the above. These receipts are good with any kind of roasted or baked meat, or poultry. To
379.
fine,
facilitate
when one side is brown and the pudding well set, into several pieces, turning with a knife or a fork. If preferred served whole, put a plate on the top of the baking tin, turn it over, and slip it back; let it remain in the tin ten minutes longer, and serve either round or separate.
cut
it
the turning,
380. Pancakes.-^Vxii the pan on the fire with a tablespoonful it melt, pour ofl" all that is not wanted, then pour in three tablespoonfuls of the following batter:
of lard, let
illour,
Break four eggs in a basin, add four smaU tablespoonfuls of two teaspoonfuls of sugar, a little salt; beat all well, mixing
more or
less,
depending
It
must form
140
A
ratliei tliick batter.
STEWED FRUITS.
little
flavour
you
little
fancy.
use a
Two eggs only may be used, but in this case more iiour and milk. When set, and one side
brownish, lay hold of the frying-pan at the extremity of the handle, give it a sudden but slight jerk upwards, and the cake
will turn over on the other side ; which, when brown, dish up with sifted sugar over. Serve with lemon. Chopped apples may be added to the batter; currants and sultanas can be mixed with it.
and slice crossways, a quarter of remove the core, and dip them one after the other in the following batter Put in a basin about two ounces of flour, a little salt, two teaspoonfuls of oil, and the yolk of an egg, moistened by degrees with water, stirring all the while with a spoon, till forming a smooth consistency, to the thickness of cream, then beat the white of the egg till fu*m, mixing it with the batter; it is then ready to fry; use any fruit as fritters. If no oil, use an ounce of butter previously melted, adding it to the batter before the white of the e^^ is used^
381.
Fritters.'^^'Peel
apples,
Apple
Apjile Fritters
Simplified.
When
peeled
and
cut,
put
sugar over, add a little lemon jaice or spii-its, let the pieces soak two hours, then dip each piece in flour, and have ready a
When hot, frying-pan, wdth at least two inches deep of fat. put the apples in one at a time, turn over with a slice as they All kinds of ripe pears are doing, and serve with sugar over. may be done in the same way.
382. College JPitdding.
basin, a quarter
into a
two eggs, two ounces ot sugar, a little nutmeg a'nd salt, and a little milk; mix all together, make round balls, egg-crumb, and fry in hot fat till a nice colour ; dish up with sugar over ; a glass of brandy or rum in it is exceedingly good.
currants,
383. Buttered
the apple,
and core one pound of two ounces of butter, add and cover over with two ounces of pounded sugar ;
Apples.Veel,
slice,
'i
very nice dish for children. put them in the oven until done. When done, they may be dished up on a nice crisp piece of toast with sugar over.
384 Stewed
STEWED FRUITS.
when
iN^ature lias
artificial
141
ordained tliat they shall come to perfection means, are as wholesome an article of food as can he partaken of, as they cool the blood and are perfectly
without
harmless.
They
receipts,
In the following are easily done, and are cheap. which I will mark as lessons, one pound is the quantity
named.
Apples. 1st Lesson. ^Peel one pound of apples, cut in slices, remove the core, put into a stewpan with three or four ounces of white pounded sugar, one ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of water ; stir gently on a slow fire until tender ; use hot or cold ivhen required. Brown sugar may be used.
2nd Lesson.
juice of half a
lemon or
of cinnamon, or in powder.
Hed Wiuharh,
1st Lesson.
inch long, put into a pan with two tablespoonfuls of water and
three ounces of white powdered sugar
tender.
stir
on a slow
fire
till
peeling.
Stir
more
if old.
Brd Lesson.
brown sugar ; stir well with a spoon until it is quite thick and adheres to it ; take it out to It can be used, spread on bread, for tea or supper. cool.
Green Gooseberries,
1st
Lesson,
;
One
pound of goose-
boil
of water, turning them well ; stir, mixing cream with it, it will make gooseberry
may
be done the same way. The following is another very nice way, and may be used for several fruits in winter. Cherries being the most difficult, we
will
name
it.
that
in
particular.
All
like
Cut the
l42
with eight ounces of sugar ; set on the stove for a few minutes, then add half a pound of red currants, and the same of raspberries;
stev/
put by until
cold.
may
he used with
other fruits
All the above malie a very nice light and quick dish for supper done as follows :-
slices
and fry nicely, or put som^o butter in a tin dish, bread over, and put in an oven. When quite hot and nearly hard, put some of the above fruit over, and
serve.
385. Fhtm Calce, Weigh one pound and a half of flour, one of cmTants, well washed, one of butter, one of sugar, nine eggs ; put into a good-sized basin the butter, which well work, with clean hands, until it is like a cream ; in about ten minutes
then add a little sugar and the eggs by degrees, and then add the currants and line a cake-hoop with paper, put the mixture in, set it in a warm place for one hour, vxnd bake it for one hour in a slow oven. Half or even a quarter of the quantity may be made.
it is
ready
then the
flour,
Sort. Put in a basin half a pound of butter, add half a pound of sagar and four eggs, beat all well together, then add half a pint of milk, two pounds of flour. a quarter of a pound of caraway-seeds or half a pound of plums ; put it in a hoop or deep pie-dish, and bake two hours.
386.
Common
work
it
well,
To
done.
wood
it is
387. Ground Mice Cake. Break five eggs into a stewpan, which place in another, containing hot water, whip the eggs for ten minutes till very light, then mix in by degrees half a pound of ground rice, six ounces of powdered sugar,, beat it well ; any flavour may be introduced \ pour into buttered paB aad bake half an hour.
143
two eggs in a pan, add twa and a half of milk set on the fire, boil twenty minutes, or till it fonns tbickish smooth consistency then add two ounces of pounded sugar, one of butter put in either a little orange flower water, or a drop of any essence you choose, grated orange or lemon peel. One dozen of bruised ratafias will be an improvePrevious to using, ment, put in at the same time as the sugar. add to the cream one ounce of butter, which you have previously
tablospoonfuls of flour, a pinch of salt; moisten with a pint
;
Break
>>
made very
hot.
This
may
be used for
all
stead of jam.
milk, a
little
bake in pan ;
388a.
Half a pound of sugar, half a pound of and a half of ground ginger, six eggs, beat one pound and a half of flour, and add as much warm, as will make a nice stiff dough for bread j it will take two hours,
B^ock Cakes.
Put
in a basin
tv^^o
pounds of
;
flour,
half of sugar, half currants, half of butter, three eggs, beat well,
make them
sheets
;
bake on baking
little
milk
may
be added.
889. Common Gingerbread. Put on a slab or table a pound of flour, make a ring of it put half a pint of treacle in, mix well together till forming a stifi* paste, working it well. Put some flour in a basin, to which add your dough it will keep thus for seven or eight weeks. When you want to use it, put in any quantity of ground ginger you require, according mix wellj roll thin, cut any size you like pieces about i;c taste the size of a crown are best; then put them on a baking; ;
;
sheet,
till crisp.
An
ounce of butter
may
They
"pan,
^Wash one pound of rice, put it in a stewwith a pint of water, put it on the Are ; when the rice is ?\rell soaked add a quart of milk, quarter of a pound of butter, grated lemon-peel or a little nutmeg, or a piece of cinnamon, boil till thick, then add two eggs, well beat,^ a little salt, and a
390. Bice Cake.
144
quarter of & pound of sugar ; place all in a greased pan or tin breadpan } bake one hour, and serve with sugar or jam over.
The same a Cheaper Way. Add to one pound of rice, two ounces of chopped suet, a spoonful of flour, a quart of skim milk, some brown sugar or treacle bake in large fan ; eat cold ; and fruit of any kind may be mixed with it.
391.
wben
boiled,
392.
Apple
Calce,
Butter a
down and
an
much
when
nearly
384, of which put one ounce of butter in bits, cover over with bread-crumbs, also half an inch thick, put into hot oven when done, pass a knife round and turn it out, sugar over, and glaze with a red-hot shovel. If used hot, a little rum put round it and lighted is very nice.
sweetened, as
No
fill
the dish,
393. 8'pice
Cahe.
add
ounce of
hour.
394. Little
BreaJcfast.
Place on a table or
salt,
two of sugar,
ounces of butter and one eg^ ; have some new milk, pour in a gill, mix all together, adding more milk to form a nice dough,
then put some ilom' in a cloth, put the dough in, and lay it in a warm place ; let it rise for about two hom-s, cut it in pieces the size of eggs, roll them even, and mark the top with a sharp knife egg over and bake quick; serve hot or cold.
Common
Sort-^^Onlj yeast,
salt,
proceed as before.
Cottage Sort.
To one pound of
flour,
yeast,
Sort.- To one pound of flour three teaspoonfuls of two ounces of lard or dripping, quarter of a pound of tugar, a few currants or caraway seeds: bake quick v/hen well
Sioeet
''isen.
145
To a quarter of a pound of currants half 395. Eccles CaJce. a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, some lemon-peel chopped fine, one ounce of sugar, roll out about a quarter of a pound of puff paste, No. 315, roll it round the size of a small plate, and nearly an inch thick, then put a tablespoonful of the mixture over
it,
roll
it,
delicate
colour.
396.
any size,
of bread quarter of an
bottom and sides are as No. 384, put them on the bread until the dish is full, cover over with more butter and bread, and bake in a hot oven for half an hour ; remove it from the dish ; turn over, and dish it up with sugar on the top.
so that the
Cut a small Savoy cake in slices, put and pour some white wine and a little rum over let soak for a few hours, put into a dish, and serve with some custard round. It may be decorated v/ith a few blanched almonds or whipt cream and fruit. These may be made with small sponge cakes, by soaking them in some white wine, in which currant-jelly has been dissolved take twelve of them stale, which will cost sixpence soak them well;, put them in a dish, cover them with jam or jelly, and thus make four layers, decorating the top with cut preserved fruit j dish with custard or whipt cream round.
397. Tipsy
Cake.
them
into a basin,
398.
JPlain
Calce.M.bi two
pounds
of dry
flour
with
and
set aside in a
;
fiour
two well beaten eggs, mix well place to rise, then knead well a tin, and place it in the oven in a
warm
may
399. Soda Cake. Half a pound of good clean dripping, one pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, not quite half an ounce of soda beat the dripping well with the sifted sugar, and beat the
;
fiour in
and a
half.
Another.
Half a pound of
sugar, half a
di-ipping, half a pound of moLst pound of currants, one pound of flour, a tea-
'
I4t)
BREAD.
three eggs, well beaten and mixed with half a pint of warm milk then mix altogether an bake in a tin lined with writing paper.
;
400.
Foreign Biscuits.
flour, dissolve
warm new
dissolve half a teaspoonful of salt of tartar in half a teait to the flour, and make it into a stiff and cut in small cakes with a wineglass ; bake in
of
flour,
Six ounces of ground rice, sis ounces pound of sugar, quarter of a pound of
clean dripping, a small piece of volatile salts; beat all well together,
few currants
may
be added, and
SERIES OF BREAD.
402. The bread which I strongly recommend for the labouring those who shall get their bread "by the sweat of then brow/' is that made from unbolted flour, or whole meal. It is only the effeminate and delicate that should partake of fine flour. The mass of bread is increased one fifth, and the price lowered, between the difference of the price of bran as flour, or as fodder for cattle. Liebig says, " The separation of the bran from the flour by bolting, is a matter of luxury, and injurious rather than beneficial as regards the nutritive power of the bread." It is only in more modern times the sifted flour has been known and used, and has been followed by the poor, to imitate the luxury of Certain it is, that the wealthy, at the expense of their health.
class, or
where whole meal is used as bread, the population have better digestive organs than where it is not. In Ireland, amongst the poor, it is almost a disgrace to eat brown bread. During the year of the famine, being at Malahide, I saw a female, without shoos or stockings, go into a baker's shop, purchase two loaves, one white, and the other brown ; the white she carried her in her hand, the brown she hid under her everlasting cloak pride would not allov/ it to be seen. These ignorant people should be told that there is hardly a family in England but what have on their table for breakfast and tea a loaf of each kind of bii^^ad, white or
brow^n.
If the dough
tities,
is
made and
if
throw some
on the
table,
BREAD.
over,
147
loaf c?
and
let
roll it several
times to iorm
bun;
in a
warm
place,
and bake
according to
1. Put into a large pan fourteeiz add to one quart of warm water a quarter of pint of brewer's yeast, or two ounces of German yeast, make hole in the flour, and pour in the water and the yeast stir it well up with a wooden spoon till it forms a thickish paste, throw a little flour over, and leave it in a warm room ; in about one hour or seventy-five minutes it will have risen and burst through the covering of flour, then add more warm water and
pounds of
four teaspoonfuls of
stiff
salt, until it
dough
it
cannot be too
Cold water
may
be used in
summer.
Then divide the dough into five pieces; if the flour is old and good they will weigh four pounds each, and take about one hour and forty minutes to bake; the oven should be well heated, and sufficiently large to bake the quantity of dough you make at one time if the oven is small, make only half the If the bottom of the quantity the door should be well closed. oven is too hot, a tile placed on it will prevent too much bottom crust or a baking sheet, kept half an inch above the bottom of the oven, will have the same effect. In some places they bake in tins, in others in brown pans if so, the dough may be made softer, and allowed to rise a little longer, though I do not approve of bread being too light, as it is both tasteless and unprofitable.
