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Lake Victoria to Khartoum, with rifle & camera / by Captain F. A. Dickinson
... with an introduction by the Rt. Hon. Winston Churchill and numerous
illustrations from photographs taken by the author.
Dickinson, Francis Arthur, 1874-
London ; J. Lane, 1910.
http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc2.ark:/13960/t74t6p53g
Public Domain in the United States
http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-us
This work is deemed to be in the public domain in the
United States of America. It may not be in the public
domain in other countries. Copies are provided as a
preservation service. Particularly outside of the United
States, persons receiving copies should make appropriate
efforts to determine the copyright status of the work
in their country and use the work accordingly. It is possible
that current copyright holders, heirs or the estate of
the authors of individual portions of the work, such
as illustrations or photographs, assert copyrights over
these portions. Depending on the nature of subsequent
use that is made, additional rights may need to be obtained
independently of anything we can address.
'*
CB VICTORIA
I TO KHARTOUM
I WITH RIFLE & CAMERA
|%Capt.RA.DICKINSON I
! Wth, an Introducton, by The Rt.Hon. I
WINSTON CHURCHILL I
W'.:
M
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LAKE VICTORIA TO KHARTOUM
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. .*: .* *: : : .*. * *
. . . . : ...
THE RT. HON. WINSTON CHUKCHILL, M.r.
A REST B THE WA SIDE
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LAKE VICTORIA
TO KHARTOUM
WITH RIFLE CAMERA
By captan F. A. DICKINSON
D.C.L.I.,F.R.G.S., WITH AN INTRODUCTION
By the RT. HON. WINSTON CHURCHILL
AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS FROM
PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN B THE AUTHOR
LONDON OHN LANE THE BO DIET HEAD
NEW ORK OHN LANE COMPAN MCM
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, t
' : : - . .-

PL MOUTH : WM. BRENDON AND SON, LIMITED, PRINTERS
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INTRODUCTION
I KNOW by e perence that Captan
Dcknson n person s an dea companon
and gude through the countres whch he
descrbes and I ee sure that those who are
ess ortunate than myse w nd hs book an
e ceent substtute or hs presence. They w
rea e rom hs manner o wrtng hs constant
cheer uness, hs stores o resource or every
d cuty and emergency, and hs u knowedge
and understandng o every probem whch can
con ront the traveer or the sportsman. Eephants
are to hm ke partrdges, and hppopotam ke
hares and he has an eye whch can dent y
the rarest o the anteopes by the twnke o ts
ta behnd a thorn-thcket at a hundred yards.
A hs advce on the detas o bg-game shootng
s based on ong e perence nterpreted by sound
nstnct and acute ntegence and the ony
drawback to hs teachng s that t w not aow
hs dscpes the sats acton o mprovng on t.
252448
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
Under a terary stye whch s a hs own,
Captan Dcknson has a message to convey. It
s the nterest and sprt o a genune sportsman,
who knows how to nd the game, how to k, and
much rarer uaty how to spare.
He s ortunate n the countres n whch hs
servce has an. These great wd ands o er
to the young o cer not ony opportuntes o
sport or adventure, but a contact wth respons-
btes and reates whch s a speca educaton
n tse . Few return to the prosac routne o
peace-tme soderng n Engand wthout new
uates o knowedge and character, to com-
pensate them or the regrets wth whch they
ook back, and o ten, aas, or the heath they
eave behnd them. Readng these pages brngs
vvdy back to me meow and charmng recoec-
tons o Brtsh East A rca and Uganda, two
years ago the str n camp be ore daybreak,
break ast under the stars, the ong tramp through
the drppng eephant grass whe the sun rose
hgher and hgher and the thermometer bounded
up n company, the oases o rest n the bandas
wth ood and drnk assumng totay new vaues,
the coo o the evenng, and the ong sttngs
v
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Introducton
round the camp re and the thr o the steathy
prowng through reed and thcket n the rh-
noceros and eephant country, when at each
moment the ne t step mght dscose the hde o
some unconscous but ormdabe enemy.
These paths are rapdy growng ess sotary.
The steamers mutpy, the raways e tend.
Important ootsteps brush back the unge. The
hunter who rom some secret spot watches the
sow processon o the eephants, or surprses
the rhnoceros gra ng pacdy, s surveyng a
threatened not a vanshng cvsaton. We
approach the perod o more game-aws and ess
game. The achevements whch ths book records
w become ncreasngy rare as the years pass
by, and Captan Dcknson's aunty chronce w
one day be studed by a generaton o sportsmen
who w vew the good od tmes wth envous
and utmatey unbeevng eyes.
WINSTON S. CHURCHILL
vn
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AUTHOR'S PREFACE
I MUST say I beeve n beng as up to
date as possbe, so that whenever I go
to a new country, usuay a sem-savage
one whch has happened pretty o ten, snce
I have been e traordnary ucky ever snce I
oned the Servce , I make a pont o buyng,
borrowng, or steang the very atest book about
that country, and o gettng myse we up n
ts communcatons and geography, and n the
present-day customs, habts, and the hundred
and one detas connected wth ts nhabtants.
As others may be o ke mnd, I am tryng
another wd wed o the pen n order that my
shootng che y e perences may not be ocked
up n my own bran and there ore wasted, when
somebody n ths era o bg-game shootng, e -
poraton, and trave mght possby bene t rom
ther beng put on paper.
The od-tme hstory you can we a ord to et
sde or the tme beng, as that makes a the
more nterestng readng ater, when you nd
yourse eadng a more or ess e ctng e stence,
very key n one o the paces or dstrcts where
that hstory has been made. Then take up your
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
hstory book and earn the resut w be that
the dangers and d cutes o the od days w
be brought be ore you n a ther ntensty.
Moreover, your studes w be not a tte
asssted by the e orts o the oca savage, who,
on ndng that the whte man does know some-
thng about hm, begns to e pand and to become
ute con denta, t n the end you are abe,
wth the ad o a ew hnts and a tte udcous
pumpng, to e tract endess stores, anecdotes,
and ok-ore out o hm. A these tte thngs
are bound to do good n the ong run, as they
tend to mprove the reatons between the natve
and the whte man. I you can show a know-
edge o oca geography and menton the names
o some o our brave e porers who were the
poneers n these out-o -the-way corners o the
gobe, and who bore the burden and heat o
some ong-ago day to hep make and then to
consodate the Brtsh Empre, the natves are
mmensey peased, and proceed rom story to
story about them.
On the Whte Ne n Uganda they know a
about Emn Pasha, Sem Bey, and the bg
Engshman wth hs w e Sr Samue Baker
as we as ots o others, and w aw away t
a's bue aowed.
These tte detas are mportant too rom
another pont o vew, as they nst the wsdom
o the whte man nto the mnds o the savag:es
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Author's Pre ace
and mpress them wth hs ceverness and genera
knowedge wth the resut that they are not so
apt to try and do hm n the eye, or practse
ther tte petty deceptons and subter uges.
Moreover, when they nd out that the Brtsh
o cer s there vng amongst them not merey as
a udca o cer to sette ther amusng matrmona
a ars or cases o nter-trba catte- tng- or what
not, but as a human beng who s aways ready
or a day's sport or who apprecates a good oke,
they are much more amenabe and easy ed.
Ths aso makes or a happy and peace u tme
or the sad o ca whose busness t s to take
charge o the dstrct.
Whst n command o the escort to the Rght
Hon. Wnston Church, m.p,, the then Under
Secretary o State or the Coones, rom Lake
Vctora Nyan a to Gondokoro, whch s a
ourney rom the bottom, practcay, to the top
o Uganda, t struck me that t woud be as we
to put some o our e perences on paper or uture
re erence, and, when that trek was rounded o
by a vst to Khartoum on Mr. Church's knd
nvtaton as hs guest, and a spendd shoot the
whoe o the 1500 odd mes back, I decded to
wrte ths book.
On my andng at Gondokoro rom a deght-
uy happy Chrstmas week at Khartoum, and an
e ceent shoot on my way up the Ne, success-
u che y owng to the many great kndnesses
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
I receved rom varous o cas o the Sudan, I
reated the story o my adventures and e per-
ences, and my rends cred, What a ucky dev
you are !
I know I am, but, good uck or uck, one
does not secure a good bag, ncudng a coupe
o ons, wthout much hard work and st
marchng.
The best turn my uck ever dd me was when,
whe guardng, or hepng to guard, Boer prsoners
n Ceyon, I receved an une pected teegram rom
Engand orderng me on a Muah hunt. From
a sportng pont o vew ths suted me top hoe
and or other reasons aso ! It may sound strange,
but a subatern n a Brtsh n antry regment
sometmes wonders where hs ne t ver s
gong to drop rom ! I t doesn't arrve some-
how, the un begns !
Snce that day the ary goddess has avoured
me wth her smes. Long may she contnue to
do so ! I t my hands n suppcaton !
I hope the shootng notes and e perences, as
we as the descrpton o the d erent varetes
o bg game that are to be met wth n East
A rca, whch I have endeavoured to dscuss n
Bg Gane Shootng on the E uator, may have
proved bene ca or at east hep u to some
sportsman who s on the hard-work tack, and
wants to make a coecton o typca heads o
A rcan bg game. Anyhow, I'm pungng nto

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Author's Pre ace
the vorte aoan. The other book rst saw the
ght o day whst I was on ths trek wth
Church, and as I had no etters or cose on
three months, t was rather e ctng to know
what was happenng to the poor dear thng !
However, aways be merry and brght s a
househod phrase that s appcabe to most
occasons and certany meets ths one.
In the present work I am endeavourng to
portray the anmas that the average sportsman
may meet on trek n Uganda and the Whte
Ne dstrct, o-vn ther habts and habtat as
neary as s possbe wth photographs much n
the same way as I deat wth those o East A rca
n my ormer book.
F. A. D.

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CONTENTS
Mr. Wnston Church's Introducton
Author's Pre ace
Introductory Chapter
L e and Scenery n Uganda ....
The Ne
Mr. Church's ourney through Uganda to
Khartoum .......
Uganda Cob
Eephant
Khartoum and Omdurman. Chrstmas, 1907
Lon
Roan Anteope
Whte-eared Cob
The Bahr-e- era
Tang
bushbuck .
Back to Uganda . . . . .
Hppopotamus
Top
Orb
PAGE
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65
105
109
118
140
148
153
156
169
172
179
204
211
213
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
Bound or Khartoum once more .
Further E perences wth Eephant
Whte Rhnoceros .
Water BUCK
Game Reguatons : Uganda
Game Reguatons : Sudan
Inde ....
PAGE
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253
274
282
286
308
327
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ILLUSTRATIONS
A Rest by the Waysde
Kampaa .....
The Kng o Uganda. The three Regents o Uganda.
The Rt. Hon. Wnston Church, m.p. The Governor o Uganda.
Type o Country n the Gondokoro Dstrct
A Typca Uganda Road
The 4th Battaon K. A. R es route marchng.
The M H Msson, Kampaa
In a Banana Pantaton
A Uganda Byway
A Cosy Camp
Borassus Pams near the Ka u Rver
The Head o the Sa ar .
Lght and Shade n the Budonga Forest
The Strange Outcrops o Craggy Hs
The Great Swr o Water .
The Vctora Ne .
The Wooded Banks o the Whte Ne
The Murchson Fas
Lookng up the Rpon Fas to Lake Vctora
Wooded Bets adorn the Rver
The Foa Rapds
A Seres o Tempestuous, Tumbng Rapds'
A Thunderous Sound o Fang Waters
A Euphorba
Forest-cad Isands dotted about ts Course
The Sacred Portas o Abu Smbe's Tempe .
Ph/E, wth the Assuan Dam n the Background
v
Frontspece
To ace page
. 6
8
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42
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
A Whee on the Ne Bank
La ness s n the Ar
The Pyramds
The Sphn .
Our Party On Trek
Leut.-Co. Wson, and H.G. Captan D knson. The Rt,
Church, m.p. Leut. Fshbourne, r.e.
Mr. Ormsby. Mr. Marsh. Dr. Gode.
Hon. Wnston
Dr. Thompson, 4th k.a.r
Burnng Weeds n a Banana Pantaton
Landng or the Nght
Che Dora's Frendy Secton o the Buked
The Ne at Fa ao .
Camp n the Lme-grove at Masnd
Rea St Wakng
Our Shootng Camp on the Ne
Frngng a Marshy Khor
Our Camp on the ar sde o the Assua Rver
A Group o Bar Trbesmen at Gondokoro
The Kt Rver Crossng
A Corner o the Paace Gardens
Uganda Cob
The Strcken Ru an
The Paace, Khartoum
A Street n Khartoum
Gong to Bed
The Whae-headed Stokk B a nceps Re
The Kha a's S uare, Omdurman
The Madh's Tomb .
A Natve Water-whee
Lon
A Bu Roan
A Cow Roan
Whte-eared Cob
TANG
Sudd Banks on the Bahr-e- era
To ace page
62
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Iustratons
To ace page
At the Top o the ebe era . ... 6o
BusHBUCK . . . . ... 178
Two BusHBUCK Heads and a whoe Rhno Horn . . 178
The Water ay knee deep upon the Leve Pan . . 184
A Fre uent Murmur o Waters . ... 184
Waterbuck . . . .... 186
One o those Bottomess Morasses'' . . . 186
Vstas o Everastng Sence . ... 196
In the Forest . . . ... 196
Eephant Country . . . ... 198
Du e . . . ... 198
A Baby Hppo on Lake Abert . ... 208
The Hppo hard and ast to the Bank . . . 208
Orb . . . . ... 214
Camp was Ptched wthout Deay . . . 214
Our Swamp Toets . . . ... 222
My dear Dogs . . . ... 234
A Wooded Range o Rocky Hs . ... 240
The Path became Uneven . ... 246
Eephant Country on the Banks o the Ne . . 246
A GOOD Bu Eephant . . ... 258
The Peasng Resuts o a Grand Day's Sport . . 258
Eephant Country. In the Budonga Forest . . . 260
The Cuttng up . , . . . . 272
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LAKE VICTORIA TO KHARTOUM
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1
LAKE VICTORIA
TO KHARTOUM
I
INTRODUCTOR CHAPTER
IN these pages, n order to avod the con-
usng use o the names o the d erent
dstrcts nto whch the Uganda Pro-
tectorate s dvded, I am gong to appy
the name Uganda to the whoe country rom
Lake Vctora Nyan a, n the south, to Gon-
dokoro, the northernmost pont onng up wth
the Sudan. Ths w save the repetton o the
names o the varous provnces, and conse-
uenty the contnua dsturbng gances at a
map t w aso enabe the reader ready to
dstngush between Uganda and the Sudan
the two countres wth whch I am deang n
these traves.
As regards the pecuar habtat o any par-
tcuar speces o game, I sha o course make
a dstncton where necessary, mentonng the
varous dstrcts the anmas are to be ound n.
However, n order to gve the stranger a very
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
rough dea o the Uganda Protectorate, I may
state that the kngdom o Uganda proper e -
tends rom the Rpon Fas n the east neary
to Lake Abert n the west. Between ths tract
o country and the Vctora Ne es Unyoro,
whch stretches rom Lake Abert on the west to
Mru and Lake Koga on the east. Usoga we
hardy touch, but ths country es east o the
Rpon Fas and e tends towards Mount Egon.
Traveng northwards we come to the Ne
Provnce, yng on the rght or east bank o
the Ne, rom Lake Abert as ar as Gondokoro,
peoped by the Aur, Mad, and Bar trbes, n
the order mentoned, rom south to north. Fur-
ther east o these s the Acho country, whch
we don't touch at a.
In my ast book Bg Game Shootng on the
E uator I deat wth porters and ther ways,
camp e upage, and such-ke thngs. I w not
repeat what I sad there, nor w I say anythng
about cothes or the battery whch t s advsabe
to take out, e cept that t s hghy mportant to
provde onese wth a good doube-barreed
500 or '577 cordte e press r e, as ths s the
country par e ceence or eephants.
By the way, now that the sub ect has cropped up,
so many peope have asked me at what spot they
shoud am when shootng at an eephant that t s
worth whe makng a ew remarks on ths mpor-
tant pont.
4
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Introductory Chapter
We w suppose the herd has been ocated,
and, what s more, that a bg bu has been ound
whch the sportsman has determned to brng to
book. The savage empoyed as gun-bearer has
wth n nte care sa ey conducted hs empoyer
to wthn shootabe dstance, .e. twenty- ve yards
or nearer possbe, wthout the herd gettng
the sghtest suspcon o hs cose pro mty and
moreover we w presume the uarry to be broad-
sde on.
There are two shots open :
a A sma hoow can easy be dstngushed
ha -way between the eye and the ear- o/e. A
buet put nto ths penetrates the bran and ks
the eephant at once.
d Bsect hs ore-eg vertcay and hs body
hor ontay, and am some s nches behnd and
beow the pont where these nes ntersect.
Ths shot oors the great uadruped on the spot,
and he cannot move, but has to be nshed o
I have heard ths atter descrbed as the heart
shot, but very much doubt the correctness o the
term or the oowng- reasons. An anma when
shot n the heart, though dead to a ntents and
purposes, nvaraby gaops wdy straght or-
ward t the pumpng o the bood caused by the
heart's acton ceases, when he as down pumb.
An anma shot anywhere n the neck nstanty
drops ke a og owng, I am n ormed, to the
many nerves whch run rom the bran to the top
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
o the heart beng touched. Ths anma shot
n the neck however, s not dead, and the coup
de grace has to be admnstered.
Now, I have seen an eephant shot n the heart
as we as one oored wth the heart shot, and
the behavour o each was as descrbed above, as
s to be e pected o a good wd beasts. The
ormer was a screamng tenor! I have asked
severa medca men about ths, and the consen-
sus o ther opnon s that the so-caed heart
shot s n reaty the neck shot n other anmas,
snce the eephant has practcay no neck to speak
o and that ths shot catches the nerves n the
neck and parayses hm.
To contnue. I the eephant s not ute
broadsde on but rather turned towards you, don't
shoot, wat, because your buet may have to
pough ts way through nches o sod bone
be ore reachng the bran. I he s acng sghty
away rom you t s possbe to shoot up the
ear-hoe but advsabe to wat. I he s acne
you end-on, but st unsuspcous, don't shoot
wat agan. Remember t s ar better to make a
dead snp o an anma that a the word s
an ous to shoot, not so much or the sport and
danger attached thereto as or the monetary
vaue o hs tusks, by watng two or three hours
even, than to mudde the busness by ettng hm
get o wounded, very key never to be met
wth agan.
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Introductory Chapter
I an eephant s acng you, the reason why t
s advsabe to wat s because the ony vuner-
abe pont s so very tny, and you are ute key
to be a shade shaky whst beng stared n the
ace by the argest and most dangerous anma n
the word. Under such crcumstances the chances
o a success u shot are not good. The pace to
shoot hm when n such a poston, however, s a
sma depresson at the uncton o the trunk
wth the orehead, mdway between, and sghty
beow, the eyes.
I you are beng charged ths s the pont to
am at, as n no other pace can you k hm
be ore he s upon you. I you ht hm n the
heart, or nstance, he st contnues hs mad
career, and woe betde you he catches you !
The ony thng to do s to gve hm both barres
at once, amng or that spot n hs orehead, and
gt as hard as you can eg t, down wnd rom
hm the grass s thn enough to permt o your
dong so, aways hopng or the best. Even
your am be not ute accurate you w gve hm
a thunderng headache and probaby stop hm
but ne t mornng, don't orget, that head w
st be on hm, and he w be very versh nto
the bargan. So watch t 1
It s very annoyng when a bu eephant wth
sma tusks or a cow charges you, as you may
have to shoot n se -de ence, and they both count
on your cence amongst the two aowed to be
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
ked moreover, the tusks o the cow are con-
scated even you are not ned or saughterng
her.
No t s not advsabe to pay any pranks wth
these dangerous brutes.
An unsportng shot s n the knee. I you
ht the eephant here he cannot move, as hs ne t
step woud brng hm down, and he knows ths,
so he has to stand st t he s brutay done to
death. As a matter o act, ths s a very d -
cut shot, as hs knee s so ow and the grass s
usuay so hgh that t s o ten ute mpossbe
to make out where the knee s. Ths shot s
not n vogue nowadays t has not been practsed
snce the eephant was e termnated rom South
A rca n the od days.
One more pece o advce be ore we eave the
sub ect. Don't ever go near a strcken eephant,
even though he may be yng on the ground and
to a appearances dead. Wak round behnd
hm and put a buet nto the back o hs sku,
rakng n towards the bran. Many a man has
come to a nasty, messy end by wakng up to
a dangerous anma supposng t to have shu -
ed o ths morta co, when n reaty the
sad anma was ony stunned by the smashng
bov/ o the buet, or ese o ng.
In the case o a other anmas, am cose
behnd the shouder and you get your vctm n
the heart or ungs. ou aways know when
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Introductory Chapter
the buet has penetrated these atter by the bood
tracks beng rothy. The neck shot aways
hods good, however, and I nvaraby take ths
n pre erence to any other I am on my day and
shootng straght. But n some anmas the neck
s necessary a sma target, and so a ga ee or
orb shoud be taken behnd the shouder,
A hppo one must shoot n the eye or ear, as
these are about a one sees o hm above water-
eve.
A chargng rhno carres hs head so ow n
the act o gaopng that one can shoot over t
nto the neck n ront o the shouder.
A chargng on you must ht where you can,
and be oy uck about t, amng usuay at the
head, I suppose.
About the sa est pace or a crocode s n the
under part o the neck, as ht anywhere ese he
nvaraby manages to scrambe down the bank
nto the rver and s ost.
In concuson, I woud say that t has been my
am to show how each speces s key to behave
under ordnary crcumstances. In order to attan
ths ob ect I have been care u to record ath uy
my actua e perences, and, uness otherwse
stated n the te t, have seected cases n whch
the game anmas acted n what I consder a
typca manner.
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II
LIFE AND SCENER IN UGANDA
TH E kngdom o Uganda, together wth
the provnces o Usoga and Unyoro,
consttute one happy and o perpetua
greenery.
O'er h and dae, swamp and pan o'er the
bets o eephant grass ntermngng wth the ta
and statey orest trees, n appearance somethng
ke an Engsh em, whose whte trunks rse hgh
above the undergrowth o'er the whoe verdant
andscape, trembes and wavers, year n year
out, a peary shmmerng ha e o heat-waves. A
seepy, steamy sence, too, prevas. The ony
constant sound that greets the ear s the monoto-
nous whrr o the tree- roo as he shakes hs
wngs aganst ther horny coverngs, whst tucked
away aganst the rugged bark o a tree trunk.
The occasona sounds are now the harsh
gabbe o a ock o gunea- ow, as the brds rse
and y out o one's way, makng beeve that they
are dread uy rghtened at one's ntruson now
the rush n the unge besde one's road o a
started herd o water-buck on the way back rom
the mornng drnk now the crashng o a herd
o eephants somewhere n the depths o the
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L e and Scenery n Uganda
orest, smashng the trees to matchwood whe
seectno ther mea o twgrs and eaves. Were
the sotude not thus dsturbed, t woud be d -
cut or a person to beeve that he s not the ony
vng thng n the countrysde.
Very d erent s the aspect o the country
north o Nmue on the road to Gondokoro but
o ths more anon su cent to the day !
The ourney rom East A rca across Lake
Vctora to Entebbe, the capta and seat o
Government o the Uganda Protectorate, s per-
ormed n a steamer, a spck-and-span creaton o
the Uganda Raway, admraby urnshed wth
every modern com ort, and so more ke a gor-
ed yacht gdng over an a ure sea to the Ises
o the Hesperdes than a prosac erry-boat.
To those on the steamer, Entebbe shows tse
as a tte per wth sheds and customs-houses
dotted about at the water's edge, aganst a back-
ground o arge, green, shady trees, estooned
wth brant red-voet strands o bouganvea.
Od Government House ust peeps out rom
amongst the oage, and beyond everythng rses
the h whereon New Government House s
beng but, wth the Unon ack wavng over-
head.
A short wak up the whte road hedged wth
pumbago and hydrangea conducts us rom the
per to the tte stone houses, each n ts pretty
garden, pctures uey dotted on the sopes o a
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a
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
arge green amphtheatre o grass whch stretches
to the reeds borderng the ake, whence the vew
e tends to the Sesse Isands, summer ses o
Eden, set n dark purpe spheres o sea, as they
are so apty descrbed by Sr Harry ohnston, a
ormer Governor.
The houses above mentoned are the resdences
o the Government o cas. There are some
e ceent tenns courts, and a sma cub house
we paced n a centra poston near by. On
beyond, at the urther p o ths green saucer, are
the Fort and the Roman Cathoc Chape.
A beaut u scene, yet u o ravenng woves
wthn !
That e dsease, the seepng sckness, and
ts harbnger, the dreaded tsetse y now, ortu-
natey, amost totay e termnated at Entebbe,
ownor to the cearno- o the orest and round the
shore o the ake have decmated the popua-
ton here. Where are the tte ary shng boats
that ought to dot the bue waters o ths nand
sea, and thus compete ts pcture Fsh there
are n penty, but the shermen have ong snce
ded or dsappeared owng to ths deady maady.
A arge sand whch the steamer passes on the
starboard bow n the course o the voyage rom
Port Forence to Entebbe used to boast a census
o some twenty thousand peope, whereas now
ts popuaton numbers barey two hundred !
Behnd the ordery rows o houses, pctur-
12
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a
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s
s
_
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e
#
p
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s
L e and Scenery n Uganda
es uey stuated between avenues o soanum
trees wth ther whte and purpe owers, come
the hospta, the bank, and the o ces and shops
o Entebbe then, borderng the road to Kam-
paa, twenty-three mes away, come the poce
nes, ther tte round whte straw-thatched huts
n per ect order, ookng ke the s uares o an
mmense chessboard.
Kampaa s the od capta, the home o the
Kbaka, or Kng o Uganda proper, and the
seat o hs natve parament.
One's rst mpressons o a new country are,
I thnk, usuay tempered wth dsappontment.
However, none but the most obtuse or narrow-
mnded ndvdua coud take e cepton to the
scenery that meets the eye on the road to Kam-
paa. Seated n a rcksha, wth one's our cooes
keepng up a wd, rhythmca chant a about
the Boss they are pushng whch s ony so
much so t-soap n the hope o the nevtabe
Backsheesh to come , one punges at once nto
a strp o orest and. Back and whte hornbs
y n and out among the topmost branches o the
o ty trees whch rear ther heads above the dense,
u urant tropca undergrowth, ormed by an
mpenetrabe tange o creeper stretchng rom
bush to bush. But, aas ! ever s or ever sttng
on the tp o one's nose, yng n wat to catch a
decate consttuton.
The vew, however, s restrcted : one sees but
13
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
a narrow bet, bordered on each sde by rustng
banana shambas, each pantaton conceang ts
uota o natve huts.
The broad road wnds about, now rsng now
ang sghty, n and out between the hs and
swamps, and the nhabtants n ther nce cean
cothes come runnng out at the song o the
cooes to try and nd out, n ther n ustve way,
who t may be. For a wonder, ths road does
not go n a straght bee-ne, because t has been
surveyed by Brtsh engneers or motor tra c n
the uture. The reay o cooes that meets us
ten mes or so rom Entebbe pushes us aong
through the same pretty scenery t Kampaa's
cathedra rses conspcuousy nto vew, and then,
toppng the ast rdge, the town es spread out
be ore us.
Lke the cty o Rome, Kampaa s but on
seven hs, whch have names ar too ong and
unpronounceabe or me to attempt to spe cor-
recty. In the od days these seven hs were
usuay at war wth one another, but now a s
orgotten and orgven, and every one s rendy
and at peace.
Kampaa s respendent n greenery, and, owng
to the act that the trees and grass are pcked out
wth broad red roads, presents a strkng spectace.
Mengo, the kng's h, s more or ess n the
centre, and the monarch's com ortabe house and
budngs are surrounded by a hgh watted cane
14
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#
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L e and Scenery n Uganda
ence o the descrpton caed ksskat, whch
s very e ectve. Most o the houses o any
pretensons n the country are ornamented wth a
pang o ths cane-work, whch heps to make
them ook more we cared or and tdy than any
smar natve abodes n other Eastern cmes.
Lookng out rom Mengo H, the hgh-peaked
cathedra o the C.M.S,, on Namrembe, and the
ong red roo s o the Roman Cathoc Msson on
Rubaga, catch one's eye to the north, whst to
the rght and underneath the ormer s the od
Fort on Lugard 's H, where he rst ptched hs
camp when the adherents o the Church o Eng-
and were at varance wth the Roman Cathocs.
The cathedra ust mentoned s a most m-
pressve ed ce. Some two hundred eet ong
and one hundred wde, ts was are but o burnt
brck, wth o ty coumns o the same matera
supportng the grass-thatched roo , whch, runnng
up nto three hgh peaks, orms an mposng and-
mark or the country ar and wde. There s a
broad verandah a round, the roo o whch and
o the nsde o the cathedra s beaut uy and
very neaty ned wth nce cean whte canes, each
cane bound to ts eow n taste u patterns o
strng-work. These canes end a partcuary
strkng nsh to the otherwse somewhat goomy
nteror.
Cose by the cathedra s the e ceent natve
hospta, aso managed by the C.M.S., wth ts
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
ong cean wards and rows o spotess beds most
o them happy untenanted when I was there
and ts pretty vew over orest and pan to the
west.
Lookng back agan to the e t o the kng's
encosure, the cv and mtary h s seen to
rse above the Indan Ba aar, streaked wth red
cay roads whch show up strongy aganst the
verdure, n whch houses are dotted hapha ard.
Beyond, n the ar dstance, through a tte gap
n the wooded hs, one can ust catch a gmpse
o the ake somewhere near where Kampaa's
port, Munyonyo, ought to be, about s mes
away. Round agan due south comes the M
H Msson, on the occason o our vst thcky
crowded wth tte natve boys and grs a
cothed n geamng whte kan us, sngng
Here we go round the muberry bush. A
kan u s the unversa dress or a ages and
casses, and s a repca o the od- ashoned nght-
shrt !
The kng, or kbaka, as s hs oca tte, s
asssted t he attans hs ma orty by three
regents, one o whom. Sr Apoo Kagwa, the
Katkro or Prme Mnster, pad a vst to our
natve shores at Kng Edward's coronaton. A
mnor matters o State are e t by Hs E ceency
the Governor to be setted by the regents and
ther Parament. The resut o ths s a very
methodca and compete system o natve ad-
6
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s
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#
p
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L e and Scenery n Uganda
mnstraton. Natve tc ants as numerous here
as n other parts o the gobe ock to the ustce
or n ustce meted out to them at the hands o
ther own con reres.
I thnk that has about done wth Kampaa and
ts hs at east, I can't remember any more, and
t's amost tme I began a descrpton o other
statons and scenes, as we as the aspect o the
country as seen by any traveer on any road.
Uganda s a brght green ! I've sad as much
be ore, but t s necessary to emphas e ths act.
We now eave behnd the orest and and come
nto the open country.
Ths s a hy and and between each h s a
swamp, whch o necessty mpedes one's progress,
and when that s combned wth the act that
great thck eephant grass, anythng rom teen
to twenty eet hgh, grows u uranty on each
and every h, you have a practcay mpassabe
country.
And t s so to a ntents and purposes, e cept
or the Uganda roads. I ua y them wth that
ad ectve deservedy, as there are none others ke
them on the ace o the gobe. They are a the
same : dead straght, no matter what comes n
the way. They are ke the Ark, an od-estabshed
concern, and never dream o gettng out o the
way o the e treme tp o a h, but go sap over
t n the most e asperatng ashon and then, as
a rue, down the other sde to the uttermost
c 17
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
depths o the vaey between that h and the
ne t. The bore o t s, there aways s a ne t !
In act, the oca method o udgng dstance here
s not so much by hours' marchng, as by so many
* mettuahs hs and n the north, near
Gondokoro, by so many rvers, rver beng a
euphonous name or the stagnant marshes whch
aone vary the monotony o the eephant grass.
These same marshes are crossed by ong narrow
causeways, but upon pes drven nto the ground
so as to orm two rows : ogs, reeds, grass, and
earth are thrown on the top o and n between
these, eavng a ew tte cuverts underneath the
road to enabe the water to dran o rom the
stream above. A we-kept causeway on a much-
used man road w have a ow ksskat ence
some two eet hgh on each sde, whch heps to
mprove ts appearance.
At the end o the recogn ed march, when one
reaches camp, and aso ha -way aong the route,
are to be ound a ew bandas, or grass huts,
but ready to sheter the beated traveer. There
s usuay a bg one or the Bwana master ,
one or the cook, and another two or three or
boys or what-nots. Ths consttutes the scene o
one's evenng rest. I these huts are re uenty
burnt down and rebut on a new ste, they are a
source o great com ort, as they a ord most
wecome shade rom the a ternoon sun, and are
coo and roomy to ve n. I not destroyed
8
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5 '
3 3 9
3 3 3
,3 3 3
3 3 ' 3
s
C 5
5

I' mt
'% s
63

o
o
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#
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G
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2
0
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a
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s
s
_
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s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
L e and Scenery n Uganda
perodcay, the creepng thngs nnumerabe
whch take up ther abode n them are a contnua
pague and worry.
At ntervas aso and ths appes rather more
to the tny by-paths through the unge one
bursts out o a tange o eephant grass or bush
upon a neat cearng, n whch w be seen, acng
a sma patch o cutvaton, a round beehve-
shaped hut o grass, wth a ow door, n ront o
whch two or three tny brats are busy engaged
n buyng the goats and chckens. ou can
aways bet on three thngs there besdes the drty
chd bananas, sweet potatoes, and bark-coth
trees. Each amy s absoutey se -contaned,
so to speak each grows on ts own patch o
c round a the necessares o e. Bananas when
roasted and ground up make our o a sort !
and then, besdes, you can bo 'em, or ry 'em, or
do anythng you ke wth 'em whst you may
make tembo or natve beer out o the nce
yeow sweet ones that you and I eat. So these
smpe ok can ead a uet e, or go on the
bust as they ee dsposed !
The sweet potato very o ten grows underneath
the bananas, and s, together wth these atter,
the common ood or porters n ths part o the
word. The sweet potato s an e ceent thng
or keepng and cear o weeds. Some peope
grow a tte Indan corn as we, but t s not so
o ten seen.
19
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#
p
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
Then round the whoe show comes the bark-
coth tree, out o whch the natves make the
ong strps o Indan-red coth that they dress
themseves n. Ths has a curous ook o corduroy,
but s poory woven and does not wear we.
A very good way o makng a hedge n Uganda
s to cut a number o poes rom bark-coth trees
and ust stck them n the ground where you want
them to grow, be ore the rans, and a terwards
you w nd that they have a struck, and
produced eaves ke so many Aaron's rods.
Some shambas, as these patches o cut-
vaton are caed, boast the presence o the papaw
tree, whch bears a rut whch s ute paatabe
when a ew drops o resh me- uce aso grown
on the premses are s uee ed over t.
These chdren o nature are oreat on chckens
and eggs, and are deghted to produce them as
a soace to the weary traveer, but the eggs are
best poached or red or obvous reasons. The
nhabtants are a uet, submssve peope, keep-
ng the road near ther abodes care uy weeded,
as much n obedence to ther oca che as n
accordance wth tme-honoured custom. They
take o ther hats n a most pote manner when
they meet one on the road, and say *' Ow ! wth
broad grns n return to one's sautaton o
Weywuy ! We taught our regmenta dog,
Peter, that, and he aways responded wth a ow
grow. They aren't bad porters, and they don't
20
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#
p
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5
1 *
t 1 t 5
'
THE M, I. HII.L MISSION , KAMPALA
IN A KANAKA PLANTATION
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#
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G
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#
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L e and Scenery n Uganda
make a uss, whch s a great thng. I hate
peope who are aways shoutng and grumbng
and askng or mpossbtes.
I now propose takng our sa ar o the
hard hgh road or a bt, and gong more or ess
across country to Masnd the reason beng that
the vstor has probaby got ute bored enough
wth an undevatngy straght road though a
neaty ad-out staton, such as Homa, es many
mes away at the end o t and woud wsh to
see somethng o the tte-known paths and by-
ways o the beaten track.
A ter eavng Bombo, the head- uarters o the
4th Battaon Kng's A rcan R es, the oca
troops, whch s stuated on a ong rdge, rather
hgher than, and overookng, the surroundng
country, we reach the Busbka pans n the
course o a coupe o days.
By the way, the menton o Busbka brngs
somethng nto my mnd that I had very neary
orp otten, one o the thno s or whch Ug-anda
s amous ts aw u and n erna thunderstorms.
More or ess reguary at a certan tme day,
varyng a tte earer or a tte ater a ter a our
or ve days' dose, the couds bank up, heavy,
back, and gowerng n the south, wth the ghtnng
ashng ke By oh ! n the mdst. A hush
comes over the and the cam be ore the storm.
Shorty a du roar s heard amongst the trees
above the dstant boomng and rong o the
21
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#
p
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
thunder, and then, heraded by a bast o wnd,
bendng the trees n ts path, the storm bursts
rght overhead and s upon one. Pourng, drench-
ng ran, not ang, but beng teray upset n
bucket us, starts the programme, accompaned
by the most vvd ork-ghtnng I have ever
seen, and the bangng, crashng, and voeyng o
the thunder, I remember years ago a thunder-
storm at ena, n Germany, whch mpressed me
as a boy by the way n whch t payed round
the h-tops overhangng the town, backwards
and orwards and I have e perenced severa
smar storms n the Hmaayas, where the sght
was magn cent but I have never been so awe-
struck n my e as I have by these aw u storms
whch contnuay hang around the vcnty o
Lake Vctora. I saw a tree struck the other
day n the orest when I was out n one o these
demonaca per ormances. The tree was attened
straght out and that, combned wth the genera
atmospherc dsturbance, made me thnk a bt !
In about twenty mnutes t's a over that s
to say, temporary, as one usuay gets a back
kck o the ran or another ha -hour, whch,
however, s not so bad as that whch accompanes
the rst burst o the storm. Then the sun comes
out and a s at peace agan, though soppng
wet and so we go on, the muttered curses
graduay subsdng as the sun's rays dry one's
sodden cothes. But to-morrow's repetton o
22
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#
p
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A UGANDA B E-WA
Note the M'eaver-Brds nests
A COS CAMP
s:e pae:e30
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#
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L e and Scenery n Uganda
ths day occurrence w ca them orth once
more. It s sad that these storms come o ute
three hundred days out o the 365, round the
ake, and I thnk that statement s we nsde
the mark. I shoud magne that even Leap
ear makes a d erence !
A ter eavng the oot-hs, whch seem to end
n the Busbka dstrct, we enter on a ourney
across practcay at country, wth the gentest
unduatons ony here and there a and where a
h s a thng to wsh or as a dverson to the
andscape. Wndng through the short grass n
country that resembes a gor ed orchard, we
oow the ootpath, whch s now a mere track,
ever and anon breakng out nto a scrupuousy
weeded s - oot road as we near the ne t shamba.
The Waganda are a gregarous ok, and where
one shamba sprngs up, there w others be co-
ected together.
We are now bearng north-north-west between
the Myan a and Lugogo rvers, whch are some
twenty- our mes apart. I shoud not ca ths a
good game country, but there are a coupe o
arge herds o eephant whch w a ord heaps o
e ctement n case our mnds are bent that way.
Avadavats and pretty tte grass nches rse n
couds on each and every sde, and the gay-
panted touracou or pantan-eater ts rom tree
to tree where the bush merges nto orest. Les,
whte and red, oursh n ther thousands or the
23
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
rst teen mes, otherwse a contnua vsta o
bush and gades takes us to the vcnty o the
Ka u rver.
Now we come to the and o pam trees,
beaut u ta borassus pams, wth ther ong
straght trunks sweng out ha -way up, and then
narrowng agan. Bunches o orange-red nuts
o sorts custer underneath the wde-spreadng
rustng ronds, ornamented wth the nests o
countess weaver brds, whch dange there rom.
Ths means that we are nearng the rver Ka u,
the boundary between Uganda and Unyoro. We
cross at the end o the dry season over a wthered
tange o reeds and mud, bndng the roots o the
oatng vegetaton together, and a ordng a
somewhat doubt u oothod as one staggers over
the uakng mass. Beneath ths run the deep
waters o the rver, whch ows suggshy nto
the Vctora Ne at Mru.
In the dstance, towards the north, we now
catch sght o the hs round our temporary goa
Masnd, st some twenty- ve mes away.
A ong, ong, wearsome march s ths, through
thcksh bush country, a dred and decayed
underneath the trees at ths tme o the year t,
on onng the Mru road, we drop nto a pretty
vaey u o natve huts, cheek by ow wth
ther brght green spashes o cutvaton, whch
show up to advantage aganst the red-brown so.
Masnd, nestng under the shadow o the h
24
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#
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3 5 9 .
1