; ;
;
404.
it
on the table -dresser, or in a pan, make a hole in the centre, put in a quarter of an ounce of German yeast, one egg^ two ounces ox butter, quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, have half a pint of warm milk, put a little in, mix all well together, they add by degrees the flour, and also the milk it may not take the half pint, but depends on the flour stir all well, work it for a few minutes, until it is a stiff" dough take a little flour and rub
; ; ;
the paste vv^hich attaches to the side of the basin, roll it round, throw some flour on the bottom of the basin, put in the
off"
dough, keep
it
in a
warm
place for
two hour^ or
till it ha3
148
BREAD
throw some
flour
on
tlie
long and pointed, and make a line in the centre with the back of the knife, egg over with a paste-brush, let them rise half an hour longer in a warm place, bake twenty minutes in rather a They ought to be of a nice yellow colour, and sharp oven.
light.
If the yeast
is
doubtful,
add a
little
is preferable.
Another plainer, Wo. 2.Put in the centre of the flour two ounces of lard, or good drij)ping, then add an ounce of German yeast, a little salt, a little tepid water, with which dissolve both yeast and lard ; mix it with the flour.
still, Wo, 3.Put a quarter of an ounce of sugar as above, add half a pint of tepid water, proceed as above ; sugar may be omitted ; or make a single loaf of it in a tin pan, or roll it into a lump make a cross at the top with a sharp knife, egg over, or milk and water ; bake in rather on it ; sharp oven, which is easily ascertained by placing the hand
405. Flainer
salt,
yeast,
if
it
for a quarter of a
minute
it is fit for
bread, but
burns
it is
too hot.
in the same
bread, or that made from whole meal, is done the sponge will take a little longer to rise. Milk used in these breads will occasion it to go a little suflicient, and you further, and keep it moist longer ; one pint is flour, from the get one pound more bread ; it also improves bad little potato^ starch or rice milk. the in gluten of addition to rise better. starch will improve bad flour, and occasiqn it Pat following are two variations for these breads:
406.
The brown
way
pints of warm seven pounds of flour into a pan, mix with three mix well milk or water, an ounce of yeast, one ounce of salt, form into with the flour, set it in a warm place for three hours, small loves and bake at once.
The
dough add one 407. Eice JBread.To fourteen pounds of and cold 5 pound of ground rice, boiled in mHk until in pulp
bake in small loaves.
add one 408. JBrown Bye Bread. To three pounds of flour water as pound of rye flour, the proportions of yeast, salt and little longer above, and may be mixad all at once it wiU take a
j
to bake.
SERIES OF SAUCES.
149
Mix one quarter of a pound of 409. Good Keeping JBread. very light mashed potatoes with four pounds of flour, made into 'dough for bread, is very good; this kind of bread will keep
':
SAUCES.
derived
410. Melted BuUer, From whence is this extraordinary v/ord ? what learned pundit could have given it birth ? a word
which
\
recalls so
many
pleasing moments,
when the
It
is,
gratified
j
by
its
peculiar fragrance
and
taste.
no doubt, an im-
domesticated amongst us for near 800 years, we are very far behind our allies on the other side of the channel in its numerous adaptations and applications. The great diplomatist, Talleyrand, used to say, that England had 120 religions, but only one sauce, and that melted butter. He was very near the truth, but, at the same time, he should have told how to engraft 119 sauces to the original one, the same as the various sects he mentions, have been offshoots from the primitive one which was first established in this country. I will now endeavour to prevent his words being any longer a truism, and will point out how that one sauce melted butter (French butter sauce) can be multipHed ad wfinitum, according to the ability of the artist. I must first premise that my melted butter is not for the table of It is not to consist of twothe wealthy, but the simple artizan. thirds butter and one-third cream, warmed gradually with a box spoon, but of two ounces of butter, and two ounces of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter that of pepper, mixed together with a spoon, put into a quart pan, with a pint of cold water; place tt on the fire, and stir continually, take it out when it begins to simmer, then add one more ounce of butter, stir till melted, and it is ready for use, or as the foundation of the following various
sauces.
liJiree
This melted butter is fit to serve at the best tables, by adding ounces of butter ; take, as a guide, that the back of the spooiv being removed, should always be covered with ths butter or sauce this is esscTitial, as I find that flour Varies very much. If jou let ' it boil, it will immediately get thinner.-^
2.
foimdation of sauces
The
it is
following is also very good as the' not so ?ichj aiKl will keep longer One
:
150
SERIES OF SAUCES.
ounce of butter, one and a half of flour, a little more salt, pepper and a gill more water ; simmer, and serve. These melted batters may be unproved slightly by adding half a
tablespoonful of vinegar.
With
boiling.
make the
following sauces.
Each.
Stir
411,
SERIES OF SAUCES.
of essence of anchovies,
Ancliovy Sauce,
find
mix
well.
The same of Harvey's The same of Soyer's Soyer's Mustard Sauce, One teaspoonful of Soyer's mustard. Vinegar, Three teaspoonsful of vinegar. and added. ^gg Sauce, Two hard boiled eggs cut in Ca]per Sauce, Two tablespoonsful of chopped capers added
Harvey's Sauce,
Soyer's Relish.
sauce.
relish.
Chili
Chili
dice
ii
The same of chopped The same of chopped parsley. Mild Onion Sauce, Boil four onions in and water, take them
fennel.
salt
them
them and a
more
salt,
milk or cream.
sage and a
Sage and Onion, To the above, a tablespoonful of chopped green little more pepper.
White Sauce,
and
stir.
instead of water.
mace
is
Celery Sauce, Boil in a half-pint of white gravy, if handy, if not, water, one fine head of celery, cut in onp inch lengths and well washed, it will take about twenty minutes, add it to the melted
butter.
it
The yolk of an q^^ beat up and stirred in is an improvement ^ may require a little more salt. Serve with poultry.
Cucumber Sauce,
seeds, cut
with
erve.
salt
them in a gill of white gravy, and pepper, add it to the melted butter 5 simmer and Sugar is an improvement.
them
Vegetable Marrow,
412. Brown Sauce, Put a quarter of a pound of buit^ and eiglit ounces nf flour in a saucepanj and set it on a slow fire j keep stirring;
k SERIES OF SAUCES.
151
let it get till liglit brown, then tsk^, it oi? then pour over sufficient brown stock, Eo. 2, to make it a nice tiiicknesa, or like tbinnisli melted butter ; tlien boil for Imlf an liour, skiin, strain it into a basin, and use wbere and when If you liave this sauce by you, use it instead of melted required.
tQr\
minutes, or
md
"lieariy cold,
butter for
brown
sauces.
To make
it
may
be added.
41 S. White Sauce, Put into a convenient sized stew pan four ounces of butter, and eight ounces of flour ; set on fire, keep stirring as above; take the pan from the fire and stir until nearly cool, then pour on sufficient white stock. No. 1, until it is a nice consistency put it on the fire and boil for a quarter of an hour; keep stirring conthiually; pass it through a sieve, and keep for use. Half a pint of boiled milk will make it look whiter. This sauce, when handy, is the foundation of all white sauces, for
celery, caulifiovt^er,
&c., or
any white
melted butter. Observe, Eloise, that I only send you these two preceding sauces in the event of a little dinner party, as they belong to a higher class of cookery.
sauces, instead of using
FISH SAUCES.
Shrimp Sauce,
with the
flesh of
of shrimps,
and
and add
it,
the shrimps, to half a pint of melted butter, and simmer for a few minutes. Add a little anchovy.
Lolster Sauce, Get the raw eggs, or the inside spawn of the put them on a plate with a bit of butter, and with the blade of a kniie mash them, or pound them in a mortar ; this, when put Into the hot melted butter, will make it red. Cat the lobster up in small pieces, and add the soft part from the belly with it to the melted butter (a middling sized lobster will make a quart of sauce), A little cayenne or Harvey's sauce is relishing. Boil and serve.
lobster,
The same
as lobster.
Mussel and Ot/ster,0^en twelve oysters or thirty-six mussels, beard, and blanch them lightly in their own liquor ; take tliem out, ieduce the liquor, and add them to the half-pint of melted .butter; rhcn boiling add a little cayenne, and one ounce of butter* A drop of cream or boiling milk will improve it. Or, M^li en your oysters aro taw in the pan, add half a gill of milk and a few Jjeppercorns; blancli Bghtly, mix half a teaspoonful of flour with half an ounce of butter, put in bit by bit, stir round, boil, and serve. A little cayenne will
improve
it,
also
a drop of cream.
152
SERIES OF Sauces.
Cod-Liver Sauce. Half a pound of cod-livei^, previously boDof', ill large dice, with a little anchovy sauce, to half a pint of melted butter. Mix the same as Ho. 410.
cut
Tickle Sauce, One tablespoonful of chopped pickle or piccallily, one ditto of the vinegar from it ; add to half a pint of melted butter, and boil for a few minutes. Good for fish, meat, and poultryc
414. Apple Sauce.~Peel six good-sized apples, cut in four pieces, slice them fine, put into a stew pan with one ounce of brown sugar and a gill of water; stew till in pul]3, and serve v/ith roast pork, goose, and duck.
cut out the core,
415.
it
Mini Sauce.
Chop three
brown
sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, and half a pint of vinegar. Use it with roast
also
lamb ;
Sauce,- Grate two tablespoonfuls of horsewhich put into a basin ; add to it one teaspoonful of mustard, one of salt, a quarter of pepper, one of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar; moisten with a little n^Uk or cream until of a thickish appearance. Serve with rumpsteak, cold meat, &c.
416. Horseradish
radish,
417.
Wine and
Sjirit Sauce.
Add
two
brown
sugar, a
418. Hotel Keeper's Sauce. Mix in half a pint of melted butter one tablespoonful of hotel keeper's butter, No. 426 ; warm it anc?
serve.
419. A Wliite Sauce for loiled Foivls, &c. &c. If for two fowls, ndd to one pint of melted butter (No. 410) two yolks of raw eggs, which mix well with a gill of cream, or milk, and when the melted batter is near boiling mix in and stir very quick, do not let it boil f dd a little grated nutmeg and stir in a little more butter, season vnth a little more white pepper, and the juice of a lemon, and pour over your poultry. ^ This is not an every day sauce, but is exceedingly useful to know. A little chopped parsley, ham, or tongue sprinkled over the fowl after the sauce is on, gives it a pleasing appearance. Or parsley chopped fine, or capers, gherkins, mushrooms, or tongue cut into dice, or green peas, may be added to this sauce to change it.
Sauce for Iroiled Fowls and Meat. Put a pan with one of Chili vinegar, oe of common vinegar, one of colouring, three of water
420.
A sharp Brown
OF SAUCES.
153
tw5 of musliroom ketcliup, two of Harvey's sauce, one of ancliovy, and a pint of melted butter, No. 2 ; let it simmer until it becomes rather thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, add half a teaspoonful of sugar.
This
is
421* The same simplified. Put into a pan one tablespoonful of chopped onion, three spoonfuls of vinegar, one of colouring, six of water, three of either Harvey's sauce, or ketchup, a little pepper and ealt, a pint of melted butter, boil till thickish ; serve for the same as
above.
422. Onion Sauce, Veol and cut six onions slices; put in a stew pan, with two ounces of butter, a teaspoonfiil of salt, one of sugar, a half one of pepper ; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown, then add one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a proper thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter; serve with mutton cutlets, chops, boiled rabbits, or fowl; by not passing it, it will do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as onion
sauce.
butter
on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, add one ounce of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of capers ; shake the stew pan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a little pepper and salt, and serve where directed.
424. Cream Sauce. Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a stew pan, with the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of hard fresh butter place the stew pan over a moderate fire, and commence stirring with a wooden spoon, (taking it from the fire now and then when getting too hot,) until the butter has gradually melted and thickened with the eggs (great care must be exercised, for if it should become too liot the eggs would curdle, and render the sauce useless ;) then add ^alf a pint of melted butter ; stir altogether over the fire, without permitting it to boiL This sauce may be served with any description of boiled fish, poultry, meat, or vegetables.
'
(j
'
425. Mustard Sauce, Put in a stew pan four tablespoonfuls ol l^opped onions (No. 449), v/ith half an ounce of butter, put on the ^re and stir till it gets rather hot, add half a teaspoonful of flour, mixed well, also half a pint of milk or broth (No. 1) ; let the whole boil ten minutes, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter that of pepper, a little sugar, and two teaspoonfuls of French or English mustard ; when it bpils it is ready.
154:
A
Blade BuUer,
on the
it
SERIES OP SAUCES.
ounces of salt butter in a etew gets hot and brown add about twenty parsley leaves, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of that o! pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, let the whole boil on3 minute and pour over any article suitable for this kind of sauce.
pan, set
fire;
425a.
Put two
when
it
CuTTy Scmee.^'^'Peel and cut two middling sized onions and two ounces of bacon ; put them into an iron stew pan, with one ounce of butter or fat, put on the Ore, stir round for five or six minutes, then add three teaspoonfuls of flour, one of curry powder, mixed well; moisten with a pint of milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one of sugar ; boil till rather thick, and serve over any article suitable for its use. If passed through a sieve, put it back into the stew pan, let it boil one minute, and skim it, will be a very great improvement. Curry Broth or water may be used. paste may be used.
425b.
in slices, one apple cut in dice,
425c.
used.
no
flour
be used, need be
425e. Bread Sauce. '-^Tni in a stew pan four tablespoonfuls of I h'ead crumbs, a quarter of one of salt, half that of pepper, ten pepper J corns, peel a small onion, cut in fom% add a pint of milk, half an ounce of butter ; boil tor ten minutes, when it ought to turn out a
tliickish sauce.
Important Ohservation. It will be seen that in the above sauces is hardly any but the three first which may not be made with the produce of the cottage garden, or of those articles which are in daily use, and if these directions are followed, many a hon vivant in London would often envy the cooking of the cottage, as it would contain the freshness and aroma of fresh gathered vegetables.
there
426. Hotel Keeper^ s Butter, This is very simple and good, and a long time. It is excellent with all broiled
-
meats.
spoonful of
Put on a plate a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, two of chopped parsley, the juice of a middle sized lemon (if no lemon, use vinegar); a littlii grated nutmeg may be added.
427. Anchovy Butter.
To a quarter
of a pouiid of butter,
tfvf
SHEIES OF SAI.ADS.
15
ON SALADS.
What is more refresliing than salads wlien your appetite seems tn have deserted you, or even after a capacloiss dinner the nice, fresh* green, and crisp salad, full of life and health, which seems to invigorate the palate and dispose the masticating powers to a much longer The herbaceous plants which exist Ht for food for man, duration. are more numerous than may be imagined, and when we reflect how many of these, for want of knov/ledge, are allowed to rot and decompose in the fields and gardens, we ought, without loss of time, to make ourselves acquainted with their different natures and forms, and vary our food as the season changes. Although nature has provided all these different herbs and plants as food for man at various periods of the year, and perhaps at one period more abundant than another, when there are so many ready to assist in purifying and cleansing the blood, yet it would be advisable to grow some at other seasons, in order that the health may be properly nourished. However, at what period of the year or at what time, these may be partaken of, the following dressing is the one I should always
recomxinend.
In my description of salads, I have advised and described the use of them as plainly dressed, such as they are in many parts of Europe^ but perhaps many of our readers will want to know how the sauce ig made which is often used with the salad herbs, or such as the Italian count used to make some years since, by which he made a fortune in dressing salads for the tables of the aristocracy. It is as follows :
proceed thus until finished. This is better without; washing. Having cut it all up put it into a bowl sprinkle over with your finger a small teaspoonful of salt, half one of pepper,
; ;
three of oil, and two of English vinegar, or one of French with the spoon and fork turn the salad lightly in the bowl till well mixed ; the less it is handled the better ; a teaspoonful of chopped
chervil
156
SERIES OF SALADS.
Proceed
tlio
same
outer leaves and throw themawa}^, take off the others one by
and cut in two, put them in a pan with cold water, then them in a cloth, by shaking it to and fro violently with one hand, and extract all the water, put them into a bowl, and Ci'ason and dress as above. To vary them, two hard boiled eggs, cut in quarters, may be added a little eschalot, a few chives, or young onions. To improve the appearance of these salads, when on the table,
one,
drain
may
be inter
mixed with taste and care, with a little cut beetroot and slices of These are refreshing to the sight on a table or sideradish. board at dinner ; slices of cucumber may be also introduced.
430. JEndive.
This
crisp,
and
is
the root, remove the dark green leaves, and pick off
a few chives
an improve-
Put in one
it,
or the salad-bowl,
mix
the salad in the bowl as before; if rubbed slightly on the bread mix it with it. If properly contrived, it gives a flavour, which
no one can
salads.
detect.
Tarragon or chervil
may
be used in these
432.
Marsh Mallow.
The
;
No. 428
eggs
and beetroot
salad.
may
dress
them
little
as endive.
Cow
salad the
same way.
cucumber and
celery.
Mustard and
;
excellent salad
as lettuc50.
tTiey
Cress. These, if eaten alone, make an should be quickly washed and used, dressed
A little
may
be
used.
yollc,
434. Salad Sauce. Boll one egg hard, when cold reiwove the put it into a basin, bruise it to a pulp with a spoon, do not use iron, prefer wood, then add a. raw yolk and a teaspoonful Qt
A
flour,
a,
SEIlitiS
OP SALADS.
Ifil
salt, a quarter of pepper, then add half a round, pour over a tablespoonful of oil bydegrees, keep stirring, then a little more vinegar, two more of oil, until eight teaspoonfuls of oil and three of vinegar are used; season with half a teaspoonful of chopped onions, two of parsley, half of
small teaspoonfal of
;
spoonful of vinegar
stir it
tarragon and chervil, a pinch of cayenne and six teaspoonfuls of melted butter cold. The white of the egg may be chopped up and added. It will keep for some time if properly corked, and may be used ia proportion with any of the above salads ; but still 1 must say I prefer the simplicity and skill of the Italian count's in preference to this, although this is very palatable. gill of whipped cream is good in it,
435. Vegetable
celery,
for Salads.
Beetroot,
onions,
potatoes,
cucumbers,
barbe-de-capucin,
winter cress,
burnet, tansey,
;
marigold,
peas,
French beans,
:
radish, cauliflower
all
the above
may
if properly seasoned,
and Lentil Salad.-^To a pint of well-boiled add a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of pepper, one ot chopped onions, two of vinegar, four of oil, two of chopped parsley, stir round, and it is ready ; lentils are done the same. A little cold meat, cut in thin slices, may be added as a variety.
435a. Saricot
haricots,
skin
436. Beetroot Salad with Onions.-'EoW four onions in the till tender, also a piece of beetroot; let both get cold;
remove the skin, cut them in slices, put them in a plate, one slice on the edge of the other alternately ; put into a small basin half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, one of good vinegar, three of oil, mix them well ; pour over when ready to serve.
Celery, Young Onions, and Radishes may be used in salad with the above dressing, adding a teaspoonful of mustard.
Cucio7nhers.
oil,
Cut in thin slices on a plate, with salt, pepper and vinegar in proportion to the above directions.
Green French Beans. ^When cold put into a bowl, with tarragon, chervil, and chopped chives, dressed as before.
Brussels Sprouts, the same way.
437. Potatoes.
I
som
slices,
and season
as
befoie.
raeat, or
chopped gherkin,
may
be added.
158
438.
A
Meat mid
SEEIES OF SALABS.
Some cucumber
or celery
chopped may ba
used.
small.
439. Fisli
Salad,A very
kinds of cold
nice
^nade with
all
fisk,
but the following way of dressing is for a small Lobster Salad, and will do for all fish salads Have the bowl half filled with mj kind of salad herb you like, either endive or lettuce, &c. Then break a lobster in two, open the tail, extract the meat in one piece, break the claws, cut the meat of both in small slices, about a quarter of an inch thick, arrange these tastefully on the salad, take out all the soft part from the belly, mix it in a bason with a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, four of vinegar, four of oil ; stir it well together, and pour on the salad ; then cover it with two hard eggs, cut in slices, a few slices of cucumber, and, to vary, a few capers and some fillets of anchovy ; stir lightly, and serve, or use salad sauce, JSTo. 434.
:
it
Crah Salad,
^The
same
as the lobster.
geon cut as
may
cheee Eloise, In the foregoing receipts you will perceive that I have used each salad herb separate, only mixing them with I have a strong objection the condiments or with vegetable frait. to the almost diabolical mixture of four or five difierenfc sorts of salad in one bov/1, and then chopping them as fine as possible ; the freshness as well as the flavour of each is destroyed; they agree
ibout as well together as would brandy and soda water mixed with gin and gingerbeer, for each salad herb has its own particular flavour,
Ma
gon, celery, eschalot, garlic, cucumber, beetroot, &c, &c. are oiilj to give it piquancy like the oil and vinegar, salt, and pepper. Mustard and cress and water cresses may be considered as a slight It is remarkable that <?ondiment, hnt should be used accordingly. though the iiiliabitants of this country were for so many centuries (from the nature of the climate) a salad-eating people, yet they seem
the least to
know how
to season them.
RELISHES,
159
the potato, in 1650, and wliich was first eaten as a sweetmeat, stewed in sack wine and sugar, the various salads were in common use oh tlie tables in Britain, of which country most of the plants an
indigenous.
EELISHES.
441.
Herring
the head, and split it in two up the back ; put a whisky over the herring, according to size, hold
of the dish, so that it is covered with the and when it goes out the iish is done.
442. Devilled
joint or poultry,
the bones of any remaining some meat on, which cut across slightly, and then make a mixture of mustard, salt, cayenne, and pepper, and one teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup to two of mustard j rub the bones well with this, and broil rather brownish.
^ow^^.Take
still
which has
HERE send
There
is
one
dish which the Devonshire cottager can procure and enjoy better
than even the most wealthy person. It is the mushroom. After having plucked them, perhaps on the road home for his breakfast, broiled them over a nice bright iire, seasoned with a little pepper and salt, and a small bit of butter placed inside of them ; the flavour is then pure and the aroma beautiful, but by accident I discovered a new and excellent way to cook them. Being in Devonshire, at the end of September, and walking across the fields before breakfast to a small farmhouse, I found three very fine mushrooms, which I thought would be a treat, but on arriving at the house I found it had no oven, a bad gridiron, and a smoky coal fire. Necessity, they say, is the mother of Invention, I immediately applied to our grand and universal mamma, how I should dress my precious mushrooms, v/hen a gentle whisper came to my ear, and the following was the result. 443. I first cut two good slices of bread, half an inch thick, large enough to cover the bottom of a plate, toasted them, and spread iome Devonshire cream over the toast. I removed all the earthy part from the mushroom, and laid them gently on the tcast, lieafl downwards, slightly sprinkled them v\^ith salt and pepper, and placet! in each a little of the clotted cream ; I then put a tumbler over eacli and placed them on a stand before the fire, and kept turning tliem so CIS to prevent the glass breaking, and in ten to fifteen mj^i-ites the glass
3.60
EEIISHES.
filled witli vapaur, wliicli is the essence of the mushroom; when it: taken up, do not remove the glass for a Aiw minutes, by which time the vapour will have become condensed and gone into the breadj but when it is, the aroma is so powerful as to pervade the whole Epartment. The sight, v.-hen the glass is removed, is most inviting, its whiteness rivals the everlasting snows of Mont Blanc, and the taste is worthy of /itellius would never have dined without it ; Apicius would LucuUus. nev(;r have gone to Greece to seek for crawfish; and had he only half the fortune left when he committed suicide, he would have preferred to have leffc proud Rome and retire to some villa or cottage to enjoy such an enticing dish. Tiierefore, modern gourm-cts, never fancy that you have tasted mushrooms until you have tried this simple and new discovery. Remember the month the end of September or the beginning of
was
is
October.
or boil
As Devonshire cream is not to be obtained everywhere, use butter, vl some milk till reduced to cream, with a little salt, pepper, and one clove when warm put in an ounce of butter, mixed with a little flour, stir round, put the mushroom on the toast with this sauce,
;
cover with a basin, and place in the oven for half an hour. In this way all kinds of mushrooms will be excellent. They may be put into baking pans cover with a tumbler as above, and bake in oven,
:
loaf;
Welsh Rahhit. Toast a round of bread from a quartern put about four ounces of cheese into a small saucepan or pipkin with a teaspoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt,i and a wineglass of ale break the cheese small, set it on the fire, and stir until it is melted, when pour over the toast, and serve
444.
i
quickly.
2nd.
it
two
;
pieces of'
an inch thick
place
it
before the
and
cut
ofi*
into the
roll.
good
4-th, or Irish 'RaUhit. Toast a round of bread ; chop u.p four ounces of cheese, a small piece of butter, one gherkin, some
salt, until
it
is
quite a paste
spread
it
CULINARY MISCELLAls^EOUS.
(lOver tlie toast,
161
ve minutes, and
for
Berve hot.
445.
plain.
Put a quart
of
them
minutes,
put them on a sharp fire for ten open; then remove the beard and black part, and eat them plain with some of their juice.
parsley
when they
will all
oysters,
put
them
mace,
in a
pan with
;
handy
boil a fev/
in small pieces, in
little
; when near boiling pour over the toast, and sugar and the juice of a lemon, is a great
improvement.