o
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#
p
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c- o r c
G
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_
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#
p
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s
L e and Scenery n Uganda
o the same name, s or was, I shoud say taste-
uy ad out wth avenues and groves o Cape
ac and bue gums, by that nest o gentemen
rders and best o eows, poor Roddy Owen.
Peace and prosperty are apparent on every sde.
The prospect rom the eevated verandah o the
resdent o ca's bungaow s peasng. Houses
peep out amdst the trees, and numerous gardens
and shambas, contanng crops o a sorts, cothe
h and pan ake, whst the oreground around
the Government o ces s brant wth masses
o red and yeow cannas, the whoe scene we
set o by the purpe Homa hs to the south-
west.
Ths s a great uncton o hghways. From
ths centra poston one can ourney aong we-
made roads to Mru, Fowera, Fa ao and the
Murchson Fas there, Homa the capta o
Unyoro, and Butaba.
We w take ths ast route, because t eads us
through the great Budonga orest, whch s we
worth vstng ony on account o ts scenery
and aso because Butaba s the head- uarters o
the Ne ota, whch w transport us yet urther
north on the bosom o the Ne as ar as Nmue.
We bd arewe to the unge track we have been
marchng aong up to date, and betake ourseves
to the hard hgh once more, rong over h
and dae, now descendng to the uttermost depths
o a swamp, now rsng over the hghest spot on
25
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a
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s
s
_
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#
p
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s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
the rdge. At rst the road wnds ts way through
a popuous and rut u country, the oca savage
beng a shade more o -hand than the Baganda,
t a ter some ourteen mes t punges nto a
vrgn orest.
One passes o a sudden rom the burnng gare
o an A rcan sun, rom the back and yeow
burnt-up grass and the stunted trees outsde,
trembng n the noonday heat, to a dm mysterous
vsta o back tree-trunks, accentuated at re-
uent ntervas by the patches made by sun-
beams shnng rom above on to the pace be-
neath.
The road througrh ths orrand orest s or the
most part at, but wth two or three very deep
ce ts where the rvers n the rans run through
t. One sde o the road s n the Game Reserve,
so that you nd eephant on that sde you have
to wat t they have crossed the path be ore
shootng them. In ths orest there ves a
mysterous speces o anteope, caed Intaaganya,
pecuar n that the maes carry no horns. M'sam-
ba and M'vu trees rear ther bare whte trunks
some hundred eet nto the ar, spreadng ther
enormous branches or the remanng orty or
ty eet over the rubber vnes and thck under-
growth that chokes the way. Beaut u butter-
es n thousands tter hther and thther
great hornbs rase ther harsh screams, and,
together wth the pretty pctures ue back-and-
26
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#
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a, 5
5 , ' 3
, 5 3
3 3 3 3
3 3333,3 33,
U 3 3 3 3,
3,3 33'
3 3 , 3,3
' 3 3 ' '
3'' 3 ',3 3 ,3
, ' , ' '
3 3 t 3333 '33 3 3 3333
THE HEAD OF THE SAFARI
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#
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c e It
c c
C c *
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s
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#
p
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L e and Scenery n Uganda
whte Coobus monkeys, that peer at one and
skp about the trees, rudey break by ther ds-
cordant cres the sence o a prmeva orest.
Or s t that these harsh sounds mpress the
surroundngs upon one the more emphatcay
Somethnor seems wantng- n the unnatura
hush a ter the ruste o the ards n the grass
and the contnua whrr o the tree- rog and one
wecomes the sght and sound o the scamperng
monkey hgh above, as a peasng contrast to the
sombre sence beow.
Perhaps we may meet a oggng camp, and
become aware o the rythmca hsh o the
saws, or hear the echo and echo carres ar n
these goomy depths o some savage at ogger-
heads wth another o' that k over a sweet potato
or somethng e uay mportant to hm. But one
rea es that harsh and dscordant sounds are
unavodabe. They beset one's dmy ghted path
through the orest, as they beset some other paths
on e's hghway ! Lght at ength breaks the
darkness, and suddeny we nd ourseves once
more n the bndng gare o the sun, and be ore
us Lake Abert es spread some thousand eet
beow uet, pacd, and cam.
We now descend the steep escarpment and
tramp or about ve mes through dusty bush
and sandy pan to the harbour o Butaba. A thn
hook o wnd-bown sand runs out nto the ake,
and curng round towards the north, makes an
27
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
e ceent natura haven or the steam-aunch and
stee boats whch comprse the Ne ota. Ths
bay s some our hundred yards across, and s
ary deep n the mdde. Across the water the
Congo mountans, that consttute the watershed
between the Ne and Congo basns, are ceary
vsbe, to the north-west the sugar-oa peak that
stands behnd Began Mahag beng easy
dstngushabe.
o
We w break o here temporary, as the
voyage down the Ne s descrbed esewhere, and
t woud n rnge on the copyrght o another
chapter to tak about that mghty rver here.
Besdes, she thought she was beng treated
wth undue evty t mght hurt her eengs !
I we hadn't gone to Butaba, we shoud have
marched orty- our mes rom Masnd to Fa ao
and the Murchson Fas, where the Ne breaks
through the steep rocky escarpment whch wan-
ders a round ths sde o Lake Abert. We
shoud have taken a course due north o Masnd
nstead o the west-north-west pont we made to
Butaba. At Fa ao we shoud have crossed the
erry n a bg dug-out canoe, takng severa trps
to convey the oads o tents and ood across, and
thence we shoud have had a. dry, hot, dusty
march or some ourteen days to Nmue by way
o Fatko, whch used to be an mportant staton,
but s now abandoned, as we as Wadea on the
Ne bank.
28
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#
p
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P
,
a 1 3
5 1
LIGHT AND SHADE IN THE BI'DONGA FOREST
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#
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L e and Scenery n Uganda
It seems a great pty that the od Ne provnce,
popuous and corn-growng country that t s, and
e tendng or some 280 mes aong ths huge
waterway, shoud be practcay handed back to
the untutored savage a ter so many ves and
years have been spent upon t, and that t
shoud be represented by three statons Koba,
Nmue, and Gondokoro, wth ony a nomna
area or admnstratve purposes round each
staton.
We w resume the descrpton o the country
rom Nmue onwards, whther we are conveyed
n the good shp Kena.
On andng there we nd the aspect o the
country has undergone a change. Nmue s a
straggng pace, each house beng practcay
soated on ts own h. Cose to the Coectorate
and the Poce Guard-room there s a sma natve
ba aar, domnated over as usua by the enter-
prsng Indan traders. The mtary h, now
evacuated, s nearest the Ne, and the poce
nes are a short dstance down the Gondokoro
road. Behnd, and some tte way rom the
staton, whch s but on the banks o the
Unyama rver, rses a coecton o hghsh hs,
rocky, and amost bare o trees. Instead o the
beaut u greenery o Uganda we are ace to ace
wth rugged hs and barren ground, overgrown
as ar as the eye can reach wth thorn trees and
breast-hgh grass. Ths country struck me as
29
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
beng the counterpart o Northern Somaand,
both n ts vegetaton and aso n the strange
outcrops o craggy hs whch sprng up proms-
cuousy out o the rong pan, some o them
ve hundred to one thousand eet hgh, others
a modest ty ony. Here the so-caed cart-road
to Gondokoro starts, though why t s so ms-
named t s not easy to say n ace o the abrupt
nuahs, as yet unbrdged, and the rvers, whch
when n ood make the road ute mpassabe
both or wheeed tra c and or porters.
Our road goes north, to the east o Nmue
h, on the western sde o whch the Ne oams
and bos down the Foa rapds. I the wnd be
bowng rom the rght drecton the way arer can
ust dstngush the du roar o the waters.
A ter a march o tweve mes a pretty camp s
reached at the uncton o the Assua and Atapp
rvers, over whch ha a do en statey borassus
pams act as sentnes, and the rou- rou o
ther broad an-ke ronds makes musc peasng
to the ear.
The genera trend o the ground s a gradua
3 ope to Gondokoro, and aso to the west. A
the watercourses, dry at ths tme o the year
anuary and the two or three rvers that usuay
have water n ther beds, hep n the rany
season to swe the voume o the Ne, on our
e t hand. The country s at to unduatng, and
there are no hs to be cmbed on the way.
30
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#
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3
5 3 3 5*5
', '
'
5 5
3 3 5353 53 3
. 5 _ 5 5 5
'5 , ' - 5
5 ' ' ' 5 3 ' ' 5 ' '
3 ' 5 ' ' ' ' 5 '3 ' 3 ' '
335 35 5 '3 5 '33 5 3
' A.
THE STRANGE OUTCROPS OF CRAGG HILLS'
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#
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/
a
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s
_
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#
p
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s
L e and Scenery n Uganda
The road goes monotonousy on or 107 mes
through grass and mmosa thorn bushes, the
atter o whch are now cothng themseves n
ther sprng garb o yeow bossom, makng the
bree e decousy sweet. Now and agan a herd
o hartebeest or waterbuck s vewed rom a ar,
trottng o aarmed at the approach o strangers.
Near the Uma rver, whch has aso to be crossed
at the ourth camp, may be seen perhaps a herd
o statey roan anteope, though, on account o
ther amost proverba shyness, ths depends on
good uck rather than on good management.
Herds o eephants, too, re uent these bush
sotudes, orongr down to drnk at the Ne some
ten mes o , and are away agan ong be ore
dawn, back to ther unge ortresses to seep o
n the mdday sun ther moonght reves. Durng
a march n these parts t s rarey, ever, that
one passes a day n whch one does not come
across the tracks o ther eet draggng through
the grass and scrapng the evenng's dew rom
the bades, eavng green marks amdst the peary
dewdrops.
And t can be very hot here ! The orce o
the sun s redoubed through ts rays beng
thrown back rom the rocks and stones, t at
tmes t s a vertabe n erno.
The other rver o mportance, both n s e and
rom a shootng pont o vew, that we cross on
nearng Gondokoro, s the Kt, where we eave
31
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#
p
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s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
the Mad trbe behnd us and make rends wth
the Bar.
A the vages we have passed snce eavng
Nmue are much o a muchness. A thorn erba,
strong enough to wthstand the attacks o a
maraudng eopard or hyena on the vage ocks
o sheep and goats, surrounds a coecton o huts,
each abode made n a crcuar rng o stone sabs,
or o watte and daub, wth a peaked thatched
roo , the eaves we overappng the was. Dotted
amongst these are the curous-shaped granares,
gor ed baskets, some ve eet hgh and our eet
n dameter, perched on poes to keep the rats and
mce at bay. These contan the trbesmen's wordy
weath n the shape o dhurra or met. Ltde
ese s grown n these dstrcts, as they are too ar
north o the e uator, and ther cmate s not
steamy enough or many bananas. Dhurra and
a very ew sweet potatoes orm the stape det o
the peope.
At ast the tenth day's marchng sees us eavng
the dry thorn scrub we have passed very ew
vages en route and enterng the sparse cutva-
ton that betokens the vcnty o Gondokoro
and then the sght o the Unon ack gaddens
our hearts as we wak across the burnng parade
ground to the shady trees near the o cas'
houses, ony a ew yards dstant rom Sr Samue
Baker's od encampment, wth Benan h
behnd us on our rght hand, the scene o many
32
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#
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L e and Scenery n Uganda
a ght between hm and the now peace u
Bar.
And now our ourney s done that s to say, as
ar as Uganda s concerned, and I thnk I sha
not be aone n sayng that, or ts vared scenery
and the nterestng customs and habts o ts
many trbes, Uganda s hard to beat.
33
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
water on the Ne. The Insurance Pocy,
we may descend to such a busness-ke term,
o the raway, was water the Ne. I we
had had a Ne n Somaand the Mad Muah
woud now be non est wth ew to greve or
hm !
The Ne runs out o Lake Vctora Nyan a.
Its precursors are there ore the streams whch
ow nto ths ake : o these the argest and
ongest s the Mara rver, havng ts source n
Brtsh East A rca on the Mau escarpment,
owng through German terrtory nto Lake
Vctora. May we then not speak o the Mara
as the mother o the Ne Ths great a uent
o the ake we dscovered and surveyed, when
on the Ango-German Boundary Commsson.
It s a pretty, rocky stream, broadenng out past
patches o whte geamng sand, whst ts banks
swarm wth every varety o game.
The Rpon Fas at n a mark the begnnng
o the Ne o commerce and geography. Between
these as and Lake Abert t s known as the
Vctora Ne a ter eavng the atter ake t s
caed the Whte Ne n contrast to the Bue
Ne rsng n Abyssna or Bahr-e- ebe o the
Sudan trbes. ebe s the Arabc word or
mountan, so ths name means the rver that
ows past the Congo mountans. For a hundred
mes between Nmue and Gondokoro the rver
dssoves tse nto a seres o as and rapds,
36
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.'/' , ' r''

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#
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The Ne
through some o the nest scenery I have come
across n A rca, now rushng down a narrow
gorge, a whte seethng mass o oam and bubbes,
now Hke a Scotch samon rver n spate, wth
here and there a ong oy poo.
However, the ag has not yet aen, so we
must pu up and return to the post a ter ths
breakaway !
The Rpon Fas are somewhat dsappontng.
One has heard such a ot about ther beauty, and
the grandeur o the brth o the Ne, so what
seems ke a dam across the north end o the
Napoeon Gu part o Lake Vctora Nyan a
wth about an eghteen- oot drop, does not
strke one as beng over-e ctng. It s necessary
to be boated across rom n a on the Usoga
shore to the Uganda bank to obtan the nest
vew o these as. The great swr o water
takes a sharp bend west on the very brnk o the
as, and here one can get ute cose down to
the water's edge. Ha a me urther on one
aces the whoe thng, whch s some three- uarters
o a me across. The roar o the broad voume
o the ake pourng through the d erent channes,
combned wth the spray and the tumbng and
tossng o the waters rushng towards one, s most
mpressve.
Bg sh, a knd o monster barbe caed
Baggara, are to be seen perpetuay umpng
n ther e orts to stem the torrent and reach the
37
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
smooth waters above. Cormorants contnuay
y up to the very oot o the as, settng, and
beng carred down, apparenty ha -drowned, n
ther endeavours to snatch ther nny prey rom
the swrng waters. Down they come, and, on
reachng the end o the tumbng waters, back
they y agan regousy. Ther e orts are
e traordnary !
Crocodes abound here, che y n the ueter
water above the tumut and turmo o the as,
where there are no sunny rocks to bask on, and
where, there ore, the r e n the hands o the
sportsman seekng to whe away a monotonous
A rcan a ternoon n practsng hs cunnng on the
crue brutes, cannot be brought to bear wth much
precson.
Some short dstance beow the Rpon Fas
come the Owen Fas, whch are hdden rom
vew n the mpassabe tange o a prmeva
orest ndeed, rom the Rpon Fas amost to
Lake Koga, the casua traveer sees very tte
o the actua rver. The Owen Fas, wth ther
roarng rapds and turbuent waters, are, they te
me, ner n ther way than the Rpon Fas.
For orty mes, to Kakndu, the rver pursues
ts oney way, wndng through a vrgn orest,
unseen and tte known, but makng ts presence
et n the boomno: o the as and songr o the
water between the orest gants whch rase ther
mghty trunks to the bue vaut above.
38
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#
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The Ne
Ths part o the Ne must, un ortunatey, be
veed rom urther descrpton t we meet t
agan n the neghbourhood o Kakndu, where a
curous steamy og rses rom the smooth oy
sur ace evdence o a greater depth o water
and the cessaton o rocks and rapds.
Lake Vctora Nyan a s 3720 eet above the
eve o the sea, and here we were orty- our
mes away at the ne t navgabe pont on the
Ne at Kakndu e7 route or Lake Koga, at
an attude o 3420 eet, so the drop n ths short
dstance s consderabe.
I take t that ths atter ake stands n much
the same reaton to the Vctora Ne, n the
shape o swamps and sps, as the sudd country
ower down bears to the Whte Ne and that
there ore Lakes Kog a and Kwana whch
ad on one another and reay are a part o one
another make tte d erence n the eve o
the Ne between the two ponts Kakndu,
whch we have e t behnd us, and Mru, whch
we are ast approachng. These two akes, n
reaty ess than akes and more than mere
swamps, are kept gong by the e cess o water
rom Lake Vctora more than by ther own n-
sgn cant rvers runnng nto them rom Mount
Egon and the east.
There s a sght but dstnct current set by the
Ne rom Kakndu to Mru and onwards, n
conse uence o the Karuma rapds near Fowera,
39
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
and the eventua Murchson Fas at Fa ao.
Koga and Kwana are at present nothng but a
mserabe waste o waters. They shoud, how-
ever, a ord a grood means o communcaton or
e port o produce rom the comparatvey un-
known trbes aong ther northern shores as soon
as these dstrcts are opened up. These two
akes woud be nvauabe as we as ndspensabe
or a ne o ght-draught, stern-whee steamers
connectng a Uganda raway e tenson to
Kakndu wth another branch raway rom
Mru or thereabouts, and so openng up the rch
provnce o Unyoro as ar, perhaps, as the negh-
bourhood o Fa ao or Bugungu n the north-
east corner o Lake Abert. Ths woud mean
through communcaton wth Lake Abert and
the Whte Ne as ar as Nmue, besdes openng
up an artery or the e port o the products o
amost the whoe o the Eastern Congo, rom
Mahag on the east shore o Lake Abert. It
w be a great day or the Brtsh Empre
when a s oned up.
There s nothng ke beng an optmst ! I
came across a spendd de nton o a pessmst
the other day. He who has the choce o two
evs and takes them both !
To contnue. The great Mru o the days
o Sr Samue Baker's untrustworthy rend -
Kabarega s done nsh ! More or ess o
a pestenta swamp has taken ts pace. A ew
40
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The Ne
mserabe hoves, t s true, rase ther heads
above the grass and ca themseves a vage
but these are deserted or haher eround n the
rans, when the oods come down and the water
spreads tse over a the ace o the and.
The road to Masnd rom Mru s banked up
to a heght o s or eght eet or some ten
mes, or use n the wet weather.
The Ne ows north rom here, roundng
Tattenham Corner wth the same e t-handed
bend near the Karuma Fas or rapds whch-
ever t peases one to ca them and Fowera
whence navgaton ceases once more, and wth
pacd or broken sur ace n turn t approaches
the Murchson Fas. For some ve mes or so
above the atter rocks and rapds mpress one
wth her od Ne s aways a ady supreme
power and orce, t at the as she surpasses
everythng seen be ore. From the ace o the
rocks at Fa ao erry, beow the as, where there
used to be a ort n the Mutny days, one can
understand that the overpowerng smashng orce
o the great voume o water compressed nto a
sma space has graduay, through cyces o wear
and tear, eaten away the rock, and thus caused
the Murchson Fas to recede. They are sad to
be now a me urther back than n bygone ages,
and at the present day present a stupendous
cataract dvded nto two as, one beow the
other.
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
Above the as the rver s rom ha a me to
a me broad. A short way beow the as the
stream attans a wdth o perhaps our hundred
yards. The as themseves are scarcey twenty-
s eet n breadth. Imagne, then, the scene
they present a swrng torrent, bong, seeth-
ng, and oamng beneath the narrow crags,
broken ha -way by the ponderous rocks t eaps
on and over, resovng tse nto bubbes and
spray beow the pcture s ramed n wth br-
ant green verdure, and the same od eastern sky
above.
It remnded me o Dante's In erno, as, besdes
the grand scenery that t s mpossbe or me to
descrbe n ade uate terms, I saw beow the
shapes, dm and msty through the spray, o the
o eantc crocodes whch add to the ame o the
Murchson Fas. At the erry I pctured them
as so many dread u Charons whst seen rom
the as, they seemed ke the horrd pts nto
whch a wcked sous a and are engu ed.
Huge, oathsome, crue monsters, watng or
ther day bread ! Shoot and never spare !
The usua means o eavng ths pace where,
by the way, there s a teegraph staton s by
boat, as rom here the Ne s navgabe as ar as
Nmue, a dstance o some two hundred mes.
The rst thngs that strkes the observer on
boardng the steam aunch, or one o the stee
boats beongng to the Ne ota, s the n-
42
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s
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#
p
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s
3
3 , 1
3 3
3 3 3 1
,3 3 3 ,
'333
THE VICTORIA NILE
THE WOODED BANKS OF IHE WHITE .NILE
G
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2
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#
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G
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a
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2
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#
p
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The Ne
tenseness o tropca vegetaton. Everythng
wears a garb o vvd green. The grass, the
trees, the creepers, the reeds, a seem to be o a
more voent green than one has ever seen be ore,
perhaps because o the mes o ard stony ground,
stunted trees, and burnt-up orest grass that one
has passed through. It s rather startng, and
ooks as the whoe andscape has been steeped
n crhne de menthe !
The scenery on the e t bank above the ver-
dure s strkng. The escarpment, startng on
the hgher eve o the Murchson Fas, contnues
sharp and craggy aganst the skyne, now coser,
now urther o , t, on nearng Bugungu, t has
dsappeared atogether. The other bank rses n
ueter ashon, and not n such rugged eaps and
bounds as on the opposte sde o the rver, whch
tse vares very tte n breadth durng the
twenty- ve mes or so to the ake about three
or our hundred yards beng the ma mum but
at ts n u to Lake Abert t broadens out nto
a marshy e panse covered wth oatng weeds,
unt t oses tse n the vast area o ths waste
o waters.
Long be ore ths the grand Congo mountans
on the urther sde o the ake have been very
much en Evdence, more especay one sugar-oa
h whch sheters the Began staton o Mahag
at ts base.
St contnung on our traves, whch here
43
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
cause us to turn sharp to the north, our sturdy
Htte cra t sHps aong on the stream, under the
wng o the mountans on the e t bank, whch
overshadow our voyage t they are botted out
by seep.
We awake ne t mornng to nd that the
scenery has changed. On ether bank beaut u
woods, n whch Due pams are occasonay
seen, aternate wth open paces whch permt a
good vew o a hy country. We steam rst on
one sde o the rver and then cose n under the
opposte bank, accordng as the channe, whch
does not vary very much, s known by the man
at the whee. We eave Lake Abert and the
banks o rong mst, through whch ony the
mountan-tops rse nto vew, shuttng n the
hor on on a sdes, and shape our course be-
tween where the eastern bank runs nto a bare,
broad strp o and, and the hs on the west
approach the rver. Soon these atter begn to
deserve the euogstc appeaton o mountans
beow them are green downands stretchng to
the rver. Numerous arge herds o anteopes,
ther red-brown skns ba nor n the sunght,
gra e near the rver sma troops o eephants
are sometmes to be dscerned n ths nesrhbour-
hood whch s a avourte haunt o thers
movng sowy aong the bank and bands o
snarng, rghtened monkeys take to ght as the
steamer oows the tortuous channe.
44
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The Ne
The euphorbas are very strkng n the woods
aong the west bank not the beaut u coumn-
ke tree wth ts candeabra-ke branches, but
the varety whch, owng to ts entangement o
ea ess branches, ooks ke a broom turned
upsde down.
In a parts o the rver, che y at the n u
o the smaer khors, are to be seen baskets and
wers o wcker-work, ndcatng an abundance
o sh. Large and sma shng boats, made
out o hoowed trunks, cross and recross the
stream ther nmates, generay one person, but
occasonay two or three, are very back n
coour, and hande ther snge padde wth great
de terty. Sometmes a dusky rend o the
engneer's on board w e to n mdstream,
hang on to the aunch as we pass, and throw on
board a good suppy o resh sh o a s es to
gadden our hearts as we as those o our
Swah saors.
The rver s re uenty broken by huge rocks
adorned wth motoness herons sttng upon
them. Enormous masses o vegetaton bock
the access to the rver rom the shore : these are
composed che y o papyrus and a varety o
ta reeds and rver grasses pnk convovuuses
twne themseves rom stem to stem, and psta,
wth other sma a uatc pants, orm a thck tur
on the edges o the enormous growth o these
mpassabe masses. Numberess swarms o
45
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
goden weaver brds nd here retreats where
they are never dsturbed a pantng hppo punges
nto the spray-crowned waves, eavng ts shady
restng-pace at the nose o the steamer and
ght, ong-egged waders hasten over the broad
eaves o the water es, pckng up a ew nsects
on the way.
We ted up to the bank o an evenng, and
the nstant the steam-whste sounded the ta
grass started nto e. Savages appeared on
a sdes wth the bunde o rewood they are
pad to cut to repensh the voracous maw o
the boer. A Mad vage woud be stuated cose
by n a probabty. It s usuay sma, and
conssts o rather mserabe hemspherca straw-
thatched huts, wth ther sdes made o short
vertca ogs cosey panted together, and the
nterstces stu ed wth mud. The nevtabe three-
egged granares the vacant spaces between
the dwengs. Dhurra and smsm are argey
cutvated. The men are usuay stark oh !
occasonay sportng a dmnutve apron o we-
worn cotton. They wear ron ornaments or the
most part, though severa o the presumaby
weather members adorn themseves wth vory
braceets above the ebow, and numbers have the
rms o ther ears perced n whch short peces
o st straw are stuck.
In ths part o the Ne, owng che y to Its
e treme breadth sometmes a me to a me
46
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#
p
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3
0_ 9 5 3
3 3
V 5 9 3 3
1
' 5 5' T 1 5-3 3 ' 3 ' 3 ',3 ' 3 3 33
THE MURCHISON FAILS
LOOKING UP THE KITON FALLS TO LALL VrUKLV
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#
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G
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2
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#
p
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The Ne
and a ha mudbanks orm a knd o barrer
through whch the steamer sowy makes ts way
rom one channe to another, generay castng
o a the boats towed behnd e cept one, drag-
gng that through, and then returnng or the
others, takng them one at a tme. The rver
here s a panted bue on the maps, but the
actua channe on ether sde o the mudbanks
s narrow, much o t beng choked by reeds and
papyrus, n whch are numbers o arge bays and
agoons. When the papyrus growth permts a
vew o the shore, you re uenty see steep banks
o red cay, usuay dotted wth houses n the mdst
o ther cutvaton.
Wadea s st a teegraph staton, but deserted
as regards cv and mtary occupaton, as aso
s od Began Wadea over the way, some ve
mes urther north. Here we pass Emn's od
tree, st known by that name, where he sat and
meted out ustce and the monotony o the
scenery gves one tme to medtate on the tras
and troubes endured, as we as the brave deeds
per ormed by that un ortunate man un ortunate
because o great physca a cton and hs tragc
death at the hands o wcked men. Hs name
ves n every savage bran on the banks o the
Ne : an undyng but sorry monument to hs
great character.
Rsng rom the east bank o the rver a ow
mountan chan s seen rom a ong dstance,
47
G
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#
p
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u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
graduay recedng rom the rver. Short grass
and soated ta trees adorn the otherwse bare
anks. Papyrus and yeow- owerng ambatch
deepy rnge both banks. On the east bank
wd rocks, towerng one above the other, stand
ma estcay up but the eve o the country
graduay snks n the neghbourhood o the
perenna Unyama rver, on the shore o whch
s but Nmue, ookng over the pan sopng
towards the east.
The west bank, on the contrary, presents a
pan e posed to oods at paces, whe rather
ho-h and we-washed coumnar mountans rse n
a ong chan, cumnatng at the barrer ree and
rapds, and orm the rocky portas o the Ne
that guard the narrow approach to Nmue rom
the north. Coser and coser they trend towards
the rver, party covered by bushes and trees,
o ten presentng bare c s, rendered back by the
acton o sun and ran. On a st, e uatora
nght a dstant rumbng here announces the
approach o the rapds on the hther sde o the
Foa Fas we are graduay nearng the narrow-
est part o the great rver.
We have passed deserted Began Du e some
ve mes back. For a consderabe tme ths
was one o the che Congoese ports on the
Ne and the tumbedown ramparts o the ort,
to say nothng o ther we-but burnt-brck
bungaows, wth ther broad, ary verandahs, and
48
G
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2
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G
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U
n

t
e
d

S
t
a
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s


/


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w
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.
h
a
t
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t
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t
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/
a
c
c
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
3 ' S 3
, , '
a rah/
WOODED KELTS ADOR THE RIVER
IHK hO.A KA'IDS
G
e
n
e
r
a
t
e
d

o
n

2
0
1
3
-
1
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8

2
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:
4
6

G
M
T


/


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a

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U
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t
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t
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/
a
c
c
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
c c
G
e
n
e
r
a
t
e
d

o
n

2
0
1
3
-
1
0
-
0
8

2
1
:
4
6

G
M
T


/


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d

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:
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t
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U
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w
.
h
a
t
h

t
r
u
s
t
.
o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
The Ne
the gardens surroundng each and a, speak or
the e ceence o Began enterprse n these
outandsh parts.
From peace u Nmue a hundred mes o
unnavgabe rver, o as and shaows, o rapds
and rushng water, break the spe unt Re a ,
on the Began sde, s reached. The rver vaey
becomes narrower and st more narrow, the
scattered bouders row more numerous. On the
banks mghty Due pams rock ther eathery
tps n the so t bree e con ured up by the sw ty
movng waters a group o o ty tamarnds marks
the pace where the path suddeny devates rom
the rver to ead over the hy heghts o ts
con nng vaey, and the way or the most part
eads over ther summts, t down we a to the
Foa rapds. Thorny acacas, sharp-edged grasses,
and rocky rubbe character e the descent and
here on the western bank the great Kuku
Mountans o the Congo begn.
The Rhne, beoved o toursts and renowned
n poetry, s hard to beat or pctures ueness n
those parts where one gets peeps o chateau u td
schossen amongst the trees but or pure, wd,
appang grandeur n the heart o a rugged,
rock-bound country, wth the Peace o A rca
cang ts oudest, I' take the Ne or ts ne t
orty mes.
A seres o tempestuous, tumbng rapds,
through dark and goomy gorges, cothed wth
E 49
G
e
n
e
r
a
t
e
d

o
n

2
0
1
3
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1
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0
8

2
1
:
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6

G
M
T


/


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h
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e
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2
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a
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c

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o
m
a

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t
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U
n

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a
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s


/


h
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w
w
.
h
a
t
h

t
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u
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t
.
o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
eathery papyrus and orbddng umbrea thorn
trees, resuts n the Foa rapds, where the rver
rushes down as through a shoot not so very
strkng or mpressve, t one sees that these
rugged Congo mountans are ust beng tpped
wth the gory o a rsng sun, whst out o the
veed, mysterous depths comes the thunderous
sound o ang waters, boomng the more nosy
n that Creaton has hardy yet awakened out o
ts deep seep.
Khor Eyu, a bong mountan torrent, eaps
and bounds down the ace o the crags under the
ste o a ong-evacuated Dervsh post, erected
here to keep the ne o communcatons open
throuo h ths narrow de e, under the shadow o
ebe Meto. In a seres o as and rapds,
broken now and agan by a cam, sw t- owng
poo deep down between the rocks, or twsted
nto swrs and eddes, onward goes the cease-
ess ow o many waters. Grotes ue orms o
euphorbas stand out upon the naked rocks, now
wth short trunks spttng up nto a semcrcuar
entangement o ea ess branches, now wth hgh
par-ke trunks bearng ony at the summt a
ew candeabra.
The vaey begns to open out a tte, though
the mountans st rear ther mghty crests on
ether hand. On the other sde o the rver, hs
nterchange wth park and and patches o sand
ta sturdy trees provde shade, and wooded bets
50
G
e
n
e
r
a
t
e
d

o
n

2
0
1
3
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2
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G
M
T


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m
a

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t
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U
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a
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o
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/
a
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c
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
, '
' '

t

3 1
1

3 , 3,3
''' * ' -'3' '
-1 t
'*-
A SERIES OF TEMPESIUOUS, TUMBLIM KAPDb

A THUNDEROUS SOUND OF FALLINC, WATERS
G
e
n
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r
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d

o
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2
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G
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#
p
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C C c c t
G
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U
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t
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/
a
c
c
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
The Ne
adorn the rver. Here are the sma begnnngs
o cutvaton on the banks, wth possby a Mad
or Tuktuk vage s uee ed n. Terraces covered
wth cutvated patches o green dhurra, smsm,
and uba, and at tmes a ew huts upon the anks
o the hs, o er agreeabe restng-paces or the
eye. I you ptch your movng camp n ths
neghbourhood, you may perhaps hear the hppo
grumbng and grousng at hs mdnght mea
but st the rugged escarpment towers above one,
n the ouse o the Akko Mountans on the
eastern bank, and the Aron Range n the Lado
encave.
From ths pont the track, st a mere oot-
path, eads aong ha -way up between the h-
tops and the rver, whch s st narrow and
oamno but rather ess ke a mountan torrent
than be ore.
The way snks down nto deep gues ormed
by the ran, ony to rse agan suddeny out o
the swamps to ead us past sma custers o
tamarnds and an occasona borassus pam. On
our rght the Nmue Mountans have graduay
descended, n the mdst o ts orests and woods,
rst to hs, and a terwards to mere e crescences
borderng the rver.
As ar as od-tme Lahore, an erstwhe Dervsh
stronghod o great strategca mportance, the
bue rver oams n a thousand sma cascades and
rapds, rushng out o ts deepy hoowed channe.
SI
G
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s
s
_
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s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
In a ower rame o mnd, et us ook at the
camps by the waysde. One's tent s ptched
under the beaut u shade o a rendy tree, wth
wavng grass on a sdes down to the rver's edge,
reeved now and then by the statey orm o a
pam tree, peasanty rattng ts great ronds to
the tune o the bree e. Rght behnd one a
orest-cad h, resoundng wth the metac be-
ke cang o many partrdges, rses abrupty
and the vew out o one's tent door takes n the
swrng rver, wth ts orest-cad sands dotted
hapha ard about ts course, and the green woods
on the other sde whst beyond oom, ter upon
ter, the red and purpe Congo crags sharpy
outned aganst the cear bue sky the back-
ground to a.
The narrow rver, broken by many a rock, st
oams and roars between the hs, whch com-
petey shut out the vew o the country beyond.
The route, whch has ed over gness rubbe and
whte sand sparkng wth mca, contnuay broken
wth ran urrows and swamps n the bottoms, now
passes through a hy country, seamed and scored
n a drectons by rocks and ravnes. Then the
road crosses rdges o tghty packed rocks run-
nng towards the rver, where they suddeny dp
precptousy down t they hde ther crests n
the eecy breakng sur o the rapds.
A ter these magn cent vews, whch have
pursued one or the ast orty mes or so, the
52
G
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s
s
_
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#
p
d
-
u
s
1 '. *
' , ,
-' r /''.
FOREST-CLAD ISLANDS DOTTED ABOUT ITS COURSE
G
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s
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#
p
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G
e
n
e
r
a
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d

o
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2
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2
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t
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/
a
c
c
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
The Ne
country becomes atter and stoner, and the
genera aspect rather monotonous, as, though the
rver st bubbes and babbes ts way aong, n
vew o the path most o the tme, there s not
so much varety n the scenery to occupy the
attenton.
I thnk t s gettng a bt hotter, too, whch
means that the stones and rocks are comng nto
pay by throwng o the heat rays.
At od Fort Berkey, o whch tte now
remans, there are no hs worth mentonng, and
the rver takes a sudden bend eastwards or ve
mes or so, where the comca tte sugar-oa
e crescence cang tse Re a H stcks ts
nose out o the surroundng Lado pans and
keeps guard over the most mportant Began
post now remanng on the Ne, rom whch t
takes ts name.
And so to Gondokoro, the ast post n the
terrtores admnstered by the Uganda Protec-
torate, the scene o brave Sr Samue Baker's
adventures wth the then trucuent Bar and the
yet more awess save raders. The ramparts o
hs od ort st reman.
Here we board one o the com ortabe stern-
whee steamers, repete wth every u ury, the
property o the Sudan Government. We have
sad good-bye to Uganda and a the pctures ue
porton o the Ne, and, e cept or some e -
ctng navgaton, tte remans to be descrbed,
53
G
e
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o
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2
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G
M
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U
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t
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/
a
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
t the traveer reaches the statey runed tempes
and carvngs o ancent Egypt, amed n the
moongrht and n romance.
Sowy we steam over the sandbanks to Lado,
another Congo staton whch stands, neat and
tdy, on the e t bank. Then n some three
hours we arrve at Mongaa, the southernmost
staton o the Sudan Government on the eastern
bank. The ground here s very ow and there-
ore swampy n the rans, and or that reason
mos utoes and ever are r e. The Governor
o the provnce and some Sudanese troops, wth
the usua compement o other Egyptan o cas,
ve here, and they manage to enven ther days
by the good shootng to be obtaned n the
orest and behnd. There s a very ne gunboat
statoned here one o the atest types, wth twn
screws, verv com ortabe as a home.
We are o agan a ter a short stop to pck
up mas or Engand, and pass Kro, the
most northern Began staton n the Lado
encave, aong whch we have been traveng
ever snce we e t Lake Abert behnd us. At
eventde we pu up at Game a to take wood
on board.
As ths s the ast ue staton t the sudd
country s passed, a the hods on the sanda
are ed up, and every avaabe space s ped
wth ogs. By the way, a barge wth an upper
deck roo ed n wth corrugated ron, caed a
to
54
G
e
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a
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d

o
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2
0
1
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2
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G
M
T