447. Oysters iflain 5caZZ(5pec?,---Butter and bread crumb the
^i
and bread crumb, then and bread crumb; if a large shell, six more, with a little cayenne and butter, and some of their liquor cover thick with bread crumbs, put in oven, or on gridiron, for thirty minutes ; brown with salamander, or on a shovel, and serve. These may also be done in patty pans. Pieces of the liver of the cod, put into boiling water and set, may be added to any of the above escalops.
scallop shell, put in six* oysters, season,
six more, season again,
;
and crayfish must bo first and minced, adding a little chopped onion, pepper, salt, and butter, the scallop shell well greased, the flesh of the fish laid in, well bread crumbed, and put in the oven or on the gridiron for thirty minutes, and serve. These require a little more pepper or cayenne than other fish, Band a little Chili vinegar may be added. Two spoonfuls of melted butter mixed with the fleoh of a lobster makes it very
448. Scallops.
crabs,
1
Lobsters,
shell,
delicious.
onious properly.
chop Onions.' Yaw persons know how to chop In the first place, all the dry skin must be removed, then a thin slice off the top and bottom, or they will oe bitter, then cut tliem into thin slices, dividmg the onion, an4
449.
to
How
162
CULIKARl MISCELLANEOUS.
If a very sliglit flavour is required, cut crossways to form dice. and the onion is strong, like in the north of England, for it must be remembered that the further north you go, the stronger the flavour of the root, and if French receipt books are exactly copied, it is no wonder that complaints are made oi the preponderance of the flavour of the onion ; in which case, vlien chopped, put them in the corner of a napkin or cloth, wash them in water, squeeze them dry^ then put them back on or sometimes only rubbing the pan the board, and chop finer the m^eat with the onion is quite suiFicient.
;
450. Larding.
ii:
be thought to belong to a style of cooke^ On the contrary,- it is an economical too good for the cottage.
our receipts
;
it
may
process,
out
it.
Get vfhat is called a larding needle, that is, a piece of steel from six to nine inches long, pointed at one end, and having four slits at the other, which will hold a small strip of bacon when put between them. They will perhaps cost tenpence. Cut the pieces of bacon two or three inches long and a quarter to half an inch square, put each one after the other in the pin, insert it in the meat, and leave only half an inch out ; eight
pieces to each pound.
451. Bunch of Sweet Serhs. In many of the receipts is mentioned a bunch of sweet herbs, which consists, for some
stews and soups, of a small bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, and one bayleaf if no parsley, four sprigs of wint-^r savory, six of thyme, and one bayleaf
;
452. Bread Crti.mhs.'Tske a piece of the crumb of stale bread not too hard, bruise it with your hand, then pass it through a coarse sieve or cullender, or in cloth; use where
required.
453. Brotmiing for Smices. ^^Vu.t half a pound of hmwn sugar into an iron saucepan, and melt it over a m^oderate fi.r8 for about twvsnty-nve minutes, stirring it continually, until quit black, but it must become so by degrees, or too sudden a hea* will make it bitter, then add two quarts of water, and in ten
Bottk
for use^
CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS.
163
458a. Goloured Wate7\ Put in a basin a pint of water and two teaspooiifuls of the above sugar browning ; mix well j use where indicated, either for stews, gravies, or sauces.
'
Tease Puddmg.Vxit pint of split peas into a cloth., room for their swelling, boil in a gallon of soft water ; if good,. they will take an hour, but leave them till tender; pass them through a sieve or cullender, then add a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, two ounces of butter, and two eggs, which,
454.
si>
leave
if scarce,
can be omitted ; beat up, tie again in cloth, boil lor one hour, and serve with boiled pork. Or when plain boiled, and the peas are done, open the cloth, season, mix well, butter
in,
a basin, shape
and
serve.
boil
it,
;
rice,
and throw
it
water
but separate drain it in a colander, put it back in a pot which you have slightly greased with butter, let it swell slowly near the lire, or in the oven, imtil wanted. A little butter may bo added ; each grain will then swell up, and be v/ell separated.
456. Veal Stuffing.
spoonful of
peel
directed.
salt,
suet,
put
it-
in a
chopped, three
A
will
little thyme, or lemon whole eggs, mix well, and use where pound of bread crumbs and one more egg may be
a quarter of pepper, a
used
it
make
it
cut firmer.
457. Liver Bluffing. To the above quantity of stuffing, chop fine four ounces of the liver of either calf, pig, sheep, or lamb, poultry, or game ; mix well and use, adding a little more
seasoning.
These stuffings are varied by the mixture of a little cooked nam, anchovies, olives, capers, pickles, or even red herring. In fact, a variety of ways, according to fancy, for ary dish you
please.
chopped fine, one of parsley, half f salt, quarter of pepper, ten tabiespoonfals of biscuit powder,
two passover biscuits soaked in milk or water a few bours before
164
using
;
CULINAHY MISCELLANEOUS,
two eggs to be added.
These are excellent
all sorts
:
m any tKicfe
in balls the
make them
liked.
pound of raw chopped crumb or biscuit powder, mix with two whole eggs. Use as
stuffing for
any kind of
fish.
460. Cod Liver Balls. One pound of liver chopped fine, put into a basin with a pound of fine bread crumbs, two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions, two of parsley, two of salt, hall one of pepper, a pinch of ground ginger, three eggs ; mix all well, make into balls, roll them in flour, use them v/ith any kind of stewed fish ; they will take about thirty minutes to cook slowly. 461. Toad'in-tJieSole Batter.
Put
;
into a
pan
six table-
salt,
half of
pepper
mix well with a pint of milk mix very smooth, and More milk may be used if liked. use where directed. A little nutmeg may be used in it. This is as good as pan;
cake batter.
462.
Common
Batter.
Put in
salt,
little parsley, used for a toad-in-the-hole. chopped onions, or a little spice, makes an agreeable change ; it will also make nice puddings, if baked alone, or under a joint in
a well-greased
tin.
Commoner Sort. For toad-in-the-hole use water, have no milk or eggs handy ; a little suet, or fat chopped an improvement.
463.
if
you
fine, is
How
to
pot or stew-pan tv^o quarts of water ; spoonfuls of salt, one ounce of butter
let it boil
Put
be rather firm to the touch ; it is then ready for use, either for so^ap, pudding, or to be dressed with cheese. Drain it in a cullender ; put It back in the psn^
till
macaroni, boil
tender
let it
CULT^AUt MISCELLANEOUS.
aqA four ounces of
pepper
;
165
outtcr, salt,
clieese
or more, a
little
and
toss
it
464 Hoto
to
Toast Bread.
Procuro a nice
ias been baked one or two days previously, then with a sharp
knife cut off the bottom crust evenly, and then as many slices as Contrive you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness. to have a clear fire place a slice of the bread upon a toastingfork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it a minute before the fire, then turn it, hold it another minute, by which time the bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a yellowish-brown colour, then turn it again, toasting the other side in the same manner; lay it then upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt butter, (which must not be too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would make it heavy,) spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and cut the toast into four or six pieces should you require six such slices for a numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the whole. You will then have toast made to perfection.
:
464a.
Jam
of all Mnds. -^^Mmo^i all small farmers and cotsome kind of fruit to spare at the end of
made into jam. Thus, for strawberry jam, pick one pound of strawberries, put them in a
the season, any of which can be
pan with three quarters of a pound of white powdered sugar put the whole on the fire, stir with a wooden spoon, and boil till rather thick or try a little on a plate, if it sets. When cold, fill your preserve jars, cover over with strong white paper, and let them remain in a rather cold place. Raspberries and green gooseberries will require a little more boiling, and more sugar. Cranberries, mulberries, cherries, and cui'rants, can all be do.'^Q the same way.
;
464b. Currant Jelly..^. ^"Put in a pan half a sieve of fresh gathered currants, with tht talks ; add to it a gill of water, put on the fire, and boil till every currant has opened ; then pas.^ the
juice
through a sieve or cullender, and to every quart put one boil fast and skim, and when the preserve begins to stick to the spoon, and is quite clear, fill your preserve pots, and cover over wheu cold j but, to be sure, try some on a
166
well
it is
done
l,3w
rasp!)eme3
added
is
an improvement.
PICKLES.
Cahhage.^l perceive in most cottages the gardes possesses a few of these exceedingly useful productions at some
465.
;
Med
pickled thus
lay
ba
stalk,
them in some vinegar, and to every quart add one ounce of black pepper, and seven button onions, or two large ones sliced, boil for five minutes, and pour over cabbage cover the iar, and let it remain three weeks before using. Onions may be omitted, and only cold vinegar used, but I do not approve of it, being hard and indigestible. A bunch of sweet herbs boiled in the vinegar is an improvement. I send you no other receipts, as mixed pickles can now be bought cheaper than they can be made at home.
then, clean off all the salt, and place
with
salt for
boil
A FEW
ORIGIITAL HINTS
ON COFFEE,
Coffee,
TEA,
&c.
ounce of ground coffee in a pan, which place over the fire; keep stirring it until quite hot, but take care it does not burn ; then pour over t][uickly a quart of boiling water, close it immediately, keep it not far from the fire, but not to shnmer ; then fill your cup without shaking it ; or pass it through a cloth into a coffee pot, or it may be made some time previous, and warmed again. The grounds can be kept, and boiled for making the coffee of the next day, by which at least a quarter of an ounce is saved. In country places, where milk is good and cheap, I recommend that half boiled milk should be used with the coffee. The idea of warming coffee is my own, and the economy is full ten per cent.
460. Simplified
Mode of Mahing
Put one
the result of some of my experiments with this first tell you that my exertions in the fashionable quarter of St. Giles's gave great satisfaction to my septuagenarian pupil, whom I taught to cook the ox cheek, and she and several of her neighbours clubbed together to give a fashionable ^' tea" which of Having but little course my vanity made me immediately accept. confidence in what they would provide, I bought a quarter of a pound of ground coffee, intending giving them a lesson how to make coffee. On my arrival, I was received like a princess in a fairy landi
The
following
is
system.
But
must
HIN^JS
the
fi
ON
2!EA,
COFFEE, ETC,
167
\\i*^le parlour was not only clean, but ornamented, at tlie cost of few pence, with wall flowers from tlie neighbouring garden (the best in the world, Covent Garden), generously dispensing their perHaving cordially fume over pyramids of muffins and crumpets. shaken hands with my host, I set cheerfully to work, and got; hold of an old pitcher, but clean; in it I put the coffee, and placed it close before the fire, begging the old lady to keep turning it round, and stirring it till the powder was hot. I then poured three quarts of boiling water, allowed it to stand for ten minutes, and then poured it out into the cups, vrith the best milk that could be got, and sugar. The coffee being partaken of, I put into each cup a good teaspoonful of canister cocoa, with half a teaspoonfuj or sugar, holding the kettle in one hand and a spoon in the other. 1 poured on the water, and kept stirring all the time, adding a little milk. In the meantime I had put one ounce of tea into a large teapot, which I had placed by the side of the fire, in order that the leaves should get hot, so that when the water was poured on them, that they should immediately give forth their aroma. By the time the cocoa had been partaken of, the tea was ready, and it was declared by all the old dames present that they never had had such a cup ot tea, although they bought it at the same shop, and paid the same price; and they could not account for such * legerdemain," but would endeavour to imitate it. I was greatly thanked on my departure, and received the compliment of an old fihoe being thrown after me; not a French dancing shoe, but a genuine British bit of solid work, the sole having a very uneven appearance, v>ing studded with seyeral dozen of iron naUs. Thus terminated the entertainment given to me by these poor but grateful people of the black back street of St. Giles's. I made the cocoa thus, not having sufficient utensils ; but I have found it an economical plan to make the ground cocoa hot, adding a little water, and mixing it smooth with either cold milk or water, it gives it a richness which is not got by the usual system. Place it on the fire, keep stirring, and when just on the point of boihng, serve. Chocolate can be made the same way, only stirring it more, with a Bpoon, ii you have no chocolate pot. In the way of coffee, in my opinion, nothing can be more pure than what I bought the other day from the canister, when walking by chance in the Borough, at the shop of Messrs. White and Fair* child ; and I must, while on this subject, be allowed to state that, iE my opinion, a good cup of coffee cannot be made without the intro^ duction of a little chicory, although I am aware that some dealeiy imposed on the public by selhng an article composed of chicory av a coffee price. I cannot but admire Messrs. White's plan, which ia Jn no account to sell any ground coffee mixed with chicory, but to self then* customers the one separate from the other. They then it; to
'
168
BEVERAGm
recommended to me some canister coiFee, patented and prepared only by them. On opening the canister the aroma was very refreshing. On asking how it was roasted (rather a bold question on my part, I admit)^ he very civilly asked me to follow him to the back of the premises, where some very extensive rooms are fitted up for the purpose of roasting ; he then put some coffee-berries into a cylinder six feet in length and twenty inches in circumference; then put them in a furnace whicb roasted the berries in a most scientific manner, being turned during the while by the aid of steam power. When suffi^ently roasted, the coffee was, while hot, put in a steam mill and ground, being forced from the mill into the canisters and sealed lip as soon as possible, and put into stock. I beg to forward you one of the four quarter of a pound packets I bought. On testing it I found that an ounce made one quart of excellent cofiee.
BEVEEAGES.