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U
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
The Ne
sanda, s attached wth wre hawsers to the sde
o every steamer. Ths gor ed barge carres
baggage, troops, the post o ce, and e tra wood
when re ured. Athough ndspensabe, the
homey sanda has ts drawbacks. It retards
progress when steamng aganst the current, and
owng to ts presence somewhat o a pande-
monum s or ever ragng outsde one's cabn
door.
ute soon a ter eavng Game a the rver
bends backwards and orwards n a seres o sma
S's. And then the un begns ! The boat has
to go aster than the ow o the rver so as
to keep up steerage way and enabe the hem
to do ts work. For ths reason the pace she
goes when swshng round the bends s very
great, and the method o procedure s as oows :
The steamer s drected straght or the bank
at the head o the bend and hts t wth consder-
abe orce there s sod ground n ront, or
runs her nose nto a so t sudd bank. In ether
case you have to hod on tght ! Then the orce
o the current comng rom behnd catches the
boat n the stern and round she spns ke a top,
and ust be ore she gets straght agan the
res, or Arab pot, rngs the engne-room be
u-speed ahead. Occasonay, though, he
ms udges hs tme, ettng her pay o T too ar,
and has to stop her at once. Where the
bends are very sharp and sudden the engnes e
55
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/
a
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s
_
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e
#
p
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s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
uet, and the shp goes aong on her downward
ourney, twddng round ke a teetotum, httng
now one bank and now the other, roundng one
corner by a har's breadth, and crushng and
grndng up aganst the reeds when the ne t
comes n the way, t at ast they are abe to
get her head straght agan, and away we go
once more. It's a rght n broad dayght when
we can see what s gong to happen, but t's ute
another matter at norht sttng at dnner, et
us say.
Ne t day we wake up n the sudd country, o
whch tte, any, descrpton s necessary. A
vast sheet o reeds and papyrus, wth an occa-
sona ambatch tree rasng ts goden-crowned
head above the swamp, meets the eye on every
sde, and e tends ar beyond the human power
o vson a waste o marsh and sps, oatng
on the water. They say that none o the Lake
Vctora water ever reaches beow ths t s a
spread out nto the swamps and oses tse by
snkng nto the earth or evaporatng nto the
ar. The sudd roots do not touch the ground,
but are nteraced and ntertwned wth one
another, ormng an mpenetrabe barrer to nav-
gaton and yet t s ute mpossbe to wak
over them.
Nothng ves here e cept cormorants, darters
wth ther ong snake-ke necks, and beaut u
ong-taed bee-eaters, respendent n green and
56
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s
_
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#
p
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s
The Ne
bue above and vvd scaret on the neck and
breast. These ast hover and swoop a day ke
swaows, and reve n a grass re, because t strs
up the nsects or them. As you st n the bows
o the boat n the evenng countess nght- ars
ap past you on noseess wngs n ther hunt or
moths and other nsects o the norht. No
mammas ve here no hppos, as there s no
andng-pace or them and no crocs, as there
are no anteopes or them to eat. A s gven
up to sotude.
Two days n the sudd s enough or most
peope, and wth Lake No to oow ! That s
very tte better, e cept that one does see a
thorn orest now and agan, wth a Dom pam
and a scattered vage or two as one approaches
the Shuk country urther east.
In uck successon on the rght bank come
the mouths o the Bahr-e- era not a rver,
but a bg over ow rom the sudd and the Sobat
rver. Ths atter s remarkabe or ts tre-
mendous oodng a ter the rans nand on the
Abyssnan border, and t, together wth the Bue
Ne and the Atbara, both mes urther north, s
many responsbe or the great storage o water
at the Assuan dam and more especay or
keepng the dam ed. The rans at the respec-
tve sources o these great rvers up-country
come at d erent perods every year, so that each
n turn contrbutes ts share o water.
57
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s
_
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#
p
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
A new post was beng estabshed on the
opposte bank at Tonga Isand whch s n-
tended to be the means o ngress and egress or
Southern Kordo an n the shape o a teegraph
o ce n the Austran Msson House and a ew
storehouses.
Ne t we see under the shadow o a ew Dom
pams the mtary staton o Tau ka, a dust-
heap n the wderness, dry and burnt up n
December. In the rans the budngs stand ust
cear o the swoen rver whrng past n ront,
and o an e tensve swamp behnd. Another
mtary post, some orty mes on, s Kodok
Fashoda, as t used to be caed the admnstra-
tve capta o the Shuk Dstrct and the head-
uarters o the Governor thereo Traces o
Marchand's earthworks st reman wth a strong
north wnd bowng the pace s enveoped n
a dust coud.
Thence the Ne, now some our hundred yards
broad, wnds ts statey way past the Game
Reserve on the eastern bank, past Renk and
ebe Achmed Aga, a sma h rsng out o a
dead at pan, owng on through sandy desert
dunes edged on the rver bank wth dry and
wthered-up thorn-trees, to E Duem, the and-
ng-pace or E Obed, the capta o Kordo an
t about twenty mes above Khartoum the
dreaded shaows begn, and the rver broadens
to a me n paces.
58
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#
p
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The Ne
Then Khartoum s seen n the dstance as a
ne o pam-trees surmounted by whte mnarets.
Here the two Nes meet. Soon Omdurman
comes nto vew, a mud-but straa-or nor town
some eght mes n ength. It s the argest
market on the Ne, and seems ost n the orest
o masts o the natve cra t that brng down the
country's produce rom the erte pans o the
Bue Ne.
The rver ows on, wth a buer tnt n the water
now, past the barracks o the Sudanese soders,
under the crumbng was o ormer Dervsh orts,
past ebe Surgam, the ste o the batte ed that
knocked anatcsm out o tme or a whe.
Graduay the rver grows shaower and more
rocky, t, some s ty mes down, the Shabuka
cataract bars navgaton. Here we eave the
mghty rver or a tme, but t st ows on.
Past Berber and Dongoa, the scenes o many
a boody batte and sangunary encounter wth
the Kha a's hordes, the Ne surges on ts way
between back ronstone crao-s and bows o
geamng yeow sand, now roarng over the
rocky barrers that e tend across the rver bed n
the shape o cataracts, now washng the base o
some bod precptous c , now appng the sand-
strewn edge o some uet bay.
We meet t agan ne t at Ha a, where a st
more paata possbe steamer than we had
met be ore s watng to enabe us to contnue our
59
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#
p
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
ourney on the bosom o the rver. We are ast
nearng the pyons and scuptures o ancent
Egypt, oder ar than the Pharaohs and more
aged than the ken o man. The banks are green
wth corn, and above the thorny acacas wave
the eathery ronds o date pams standng ke
sentnes over the crops. A short dstance ony
rom the water's edge, sand and bod and rugged
rocks st hod ther sway over a creaton.
The creak o the **saka, or Persan water-
whee, turned by the meek-eyed buock, or ever
wanderng round hs stratened crcut, makes
drowsy musc to the ear.
La ness s n the ar. It s catchng rom the
sghts and sounds around. Two or three men,
dressed n cean whte robes, are sttng on a og
passng the tme o day some drty chdren are
dong nothng save rong n the dust a woman,
wth her water-pot baanced on her head, steaded
by her sm brown arms, turns to watch the
steamer pass a donkey stands wth droopng
head, ast aseep n the grate u shade o a tree
the ears o corn are noddng to the ephyrs
the saor at the eads reports the varyng depth
o the water n a monotonous sng-song some
o the crew are do ng n the bows the whoe
andscape s ast aseep, as aso are the huge
Cooss ggantc gures or ever starng at the
dawn that guard the sacred portas o Abu
Smbe's tempe.
60
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s
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#
p
d
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s
'
, 5 ' 3
1 5
5 3
THE SACRED PORTALS OF ABU SIMBEI, S TEMTI.E
I' IIL.., W THE Ab:L'A. DAM . IHE LACKG KuU M
G
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#
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G
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2
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#
p
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The Ne
These statues o a dead and gone Rameses
are some s ty eet n heght, two on each sde o
the entrance to the goomy nteror whose was
are st covered wth the pant and rescoes o
ong-past ages. These statey gures, whch
keep watch and ward over the mysteres wthn,
appear werd and ghosty n the moonght.
Soon the tempe ades rom vew. Then, wth
an occasona accdenta bump on a hdden sand-
bank, we steam onwards past the ong nes o
ma estc date pams. Leavng on our rght hand
an ancent Roman ortress towerng overhead on
a bod bu , we approach the great Assuan Dam,
n whose ake, ormed by the pent-up waters, the
tempe o Phae stands pacdy ga ng at the
ron-bound shore around. It s but upon an
sand, now submerged so that the waters ap ts
pyons and was, coverng the oundatons n
some depth o water. The carvngs stand out n
bod ree , and the captas o the massve
coumns are hghy decorated wth chseng,
evdences o a very ar-advanced cv aton.
The great wa o masonry but to dam up the
waters o the Ne wth a vew to mprove the
rrgaton o Lower Egypt s about a me rom
Phae, and ts poston s marked by the arms o
o ty cranes, used to drop the stones and concrete
nto ther paces n the new outer wa that s
beno constructed to strengthen the oundatons
or a urther barrer, s teen eet hgher, to aow
6
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
o the storage o yet more o the e-gvng
oods o the upper reaches.
The tran conveys us now aong the banks o
the mghty rver the we-ad ras emphas ng
the meetng-pace o cutvaton and desert by
way o Lu or, past the tempes o Kom Ombo
and Karnac, under the rownng c s that shut
n the tombs o the kngs n ther goomy gorge,
to Caro, a more modern cty wth ts geamng
mnarets and mos ues, ts paaces and gardens,
and the ctade towerng over a, set o aganst
a background o the Mokattam hs, whst the
Pyramds act the part o three guardan sent-
nes, shedng the cosmopotan popuace rom
n ury.
The Pyramds o Gh eh stand on a pan, whch
a ter the nundaton s brght wth vegetaton, and
dotted a over wth vages embosomed n
o
thckets o date pams, tamarsks, acacas, and
sycamores, than whch nothng coud we be
more pctures ue at the dstance o a me or
two. The Pyramds have been so o ten descrbed
that t s needess to repeat the o t-reterated words
used to e press the wonder and astonshment o
every vstor to these odest and grandest o
human monuments, hoary wth the age o
s ty centures. The crowds o Arabs, who
nhabt the rookery near by, camour n broken
Engsh or money and the honour o escortng
the e end up the vast starcase whch eads to the
02
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#
p
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, .
3' 1 5
'
' ,',' ,', ' ' '.
,3
3 1 '
- , 3-3
3 ' 3 3 3 3
' 3 - 3 -3
3 3 3 3 3
LA INESS IS IN THE AIR
G
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#
p
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t C C
G
e
n
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d

o
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2
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_
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e
#
p
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-
u
s
The Ne
summt unkempt and uncothed chdren shrek
or backsheesh as the carrage rattes across
the ne brdge whch spans the Ne at Kasr-e-
N, amost at the base o these ancent monu-
ments and n a coupe o hours or ess the
vstor returns to a cty o operas, theatres,
concerts, hotes, and ca es. Thus the contrast
between the past and present s even greater than
t otherwse woud be.
et the Pyramds o Cheops orm ony one
group o many smar structures stretchng aong
the western bank o the rver, werd vestges o
a past that was aready remote be ore hstory
began.
In a hoow a ew hundred yards to the south-
east o the great Pyramd crouches, as t has
crouched or thousands o years, contnuay gettng
bured deeper and deeper n the drvng sand, the
great stone gure known as the Sphn , whch,
ke the ant ue tempe recenty dsnterred n ts
vcnty, was od be ore the dea o budng hs
stupendous mausoeum entered the bran o
Cheops. The mysterous Sphn , carved rom
the sod rock, st smes engmatcay a man's
head surmountng a on's body, symboca o the
power and gory o the then ruer over the and.
The Ne has now neary nshed ts ong
ourney, a wonder u voyage rom the tropcs to
a more temperate one, through barbarc regons.
It has now but to wander through the great
63
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2
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_
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e
#
p
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u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
deta e tendng rom Ae andra to Rosetta,
rrgatng the country ar and wde wth ts er-
t ng mud-bearng waters be ore osng tse n
the sea.
There s tte, t s true, o a spectacuar char-
acter wherewth to enven these ast hundred
and ty mes, uness t be that the traveer starts
rom ths end rst, when a the e ctement o a
strange country, and the great unknown yng
beyond, res hs magnaton as he ga es at the
varyng andscapes umned by the rays o the
settng sun, dyeng and and water n a bood-red
gow, oowed by ranbow coours o an Eastern
twght n ts ast desparng e ort, t darkness
as on everythng.
64
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e
#
p
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s
3 3 5
' ' 3
3 3, ,3 , ', 3' '
3 3
', 'r*, '' '3'A
THE I' KAMIDS
TH. III1
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#
p
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o c c c
G
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2
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IV
MR. CHURCHILL'S OURNE
THROUGH UGANDA TO
KHARTOUM
A
And o'er the hs, and ar away
Beyond ther utmost purpe rm,
Beyond the nght, across the day . . . Tennyson.
N account o my rst trek through
Uganda as o cer n charge o Mr.
Church's escort and party generay,
may not be devod o nterest.
Mr. Church had come out n hs o ca
poston as Under-Secretary o State or the
Coones to spy out the and, and obtan a rst-
hand knowedge o ts nhabtants, ts customs,
ts resources, and ts possbtes. He had
traveed through East A rca, and done an
enormous amount o work nspectng cotton and
corn ndustres, sheep and catte arms, poce
and cv estabshments, as we as vstng out-
yng and newy ormed statons n dstrcts that
are n ther n ancy as regards deveopment. He
had worked hard n recevng deputatons o
coonsts, and n hepng to sette varous ponts
that were brought to hs notce, but had never-
theess ound tme or sandwchng n a certan
amount o sport and shootng. He and hs
F 65
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
party had been very ortunate n securng severa
o the many speces o East A rcan bg game
be ore arrvng n Uganda.
A ter a short perod o urther o ca duty at
our capta Entebbe he proposed to contnue
hs ourney to Engand, home, and beauty, va
the Ne, more as a hoday than anythng ese,
as a much-needed rest rom a ars o State a ter
hs abours both at home and abroad.
Athough I had prevousy seen hm at Narob,
n East A rca, wth a vew to settng the route,
n urng nto ways and means, and arrangng
the hundred-and-one detas o ths un ue
chance or an dea trp through a beaut u trop-
ca country, we dd not meet o cay t hs
dsembarkaton at Entebbe n November.
A ter a ew days spent n sghtseeng there
and n Kampaa, our party embarked on the
s.s. Wam Aacknnon, rom Kampaa's port,
Munyonyo, or n a on Lake Vctora, whch s
the town perched over the Rpon Fas, the brth
o the Ne. We arrved n a voent storm o
ran and wnd, ate n the evenng, but ucky
ound our camp had been ptched we be ore the
ran had begun, so that a the varous oads and
bo es o stores were we under cover and pro-
tected rom the wet.
A ter a arewe dnner rom the Governor that
nght, we set orth on our rst march eary n the
resh cooness o the ne t mornng.
66
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#
p
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3 3
3 3
3 3 3 3 3
'333 33

W u

-

o
o
a!
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#
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G
e
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a
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o
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2
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#
p
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s
Mr. Church's ourney
Our party conssted o the Rt, Hon. Wnston
S. Church, m.p., p.c, Under-Secretary o State
or the Coones Lt.-Co. Gordon Wson, m.v.o.,
the Roya Horse Guards Bue Mr. E. Marsh
prvate secretary Mr. A. G. Boye, Sub-Com-
mssoner o the Provnce o Usoga Mr. S.
Ormsby, transport o cer Capt. Stevenson, r.e.,
n charge o the Uganda Raway E tenson
Survey Lt. Fshbourne, r.e., hs subatern Dr.
Gode myse Lt. R. B. Kno , 4th Battaon
Kng's A rcan R es, my subatern and Mr.
Scrvngs, vaet to Mr. Church.
A very happy crew we were, determned to
en oy ourseves, and make the best o any d -
cutes that mght chance to cross our path, and
the most o what shootng the country that ay
n ront o us mght a ord. November, be t
sad, s not the best tme o the year or sport.
It s not ute ate enough n the season as the
grass s too green, and teegraphc advces had
n ormed us that n the more sportng dstrcts
the natves had not begun to burn the ong grass,
as s ther yeary custom. The conse uence was
that we saw but tte game, compared wth the
numbers I came across on my return ourney n
February. But that dd not deter one gaant
sportsman rom tryng hs utmost, puttng
hmse to any and every nconvenence
Co. Wson worked rom eary morn t dewy
eve n hs ardour or the chase, and met wth
67
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
great success as a due reward or hs severe
abours.
A ter a tweve-me march aong a red-brown
road, up h and down dae through everastng
eephant grass, anythng up to twenty eet hgh,
swaowed up at ntervas by ggantc orest trees
covered wth creepers and owers nnumerabe,
and swarmng wth brd and nsect e, we came
to a hat at our rst camp a tny cearng on
the sde o the road, surrounded by a neat ence
o grass work. In ths cearng huts, both arge
and sma, had sprung up as by magc durng
the ast day or two, erected by the oca che
who hed sway over that porton o the road.
There was a bg hut, to be used as a sttng-
and dnng-room, about twenty eet hgh by orty
eet ong, constructed o acaca poes sunk n the
ground and ra ters o the same matera bound to
them wth strps o bark the whoe thatched and
waed n wth arm us o ong grass, care beng
taken to eave broad ampe wndows a round or
the ree passage o ar. A house o ths knd s
ute mpervous to a tropca ran storm, provded
the roo be made wth a very sharp sope. A
the houses were o ths pattern, though o course
the rest, beng ony bedrooms, were tte arger
than an ordnary tent. There was aso a guard-
room as we as a ktchen. A our camps were
o ths descrpton. I n any o them there
were not enough houses to accommodate such a
68
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#
p
d
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u
s
Mr. Church's ourney
arge party, tents were ptched n a twnkng
wth the ad o the orty soders comprsng my
escort. There were aso some 400 porters
empoyed n carryng the varous oads each
o these atter was as compact as possbe, and
weghed not more than 60 bs. The porters
housed themseves accordng- to custom. A ter
a the oads not re ured by the cook that nght
had been ped under the watch u eye o the
sentry outsde the guard-room, the head men tod
o certan porters to etch rewood rom the
surroundng unge, others to go and draw water
rom the rver, and a ew to hep generay n
varous ways, whst the remander were dsmssed
to bud sheters or themseves and ther pas on
duty. It dd not take ong to run up these
sheters. A ew growng bushes were hoowed
out, the remanng branches ted together at ther
tps wth strps o bark to orm a oundaton or
bundes o grass to be thrown anyhow on top
thus the unge n the precncts o the camp was
converted nto the keness o a coony o beehves.
Then n the evenng about our p.m. came
posho tme. The natves had been warned
be orehand to brng n so many oads o ood to
each camp on such and such a date successvey,
on payment and great e ctement nvaraby
ensued at the tme when the posho or ood
was served up. One natve woud wrange wth
another because the atter had ha a sweet potato
69
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2
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G
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1
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9
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7
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5
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P
u
b

c

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o
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a

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t
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e

U
n

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/


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.
h
a
t
h

t
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u
s
t
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o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
more than the ormer Musa woud ht Hams
over the head as the atter had been gven a
bananas, whst the ormer had ony potatoes
the uarre woud possby termnate n uma
swoopng down and baggng the ot ! The rst
day or two's trekkng usuay resuts n a scrm-
mage or two, as these men have been drawn rom
the whoe dstrct, and very key have never
seen one another be ore, much ess become
ac uanted but as soon as they get shaken
down and make rends wth one another, and,
above a, nd that the whte man sn't tryng to
stea or make hs bt out o ther ood, they carry
ther heavy oads aong, day n day out, ute
cheer uy, havng ther abours rewarded wth
meat when master has been ucky enough to
shoot an anteope or whatever t may be.
At ve o'cock I usuay see a the men who
report themseves sck. These men are paraded
and come up n charge o ther d erent head
men and whst the cases o ever are ew, a
goody number w be ound to be su erng rom
coughs, and more st rom pans n the tte
Mary rom over-eatng. To be a success u
doctor amongst these peope t s necessary to
gve them medcne that ether tastes very nasty
or has a severe e ect. It's not a bt o good
servng out to them tabods, whch do nether.
To do ths s to make them ose a ath at once,
and those who are reay w very key stay
70
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2
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2
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6

G
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t
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t
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o
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g
/
a
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e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Mr. Church's ourney
behnd to de n any waysde vage. However,
Dr. Gode was wth us on ths occason, and I
was saved ths day abour.
At and a ter dnner, okes and merry ests,
ntereaved wth dscussons on topca sub ects
and the nterestng remnscences o our cever
eader, made the evenng y t bedtme came,
and one by one we dropped nto that whoesome
seep begotten by heathy e ercse.
The bra en notes o that n erna buge woud
wake us ne t mornng to dress and pack up n
the dark, and put away a hasty break ast by cande
or antern ght be ore startng on the day's march.
Such was the day round o e to whch we
became graduay accustomed, growng tter and
harder by degrees as we marched urther and
urther on our ourney.
We were a as merry as grgs and as happy as
the day was ong, athough some o us had our
noses pontng towards home, whst others had
ust reappeared rom eave on a new ease o e
n these tropca wds. However, n spte o
stores and anecdotes, I don't ancy many o the
atter were red wth a great ongng to return to
the gaetes o London and the peasures thereo .
As some one has t :
Oh ! the taes that you coud te,
Pccady,
Ft or heaven, t or he
Pccady,
71
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P
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c

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t
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U
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.
h
a
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t
r
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s
t
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o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
O the ok who buy and se,
O the merry marrage be,
O the brthday, o the kne,
O the paace, o the ce,
O the bedame and the bee,
O the rest o them who e,
Pccady.
I thnk that descrbes t to a tck !
On our rst day's march we saw no game. As
a matter o act, I was not atogether sorry, as
thngs had to be got shp-shape, and there were
countess detas to be setted and heaps o work
to be got through as s aways the case at the
commencement o any ong trek. We had or-
gotten a ew thngs nto the bargan, and e tra
candes and soap had to be sent or.
A messenger produced by the oca che was
entrusted wth the necessary etter, and ran o to
n a ke a ampghter, traveng to such good
purpose that the mssng stores arrved n the
nght n ampe tme be ore the ne t eary start.
The orderng o the stores, ood, crockery, etc.,
was no sma matter, as tte coud be obtaned
on the way even at the e orbtant prces whch
Indan traders charo e at the more dstant out-
statons and as we were voyagng a ong dstance
on the Ne, durng whch there woud not be
su cent room n the boats to take any o the
porters, the ood, etc., had had to be dvded nto
haves one or present use, and the other or
the ast part o the ourney to be sent on be ore
72
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2
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t
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t
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o
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/
a
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c
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Mr. Church's ourney
wth a d erent reay o porters to meet us at
Nmue.
The Ne was hdden rom our vew here by
the dense masses o oage and orest trees
separatng the road rom the rver. But the
boomng o ts restess waters served as a uaby
at nght.
The road contnued ts swtchback course
through the orest ne t mornng t we got on to
rather hgher ground, when t emerged to a
regon o thorn trees and shortsh grass, whst
the path tse and genera con ormaton o the
country became much atter. Another two hours
or so brought us to the res -on o habtatons.
At ength, owng to our ascent to drer ground,
the narrow path wdened out nto a we-kept
broad road bounded by trees and shambas or
gardens. The urther we proceeded the more
beaut u and hghy cutvated grew the and.
On ether sde were u urant eds o sweet
potatoes, o ucy green tobacco, o yeow-
owerng ground nuts, o ma e and met,
o cotton and castor-o pants a dvded rom
one another by ceany-kept paths, each hedged
wth ch bushes respendent n ther brght
scaret seed pods, or rows o mahogo, whst
n the background there were groves o bananas
and g trees o d erent speces, a ew custers
o euphorbas to urnsh the grotes ue, and
thckets o cmbng pants.
12
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t
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t
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o
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/
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s
_
u
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e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
Many arge huts ay scattered n the eds,
and ther nhabtants stood n groups upon the
way cothed or the most part n whte. * ' Otano !
was the greetng we receved n passng, and,
accompaned by hundreds o spectators, we
arrved at a arge open space prepared or our
recepton. Bunches o rpe goden bananas
appeared on the scene as a sgn o wecome,
baskets o arge red sweet potatoes, enormous
gourds u o natve beer, sma natve ows,
two or three sheep, and, ast but not east, a
number o eggs n a pretty tte basket. Two
o the donors had, as ther somewhat thck
speech ndcated, done a honour to the banana
wne, and they were n conse uence sghty
eevated st they managed to show themseves
more or ess at ther ease.
The banana pantatons are generay very
we kept, but once a year the grass n them
s aowed to shoot, and a ter a whe s pued up
and paced n great heaps around each banana
pant, ths beng the ony manure empoyed.
When rottng s at an end, whch very soon
comes to pass, the grove ooks ke a huge and
very care uy kept garden. Ths and the breakng
o o the suckers, whch grow ready, when
panted, to orm a new shamba s the ony tendng
the banana re ures to make t grow vgorousy
and produce the nce bg yeow bunches o rut
danrrne rom under the onc orreen ronds.
74
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t
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o
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s
s
_
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s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
3 3
y 3 , 5 .
-
N c.

as
D
M
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a
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s
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#
p
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., t r ,
G
e
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o
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2
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h
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t
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t
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o
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g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Mr. Church's ourney
There are sedom any trees n banana panta-
tons e cept bark-coth trees, a knd o g. As
soon as the bark rom whch the coth s made
s strpped o , they are wrapped round wth a
sheath o banana eaves, n order to preserve them
rom nsects and to promote the process o re-
growth n the bark. The bark may be empoyed
or the manu acture o coth unt the tree s our
or ve years od, but as a rue the same tree s
not strpped more than two or three tmes. The
rst tme t produces a thck coarse coth, but the
second tme a much ner uaty.
Whte- owerng, rose-tnted tobacco whch at-
tans a heght o about three eet, and cucumber-
ke pants producng gourds or the makng o
varous knds o vesses, spoons, etc., are unver-
say grown near the houses.
Banana pantatons, wth groups o huts, green
eds, bue mountans, shady vages, and a sm-
ng heaven, composed an enchantng pcture, and
merry we contnued our way over rm red cay
roads rght through the banana groves.
A brant moonght nght oowed an e uay
beaut u day. It s a un ue peasure to st n
the deep darkness o a banana grove and watch
. the pay o the ever-changng shadows, whch the
bush moonorht throws throuorh the thck oatre
upon the dark red ground. An amost ghosty
sence regns over a ony at tmes the mghty
eaves ruste so ty as they dreamed. The
75
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t
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t
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o
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/
a
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
spectra orms o arge bats t through the
ar the pennant-wnged nght- ar es senty
wth ts ong eathers utterng behnd bush
ghts mark the tra o arge gowworms, and
bu ng moths n sombre garb are amost nvsbe
to the eye n the darkness o the nght. A deep
sweet breath o peace s wa ted over the ace o
nature.
On approachng a bgger vage than usua, t
s no uncommon thng or a gude to report a
thorn n hs oot, ntmatng that t s practcay
mpossbe or hm to march any great dstance
on the morrow. Fu we I know that ths s
ony an e cuse n order to obtan an opportunty
or the porters to nduge n a good drnkng bout
o tembo, or oca beer avoured wth bananas.
What can I do
Forty mes or so rom Lake Vctora brought
us to Kakndu, where navgaton on the Ne
begns. Ths s rather an mportant tte pace
n ts way as rom here broad roads branch o
n a drectons n Usoga, so the oca steamer
servce has penty o hard work to per orm n
the transportng o reght che y produce to
and ro.
A tny steam aunch, the Vctora, a stee
boat, the Settma, and severa enormous dug-
out canoes, each ashoned wth chse and re
rom the snge trunk o a orest gant, comprsed
the ota. We packed ourseves ke so many
76
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/
a
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s
_
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e
#
p
d
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u
s
Mr. Church's ourney
sardnes, nsde and outsde each and a o the
boats. It was, to say the east aganst t, uncom-
ortabe but though many o us were compara-
tve strangers to one another, we soon ound out
each other's kes and dskes, and our con ned
uarters were naturay conducve to camaradere
and bonhotne. One soon shook down and
took one's turn n watng and washng up. Ths
ast was reduced to a hgh art, as a pate or gass
had ony to be hed out o the wndow at one's
back and dpped n the rver wthout the sghtest
e erton to emerge rom the water spotess, whst
a wpe wth the towe dd the rest, and one was
ready or the ne t course on the menu.
We ted up to the bank every day about
our o'cock to enabe us to dne and seep ashore.
Ths gave the cook a chance to prepare a good
dnner and repensh hs store o resh .'* eggs
and chckens, and to cook ood that woud be
served up cod ne t day or break ast and unch.
Kakndu was the temporary head- uarters o a
secton o the Uganda Raway Survey, and here
we met the escort o the Kng's A rcan R es
tod o to assst them. Leutenant Cother and
Leutenant Harres were n charge, the atter none
too t rom the resuts o ever contracted durng
hs stay n the ow-yng country around. Lvng
n the vcnty o stagnant marshes or the greater
part o three months s not conducve to the best
o heath, and a man needs to be as strong as a
n
G
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U
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h
a
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/
a
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
buock, as he was, to stand t or ong, no matter
how energetc or how much e ercse he takes.
Here we dropped Mr. Boye, who had been
very seedy Mr. Kno and my escort remaned
here as we, as there was no pace or them n
the aready overcrowded boats. They woud
have a nce tte trek back through tte-known
country to head - uarters, mappng as they
went.
The rst part o the ourney on the water was
down the rver, now owng between hgh papy-
rus was, now runnng out nto a broad agoon
overspread wth water es and other a uatc
pants we passed muttudes o duck, and an
occasona pecan paddng seepy about on the
ook out or hs mea o sh. A ter some two or
three hours we e t Peg h on our rght and
reached Lake Koga, the entrance to whch s
bocked wth masses o weeds and oatng bocks
o papyrus and reeds, detached by the orce o the
wnd and current. These had accumuated to such
an e tent as to become a vertabe nusance. We
had to stop the aunch every two hours or so n
order to dsentange the bunches o weeds rom
the propeer ths woud revove more and more
sowy, unt, wth the ad o a boat-hook and the
reversa o the engnes, a arge ump o weeds
woud be detached and e t behnd oatng astern,
o ten causng great nconvenence by gettng
tse ted up wth the tow rope, and e tractng
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Mr. Church's ourney-
raucous sounds rom the engneer, to say nothng
o hghy cooured e petves.
And so we proceeded on our voyage, not by any
means n a bee ne, as, n addton to the oatng
barrers be ore descrbed, shaows had to be
avoded where they were known to e st.
For three days we contnued our watery ourney,
startng about s n the mornng, steamng hard
a day, and reachng a camp n the ate a ternoon.
Everywhere we ound houses but ready or us,
and every convenence n the shape o ood awat-
ng our arrva. Ths meant that the ueston o
suppes was reduced to an absurdty and saved
us the eterna ussng on reachng each camp,
wthout whch t seems mpossbe to get n the
ood oads be ore dark. Conse uenty we had
more tme to dve nto the unge and pck up a
stray gunea- ow or even a number o pgeons to
vary the day are o hard, tough mutton. In
these tropca countres a sheep that s ked n
the mornng has to be nshed at nght a, or t
w be un t or human consumpton on the
morrow so that the term mutton serves to
dss use the sabs o a boot-eather-ke consst-
ency that one s orced to swaow at the even-
ng mea.
N earng Mru we eave the swampy akes and
the papyrus ramparts cose n agan. ust be ore
reachng the andng-pace one passes the mouth
o the Ka u rver, overgrown so densey that one
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
woud not recogn e t uness t were ponted
out.
Ha -way up a stagnant backwater the aunch was
cast o , and the boats wth ther precous burdens
were poed and pushed by savages wadng wast
deep n mud and sush to the ow causeway whch
s euphonousy termed a per. Mr. Anderson,
who was n charge o ths dstrct part o Unyoro
met us here, and there was a guard o honour
o the Kng's A rcan R es awatng us, drawn
up cose by under the command o Lt. Thompson,
who woud accompany us t we embarked on
the Ne agan.
On the opposte sde o the rver to Mru ve
a very arge trbe o natves, caed Buked.
These are a dvded nto d erent sectons or sub-
trbes, some o whom are rendy, but the other
more dstant ones, never havng been brought nto
contact wth the whte man, are un rendy. Dora,
the che o one o the ad acent rendy dvsons,
was there to greet us, wth some eght hundred
o hs wd trbesmen uy adorned wth pant and
eopard skns. They ormed themseves up nto
a ha -moon, dancng and sngng aternatey n
honour o the great whte che who had come a
the way across the seas to meet them, and them
aone. The savage knows tte or nothng o
what goes on, or o other nhabtants, outsde hs
own trba boundares, so that any vstor he may
happen to meet has aways arrved smpy and
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, ', 1 5
LANDING FOR THE NIGHT
CHIEF nORA S FRIENDL SECTION OF I HE BUKEDI
see page y
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Mr. Church's ourney
soey to make hs partcuar ac uantance. A
ew words, there ore, rom Mr. Church put them
nto the wdest sprts, and a present o two or
three buocks kept them busy eatng the greater
part o the nght.
Hence our mmedate pont was Masnd, some
two days' march ahead. We trekked through a
at, dry, monotonous country, the road beng
weeded and cean as a new pn, and bordered on
ether sde wth wthered grass and stunted trees.
Ths s a very avourte eephant ground, but,
un ortunatey, the eephants had sought greener
eds and pastures new durng our short so ourn
there.
We usuay waked on our at eet, though
there was a mue and a carryng-char or tred
or sck peope. Mr. Church rode a bke the
road, barrng an n re uent h, aowng o ths
a the way to Gondokoro and, on reachng the
head o the coumn, woud dsmount and march
the remander o the day's ourney wth the
doctor and myse . Ths contrbuted not a tte
to our en oyment o the day round the march
seemed shorter, and the mnutes teray ew as
we stened to varous stores and yarns, and ds-
cussed uestons o ma or or mnor mportance.
These dscussons were, as o ten as not, contnued
o an evenng over the sunset drnk n camp
be ore dnner. I we remember the sub ect o
Socasm cropped up. Mr. Church gave us hs
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
party's vew o t then, beng re uested to te
us about Unonst deas o t, we had a second
speech whe a tmorous re uest or hs own
prvate concepton brought orth the most n-
terestng, possbe, dssertaton o the ot.
In ths engagng manner the march was got
through wthout any seemng e erton, and one
reached camp a too soon at tmes, beng
thoroughy t to go o shootng a ter tents had
been ptched and uncheon nshed. There was
nothng to shoot here, however, as the ever-
astng grass was st unburnt, and, beyond bag-
gng a ew gunea- ow and partrdge, our e er-
tons n that ne went or nothng.
At ast Masnd hove n sght. We had been
steady marchng at a bg h a that and the
prevous day, so that uttng the sun-dred unge
or the u urant verdure o cutvaton was a
great ree , and t was good to nd onese n the
broad, roomy verandah o the Coector's house,
wth ts onCT chars and ts tabes bearno coo
me s uashes. We ptched our camp n an od
dsused garden near by, anywhere amongst the
me bushes and amond trees, under the shadow
o a ta avenue o rustng, sweet-smeng bue
gums. Mr. Anderson had made ampe prepara-
ton or our entertanment, and here we pcked
up our rst bag o home mas snce pungng nto
these uncv ed wds.
From Masnd we decded to march due north
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Mr. Church's ourney
to Fa ao, our ormer route havng been changed
n order that Mr. Church mght obtan a vew
o the Murchson Fas. The natves had not, n
conse uence o ths sudden ateraton, had su -
cent tme to cear the roadway propery, so, on
our arrva n the ne t two camps, the routne was
vared by our havng to assst to bud our house.
It was rather un beng one's own archtect, and
then seeng how one's e orts turned out a ter-
wards. Ths march took us through wd and
sparsey popuated country. The unge was
thcker and stoner, and was gven up to the arge
herds o eephant who roam at w n the ee-
phant grass or the thck orest. These anmas
are amed or ther tusks n ths part o the word,
and everybody comes here to shoot them. Ths
has made them e ceptonay savage, because n
ths e ceedngy thck country a certan per-
centage o those shot at get o wounded and
become a terror to man and beast t they are
ked by some more ortunate hunter. They have
got a very bad name ndeed or chargng on sght
or sme, and are reay very dangerous.
Not havng been propery ceared, the road
was rendered amost mpassabe n paces by
the u urous and entanoed orowth o erass.
Masses o reeds o mposng heght and great
breadth o ten ntruded themseves between the
grasses, and added not a tte to the d cu-
tes o the way. Where there s an accumua-
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
ton o water n the hoows o the crround veee-
taton deveops n overwhemng abundance one
s o ten compeed to use consderabe strength
n orcng one's way through and t s hot to
su ocaton n these thckets, n whch the odour o
decayng pants bends wth the strong per ume
o the owers.
Strange to say, a anma e appears to de out
o these grass orests durng the heat o the day
one rarey hears the twtterng o the brds or the
dstant trumpetng o the eephant, so that one's
heart es nto one's mouth at the occasona rush
and smash n the grass on ether hand betoken-
ng the passage o the heavy body o some wd
anma eeng rghtened rom one's ootsteps
even the traveer s sent, and presses orward
eager to reach some open space.
At nght t s otherwse. No sooner does
the moon ood ts sver ght upon the grass
wavng n the nght bree e, no sooner do antastc
shadows cose around the traveer, than the and
s ed wth ghosty e. There s a rustng
and a surgng the spe s broken the anma
word awakes.
The 30th o November, the second nght out
rom Masnd, saw us encamped under the
shouder o Gs H, the hghest h n the
countrysde, and we made merry. Was t not
the annversary o Mr. Church's brthday and
had not the cook speca orders to surpass hmse
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O 3 5-' 3 5 3
3 , 3 3 3 3
3 3 3 3 3 3 3
3 3 3
3 3 3 3 3 3
3 53% 3 33
3 , 3 , 3 3 3,3
'3 3 '3 3'3
THE NILE A- FA AO
' L-V
CAMP IN THE LIME-GROVE AT MASINDI
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Mr. Church's ourney
n hs e orts on ths noht o a others It was
great un rummagng round n a the chop
bo es to try and unearth somethng e tra speca
n honour o the occason. Everythng went
we, and the cook e ceed hmse n not gettng
as tght as usua !
Ne t mornng we had a ovey vew rom the
top o Gs, over msty h and dae and gade
and orest, wth the rsng sun at our backs
graduay dspeng the couds o thck mst, t
at ength Lake Abert burst upon our eyes
a ong streak o bue some thrty mes away
ust anty dstngushabe.
The road rom here on was dread uy steep.
We descended a seres o sma escarpments t
we reached the rough eve beow, but even then
we had to cmb upwards and downwards through-
out ths march. The path tse , moreover, was
very stony under oot, so the un ortunate porters
had a poorsh tme, arrvng ater than usua,
havng stragged out somewhat.
Then we reached the very edge o the ast
escarpment that dropped down to the Ne tse ,
and, rom a heght o some eght hundred eet
above the rver, a broad panorama ay stretched
be ore us. In the oreground the bue rver
spread out ke a rbbon at our eet, ecked wth
whte oam rom the Fas, whose roar arose rom
the rght owng sw ty onward through ts
settng o green orest ntermnged wth park
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
and. Beyond ay the ha y bue woods and
pans o the Acho country to the north, whst
now at noontme the dmy seen Congo Moun-
tans reared ther burred rdoes aganst a
tur uose sky to the west.
Here a most paata hut had been prepared or
us under the drecton o the che , ames Kago
beng a Chrstan, as many Waganda are, he
was gven the name o ames. The unny od
thng had spared hmse no troube to make us
com ortabe, even gong so ar as to decorate the
nteror wth eathery papyrus and arge bunches
o owers. That a ternoon the whoe party went
o to see the Murchson Fas rom above. Ths
entas an hour and a ha 's wak, but un ortu-
natey I had ever and so was unabe to go and
see them on ths occason. Here we e t Leut.
Thompson and escort number two behnd as we
setted ourseves or another rver voyage. The
eet ths tme conssted o another steam-aunch,
the Kena, sghty bgger than the Vctora,
and three stee boats, whch were towed, one
behnd the other, as we dropped down the Ne
to Nmue. The argest boat, the ames Mart n,
took most o the heavy baggage, and then there
was the Ksngr and the Good Intent n the
ast Mr. Church and Mr. Marsh sept, towed
rght behnd the ot, thus escapng the nose and
sme o the engnes n the aunch. Moreover,
as we were generay steamng a nght, ths
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Mr. Church's ourney
arrangement prevented ther beng dsturbed
when we were awakened to take our turn at
mndno- the eno-nes whe the engneer took
a spe o much-needed repose.
We boarded the ota n the peary ght o
an A rcan mornng, and had a sght contretemps
wth one o the boats whch woud keep on
gettng stuck n the mud n ths backwater or
andng-pace.
On eavng Fa ao erry, rom md-stream one
gets a most deght u vew o the Murchson
Fas ha a me or so away up the rver, and
ther thunderous roar comes echong down the
gorge. A coupe o hppos had been shot the
evenng be ore, so a sharp ook out was kept or
ther huge back carcases n case they had got
stranded n the reeds rnornor the rver on the
way down to Bugungu, at the entrance to Lake
Abert, where we ntended to and or uncheon.
These same boats do a the carryng trade or
the Begans at the other sde o the ake between
Mahag and Butaba and rom the atter pace
they py to and ro twce a month to Nmue,
conveyng oads and stores or the Government.
In the evenng, settng our course due north,
we arrved at Koba a ter steamng some our
hours down the Whte Ne. Ths s the rst
staton on the Ne, and s but about a me and
a ha rom the rver bank on the hghest ground
to be ound here. Mr. Manara was awatng us
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
at the andng-pace. We arrved about 7 p.m.,
and, a ter dsembarkng, en oyed an a resco
dnner by the ght o the moon. Drecty a ter-
wards we got on board agan. We were makng
or a spot n whch to spend a coupe o days n
shootng, and so we coudn't a ord to waste a
moment more than was need u.
Wth ue repenshed, an a-nght ourney saw
us at Wadea eary ne t mornng. Ths used to
be an mportant cv and mtary staton, t
ever and conse uent great oss o e caused the
authortes to evacuate t. But at rst cose to
the rver, and ater at a good dstance back, ts
bad character never mproved, t now t s ony
used as a sma ntermedate teegraph staton.
Even that w be gven up soon.
Some ve mes on we passed od Began
Wadea, a most mportant Ne post n Emn's
day. On, on, past ggantc orest trees, through
papyrus and reeds, between down- and swamp-
and, gratng over the shaow mud-banks, and
havng an occasona shot at a crocode, we pur-
sued our way n the sweterng heat, t at about
3 p.m. we ted up n a tte backwater and saed
orth to shoot.
We dvded ourseves nto three partes. Mr.
Church, Mr. Marsh, Leut. Fshbourne, and
Mr. Bennett, the aunch's engneer, ormed one
Co. Wson and Mr. Ormsby another whst
the doctor and I went out together. We a
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'
3 ' 3 3
3
3 3 3
3 33333 3333 3
, -, 33 ,, 53
' ' ' ' 3 ' ' ' '
,3 '3 33'3
KEAT. SIFF WALKING
OUR SHOOTING CAMP ON THE NILE
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Mr. ChurchPs ourney
went n d erent drectons, and arranged to turn
to the rght when the tme came to make or
home, to avod tumbng nto one another.
The doctor and I had waked or ess than ha
an hour when we came across a snge tusker trek-
kng across our ront on hs way presumaby to
water. Hs tusks were not argre enough to
warrant the shootng o hm, at east so I thought.
We there ore et hm o , and contented our-
seves wth a waterbuck or the men.
Coone Wson came n wth the news that he
had encountered a bu eephant, whch had
prompty charged and been knocked down, and,
on reganng hs eet agan, had been oored a
second tme. But, athough bady wounded, he
had managed to make good hs escape, and on
the morrow the gaant coone ntended to oow
up hs tracks and secure hm. The thrd party
then arrved and reated how they had seen a
do en eephant n the dstance, and, on approach-
ng to spy upon them, had stumbed upon a
rhnoceros n the thck grass, and, as t was gettng
ate and nether speces had perceved them, but
appeared to be eedng uety and contentedy,
they had decded to return to camp and eave
them t ne t day.
Ths was great news. E ctement regned
supreme n camp that nght. Each party had
seen eephant, so that the countrysde seemed
to be stu ed wth them, whst Mr. Church had
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
come across a rhnoceros whch t was strongy-
beeved woud turn out to be the rare Burche's
or whte varety. Pans were made or ne t day
t was determned to proong our stay urther
than was orgnay ntended everybody was
takng anmatedy at the same tme n act, t
was very d cut to get to bed, there seemed to
be such a ot to say !
Ne t mornng the same partes saed orth n
the same drecton as yesterday, so that each
coud have a try or what he had seen the day
be ore. We had not marched ar be ore we
tumbed wthout any warnng nto a bg herd
o eephant, some s ty or seventy, che y cows
and caves, however, and, try how we woud n
the thck grass, we coud not dstngush any
bus. It was ute on the cards that they were
eedng away rom the herd, and the cmbng o
some huge trees dd not throw any urther ght
on the mportant ueston whether there were
any shootabe bus or not. However, we hung
on, on the outskrts o the herd, t a crashng on
three sdes o us gave us warnng that we were
beng surrounded, when we thought t tme to
shn out. A ter another hour's work we had
seen nothng bgger than a sma bu, and so
decded to eave them and try our uck urther
a ed. We waked and waked and dd no good,
so got back to camp n good tme to go out agan
a ter unch.
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Mr. Church's ourney
Coone Wson arrved soon a ter wth the
news that he had shot a sma bu. We were a
most aw uy peased, as he thoroughy deserved
every bt o uck, snce he persevered day a ter
day wth untrng energy to make a coecton
o good trophes durng hs stay n A rca.
A tte ater Mr. Church turned up wth hs
party. They had not come across any eephant,
but had succeeded n baggng a ne specmen o
a much more mportant anma, the whte rhno-
ceros. It was eared that ths enormous beast
had become amost e tnct n the south, numbers
havng been ked there years ago, so the act
o ther vng n ths neghbourhood was a most
mportant pont to be abe to cear up. Mr.
Church had gone out n the same drecton
as yesterday, and, on reachng a sma rse n the
ground, had come across two or three o these
huge anmas pa, ma, and baby, perhaps
wanderng about uety eedng. Takng every-
thng nto consderaton, t was a great day
not ony were eephant and rhno bagged,
but a the vstors had ther ar share o sport,
and the hghest o hgh -cass sport nto the
bargan ! There was great re ocng n camp n
conse uence, and I won't take any oath that a
botte or two o wne wasn't bu ed, ucky
oowed by some o the very nest od B.C.
brandy !
Ne t day we a dsappeared n d erent drec-
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
tons once more, on sport and shootng bent.
The doctor and I saed up the rver or two
mes or so, andng near the scene o Mr. Church-
's encounter wth the whte rhno, to brng n
the heads, and to try to gan some sma advance-
ment wth these ponderous brutes n our turn.
On nearng the spot where the anmas were
shot the day be ore, my gun-bearer tapped me on
the arm, and there, sure enough, were three o
them, whte rhnos, not a doubt o t, wanderng
about per ecty unconcerned and happy. A short
stak took me near enough, some thrty- ve yards,
and I thought I had hm pumb n the neck, but
t must have been hs cheek-bone, I suppose, as
he was skewways on, because a ter wat ng round
ke a mad thng he ed, pursued by hs aarmed
companons. We oowed as sharp as the thorny
scrub woud aow, and, ust as we were toppng a
rse behnd whch I had seen them a three
dsappear, a whste rom the rear brought me to
a standst. My orderes were pontng to my
e t and behnd me. They sgnaed three rhno.
I crept back, beevng them to be the orgna
anmas, and wonderng a the whe how they
had turned round and got back so ucky. I
dd not stop to n ure, however, and t was ony
when I saw that the bu had got sma horns and
was evdenty not my ormer antagonst, that t
occurred to me that I had been wastno- vauabe
tme, and that the one I had ht was some way
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Mr. Church's ourney
o by ths tme, not atogether ost. Ths
proved to be the case, and, search how we woud,
we coud nether pck up hs spoor nor dsturb
hm n a three-me radus. It was sckenng
uck, but coudn't be heped, so we retraced our
steps to Mr. Church's dead rhnos, whch we
cut up and conveyed back to the aunch. One
was a very nce head ndeed, but the others,
though good typca specmens, were nothng out
o the way.
On our return to camp we ound that none o
the remander o the party had come across any-
thng very e ctng, so we decded to steam down
the rver a ter dnner and and n two partes
to try our uck ne t day n pastures new. Mr.
Church, Mr. Marsh, Bennett, and I started
together but, though we tramped or mes and
mes, saw nothng but od eephant tracks and
one sotary hartebeest.
The other party returned n the evenng we
provded wth ood, havng spent the day n
a vertabe game preserve, amdst herds o harte-
beest, waterbuck, and cob. It s very strange
how, sometmes, you nd game congregated to-
gether, when, two or three mes away, nothng
s to be seen. Our companons brought aong
the oca che , a nce eow caed Ba, as
naked as the day on whch he was born. Hs
savage mnd was much perpe ed wth d erent
g ts n the shape o a kmono, a tabe kn e,
93
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#
p
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
some spoons, and a hand u o acd drops. He
cast ongng eyes on the meat, however, and he
neary dropped hs cv ed treasures n hs
eagerness to coar a eg o venson.
We steamed a nght, a ter ths our ast shoot,
to Nmue down the same od rver, past the
same od papyrus banks, steerng n and out o
the oatng sudd sands, and reached our des-
tnaton at 5 p.m. or so. It was dread uy hot
n the sun, and the gare o the water was very
tryng, so we were rght gad to pour down a
coong drnk on arrva. Mr. Spre, the Sub-
Commssoner o the Ne Provnce, met us,
accompaned by Mr. Eden and Captan Fnt,
wth hs poce guard whst our escort o the
K.A.R., whch woud ook a ter us rom here to
Gondokoro, was aso drawn up n charge o Leut.
Red, a rst-rate sportsman and very keen man.
We were royay entertaned at dnner that
evenng. Every o ca n the dstrct who
coud be spared rom out-statons was present,
and I heard a terwards t was the argest number
o peope who had ever dned at one tme n
Mr. Eden's hosptabe abode.
Our stay here was not destned to be o ong
duraton, however, as ne t mornng saw the kt
o wth resh porters and a new reay o pro-
vsons on our hundred and seven me march to
Gondokoro, the ast trek we shoud have together.
The country was rocky, wth outcrops o uart
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#
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Mr. Church's ourney
and ronstone, thcky covered wth dred-up
o rass, whch the natves were bennno- to burn
n paces n readness or the eary rans to
nduce the short green grass to sprng up and
provde ood or ther arge herds o catte.
There were hs, not mountans, studded over
the andscape, though we dd not pass many
cose to the road, whch had been care uy
ceared and weeded n readness or our march.
Some ten mes took us to one o the prettest
o a the camps we stayed at durng our traves.
Ths was on the urther sde o the Assua rver,
at ts uncton wth the Atapp rver, the water
o whch s ce-cod n comparson wth the warm
Assua water that has owed or so many mes
across the sunburnt pans.
The photograph shows the usua roomy houses,
whch had been so kndy prepared or us a
aong the route, under the sheter o some
beaut u borassus pams, whst our dnng-tabe,
a chop bo , and a bunde o beddng are on
ther way across ths now shaow rver, and Mr.
Church s gettng a eg-up on to someone's
shouder to save a wettng so near camp. In
the oreground s a huore tusk beonorng- to a
arge vory caravan we met en route, the property
o some adventurous Indan traders who had
spent the ast eghteen months n the Congo, so
they tod us.
Ths s a great pace or game o a sorts,
95
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
but, on account o the ong grass, we met nothng
on the way, though we were tod to keep our
eyes we sknned rom here onwards.
On the march rom ths pace to the Uma
Rver we passed through a goodsh bt o cut-
vaton, che y smsm, ground-nuts, and mahogo,
a o whch orm the stape ood o the Vtad
trbe. Once we touched bamboo country, whch
seemed odd to me, as n East A rca bamboos
grow ony at e cessve attudes, and here we
were ute ve thousand eet ower than the
regons where they are ound n that part o the
word. We saw tte or no game rom the road,
but Coone Wson agan dstngushed hmse
by securng a coupe o roan anteope ne up-
standng creatures wth ther st manes and ong
tu ted ears. He had made what he descrbed as
a short chukka round, but whch probaby
reay meant that he had sweated bood or mes !
The Uma Rver s, I thnk, the boundary
between the Mad and Bar trbes. The e tent
o country occuped by ths atter trbe s about
a hundred mes aong the rver bank. They are
subdvded nto smaer sectons. The Bar s
thcky nhabted. The genera eatures o the
andscape are rong, park-ke grass ands very
tde actuay at, but a seres o unduatons,
ornamented wth e ceedngy ne tmber orests
o consderabe e tent, and mountans rsng to
about three thousand eet above ther bases.
96
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' 1
1 ',' '
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o c e e o c
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#
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Mr. Church's ourney
From these mountans numerous streams, whch
are generay dry at ths tme o the year, run
nto the Ne. The so s poor n the neghbour-
hood o Gondokoro, but at a dstance rom the
rver the country s erte. The mountans yed
the nest ron ore, and the Benan Bars are
e pert backsmths. Cutvaton s carred on to
a arge e tent throughout the country. The corn
generay grown s dhurra. Ths s usuay the
dark red varety, whch, beng rather btter, has a
chance o escape rom the couds o sma brds
whch run the crops. Bars are e ceedngy neat
n ther dwengs, and there are vages n-
numerabe. Each hut s surrounded by a sma
court composed o cement made rom the cay
o whte - ant hs m ed wth cow-dung and
smeared wth ashes. These courts are kept
scrupuousy cean. The huts are shaped ke
beehves. The nsde wcker-work s ucky
attacked by whte ants, whch destroy the wattes,
but the cay s su centy tenacous to orm a
wa when the wood has dsappeared. The
granares are aso ormed o wcker-work sup-
ported upon uprght pedestas o hard wood or
stone to resst the whte ants the nsde s
smeared wth cow-dung, and the roo s thatched
n a smar manner to the houses. Bars are a
great pastora peope and possess mmense herds
o catte. These are sma, actve anmas wth
humps, whte beng the prevang coour. Lke
H 97
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
most o the trbes beongng to the Whte Ne,
the Bars have a strong ob ecton to se ther
catte. Thus you may starve n the mdst o
bee !
We marched on through the same dry scrub
unge t we reached the Kt Rver, another
o the perenna trbutares o the Ne, now
dry but or a shaow trcke. By the Kt Rver
was a com ortabe banda, at whch we had ntended
campng or the nght, but, ndng our day's march
had been accompshed n a very short tme, we
decded to doube t and get aong moreover,
tme was pressng, and every moment was o m-
portance. Thus the 14th o December saw us at
Gondokoro.
The ast part o the march was through most
unnterestng and dread uy dry country, the
monotony o the scenery beng broken ony by
the grandeur o the Benan Hs.
There was dhurra cutvaton ony near the
base o the mountans, as the so was poor and
sandy. We thus had a ary cear vew o the
country. Catte were gra ng n herds on the
dstant hgh ground, wth natve boys and men
tendng them. The ground was per ecty ceared,
as the catte had ed o the grass t at a tte
dstance t ooked as smooth as a garden awn.
From the poston we occuped, the country n-
cned upwards towards the base o the mountans
about three mes away. Ths stretch abounded
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Mr. Church's ourney
n va res. At the base o the mountans were
broken hs composed o huge grante rocks, the
oundatons o mountans that had ong snce
decayed. Upon a these strong postons were
the vages. There were, perhaps, thrty or so
stuated n the vae and on the heghts aong: the
base o the mountan but at ths season ony
the tops o the huts were vsbe above the hgh
dhurra, whch was ust rpenng, athough the
genera harvest had not yet commenced.
There s no covert so much n avour o natve
war are as the hgh dhurra, whch per ecty con-
ceas the movements o those passng through t
wthout hamperng ther progress.
I beeve that t were possbe to convert
the greater porton o A rcan savages nto ds-
cpned soders, ths woud be the most rapd
strde towards ther uture cv aton. The
en orcng o obedence, order, ndustry, and ds-
cpne, together wth cothng and ceanness, s
a that s absoutey re ured to brng a savage
wthn the bounds o good management. A
savage who has ed a wd and untutored e
must earn to obey authorty be ore any great
mprovement n hs condton can be e ected.
A soder must obey, and he earns to respect hs
o cers as hs superors thus a savage who has
earnt a he knows rom hs o cers, whom he
admts as hs superors, w ucky adopt ther
regon as he has been obged to adopt ther m-
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
tary rues. A the soders n East A rca and
Uganda are Mohammedans smpy because they
had been taught by ther o cers that good
soders shoud be true beevers.
That's nothng to do wth our traves, but I
shoud have bust I hadn't got t o my
chest !
There were a goody mob o the oca back
man drawn up at Gondokoro to receve us
che s or the most part, armed wth Kudu
horns on whch to make nasty noses, and cothed
n eopard skns. They had been got together
by Mr. Wrght, who, n company wth Captan
Garrod o the K.A.R. and Dr. Prtchard, ran
the staton. Mr. Wrght entertaned us noby
wth re reshments, and reated to us a gruesome
tae o an eephant shoot, two days od, n whch
hs un ortunate gun-bearer had been ked by the
n urated brute. The gun-bearer was a very
pucky eow, but un ortunatey had been caught
be ore he coud escape a ter the anma had been
severey wounded. It's strange how t's aways
the best man that goes out on these occasons !
We stayed at Gondokoro or unch, and n the
a ternoon saw our porters pad up, and made a
arrangements or ther return ourney wth Dr.
Gode, whst the three vstors and I had our
own e ects stowed away on the Da, a Sudan
Government steamer that had been sent up to
convey Mr. Church's party to Khartoum.
OO
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1 , * '
3 *
A GROUP OF BARI TRIBESMEN AT GO DOKORO
THE KIT RIVER CROSSING
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Mr. Church's ourney
Captans Save and Cameron, o the Egyptan
army, were on board, the ormer to hep us on
our way, the atter as Governor o Mongaa.
I have gven a ar dea o a voyage down the
Ne esewhere, so the reaton o a ew ncdents
w su ce to descrbe the remander o our
wanderngs.
We began wth rather a ta order, as on
andng at Lado, by speca re uest o the Began
Governor, we ound ourseves downng sweet
champagne at somethng ke 6.45 n the mornng !
A bt steep, eh Soon a ter we reached Mon-
gaa, where Captan Cameron gave us an
e ceent unch thence on t woud be some
tte tme be ore we met another Engsh ace.
A ter Mongaa we reached the sharp bends n
the swamp regon, where, at dnner, Mr. Marsh
met wth a sght contretemps. Wthout any
warnng at a the boat ht the bank, bumpng
wth tremendous orce round a corner. Be ore
you coud say kn e, the shp heeed over to
such an e tent that the a oresad genteman was
shot over backwards, and everythng was ung
on top o hm. He was overwhemed wth a
horrd mess o pates and knves, roast mutton, and
broken gass, soused n botted beer and gravy
m ed : on top o a ths came ourseves, and the
tabe as we, so as to make sure he had a he
coud get !
And he took t ke a amb !
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
At one o the andng-paces on Tonga Isand
a ong way on near Tau ka we stopped or an
hour or two to try or Mrs. Gray's waterbuck
whch nhabts the marshes round here. It was
a o no ava, and wth the e cepton o a dstant
vew o a whte-eared cob or two, whch we spared,
we saw nothng and contnued our ourney to
Kodok, stoppng at Tau ka or etters and dnner.
At Kodok we had a run on shore n the mornng
and caed on Ma or Mathews, the Governor o
the Shuk Provnce, brngng hm back to break-
ast on board. He had arranged or the Mek
or che o the trbe to coect hs men n ther
war pant or our nspecton, but there was such a
btter north wnd bowng that very ew woud
ace the cod. So I was orced to content myse
wth a pcture o a man standng on one eg ke
a stork, whch s characterstc o these savages.
The odd-shaped head-dress whch they wear s
n reaty nothng but ther own har pastered
wth grease and mud t t s matted and worn
nto a et-ke consstency. It s then care uy
shaped ke a an.
A ew mes down the rver we steamed nto a
uet backwater, at a pace caed Meshra era ,
where everythng n the shootng ne had been
prepared or us. Ths was one o the best paces
on the rver, we were n ormed, and shkars were
n readness to take charge.
The rst day, however, proved rather a aure
I02
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Mr. Church's ourney
to Mr. Church and me, who saed orth to-
gether, or, wth the e cepton o a tny herd o
tang, who boted at sght, we saw no other our-
ooted uarry. On nearng home, however, we
became aware o the presence o thousands o
gunea- ow, and a suggeston that we shoud try
and pck some up wth our Manncher r es,
usng sod buets, met wth due reward and
ended n our pottng nne. Ths showed that
Mr. Church s a good shot, whch was ampy
proved ne t day when, on our makng a resh
e curson n the neghbourhood, we came on a
sma herd o whte-eared cob, whch boted n
astonshment as we rounded a corner n the bush.
He upped wth hs r e and knocked down two
stone-dead, rght and e t, whst they were gong
u burst. Ths was ucky oowed by a nce
roan bu whch we ambushed, and a second aso
at u speed, rght and e t agan. Not so dusty !
Mr. Church had aways been a tte ncned
to hod the bg-game shooter up to rdcue, and
I we remember on ths occason he ung hs
r e down and sad, ''Now I begn to see the
ascnaton o the sport ! He woud make a top-
hoe shot he had the tme to spare. Coone
Wson and the others had aso had ther ar
share as usua, baggng n addton tang and
waterbuck so our ast two days' shootng n the
unge was we worth the pans that had been
taken or us.
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
I sha eave a descrpton o Khartoum to
another chapter, and cose ths account o my
rst memorabe march down the Ne. We had
had a most en oyabe trp rom every pont o
vew. Everythng had gone rght we hadn't
had a snge storm or a drop o ran the whoe
party had taken the rough wth the smooth, wth
never a harsh word or the sembance o a grumbe
or whch I must thank every one. Short-
comngs there were, as ndeed there aways are,
even n the best-reouated ames or t was a
tte bt awkward to order the stores and egsate
or a ong trek wth tte to be obtaned en route.
Into the bargan, we had a been snguary
ree rom ness o any descrpton t the very
day o our andng at the Paace steps at Khar-
toum. A ew short words are necessary n
memory o Scrvngs, Mr. Church's vaet, who
had served hs master ath uy or some years,
and who, when a the dangers and hardshps
were over, succumbed to a sudden attack o
ptomane posonng on the very ast nght o the
trp. It was e tremey sad, and put ute a dam-
per on our en oyment. Though he had spraned
hs anke some tte tme back, he was aways
cheer u and never uttered a compant.
Ths was ndeed a sorrow u endng. But I
have never en oyed a trp more or had more
peasant companons to work wth.
May ther shadows never grow ess !
104
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V
UGANDA COB
CO BUS THOMASI
Sudanese : Are
WE can't eave Uganda wthout rst
havng our say about ths pretty ante-
ope. At rst sght he ooks very
ke an mpaah, but he s not o ute
so brght a red, and he s more coarsey but than
the atter. The red shades to whte on hs bey,
and the patch round hs eyes s ght awn nstead
o the dead whte o hs cosey aed cousn
the whte-eared cob o the Sudan. The horns
are yre-shaped, sweepng backwards and out-
wards, and bendng we orward agan at the
tps.
Beng a cob, he s o course very cosey reated
to the waterbucks, so that he s no connecton at
a o the mpaah, and t s a strange thng that
nature has panted hm n Uganda to take the
pace o the pretty mpaah ne t door n East
A rca.
ou w nd hm wth three or our does, or
by hmse , n wettsh marshy ground at no great
dstance rom water and when aarmed, o they
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
go boundng over the hgh grass, now and then
hatng or a moment to spy upon one and see
what s takng pace behnd them.
Ths speces s dstrbuted a over Uganda,
and s ute the commonest anma n the Protec-
torate. I have come across severa very nce
heads ndeed up the Ka u rver, some way rom
Mru, where they run pretty bg and agan up
the Ne by Wadea. They struck me as beng
ary easy to stak, snce they are nether very
wdeawake nor utra-suspcous.
They have a penchant or standng on the very
top o an ant-heap, there s one anywhere near.
The other day I saw one wakng aong, and, not-
wthstandng e cted camours or meat on the
part o my oowers, had made up my mnd to
et hm o , as hs head dd not seem partcu-
ary bg. He uety wandered on, cmbed up
to the top o a mound, and perched hmse
ke a statue aganst the red o the settng sun,
watchno us. Ths was too much ! Not even
St. Anthony coud have ressted the temptaton.
One convusve bound nto the ar, and he ay
dead n the ong grass beow.
Twenty-three nches or twenty- our nches s a
nce head, or t does not grow very much bgger
than that. Indvduas o ths speces are o ten
deceptve n appearance : one s never ute sure
one s shootng at a reay very bg one, and
t s o ten most d cut, even wth the ad o
1 06
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A CORNER OF THE PAI.ACE GARDENS
Sc- /a r /20
UGANDA CoB
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#
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Uganda Cob
gasses, to decde whch s the best head n a
herd.
A teescopc sght s, n my opnon, a most use-
u thng, as, a ter havng ocated the whoe herd
wth one's gasses and made one's stak to wthn
shootabe dstance, one s abe by means o t to
pck out the best head whst the r e s n a pos-
ton to be red and shoot at once, wthout the
doube movement o puttng down one's gasses
and takng up one's r e, whch may mean osng
seht o the anma amonorst the remander o the
herd.
There s another yet more mportant advantage
ganed by the use o a teescopc sght. When
one res at an anma one wshes to k hm
and make sure o securng hm. Ths nstru-
ment enabes one to am more accuratey than
t s possbe to do when usng the open V
sghts.
I met a arge herd o cob recenty on the
shores o Lake Abert, n the mdde o a very
open pece o short grass. There wasn't a stck
or a stone to hde behnd. A we coud do was
to wak steady past them n snge e, a takng-
hard as we dd so. Ther heads went up as we
got coser and they stood st, watchng us and
not attemptng to move rom our apparent ds-
nterestedness they must have thought we were
natves. We were takng so as to deceve them,
and areunsT whch I shoud shoot at, as t was
107
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
most d cut to determne whch o these carred
the bggest head. We swung n a bt and
stopped be ore they got our wnd, and I managed
to secure one o the herd. Uganda cob are pretty
anmas and e ceent eatng.
1 08
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VI
ELEPHANT
E LEPRAS AFRICAN US
SwAHL : Tembo. Arabc : F.
I THINK the story o the baggng o my
rst Uganda eephant s rather amusng,
because he behaved dstncty mpropery
and was a cause o great annoyance to
me, besdes borng one o my men to btter
tears.
When I was on the march north, whst st n
Uganda proper, I got news o a bg herd o
about eghty eephants, wth two good bus n
t. The remander was made up o emaes wth
ther young ones and ha -grown bus. Large
numbers o eephants vst ths part o the
country at the breedng season, because the grass
beng nowhere hgher than a man's shouders,
the tte ones can get about wth greater ease
than n the ta eephant grass descrbed ese-
where. The country here s pent uy sprnked
wth sma trees and stunted shrubs, so ts genera
appearance gves one the mpresson o an Eng-
sh appe orchard on a arge scae. It s a top-
hoe shootng-ground, as t s very d cut to be
109
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o
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2
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2
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T


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t
7
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P
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c

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o
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a

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t
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U
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w
.
h
a
t
h

t
r
u
s
t
.
o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
ambushed by eephants. One can easy see
through the tps o the grass. But, o course,
one stumbes nto the mdde o a herd une -
pectedy, thngs are apt to be a tte too e ctng !
We, the savages who had ocated the ee-
phants, se , my orderes, who were soders rom
my regment, a porter carryng my ood-and-
drnk bo , and one or two others wth a es, etc.,
made an eary start rom my camp, and at about
8.30 a.m. came up wth the rear-guard o the
herd, consstng o about twenty cows and young.
One o the cows had somehow perched herse
on the top o a tree-grown ant-mound, not as a
sentry though, or she was uety eedng. We
sh ted o down wnd so as to keep we cear o
them, when suddeny they took aarm what at
I can't thnk and boted. Then we came across
a snge bu, out by hmse , but we voted hm too
sma, and so aowed hm to wend hs way n
peace to on company wth hs destructve
harem.
On we went n the tracks o the man crush.
The great uadrupeds by trampng down the
grass had made a reguar hgh road or us aong
whch wakng was easy. As we progressed
the changng coour o the dung n ormed us we
were ganng on the herd. At ast we made the
huge brutes out, movng sowy aong n two or
three partes, eedng as they went.
We hung on and hung on, now on one sde,
no
G
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2
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2
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G
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a

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t
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U
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w
.
h
a
t
h

t
r
u
s
t
.
o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Eephant
now on the other, as what tte wnd there was
was dread uy sh ty at ths hour o the mornng.
There was st penty o tme to spare, and we
dd not want to get too cose to them unt we
had spotted the two bg customers. Then
we ost them. They suddeny dsappeared ato-
gether, and we coudn't hear any sound n the
unge, athough we knew they must be some-
where ute cose by. Now came the tcksh
tme, as on account o the sh tng wnd I was
a rad o dashng at t and ndng myse sap n
the mdde o the whoe bong whch s what
actuay happened. They had spread out a bt,
and we went straght ahead, unt suddeny we
ound ourseves n the thck o them. But st
we coud not catch a gmpse o ether o the two
bg bus. It s ute a common thng, by the
way, or the od breedng bus to separate rom
the herd n the sprng o the year, eedng very
o ten as ar as one or two days' ourney away
rom them, accompaned by an od cow or two,
or ese by a young bu, and re onng the herd
a ter our or ve days o ths hermt -ke
e stence.
I had begun to thnk the two bus were a
myth, t, a o a sudden, one o my orderes
ponted out one tremendous great eow about
eghty yards ahead on the other sde o a cearng.
I was at once taken charge o one man se ng
me by the arm, the other pushng me n the
n
G
e
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e
r
a
t
e
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o
n

2
0
1
3
-
1
0
-
0
8

2
1
:
4
6

G
M
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h
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e
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2
7
/
u
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2
.
a
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4
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6
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P
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c

D
o
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a

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t
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U
n

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a
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/


h
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:
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/
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w
w
.
h
a
t
h

t
r
u
s
t
.
o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
back. It was a done n good part. One's
attendants get so e cted at the mere thought o
an eephant that they are apt to take charge o
the whoe show and abber away at one another
n whspers as one wasn't there. Never mnd !
There are not many es on them ! Now t was
a case o needs must when the dev drves,
and I got n the most aw u unk at beng shoved
and pued pe-me nto the mdde o the whoe
push. I camoured or a r e my Manncher
and they grace uy aowed me that, but they
ddn't care a twopenny curse or anythng ese.
And then that veerng wnd! It was a sort o
Baacava ! Cows to the rght o us, cows to the
e t o us, and the bg 'un n ront ! And they
were voeyng and thunderng, .e. makng the
rumbns nose that denotes contentment and
happness takng to the tte ones, so the
natves say.
I had got ha -way across the ate u one, aby
backed up by the ordery wth the heavy r e
a the tme wonderng what woud happen a
snge eephant got our wnd and perceved us,
as, et me emphas e the act, we were bang n
the mdde o a straggng herd when the worst
happened, and a beasty young bu, who was
thnkno when he shoudn't, took t nto hs head
to charge my drnk-bo rom my e t rear. Ths
was more than I coud stand, and I had to take
my eyes o the monster n ront, now some ty
112
G
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o
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2
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1
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2
1
:
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6

G
M
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e
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0
/
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7
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P
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c

D
o
m
a

n

t
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U
n

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a
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.
h
a
t
h

t
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s
t
.
o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Eephant
yards away ony, and et drve at ths obno ous
ntruder, as much to save the precous bo as to
protect the shrekng porter who was carryng t
on hs head. He, however, stuck to hs oad
ke a Brton, and down e the bu, npped n
the bud wth a sod 256 buet between the eye
and the ear-hoe. I then se ed the heavy r e,
determned to do or de n the mdst o the ear-
u pandemonum to whch the report o the r e
gave rse.
Imagne yourse surrounded by about eghty
or nnety evathans, a o whom are dashng
wdy about n any and a drectons, crashng
and smashng through everythng they come
across, trumpetng a round a most awe-n-
sprng nose and you n the mdst, e cessvey
hot and very wet ! Lucky, nothng untoward
happened, and my bue rght subsded. A
thoughts o the bg bu had vanshed or ever
as the herd had ceared, and one coud hear them
st gong strong ha a me away. It was use-
ess to thnk o any attempt at pursut, so I sady
retraced my steps teen measured paces to
the rash dot who had met hs death n hs pa's
pace. He wasn't so sma as I had thought n
the e ctement o the moment, and when hs
tusks were cut out they averaged 52 bs. apece.
Not so bad a ter a !
It s very d cut to udge o an eephant's
tusks uness they are e ceptonay bg. In that
I 113
G
e
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e
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a
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o
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2
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1
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2
1
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6

G
M
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U
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.
h
a
t
h

t
r
u
s
t
.
o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
case you may take t that about two-thrds show
outsde, but n the case o a shortsh thck tusk,
not much more than ha s vsbe outsde the
ps. The root o the tusk begns behnd the
eye and a tte underneath t so, there s no
e ctement on, and no beasty cows kckng about,
one s abe by means o a good ook through
ed-gasses to know one s takng on a bg
tusker or not.
As I have sad, the od bus o ten wander
about by themseves some tte dstance rom
the herd, ony onng up now and agan or a
short tme. The thng s to ocate them when
they are away ke ths by themseves, or then
one has not got to keep one's eyebas contnuay
sknned on the ook-out or a bad-tempered cow,
who mght take one on the hop unawares, and
ram one amdshps but as they are aways more
or ess on the move, t s very d cut or the
gude to nd them agan a ter he has brought
one the news o ther whereabouts.
A wounded bu, very sck ndeed, w very
o ten be heped o by hs pas. One gets on
each sde o hm, and they support hs totterng
ootsteps, shovng hm aong meanwhe and t
s surprsng what progress they make through
the thckest bush and grass.
A very use u shot at a bu gong away rom
one s to am two or three nches ether sde o
hs ta, one s wthn say thrty yards t rakes
114
G
e
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2
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G
M
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2
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0
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t
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3
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P
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c

D
o
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a

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t
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U
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.
h
a
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h

t
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s
t
.
o
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g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
3 3
- 3 %
3 3 1
3 3
3 3 3 3 3.
,3 3 3 3
3 3 3 3 3
3 3 , 3 ,3
3 3 1
3 3 3
3 3 '333
THE STRICKEN RUFFIAN
G
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P
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c

D
o
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t
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U
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.
h
a
t
h

t
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u
s
t
.
o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
c c c
c c '
G
e
n
e
r
a
t
e
d

o
n

2
0
1
3
-
1
0
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0
8

2
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:
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6

G
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P
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D
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a

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t
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U
n

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a
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/


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:
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w
.
h
a
t
h

t
r
u
s
t
.
o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Eephant
hm rght through, and the ange upwards, one
s cose enough and end on, s key to get the
backbone and parayse hm.
Recenty a rend knocked a great bg bu
down twce wth two successve shots n the head,
too ar orward, and saw hm beng heped o by
two cows n the manner a oresad he put n
another shot rom behnd, and even then had the
mort caton o osng hm. The eephant got
away over the border, and the natves o that
part beng, as usua, noted vory theves, coud
not be persuaded to gve up hs tusks.
On another occason a rend, oowng up a
bu he had wounded, was charged by hm and
athough ht twce n the head too hgh though
the eephant got n, stuck my rend n the
thgh wth a tusk, and then se ed hm round the
wast wth hs trunk and proceeded to use hm
ke a penduum, swngng hm rom sde to sde,
bashng down the grass wth hs unconscous
body. He s ave to te the tae, however, how
he was saved by a savage who dved n and
rooted a spear n the anma's tte Mary.
That must have been a top-hoe savage ! The
eephant s a nasty customer, and one hears o
stores gaore about hm, whch are mosty true
at any rate, they have more truth n them than
many a sh story !
In Uganda the Semk eephants at the south
end o Lake Abert carry ong thn tusks, ute
5
G
e
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a
t
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o
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2
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1
3
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0
8

2
1
:
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6

G
M
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2
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a
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/
t
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P
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D
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m
a

n

t
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U
n

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a
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s


/


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.
h
a
t
h

t
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t
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o
r
g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
dstngushabe rom any other tusks. North o
these, as ar as the Ka u rver, through Uganda
proper, an eghty-pound tusker s a good one
that s the oca term or those whose tusks
average eghty pounds apece a ter whch, gong
urther north st, come the Unyoro eephants
and those nhabtng the Ne provnce, whch
are bgger than any, runnng to a hundred and
twenty pounds or so per tusk.
Over n the Congo the tusks aso attan very
arge dmensons, udgng by convoys o Congo
vory that are brought nto Uganda or shpment
home. But t s e cessvey d cut to obtan a
cence to shoot over the other sde o the Ne,
where there are mons o acres o vrgn orest
une pored, and swarmng wth our vauabe ong-
toothed rends.
Cow vory s o very much ner uaty than
bu vory, but one s not aowed to shoot cows,
and even one pcks up a cow's tusks they are
con scated by Government. They are very
much shorter and thnner than those o the bu.
I shoud thnk one o thrty pounds woud be
a bg tusk.
One may not shoot a bu n Uganda or n the
Sudan wth tusks under eeven pounds weght
each on pan o beng ned and havng the
tusks con scated, and now n Brtsh East
A rca the mnmum has been rased to s ty
pounds the par wth the same penaty attached
6
G
e
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e
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a
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o
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2
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1
3
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1
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0
8

2
1
:
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6

G
M
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h
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7
/
u
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2
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a
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:
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0
/
t
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P
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D
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m
a

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t
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U
n

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a
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s


/


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:
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w
.
h
a
t
h

t
r
u
s
t
.
o
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g
/
a
c
c
e
s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Eephant
or baggng anythng under ths weght so t
s a great bore to be obhged to shoot a tny bu
or a chargng cow n se -de ence, they both count
on one's cence two ony are aowed on each
cence and there ore one eephant s practcay
wasted.
A rend, the other day, shot hs bu a
seventy-pounder then, mmedatey a terwards,
a cow n se -de ence, and went home angry.
Imagne then hs horror on beng- con ronted
wth the news ne t day that a second cow had
been ound dead near the ormer cow. Presum-
aby one o hs shots at the chargng cow had
ked the second whst hdden behnd some ong-
grass. That s the ony way the death o the
second cow coud be accounted or.
117
G
e
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a
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2
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2
1
:
4
6

G
M
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/
u
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2
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a
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:
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0
/
t
7
4
t
6
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5
3
g
P
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c

D
o
m
a

n

t
h
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U
n

t
e
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S
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VII
KHARTOUM AND OMDURMAN
IT w be ess d cut or me to descrbe
these two towns I take them together and
t backwards and orwards across the rver
as occason demands and, ndeed, Khar-
toum and Omdurman are one so ar as trade and
admnstraton go, and are known to the outsde
word as one the capta o the Sudan.
Be ore I go any urther, however, t w be
ust as we to menton that the descrpton whch
oows records my rst mpresson o the pace
when I saw t as a compete stranger at the
Chrstmas o 1907.
Certan naccuraces must there ore be orgven
me. I know the pace better now, but st woud
ke to descrbe t as I then saw t, as t woud be
hopeess to con ound to-day wth two years ago.
I had ong wshed to vst Khartoum, and rom
the south by the same route that I actuay dd.
The ne od tempes and tombs, magn cent
monuments o a dead and gone cv aton, woud,
I knew, appea to me tremendousy but I wshed
to approach the hstorc pace rom the south by
the tosome route I dd actuay take and not
118
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1
,