As far as the food of man goes, I believe, dearest, that our duty ia almost at an end but here is one important item which supports the vitality of man as much as food does, I mean beverages ; in fact, one is inseparable from the other to drinlc without eating, or to eat
,
without drinking, would soon send us to an early grave. True, if too much is taken of one or the other, it upsets the digestive organs, and materially affects the functions of that most important part of the human frame, the stomach, which, acting in accordance with the wonderful works of nature, refuses any food or drink that does not True, bad food and beverages of all kinds iiccord with its functions. are sometimes forced on it ; but then, if it does not disturb its functions immediately, it acts on it gradually, and in course of time entirely
destroys its coating or toilette. Is it not, then, important, that great care should be taken in what we eat or drink ? The best of food is often Amongst the higher orders of spoilt by drinking bad beverages.
lie considers
an " epictire'' is to select the best of wines, which one of his greatest treasures, scientifically classing them to the various courses of his dinner. You probably will again remark, that I am deviating from the purport of our present little work, by alluding to the higher class of Uving in its pages, while in reality it is intended for the million, and not for the wealthy few. My excuse is, that if a rich gourmet take. jBO much care in selecting his beverages, why should not a poor house* wife be as particular in choosing her more humble drinks ? Is it not more desirable for the axtizan, who cannot afford to drink much beer, to have with his meal a sound clear glass of pure water, fuU of health and life, than to have a muddy one ? For I have actually s^a peopk the simple sLripk the i^aining^)?^ they drip froii^\ the roof of a house
society, the pride of
BSYEBAGm
Bea of letting
it rest for
it
jfetill,
169
a minute never entering their hmxds ; or "bettef by passing it through a clean cloth, or giving it a boil^ end letting it get cold before drinking, for any doubtful water will improve and get soft by boiling. For those in middling circnmstances, who can afford their malt
to clarify
is
preferable
to any heavy stout, as they facilitate digestion. Since my return from France, there is nothing I miss so much a3 that light and cooling drink called by our allies " Viji ordinaire^'*
made by
several
generous wines would take place, though probably they would not be partaken of to any great extent by the masses, v/ho would not understand their properties, although there is not one Englishman out of twenty who visits France, but who in time takes a liking to thesa really harmless wines. I do not want to deprive you of your sherry or port before or after dinner ; however, recollect that nothing assists digestion and refreshes the palate more than a good glass of light wine i and therefore it would be a great boon to the public if they could be imported free of
duty.
To our friend Dr. King I am much indebted, after having had a conversation on the above subject, for his sending to me the other day a case of pure French wine, having, as he stated in his letter, been present while it was drawn from the rough French cask,
I was more astonished when he informed me that its price was .only twenty-eight shillings per dozen, and was purchased from the famous house of Campbell, of Regent Street, London. It appears that this gentleman pays an annual visit to the different vintages and villages which encompass the banks of the Garonne, and jjur chases largely from the peasantry, remaining there all the brewing season, and personally superintending its make. The principal wHnes are called La Rose," " St. Julien," " Vin de Grave,'^ " Sauterne," " Barsac,^ and numerous other kinds, all of which are highly recommended iby the faculty. Light Amontillado, Rhenish wine, and Bucelias, are
'
commendable at meal-times. For those who cannot afford to buy malt liquors or wines, I lis.5 been led to try the following receipts, wh^iob will be found e^treiaely
aiso
jyo
CHEAP DPJNKS.
Water.A
gets quite black, and added to the above, refreshing drink for invalids.
of pearl barley 469. Apple Barley Water. quarter of a pound one hour, is also a instead of toast added to the above, and boil for very nice drink. boiled in the above 470. Apple nice ^^6r. Half a pound of rice,
and drunk when cold. until in pulp, passed through a cullender, All kinds of fruits may be done the same way. raisins. Figs and French plums are excellent ; also used. little ginger, if approved of, may be
^
same quantities, and T 471. For Spring Drmyt. Rhubarb, in the sugar, is very cooling, done in the same way as apples, adding more Also green gooseberries. put them s 47lA Lemonade. QxA in very thin slices three lemons, either white or brown; bruise.^ in a basin, add half a pound of sugar, ready. add a gallon of water, and stir weU. It is then
'
altogether,
bruised with 472 For Summer JDnnJc, One pound of red currants, to a gallon of cold some raspberry, half a pound of sugar added and bottled. water, well stirred, allowed to settle,
little lemon-peel. 473. Midherri/.The same, adding a acid added to these renders them little cream of tartar or citric
-i
snore cooling in
summsr and
spring.
!
ON MARKETING.
'
My
and
of
we
how
to
but nothing is said font the qualities of each should be known, the people of England ^cond and third quahties, which two-thirds of haunch of mutton, oi also directions forjudging of the finest
meat,.Wtry,
how
jdl
the
best,
consume 5
ON MAUKETINC.
i^rloin of beef,
171
but never of tlio neck or scrag of mutton, or the skirfc of beef, or sheep's head, liver, &c. If the directions of those v/orks were strictly followed, one-third of the people would be starving, and a population of dogs (as in Turkey)
to be kept to eat
At the present the French, are [(feeding excellently off that which is thrown away by the Turks, th head, feet, &c. &c., of the animal, which is by them declared unclean. Such ought never to be the case in a Christian country, for we may bo (quite certain that, unless the animal is diseased, all those parts which can be digested is good food for man; but, there may be some who, from over-indulgence in luxuries, have so brought the stomach into that state, that there are but certain parts of the animal of which they can partake ; these persons must, of course, pay higher prices tfor that kind of meat, and leave the other parts cheaper for thoso having healthy and good digestions to feed on. It is, therefore, our duty here to teach the labom^er's and cottager's wife how to buy ife
would have
up the supposed
our
ofFal.
jnoment our
allies,
Mutton,
The
Lanih should be four or five months old, and ought to weigh from pounds ; the fat ought to be white and light in appearance, the flesh a faintish white, smooth, and firm to the touch. The second quality is not so well covered with fat, the flesh rather ted, the meat softer, and every joint presents a coarser appearance. The third quahty is flabby, lean, and red, the fat rather yellow, Jnd will keep sweet but a short time. To ascertain if fresh, place the finger between the loin and kidney, end, if moist, or tainted, will be easily ascertained by the smell.
thirty to forty
Most towns and counties in the United Kingdom diflbr in Beef. the kind of cattle brought to market. It is not our duty here to Iriention the breed which we think the best, and on which so many
iifl;'.^ent
172
ON MARKETING.
feeding''. Tlie best quality of beef will have an open grain, briglif? red colour, the fat white, and the bark smooth. Some of the best qualities will have the fat yellow, fi'om being fed on oil- cake; and, unless it has afterwards been fed on turnips, will be wasteful in cooking, although the meat may be tender and rich. The second quality will be close-grained and rather flabby, paler in colour, and the fat a dead white and the bark rough. The third quality, the grain is very close, no streaks of fat between the grain, and of deep brickdust red, tough under the finger, the fat hard and skinny. To ascertain the age, look at the bone or horn which runs through the ribs of beef; if a fine four -year old heifer, this horn or bone will be soft or tender, and becomes harder the older the ox. But the best plan to judge of the flavour of the meat before you do it by eating it, is to look at the tongue of the bullock, and if it is plump and has a clean bright appearance, with the fat at the end of a pinliish white, then the meat will turn out good; but if the tongue should look dark, the fat a dead white, then that meat will eat hard and flavourless., The same holds good with sheep.
Veal, There is more difiiculty in the choice of veal tfiati any other meat, although the general opinion is, it is the easiesfc. I often hear how white it is, how plump it looks: these are often produced
artificially.
The preference is usually given to the cow calf, from its being whiter and having the udder; but if a bull call has been properly fed, and killed at about ten weeks old, nothing can be finer in flavour or closer in grain when cooked, and will be much more juicy than the cow calf. The grain should be close, firm, and white, the fat a pinliish white, not a dead white, and the kidneys well covered with The second quality is thick white fat; that is the first class veal. darker in flesh, may be slaughtered in the country, and equally as nourishing as the first; the third quality will have less fat round the It is often more kidney, be coarser grained, and the lean red. nourishing than the very white veal, but not so delicate or digestible. It is caused by the calf being reared in the open air. If the suet under the kidney is soft and clammy the meat is not
fresh.
The neck is the first joint that becomes tainted. Calves' liver should be firm, and free from gristle or spots; the heart should be surrounded with fat. When veal has to be kept, it should always be hung up, and neveJ allowed to lay on anything, or it soon becomes tainted.
Po?'.?7,-The
A friend
mine made various experiments, and more particulaiiy on tiie same IJtte of pigs, and the vcirious sizes and difibreat flavour of the meat
5f
OH MAKlIETINa
is
173
tliat wliafcever
was extraordinar/.
a pig
is
There
be
better in size and quality if kept Those breeds that clean and well vv^ashcd at least once a week. produce a fine close-grained meat, not too much fat, and that firm, solid, and pinkish white, are tlie best; if the tongue is clean and full,
fed upon,
it will
much
the animal is v/ell ied and healthy. The second quality of pork may be very good, bu^ toe tlesh will be hard and red, and the fat a yellow white. The third quality, the meat will be coarse-grained, the fat soft,
and the tongue and kidneys discoloured. Measly pork maybe known by the little kernels in the fat: it is not allowed to be sold by the butchers, and yet, in many large towns in England, it is openly-
clammy and moist, it is not fresh. The best plan to the freshness of this, or any meat, is to take wuth you, in hot weather, to market two wooden skewers, and insert them in the flesh near the bone, and remove them, and the nose will detect it immediately; this is much better than touching the meat. These skewers
tell
SucJdng Pigs.
Poultrif.
The
size.
The means of
:
well known the age is known by the spur, and the quality by the skin. There is, perhaps, no poultry in the world that comes up to the wellied Dorking capon. The new breed of Cochin China fowls, of which the best tor eating is the grey kind, if fed and treated in the same way as the Dorking capons, might produce a larger fowl, but it is
questionable
if so
tender.
preferred, but there are black ones equally as good. In country places, where chickens are sometimes required to be killed in the morning for that day's dinner, it is best to give each, shortly before killing it, a teaspoonful of vinegar,
them
to eat tender.
all
full,
fine, full,
and firm
legs,
skm
be detected by removing the feathers otT tlie under if the skin is not discoloured, they are fresh. The age may be known by placing the thumb ir-to the beak, and holding the bird up with tlie jaw part of the beakj if it breaks, it
part of the leg, and
is
may
young \
cooking
to be eatable.
174
KITCHEN REQUISITES.
KITCHEN REQUISITES.
properly without the requisite tools, proper shade without the necessary colours, in like manner does every person wishing to economize his tood, and to cook it properly, require the proper furniture wherewith to do it. It is to be hoped that these pages, which have cost me both time and trouble, as well as months of travelling, will be read by many above the class to whom it is more especially dedicated ; and that hereafter kitchen utensils may be considered proper to give as a wedding present to a couple commencing housekeeping, Kothing, I am certain, could be given that would be a better promoter of peace and happiness in their home. In a superior cottage, which, should it consist of four rooms, the kitchen should be the back one, and not, as is often the case, the Ixont one, made into a kitchen and sitting-room, and the back one a washhouse and receptacle for dirt, &c. Whilst I am on this subject, I would remark that, in my opinion, all cottages or houses require, in this climate, a porch, or second door ; it would prevent the continued draught and blowing in of the rain and dust, and thus avoid a great deal of illness amongst the inmates, and add greatly to the cleanliness and comfort of the dwelling; but if built upon H.B.H. Prince Albert\s plan, they do not require it. The back room should be fitted up with a proper grate, with oven and boiler, and a copper holding at least six gallons. It should have the requisite shelves, and a little sink to hold a tub, and with a tap or pump for water; the latter article I consider the most essential requisite of a cottager's dwelling: it should possess two gridirons, one single, one double, a large and small frying-pan, three black saucepans, holding one gallon, halt gallon, one quart, or a threelegged black pot, instead of the gallon one, a large iron spoon, a ladle, two wooden spoons, a wooden bowl, a cullender, a chopper, a large knife, a baking pan, a rolling pin, a paste brush, a stove brush, two tin tart dishes, three brown basins, six bread tins or pans. more humble abode, possessing two rooms, or perhaps only one, which latter I disapprove of very much, as there ought to be two in every dwellingjhow ever small, will perhaps not be able to afford so many articles of furniture ; in which case I would recommend, as being the most serviceable, the black pot, gridiron, frying-pan, earthen pan, or bowl, or spoon, ladle, cullender, chopper, three basins, two tin tart dishes, baking pan, with oven with these most ot the receipts in these
or the painter produce the
may be cooked to perfection. And with the pan, gridiron, and frying-pan, nearly one half of th$ For baking stewing-j>an^ see Appendix;* receipts may ha dj
pages
175
upon such
any
of
the above will not keep fresh after being cut, longer than twenty-four All hours, during the summer, and twice that time in winter.
vegetables should be kept in as cool a place as possible ; still, when the bloom disappears, it is time to make your bargain, as they then can be had cheaper do not, however, buy any vegetable on any part of which decomposition has commenced to any extent, as if eaten in
:
be found injurious to health. Vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, common greens, carrots, turnip-tops, leeks, celery, artichokes, both globe and Jerusalem, will
this state it will
keep much longer. Another way to ascertain if vegetables are old gathered, is to break a piece off any one with the hand ; if it snaps crisply it is fresh ; ii^ on tlie contrary, it has a flabby appearance, and is of a softish consistency, it is stale, and should be bought accordingly.
am happy
for,
no doubt,
which I have now in contemmust have sprung out of those atmospheric castles
;
little aerial
pigmy
so
of his brother monster balloon, that you, the course of a day as you choose, even
with a parachute, without the slightest danger of getting upset; it is capable also of successfully braving the strongest current of air ; and, contrary to all aeronautical notions, its descent is even more agreeable
than
actually refreshes
spirit of
the
them
firma.