1 3 5
' ' .', '' ' ' '
.- 3', 5 3
'' ' 3 - '3'3* '
, , ,3 3 ' ', 3 ' S ' 3 ' 3'
' ' 3 3 3 3 3 ' 3 ' 3 '3 3 ' 3 3 3 ' 3
'1 UK 'ALACE, KHAKOuM
A STREET I KIIAKTOUM
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Khartoum and Omdurman
rom the drecton o Caro n a com ortabe raway
carrage, ke a Cook's tourst, and have my sou
ve ed by nterpreters, dragomans, agents o a
sorts, and other annoyng peope who nsst on
everythng beng done n ts proper order by
rotaton, and, worse than a, to have everythng
so thoroughy we e paned by some wakng
Baedeker as to make t bana to hear. I ke
ndng thngs out or myse and askng uestons
when t seemeth good to me.
We, as we steamed n the good shp Da
down the Whte Ne, Khartoum appeared n due
course : the geamng whte mnarets o the
mos ues rose above the noddng heads o the
eathery pam trees, whch make o t a ovey
wavng green oass amdst the sandy, burnt-up
pans around.
On we steamed sowy, as the rver s u
o shaows here, t Omdurman hove n sght on
the starboard bow I mean the near sde.
Khartoum then dsappears or a moment rom
one's thoughts one's attenton s atogether
taken up wth Omdurman, the ate Dervsh
stronghod and hotbed o Mohammedan anat-
csm, whch seems at rst sght to be an nsgn -
cant coecton o mud huts on the e t bank a ter
the uncton o the two rvers, the Bue and
Whte Nes.
It s best to take one's peasures and, n act,
most thngs as they come, so we' have a dg
119
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
at Khartoum, and especay the paace there,
rst.
The now amous batte, o whch more anon,
that put an end to the Dervsh rue, was ought
on the 2nd o December, 1898. In those days
Khartoum was nothng more or ess than a mass
o runs and tumbedown houses set n a barren
wderness. A had been destroyed by order
o the Kha a. No one ved amongst the debrs
o the once grreat embem o Brtsh mcrht and
rght o poor Gordon's tme. A had gone to
wreck and run, save the pam trees whch had
not been ncuded n the genera destructon, and
whch are now one o the beautes o ths cty.
In those days, when the crue Mahd and the
boodthrster Kha a regned successvey su-
preme, ther head- uarters were sh ted over to
Omdurman. I am tod that seven short years
ago or thereabouts a was chaos n Khartoum.
Now what a change there s !
The great whte paace, wth ts beaut u and
taste uy ad-out gardens, stands orth, towerng
above the other budngs, on the orgna ste
o Gordon's paace o the od days, but arger,
stateer, and more o ty than o yore. The
Brtsh and Khedva ags wave to and ro
pacdy n the bree e, mpartng a sense o securty
to the town and ts surroundngs.
We have now reached the banks o the Bue
Ne. Owng to the heavy oods or whch ths
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Khartoum and Omdurman
rver s remarkabe, a great porton o the rver
ront here s embanked wth masonry. A stone
ght o steps eads rom the andng-stage and
conducts us up to the precncts o the paace,
where a good stout Brtsh sentry s the rst
thng that meets our eyes good and reabe, but
not necessary stout, by the way.
The paace aces the rver, and s but wth
two wngs runnng back and a garden courtyard
n between. It s one o the cooest and most
com ortabe houses I have ever struck n the
East, but that s che y due to the kndness
and hosptaty o ts occupants.
On enterng the coo whte ha, the was o
whch are decorated wth ances and varous guns,
one gets a gmpse o the gardens beyond, and as
one cmbs the steps to the house above, one sees
these beaut u gardens spread out be ore one.
Very coo they seem a ter the hot voyage down
the Ne. Nce green awns ad out or cro uet
or tenns pam trees, owers, back watde n
boom d erent knds o shrubs, every varety
o hothouse pants and unge vegetaton meet
the eye a s green and peace u.
Last but not east n case I orget hm aean
s the whae-headed stork, Baaencps re , the
property o Lady Wngate. He seems to ke
havng hs photograph taken, or he stands ute
st durng the process and he s even ncer on
hs way to bed. He cannot bear the coo marshy
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
corners, and never dsports hmse n a tte
rrgaton channe by means o whch the water
s conveyed a over the garden, but pre ers to
wak about on the burnng dry grave. Ths
s odd, seeng that hs home s n the sudd
country o the Whte Ne. He oves hs keeper
very much, and so showed hs dsgust on one
occason when the man was removed, that he very
neary ded, and was ony resusctated n the nck
o tme by the sad keeper's reca rom durance
ve or some such horrd pace. The brd's manner
o showng hs a ecton s by openng hs aws
one can hardy ca t beak showng a great red
throat, and smackng hs mandbes at hs keeper,
who seems to apprecate the compment.
However, to Khartoum agan ! A the rver
ront s but over. The houses, whch are
occuped by Sudan o cas, cv and mtary,
are but o red brck n a pctures ue but pan
and substanta stye o archtecture, and are most
com ortabe wthn. Most o them are smothered
n creepers, whch gve them a pretty and homey
ook. The wde verandahs to st n by day, and
the at roo or one's bed by nght, hep to keep
the occupants coo and peace u n the worst o
hot weather. Each o these houses boasts o a
ovey garden, n whch grow a knds and
varetes o trees, as we as masses o owers,
but o course there were not many n boom at
Chrstmas-tme n the mdde o the dry weather.
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7 . V
3 t
1 D 5
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Khartoum and Omdurman
Last, but not east, each garden has ts awn o
good Engsh grass, kept smooth and short and
tdy. Water s ad on rom the Ne every
house has ts mnature system o canas and
watercourses connectng t wth the saka, or
natve water-whee a arge, cumsy, creakng
apparatus, contnuay wndng up an endess
chan wth tte buckets attached the whoe thng
turned by a buock, who wanders round n a
perpetua crce pung up hs buckets whch
tp themseves nto a trough as they appear one
by one sowy but surey, usuay wth hs
attendant boy ast aseep on hs yoke.
Khartoum s n reaty the seat o the Govern-
ment, whst a the trade n the country passes
through Omdurman. The War O ce, the Post
O ce, and the Gordon Coege are a n Khar-
toum, acng the rver, whst behnd them are the
European shops, owned and run by Greeks or
the most part that s to say, a the good ones
are. The town s, I beeve, ad out n the
pattern o a Unon ack, a man roads eadng
to Gordon's Statue, whch stands up we outned
aganst an Eastern sunset. The man on the
came s we cacuated to mpress the Arab mnd.
The town has sprung up wonder uy n the
short tme t has been growng, but that s che y
due to good and aws and the system o eases,
as we as to the enterprse o the Greek trader.
The Sudan wthout a Greek woud be ke bread
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
wthout butter. Lke the natve o Inda, the
Greek trader thnks ony o money. Who coud
magne ths a mass o runs such a short tme
ago, or who coud wsh or oer surroundngs
amd whch to pass some years o one's e n,
t a haboob comes aong
Now a haboob, or oca sandstorm, s a
pretty bad thng when t appears, or rather sur-
prses one n the mdde o the nght. I know
these dust storms o od n my Indan days, but
n Hndustan you are unucky they ast or
ha an hour, whst n Khartoum they go on or
a whoe day and more sometmes. ou may
bung up every hoe and crevce, cose the wndows
and put sandbags aong the oot o the door,
but t's not a bt o good, as very soon a
thck m o dust w have setted over a, whst
the heat wth everythng shut up s st ng. For-
tunatey these sandstorms usuay come rom the
south-east they come rom the opposte drec-
ton, the dust o Khartoum North, straght opposte
on the other bank o the Bue Ne, churned up
by thousands o raway and dockyard eet, woud
make the resut douby appang. I'm a rad,
however, much as I shoud ke to goss over
them, I can't ute consgn haboobs nto ob-
von, as they are sad to be partcuary bad n
Apr and May, and I e perenced a tny one
that Chrstmas to gve me an dea o what they
are ke.
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Khartoum and Omdurman
Another thng that struck me n Khartoum
was the number o donkeys. The rdng donkey
s part and parce o Khartoum and Omdurman.
I am ute certan Khartoum was made or the
donkey, and not the other way round. Donkeys
are ub utous. There are mons o them, a
conveyng someone somewhere. ou meet ong
eows, short eows, back eows, some eows
wth ther hees wthn s nches o the ground
ether n u war pant or n mmacuate poo kt
ades, and a and sundry, bestrdng I shoud
say seated on a donkey o sorts, and beng
carred aong. A the rder has to do s to
wagge hs eet somewhere round the eyes or
ears o the ass, and he goes ke smoke. The
donkey-boys keep them movng by makng nasty
noses behnd one's back, but I wsh they woudn't
beat them, as that hurts the anmas, besdes
neary unseatng one when the poor brutes nch
under the bows.
Then, at Khartoum s the Gordon Coege,
ounded n memory o one o Engand's greatest
heroes to educate the sons o the notabes n
the and, and brng them up n the way they
shoud go.
Practcay the whoe o the admnstraton s
centred n the War O ce, an mposng-ookng
red-brck budng standng back rom the rver,
stuated ne t to the paace. Here the cv and
mtary departments have ther o ces n d erent
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
parts o the sod pe the guard s urnshed by
one o the smart Egyptan battaons uartered
on the outskrts o the cty. The Army o
Occupaton n Caro and Lower Egypt generay
sends one Brtsh regment up here annuay, as,
though aw uy hot, the cmate s e tremey dry
and heathy, much more bearabe than the most,
steamy heat caused by the great system o rrga-
ton obtanng n Caro 1500 mes north. The
cmate s so dry that, wthout e aggeraton, a
pece o bread cut at the begnnng o unch s
ke a bt o toast at the end o the mea. The
Brtsh regment the Roya Dubn Fusers n
1907-8 s housed n ong, ow, roomy barracks
a short dstance up the Bue Ne, nestng under
the waterworks tower.
On the opposte bank o the Bue Ne s
Ha aya, or Khartoum North, a busy, nosy
pace, echong wth the whstng o many engnes
and the cang o the steam hammer drvng rvets
nto the ron hus o the steamboats, or t boasts
the raway termnus and a dockyard. A brdge
onng up the raway wth Khartoum proper s
n course o constructon, and when that s com-
peted Khartoum w be, so to speak, propery
coected a under one roo . The dockyard goes
ahead by eaps and bounds yeary. AH the gun-
boats and other steamers are put together here,
the varous sectons and armour pates beng
shpped out rom home. Here s aso the
126
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Khartoum and Omdurman
Egyptan Army Stores, where one can buy any-
thng rom a 12 -pounder gun to a uncheon
basket.
Droppng down the Bue Ne or some two
mes to ts uncton wth the Whte Ne, we see
Omdurman acng us on the e t bank. These
twn towns are connected by a system o tram-
ways and erres most convenent and nvaraby
crammed, and so I was tod most pro tabe
to those who run them.
At rst sght Omdurman appears as an nter-
mnabe coecton o ow mud houses straggng
above a muddy oreshore, wth, by way o ore-
ground, a pctures ue tange o masts and yards
o the arge eet o gyassas and nuggers, whch
have brought the country's produce down the Ne
to ths huge market the whoe shouetted aganst
the everastng bue Eastern sky. One does not
rea e the e tent o the town nowadays, nor the
huge dmensons to whch t must have attaned
durng the Dervsh rue, unt one has mounted
one o the ong-su erng donkeys and has rdden
round. Everywhere s a sea o mud huts, n-
descrbaby thy hoves, openng on to narrow
streets, each successve one seemng more dngy
and goomy than the ast. Practcay a over
the town, and more especay on the outskrts,
one sees numbers o houses aen out o repar
and nto dsuse, washed down by the rans, t n
some cases merey the bare outne o the was,
127
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
some one or two eet hgh, shows where a habta-
ton used to be ten years ago. The masses o
peope that were coected here shorty be ore the
na tra o strength under the Kerrer Hs,
sounds ncredbe at the present day, and one
wonders how such a popuaton coud possby
have been ed and kept together even or a short
tme.
The che pace o nterest, I take t, s the
run o the Mahd's tomb, whch, as everyone
knows, was used as a shrne by the pgrms rom
ar and wde, t nay demoshed by shes rom
the Brtsh guns at the cosng scenes o the
batte. It stood n a sma courtyard, and ts
great whte dome shone up mposngy over the
bare e tent o sandy pan surroundng Omdur-
man to the west. Over the road ust opposte s
the Kha a's house a very ordnary ookng
abode, but o sun-dred brcks. It has a bath-
room nsde wth a arge ted bath, ghted by
means o skyghts, n order that no one mght
see the hoy man at hs abutons. The house s
now nhabted by the cv o cer n charge o
Omdurman.
Outsde s a vast s uare waed n wth stone,
where the whoe o the popuace were orced to
coect reguary at a certan hour day to sten
to the Kha a's e hortatons, and hs e poundng
o the Koran. The story goes that he, beng
an ous to consodate hs power n the cty, had
128
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3 . 3 S
3 5 ' 5
3 5 V V
1-1 ' 1 -
wmu e. g .
tya2k. g-,: . tnr'UM
'
THE KHALIFAS S UARE, OMDURMAN
THE MAHDIS TOMB
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Khartoum and Omdurman
sent drectons or hs own partcuar trbe, the
Taasha, to come and ve n Omdurman. They
had no arms, however, wth whch to stand up
aganst the r es o the remander so the
Kha a hed a speca servce one ne day, that
a the other trbes e ceptng the Taasha had to
attend. Moreover, he caused t to be not ed
that t woud be hghy mproper or anyone to
come to prayer armed, and that the rght thng
to do woud be to eave ther r es and bandoers
outsde the s uare. We, they say he preached
a specay ong sermon that day, and when the
un ortunate congregaton were at ast aowed to
depart, they ound the Taasha drawn up n pos-
sesson o a ther r es and ammunton. And
these were not returned to ther owners.
The Bet-e- Ma or treasure-house o the od
days s nterestng. In ths used to be stored
a the Mahd's -gotten weath weath ac ured
by e torton and murder when a other means
aed. The amount o vauabe property theren
rom tme to tme must have been worth a vast
sum o money.
The corn and wood markets on the rver ront,
as we as the ba aar contanng meat, vegetabes,
and other produce n the centre o the town, are
we worth seeng, and must have been mmense
n days gone by. Near these are the sver-
worknor hoves dark and nosome dens the
pottery market, and the sma stores o the thrd-
K 129
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
rate Greek traders, a m ed up wth the carpen-
ters' uarter, a sma Indan ba aar, and the
curosty shops.
The Greek s ub utous throughout the ength
and breadth o the Sudan, and s worth hs
weght n god n the shopkeepng ne. They
te me that n Ktchener's march up the rver to
orht the batte, amost as soon as the advance
guard o the army arrved at ts new camp n
the evenng, there was the humbe store o the
Greek awatng them provded wth a the knds
o odds and ends necessary and dear to the so-
der's heart.
An e ceent rue, n actua workng order n
Omdurman, s that a mud houses aong what are
destned to be the man thorough ares o the
town, have to be knocked down and the owner
s compeed by the terms o hs ease to bud a
stone one n ts pace, on pan o canceaton o
that document. The dea s gong ke wd re,
so that n as short a tme as su ced or the res-
surrecton o Khartoum rom a heap o runed
debrs, we sha be unabe to recogn e the
Omdurman o yore.
There s a brgade three battaons o Su-
danese troops uartered here t was deght u
to see ther beaut uy ugy aces. Back and
stod, they orm part o the seasoned and spen-
dd ghtng men o the Egyptan army. The
9th, oth, and 14th Sudanese were n Omdurman
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Khartoum and Omdurman
and the st, 3rd, and 8d Battaons o Egyptan
troops as opposed to the Sudanese back
were uartered n Khartoum over the rver.
Smartness wasn't the word or them. I was
never so much mpressed n my e as I was on
beng present at a revew o some our thousand
troops the mornng a ter our arrva at Khartoum.
Cavary, gaopng Ma m batteres, mounted n-
antry, and two n antry brgades were on parade.
The precson and e acttude wth whch they
per ormed ther d erent and vared evoutons,
ke so many machnes, as they marched and
countermarched, was tte short o marveous.
A ew days a ter, by way o addng greater
emphass to ths parade, I was ortunate enough
to be abe to wtness the pck o each regment
o these e traordnary we-dred troops, com-
petng aganst one another n a mtary tourna-
ment whch asted or three days. As every man
was wound up and on hs mette to try and wn
each d erent event or hs battaon, the udges
must, I shoud say, have ound t e tremey
d cut to pck out the best o such a good ot o
compettors. The men moved e acty ke so
many cockwork automatons n act, a descrp-
ton o that tournament n the most e travagant
terms woud scarcey do ustce to the rea thng.
On Chrstmas Day an amost overcrowded
servce at the paace as the church has not yet
been but was oowed by a deght u rde on
131
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
came-back, to vst the scene o the great batte
under the Kerrer Hs, some s mes out o
Omdurman. Ths was rendered a the more
nterestng by the act that Mr. Wnston
Church personay conducted the trp and as he
had been attached to the 21st Lancers n ther
amous charge towards the end o the batte, the
whoe thng was rhetorcay e paned, and the
od scene ad out be ore our eyes, begnnng
wth the premnary operatons o the prevous
nght st December, 1898 , oowed by ne t
mornng's e ctng a ar o outposts round the
tte rocky h o ebe Surgam, wth a dstant
vew o our vctorous army's entrenchments
down by the rver, and topped up wth a rde
over the actua ground where the charge took
pace. There s a monument erected to the
memory o those o the brave 21st who e n
that bod hand-to-hand smack at the vasty arger
pack o Dervshes conceaed n the narrow khor.
Strangey enough, the nce od man who was n
charge o the cames we rode on ths pcnc had
been n the batte hmse , one o the Kha a's
rght-hand men, and he tod us, amongst other
thno s, that he hmse had been one o the
keenest n the hot pursut o Satn n hs thrng
escape rom thrteen years' captvty n the Dervsh
camp. Now he serves the Brtsh ag wth un-
swervng oyaty. But the rea od Sudanese are
ust ke that. They w ght ke wd cats or
132
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Khartoum and Omdurman
rght and mght so ong as they are rmy con-
vnced that t s ar and s uare. To gve another
case n pont : some years ago we got a batch o
recruts or the Kng's A rcan R es, who had
been taken prsoners at the stormng o the
Atbara areba n 1898 by the Brtsh army n
ther advance on Khartoum. A ter some years
o eaous servce wth hs new battaon, one o
the batch a certan prvate appeared at ordery
room one mornng wth a compant. On beng
tod to state hs case, he asked he need be
made to do hs physca dr on parade any
more as he was so od. On beng uestoned
as to hs age, he produced rom hs trouser pocket
a ong strng o medas some o whch he sad he
had won when servng or the Emperor Ma -
man n Me co n the s tes ! It was per ecty
true, and he was accorded the re ured permsson
and now the dear od thng has been made
regmenta ordery, and sts bnkng at the sun
on a seat o hs own, per ecty happy, st wth
medas, dong odd obs, and smart as a new pn.
He was ute prepared to serve any master or
cause oyay to the utmost o hs abty.
Sudanese are rst-rate eows to serve wth, and
take the rough wth the smooth and never a
grumbe. A oke or a bt o cha goes down
we, and they show ther apprecaton by openng
wde ther great bubber-ke ps and e hbtng
the whte vores n a terrbe grn rom ear to
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
ear. They become very much attached to ther
Brtsh o cers, and produce a ther amusng
tte amy dsputes or hs e amnaton, pacng
mpct trust n hm and obeyng hs yes or no
ke so many overgrown chdren. The Sudanese
enst or about tweve years, and the Egyptans
are conscrpted or about ve years. The atter
are very ne men to ook upon. I beeve the
reason or ther spendd appearance es n the
act that out o every hundred men ony three
are pcked, so, the choce beng enormous, ony
the nest are taken.
Then there are the sportng and socety e cte-
ments o Omdurman and Khartoum to be set
orth as I saw them. Frst, the na match o
the poo tournament. The n antry team, who
n a most sensatona game had beaten the cavary
n the sem- na ute une pectedy, were to pay
the sta team, who were pronounced unde eat-
abe. The atter managed to pu t o pretty
easy, but t was good to watch the game once
more, as the ba traveed we on the hard-
baked sand sur ace, and the pones' hoo s ary
ratted.
An od rend n the Esse regment, whom I
used to know n Inda, payed a sterng game.
It was a great treat to me to see so many Arab
pones together, and good-ookng ones at that,
especay as I had arrved rom a country where
horses don't grow. The Arab steed was one o
134
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Khartoum and Omdurman
the reasons why the cavary ooked so eve and
smart at the revew n ther trot, canter, and
gaop past, wth the bay troop wedged n be-
tween the outer ones o greys.
In uck successon came a ba at the paace,
oowed by a sand-grouse shoot n the eary
mornng. A the rank and ashon o Khartoum
took the oor and ooted t hot and strong
t the sma hours, when we departed n
peace on a steam-aunch or Omdurman the
okes and ests graduay ded away to a mur-
mur as we spped down the seepng rver
under the stars. I, wth the orderes and
gun-bearers, whom I had brought wth me
rom my battaon n Uganda or the trp wth
Mr. Church, were vng wth the oth Su-
danese, and a merry tme they gave us ! Rght
good eows a ! Many thanks to them or ther
kndness to me and mne, and may the best
o uck attend them when they come to be
strangers n a strange and !
We had not to get up so very eary the ne t
mornng or the sand-grouse, as 7.45 a.m. was
the tme ed or the rende vous, to whch we
made our way each on hs patent moke. Up
the Whte Ne or about three mes we ambed,
t the tme came or us to take acton. The
mode o procedure was as oows. The guns,
each wth a tte natve boy to act as retrever,
sat themseves down some thrty yards rom the
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
water's edge and about eghty yards apart. There
s no cover avaabe or conceament, but that
does not appear to make much d erence. That
day there were eeven guns out on our sde o the
the rver, and I dare say we ned about a me
and a ha o the bank.
Soon the brds appeared ghtng to the water,
hgh n the ar n sma ocks. In a ew mnutes
the un became ast and urous, guns poppng
and bangng away a around. The sky was
back wth the ocks o sand-grouse as they
wnged ther way rom the desert, utterng ther
curous harsh, metac cry the whe. And then
when they setted down to drnk t was ony or
the merest second be ore they were o agan. I
shoudn't thnk t worth whe comng so ar or
such a momentary drnk! Our party o ve guns
succeeded n pckng up orty-two brds, whst
the opposton urther aong, bagged seventy-
ve to s guns. Not so bad, consderng that
the shoot ony asted a ha -hour or so. Then
back we rode to break ast and the e ctements o
the comng day.
I must not org et to menton a na scene.
On the a ternoon be ore I was compeed to bd
adeu to these kndy and hosptabe towns there
was a eve n the paace gardens n honour o
the new Brtsh Mnster n Egypt, who had
arrved that mornng. A sorts, s es, and con-
dtons o men were present. Governors and
136
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Khartoum and Omdurman
ther attendant gded sta s the bruta and cen-
tous sodery n ther smart un orms cvan
gentemen n back rock-coats set o by ther
red tarbooshes e , composed the European por-
ton, who had e t ther wves at home n accord-
ance wth oca customs, e cept those who had
been asked to tea by the kndy hostess o the
paace to vew ths gtterng scene rom the coo
verandah above. But by ar the most numerous
and pctures ue were the varous natve che s and
ther retnues cothed n Eastern grarb. Od uber
was there n a gtterng Turksh Pasha's un orm,
amost conceaed, however, by an ancent great
coat that had evdenty seen servce some years
be ore. Hoary-headed od men and mere boys,
ta and short, at and otherwse, a more or ess
mportant, and a bg bugs n ther ways, some
gorgeousy, others pany dressed, amused them-
seves n the coo greenery o the paace gardens.
It was a most nterestng and brant spectace,
but t struck me that the man who en oyed t
most was Satn Pasha, who busted about wth
hs chest smothered n our or ve rows o meda
rbbons, wth a sme, a nod, or a handshake or
everyone. O course, durng the years o hs
captvty he must have met most, not a, o
these natve notabes and anyhow, he seemed
to me the man who was by ar the busest,
and got more amusement out o the show than
anyone ese.
137
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
I was very sorry to say good-bye to the pace.
The vared scene o coour, o humanty, and o
trade and tra c a umbed together n a strange
country was nterestng n the e treme. The
streets and ba aars are thronged by the dusky
descendants o an od-tme peope, cryng ther
wares, shoutng to ther anmas, or s uattng
on the ground n cumps o threes and ours,
earnesty whsperng and busy concoctng a
pan or e tractng an e tra arthng a bushe or
ther corn rom some un ortunate ndvdua, who
on beng anded wth the bargan woud turn
round and do to some other person as had been
done unto hm. The ant whste o the tran
over the rver, the swsh o water churned up by
the stern-whee gunboats, and, nearer at hand, the
s ueakng creak o the water-whees turned
by the md-eyed o en, provde an abundance o
sound, whst the ruste o the trees and the
gory o the owers are provocatve o sumber
be ore the grate u evenng bree es rppe across
the water and render the ar coo enough or an
evenng rde.
The ourney back entaed a weary two
months' trek, and athough t was key to
prove e ctng and nterestng rom a sportng
pont o vew, I was oth to eave cv aton to
return by myse aong a route I had ust come
over n congena company. There ore, as we
steamed once more nto the nght t was wth
138
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#
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a 1 O 3 9
3 ' ' ', ' '
' ' 1 ' , '
' 1 55 1 '' ' ' '
A NATIVE WA KK-W Hhh.
see page I S
LION
///.r mother L'as smary spotted
see page 144
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#
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Khartoum and Omdurman
eengs o sadness that I saw the eathery
crowns o the statey pam trees ade nto the
northern goom, whe the sender crescent o the
moon sank to bed n the west.
139
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VIII
LION
FELIS LEO
SwAHL : SMBA. Arabc : Asa
EVER ONE knows the on rom hs
schooboy days. We've a seen hm
n a oo, not n hs natura state, so
I' not date upon hs appearance but
try and descrbe my atest encounters wth hm.
On my way up the Ne, on my return ourney
to Uganda, I took advantage o the Srdar's
kndness n aowng me to purchase a cence at
the cheap rate prescrbed or Sudan Government
o cas and aso o the permsson accorded
therewth to and at Meshra era n the Game
Reserve. I had spotted ths pace on my way
down wth Mr. Church, and had made a menta
note o t then, n the event o my beng aowed
to shoot n the Sudan on my return.
I was temporary marooned by the south-
bound Post boat, and e t behnd there n the
eary mornng hopng or the best as regards
beng pcked up agan to work my wcked w
amongst the Sudan game anmas congregated n
ths dstrct at the begnnng o the dry season.
140
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Lon
My camp was duy ptched about ha a me
rom the rver, to avod as ar as possbe the
unpeasantness and ev e ects o the mos utoes.
I e t a whte ag yng on the bank o the Ne,
so that anyone who knew o my beng there
and I had taken the precauton o n ormng the
necessary o cas prevousy coud sound a bast
on the steam whste o hs passng steamer, and
dever or receve communcatons.
Whst my tent was beng set up and a m-
pedmenta ed, I took a good wak n order to
spy out the and, as we as to get somethng or
the arder and make the oundatons or a stock-pot.
I ound the country dry and parched the back-
cotton so under oot was cracked and dusty the
rnge o acacas and wat-a-bt thorn bushes, a
short dstance rom the rver, were cryng aoud
or want o water whst nand there was nothng
but dry and crackng staks o burnt-up grass to
mpede wakng, wth the resut that my puttes
soon became a mass o spear-grass and wd
tea es. Ths ceary showed us that water was
scarce nand, that n a probabty anma e
depended whoy on the rver, and that creatures
o a sorts were key to come rom ong dstances
nand to sake ther thrst. My wak round
proved un rut u e cept or gunea- ow, wth
whch the country swarmed, so, havng taken
good to rom the many ocks, I remaned
at home, contentng myse wth gettng every-
141
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
thng shpshape and makng pans or the
morrow.
Eary ne t mornng, some tme be ore dawn, I
set out on my rst day's shoot, hopng that,
havng started n the dark, I shoud be abe to
catch, on ther way back to ther eedng grounds
about two or three mes nand, any anmas that
meht have drunk at the rver ater than usua.
We had made good progress by the tme t
became s ht enouo-h to see, and the rst thng-
we came on were three roan, a nce bu and two
cows. So I started n or a stak. Soon, how-
ever, somethng started them, and they were o
down wnd ke a shot. We trudged aong n
sence, and when I pcked them up agan through
my gasses, I ound they had oned a herd o tang.
Ths dscovery made me a the more keen, as
I had never come across the atter be ore. I
contnued the stak.
As uck woud have t, I now got m ed up, n
medas res, wth a arge ock o gunea- ow, wth
whch the country was smpy teemng, and I was
orced to wat so as to et them get my wnd and
run away, nstead o makng them take wng and
y n a chorus o cackng shreks, and so gvng
the anteopes the o ce that there was danger to
themseves on oot.
That took some tme, but when I cautousy
rased my head under cover o a bush, t was a
rght the creatures I was stakng were st there,
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unconscous o my presence. They were now
about two hundred yards away, so I kept on
more care uy than ever, havng e t my orderes
a ong way behnd to mnm e the danger o
beng spotted by these watch u beasts. The
men had orders to st on an ant-heap, o whch
there were severa dottng the pan, and watch
or my sgnas on hearng a shot red. Coser
and coser I crept, by ths tme n a thy grme
a over rom the ashes o grass res that strewed
the ground, t I reached the tte bush, about as
arge as a bard tabe, that I had marked down
as my goa. uety and sowy I rased myse
to peer over t, and as uety and sowy up got
another ace to ook at me !
I reay don't know who was the more surprsed
o the two, the on or I ! I ancy he must have
been n two mnds whether to attack me or not
as he proved to be dread uy thn or ese
he reay hadn't ute decded what strange beast
t was advancng uety upon hm.
At a events, o he gaoped wth a wu !
I had ust tme to turn the sa ety-catch o my
Manncher on, get the sghts agned, and pu
the trgger, to see hm upset behnd a thck thorn
bush. I sped upon hm rom a sa e dstance and
saw he was ht n the neck, and so was as good as
done or, I there ore sgnaed to the orderes
to advance wth a speed. By the way, the roan
and tang were nowhere to be seen rom the
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
bush. They must have spotted ether the stak-
ng on or myse and boted. That s very
key what had heped to put the on o hs
stroke, as ar as I was concerned. The neck shot
never actuay ks the anma on the spot, as was
proved agan on ths occason but t renders
hm competey hors de combat.
I went up behnd and gave hm a prod n the
neck wth the r e, and he ust managed to ha
rase hs head wth a ow grow, so I gave hm an
e tra one to nsh hm o . He was a very bg
on as regards s e, but a young one udgng by
hs teeth, and ear uy thn, poor brute. We ad
hm out, sknned hm on the spot, took the skn
straght back to camp, pegged t out n the sun,
and thoroughy dressed t wth dry wood ashes.
It s most necessary to take great pans wth
a on's skn, partcuary on the part where the
whskers and mane grow, as the har s more
abe to come out than n the case o any other
anma, I thnk. The caws aso have to be care-
uy ceaned both nsde and out.
The story o the ast day o my stay here at
Meshra era s aso nterestng, as yet another
on bt the dust. Ths tme I was takng round
two rends, W. and P., to try and show them
a roan, as havng spent a week here I consdered
that I knew the best paces n whch to nd them.
W. was on hs honeymoon wth hs w e, shoot-
ng hard as we, and P. had oned them or
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a bt o sport up the Ne. Charmng peope, and
ony too ready to be amused !
O we started, and waked and waked, t I
began to get very dsgusted at not seeng any-
thng, as we had been a over the best roan
ground. At ast, as we were emergng out o bush
to an open bt o pan. P., who was sghty n
advance, put up hs r e at somethng. The
cartrdge mssed re and gave us tme to come
up wth hm and nd a oness, totay unconscous
o our cose pro mty, as we were the rght way
o the wnd wakng unconcernedy across our
path.
Bang ! went W. 's r e, but he mssed her cean,
and then P. and I red smutaneousy, and she
dropped n her tracks to the dscharge. Ths was
aso a neck shot ! And agan she moved, ke the
other on, when we struck her wth a cod o
earth. The neck shot usuay means parayss,
and death nsde o ten mnutes but there s ust
the chance o a ot o troube be orehand n the
case o a savage anma.
Now came the dscusson as to whom the on
beonged. W. was put out o court as he had
mssed her, and n any case he was usng a r e
o a d erent cabre to the Mannchers empoyed
by P. and myse . We a agreed tht death had
been caused by the shot n the neck. I was
usng so t-nosed spt buets, and P.'s were so t-
nosed wthout beng spt so he and I went to
L 145
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
work on the manored esh and bone n her neck
to see what we coud nd. A ths tme I was
per ecty certan she was mne, and sad so to the
others but as there was a doubt we had our hunt
or the ata buet. A bent-up pece o ncke
was soon ound, on whch were what ooked ke the
cuts o my spt buet, so I rose to rst avourte
n the bettng ! We coud not nd anythng more,
so we took home to camp to be washed and
thoroughy searched a heap o torn esh and bone
whch had by ths tme got smothered n dust
and drt. At unch-tme P. came to me and sad
that a buet was ound nsde wth the etter
H stamped on the base, t woud be hs. Not
to be outdone I hurredy pued one o my
cartrdges to bts, and ound an H on the base
o mne aso ! At ast the ata buet turned up
wth, o course, the H ceary marked, and aso
wth the spt-cuts anty vsbe where t had not
mushroomed. However, a ter a ong dscusson
we decded to ask W.'s w e to draw the name o
the ucky owner on a sp o paper conceaed n her
hat. P. was the wnner, and, athough I sha
ca that oness mne t my dyng day, I am
hearty gad that he s the owner o the skn,
both because I had shot one here be ore, and aso
as he had con ded to me that to shoot a on
was the dream o hs e.
Uganda s too much bushed up, and too densey
covered wth orest and eephant grass over the
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greater part o ts e tent, to make t a good on
country n genera. From Fa ao, va Fatko,
Wadea, and Nmue, to Gondokoro, partcuary
the atter part and east o t, s about the pck o
the basket, and I dare say the open pans round
M'barara n the south harbour a ew ons but
there are nothng ke the numbers n Uganda
that there are a over East A rca.
In the Sudan there are ons n the Game
Reserve on the east bank o the Ne, and n the
Sanctuary ad onng t, whst down the Bahr-e-
era they are very re uenty seen on or near
the banks o the rver rom the decks o the
steamers. An o ca on an Irrgaton Depart-
ment steamer, three hours n ront o us up the
Bahr-e- era , saw two sttng on ther haunches
ke bg cats, and anded to shoot them, but had
no uck.
I ons are sad to nhabt a dstrct, you w
be practcay certan to meet them n the negh-
bourhood o arge uanttes o game, or where
the ocks and herds are most numerous.
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I
ROAN ANTELOPE
HIPFOTRAGUS E UINUS BAKERI
Sudanese : Ne
I HAVE had severa encounters wth roan
anteope, both on my ourney down the
Ne and on my way back agan. These
mght amost be regstered under the head-
ng Battes, snce the anma s very d cut
to get at, and s most tenacous o e moreover,
one res at the bggest anma n the herd n
the e pectaton that t w prove a bu, one s
very apt to nd onese bady e t wth a specmen
o the opposte se . Hence t behoves the sports-
man never to eave hs gasses behnd when out
a ter roan.
They are very arge, upstandng anteopes, and
ook one straght n the ace ke gentemen.
They have brght, red-roan coats, e ceptonay
arge or anteopes , ong, somewhat droopng
ears, wth a sma back tu t at the e tremty, and
thck, we-rnged horns sweepng backwards ke
a scke. They are met wth n thn bush country,
n company wth another smaer buck or two,
surrounded by ther harem o ten or twenty
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Roan Anteope
horned beautes. A sotary roan w be a buck,
and probaby a bg one nto the bargan.
It s reay e cessvey d cut to make out
whch s the bg buck o the herd, because the
horns o the emaes appear much arger than
they are, owng to ther thnness n comparson
wth those o the bu. I have a emae's head
now n my possesson, o whch the horns are
uy an nch shorter than those o one o my
mae heads yet, even when the two are ad sde
by sde, my statement that the atter s the smaer
head s sedom beeved. It s the thckness o
the bu's horns whch makes the ength so
deceptve.
Many are the rupee bets I've won over that
head !
On my way down the Ne, at one o the
paces where we stopped to shoot, we suddeny
e n wth an e ceptonay arge herd o roan
anteope on ther way to water, ust at the tme
when we were wonderng where to oro and what
to do ne t. The wnd was n a totay wrong
drecton, so we hasty ed to the rght, and then
worked towards the herd under cover o a seres
o stunted bushes, makng an ange wth the
course o ther approach. Havng reached a spot
about a hundred yards rom the pace where the
herd woud cross the bushes, we sat down and
wated. My rend entreated and e horted me
to get coser, as he thought there was oads o
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
tme at our dsposa be ore, the anteopes woud
appear rom behnd the ne o bush whch
separated us rom them. However, I decned
to yed, or as ther usuay uck eyesght had
aed them and gven us that advantage, I et t
woud be yng n the ace o Provdence to
attempt another move.
We had ony a bare three mnutes n whch to
recover our oss o breath when they turned up,
wth as good uck woud have t the bg buck
we n ront, sopng aong wth hs head hung
down, seemngy tred o e and ute uncon-
scous o our presence. From the sttng posture
we had assumed on arrva, bang ! went my
rend's r e, and down tumbed the buck pumb
on the spot. The remander o the herd stood
stupdy starng or a second or two whst we
strode up to photograph the anma, and goat
over a ne head whch woud eventuay adorn
hs barona has. Ths was oosh behavour
on the part o the anteope, as another bt the
dust be ore t occurred to them that we were
dangerous, and that t was hgh tme or them to
make themseves scarce.
It's good busness, you know, to success uy
crcumvent a wy den en o the unge at hs own
game o woodcra t, be he man or beast, be he
nsgn cant o stature or the mghtest o anmas
that roams at peasure the monarch o a he
surveys. There was hgh revery on the good
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, 3
g - rA:%
1
' 3 33
A BULL ROAN
A COW ROAN
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#
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,::
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#
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Roan Anteope
shp Da that evenng, as my rend had been
dstngushng hmse as a game shot. Ths was
a rght and e t too ! It a goes to show that
no anma, no matter how tenacous o e he
may be, can, when ht n the rght pace, wthstand
the tremendous smashng power o the modern
sma-bore r e.
My ne t ntroducton to roan was n the same
pace, wth the same herd, but urther o In
e panaton o ths seemng Irshsm, I may
say that roan are very shy and nervous anmas.
I you have had a bang at them a k or a mss
s mmatera pursue them voenty ne t day so
as to strke a supposed poston some two mes
down wnd rom where they were met wth be ore
and, strangey enough, you w nd the same
herd wthout a great dea o d cuty. That has
been my e perence many tmes n East A rca
and Uganda, whe at Meshra era , n the Sudan,
I came upon the same herd on three successve
days, each tme about two mes urther away
down wnd. At the thrd attempt I got my vctm
a rght.
The speca pas o that herd were tang, who
were aways more or ess m ed up wth t, ust
n the same way as top were aways cannsh wth
roan n East A rca. I don't suppose the roan
necessary suborned the tang to do sentry-go
or them, as they are ute cute enough them-
seves to dspense wth the ad o any such ow-
151
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
born brutes t was probaby a sort o mutua
protecton socety,
My best head was ony twenty- ve nches,
whch compares very un avouraby wth the enor-
mous heads that have been shot n the Sudan
but very key that was because t was not ate
enough n the season or the bg eows to be
down near the Ne. I was the rst n the ed
n 1908, and ots o game I saw ddn't mnd the
steamer n the east. Later on, when they have
been shot at a tte, they get dread uy shy.
The roan anteope s ound rom Abyssna to
ebe Achmed Aga, and thence south towards
Uganda.
I am doubt u whether the roan at Gondokoro
s the H.E. baker or ruppadus. Ths may be
the ocaty where the two races run nto one
another.
152
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#
p
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WHITE-EARED COB
CO BUS LEUCOTIS
Sudanese : Are
I WAS tod I shoud meet hm n very arge
uanttes n the Sudan, and ths proved to
be the case.
He s prepossessng to a degree. A ne
od mae, standng up back and whte amongst
hs reddsh harem, s most conspcuous. And he
knows how to show hmse o . Hs back coat
contrasts we wth hs whte bey, the whte spot
on hs chest, and the arge whte eye patches
whst the whteness o the ears, whch gves hm
hs name, causes them to appear arger than they
reay are. And then hs heavy rnged horns,
wth ther grace u backward sweep, hooked or-
ward at the tps, gve hm a very proud tout en-
sembe, especay when you see hm, as I rst dd,
n the eary mornng aganst a back burnt-up
parterre o cnders. He stands wth hs head
we up as he ooks at one not at a n the am-
ess sort o way n whch a hartebeest seems to
be ookng down hs nose.
When hs hde s pegged out to dry, a dstnct
153
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
tno-e o chestnut s vsbe where back meets
whte, and on ths account the skn s very strk-
ng, and we worth keepng.
The emae remnds one at once o the mpaah
o East A rca, and I shoud say there s very
tte d erence between her and the emae
Uganda cob, nether carryng any horns. Bar-
rng hs coour, ths cob s practcay the same
anma as the Uganda speces, but s not met
wth t some ve hundred mes urther north o
where the ranore o ths atter ends.
Whte-eared cob are met wth n herds o rom
ten to orty perhaps n the atter case the bg
buck has usuay rom three to our younger ones
to hep hm n keepng order amongst the more
unruy members. These other bucks w be very
much ghter n coour, as t s ony the very od
ones who are amost totay back on the back.
I shoud not g ve them credt or beno un-
usuay cute, as on the two or three occasons I
made ther cose ac uantance I was abe to get
up ary near. They seem to a ect the pro mty
o water rather more than do the Uganda cob,
and, I shoud say, must be hunted or near t.
Durng my shootng trp on the Ne I came
across the whte-eared cob at ebe Achmet Aga
n the north, where the o cers' game reserve
starts, thence a the way up aong the Whte
Ne to Lake No on the e t bank. On the
Bahr-e- era t occurs n e ceptonay arge
154
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#
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, ' 1 ,
, .5
, ' '
. ' 3 ' 1
V
WHITE-EARED COB
W'
r
k
*
HANG
see page b
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#
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#
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whte-eared Cob
uanttes, but how ar down the Whte Ne or
Bahr-e- ebe t e tends I coud not ascertan,
owng to the ntermnabe sudd swamps whch
stretch on ether hand beyond the power o
human vson.
Twenty-one to twenty-two nches s a ar
average head.
1 55
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#
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I
THE BAHR-EL- ERAF
I MADE the ac uantance o the Bahr-e-
era n the good shp Skabuka, otherwse
known as the greyhound o the era
She s a gunboat a stern- wheeer, as a
the od-patterned boats are and was rst used
n the od days n the varous ghts aganst the
Dervsh hordes that took pace urther down the
rver. She gets aong to some purpose, athough
at any moment she may begn to pant, poor dear
thng, as she was breathng her ast gasp
be ore gong to the bottom.
We, I was proceedng up the rver a ter the
week spent n shootng at Meshra era whch
s on the man stream, and nowhere near the
Bahr-e- era oowng hard a ter a etter o
ntroducton whch had been despatched to her
owner, Mr. Struv o the Sudan Cv Servce,
askng hm he coud gve me any assstance n
the shootng ne, and a trp on hs boat he
happened to be payng a vst to the Bahr-e-
era . I had not heard whether he had receved
my etter or not, so on roundng the bend o the
Ne near Tau ka n the gunboat I had been
ent at Kodok, I was somewhat dsconcerted to
156
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#
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The Bahr-e- era
see the Shabuka ust backng out rom the and-
ng-pace. A ew basts on the steam whste
attracted her attenton, and she ted up once
more, as we had her owner's mas on board.
Mr. Struve was on the pont o eavng or hs
temporary staton, Khor Attar, so I was most
ortunate n catchng hs boat ust as she had got
under wegh.
I can magne nothng ncer or a honeymoon
coupe on a shootng trp down the Ne than
a trp on ths boat. ou steam where you w,
you te up when t suts you, there s room on the
deck or two beds wthout overcrowdng outsde
the ndspensabe meat-sa e, whch s aso a
com ortabe room or two. By the same token,
ths meat-sa e s one o the most use u nven-
tons o modern tmes pecuar to the Ne and
the steamers thereon. It s nothng ess than a
mos uto-proo house. Wthout ths one su ers
the tortures o the damned.
Every shp has one, and each staton aong the
banks o the rver owns severa, as much to keep
the mos utoes rom btng one as to prevent bugs
and es rom tumbng nto one's ood. Besdes
ths, the Shabhka has a nce com ortabe bg
cabn wth ots o room or two to dress n and
escape the cy basts o anuary. It can be very
chy ndeed on the Ne when the north wnd s
swtched on at ths tme o the year.
A ter thrty- ve mes' steamng west o Tau-
57
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
ka, we reach the Bahr-e- era , not a rver
as t appears to be, but the Coaca Ma ma, or
man dran, o the whoe sudd dstrct, owng
north. Ths s the route that Sr Samue Baker
pursued when he rst steamed up to Gondokoro
though what s known as Baker's Passage,
rght up at the south end o the sudd, where he
cut hs way through, s now sted up and choked
wth the dense masses that have ormed ong
snce across t at ts outet nto the Whte Ne.
Ths a uent s about orty yards wde, wth a
arsh current. Durng our voyage on t we
much en oyed the spendd e ect whch the dyng
gow o the sun, the varegated tnts o the
evenng, and the pae ght o the moon, produced
on the dark water over whch we gded under
the shadow o dark papyrus was.
We panted and pu ed sowy but steady up
the stream. Our pan was to steam up to the
rst wood staton, and whst we took ue on
board, I was to say orth and shoot. We hadn't
overmuch tme to cut to waste, as my host had to
be back on a certan date, and I had my Gondo-
koro boat to catch.
I anded n a thorn orest, very dense and thck,
on the western bank, and a ter a short trek came
across waterbuck. By dnt o a care u stak
much peerng between the tree trunks and under
the ow spreadng branches was necessary to ds-
tngush the buck rom amdst the herd o emaes ,
158
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#
p
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The Bahr-e- era
I managed to secure an od buck wth nce
twenty-nne-nch horns. Nothng out o the way,
but a head worth keepng. Immedatey a ter-
wards I saw another, beongng to a d erent
herd, whch was on the move, started at the
report o my shot. He was rather bgger than
the rst, I ancy, but I wasn't out to decmate the
speces, and I ddn't want more than one uness
the second shoud prove to be a whacker, so I
et hm o to ght another day,
Shordy a ter ths we started down stream.
The rver scenery contnued much ke that
prevousy descrbed. Wde stretches o oatng
tur edged the papyrus growth. On the and
ggantc prmeva trees were so thcky nterwoven
wth cmbng pants that they presented a ront
o smooth oage. Wthout an a e t s hard to
penetrate these woods and they are haunted by
ons and eopards and beaut uy marked
pythons.
In an hour or two the orest became thnner,
aowng o a vew o herds o game waterbuck
che y n the gades and cearngs between the
mass o trees and the rver. Then or ten mes
or so, as we dropped down stream, I have
sedom seen such a sght o anma e, e ceptng
on the Ath pans n East A rca, rom the
carrages o the Uganda raway. The banks
were ary st wth waterbuck, rom the od
veterans, scarred, and bearng the marks o many
159
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#
p
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u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
a ght on ther shaggy coats, to the Htte tots ust
abe to stagger aong or a ew yards. That regon
came a very good second to the Ath pans, but
n the atter you see heaps o d erent varetes.
We were on the ook out or tang, o whch
there are numbers n ths ocaty, but none had
the decency to appear.
Then a ter tea, when the bush and orest and
came to an end, we entered the whte-eared cob
country a and o at, grassy pans, wth a tny
bush here and there amdst the numerous red
ant-hs that break at ntervas the smoothness
between the shaow, swampy khors that wnd
nand rom the rver every me or so.
The countrysde was dotted wth arger or
smaer herds o ths beaut u anteope. None
o them seemed to ob ect n the east to the nose
o the steamer. They woud even turn round
and stare at t unconcernedy. They' te you a
d erent tae though as the shootng season draws
to a cose ! When they have been contnuay
shot at by partes andng rom every successve
steamer and boat, you won't see ther hees or
dust. And no boomng oos they !
I managed to secure a rea od one, wth a
beaut u back skn, but the head was not worth
keepng, as he was so od that the horns had got
worn down and stumpy. I anded we beow
hm at a sutabe spot. He aowed me to get
ute cose to hm, gong on eedng a the tme
6o
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s
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#
p
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' -.
3 , 3 V 3 3
3 3 3 3
1
SUDD BANKS ON THE BAHR-EI.- ERAF
#
.,' .
tc-
4' V * -**.
AT THE TOP OF THE , . /I.KAI.'
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#
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s
_
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#
p
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s
The Bahr-e- era
I was stakng hm. When I thought he
must soon hear me and trot o , I emtted a
shr whste whch brought hs head up rom the
grass he was gra ng on, and he stood ong
enough or the shot to take e ect. He was un-
usuay con dng, as the act o the steamer
havng stopped so near usuay startes a herd
and puts t on the move.
It was neary dark when we pued up a second
tme to enabe me to get another shot rom the
bank, so that n ten mnutes I coudn't see the
oresght propery, wth the resut that I had to
gve t up a ter two or three shockng msses.
A ter steamng on throughout the nght, we
woke up ne t mornng to nd, starng us n the
ace ve mes o eastwards, the three rocky hs
caed ebe era . We had made up our mnds
to and and e pore these hs n the hopes o
ndng roan anteope round the base. I am
credby n ormed that ths s a good ocaty or
bg roan but aas! our hopes were dashed, and we
were doomed to dsappontment. Two thngs
we saw, however, were some ostrches and a herd
o gra e. We ddn't want to harm them more-
over, the atter are o the st o anmas that
can be shot, beng strcty preserved, so we et
them oop o nto anced securty, where they
stood swayng ther great bugy-ookng necks to
and ro or a the word ke the prehstorc peeps
they are.
M 6
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#
p
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
The hs are a mass o ped-up grante bou-
ders, tenanted by arge ocks o gunea- ow,
mons o bats, and an enormous warrena ard
now, I ear, no more ! I ht hm very bady
ndeed, and he ay stretched out or dead, t, such
s the vtaty o these creatures, the nose o our
approachng ootsteps apparenty mpeed hm
to seek re uge n a hoe n the rocks, rom whch
our unted e orts, ncudng those o two usty
Sudanese soders haung at hs ta, coud not
dsodge hm.
When on top o the h we became aware o
an e traordnary s ueakng sound, and a ter
pokng about neary e nto a wde crevce n
the rocks n whch bats were packed ke sardnes.
The pace ooked ke a game arder a ter a bg
battte. It was teray stu ed wth bats hang-
ng on by ther eyeds to the roughnesses and
rreguartes o the rock. A stone thrown down
sent them a o n a coud, ke so many ocusts,
strrng up ute a bree e wth ther utterng
wngs. They were soon drven back to ther
rocky astness by orce o crcumstances n the
shape o countess wheeng ktes and hawks.
It's an wnd, etc. the atter doubtess had a
good mea that day.
Back to our oatng haven o re uge we tramped,
unsuccess u as regards our shoot, across the
part-cooured pan, now green, now back, ac-
cordng as the grass had been burnt or not,
162
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#
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The Bahr-e- era
pursued by a bevy o bee-eaters, catchng the
es and nsects we kcked up on our way.
Once on board the ugger, and my rend
surprsed me by sayng that he coud stand my
company or another two days, whch meant that
he was abe to a ord hmse two e tra days'
eave o absence to go and vst some more
vages n ths neghbourhood. Over oyed wth
my good uck n thus beng enabed, wth hs
assstance, to have a urther try or game through
the medum o the steamer, we panned a cam-
pagn to be drected aganst Mrs. Gray's water-
buck.
Athough I had never set eyes on a vng
specmen o ths superb anma, I trust I may be
pardoned or gvng such descrpton o hmse
and hs habts as es n my power.
Ths was the ony beast that the hon. member
or Khor Attar's reputaton dwnded under! I
must make amends or ths statement, however,
and put n a good word or hm, as he took me to
a the we-known ancy paces n whch Mrs. Gray
s key to be ound to a hs own speca
preserves, on hs own speca gunboat n short,
he dd me top hoe and the way he and I
sweated and saved or even a sght o the whte
spot on the wthers the sgn-manua o ths eusve
buck reay deserves a menton n despatches.
We ondy hoped to nd her wth her arms out-
stretched to take us n ! She dd the atter a
163
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#
p
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
rght, as nether horn nor hoo dd we set eyes
on n act, she was not at home !
The buck s sad to be about the same s e
as the whte-eared cob, but has not so many
whte markngs about hm he has, nevertheess,
a arge whte spot on the top o hs wthers. He
possesses very ong spreadng horns, whch he
carres roht down on hs back when he bounds
away n aarm hs nose n conse uence stcks up
hgh n the ar.
It s sad that there s no known d erence n
appearance and coourng between the emae
Mrs. Gray and the emae whte-eared cob. But
ths statement needs con rmaton.
Snce ony one specmen o Mrs. Gray's water-
buck s aowed to be shot on one cence, and as
there ore everybody naturay shoots a buck or
hs superb trophy, surey, n the nterests o
scence, someone shoud be gven permsson
to shoot two as a speca case a doe as we
as a buck out o the same herd, so as to prevent
con uson, n order to have the emae propery
descrbed. O ten and o ten, when the herd s
sghted, the buck w be yng down, as s the
custom wth a varetes o cobus, and t s ony
the emae one sees to udge by. No one whom
I have approached on the sub ect and some
o those I have asked ought to know can
d erentate between the two does e cept to say
that o the two Mrs. Gray's waterbuck has ess
164
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#
p
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The Bahr-e- era
har near the hoo but as that part o the anma
cannot be dstngushed, even wth the ad o
gasses, n the grass, the aeged d erence doesn't
hep one much. I am aso ed to beeve that
n every herd there are oads o emaes to one or
perhaps two maes, so that possby at east three
responsbe peope mght be accorded the necessary
permsson to shoot a doe apece.
We, we traveed up and down Lake No n
the ba ng sunshne, seated on the roo o my
rend's gunboat n order to attan a great enough
eevaton to see over the reeds, regardess o
sparks and smuts rom the poor pantng unne,
wth our eyes gued to our gasses whst every
now and then the remark By Gad ! or some-
thng stronger, to wt, Great Scott ! woud
gve an outet to our eengs on dscoverng two
or three red does standng up n the grass, sun-
dred or burnt by prare res, as the case
mght be.
Then woud come the agon ed ueston,
Where can we and In ths part o the
word a s swamp and muck, and t s ony very
occasonay ndeed that a meshra or andng-
pace on rm, back-cotton so can be ound.
These meshras are ke oases n the desert.
Even a ter andng at one o them, there are
certan to be at east ha a do en khors wet
watercourses, the water n most o them wast-
deep to be negotated, be ore one comes wthn
165
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#
p
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
convenent stakng dstance o the supposed
Mrs. Gray, whch, horrbe dctu, n our case,
nvaraby turned out to be emae whte-eared
cob.
Regousy we sat on the roo throughout the
veong day, and as regousy dsappeared n a
coud o back dust n pursut, but we were aways
doomed to dsappontment.
Now the rea reason o my ack o success
was ths : my attempt was made much too eary
n the year. I am tod that ths speces o water-
buck does not come down to the Ne t a the
water nand s dred up that s to say, about
Apr. Hence the utty o any search on the
rver bank n the second week n anuary.
Ths beng so, I beg to ac ut the hon. mem-
ber, wthout a stan on hs un aggng energes,
rom the charge that one part o hs e ceent
programme ddn't come o , owng, et t be
supposed, to the pubs wth drnk to be con-
sumed on the premses beng open esewhere !
Otherwse hs entertanment was up to concert
ptch, and on a other ponts I am prepared to
prase t sky-hgh n unmeasured terms.
I'm a rad my taes have rather e t ther sheep
behnd them, or the other way on, but I reay
know very tte about the cke ade, as I am
dsposed to ca the anma n ueston, e cept
that the non-attanment o my ob ect gves me
addtona est to revst that part o the Sudan.
1 66
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#
p
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The Bahr-e- era
We, a ter two days o steamng and trampng
and steamng agan, we ound ourseves once
more at Khor Attar, my host's sem-permanent
staton and whst he bused hmse n preparng
hs mues and stores or a short ourney through
hs dstrct, I amused myse shootng gunea-
ow and a rather nce orb.
That evenng we got up steam agan or a
short two mes up ths shaow khor. The water
was very ow, and the channe had changed wth
the contnua stng up o the mud, conse uenty
we ran aground on severa sandbanks be ore we
anchored or the nght, but wth no dre u resuts
t ne t mornng. A hurrcane had started n
the nght, and athough we had taken a pre-
cauton, and had moored our stern we out rom
the bank wth a coupe o anchors, we ound n
the mornng that they had dragged, and that the
steamer was stuck, hard and ast, abeam on a ee
shore.
T the wnd dropped t was no use dong
anythng e cept get out a ew more anchors,
whch we dd. I had to get back to Tau ka to
catch the Gondokoro boat, and began to grow
desperate about noon. Eventuay, a ter a great
dea o rea hard work, the sturdy eows got us
a oat, and when we turned the bend nto the
open Ne, there was my boat, the good shp
Amara, steamng up about a me away.
It was ust touch and go. She was a cay
167
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
ahead o her tme, and t was sheer good uck
my catchng her. I I hadn't I shoud have been
a month ate not through my aut, t s true
but what woud the powers that be have sad on
my return Thus t came to pass that I e t the
Shabuka n as great a hurry as I embarked on
her.
I had a top-hoe tme n the shp, and I'
board her agan as soon as her owner s knd
enough to ask me. I hope that on some uture
occason we sha have the good uck to carry
through our orgna scheme devsed or the un-
dong o a Mrs. Gray's waterbuck.
1 68
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#
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II
TIANG
DAMALISCUS TIANG
Sudan : Bur
THIS s an amost e act counterpart o
my od rend the top o East A rcan
ame. The top s aso to be ound
n Uganda n certan dstrcts, so that
where the top proper merges nto the tang o
attude ten degrees on the Whte Ne I do not
know.
The tang s red- awn n coour wth purpsh
brndes and patches on the ore-arm and thghs.
It s very cosey reated to the hartebeest,
havng the same ungany appearance and the
same ong ace. The horns are yre-shaped and
heavy rnged, and the head s bgger than that
o the top, over twenty-three nches beng ony
sghty above the genera average.
O a the anmas d cut o approach, rom
a stakng pont o vew, that I have met I thnk
the tang easy takes the cake. The rst herd
o tang that I saw numbered about orty ndv-
duas, and though I s urmed about through
burnt grass, gettng practcay coa-back a over
169
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
or my pans, not a sgn o them dd I see when
I rst dared to ook up rom the cover o a bush
some two hundred yards dstant rom where they
had been eedng. They had apparenty ds-
appeared nto thn ar. My orderes knew me
we enough to keep out o sght, so t coudn't
have been ther aut.
The ne t tang I saw was a sngeton, more than
three- uarters o a me away. I thought t was
no use begnnng to stak be ore I had reached
a good patch o bush another our hundred yards
on, as t was ony wth the ad o gasses that I
had made hm out at a. Imagne my dsgust
when a ter movng ony twenty yards rather
across hm I admt he boted ke a shot I
never set eyes on hm agan that day. Ths put
me so much on my mette to secure a specmen
that I gave up a dea o bu ao, wth whch the
pace crawed, as I had shot them be ore ese-
where, and devoted a my tme and energes to
tang. I was doomed to dsappontment there,
and departed much ncensed aganst the wy
beast, and vowng vengeance aganst any o hs
can that I mght meet n the herea ter. How-
ever, a kndy ate served me ater.
Tang are wder n the Sudan than ther
cousns n Uo anda because there s ess cover n
the ormer than n the bush and o the atter
country. But to whatever branch o the genus
they may beong, a herd o tang never sette
170
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#
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Tang
themseves to eed wthout rst postng a sentne
on some hgh spot, usuay an ant-heap, whence
he can command a good vew over the surround-
ng country. Ths sentne never eeds or pays
when he s on duty, but standng erect and
motoness and ookng somewhat ungany, he
sn s the bree e ncessanty and scans the pans
n search o a possbe enemy. As soon as
danger o any sort s suspected he warns the
remander o the herd by a stamp on the ground
and a oud snee e. At ths sgna up goes every
head, every ear s prcked, every sharp eye scans
the grass and bushes on a sdes, every nostr s
dstended, sn ng or the sghtest tant on the
bree e.
A ter ths sgna s gven, e uet as on the
smaest mstake o showng yourse or aowng
a tang to catch sght o the gnt o your r e
barre, good-bye to any chance o gettng a shot
at that herd. Immedatey the whoe amy,
awkward and anguar though they ook when at
rest, are o n a ong grace u swngng gaop,
whch enabes them to cover the ground ar
ucker than seems at rst possbe and they
w contnue ther cht or some dstance. I
they shoud meet a bet o bush on ther way,
don't make the mstake o ookng or them n t,
as they w have passed rght through, and w
be ound we out on the open pan. But t s o
tte use pursung a started herd.
171
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#
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III
BUSHBUCK
TRAGELAPHUS SCRIPT US BOR
TRAGELAPHUS SCRIPTUS DECULA
Sudanese : Abenaber
Bar: Cabo
FOR a ong tme I beeved that the bush-
buck was con ned to the hs. So he
s to a great e tent, but by no means
entrey.
Let me now reate how I stoe a march on my
companons on my return ourney up the Ne to
Uganda. We arranged one evenng to stop and
shoot ne t day at Game a, where we were gong
to take wood on board. Ne t mornng I woke up
to nd that the boat had stopped, and on seeng
my companons ast aseep, I uety hurred on
my cothes and spped o to get ahead o them
as some our or ve peope trampng round the
countrysde, oosng o rght and e t, spes no
sport or anyone.
Imagne my surprse when the skpper sad
we were ust o or Game a, that the pace
where we then were was not Game a, as I had
thought, but Mak Bor, a msson staton. Not
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#
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Bushbuck
to be outdone, I remarked, wth a wnk, that the
captan hadn't seen me, and wthout more ado
boted or the unge. The resut was a nce
bushbuck, and on my return endsh and aw u
curses rom the others, who I knew coudn't
contnue the ourney t I had boarded the boat
agan.
Now ths took pace n absoutey at country
wth not a vestge o a mound, eave aone a
h and yet the pace teemed wth bushbuck,
as was concusvey proved by my seeng two
bucks and ve does n the short two hours I was
out that mornng. We started on at, sun-dred
ground wth not a vestge o grass, threadng our
way across country n and between the thorn
bushes. A short way rom the rver-bank, where
the grass was thcker, we saw and et o a herd
o waterbuck wth a sma head n t. Then,
ha a me or so urther on, I et a voent poke
p the back on ookng round I ound my
ordery, as st as a ramrod, sowy handng me
my r e, starng edy nto the grass. It mght
have been an eephant, udgng by the ook on hs
ace, but then he knew I was especay an ous
to get a bushbuck. It was no good, however,
as the bushbuck was o ke a ash, havne
spotted us ong be ore I was ready. A short
dstance urther and t was tme to return to the
steamer, so sweepng round towards the Ne we
shaped our course or home. Then we tumbed
73
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
n amongst the bushbuck. Frst two does ed
across our ront, but they had evdenty e t ther
mate aseep n a bush as we saw no sgns o
hm then three does appeared wth the buck eed-
ng towards us n ther rear. When he was cose
enough I et hm have t, but ht hm rather ar
back as he eapt nto the ar and sprang behnd
a thcket, whst the others stood st and stared
about, evdenty wth not the sghtest knowedge
o my whereabouts. A sudden report oowed
by dead sence o ten produces ths e ect t s,
there ore, aways hghy advsabe to st tght
a ter a shot to see how the and es be ore
movng rom one's pace o conceament. In
ths case, the buck was st behnd hs bush so, n
order to try and get the does uety away wthout
aarmng hm, we whsted two or three tmes.
When they had dsappeared I advanced upon the
hdden anma, who sprang up rom where he
had been yng n the bush, bady ht, and gave
me an easy shot at cose uarters.
Very pretty, strkng tte beasts are these
yeowsh red to ute dark red n coour, wth
whte strng-marks runnng vertcay and hor on-
tay aong ther ore uarters and rbs, spotted
over the ons and behnd. They vary tremen-
dousy both n ther coour and n ther markngs.
They have a curous knd o mane a down the
back, darker than the remander o the coat, and
ther hnd uarters are ute shaggy n appear-
174
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#
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Bushbuck
ance. The emaes are ghter n genera coour
than the mae, both n the '' bor'' and n the
'' deaca races, and they carry no horns.
There s a strange and erroneous dea rmy
mpressed n the mnds o many peope n
Uganda that there s a certan knd o anma
caed the harnessed anteope whch s ute
dstnct rom the bushbuck. When one o
these persons s asked to e pan the d erence,
he repes that the two are very much ake
and on beng urther pressed, he admts that he
knows o no dssmarty between them. The
truth s that n South A rca, and on the West
Coast, where varous speces o bushbuck aso e st
n arge uanttes, the generc name harnessed
anteope was bestowed upon the ot and on
the occason o ther orgna dscovery on the
East Coast, they were a abeed harnessed
anteope by the books bearng on the sub ect.
The Eastern and Western orms are both one
and the same anma, Trageaphus scrptus, whch
s n Engsh harnessed anteope, or, as we ca
t, bushbuck. They a beong to the same
cass as the kudus, and a wear strng-marks,
more or ess ceary de ned, n ths part o the
word. In the Uganda regon the Ne and
Abyssnan races meet one another, hence the
d erences seen between varous ndvduas
wthn orty mes o one another. I have seen
the yeowsh knd, and a very much redder one,
175
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
each wth hs coupe o does as usua, whch n
both cases were practcay o the same hue,
much ghter than that o ther ords and masters.
Bushbuck are most wary and d cut o
approach, and one has to keep one's eyes we
sknned and remarkaby wde open to crcumvent
the brutes. It s a very good thng when one s
n good bushbuck country to carry a r e one-
se contnuay, as many a shot can be obtaned
between the bushes and grass, that s not possbe
when one has to snatch the r e out o the gun-
bearer's hands.
A very good pan when out a ter bushbuck n
hy country about 9 a.m., s to wak uety aong
round the h at a heght o about two or three
hundred eet above the pan, and at the same
tme to send a man, aong the pan beov you, ust
at the oot o the h, to make, not a ear u row,
but a good catter. Bushbuck ahvays run uph
at a tremendous pace, so you w have the doube
chance o seeng what s round you, and havng
those n the grass at the bottom drven up to
you, and your uarry w most probaby be
urkng n the grass.
I you see a bushbuck and make up your
mnd to stak hm, take every care and be sure
to nsh your stak we out. Ony yesterday
I made the od mstake o not dong ths, because
two young waterbuck got up not ten yards rom
where I had marked the bushbuck down. I
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#
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Bushbuck
made certan the atter woudn't be there as the
waterbuck went o wth a crash and a rush so
I stopped and shouted or my ordery, whom I
had e t some way behnd, and, n act, made
the deuce o a row, be ore proceedng to wak
about to see there were any sgns o the bush-
buck dsappearng. ute ve mnutes a ter the
man had arrved, whe we were dscussng what
to do ne t, the bushbuck boted out o the very
bush he had orgnay been standng near, and
besde whch we had been sttng down takng.
I ost hm, as I had ad my r e down on the
ground, and had my gasses out. Bushbuck are
very shy and tmd ndeed, and probaby that one
had been so rghtened at my sudden and cose
approach, that he had an doggoh n the
bush, sweatng bood wth unk.
There s, o course, n orest country the od
game o gong out n the evenng or an hour or
so, and sttng down uety to admre nature, as
we as to wat or a bushbuck to come aong,
but that has been descrbed esewhere.
ute recenty a rend o mne returned to
Bombo, the head- uarters o the Kng's A rcan
R es, near Kampaa n Uganda, wth hs
company rom detachment, n the Homa dstrct,
brngng n wth hm, amongst other trophes, the
heads o three bushbuck whch he had shot.
Ther horns are a abnormay thck, and a o a
un orm ength more or ess over y nches,
N 177
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_
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#
p
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
Two o these bushbuck were shot on the
escarpment overhangng Lake Abert near a
pace caed Tono, and the other at another
pace some s ty mes away nearer Bombo, on
the banks o the Myan a rver. Ther skns are
very ght n coour, wth the strng-marks scarcey
showng. Are they the bor'' o the Ne, or the
'' decta''' o Abyssna Or s t that the good
eedng that they obtan n ths part o the word
enabes them to deveop ner horns, even as the
we- ed Unyoro eephant carres more massve
tusks than the eephant ound n the vcnty
o the Semk rver But the ueston s,
What are they In ether case my rend has got
some records, as I never saw such massve heads,
but t does not seem possbe to cass them under
ether sub-speces. And there are penty more
n those dstrcts watng to be shot by the
ntendng vstor !
I append a photograph o the heads and skns
o two o these bg eows, shown aganst a
29-nch whte rhno horn, to gve an dea o
ther ength and thckness aso a photograph o
bushbuck I shot at Bor on the Ne.
178
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#
p
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3 3
C 3
1
'
3
''
'U''