In this unassuming utensil, Eloise, the wealthy epicure and great amateurs of cookery will be able to dress a most reclierclie dinner before the dining or drawing-room fire, without soiling his apartment, apparatus, or even his fingers ; the cottager will be able, before fiis humble fire, to transmogrify his coarse food to a nice stew, roast, or baked pie to perfection. In every cottage bread will be lighter, and contain more nutriment, than when baked in a large oven, in which considerable evapo. {ition always takes place. This little oven has not the sliglitest resemblance to our magic
176
etove, wliich.
fraternizing'
was made for the wealthy only, and which is now largely with our troops and allies, in the war camps in the east. This little apparatus will he dedicated to all classes, hut more particularly to the masses, as I think, from the model which I now have before me, it can he made for a few shilhngs. I have already tried many receipts in it, all of which have more than answered my expectations, copies of them will he printed and sold with the apparatus, I have made good soup, and dressed fish and meat of all kinds, as well as vegetahles, having also roasted and baked meat, and made sweet and savoury pastry in it. In fact, I may say, that in reality it is almost a complete kitchen in a very small compass, a real petit hijoux de families not quite so large as our extensive friend Signor Lablache's favomite hat.
a cheap pudding, adapted not for the millionaire huti No eggs are required, and it costs only sixteen pence to make a good-sized one, enough to supply from ten to twelve
is
Here
people
Heceipt.
'Raisins,
Put
in a
hasm a pound
suet, two tablespoonsful of and half a pint of water. Mix all well, put in a cloth or mould, and boil from four and a half to five hours. Sauce Melted butter, sugar, and juice of lemon, if handy.
chopped
treacle,
A little
spice, or
few drops of any essence, or lemon, or peel chopped ; a httle brandy, rum, &c. &c., will be an improvement.
EAST.
No, 1. Camp Sowp.Vvit half-a-pound of salt pork in a saucepan, two ounces of rice, two pints and a-half of cold water, and, when boiling, let simmer another hour, stirring once or twice; break in six
ounces of biscuit, let soak ten minutes ; it is then ready, adding one teaspoonful of sugar, and a quarter one of pepper, if handy. No, 2. Beef Soup.- Proceed as above, boil an hour longer, adding
If any flour
is
handy,
half-a
CAMP RECEIPTS FOB THE ARMY.
177
it pound of flour into pieces each the size of a small apple, roll them in iiour, flatten with your hands; half an hour will cook them; serve round v/ith the
beef.
For
quantity of biscuit
may
he used.
Soup
find
separate.
Note,
obtain any of the following vegetables will Add four ounces to the above soups:
of either onions, carrots, celery, turnips, leeks, greens, cabbage, or potatoes, previously well washed or peeled, or any of these mixed to make up four ounces, putting th^m in the pot with the meat. I have used the green tops of leeks and the leaf of celery as well as the stem, and found that for stewing they are preferable to the white part for flavour. The meat being generally salted with rock
salt, it
ought to be well scraped and washed, or even soaked in water a few hours if convenient; but if the last cannot be done, and the meat is therefore too salt, which would spoil the broth, parboil it for twenty minutes in water, before using for soup, taking care, to throw this water away. JVb. 3. For fresh beef proceed, as far as the cooking goes, as for salt beef, adding a teaspoonful of salt to the v.^ater. No, 4. Fea Soiip. Put in your pot half-a-pound of salt pork, half a pint of peas, three pints of water, one teaspoonful of sugar, half one of pepper, four ounces of vegetables, cut in slices, if to be had; boil gently two hours, or until the peas are tender, as some require boiling longer than others, and serve. No. 5. Stewed Fresh Beef and Rice, Put an ounce of fat in a pot, cut half-a-pound of meat in large dice, add a teaspoonful of salt, half one of sugar, an onion sliced; put on the fire to stew for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally, then add two ounces of rice, a pint o^ water; stew gently till done, and serve. Any savoury herb will improve the flavour. Fresh pork, veal, or mutton, may be done the same way, and half-a-pound of potatoes used instead of the rice, and, as rations are served out for three days, the whole of the provisions may be cooked at once, as it will keep for some days this time of the
year,
and
is
easily
warmed up
again.
Meceiptsfor tJie Fryingpan. Those who are fortunate enough to possess a fryingpan will find the following receipts very usefal: Cut in small dice half-a-pound of solid meat, keeping the bones for eoup; put your pan, which should be quite clean, on the fire; when Lot through, add an ounce of fat, melt it and put in the meat, season with half a teaspoonful of salt; fry for ten minutes, stirring now and then; add a teaspoonful of flour, mix all well, put in half-a pint of water, let simmer for fifteen minutes, pour over a biscuit previously
soaked, and serve.
The
addition of a
is J^lso
ment, as
little pepper and sugar, if handy, is an improvea pinch of cayenne, curry powder, or spice; sauce?
178
would be very relishing', and, as keep for any length of time, they womld De the kind of thing to be sent as presents to the camp. As fresh meat is not easily obtained, any of the cold salt meat may be dressed as above, omitting the salt, and only requires warming a short time; or, for a change, boil the meat plainly, or with greens, or cabbage, or dumplings, as for beef; then the next day cut what is left in small dice put in a pan an ounce of fat; when very hot, say four ounces pour in the following: Mix in a basin a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with water to form the consistency of thick melted butter, then pour it in the pan, letting it remam far one or two minutes, or until set; put in the meat, shake the pan to loosen it, turn it over, let it remain a few minutes longer, and serve. To cook bacon, chops, steaks, slices of any kind of meat, salt or fresh sausages, black puddings, &c. Make the pan very hot, having wiped it clean, add in fat, dripping, butter, or oil, about an ounce of either; put in the meat, turn three or four times, and season with salt and pepper. A few minutes will do it. If the meat is salt, it must be well soaked previously.
and pickles used
these are articles
which
for Beef and Porlc. Put in a pan or tub five three ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of brown sugar for a joint weighing from ten to twelve pounds, rub it well with
JPiclding
salt,
Good
pounds of
the above mixture three or four times, letting it remain in pickle for a week; it is then ready for cooking: half an ounce of peppercorns, or a few aromatic herbs, will vary the flavour. Kound of beef, edgebone, breast, flanks, or ox tongues, are the
pieces generally salted
;
cheek and feet the same. Time your pickling according to plam pickling, omit the sugar and saltpetre.
For
NEW WAY
Cub a pound of solid beef into small dice, which put into a stewjian with two small pots of butter, a clove, a small onion sliced, an4 two saltspoonsfol of salt ; stir the meat round over the fire for ten minutes, until it produces a thickish gravy, then add a quart of boiling water, and let it simmer at the corner of the fire for half an lioui; skimming off every particle of fat ; when done pass through a sieve. I have always had a great objection to passing broth through a cloth,
as
it
frequently spoils
if
its flavour.
plain, is done by merely omitting the vegeand clove the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming ; pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served
The same,
wanted
:
tables
in
it if
required.
A little leek,
celery, or parsley
may be
added.
APPENDIX,
ON CARVING
JOINTS.
Deab Eloise, I insert the following lesson on that culinary accomplishment, carving, knowing what an important item it is in the art and mystery of coolvcry, and yet, how few there are who understand that apparently simple ai't. First, you must truss your joint with taste, and take away any unsightly bone to give it a good shape, more especially the neck,
loin, or breast of either veal,
mutton, pork, or lamb. you can purchase a small saw, and instead of letting the butcher divide the bone of a loin of mutton carelessly, saw the bone thro'o^jh at about a distance of half an inch from each other. Kibs of lamb, and breasts of mutton and veal the same. These being most difficult joints to carve, should be sawn carefully. Ecast ribs of beef, and sirloin, ought to be cut thinnish, following, as near as possible, the grain of the meat, which you can soon learn to do by paying a little attention. A little fat and gravy should be served on each plate. Salt beef ought to be cut thinner still. If out of a round or a silver side, cut it even. Cold meat requires to be cut thinner than
For a
shilling or so
hot.
Roast bacon or
fillet
salt boiled
of veal, cut as round of beef, helping thin slices of pork ; a little stuffing and gravy to be added.
My way of carving a leg of mutton is by putting one prong of the fork in the knuckle-bone, holding it in the left hand, then I cut five or six slices in a slanting manner, towards me, dividing the first two or three cuts equally amongst all the plates. By this method you keep the meat full of gravy, each slice retaining its portion and it is far better, in an economical point of view, than cutting the joint across the centre, as by this means all the gravy runs out, especially if the meat is over done. Haunch of mutton I carve the same, giving a slice of the loin an^ one of the leg to each guest. Saddle of mutton should never be cut across the loin if you study economy. Pass the point of the knife between the back -bone and the meat, then begin at the top and cut as thin chops in a slanting position, each slice about half an inch thick, which will give you a iaiJ
180
AIPEND11.
proportion of fafc and lean. By this method, you can cut enougli for ten to twelve persons, whereas by the other way you only get
enough for four or five. For leg of lamb or pork proceed as tor mutton, and for loin, ribs, breast, or neck of either, nroceed as above, having previously divided it with a saw, which greatly facilitates the carving of these
joints.
the receipt for my new pan, I required with any meat done in it.
meat or Iripe (which is sometimes unsending it to the table, remove the fat which rises to the top v/ith a spoon. I must say that the more I use the pan the better I like it. I have had it registered and they are now being manufactured in large quantities by JMessrs. Deane and Dray, King William-street, City, and will doubtless be before the public in p, few weeks^ Foi
In the event of stewing
before
fat
description, see
page 69.
4Ff.EHBlX.
By
iiim
llfc
lilUu
N.B. The
iire
must
"be
They 3re
of a proper heat, or your joint will be eithei to be pi^rchased at No. 46, Kkn^
182
Appendix.
The above
the meat and potatoes, cut your pudding in four pieces, turn each piftce, replace the grating, and bake till done.
VEGETABLE DRAIKER.
The above
is
rj
is perhaps one of the most economical cooking utensils ever put before the public, and ought to have a place in every kitchen. It possesses two great qualities, inasmuch as it saves time, and rapersedes the tedious method of fishing the greens or cabbage out of the saucepan j and prevents the now every-day evil of emptying with
APPENDIX.
183
the water in which the vegetables have been boiled, a quantity of the thereby material, which by accident might be left in the pot To be had clogging Tip the drain, to the annoyance of the household.
<jf
Messrs.
Deane
&
Let
it boil fast
until tender,
out the perforator by the handles, and With the crusher ipress lightly the water out, and serve. When any of these To boil pork, bacon, or salt beef, with greens are half done, put in your greens, using only half the quantity of salt ; when ready, dish up the meat, press the broth out^ which save
:
for
ijext
da/s
use.
(See Soups.)
Chimney Screw-jack
ing joints
trifling,
for suspend-
to.
at
fit
any ironmonger's.
fire,
before the
which
will greatly
use.
when in
it
in the
yj?t
THE ARMY.
i
the period of the famine in Ireland, I took with me a portable kitchen, and erected it opposite the Royal Barracks in Dublin, and with which I cooked and delivered rations for 26,600 persons daily. Having last year taken a peep at the camp at Chobham, as well as the camp at Satory in France, and seeing, by the ordinary manner in which the provisions for the dili'erent messes were cooked, even in France, that Inrge amount of nutriment of tlie food was lost, it occurred to me that, if a moveable kitchen could be made to travel with the army, it would be exceedingly useful, whilst on the march, or when encamped. The following is an explanation of the above kitchen: The carriage is made of sheet-iron, weighing, with water, fuel, &c., a. little more than one ton. The lower part consists of a circular steam boiler, and the upper part of an oven. Over the oven are placed the various pans containing the rations required to be cooked by steam, and on each side is a hanging shelf, which will also hold steam saucepans in front, and round the driver's seat is a reservoir for water, and a place to hold the condiments, &c. The plan of working it would be to draw it near to a stream or reservoir of water if brackish or muddy it does not matter* there till the boiler and reservoir^ and remove it to any convenient spot. The fuel may consist of wood, coal, turf, &c. &c. Within one hour after the fire is liglited the steam would be up, and the oven hot, and with one six feet long and t.hree feet wide, rations for 1000 men could be cooked by baking and ^teaming in about two hours, and the apparatus moved on again, or it would cook whilst on the march, if on an even road. Its advantages are, saving of time, labour, men, and food, and the certainty that the men could get their food properly cooked. The cost of each apparatus would not exceed lOOZ.
'
Any
tainted water
is
made good by
first
converting
it
into steanf.
185
OMISSION.