KUSHBUCK

'A
'V/
*r *
vHB * *' -4 '
*'
TWO BUSHBUCK HEADS AND A WHOLE RHINO HORN
77/ 7 //cr appears to be saUer than t reay s, as t s some tte dstance
behnd the heads
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#
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C c c c
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#
p
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IV
BACK TO UGANDA
A FTER eavng Bor, where I had anded
/% and kept everybody watng whst n
/ % pursut o a bushbuck, as be ore de-
scrbed, the post boat contnued ts
weary way southwards towards Uganda. At
ntervas a ew thorn trees reared ther spny
stems rom behnd the matted bank o reeds and
burush, entwned wth purpe convovuus that
rnged the rver as t turned and twsted n ths
ow-yng country.
ust be ore roundng a certan bend, we had
been warned by the engneer to keep a sharp
ook out, as some sandbanks n ront o us were a
avourte haunt o hppos, a spot on whch they
used to bask n the noonday sun. Sure enough
we came upon a arge herd, od and young o a
ages, yng about we out o the water, warmng
themseves on a sandbank on one sde o the
rver. Some thrty yards urther away was another
smary stuated sandbank tenanted by do ens
o crocodes, aso per ormng the same speces o
hard abour. The atter were the rst to take
aarm, as some were ha n and ha out o the
water seepng, as usua, wth one eye open and
thus the beat o the bg whee was conducted to
179
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
them by the vbraton o the water. They sd
uety nto the ud eement. The hppos dd
not take aarm t some seconds ater when they
dd the sur ace o the water was suddeny trans-
ormed rom a pacd even pane to waves and
spray by the rushng shapes and unwedy buk
o these enormous creatures. Be ore dashng
pe-me nto the depths o the poo, one or two o
the younger ones paused to stare open-mouthed
at our dread u apparton. One hppo came up
out o the water a mere yard rom the bows o the
boat, snkng agan so hurredy n hs dsmay at
beng neary run down, that he must amost have
been choked.
That day was u o ncdent. Herds o
anteope were seen on ether bank, as the grass
and rver growth had been burnt n paces or had
rotted away t t was ute short.
An hour or so urther on, a sudden trumpet o
aarm caused a rush to the sde o the vesse,
whence we saw a herd o s eephants tearng
aong n ront. The bree e was rom behnd us,
so our smoke was bown amongst them. They
kept aong the bank or some our mes, aways
ust ahead o us, gong at a very ast shambe,
crashng through the hgh grass and bushes as
they weren't there to mpede ther progress. Why
the herd ddn't make o nto the depths o the
unge was not evdent. Perhaps to do so was
mpossbe owng to swamps and mud but at
1 80
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#
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Back to Uganda
any rate the eephants a orded us an amusng
spectace astng or neary an hour. Then they
got tred, presumaby, and, trumpetng oudy, ay
up n a cump o very hgh grass. We coud
ust see the bu's tusks turned n our drecton to
sa eguard hs wves and tte ones rom the ear-
some ob ect ast approachng hm, enveoped n
a coud o oy smoke. Nothng happened, how-
ever. He dd not try concusons wth the
steamer. He was not a bg eow, and the bank
was swampy and un t to and upon, so we passed
on our way.
That practcay brought us to Gondokoro, and
another hundred mes o marchng.
The country was by ths tme pretty dry, and
the water aong our od road was nade uate or
our wants, and besdes was ony to be had by
dggng so I decded to do ths march to Nmue
by the Ne road whch I had not seen be ore,
and where I was assured there woud be penty
o ood or the porters. Moreover, I had penty
o tme to reach Nmue be ore the steam-aunch
came. We were ampy rewarded or ths dver-
gence o route by the scenery we passed through
durng the ast porton.
At rst we marched aong the ow ground,
cuttng across smaer streams and makng ong
and rather tedous detours round the swamps.
The grass was a burnt at ths tme o the year by
the sun or by the res ghted on purpose by the
8
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
natves che y by the atter. Through the
ashes the resh young shoots were aready
makng ther way. Outcrops o rocky grante
rdges were very re uent. The Ne was
never more than a me or so dstant rom our
narrow track, caed by courtesy a road, and
the Uganda bank or the most part s heavy
cutvated, n great contrast to the Congo
bank. I dd not see a head o game or some
teen mes, but ood there was n penty, both
or master and or man. Gunea- ow as we as
partrdges ormed the peces de resstance or the
dnner-tabe and there were ots o resh eggs
and ashngs o mk or break ast. The natves
a aong here are most knd and hosptabe,
aways brngng what one wants, o ten wthout
beng asked to do so. And they congregated
round the camp res o an evenng gad to hear
the news rom the outsde word.
We e t Re a h behnd on the e t bank
and camped on the Kt rver, usuay a great
resort o game at ths season but owng to many
brother o cers rom Gondokoro havng spent a
ew days' eave shootng n the neghbourhood,
most o the anmas had dsappeared n avour o
a ueter haunt.
As we advanced the character o the country
began to ater. More bushes and more trees
appeared the rdges showed sgns o deveopng
nto hs, and then the bue msty outnes o moun-
182
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#
p
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Back to Uganda
tans became anty vsbe ar away southwards.
In hush o the evenng we heard a re uent mur-
mur o waters whch meant shaows on the rver,
not rapds. An orb or two ormed a wecome
addton to the arder. We passed severa vages
on ether sde o the path, a ookng ary pros-
perous, surrounded as they were by ther green
patches o cutvaton. We ptched our camp
near one o these n a beaut u spot, where a ne
khor rnged wth tropca vegetaton ows aong
the bottom o a wde meadow-ke cearng,
covered wth short succuent grass and adorned
wth handsome coossa g-trees, tamarnds, and
due pams. Cose besde the vage, whch
nestes among the crags, there s a rocky rdge.
Bananas are scarce here evdenty the so
does not sut them. Tobacco, however, smsm,
and even a tte cotton are grown. A at od
man, named Kurs, s the paramount che o ths
dstrct, and he amost e over hmse n hs
rantc endeavours to show us hosptaty.
One o our marches was remarkabe or an
awkward though udcrous contretemps. The
march had not been a ong one, nor was there
much water on the road, so I e pected the
porters to arrve very shorty a ter I dd. When
we had been some tme at the hatng-pace wth-
out ther puttng n an appearance, I began to
wonder what had happened. At ast a man
arrved wth hs bo on hs head, and on beng
183
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
uestoned reped n a monosyabe, Nyuk
bees . Ths e paned the whoe thng, and
soon a dsorgan ed and demora ed mob shu ed
nto camp n twos and threes. Eyes were
bunged up, noses twce ther usua s e, and
ps thckened to an appang degree even or
a negro, and the possessors o the swoen organs
were a n a beasty bad temper. Ther story
was that a arge swarm o bees had been annoyed
by the sngng o the porters they o ten chant
n chorus to begue the march and had de-
scended upon them tooth and na, gong straght
or the aces o the men, who, wthout a moment's
hestaton, threw ther bo es to the ground and
bounded o nto the ong grass and thence nto
the rver. Then the bees, not havng taken
the troube to pursue them very ar, proceeded to
swarm a over the abandoned oads, so that,
on anyone approachng them, the nsects were
up n arms agan and ready or another engage-
ment. No one knew what to do, t a man
who had been n these parts be ore advocated
an attack wth re. Armed wth burnng bundes
o dred grass the porters made a determned
charge on the wnged pests, wth the resut that
the nsect army was competey de eated wth
heavy oss. I have heard o two other e acty sm-
ar cases n whch bees took charge o the oads
and coud ony be beaten o wth re. Bees are
e ceedngy bad tempered routed out o ther
nests, and very persstent n ther attacks.
184
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#
p
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, , 5 1
O '
,'- ' '-. 5 5 3
3
3,3 3'
3 3 , 3-1
3 ' 3 3 3 3
' 3 3- , 3 , ,
' ' ' S '3 3 '3
THE WATER LA KNEE DEEP UPON THE LEVEL PLAIN
A FKEOUENT MURMUR OF WA'ERS
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#
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G
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The ongest march on ths road s to Keny's
rom the north. The road rses and as through
rocky grass country very much cut up by rocky
ravnes wth poos o water n them. The track
here keeps on an average about two mes dstant
rom the Ne, and we camped some our mes
rom Bager H, whch was to the east and
between us and our od road.
Thence onwards the road s st good, but
goes up and down over a rugged country, n whch
stony ground aternates wth cutvaton. There
does not seem to be very much to shoot n ths
dstrct t one reaches the neghbourhood o the
Karpetta rver. Takng a stro aong the pre-
cptous sandy banks o ths stream, I came
suddeny on a beaut u eopard, sttng up ke
a cat on hs haunches, bnkng at the sun. ust
at that moment, however, a ock o gunea- ow
took t nto ther heads to y away wth a tre-
mendous catter. Ths sgna naturay attracted
the eopard's attenton, and he was o be ore I
coud get a shot at hm.
The hs and mountans now began to make
themseves very much more en Evdence, not
actuay et, as the road became steeper and more
hy. Pok H ay to our e t, and the dome-ke
crest o Akko Mountan oomed n ront, where
the Ne rages and roars n the chasm between t
and the great Congo escarpment. As on the
prevous march, the path wound about dread uy,
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beng apparenty the hgh road or a the vages
n ths part o the word, n that t seems to pass
through most o them. At any rate, at the end
o the day's march we had been gong a ong
tme and et ary tred, but we dd not seem to
have got very much orrarder, udgng by the
bearngs o the varous andmarks, but we had
descended rom the rather hoher p round three or
our mes eastward o the Ne to where the Uma
rver runs nto t. Here I spent two ute good
sportng days watng or news o eephant, whch,
aas ! never came. I managed to secure a nce
hppo on the rst day, and saw hm cut up and
sa ey n camp, whch was sats actory, as so
many dr t down the rapds and get ost. The
mornng a ter two orb and a good waterbuck
wth a 33-nch head were bagged.
The country on the Uganda sde o the rver
was nhabted years ago by a race o men who
ved n s uare stone houses and cutvated the
and argey, udgng by remans o ther gardens,
whch were but or mes aong the sope
ookng over the rver, and n a the steeper
parts ormed terraces ke the h cutvaton n
Inda. The che s n these parts are very nce,
hosptabe od men, knder than ever when they
are stmuated wth thoughts o hppo meat !
The mountans on ether hand now began to
draw nearer to each other, t t ooked as though
to pass between them woud be mpossbe. The
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3 3 r 3
WA EKBUCK
'ONE OF THOSE BOTTOMLESS MORASSES
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rver grew more and more tumutuous the path
became rugged and broken, wndng n and out
amongst the rocks and bouders, between the
bushes and hgh grass, now up the steep sde
o a h, now aong the rdge onng ths o shoot
to the man range overookng the rver, ever
mountng hgher t we ound ourseves on the
top o Akko Mountan. Ths bod rock, whch
stands some two thousand eet above the Ne
bed, breasts the drvng wnd and seems to
command the storm. The rushng couds hat
n ther mad course upon ts crest, and cur n
suen mpotence around ts craggy summts.
The deep ravne, at the bottom o whch the
rver oams and bos, ormed by the Aron
Mountans, s ed wth the van ushed mst
whch snks poweress n ts dark gorge and
the brght sun, shnng rom the east, spreads a
perpetua ranbow upon the gau e-ke coud o
og whch settes n the deep hoow.
We spent one nght on Akko, shetered n a
uet corner whch ooked as t had been made
e pressy or my tent, and rom whch the vew
was gorous. I sank to seep, but, beng at a
hgher attude than usua, I kept on wakng up,
t at ast I dressed and set orth to see the sun
rse rom the crest.
For a ew moments a sounds seem to have
sunk to rest, t the dstant, gratng roar o a be-
ated on warns the weary porter whose duty t s
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to keep the embers o the watch- re gong he
pes resh wood upon them, and the brght ba e
shoots up amongst the trees, and throws a du,
ruddy gow on to the bare rocks. Mornng comes
at ength, ushered n be ore nght has yet departed,
by the strong shr cry o the great sh eage as
he sts on the topmost bough o some orest tree,
and, at measured perods, repeats hs uverng
and unearthy ye, ke an ev sprt cang.
A more cheerng sound charms the ear as the
grey tnts o the mornng make the stars grow
pae : cear rch notes, now proonged and u,
now pantve and ow, set the e ampe to the
other sngng brds, as the bubu, rst to awake,
procams the mornng. The brds nduge n
wd unge-bred songs, charmng n ther uant-
ness, not ke those o our humdrum thrushes n
od Engand.
The unge partrdge wakes up, and wth hs
oud cry subdues a other sounds. And now the
dstant h-tops ar beow strugge through the
snowy sheet o mst, ke sands n a ary sea
a soemny beaut u scene the dewdrops a
heavy rom the trees as the ght bree e strs
them rom an apparent seep a goden tnt
spreads over the sea o mst beow the sun's
rays dart ghtnng-ke rom the eastern sky the
mghty orb rses n a the uness o hs ma esty, re-
cang the Amghty's words, Let there be ght !
The sun has rsen ! The mghty sea beow
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mounts ke a snowy wreath around the h-tops,
and then, as a passng thought, t vanshes. A
gassy cearness o the atmosphere reveas the
magn cent vew o vrgn orest newy awakened
rom ts seep mountan and vaey, h and
pan, covered wth nnumerabe trees, stretch be-
neath one's eet every dewy ea gded by the
mornng sun every rock gstenng wth mosture
n hs brght rays mountan and vaey, wood and
pan, ake re ocng n hs beams.
Then on agan once more, through bush and
scrub, over rock and bouder, towards Nyer, the
bg peak n the Congo mountans and thence
onwards through a narrow gorge on the brnk o
the rver whch graduay wdened out as we
neared the vage and eds encrcng Nmue.
The ne trees, worthy o any park, were cumped
n dark green masses here and there. Ta bor-
assus pams were scattered about the vaey,
sometmes sngy, at others growng n consder-
abe numbers. Near and dstant hs, hgh and
bod rocks, n between whch ow the muddy
waters o the Unyama, now a shaow stream,
and the grand od Ne upon our rght, a com-
bned to orm a andscape o surpassng beauty.
At Nmue we were abe to rest awhe unt
the arrva o the boats, that took us urther up
the Ne to Butaba. We had, there ore, ampe
tme to make provson or our ** Sa ar, and re-
pensh the de cences n the chop-bo es. Here
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I ound that I was to trave n company wth
rends once more a great ree to the mono-
tony o the ourney as Captan Edwards, the
Inspector-Genera o Poce, accompaned by Mrs.
Edwards, bew n rom the annua nspecton
o hs men n the north. The sma steam-aunch
woud be somewhat crowded, and an e tra man
woud doubtess somewhat nconvenence a ady
n the cramped accommodaton at our dsposa
but we were great rends and ooked orward to
a most cheery tme. Captan Edwards was u
o dsgust wth hmse , as he had come across
eephants on hs trek, had ht a magn cent
tusker, and had pursued t through swamps and
unge or two days rom eary morn t dewy eve,
ony to track t up nto un rendy country where
the che was a we-known vory the and had
re used to ad hm n ts urther pursut. What
annoyed hm most, however, was that, ust be ore
embarkng on the steam-aunch, a man came n,
hot oot, wth the news that ths hoary od robber
had actuay coected the tusks and had
re used, pont-bank, to gve them up to the
Government. Ths was addng nsut to n ury,
but there was nothng or t but to ourney on
wthout them. That evenng the rst out rom
Nmue we ted up and anded at the od
deserted Began staton o Du e. We ound
the paths overgrown wth grass and weeds. O
the houses, made o brck and thatched wth
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straw, ony a ew o the was were standng,
whst a the roo s and the greater part o the
verandahs had aen n. A had gone to rack
and run a was totay destroyed. The ew
rut trees, panted and tended by the devoted
hands o Emn and hs o cers, reman n a
tanged wderness by the rver bank. The
beaut u avenue o me trees and date pams
has been de aced by the destructon o many
boughs, whe the ground beneath s teray
smothered n owers that have seeded themseves
year n and year out and gone wd n the
process.
We steamed on a through that nght so as to
arrve by daybreak at a avourte wood staton,
where we wshed to put n a ew hours' shootng
whst the saors cut ue. A three-me wak
brought us to some beaut u rong downs studded
wth a bush here and there and a scanty sprnkng
o trees. Under oot t was ke an Engsh hay-
ed. Eephants were known to be pent u here,
so we were not surprsed to come across ther od
tracks. In the mornng we saw nothng more
e ctng than hartebeest and orb, whch we e t
to try concusons wth on our return. And t
was we we dd. When we sat down to nvestgate
the contents o the unch basket, we ound that t
had not arrved. Presenty one o the men we had
e t n charge o t rushed up and n ormed us
that he was sorry he was ate, but that he and hs
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companons had been deayed by beng cut o by
a arge herd o eephants. Ths was great news,
and we retraced our steps n search o them. The
anmas, not havng been dsturbed, had passed on
uety eedng. The arge herd, however, turned
out to consst o a do en as we e pected. There
dd not appear to be a bg bu amongst them, so
we sat down to unch, keepng our gasses drected
on them rom the hgh poston we occuped. It
was most nterestng to watch them some three
hundred yards away, packed together under a
shady tree wth ther heads nwards acng the
tree-trunk. Now and agan there was a sudden
sght dsturbance as one had kcked another
by mstake then one woud turn round and show
hs head and great ears appng to and ro. A ter
unch, be ore eavng them atogether, we deter-
mned to go and make a coser nspecton, n case
one o the two bus, whch stood up much hgher
than the cows, shoud prove to have arger tusks
than we supposed. It s most curous how cose
one can get to a herd o eephants seepng ke
ths, even though one s rght out n the open
wthout a vestge o cowor, provded on approaches
the herd n such a way that the wnd bows rom
t to onese We crossed and recrossed ther
ront, and on ndng there was nothng worth
havne, came to the concuson that t woud be
best to make tracks or the rver once more.
On the way we met a hartebeest. My rend
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ht hm very hard nevertheess, he went o wth
a rush up-wnd. We started n pursut, hardy
e pectng to come up wth hm or some tme,
but shorty made hm out mpng pan uy aong,
gong straght away rom us. We oowed hm
cautousy, rather e pectng that n tme he woud
e down. In that case we hoped we mght be
abe to creep cose enough to gve hm the coup
de -rdce. The hartebeest behaved as we had
e pected, and we advanced wary to the spot
where he was yng. But he had taken the pre-
cauton to e down acng the way he had come,
and, rsng wth a sudden rush, was o agan.
The ne t tme about ha a me urther we
pro ted by our ormer dscom ture. Havng
marked the spot where he was hdden n the
grass, we made a short detour to take hm n
ank, and got hm. Our vctm had behaved n a
characterstc manner. When a strcken anma
bots up-wnd he aces the known danger behnd,
whst hs nose nstanty warns hm o possbe
enemes n ront. I an anma dashes away
down-wnd on beng ht wth a buet, he s
usuay ony sghty hurt, as we as much
rghtened, and w chance an unknown danger
so ong as he can keep we cear o hs deady
enemy man.
Ltte ncdents such as these, when o day
occurrence, teach a man ar more than the peru-
sa o hundreds o books and t s ony a matter
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
o tme be ore he ac ures a ar knowedge o the
habts o the d erent speces met wth n what-
ever shootng country he may be. What a man
earns n one country s naturay o the greatest
use to hm esewhere. There s a story o a
we-known bg-game shot, resh rom the A rcan
wds, who was nvted to a rend's deer orest n
Scotand whch was ceebrated or ts uanttes
o beaut u heads. On the rst shootng mornng
the host was somewhat surprsed at hs guest's non-
appearance at the break ast tabe, and when the
mea was neary nshed sent the buter up to hs
room to remnd the aggard that everybody was
amost ready to start. The guest was nowhere
to be ound. Imagne ther horror on emergng
rom the dnng-room to nd the sportsman
smng and e utant on the doorstep wth two
spendd heads ! O course, he had rsen wth
the ark. He had aways done t n A rca, and
remarked that t was the best tme o the day.
Oh, no he hadn't wanted ges hated the sght
o them he was accustomed to do hs own stak-
ng. Naturay he supposed that hs host and the
other guests were out eary n some other drecton,
as ther nes had been thoroughy e paned over-
nght but he had thought t odd that no one had
wakened hm rom hs sumbers. The host was
reay angry, and dd not ssue another nvtaton
to that sportsman.
- Ltte o moment occurred on our voyage to
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Butaba. We steamed aong past the wooded
mountans and the orest-cad hs, past the
papyrus banks and agoons, runnng aground
now and agan, cursng at the deays and gettng
dragged o at ast. In that part o the rver
t s scarcey possbe to avod the shoas o weeds
and mud. Frst the weeds coect unt they
orm a dense spongy mass whch stretches across
the rver and acts as a ter. Then as the water,
charged wth muddy partces, arrves at ths
natura dam where the stream s suddeny checked,
t deposts a mpurtes as t oo es and percoates
sowy through the tanged but compressed mass
o vegetaton. Ths depost ucky creates mud-
banks and shoas, whch e ectuay bock the
orgna bed o the rver.
The pant whch enters most argey nto the
composton o the sudd bocks s the Psta
stratoes. Ths resembes a sma oatng cab-
bage, wth ne thready roots ke a human beard,
some s teen nches n ength. The pstas o ten
orm dense masses whch are very d cut to
cear. Merry they bob aong the sur ace o the
rver n batches o twos and threes, or o severa
hundreds, t they get broken up n the rapds,
or entange themseves n a bank o reeds, and
seed themseves there.
An unevent u passage brought us up at anchor
n the and-ocked harbour o Butaba at the oot
o the o ty escarpment that hems n the eastern
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shore o Lake Abert, Ths strp o ow-yng
and between the mountan and the tempestuous
waters o the ake s a grand shootnc ground.
One may con denty e pect to meet severa
varetes o bg game or a hundred mes south
o Butaba rght down to the Semk rver, and
anmas wth good heads nto the bargan, as ew
peope come to these comparatvey unknown
parts n search o game. There are not many
nhabtants, so that our and sweet potatoes are
at a premum, but one can depend on sh to a
arge e tent to suppy one's entourage wth ood.
From here to Masnd s two days' march
through one o the great prmeva orests whch
e tend n a drectons n these parts. An oak
s a mere pgmy besde the gants o these wds.
O ten dd we stop to admre the prodgous
heght and grth o these trees. Ther beaut u
proportons render them the more strkng there
are no rough knobby stems such as we are accus-
tomed to see n the ancent oaks and ems o
Engand. Every trunk rses rom the earth ke
a mast, per ecty ree rom branches or a hundred
eet or so, straght as a dart, ormng a grey
par to support ts share o the rch canopy
above, whch consttutes a roo per ecty m-
pervous to the sun. It s d cut to guess the
actua heght o these trees, but I shoud say
that o ten as not one woud mss wth a gun a
brd on the topmost branches. From age to age
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these magn cent trees reman n ther undsturbed
soHtudes, graduay ncreasng n ther endess
growth, and towerng above the dark vstas o
everastng sence.
No one can magne the utter stness whch
regns n these depths. In the shades o the orest
I have o ten stood and stened or some sound,
but aways n van not a chrp o a brd, nor the
hum o an nsect s heard. The mouth o nature
s seaed. The perpetua verdure and the reshness
o each tree create an dea o eterna vegetaton,
and the svery dm ght adds to the charm o
the enchanted oneness. Creepers o the thck-
ness o a man's thgh e snakeke aong the
ground, and then rearng ther twsted orms on
hgh, cmb the o test trees, and hang n
estoons rom stem to stem, ke the cabes o an
od-tme batteshp. Each estoon e tends rom
tree to tree or many hundred yards now ang
to the earth and strkng a resh root, then wth
ncreased energy remountng the hghest trunks
and ormng a abyrnth o twsted webbng
among the ceng o the orest.
A curous and tte-known anma nhabts
these dusky sences. The natves ca hm
the Intaaganya, a ong crack- aw name pho-
netcay spet. I have never met a man who
has seen a specmen ave, much ess who
has shot one, though the speces seems to e st
n ar uanttes, one may udge by the
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arge number o skns t s possbe to ac ure by
barter rom the natves. The skns are very
sma, about as arge as those o the dk-dk a
mouse-cooured awn n appearance wth e tremey
sky har. Both se es are sad to be horness.
Intaaganyas are numerous n ths dstrct, and
there are a ew to be ound n those dense so-
tudes on the banks o the Semk nestng under
the shadow o Ruen or. The natves are sad
to organ e arge drves or them, and to catch
them n ong nets spread rom tree to tree through
the undergrowth to entange them. One never sees
a shot mark on the skns, whch are usuay obtaned
sewn together n the orm o karosses. These
are much pr ed and command a very good prce.
My vew o the orest was consderaby marred
by a dose o ever, brought on n a probabty
by ong marches n the sun and contnua wettngs
but the kndy attentons o Mr. Anderson, who
dspensed avsh hosptaty at Masnd, soon
counteracted the e ects. A sorht dvarson
here, caused by an eephant hunt, took us a short
dstance out o our way. There was news o two
bus great bg ones ! We trekked . . . and, to
cut a ong story short, came upon the poo
where they had drunk the prevous nght. The
unge was desperatey thck, so one o my men,
armed wth a r e, marched we ahead wth the
natve who had been responsbe or the tdngs.
Soon we heard an ntermttent crashng as o
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C C C . C c' C S ' C O o t ' ' t
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eephants seepy eedng and breakng down the
branches at ntervas. Ths sound we ocated as
proceedng rom a dense cump o ta trees.
Makng a ong detour to try and get the wnd
rght, and at the same tme reach, wth as tte
nose as possbe, the pace through the dense
thckets that surrounded t, we advanced upon
the poston. On our e t was a dense, mpene-
trabe mass o thorny tange, and on our rght a
hgh mpervous growth o reeds, ta enough to
concea the bggest eephant that ever e sted.
The tree was on our rght ront. The wnd
came rom our e t ront. . . . We moved
steathy orward. A bark n the reeds tod us
that a bushbuck had got our wnd. We prayed
that the eephants woud not hear that, and that
our good uck w keep our end up! I the
anmas were actuay under the tree, we and
good n the reeds, ook out or . . . By Gad !
a crash resounded ve yards away n the reeds,
whch bent and swayed voenty to and ro, and
behaved as they were ute mad. There was
a sudden stampede, but by the greatest o good
uck the rghtened monsters ddn't break cover
our way. But as the crashng grew anter and
anter we ooked at one another n hopeess
dsgust. Three eephants had been under the
tree and one n the grass, and the bushbuck's
warnng was not n van. How we cursed the
wretched brute !
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Food was now the order o the day under the
spreadng branches o the tree, but we had barey
got the bo open when another crashng, ute
cose by, came rom the drecton o our ne o
advance. Eephants, no doubt ! As the nose
grew ouder and more cose, we grpped our
r es, determned to do or de. In a moment
they woud move nto our wnd and we shoud
know the worst whether they woud bot, or
whether they were out or bood and meant
chargng. The worst happened, and they ed.
Woud you beeve t ! They were the same
anmas we had dsturbed a moment be ore. Two
men, who had gone n pursut o ther tracks,
came n and reported the act. What must have
happened was ths : the bushbuck had gven
the whoe show away. No anma n the unge
ever dsdans another's warnng sgna, and a-
though the eephants had nether seen nor heard
anythng, they knew that they had better make
ther absence et at any rate, or a tme. A ter
gong or a short dstance, however, they had
probaby coected ther shattered nerves and
headed back to contnue ther sesta under ther
avourte tree, and to nvestgate matters gen-
eray. Then they had got our wnd. I ony
we had stopped ty yards behnd, where the
grass was thnner, the eephants woud have
waked straght nto us. But no one n hs
senses woud have stopped out n the open to eat
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hs unch when there was the grate u shade o a
tree avaabe ty yards away st ess woud
he have supposed the eephants woud return so
soon, or even at a. It was sheer bad uck: and
one o them was such a bg eow, too !
I sha never orget the beauty o Masnd, and
I woud I coud descrbe t n ade uate terms but
a teegram receved there, hurryng up my return,
orced me to eave ne t mornncr. The shootno
woud not be good by the shortest road, whch I
necessary had to take, so I e t wth a heart
heavy at the thought that my peasant ourney
woud be over a too soon, and that t woud be
many a ong day be ore I shoud be abe to obtan
eave o absence to shoot n other dstrcts.
Our rst hat was at the rver Ka u, a suggsh
trbutary o the Vctora Ne, whch we reached
a ter a st sh march. Ths s a sow- owng,
muddy rver, anked by rch tropca vegetaton
grace u pams and ovey erns overhang the
water. The greens seem partcuary vvd here
a ter the burnt-up dryness o the pans, and the
red young eaves o some o the trees have the
appearance o autumna tnts, and orm a eature
pecuar to the A rcan andscape. Game was
not present n any consderabe uantty. One
herd o ebra, numberng about thrty, stood
starng at us or so ong at a dstance o about
eghty yards that I was abe to photograph them.
Now and agan we got sheter rom the burn-
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ng rays beneath the wd date pams, a very
peasng eature n the pcture, vared by the an
pams, havng green eather-ke eaves and brght
orange staks covered wth smary cooured rut.
When rpe ths rut becomes dark brown, ke
the cutvated date. At ntervas, a ew deght-
u moments o repose woud be passed by a
marshy stream, amost hdden by ts rch unge
o shade.
Then came some weary marches through an
everastng bush o mmosa thorn whch rose ke
mpenetrabe was on ether sde o us. Aong
ths road there s hardy any rsng ground hence
t s mpossbe to see anythng or more than a
ew yards around one, uness one s wng to
brave the dangers o penetratng the bush and
returnng to camp wth tattered garments and
ru ed temper, return you can, or when ony a
ew yards rom camp t s ute possbe to get
hopeessy ost. The mpervousness o ths
unge n some paces s amost unbeevabe the
bushes o wat-a-bt thorn orm an absoutey m-
passabe barrer. Every tree o every descrpton
about here seems to be armed by nature wth
weapons or ts own de ence. The naturast can
here en oy every hour o hs day. The owers
are ovey and anma e s seen n many unac-
customed orms. uant spre-ke ant-hs,
taperng to pnnaces o teen eet n heght, and
the custered nests o the nosy, yeow weaver-
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brds meet the eye on every sde. From tree to
tree huge grey spders whch weave webs o
sk-ke matera, whch wth the dew and the
mornng sun upon them ook ke gau e curtans
suspended n the ar. On the ground urk
creepng thngs nnumerabe, and deady mambas,
both ove and back varetes, whose bte means
a sure and speedy death. Wherever there s a
rocky kop e you are sure to hear at nght a the
hdeous scream o the baboons.
The ast nght out we made or a pond, amed
a the country round, n order that my men
mght do great thngs n the washng ne, and
get themseves spck-and-span to make ther entree
nto Bombo, the head- uarters o the regment.
It was a great dsappontment to us, however, to
nd nothng but a muddy pudde, we tramped
by o en, who had ust been watered there.
Needess to say we dd not stay or our proposed
washng, but hurred on. A ter the ong, at
stretch o wateress, dust-covered country we had
crossed, t was a great ree to reach the hs
round Bombo, where the rustng ronds o the
banana trees gve ther peasng shade, to attan
the and o sweet potatoes and a thngs good that
appea to the ong-su erng porter's stomach.
And so Bombo was reached. We had tme
and to spare to rest our weary egs there be ore
settng orth once more on my ast ourney out
o ths unheathy and.
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V
HIPPOPOTAMUS
SwAHL : KBOKO. Arabc : Gerunt
I AM gong to reate a day's e perence wth
hppo and savages n one and the same
breath. The scene s on the Ne, ust
beow the Foa Rapds, n the narrowest
part o the rver, where the great Congo moun-
tans seem to try and meet those round Nmue.
I sha not stop to descrbe ether the ponderous
beast or hs habts. A the word knows that by
day he ves n the water among reeds, comng
up to bow and snort at ntervas whst at nght
he ands to take hs mea o grass and make a
beasty row, boomng about the pace ke the
savages I am mpcatng n the day's amusement.
We, I shot one. And o course I returned
to my tent, ke ob, to seep o my mpatence
t the carcase shoud get u enough o gas to
rse rom the bottom o the rver. Ths usuay
takes about three or our hours.
Camp was ptched n one o the beaut u shady
acaca eroves, o whch there are numbers on the
banks o the Ne here, not ar rom a arge vage
owned by a dear od man caed Kuyu. The
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roar o the rapds was n my ears, and the shadowy,
purpe, mpressve Congo mountans towerng on
the ar sde o the rver were vsbe rom wthn
my tent, the aps beng rased to encourage the
sghtest breath o ar n ths curous crack n
the earth's oor. Hereabouts the Uganda sde
o the rver s or the most part a seres o rong
pans, sma rvers, and watercourses, down to
the Ne bed whst on the opposte bank the
and rses to, say, one hundred eet, and then
presumaby drops nto a narrow vaey that ought
to be st wth game o a sorts. A tte urther
on a short me rom the western bank o the
Ne rses a grand range o mountans, whch
appears to be ute 2000 eet hgh rom our
standpont o rver-bed and grass. Beyond, the
natves te me, s pan agan, but a on a hgher
eve than ours.
A sudden shout and rush o the meat-ovng
porters roused me rom ony a do e be t
assured and the gup was a about the
hppo that had rsen and was oatng down
stream, becomng now and agan hdden n the
rush o water. I got on some cothes and
wandered down to the rver bank, to nd the
body washed hgh and dry on some rocks n
md-stream.
Havng sent or rope rom camp to use n-
stead o the natve-made twsted creeper thngs
to pu the monster n by, I began to e pan the
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
method to be pursued n gettng hm the two
hundred yards or so nto the bank.
The savages sad, I know !
O some twenty went, stark oh ! ha
swmmng, ha oatng, each man on hs ambatch
og, towards the carcase. Meanwhe I had seen
another bg hppo, and havng uestoned them
cosey as to whether t was possbe to secure
the two, and beng answered n the a rmatve,
proceeded to add hm to my st. As uck woud
have t, the pack o savages who had started o
a ter the rst dead hppo were carred by the
ow o the stream rght n the way o the second
hppo, who ucky happened to be n hs death
throes. However, I covered hm wth my r e
n case he shoud have enough e e t n hm to
turn nasty, but up went hs egs, and he ** ku a-ed,
as they say, whst the swmmers were wthn a
yard or two o hm a round.
I turned to the savagres who had remaned on
the bank wth me, and ntmated that t was a
wonder that none o the peope n the water had
got hurt, and they sad, I know !
We, the swmmers ted the rope to the eg
o the a oresad dead hppo, and a ter a ot o
shoutng and shovng got hm o the rocks and
started hm on hs way to the bank.
I remarked that I hoped they had got hod o
the other end o the rope, and they reped, I
know !
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Hppopotamus
I then entered nto conversaton wth the che ,
and tod hm how the Shuks, urther down the
Ne, who are past-masters n the mysteres o a
hppo hunt, aways manage to have an ambatch
oat made o very ght wood, amost atogether
pth attached to the morbund carcase, and he
answered, I know !
A ter a ot o abber and chatter the swmmers,
each supported on hs own og o ambatch, reached
terra rma. I sad I hoped the hppo woud
soon be haued to shore, as I wshed to take a
photograph o hm and they sad, Oh, no ! we
haven't s ot hm !
He had sunk agan, they n ormed me and on
beng uestoned as to the method o procedure,
whether they had ted the rope to hs eg es ! ,
whether anyone had hod o the rope, or had
attached a oat thereto, they sad, *' No ! We
ouo ht to have !
In a whte-hot rage I stormed, ou have ost
hm and I' be hanged they ddn't reterate,
I know !
Grand nae ! Cooured ghts, and ar o vared
hues !
I roared wth aughter and hopeess dsgust !
By Gad ! It makes one sck to thnk o t ! What
can one do wth such e traordnary wooden-
headed, know-a peope as savages They are
bred savages, born savages, dragged up as
savages, and they aways w be savages.
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
For the best part o eght years I've ved
amongst many o the d erent untamed den ens
o these A rcan wds, and have thought I've
known ther habts and customs nevertheess, I
have not yet succeeded n arrvng at the bottom
o ther e traordnary procvtes.
They w go on sayng I know! t
kngdom come, whst you w go on beevng
them!
We, the rea wnd-up o ths hppo epsode
was on the day oowng the above remarks
and t gave me no reason to ater a snge word
o what I have sad about savages.
News came n rom the men who had been
sent rushng o at eary dawn to ook out or the
oatng carcase enemy that they had ound hs
body, and, what was more, had retreved hm,
and that he was hard and ast to the bank
de eated wth heavy oss. On ths beng sworn
to wth many bahs, spears thrown on the
ground, and hands rased n the ar, I thought t
was good enough to go and vst the scene o
the decsve batte.
And t was a scene ! Tak about savages,
hyenas weren't n t wth them !
Athough the teeth o the monster were to be
cut out or me, as was uety e paned by the
che and unversay accepted wth oud accama-
tons, wthn ve short mnutes the whoe boom-
ng trbe were hackng, hewng, cuttng, howng,
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y 3
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. - 3
. 1 3 ' 3
:-
A BAB HIP'O. ON LAKK ALBERT
TH HIPPO. HARD AND FAST TO THIC BANK
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Hppopotamus
shoutng, and s uabbng that's a the verbs I
can make use o at present wthout reason. They
were ony savages !
The bank was very steep and the stench rose,
but the head dd not because every man, woman,
or chd was tryng to secure a pece o meat,
che y stomach. A ter standng ths or an hour
or so under a brong A rcan sun n the noon-
day heat, you can magne the state o my temper.
One o the promscuous bts o stomach, that
were beng contnuay hured up the bank to no
one n partcuar, but the whoe women ok o the
trbe n genera, caught me n the ace, and n
sheer se -de ence I had to guratvey wade n
wth a stck. The head had ust been severed,
and ucky my orderes had hod o t but a
stern order or the remander o the carcase to be
shoved o and et go, so that I mght obtan my
sma wants, met wth a how o dsgust.
The anma was ast putre yng, and they had
got pes o stnkng meat. What they wanted
wth more no one knows, but I eventuay suc-
ceeded n gettng some twenty or thrty abe-
boded men to attend to my re urements. I
managed to secure the our teeth a rght, though
t took me t our o'cock n the a ternoon be ore
I had them back n camp.
The savages poor devs ! must have ther
thy ood, and as a resut, at o p.m. on the same
evenng more than ha the vage was stupe ed
p 209
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
rom overeatng, and the rest tpsy the resuts
o merssa or natve beer brewed rom dhurra
n honour o the occason. Athough they ove
the meat above a thngs, what good does a sur-
et o t do them I suppose t's ke a boat-
race nght n town, whch, beng nterpreted to
those not n the know, means a ggantc bust !
E uay unntegbe I hope !
We, the tusks were good ones, so I went to
bed happy but I w never retract any remarks
I have made about savages.
2IO
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VI
TOPI
DAMALISCUS GIMELA
I HAVE ust ked a top n the Nmue
dstrct so now I am at a greater oss
than ever to decde where the ne comes
that separates top rom tang.
My vctm s a top rght enough. Hs head
shows ths, as do hs coour, make, and shape, to
say nothng o the two attendant emaes. I was
sure they were top when I rst set eyes upon
them, and I made douby sure by agan scru-
tn ng them or some tme through gasses
be ore I red. They had no dea o my presence,
and my orderes sat down at once. I was then
enabed to have a good ook at them s ty yards
away or some ten mnutes, so that there was no
possbty o my mstakng them.
They wore the same dark red and purpe cothes
n whch I had prevousy made ther ac uantance
n East A rca and on the German boundary.
The horns o the ndvdua I have shot are
very thck ndeed, beng n act much thcker
than I had e pected to nd them, but not so ong
as n my ormer specmen, shot ve hundred mes
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
urther south. These top were nhabtng the
same knd o bush country as I have descrbed n
Bg Game Shootng on the E uator.
I was very much dstressed at not beng abe
to obtan a photograph, but t was ar too eary n
the mornng or the ght, and I was handcapped
by beng hard pressed or tme, wth a seres o
ong marches n ront.
I repeat I have not the east hestaton n
sayng he was a top nevertheess, I woud ask
sportsmen n the Sudan Government, vng on the
rght bank o the Ne n the Provnce o Mon-
gaa and at the head- uarters o the Sobat
rver, to make care u notes as to whch speces
occurs n ther dstrcts, n order that somethng
de nte may be ascertaned as to where the ne
comes that marks the meetng-pace between the
tang o the North and the top o the South.
Top are known to e st n ar uanttes n
the Gondokoro dstrct, but are very much more
numerous the nearer to Abyssna that one goes
East, that s to say. They are to be met wth
n the south o Uganda towards Imbarara and
the Semk rver, and are there ound n arge
herds.
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VII
ORIBI
I HAVE seen a good dea o ths tte anma
o ate, both n the esh and n the pot.
He s much to be admred n ether capacty,
beng beaut u to behod and very good
to eat.
A ter the gunea- ow or partrdge, or anythng
o' that k, the orb easy hods premere pace
at dnner n the wds, where one s or ever try-
ng to throw o the shackes o ntermnabe
courses o anteope meat. There s not much o
hm when he's dvded up, t's true, but what
there s s top hoe. He s a beast a ter the
heart o the gourmet not o the gourmand.
Ne t to the dk-dk trbe, I take t he s the
smaest game anma n A rca throughout ts
ength and breadth : a sprghty ght awn-
cooured tte genteman, growng two sender
horns rather sopng backwards and then orwards,
but amost straght, wth rng marks round ther
bases or an nch or so up towards the tps.
One nds them n Uganda and the Sudan n
amost a paces not very ar rom water, generay
n pars, but sometmes n company wth one or
two others who have presumaby come to pay
213
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
them a vst and pass the tme o day. They
seem to a ect bush or grass country not orests
and a ord good sport pursued wth a r e.
They may be seen eedng n the eary morn-
ng, and are then more easy staked than n the
heat o the noonday sun. I dsturbed when
restng under the shade o a rendy bush, they
ump up wth a coupe o startng bounds, stand
or a moment to see who or what has dsturbed
them, and then gaop o through the under-
growth. I one does not ava onese o the
shot they a ord when they stand on rst beng
dsturbed, t s useess to oow them up, as,
beng so sma and ght, they eave no tracks
behnd them to gude the sportsman. A standng
shot s generay the ony one that can be at-
tempted. Such a shot has the advantage o
showng you how steady you are shootng
you can manage to hod straght and bag an
orb, t means that your hand s n a t state to
try the neck-shot on any anma you may meet
a terwards and what s more, when you meet
that ne t anma you tacke hm wth con dence.
I you a n wth a par o orb you may
reasonaby presume that there are more not so
very ar away. I have severa paces n my
mnd's eye where the sght o a par, on a ow
rdge or n thny-bushed grass country, aways
has, and or ever w, mean more, so ong as one
hunts or them n the same knd o country
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#
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5
, 5 3 3 3
' 3 ' 3
URIBI
r
camp was ptchku wnuu dav
see page 227
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#
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#
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Orb
oowng aong the rdge, or perseverng under
the atter condtons. They may seem rather
nsgn cant, but they're worth whe addng to
one's st o game shot or ther esh as we
as ther tte heads, whch ook ute we ng
up the gaps on the was o one's ancestra has
between the more magn cent trophes on whch
one sets so much store.
215
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VIII
BOUND FOR KHARTOUM
ONCE MORE
IT was on a Tuesday, the 4th o August,
1908, that I started rom Bombo or my ast
trek through Uganda to on the head-
uarters o the Egyptan army at Khartoum.
I set out on my ourney accompaned by many a
wsh or good uck n the new and and servce
I was enterng. The season was not proptous,
as the rans were at ther heght. Durng the
greater part o the ourney the ran poured n
torrents day and nght soaked us a to the skn,
and added consderaby n conse uence to the
weght o the oads on the un ortunate porters'
heads. It was mpossbe to buy our or them
to eat, as by the end o a day's march t woud
have been converted nto an ndgestbe poutce.
But ucky that dd not matter to them, as
sweet potatoes, whch they put down wth e ua
voracty, were to be purchased n any uantty.
A sma escort o an N.C.O. and three men, wth
about thrty porters, a cook, and a body-servant
or me, competed the party, whch started merry
away n the brant sunshne o a temporary
break n the rans.
216
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
It s we to make the rst march a short one
one s proceedng on a ong ourney, as every-
thng s pandemonum at the begnnng, and the
porters ke to have penty o tme to sette down
on reachng camp the rst day out.
We soon e t the mmedate con nes o the
cv aton o a town, and that evenng saw us
encamped on the ast rdge we shoud have to
cross be ore gettng out nto the open country.
It was a pretty camp, amongst ta orest trees
and eephant grass, but, oh ! how t raned n the
evenng, whch boded or the morrow.
O n the resh eary mornng, the hgh grass
sprnkng ts dew upon us n myrads o gstenng
drops. How much my toet was mproved by
ths shower-bath can easy be magned. O ten
enough on such marches I have enved my
savages, who by hangng a broad banana ea
n ront o ther bodes obtaned very good pro-
tecton, whe I was wet and shverng a vctm
to my own cv aton.
A ceaseess monotony enveops the traveer
upon these marches, sharp and prcky grasses,
soated trees acacas and mmosas and reeds
o ggantc dmensons o ten ormng reguar
was on ether sde. But the monotony o
trampng s not ute unbroken. Every now
and agan, ute une pectedy, one gets a bow
on the shn rom some hdden tree stump, or a
tear rom some prcky thorn, o whch the most
217
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
destructve are purpe thstes, s eet hgh wth
arge eaves, whte on ther under sde.
Presenty we reached a cear owng stream,
whch, ourneyng rom east to west, bubbed
aong n ts deep sandy bed. A tte ater we
came across one o those bottomess morasses
that e st ony n Uganda, and about whch one
bttery compans. One snks up to the wast n
back, thck, stnkng mud and athough n some
paces attempts have been made to erect a knd
o brdge wth the stems o the abundant Dom
pam, these paces are o ten ust the most danger-
ous, because the stems, havng no rm oundaton,
are apt to ro away rom under oot when one
steps on them. The ncdents o A rcan trave
must be e perenced to be apprecated. To ump
rom one pank to another, to mss one's ootng
and a up to the breast n water and mud, to
ee the burnng sensaton caused by the sharp-
ponted barbs o spear-grass, and above a to
wtness the absurd appearance presented by a
whoe company o peope kckng about n swamp
and mud a these thngs are part o the day's
march. However, one gets graduay hardened
by orce o crcumstances, and ceases to care very
much, t n the end one seems to orget these
troubes and d cutes to a great e tent and t
s ony when one's pet r e or ed-gasses are
dropped nto the water that the nasty tde thng
caed temper makes tse heard.
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
Wth a ths grass about, game was practcay
nvsbe, and t was ony at ong ntervas that
one mght ute by chance come across a sma
herd congregated n a cearng. A hartebeest
now and agan, a stray Uganda cob or two, was
practcay a the amusement to be obtaned
durng ths the rst part o the march.
I was tryng a new route much to the east o
my ast trek. Ltte attempt at cv aton broke
the everastng monotony o swamp, water, and
eephant grass. No house nvted the stranger
to enter and rest awhe. Groups o mmosas
ormed the ony ree to the swampy and covered
wth ths ta grass, n whch thousands o back
and whte mos utoes hed ther concerts. The
water stood everywhere knee-deep upon the eve
pan thcky grown wth grasses. A path some
eghteen nches wde ed through ths chaos o
water and mud. Where eephants had used t,
ther vsts were pany ndcated by hoes nto
whch we sometmes e. I saw at one pace
a sma herd o bu ao at a dstance rom the
road en oyng themseves n the mud. As our
caravan approached them the bu aoes rushed
mady away, kckng up the water behnd them.
Very notceabe were the swarms o butter es
o a sorts and s es whch ew round us n the
mdst o the swamps, sometmes even aghtng
on our cothes.
Throughout ths marsh-and sma patches o
219
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
sghty hgher ground orm occasona sma
sands. They are thcky covered by ow
mmosas, and many o them are crowned wth
groups o gness bocks some ten eet n heght.
One wonders how t s possbe or these rocks to
have ound ther way nto the mdde o ths eve
swamp-and.
So we marched on through thck and thn, and
once when I remarked to the gudes that they
mght et us hat or the day, as the porters must
be tred wth wadnor through the mud, I was tod
that our uarters or the nght were ute near.
It turned out, however, that they were at east two
whoe hours dstant. But the porters a got there,
whch w gve an dea o a Baganda's marchng
powers, when he does march, as we as the
nconse uence and ack o knowedge o one's
day gude.
On nearng the Ka u rver I had to work west-
wards, as the stream was swoen and mpassabe
where I now struck t, and there were no natves
wth canoes n ths ow-yng e panse o swamp.
It was there ore necessary to strke or the
scene o my prevous passage, where aso I hoped
to nd some g-ame or the arder n the ha -ceared
country amongst the shambas that I knew o .
We ht o the crossng a rght at Kchuya, and
I was abe to get meat or myse , the remander
o the party aso tumbng n or ther share but
on the way we had to negotate a arge marsh
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
whose waters owed nto the Ka u. Ths neces-
stated a short hat n order to make our swamp
toets. A strcty unnecessary cothes, together
wth the hundred and one sma mpedmenta
whch a traveer re ures on the road watch,
compass, anerod, kn e, etc., were made up nto a
bunde and carred on the head. The water
reached up to our necks and was ed wth
decomposed vegetabe matter. The rays o the
sun were scorchng, and couds o mos utoes took
the opportunty o attackng us wth mpunty.
Sowy the porters marched orward, eeng each
step o the way wth ther spears. Ther work
was amost superhuman, but st no snge oad
was dropped nto the swamp, the crossng o
whch asted neary an hour. Once, some tme
be ore, a porter on emergng rom another such
swamp got nto an eephant hoe, and, stumbng
wth hs heavy oad, caught hod o a tree to save
hmse rom ang. By ev uck there chanced
to be a bees' nest n the branches, and the
unucky man brought down ther vengeance not
ony on hmse , but on yours truy and the
remander o hs eows. Lucky he was amost
the ast man out o the water, or the oads, whch
were ptched nto the grass on a sdes whst
ther owners scampered heter-sketer away, woud
have been ost n the water.
I the swamp or stream s o no great depth,
t s a good pan to take o one's breeches and
23t
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
puttes, and wndng the ta o hs shrt hgher
and hgher round one's neck necessary
advance upon the swamp n that ashon, because
soaked breeches mpede wakng sady, besdes
beng apt to rub one severey.
The ne t day saw us nto Masnd once agan
or the ast tme, I am a rad and t was a
shockng day. No ess than three tmes were we
soused to the skn n deuges o ran three tmes
the swear-words became mder and ded away
as the cothes dred on us n the sun a ourth
tme a storm caught us a short uarter o a me
rom the com ortabe bungaow I was makng
or, where I hoped to nd a rend ndeed on such
a day as ths. But aas ! the pace was un-
tenanted the owner was traveng round hs
dstrct, and we ound no servant, no nothng.
To make matters worse, the porters were ar
behnd, as ths was a very ong march, besdes
beng e ceptonay tryng owng to the dread u
cmatc condtons. Nothng but drenchng,
pourng ran a the evenng outsde, and shverng
dampness nsde. There are many o you, my
knd rends, n town or n the country n your
statey Engsh homes, where hosptaty s ds-
pensed wth avsh hand, who have no dea o the
hardshps and dscom orts o a wanderng e
mdst a burnng tropca sun whch eats up the
very marrow n one's bones, t one ances one
has at ast reached an earthy Hades, ony to be
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
succeeded n the snap o the nger by back-dark
sheets o tempestuous ran settng every nerve
a-trembHng and every tooth a-chatterng. It's
worst o a when one's tent has to be ptched n
a parta swamp and there's no ghost o a chance
o gettng one's cothes eave aone boots dry
by the mornng's start a ter havng sept that
word be permssbe between bankets that have
not been dry or a week or more.
Masnd s one o the prettest paces t has been
my ortune to see n Uganda, and t was ute at
ts best n the brant sunshne o the mornng
a ter the storm. Everythng was a beaut u
vvd green houses peeped out amd the u urant
growth o grass and trees orced by the steamy
acton o sun and ran and smoke wreaths
cured up rom the houses to the bue skes
above. Every knd o vegetaton has a chance
here. The so s wonder uy rch at the same
tme t s very easy worked. When the ta
rank grass s torn out by the roots, a ne sur ace
s e posed that resembes dark chocoate. Ths
s a vegetabe oam, restng on a brght red
uart grave. The uart s not rounded, and
appears to be the resdue o decayed rock that
has never been sub ected to the acton o runnng
water. Wth such a subso the country must be
heathy, as the heavest showers dran rapdy
o through the grave.
I now decded to vst Homa, the capta o
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
Unyoro, some two days' march dstant to the
south-west. The road s broad and care uy
ceared, as there s ute a consderabe amount
o tra c here, and many natves own e tensve
shambas borderng the roadsde. We marched
aong the usua see-saw-ke road o Uganda
proper, the country beng much cut up by water-
courses, a bubbng merry aong at ths tme
o the year, between the rdges crowned wth
eephant grass and orest trees.
Homa s a straggng pace yng n an am-
phtheatre o hgh hs acng west. The
Mtary H s south o the Cv H and the
Indan Ba aar, and everythng s cean and tdy.
Ths s a great centre o trade, amost e uang
Kampaa, ten days away to the south-east by the
cart road. The Ne ota, be t remembered,
does, n addton to a the Ne work to and rom
Nmue, the carryng trade or the Begans n
the Congo across Lake Abert rom ts western
shores to the port o Butaba a wnd-bown
sandy spt some twenty mes north o od-tme
Kbero, a ort n the Mutny days.
The ste o Homa has been changed two or
three tmes owng to severe outbreaks o sck-
ness, but I shoud say t has now grown too bg
to move agan. It s the head- uarters o the
northernmost detachment o the Kng's A rcan
R es, besdes havng a arge compement o
Protectorate Poce. The Sub-Commssoner n
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
charge o the provnce was away on tour at the
tme o my arrva, so I passed a very peasant
evenng at the house o an od Somaand rend,
Captan George Lane, r.a.m.c, where chat
wa ed ast and urous t ong past mdnght.
Here I changed my pans, and nstead o boardng
the aunch at Butaba as was my rst ntenton,
made up my mnd to trek northwards round the
edge o Lake Abert and pck her up at Bugungu,
spendng the tme n between n tryng or
eephant n that dstrct. Ths woud nvove
passng through the Budonga Forest Game
Reserve, however, where o course shootng s
barred, but at the same tme the route was tte
known, and ay practcay aong the ake shore,
whst I coud cross the Reserve n a day wth
uck. Moreover, I shoud not be n the orest
at a, and I was ed to beeve that the gong was
good and the grass short, added to whch I had
great hopes o beng abe to secure one o the bg
waterbuck that I had seen n these ow-yng parts.
We ptched our camp n the od spot ha -way
down the escarpment, some ve mes rom
Butaba, where a message was sent to the o cer
n charge n ormng hm o my ntentons, and
askng or the aunch and boats to put nto
Bugungu. There are arge numbers o bush-
buck on the escarpment tse , and on the at
grass ands at ts oot. I managed to bag, besdes
a hartebeest or the men's ood, a very nce spec-
225
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
men o the speces o bushbuck, wth the massve
horns I menton esewhere, athough not such
a bg one as that obtaned by Mr. Murray some
twenty mes south o ths.
The road was very pretty : no hgh trees, and
no more o the ob ectonaby ong grasses. The
path wound n and out between sweet-smeng,
goden, owerng mmosas, and was carpeted by
nce so t vevety tur , pcked out wth uanttes
o pnk and whte trumpet-shaped es. We ad-
vanced very wary, we ahead o the caravan,
peerng round every corner to avod startng the
game, whch was pent u.
Suddeny our gude stopped dead, and
ponted out the statey orm o a vertabe
patrarch among waterbucks, wth the nest
horns I had ever behed beaut u, symmetr-
ca, and wde-spreadng. He was unconscous
o our presence, but evdenty had heard or
suspected some knd o danger, as he stood
aert wth ears prcked, but ortunatey ook-
ng n the wrong drecton. I took hurred
am at some ty yards, and he e to a shot n
the neck. Ths was good work, as hs horns
taped 32|- nches. It was, however, useess to
take hs mask, as to have preserved t n the
rans woud have been ute mpossbe, because
dryng was out o the ueston, and the maggots
and bugs mght have got nto some other more
vauabe skns I was usng every endeavour to
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
preserve. The head was a most wecome ac-
uston, and another mask taken n a drer
cmate woud serve to adorn t, and make t a
thng o beauty and a oy or ever.
Then we came to a horrd pace to cross, the
Wapoka rver, where the Reserve begns. Ths
took some dong. But though the water was up
to our necks and owng very sw ty, we nego-
tated t by makng a doube chan o porters
one row ormng ne hand n hand to wthstand
the orce o the current, whst the remander
transported the oads by reays eanng up aganst
the human rope when they were carred o ther
egs. The meat shot n the mornng woud stand
us n good stead unt we shoud pass out o the
Game Reserve, whch we e pected to do on the
morrow, provded we had the good uck not to
meet any un ordabe stream en route. Oddy
enough, tte game was met wth n the Reserve,
but towards the northern end oreat numbers o
ootprnts o eephants, deepy outned n the
so t gong under oot, to say nothng o the torn-
down branches o the bushes, showed us that
there was a arge herd n the neghbourhood.
Soon we arrved at the Waga rver, where the
Reserve ends. Athough ts banks were some
teen eet hgh t was a mere trcke, as there
had been no ran snce yesterday, whch shows
how soon these mountan torrents and empty.
Camp was ptched wthout deay some three or
227
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
our hundred yards away rom the rver to try
and crcumvent the myrads o mos utoes that
woud start sngng on the rver bank at sunset.
Messages were sent to the oca che makng
arrangements or the purchase o ood, and re-
uestng hm to come n and see me and break-
ast was got under wegh. In an hour or so
some natves arrved wth the news that a herd
o about ty eephants were somewhere about,
and partes were despatched north and east to
nd ther tracks. At the end o a terr c down-
pour, that asted t about three o'cock n the
a ternoon, some o my porters rushed n wth the
news that they had been hed up by a mob o
eephants ust on the other sde o the Waga,
n the Reserve. Out we went, armed to the
teeth, and n the sence a ter the storm we coud
ceary dstngush at ntervas the trumpetng
and crashng o eephants as they ed n the
unge. We wandered aong by the rver a that
a ternoon, sowy keepng parae to the ee-
phants' ne o march, hopng aganst hope that
the noton o crossno- the Wacra n our drecton
woud enter ther heads. I must own I was
sorey tempted to cross and have a dg at them,
and my men begged me to aow them to go and
try to drve them over. But ths I coud not
aow, as I had sent them I shoud have to have
gven them a r e or protecton's sake, and then
t mght have been used rghty or wrongy so,
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
bad uck to t, we had to contnue on our ourney
and eave the eephants behnd. They mght
have crossed n ha an hour, or they mght have
remaned on the other bank or two or three
days, and tme was pressng. The che reported
more ahead, and sad that he had sent on a party
o hs own natves to scour the country, and
order more men to go out or the same pur-
pose a round our ne t camp. Hence orward
we marched aong a better our- oot road,
betokenng the presence o vages hdden n the
bush a tte way back. A ew patches o smsm
and mahogo were vsbe at ntervas on the rsng
ground to the east. O game tracks there were
very ew, t on roundng a sharp bend n the
path we ound ourseves ace to ace wth a bu
bu ao ga ng ntenty at us to dscover who the
ntruders mght be that had broken nto hs so-
tude. Bu aoes are wonder uy uck o hearng,
and as he hadn't boted at the rst sound o our
approach, as hs knd usuay do uness prevousy
annoyed, I was a rad he meant msche to the
caravan, whch was we up wth us now that the
ground was drer. He had not a bg head, but
was o the Abyssnan speces, whch carres
smaer horns, but s every bt as nasty as the
Cape bu ao ound urther south. Agan the
Manncher proved ts worth, as he dropped where
he stood wth a buet n hs bran. We gathered
a terwards that he must have strayed rom hs
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
herd, as we came on the spoor o a consderabe
number eadng away rom the ake a short way
ahead. When cuttng hm up, we ound em-
bedded n the esh o hs hnd uarters two
barbed arrow-heads whch had been broken o
short, eavng ony the ron tps nsde two arge
esterng- sores. Ths accounted or hs trucuent
appearance, and showed that natves had been
a ter the herd. They pursue bu ao and ee-
phants at ths tme o the year wth posoned
arrows. Havng noseessy staked them, they
dscharge ther deady weapons rom cose uar-
ters and eave the wretched anmas to de a
ngerng death, trustng to beng guded to the
corpse by the sgn o the brds o prey whch
whee n the sky overhead. O course there s a
aw aganst ths, but, no matter how strngent the
egsaton be, so ong as there s no game ranger
to en orce t these atroctes w contnue, and the
beasts o the unge w contnue to su er. Some
there are who say that the Unyoro eephant w
de out, as they admttedy carry the bggest
tusks n Uganda and athough there are great
numbers o them, they are the more easy got at
rom Entebbe wth any certanty than any
other herds. On the other hand, a the herds n
the neghbourhood o Masnd, near Kanongo
and Panato, have been so tremendousy shot
at n the ast ew years that ther tempers have
been runed, and they are thereby n more or
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
ess o a t state to protect themseves though
even they cannot hope to stand up aganst a
modern power u cordte r e n the hands o
one o the boder sprts an ous to secure hs
vory.
The eephants and bu aoes n the Reserve
are protected rom the whte sportsman by the
natves, who ove to show ther ea towards
Government by reportng to the authortes every
case o eephant beng shot n any part, ether on
the chance o a reward or n ormaton receved,
or, as I strongy suspect, because they consder
these roya game ther own speca per uste as
n the od days o ndscrmnate saughter. I
shoud say that the cases o a natve reportng
another o hs own kth and kn or breakng the
game reguatons n ths manner are e tremey
ew and ar between, whst the numbers o
mportant beasts who are done to death n ths
noseess, secret, underhand way, woud be
surprsng ever they came out. Why, when
one meets a party o savages busy engaged n
cearng the path o weeds and undergrowth, one
notces by the roadsde ther bundes o bows and
arrows heaped together near the remans o ther
res, and on e amnaton a the arrows are ound
to be brght and sharp. I you ueston them
they make no bones about the matter, but te
you straght, Ths s the season or eephant
huntnor ! The natves do ar more harm n
o
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
a year than the whte man w do n three, and
trust to ther cuteness to avod detecton. There
s a knd o reemasonry among them where an
eephant s concerned. ou may send your
trusted ordery out to hs own vage where hs
ather and mother and a the rest o hs kth and
kn ve, to try and buy a sma cow eephant's
tusk as a curosty money or sheep down
and he' return wth the n ormaton that there
are none n the countrysde. It seems odd, but,
a ter a week's march, he w uety remark that
there were o course heaps, but they coudn't
dspose o them to the whte man, as he was
probaby o erng to buy on purpose to report
them and get them nto troube. By way o
ustraton, take the case o eephants that we
have a heard o , whch have got away wounded.
What becomes o ther tusks They get nto
the hands o the natves who barter them or
so many sheep and catte, and ute rghdy too.
But how many n comparson do they shoot them-
seves, and say they ound them dyng o a wound
by a r e-shot And who s to stop them so
ong as ths reemasonry contnues, e cept an
Engsh game ranger who goes about amongst
them, and, havng ganed ther respect, puts down
the practce wth a rm hand There are game
rangers and to spare n other parts o A rca or the
protecton o other sma game surey eephants,
whose vauabe vory orms such a arge porton
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
o Uganda's e port trade, need ookng a ter even
more, possbe, than other and esser beasts.
On reachng Buguno-u we ound that the aunch
and boats had not yet arrved, so we were abe
to turn our attenton to a herd o eephants whch
were wanderng about somethng- under teen
mes away. Ther spoor had been ound and
was beng oowed up, but two days' search aed
to ocate them wth any certanty. As they were
on trek at ths tme o the year, a march a ter
them woud have been somewhat o a wd-goose
chase t they setted down or a bt, added to
whch was the act that they had not been vewed,
and so there mght not have been a shootabe bu
amongst them. Accordngy, whst the search
partes were out, I turned my attenton to the
arge ocks o pnta and whstng tea whch
re uented a marshy corner near by. When en-
grossed n ths pastme my ordery became aware
o the presence o a sma schoo o hppo ds-
portng themseves n a shetered bay o Lake
Abert. Havng heard the report o the gun they
wsey kept too ar out to enabe me wth certanty
to brng o an e ectve shot, so some speca
pan had to be ormuated. We scraped a ong
trench n the sand we above water mark n pre-
paraton or the morrow, when we brought a ot
o natves wth us to try and hoa the hppo.
Havng got nto ths hoe wth one gun-bearer, I
sent a the rest o the mob away, teng them to
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wak aong the beach n u vew o the anmas.
Some men were posted we back out o vew to
keep anyone rom approachng our pace o con-
ceament, and we setted ourseves down to a ong
wat.
As the sun got hotter the hppo came coser n
to the bay, and began rsng to bow at ntervas
and ang agan, partay aseep. At ength
they seemed cose enough. I red at one o
them and heard the buet te wth a oud
smack on hs head ths was oowed mme-
datey by a tremendous surgng and bong o
the waters. Up came hs head agan n appa-
renty the same spot, and he sank ht agan,
turnng a somersaut n the water, showng hs
tte stout egs waggng hard. And then a
dread u thng happened ! I ound I had shot
an un ortunate baby hppo. So tte o them
show when they are aseep that t s e tremey
d cut to know what you are shootng at, and t
s ony when they see you, and there ore show
themseves hgher out o the sur ace, that you are
abe to pck out a bg one. A you have got to
go by s the ength o ther heads. I can ony
concude that my vctm must have come up n
the same ne bearng to me as one o hs
parents. Another d cuty was that they a
appeared to be seepng wth one eye a y ed
on the shore as though they eared danger, so
that they were a head on. I they had been
234
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', 3 3 3
3 3 3 3 3 3
3 3
t ,- 3
r-
' /'