I
pEECEivE,
my
dear Eloise,
tliat
dressing sprats in a plain way, are minus in the previous editions, as far as the 60th thousand of our very successful Uncle Tom's
Kitchen, as our publisher, Mr. Eoutledge, calls it, nearly sixty Let thousand books having been sold in less than six weeks. us, therefore, be grateful to the public, and give them the omitted receipts, which I assure you I had in my original manuscript, but which I have in vain endeavoured to fish out of the book. Being food, ar>d g:ood food for the million, when properly dressed, it is r.ost important that these simple receipts should be immediately introduced in this, the 70th thousand, and more especially as those
silvery stars of the ocean are daily expected to
visit to
pay their annual " terra firma," and that on the next Lord Mayor's Day everybody probably will be in a good " moon" to partake of
them.
Citizen
And most
numerous
will be,
friends of the
when
eclipsed
by a
better subject of
Queen
Victoria.
1st Lesson.
Sprats, Semi-fried.
cloth
your frying-
pan, which requires to be very clean; place it for a mm ate or two on the fire, to get hot through sprinkle in it about naif a
;
w^hich place
immediately in the pan: leave them for two minutes, turn carefully with the blade of a knife, leave them three or four minutes longer, and serve very hot. To serve them on a napkin is preferable.
'
Addition.
little
or a
ij'
a pleasing variation.
pan a little fat, on which semi-fry ?3 abovTliey ma}^ also be lightly covered with Qg^ and bread-crumbs lor use sifted biscuit, which is a very agreeable variety of di'essing
2nd.
;
Dip each
^^
oil
when very
them.
butter, salt
Another way. Put them in a tin, with a little lard, oil, or and pepper, into the oven. They will take about
186
OMISSIOK.
important.
double the time doing, and will not require turning, wliicK is Serve in the tin. You may add chopped parsley
and a
little
To hroil, Take a skewer long enough to hold a dozen sprats dip them lightly in flour put the gridiron on as clear a fire as possible, and when hot lay them on for two minutes turn them carefully, leave them till done, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.
;
;
lemon, &c.
strikes
mcTake
add
salt,
pepper, and a
mustard, and
it.
Sandwich.
serve.
Put
another similar
to
slice over,
little
Harvey's sauce. Chili vinegar, Soyer's relish, or any mild sauce. A little Anchovy paste on the toast would be an improvement.
Deaeest Eloise,
repeat
it,
V/e have remarked before, and must now with Hippocrates, that that which pleases the palate
words of far and rightly do they apply to a new discovery I made v/hilst in London, about a month back, which I regard as a blessing to the sufferer who is obliged to seek relief from I am pleased to tell yoa that, in lieu of the cod-liver oil. generally rancid quality of this preparation, I have found it palatable and rather agreeable, in comparison with the other, and far superior to what I tasted at the Hull Infirmary, during a visit there (see pages 41, 42, and 43), which caused me to think of those dishes in which fresh cod-liver is used but, as these cannot supply the " mass," I must make you acquainted with this *'boon for the million:" and I certainly prefer Dr. Be Jongh's Light Erown Cod-liver Oil, which approaches in taste as near to tliat delicacy, the sturgeon " Caviare," as anything I ever tasted, leaving its medicinal properties in the hands of such eminent authorities as Professor Liebig, Y/ohler, Berzelius, Pouquier, Dr. Jonathan Pereira, &c., and the Analytical Commissioner of the " Lancet," who so highl}^ speak in its favour.
famed antiquity
187
SOYER'S
NEW
CHEISTMAS EECEIPTS.
'
hot.
The sauce
I prefer
with
it is
as foliows
Make
half-a-piut of melted
188
butter, as
SOYER'S
NEW CHRISTMAS
RECEIPTS.
No. 410, or ordinary plain melted butter, rather thick, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, a sma.ll glassful of noyeau, the juice of hall a lem.ou, and a pat of butter; stir quick, poiir over your pudding when very hot, or serve separate in a sauce-boat. You beg of me a simplified receipt of my Christmas pudding. You cannot expect that it will be as good as the above and if I consent to give it you, it is upon the sensible remark that you make add
to
it
;
ciiu-gs
good as the above, yet in its way it will far excel thousands of pudwith richer ingredients, wdiich are made at this festive season
of
tlie
year for w^ant of judgment in the proportion. Fudding simplified. Stone half a pound of common raisins, wash and clean half a pound of currants, half a pound of beef suet chopped fine, two ounces of brown sugar, three ounces of flour, three eggs, half a pound of bread crumbs, half a gill of rum, and a gill of m,ilk. Mix all well the night previous, put in a cloth as above, boil three hours, and serve. Pour over melted butter in which you have put one tablespoonful of sugar and the juice of half a lemon, if handy.
Tlie above
Fudding at a trifling expense,'-^ pounded cinnamon, lemon, or orange peel, chopped fnie, or a drop or two of any essence, a couple Cut of sharp apples cut in dice, and a few dates or French prunes.
the
spice or
the same, using only half the raisins or currants. Observe, Eloise, that I send you this receipt as a dainty dish, or bonne louche^ therefore, if you find it a little complicated in its details, it will at the same time well repay the extra time and trouble, and hardly increase the expense, as I perceive it only costs
two
refer
shillings
and fourpence,
in
small quantities.
But
for those
who
them
to receipts
wdii(;h is still
Deab Eloise, You are aware that any great event in every nation has almost always left behind some national culinary reminiscence of the circumstance, and many a sanguinary battle is kept aliAy in our memories, both in youth and age, from our eating either pud For instance, the French ha\8 dings or cakes to commemorate it. have out their poulet a la Marengo, from that great battle. Michaelmas goose from Queen Elizabeth's victory over the Spanish
We
SOTER'S
Armada.
Mince
pies,
new CHRISTMAS
pancakes, &c.,
all
RECEIPTS.
189
have their data. It would part to add anotlier of these everlasting delicacies to the above manj^, under the glorious title of tlie " Alma Allied Budding/' And may the palate of the future generation be as gratified with the excellence of this concoction as the ears of the present one has been vvith the announcement of the grand
not be attempting too
much on our
which
two of these
be hoped, form the rainoow of and illuminate for ever as a might^^ meteor the
will, it is to
darkness of despotism.
The Alma Budding. Make half a pound of bread crumbs, which put in a basin ; add two ounces of sago, six ounces of fine chopped suet, five ounces of sugar, four ounces of sultana raisins, six eggs, half a gill of rum, and one tablespoonful of apricot jam. Well butter the interior of a pudding basin ; add the mixture. Put some water in a sauce -pan, set it on the fire ; when beginning to boil, put in your basin, which ought to be a httle more than half immersed in the water. Boil gently on a slow fire for two hours ; take it out, pass the knife between the basin and puddingj and serve.
The Sauce. Put in a small pan two tablespoon sful of apricot jam and two glasses of sherry ; warm gently, when boiling pour over. JIoio to Ornament the aiove. The interior of the basin or mould may be nicely ornamented with ciu-rants, green angelica, sultana and Malaga raisins, candied peel, almonds, ginger, &c., &c., which will firmly adhere to the pudding. The first I made 1 ornamented with a sugar drum fixed on the top, the three allied flags passed through, forming a trophy, surrounding it with brandy balls; a gill of French brandy round it, set on fire, and serve. All the above ornaments
may
be obtained at a confectioner's.
Christmas Dish. most delicious and cheap dish, easily made, Buy sixpenny worth of light sponge-cake and raspberry rolls, which cut across in slices about hali-an-inch thick; lay them on a small dish in a circle, one lying hair over the other ; put in an oven for ten minutes, add in a small stew-pan two tablespoonsful of furrant-jelly, two glasses of sherry, put on the fire, and when boiling pour over and serve. Any jam, jelly, or marmalade, will do. Pancake a la De la Pole. Break fom^ fresh eggs, separate the yolk from the white, which put in two different basins, add to the yoke two tablespoonsful of white pounded sugar, half a one of flour, half the rind of either an orange or lemon, chopped very fine, or a drop of any good essence ; beat the whole together, and then with a whisk whip the white of the eggs as you would for a sponge-cake. This requires some practice. When hard and white as snow, mix lightly with the yolk, then have ready a very clean frying-pan, which put on a slow fire, add an ounce of butter, when melted put in two tablespoonsful oi
I^eio
190
SOYEK'S
new CHRISTMAS
on a
RECEIPTS.
it
as a pancake, turn it
serve.
done put them one on the other. Sugar over, While paying a visit in Devonshire, v/here I invented this dish, I introduced a gill of cream, previously whipped, which made it very delicate. Ordinary cream may he used instead. ^ow to malce Mincemeat, Chop fine one pound of heef suet, fcTir ounc )s of lean beef previously roasted, half a pound of apples, four ounc js of raisins previously stoned; the above articles must be* chopped separately ; put them all in a basin, add to it two ounces of candied lemon and orange peel and citron; cut these small, then put in a quarter ounce of mixed spice, four ounces of sugar, mix the whole well together, add in the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a pint of brandy, stir it, put it in a jar, and use when required. Stewed tripe (cold) may be used instead of beef, and half an ounce of bitter almonds and lemon peel. The above, if made one v^^eek before Christmas, will answer every purpose, as I wholly object to fermentation. Line your patty -pan with pufr-paste, No. 315a, fill thee-parts full with mincemeat, cover over with paste, ^^^ over, sugar, and bake. Moyal Chistmas Fare. The mince-meat as made at WindsorCastle every year, the ingredients being mixed one month before wanted, is as follows: 240 lbs. of raisins, 400 lbs. of currants, 200 lbs, of lump sugar, 3 lbs. of cinnamon, 3 lbs, of nutmeg, 3 lbs. of cloves, 3 lbu5. of ground allspice, 2 lbs. of ginger, 300 lbs. of beef, 350 lbs. of suet, 24 bushels of apples, 240 lemons, 30 lbs. of cedret, 72 bottles of k-andy, 3 lbs. of mace, 60 lbs. of lemon-peel, and 60 lbs. of orange-
-peel.
New Style of Mince Ties. Have ready some mince-pie pans, take some firm butter, cover the inside of each pan with it to the depth of an eighth of an inch, lay on this half an inch of bread crumb, made as JSTo. 452, let it aU be of the same depth, then fill your pans with stewed apples, as above, till quite full, then lay on some more bread crumbs, on which put a small piece of butter, and bake for half an hour in an oven, then turn out on a dish. They will be found excellent. You may use any kind of small baking-dish. Apple Toast. Cut six apples in four quarters each, take the core out, peel and cut them in slices; put in a saucepan an ounce of butter, then throw over the apples about two ounces of white pounded sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water ; put the saucepan on the fire, let it stew quickly, toss them up, or stir with a spoon: a few minutes will do them. When tender, cut two or three slices of bread half an inch thick, put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter, put on
the fire ; when the butter is melted, put in your bread, which fry of a nice yellowish colour; when nice and crisp, take them out, place them on a dish, a little white sugar over, the apples about an inch
thick.
Serve hot.
SOYEil'S
NEW CHUTSTMAS
EECEIPTS.
191
2nd Lesson, with Improvements. Egg the top of the apples, bread-crumb, and put a little butter over; put them in the oven for They are also half an hour, sprinkle over with sugar, and serve. good cold. A tablespoonful of currant jelly, or any nice jam, or a The bread glass of port, sherry, or brandy poured over is excellent. may be well toasted, buttered, and sugared over, the bread being cut in any shape you may fancy, either round or in dice ; they will dish well in crown shape. A glass of rum or brandy may be placed in the centre and set on fire when sent to table. If served cold, whipped cream may be put over. Amongst my Christmas gifts I must not omit one of the simpjG.^t and nicest that I ever concocted. It is at once sim^ple and economical, and should follow the immortal plum-pudding. New Manner of Stewing Fears. Take six large pears, well ripe, which at this season of the year can be bought for about two pence each, cut each in two lengthways, peel them slightly, put them in a very clean stewpan, cover them over with three ounces of white sugar powdered, slightly peel a lemon, cut the rind into small strips, press the juice on top of the sugar, gently shake the pan, it will dissolve the sugar, then put it on a very slow fire for ten or fifteen minutes, shake it gently once or twice, turn each piece with a fork put it on the fire, and let it stew again for ten minutes. When done, put them on a dish to cool, then dress them on a flat dish, pour the syrup over, and serve. They may also be done in a slow oven. The ahove varied. Two teaspoonfuls of currant jelly or jam, marmalade, or orange may be mixed with syrup, or half a glass of either marasohino or brandy. Any kind of pear, if ripe, will do. The core, if large, must be removed.
OMISSIOK
and cut in two, one pound ; slice these rather fine, chop them up with some green sage, or bruise with both hands some dry ; then put in a black pot or pan two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping ; add in the chopped onions two teaspoonsful of sage if green, three if dry, one of salt, one of brown sugar, half one of pepper. Set this on a slow fire, letting it stew for fifteen to twenty minutes ; then with a spoon stufi* your bird while the onions are quite hot. This may be done in winter a few
Goose
Siuffincf.
For a middling
altogether about
days before it is put to the spit, as it imparts to the goose a nice savoury flavour. Jloto to vary the Staffing: Four tablespoonsful o bread crumb may be added, or two of broken biscuit, or four of chopped apples, or four of rice, oi four of cold boiled potatoes, or a little chopped lemon, or a little herbs of almost any kind, or chopped boiled beetroot.
192
INDEX.
* In tliefolloioing Index, the figures with the letter p. refer to pages ;
the other
numbers refer
to receipts.
Bacon, observations on
Batter
curing, p. 32
.
462 461
a-la-mode
.191
plainer .192 . . . cold . . . 166, 193 aitch, or edgebone of ". brisket . . stew in baking pan . .224
.78 .78
113 169 159
Bread, brown rye cottage crumb keeping milk plainer rice Broiling, p. 17 Brown gravies
Browning.
Carthusian
collops
....
.
Ill
Butter Anchovy
:
Black, or burnt
curry of
. .
.
.
.
.
.
hashed
leg of
158a
.
.
.
.
.
. .
174
minced pudding
233
.
. .
235
.78 ,78
.
Cakes Almond
:
roast
.
237, 238
round of
.
.
ribs, salted
207
Gallette, poor
.
man'
.
.
. .
78, 227
aristocrat]
,
skirt
spiced 226 steak in baking-pan 171 173 to 136 139a semi-fry 262 . . . pie
.
....
.
.
.
.78
Orange
Plain
.
.
family
devilled
Plum
on
stewed ragout of
....
.
117 224
.
.
vegetables with
ground
. . .
Rock
Soda
Spice
, .
400 442
Bread, on n brown
.402 .406
feet
INDEX
Calf's feet jelly.
;
;
.
. .
193
, .
358
87 125
EggSjboiled, plain
boil, to
.
I
.
liead
lieart
liver, semi-fried
s,
for toast
187 tongue, head, &c. pudding 243 329 Cheesecaices . Ciiemistry of food, p. 5 Chickens, see Poultry Chopping of onions . . 449 Choice of meat, &c., p. 170
Cofiee original hints
.
mixed
omelette, or fraise . with herbs
.
shell-tish
bacon
oysters and
. .
301 302 303 304 307 308 306 310 311 312
313 314 315 305 309
87
on
.
446 466
spirit
.
314A
.
.
161, 166
poached
sausages
453A
.
.
.
356 443
Feet, calves
pig's
.
.
pastry velvet
S87A
.
,.
sheep's
:
203 83
. .
white
.
.
Fish
21.
. .
.
To cook
,
.
55 56 59 60 75
464b
.
.
89
205
159 362 365 361 363 368
93
How to
Brill
Fried, p. 26 ascertain
165A
. .
Cod
.... ...
.
.
.
when done,
.
p. 21
52 57
liver
103-110
6(i,
.
.
.
.
.
62,
Cutlets, see
Conger Curry
eel
....
.
61,66,222
89 49 50, 59
.
.
.
111114
.
...
.
71
85
stewed. Flounders
Fritters
.93-100
.
.
47
Drinks
Gurnets
.
.
.
.
.
. .
Api^le, &e.
467473
340 347A, 348 347 328 . 349
.
Hallibut
Dough
Jewish fashion
in oil
.
.
.
Dumplings, apple
li-mon
77
Hake Haddock
Herring, red
. .
.62,66
40, 62, 222
.
38
fresh
Eggs, on,
.,
i15
,
Ling
300
39,71,220 62,66,222
Mackerel
194
Fisn-^coivHnueeS,) Mackerel, in pie-dislj pickled . Pilchard Plaice Salads . . .
.
."
xsjmsL
Sauce
Soles
Giblets Gridiron,
plain, for invalids
.
205
.206 .255
26
what
my,
p. 17
Haddocks,
on, p. 32
see Fish
Ham, important
.
observations
.
. .
.82
.451
63
, .
. .
72, 73, 47
.
Sprats
Tench
Turbot
221 58 53
61
Lmagination, effect
Irish stew
.
.
of, p.
.
.183
Whiting
In baking stewpaa
Pieces of in ditto
. ,
>
Eels
ditto
Puddings
Pies
Fritters
. .
plainer
eel
mackerel
Jam
Jelly
.
.
.
.
.
.
. .
....
.
.
.360
Fruits:
damson . Apple, buttered fritters cake drinks rice water stewed, Nos. 1,
. .
,
,
2,
sauce
.
. .
lOtchen requisites
Lamb,
p.
33
.
.
boiled leg of
. .
.83
.126
.159
149
chop
curry
fry
Currant jelly
Fritters
head
Frying,
heart . kidneys
leg
136
140 ,141
.... ....
. . . . .
.
115,194
.125 .134
194
neck
. .
roasted, semi
Game :
215 Hare, toad in the hole 216 jugged 217 marinaded 215 Larks . Partridge and cabbage pud254 ding 204 Rabbits, large Dutch 212 Kabbit, semi-roasted 215 toad in the hole 251 pudding . 265 pie . 84 boiled 153 semi-fried
.
Liver,
baked
pudding
Larding
.
. .
,.
. .
.
ox
.96,244
.
. cod . stuffing
balls
calves'
....
.
104109 .459
460
147,148,190,244
. ,
lamb's
stuffing
.
.
244,245
,457
Mackerel,
see Fish
A
INDEX.
Macareni
. .
195
323A
.
.463
Meats, a series of receipts on . 95 Marketing, on, p. 170 . 94, 95 Meal, Indian poulenta Meat, boiled, cold, and broiled 130, 226 159 curry . 161, 162 . fritters . minced . . 156, 158 , 3,
322
454
92
....
.
.
.
panada
.
.
.
Pi-ckles
465
artisan's pie
.
.
158a .166
.
J,
233
. . .
J,
.215
1I1*114
Carthusian
.
pork
fish
. .
.
hare
rabbit
Mushrooms
443
poor man's
.
Mutton :
boiled
.
Pig's kidneys
. . .
.
.
.
.81
120, 121
chops
cutlets
.
.
.142
.
ff
pudding
ragout of remains of
247
heart
liver
.
.
.
.
. .
.
Omelettes,
Eggs
196, 197
.
. ,
.215
124, 145
. .
hashed
leg,
.159 15 8A
.
.
Onions, to chop
. 449 . . Oven, baker's meat, p. 93 Ox cheek . . .115 .215 toad in the hole . 125, 177, 179 heart tail 176 ,177 . kidneys % 155 liver, 1st Lesson on . tongue, potted and braized. 184 fresh and pickled 185 16 5 tripe, curried . . pickled . 165 . . Lyons way .164 . toad in the hole ,, .165 sauted or semi-fried, ,, ,t
.
.
baked, p. 95
.
pie
salt
.
.
.
. .
264
2'50
pudding
. .
198201 .215
.111
and vegetables,
. . . .
Carthusian
boiled sausages
. .
.79
.128 .129
.
I'l.'j
.
,
Poultry
To
Devilled
,209 ,150
86,
165A
.
.254 .154
150, 151
Ducks,
p.
'
Tancake
ra.ste, puiT
380
316
317 SIS 319
Fowls
Fritters
315A
half another plainer short
.
....
173
.
-
.161
135, 152
Geese, p. 173
318a
. .
, .
.
. . ,
.85
.
pudding
on, p. 119.
roasted semi-roasted
.
2M
Pastry,
FruiV
Koasting
,
.211 .233
252, 253
Pudding
196
Puddings
Baked
.
:
INDEX.
FuiymsGS(c(mtinued.) Dough, with apples
Yorkshire, 1st class
.
f
Observations on
Meat, on Beef with kidneys Roast beef . Slince beef, with eggs
.
Veal
376
225, 377
.
2d 3d
:
do. do.
378
.379
Relishes
.241 Calves' brain and tongue Sheeps', lambs', and pigs' do. 242 .243 Calves' head and tongue .244 Lamb, veal, and ox liver 245 . Do. plainer
.
Mutton
246 247 248 Sheep's head, tongue, &c. . Lamb . . 249 250 Pork , . Rabbit . . 251 252 Chicken Pigeon . 253 253 Do. in brown gravy . . 254 Partridge and cabbage 255 Young rook . . 256 . Fisli 257 . Do. plainer . . 258 Mackerel . 259 Eel . . . 260 . Baked . Ilalf-stcamed 261 Important observations, p. 103 Cloths, on . 261 ^Sweet, p. 12S 334 . Plum 3Iould . 335 .
. .
. .
Bones, devilled 131,132,412 411 Herring with whisL y . . 413 . Mushrooms . 415 . Mussels . 446 Oysters on toast . 447 scalloped . . 4^4 . Rabbit, Welsh . 444 . Irish 448 . Scallops 3 ?? Toast broiled and devilled
Rabbits, see
Game
.
Rice:
With
apples
to boil
. .
How
Cakes
Bread
Croquettes Preserve
Panada
Pudding
Savoury Roasting,
on, p. 88
p.
.
.
91 351 90
How
Time
Semi
to roast, p. 8S
90
.
.
Cottage
91 90 207
Fruit
S35A
,
.
Salads,
336 337 . 338 Plain rice . Spotted dick . 339 Apple and paste . 341 . 342 Suet . 343 Bread . 344 Brown bread Rice, vermicelli, and macaroni 345
.
436
4
lentil
435a
.
.
36
43G
4-29
Cabbage
Celery
.
lettuce
.
.
. .
Crab
Cucumber
Dandelion Endive French Fish
. .
.
.
,,
,
,
Broken biscuit 344A For a large family and school 346 and Rice preserve . 350 Ground rice % 351 .
.
<
Lettuce, coss
353 . . . 354 Bread, custard, various ways 367 'K.gg 366 . Lemon . 373 , Potato , 375 .
. .
Onions
Potatoes
I'oultry
436 440 43G 4S2 . 430 431 i29, 440 428 . 432 . 438 433 . 436 437 . 438 .
.
.
.
.
INDEX.
BAtADS-^icontinued.)
197
25 19 26 10 14 32 31 30 29 35 34 36 37
97 18
Sow s-^(coninmed.)
.
Kadish Sauce
.
.
. .
.
.
.
Vegetables for
Water
Fruit
cresses
,
. .
. .
369,370
.
Mock
turtle
.
. . .
Sauces :
Anchovy
Apple
.
.
Brown
Bread Caper
.
.
.
.
425E
. . .
Ox-cheek in pan
Ox-tail Pea, cheap . meagre Pot-au-ieu, FrencI I
.
. . .
Cod
liver
.
.
Crab
Cream Cucumber
Curry Do. simpler
.
Egg
Fennel Fish
...
.
.
425B 425C
.
<
411
Harvey's Horse-radish
Hotel-keepers*
22
.
.
.
33 11 12
1
1
.22
. .
simplified
12
21
7 5
.
.
.
thick, or puree
6
1
Mint
Mussell
marrc)w
.
.
.
.20
10,164
IQ . 13 . 172, 173
:
veget ables
meat
.
Seasoning
Sheep's brains
181
88
feet
.
.
Shrimp
Soyer's Relish
INIustard
.
.
.
.411
.
.
180 tongue and 3rain pudding, 242 Stewpan, baking, p. 69 Stock for soups . 1
.
heart
Spirit sauce
417 411
2
.
. .
413,419
.
liver
veal
18
8
.
.
23
9
.
.
.
new
. .
Cow-heel
Giblet
.
22 22 23 23 15 26
Tarts, plain . Tea, a few hints on Toast, broiled and d evil led Toad in the hole, I\(). 1 No. 2, potatoes
.
.
.
Hare
27,28
3, 4,
5,
6,
7,
198
Toad
in the
INBEa.
h)
e
.
215
Vegetables Ccoj^^mwed.)
Greens, cabbage spring ,i thousand heads Haricots . 202, 294, Kail .
.
No. 8, rabbit No. 9, hare No. 10, pDrk Ko. 11, salt
28,!
29^1
29J'
Veal,
, ,
boiled
cutlets
cliops
,
.
.
.
. .
80
123, 143 ,144
. .
,
,
^ , , , , ,
cutlets for the aged choice of, p. 170 leg of, baked remains of . ragout of . .
stuffing
fillet
122 170
294, 29 i\ 29
0(
'
287:
Potatoes on
,
of
in
baking stew-pan
.
.
new
baked with sausage
.
if
it
or
.
Soyer's
...
.
mashed
new, roasted
fried
.
.275
, .
p.
pudding
175
241
selection of,
Vegetables, on the
Ai-tichokes, Jerusalem
277 with cheese sauce 293 283 Asparagus 283 sprew 290 Beans, broad 290 Windsor 291 French and kidney 282 Beet, red and white 292 Brocoli 293 with cheese sauce 280 Carrots 281 white 287 Cabbage, stewed 465 red, pickled 292 Caulifiower with cheese sauce 293 284 . * C/Clerj .
....
.
.
.
.
sv.
285,28.
Brussels
.
2dGA
o
.
279
Thousand heads
Turnips
.
*.
283
278, 28S
.
pudding
|
435 114
Water, coloured
*&3A
on or before which
l^iM^i
.,^^piipRii^iiiii