--
M DEAR DOGS
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
n a rver, they woud probaby be acng d erent
ways.
However, t ddn't matter so very much, as the
carcase was speedy cut up and carred o by
the varous vagers n the neghbourhood. Ne t
mornng, when we were a packed up, the start
was deayed by one o my dear dogs beng
mssng. We ound hm more than ha stupe ed
by a sur et o dead hppo !
I started on my ourney wth two dogs one
the ncest bu-terrer Ra es I've ever had,
and the other a Bor o Dck . It was the
atter who had so dstngushed hmse , athough
he was ed twce a day reguary as they both
were, to prevent eaousy and o ten e t a arge
part o hs ood n order to go and stea any raw
bts o meat that mght be yng about camp.
They are aw u theves, I'm a rad, and nothng
can break them o t. They both survved the
trek, but aas ! Dck s no more the other s t
and happy and ourshng, not mndng the cmate
o Khartoum a bt. Dear od Ra es !
Once aboard the aunch and . . . any voyage
s very much ke another. We steamed by
day, and ted up n the evenng to gve the
men a chance o cookno- ther ood ashore and
to aow the engneer hs nght's seep. I used
to say orth o an evenng to try and provde
ood or the men and e ercse and sport or
myse , and to vary the monotony o a rver
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
voyage. Fresh meat was a vauabe asset or
one's own ktchen n a country where t was
mpossbe to buy sheep. An encounter wth a
whte rhno has been descrbed esewhere, and
another wth a vcous cow eephant was not at
a peasant. We had anded to cut wood to
repensh the stokehoe, when I came on the
spoor o eephant. A ter a short trek my depen-
dents came to a dead stop and swore they had
heard a crashng to our e t. I ute thought
ther nerves were on edge, as we had traversed
some nasty bush country. However, these peope
are very rarey deceved n the unge, so a ter
sendng a coupe o men to reconnotre the
supposed poston we sat down. Sure enough
there were eephant, and they had boted. Ths
put new e nto the proceedngs nstanter we
set about oowng up the tracks, whch ed
parae to the Ne. Soon the herd broke up
s cows and young went one way, and about ten
bus and cows another.
Some o these chdren o nature, who have
been brought up n these out-o -the-way spots
rom tte tots, are ute marveous n ther
reasonng powers when t comes to eephant.
They sad that these cows wth caves woudn't
and coudn't go very ar or ast, and woud, by
nstnct, be sure to on up wth the bus near the
rver, athough the others mght go some dstance
round at a good hard trot n a semcrce. As
26
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
they had not seen us, and as no shootng partes
had been that way atey, they woud not have been
greaty aarmed by our presence. We were, there-
ore, to pursue the cows and et the bus rp. It
seemed a unny method, but as the natves were
a agreed wthout any dscusson, I dd as they
had suggested. O course t was mpossbe to
say how ar the eephants had gone a ter ther
rst wd rush, but t was easy enough to oow
ther tracks, as they had made our path or us.
Eventuay we heard a grand dsturbance a short
dstance ahead, and a cow appeared on the scene,
bearng down on us at a ast wak wth her trunk
we up, sn ng the bree e. It was hard to know
what to do, as we ddn't want to harm her, and
yet she wanted our bood besdes whch, there
were the bus we were workng or not so very ar
o . Lucky she stopped and wated we dd the
same. She was stenng ntenty. We daren't
move backwards or orwards or ear o makng a
nose, as she was n u vew some twenty- ve
yards away wth her ears cocked. She ha
turned round and we shnned out as uety as
possbe. She heard us, and advanced agan n
a threatenng atttude and then we got cear.
We ne t crept through the unge n such a
drecton as to gve the cows a wde berth, and
at the same tme cut nto the remander o the
herd on the nes prevousy agreed upon. When
we had gone some way and thought the
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
coast was cear we moved rapdy. Naturay
the nose we made breakng through the dry
grass was consderabe, move as care uy as we
woud, and the upshot was another crash cose
by on our e t, caused by one o those n erna
cows turnng up once more. And ths was some
two mes rom the scene o our rst encounter.
Now she came up wth the dev n her eyes and
we saw n a gade two more cows acng us, wth
three caves hudded up under them.
It was ony another case o an eephant hunt
havng gone wrong. In our eagerness we had
mscacuated tme and dstance otherwse my
peope were per ecty correct n ther suppostons.
We ran ke rabbts rom ths aw u apparton,
hopng she woudn't eave her ca , and on our
way back to the boats cut nto the spoor o the
remander o the herd, evdenty makng or a
pont to meet our rends the cows. Then the
steam whste began soundng voenty, wakng
the echoes around, gvng us due notce that
the skpper was n a hurry to be o , so there was
nothng or t but to make tracks at once. It was
shockng uck, as, udgng by the ootmarks, I
am sure there was a bg bu, and ths was the
th dsappontment I had had. But there aways
s the bggest bu I've ever met m ed up n
any story n whch the herd get away !
No urther ncdent marked our ourney to
Nmue, where we dsembarked and prepared or
238
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
our wak to Gondokoro the ast trek n Uganda
I e pect I sha ever do. I don't know that I'm
atogether sorry n a way. It's true my rst
march through wth Church ended n the great-
est uck I've ever had beng attached to the
Egyptan army but, barrng trekkng, t's the ony
country I have ever been ute knocked over n,
as regards beng , snce I have served n the
East. Inda everyone knows : Somaand was
beaut y dry and heathy East A rca's cmate
s top hoe you can't wsh or a better any-
where n the Hghands but I'm a rad I don't take
away a good mpresson o Uganda, and I thnk
the ma orty o my brother o cers there w bear
me out. However, east sad soonest mended !
On eavng Nmue, I was determned to carry
out a pro ect that I had ong had be ore me.
Ths was to cross to the Congo sde o the Ne
and see what the country there was made o
It s the pece o and sc eased to the Begans
caed the Lado Encave. As t s to be taken
over by the Sudan Government when certan
contngences arse, I thought a tte knowedge
mght be o vaue.
The d cuty was to get across the Ne.
There was no one to say me nay over the way
but the rapds ormed a serous obstace, because
there mght not be canoe owners wng to cross
the turbuent waters. We, ths was accom-
pshed wthout any great d cuty, through the
239
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
medum o an od che whom I had met be ore,
and who barganed or a whoe hppo or hmse
to hs own cheek and one more or hs vage.
Rather e tortonate t may seem, but I saw them
oatnor dead be ore I asked hm to redeem hs
promse ! Su ce t to say that he was as good
as hs word. I won't state where we crossed, as
the dear od man mght get hotted, snce hs
acton was not ute n accordance wth the rues
but he payed the game up to the ht.
The Congo mountans had ong hed a great
ascnaton or me and what was beyond
A ter a rea hard day's work navgatng and
cmbng, we reached our temporary goa, and
shook down anyhow or the nght. Ne t morn-
ng the vew was spendd rom a eve rocky
spur we had happened to strke the nght be ore.
The mountan on whch we stood, eevated per-
haps a thousand eet rom the rver bed, was a
hgh cone that rose a tte n advance o that
range whch stretched or mes behnd us, as ar
as the western shore o the ake, unt, meetng
ts sster pes beyond the water, t ran o towards
the Congo n con used and broken masses o
rock, thny sprnked wth evergreens. Imme-
datey at one's eet the west shore o the Ne
swept n a broad semcrce rom mountan to
mountan, markng a wde strand that soon rose
nto an uneven and somewhat eevated pan.
To the north the rver stretched mpd, ndented
240
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8 3 1
1.1
A WOODED RANCE OK ROCK HILLS
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
wth numberess bays, embeshed by antastc
headands, and dotted wth countess sands. A
ew mes away the bed o the waters became
ost among mountans, or was wrapped n the
masses o vapours that came sowy rong aong
ther bosom be ore a ght mornng bree e. But
a narrow openng n the crest o the hs ponted
out the passage by whch the waters ound ther
way st urther north, there to spread ther pure
and ampe sheets agan n the sudd country. To
the south ay Du e, atey evacuated, wth ts
pam trees and ts runed houses. For severa
mes n ths drecton the mountans appeared
reuctant to yed ther domnon, but, wthn
reach o the eye, they dverged, and nay
meted nto the eve and sandy ands across
whch we had accompaned our gude. Aong
both ranges o hs whch bounded the opposte
sde o the rver and vaey couds o ght
vapour were ether rsng n spra wreaths rom
the unnhabted woods, ookng ke the smoke
o hdden cottages, or rong a y down the
decvtes to mnge wth the ogs o the ower
ands. The country had been ceared o wood
or a consderabe dstance round, as a vage ay
at our eet, but every other part o the scene
wore the green very o nature, e cept where
the mpd water meowed the vew, or the bod
rocks thrust ther back and naked heads above
the unduatng outne o the mountan ranges.
R 241
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
From the woods a tte arther to the south, rose
numerous sma couds o dark and urd smoke,
that were easy to be dstngushed rom the
purer e haatons o the sprngs, and whch I
marked down as evdence o another arge vage
n that drecton. The natves were, or the most
part, Kuku, but there was a ar sprnkng o
Moru and Makraka n the vages, owng, I
thnk, to the act o a arge consgnment o vory
havng been brought rom ar away nand by
the atter. The natves o the nteror here w
do anythng n ths underhand way to brng vory
nto Engsh posts, rather than to ther own
Began statons, so they tod me, as we gve
them proper prces, ether n con or mpements,
or what they brng, nstead o se ng t at a
mere nomna vauaton. The commodtes they
are most desrous o recevng n e change are
many sheep and catte, but n addton to these
they ke a ew natve so t-ron hoes maotes.
The dea o ten takes days o barganng be ore
an agreement s arrved at, but that s ha the
batte to the natves uness there has been a ot
o argument he consders that nothng has been
propery setted.
Once beyond the mountan wa shuttng down
the e t bank o the Ne, one enters upon an un-
duatng and o grassy pans and woods. These
evdenty teem wth game o a descrptons
n drer weather tte, however, was to be seen
242
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#
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
now, though we came across more herds than we
had met n Uganda. The country s not very-
popuous or ten mes back, those natves who
coud havng crossed to the Brtsh sphere o n-
uence some years ago. The ew vages near
the Ne are usuay the property o someone
who s wanted n Uganda, and who, havng
ed over the Ne, stays there wy-ny.
We shaped our course north-west, towards a
wooded range o rocky hs, whence we hoped
to obtan a orood dea o the con g-uraton o the
country. We marched as usua n snge e,
orcng our way through the tange o grass and
weeds. The dstance seemed some s mes
ony. Ths was as ovey a route as can be con-
ceved. Magn cent trees acacas , whose thck
dark oage drooped near the ground, were
grouped n cumps, sprngng rom the crevces
between arore bocks o rante. Brooks o the
purest water rpped over the tme-worn channes
cut through grante pateau , and as we hated to
drnk at the temptng stream, the water tasted as
cod as though rom a European sprng. The
entre country on our e t was a successon o the
most beaut u rocky unduatons and deep ver-
dant gades, at the bottom o whch owed peren-
na streams. The banks o these rvuets were
rchy cothed wth ornamenta tmber, the green
oage contrastng strongy wth the dark grey
bocks o grante whch resembed the runs o
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
ancent towers. We traveed aongr a knd o
hog's back whch ormed the watershed to the
west. We ascended, unt we reached a arge
pateau o cean grante o about two acres n
e tent, whence we obtaned a magn cent pano-
ramc vew o the whoe country. On the east
we ooked down upon the pans through whch
we had arrved, whch stretched ar away beyond
the Ne unt they meted nto the grey outne
o the dstant mountans. Havng descended
rom ths rocky pateau we care uy made our
way across a sppery channe that had been worn
by the sundry torrents o the rany season, and
once more arrved at eve ground. Upon our
e t a mass o bod runs, the skeeton grante
remans o a pershed mountan, whch ormed a
sheter rom the mornng sun, tempted us to hat.
On our rght we were hemmed n by a great wa
o rock, soped ke a huge whae, some ha a
me n ength and ty eet hgh. From the
southern e tremty o ths vast bock o ran-
washed grante rose the rocky and antastc h
o Muyu, crested wth ne tmber. Straght
be ore us was a dead at pan, the north end
beng marked by a curous and beaut u assem-
bage o mmense bocks o grante and spendd
groups o weepng acaca.
Two or three days spent n wanderng through
the country were a that coud be managed, as
there was a boat to be caught at Gondokoro, and
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#
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
tme was on the wng. We camped at nght as
hgh as possbe, or the sake o the vew as we
as to steer cear o the mos uto-haunted swamps.
But one o the pans we traversed was vast, and
the mud had cogged the eet o the tred porters,
so chancng upon a cear mountan stream en-
cosed wth shady trees we thought t good
enough to stop or the nght, at the oot o the
ast mountan range that barred our progress to
the Ne. The crossng o ths consttuted my
ast march n the Conoco.
o
Breakng camp at 4.0 a.m., t seemed as a
vast e tent o country ay bured n eterna
seep not the east sound arsng rom the
orest, uness t was the dstant and scarcey
audbe rppng o a watercourse. Brds, beasts,
and man ake appeared to sumber, ndeed
any human bengs were to be ound n that
wde tract o wderness. But the sounds o
the rvuets, eebe and murmurng though they
were, greaty ghtened the task o the gudes, and
towards these they made ther way. The moon
had aready sunk nto an mmense pe o back
couds, whch ay mpendng above the western
hor on, when we ssued rom the ow and dev-
ous watercourse to rse ag-an to the hg-h and
eve o the sandy but wooded pan. The path
soon became more uneven, and we coud pany
see that the mountans drew ngh to us on
ether hand, and that we were n truth enterng
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
one o ther gorges. The route was now pan-
u, yng over ground rugged wth rocks and
ntersected wth ravnes and deep wthn the
shadows that were cast by the hgh and broken
summts o the mountans. Beak back hs
ay on every sde o us, compensatng n some
degree or the addtona to o the march by
the sense o securty they mparted. At ength
we began sowy to cmb a steep and rugged
ascent by a road that curousy wound ts way
among rocks and trees, avodng the ormer and
ganng support rom the atter n a manner that
showed t had been devsed by men ong practsed
n the arts o the wderness.
As we graduay rose rom the eve o the
vage, the thck darkness whch usuay precedes
the approach o day began to dsperse, and
ob ects were seen n the pan and papabe
coours wth whch they have been g ted by
nature. When we ssued rom the stunted woods
whch cung to the barren sde o the mountan,
and ound ourseves upon a at and mossy rock
that ormed the summt o the chan, we met the
mornng as t came bushng above the green
downs o a h that ay on the opposte sde o
the vaey.
The recrossng o the Ne was comparatvey
easy, as we were abe to pro t by the knowedge
ganed durng the outward ourney to steer cear
o the more dangerous rapds and submerged
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1 ,
P
' :
IHI', I'AIH BEUA.M L.NK IN
ELETAM' LUUNTR ON THE BANKS UE UE NILE
seepage 233
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
rocks. Thus we reached Uganda sa e and sound
once more a ter a most deght u ten days'
trp.
The ne t thne to be done on our orward
march was to negotate the Assua rver. It was
certan to be much swoen by the rans, not n
actua ood, and woud n any case cause some
troube, as the swr o the current s aways great,
and arge numbers o crocodes come up rom
the Ne to e n wat and prey upon the game
gong down to drnk at the rver's edge. How-
ever, I was n ormed that there was a bg dug-
out canoe wherewth to transport our kt and
the odds and ends whch one coects on a ong
ourney.
The worst was n store or us. We arrved
drenched to the skn by a heavy ranstorm, and
stood shverng and shakng on the bank whst I
et o a gun to attract the notce o the canoe
men who ved on the urther bank. When they
appeared, t was to mpart the sad news that
the ony canoe avaabe had been washed away
the nght be ore owng to the sy ow n charge
o t havng nether pued t hgh and dry
enough to escape a ood, nor made t ast by a
rope. That s the savage mnd a over ! The
rver was we above the tops o the banks, and
to cross was ute out o the ueston. I mght
have swum t, and so coud a ew o the rest, but
the baggage ! There was nothng or t but to
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
st down n patence and send messengers to
scour the country or another canoe. We made
a cearng n the eephant grass, camped, and
cursed. At about ten o'cock ne t mornng
a canoe arrved but what a mserabe one ! It
was so narrow that not a snge bo coud be got
nsde, and the padder had to st on the top o t
to wed hs weapon wth any hope o success,
thereby renderng t more top heavy and wobby
than ever. We a agreed that t was unsa e
but somethng had to be done whatever we dd
meant a rea bad wettng. I strpped and ay
down, straddng the thng over the top, hodng a
dog swmmng n each hand, to see what woud
happen. Ra es behaved beaut uy, but Dck
got aarmed and upset the whoe show ve yards
rom the bank, so that method o crossng was
mpossbe. Then I went across by myse ,
yng n the bottom as baast. Even then the
canoe was dread uy wobby, and the e erton
e hausted the padder so much that t was ceary
absurd to suppose a the oads as we as
porters coud be got over n the day. So I tod
the man to take me over agan, back to the
sheter o my tent and the warmth o a bg re.
Then we empted our chop-bo es and ashed
them tghty to the sdes o the canoe, two abreast,
so as to orm a knd o outrgger to gve greater
stabty and stop the wobbng. We gave ths
arrangement a tra trp wth a heavy tent, myse ,
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
and my servant or a oad, to see what woud
happen. The dea proved e ceent, so we
returned and strengthened the contrvance wth
stout cross - peces o wood. Now the true
vaue o a reay good servant showed tse .
The man, a Swah, knew me and trusted me,
havng been n my servce or our years. He
took charge o one bank o the rver, whst I,
on the other, saw the thngs oaded up and
despatched. I there was any nonsense or deay
on hs bank the men knew a about t, wth
the resut that, startng at dawn, I ound a com-
ortabe camp wth a huge re, and dnner, ready
a ter the ast man had been got over. It was
a hard day's work, and neary spot by the bu-
terrer umpng overboard ha -way across and
beng washed away down stream n hs e orts
to re on hs master. Bu-terrers are the most
a ectonate anmas I know.
The other two rvers, the Uma and the Kt,
were ony wast hgh when we met them, so they
were mere chd's pay as compared to ths one.
We had been obged to cross the Assua on the
cart-road, at the pace where Church had made
the passage, as ower down near the Ne t was
deeper and ute mpassabe. Ne t day we made
tracks or the Ne once more, so as to ht o the
vage o my od rend Kuyu, the hero o the
hppo ncdent. There mght be eephant there,
so they thought, but t was mpossbe say wth
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
any certanty as these anmas move about n the
rans and sedom stop n one pace. Thus that
route was as good as any other, and moreover
the scenery was most mpressve, and woud we
bear ookng at a second tme. We had traveed
through the orest and o the upands we had
seen the dark chocoate s uares o ncpent cut-
vaton n bod ree aganst the green carpet at
our eet we had cambered down through orest
and crag to the ower eve, and were encamped,
en oyng a we-earned snoo e whe watng or
the return o the bands o natves who were
scourng the country round or spoor, when I was
awakened by a rough shake and the magc word
Tembo eephant . The whoe camp was st,
and one man a ter another crept n ke a mouse
to te me that a herd o eephants was waterng
on the ar sde o the Ne. About eghteen
o the great uadrupeds had come down to drnk
and were ceary vsbe some two hundred yards
away. Od ones and young ones, cows and
caves, and a very ne bu wth about 8o-b.
tusks. But and t was a very bg but they
were on the wrong sde, n the Congo. The
men knew I wanted ust one more eephant to
up my cence, so made no nose, but sat open-
mouthed, starng at the most nterestng and
mpressve sght. The eephants drank and
bathed themseves by s urtng water over ther
backs, as the rver was too sw t and deep there
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Bound or Khartoum Once More
to aow o ther gettng actuay nto t. One
youngster got t n the neck rom hs mother,
who beat hm severey wth her trunk or pre-
sumaby beng such an ass as to venture too
cose to the roarng ood. He retred crest aen,
s ueakng dsmay. There was nothng to be
done but to ook at them, and t s a pcture I
sha never orget. My porters got more and
more dsgusted at our nacton as I had brought
them a the way rom Bombo, and as they had
never been so ar north n ther ves be ore, they
coudn't be e pected to know that the opposte
bank o the Ne wasn't ours to pay n as we
ked, or to work our wcked w n by havng a
shot at such an apparenty easy prey. As soon
as they heard that nothng was to be done, and
that there was no meat n store or them, they
sgn ed ther dsapprova by hoots and whstes.
The peace u pcture over the way underwent
a sudden changre. It was ke a trans ormaton
scene. The eephants trumpeted and s ueaed
they charged and rushed about trees swayed
voenty to and ro bushes were smashed and
the grass was attened out the eephants ed !
I had bene ted by the sght, but my entourage
thought me a oo. Who cares
Ltte worth recordng occurred onwards to
Gondokoro and as the ourney thence by
steamer to Khartoum has aready been descrbed,
we w draw a ve over that as we.
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
Uganda s a ar sportng country, rst rate or
eephant huntng. Shoot n the neghbourhood
o Gondokoro t sn't worth whe huntng
urther a ed than some s ty mes rom there.
Don't go to Uganda n the rans. And ast, but
not east, watch the ever.
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I
FURTHER E PERIENCES
WITH ELEPHANT
I WAS trekkng north en route or Khartoum,
knowng u we I was n eephant country,
and that news mght be e pected at any
moment n the shape o the return o an
advanced scout wth khabar that a herd had
been ocated.
One day we ptched our camp under a arge
cump o nce shady thorn trees n a sma cear-
ng o short grass, beaut uy green, and ndented
wth the many tracks o game that nghty used
the water n the Ne n ths neghbourhood. My
entourage were happy, and we were at peace
wth a the word ute contented, n act. In
the mdde o the nght, whst I was ast aseep,
one o the terrbe thunderstorms whch are
common n these attudes burst rght over the
camp and woke us a. Up I umped and shouted
or the orderes to get nsde my tent and hang
on to the poes ke grm death, as the wnd had
rsen and t was bowng great guns. They get
used to these cmatc dsturbances, and know
that ther own sheter s rendered untenabe by
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
the wet they w be aowed to cur themseves
up on the oor o my tent a terwards.
A o a sudden, amdst the howng o the gae,
one o them sad, Tembo ! eephant . I sad,
Rot ! Mnd your own ob ! Sure enough,
when the storm had abated as suddeny as t
began we heard the trumpetng o a herd n the
dstance. Ths was spendd, as we had evdenty
stumbed ute by chance upon ther avourte
waterng-pace.
Ne t mornng out went the scouts, and cose
by came across eephant tracks, one o them
apparenty that o a goodsh bu. A bu's tracks
are very much bgger and onger than a cow's,
and t s sad the more crnkes there are on hs eet
the oder he s. These crnkes, whch are arge
warts, are very ceary de ned n dust, as, when
he ts hs eet rom the ground, the sucton o
the ar makes tte rdges o the dust round the
edge o these warts.
We, o we went but t was evdent, a ter
some hours, that they were o too. Perhaps they
had seen our camp res anyhow, they meant
movng, as a aong ther tracks were no sgns, n
the shape o te-tae broken trees and bushes pued
down, o ther havng ed. There was very tte
dung ether, as woud be the case they had
gone uety aong. These are some o the sgns
one earns by degrees to read when trackng
game n the unge. But our aure to overtake
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Further E perences wth Eephant
the herd ddn't much matter, as where that was
there were probaby others to be ound. So I
contented myse wth a cob or the pot, trustng
that natves woud brng us n news.
A ter dnner that nght a dsheveed savage
rushed n, wth hs eyes startng out o hs head,
sayng that a bg herd o eephant was hard at
work payng Od Harry wth hs patch o
cutvaton near by, and mporng me to go and
shoot them. He knew, so he averred, where
they ay up n the daytme, so we put hm o t
the morrow.
He was ute rght about eephant havng
pued hs pace to bts, though the bg herd
dwnded down to ve, but there were two bus
n t, whch put matters on a better ootng. We
started away hard on ther tracks to one or other
o two paces whch he sad were cose together,
and whch he woud show us. Thngs assumed
a much roser tnt when the tracks showed us that
the smaer bu and the three cows had branched
o and e t the bggest bu on hs own. I sup-
pose he had got -tempered and had turned the
others out. Ths, whatever the reason, was
spendd, as there was ony the one to thnk
about. From the tracks we coud see that we
were ganng upon hm. Hs dung was covered
wth myrads o es and was ute warm to the
touch nsde, whst t became wetter as we went
aong. Ths tod us he had been to water a ter
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
havng torn up the cutvaton, whch meant that
he was now on hs way to seep hs dnner o .
Soon we heard a crash ha -way up the h-sde,
whch here ormed somewhat o an amphtheatre
sopng down to the rver. The gude stopped
dead. F ! Another tearng, rendng sound.
Henak! Fok !
Then, havng got the drecton, we saw, three
hundred yards away, the branches o a sma tree
oscatng wdy to and ro, ucky oowed by
a smash. That was good enough there he was
at ast. But we wated or some ten mnutes,
care uy scannng the h-sde round ths tree n
case other bushes shoud be seen per ormng the
same antcs, whch woud have betokened the
presence o a herd.
But no ! A ese was st.
I may here say that I thnk the ony anma n
the unge that the savage s reay partcuar
about s the eephant : ths s by reason o the
vaue o the tusks, rather than because they
consder hm dangerous. our gun-bearer n
the presence o eephants w take the greatest
possbe care o the drecton o the wnd, and
w descend to any deta to eave no stone
unturned on the sde o cauton to brng you up
to the beast unperceved.
Now the rea busness o the day began. We
moved uety orward n the anma's drecton
or a hundred yards or so, takng up hand us o
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Further E perences wth Eephant
ne dust and ettng t trcke throug h our nders
to see whch way the wnd bew. There was so very
tte bree e strrng the eaves that ths precauton
was necessary. We we knew that once on the
h-sde the drecton o the wnd mght be ute
rom the opposte uarter, but we were takng no
rsks. It took us a good twenty mnutes be ore
our sweatng savage, cad ony n a bt o drty
rag and armed wth a ght throwng spear, sowy
e tended hs ore nger and breathed, wth a sgh
o ree , Aho ! He had per ormed hs part
o the operatons ath uy and we.
There was the eephant orty yards away.
Now t ony remaned to see how straght the
powder shot, or, n other words, how steady
master was wth hs r e. The wnd was a rght
or us to move ty yards ether way, but the
tusker was broadsde on, and a ne specmen nto
the bargan. A ew care u steps rom bush to
bush, and then a deght uy rendy tree trunk
gave me sheter wthn twenty- ve yards, whch I
thought cose enough. But I coudn't get a cear
shot at the hoow n hs head between the eye
and the ear-hoe, so I wated or hm to move n
ear u trepdaton that he woud sh t hs poston
atogether. Fve mnutes! Ten mnutes! I
ony he woud take a snge step orward to reach
a branch dangng n ront o hs nose ! He dd
and thereby e posed hs vunerabe pont. Nerves
were steady wth the ong ong wat t had
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seemed more ke ha an hour up went the
256, and down crashed the eephant. As uck
as thought my hand shot behnd me to grasp the
cordte r e that I knew I shoud nd shoved nto
t. A good gun-bearers are amost treadng on
ther master's coat-tas ! However, there was
no need or t. The Manncher had done ts
work, and the strcken monarch had entered nto
hs happy huntng grounds. ute a nce bu
too, wth tusks that turned out to scae 85 bs.
apece. Nothng very wonder u, but above the
average.
My oowers a rushed o to ca ther pas,
and anyone they coud rase n act, not e cudng
women and chdren, to come and hep cut the
tusks out, and a terwards to on n the wd orgy
that woud soon take pace on the ed o batte.
They woud spend the whoe nght and part o the
ne t day there cuttng up, cookng, and eatng as
ast as they coud orce the esh down ther
throats. I saw the tusks cut out and started o
to camp n charge o one o my orderes, havng
duy dspensed backsheesh to everyone who
had had a nger n the pe.
There was st the other bu wth the three
cows to account or. I got nto hs tracks, and, as
they ed rather n the drecton o my camp,
began oowng them up. Soon they turned
rght round and ed backwards rather towards the
recent scene o operatons. Then they seemed
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, 3 2
* 3
' . 5 5
A GOOD BULL ELEPHANT
/ atn sttng on hs head, on the edge o hs ear
THE PLEASING RESULI'S OF A GRAND DA S SPORT
see page 272
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Further E perences wth Eephant
to have stopped atogether beneath a cump o
bg shady trees. Branches were broken o and
ha strpped o ther oage, and the grass and
weeds were trodden nto a pup. On second
thoughts t occurred to me that ths spot was not
so very ar away rom where I had bagged my
eephant. The others mght have heard the shot,
as there was practcay no wnd. I descred
both my remanng orderes rngng round out-
sde the trees towards home.
Ths was the moment or master to show he
knew somethng, or or ever ook a oo n ther
eyes. I at once caed them up, gave them the
genera dea, e paned the speca dea, and
asty et myse go on the apprecaton o the
stuaton. O course the eephant had heard the
shot, to say nothng o the hubbub that ensued,
and so I n ormed my men that the anmas had
n a probabty ceared straght away, and
they cared to ook they woud nd ther tracks
somewhere over there, wth a gesture o the
hand towards home.
Wah ! They rushed o , and n about
two mnutes I heard them shoutng that master
must be a sort o boomng w ard, or he was
correct. It's so easy, you know ! But they ddn't
gather how t was done.
We, the tracks went on and on, and we o-
owed them t we got back n a ne wth the
camp about our mes away, and t was then
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o
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a
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s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
three o'cock n the a ternoon. udgng by the
sun-dred edges o the tracks we were not ganng
on the eephants, so t was evdent that they had
got the unks on board and meant gong. I
thought the matter over : one eephant n a day
wasn't so dusty we were not ar rom camp
those we were pursung woud eed that evenng
and probaby not go very much urther, as they
hadn't seen a man t was gettng ate I was
tred. So home was the order o the day, but
to-morrow o ered great possbtes.
To-morrow s not the worst word n the Engsh
anguage. It s synonymous wth e pectancy,
and, accordng to the od proverb, e pectaton s
better than rea aton when a s sad and done.
The great thng s that to-morrow s aways n
ront o one, whst yesterday s past and gone
wth ts mstakes, or ts oys, or ts sorrows but
who can te what to-morrow may brng orth
Round the camp re that evenng we were a
as happy as kngs, measurng, weghng, and
ceanng the tusks, the orderes crackng okes
wth the outsde savages who were havng ther
tummes ed wth good ood, and mbbng
arge uanttes o mevssa or natve beer that
had opportuney appeared rom nowhere n par-
tcuar. My cook had surpassed hmse n
honour o the occason and tak about good w
towards men, Chrstmas wasn't n t wth my
camp that nght !
260
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/
a
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s
s
_
u
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e
#
p
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1, *
3 B S
9 15 3
ELEPHANT COUNTR . IN THE BUDONGA FOREST
G
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s
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#
p
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G
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a
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d

o
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2
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o
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/
a
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Further E perences wth Eephant
A ths wd e n the open ar, when every-
body s content and tryng to hep everyone ese,
s conducve to peace, and sttng a y under the
stars o an A rcan nght n the unge wth every
com ort that can be obtaned under such cond-
tons, begets thoughts and memores o past scenes
and peope n ar d erent paces and countres.
I thnk I must wrte about memores put a ew
on paper and rather spread myse n the poor
endeavour! Thnk o a those od Indan days
n the hs or the pans, or the tme when one
was on Servce and was shot at nstead o beng
the ony attackng party, as I was ths a ternoon !
Thnk o a happy day n the tte vage or
an a ternoon on the rver, dr tng home n the
punt a ter a recherche dnner at some pretty
watersde cub at Heney the vared e ctements
o bg-game shootng a gaopng ch kka at poo,
or the wnnng o a race by a short head !
Isn't e worth vng There s no doubt !
That s a past and gone, maybe years ago
but to-morrow! n a ew hours! and t s aways
those ew hours that count. But I'm o the
pont. To-morrow came ute soon enough, and
was ated to bear epsodes n ts tran even more
e ctng than those o yesterday.
My pan o acton as regards the second bu
eephant was to set o very eary towards a rdge
o mountans some two thousand eet hah and
about three mes rom camp, whch was the
261
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/
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s
_
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e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
dvdng barrer between two bg broad vaeys
whch soped down to the Ne, to see we coud
not cut across the tracks o our ntended vctms
on the way. Ths procedure woud show us up
whch o these vaeys the bu and hs ades had
traveed, as they certany coud not have crossed
the mountan-top.
We had ound a path, and the eastern sky was
ust becomng tnged wth the rst ant ush o
eary dawn, when rom our rght ront we heard
a crack, and then another. I turned round and
saw my men wth ther ngers on ther ps. I
smpy coudn't beeve our uck n ndng the
eephants so soon and so near we were not yet
more than ha -way to the mountan. There was
no wnd, so we sat down and wated t there was
ght enough to see to shoot, whst one o the
gun-bearers dsappeared nto the bush or recon-
notrng purposes. He was back n a twnkng
wth the wecome news that t was a d erent ot
to yesterday's, namey, a bg bu and two smaer
ones.
What stupendous uck ! A bare orty- ve
mnutes rom camp! The eephants were un-
suspcousy eedng aong a sma watercourse
on the opposte bank to me, above the reeds
whch rnged ts rocky edge. It was an dea
pace or a shot, as the khor was some teen
yards wde ony, and practcay mpassabe to
them where they then were.
262
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s
_
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e
#
p
d
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u
s
Further E perences wth Eephant
We got nto poston, and agan had to wat, as
there was a thck bush between the bg one and
me, and t was no use makng a nose sh tng to
rght or e t on the shaky rock whch shpped
about at each step we took. A pu o wnd
came rom behnd us, as usua wth the dawn,
however, and though ony momentary was enough
to sette our hash. Up went ther trunks wavng
n the ar to ocate the tant o our sme, and
they began movng o at a ast wak, shu ng
aong n the noseess way that seems so curous
consderng the vast buk o these unwedy
brutes. I covered an open space that they woud
have to pass through wth my r e the heavy
one now as they were on the move and the bg
bu showed over the sghts. The barre was
rased a shade hgher, and I et hm have t n
the head, and down he thumped on the spot.
Number two, I thought, brought to book ! But
not so ! He staggered up agan and barged
o among the bushes and stunted trees, smashng
everythng to matchwood, reeng to and ro ke
a drunken man, wth the other two one n ront
and the other behnd hm trumpetng and
screamng ke unatcs at havng ther mornng
mea upset.
It s best to draw a curtan over my rame
o mnd at havng succeeded so beaut uy n
botchng the whoe thng but cursng was no
use, and t was better to get under wegh at once
263
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#
p
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s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
and oow hm up. He was very hard ht and
mght not be abe to trave ar, but on the other
hand he woud be n a shockng temper, and the
others woud be on the u vve to gve hm a
hand n warnng hm o the pro mty o danger.
So wthout wastng a moment we set o towards
a tree on the rsng ground or whch he appeared
to be makng. On cmbng ths tree our ordery
coud see nothng n the shape o an eephant,
and we were ust gong to cross the vaey ahead
here about a me broad on the chance o
vewng hm, when t struck me that t woud be
very much sa er and, athough sower, surer to get
on ther spoor and oow t up rather than dash
o hapha ard on hs supposed ne. I he was
bad he mght go down to the water, as they
o ten do, or not he mght trek hard n any
other drecton.
It was by the mercy o Provdence that we
dd strke ther tracks, as they went o n ute
the opposte way to that whch we had supposed
up one o the vaeys be ore mentoned. One
o my gun-bearers knew the country here very
we, and n ormed me that ths vaey ed nto
a cu-de-sac, where the hgh mountan rdge
e abrupty to the rver at one o ts deepest
paces, so that there was no chance o the anmas
beng abe to wade across on the shaows and
rapds as they o ten do. He coudn't understand
t, he sad, uness and here our droopng sprts
264
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s
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#
p
d
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u
s
Further E perences wth Eephant
revved the herd they beonged to were n ths
vaey. In any case, t was obvous that they
coudn't go so very much urther, and that we
shoud, at any rate, meet them agan. Good ! But
we shoud have to keep our eyes sknned we had
to take on the whoe herd wth cows and tte
ones. Bad! However, we woud trek on ke
smoke, and see what the gods had n store or us.
I sent an ordery to make a ank march up
aong the mountan-sde to sgna wth a whte
handkerche he saw them, and wth a red one
we got cose to them wthout seeng them.
Ths precauton was necessary, as the country
here was covered wth dense bush and stunted
trees, and t woud never do to stumbe upon the
n urated monster unawares. It was not ute
nce country !
The whte ag went up at once, and we kept
hard on ther tracks, t ute soon he rased the
red ag and ran to on us. Ths probaby
meant that the wounded monster was pretty sck
had ths not been so we shoud not have come
up wth them so soon. We kept sowy on so as
not to waste precous tme, t my man met us
wth the n ormaton that the bg one seemed
very sck and was wanderng amessy about n a
sma rocky depresson ute cose to us, but
hdden rom our vew by the bush. The man
ddn't know where the other two were, whch was
decdedy awkward, as they mght be on the ook
265
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#
p
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s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
out near by, and we mght tumbe over them
unawares. We crept aong, and I had ust turned
round to whsper a ueston to one o my o-
owng, when on our rght I saw the eephant's
head sowy toppng the edge o the stony hoow,
rsng hgher and hgher as he advanced towards
us, appng hs great ears to and ro, the pcture
o de ecton, and evdenty totay unconscous o
our presence. Then hs tusks appeared, and I
knew he was the rght one. Every ew steps he
stopped, ookng rst one way and then another,
tryng to make up hs mnd where to go. Then
he turned broadsde on and showed the vta spot
n hs head. There was no mstake ths tme,
and he measured hs ength on the ground. I
paced the dstance and ound t twenty-three
yards, and then gave hm an e tra one nto the
back o the head to make assurance douby sure.
Ths was ar better than I had at rst hoped
or, as a wounded eephant usuay goes or
mes, and we had bagged ths one a ter two and
a ha hours' work rom camp, and about nne
o'cock n the mornng. O course, my rst shot
had made hm very sck ndeed, as I ound on
e amnaton that the buet had ony mssed the
bran by a very tte, havng penetrated the bony
part o the head above t. It was ute enough
to have knocked hm down, but I don't know
that he woud have succumbed to the e ects.
But where were hs two companons o the
266
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/
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s
_
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#
p
d
-
u
s
Further E perences wth Eephant
mornng We heard no nose as o others
rushng o . A thng to bear n mnd when one
s eephant shootng, s that possby there are
others about, though they may be nvsbe so,
when you have shot one, don't hang about n
admraton, but go straght on, sendng an ordery
tearng ahead to see and hear what he can.
At the top o the ne t rse the country was
now much cut up wth broad nuahs and broader
rdges between I met a naked savage wth rong
eyebas, who mparted the oy u tdngs that a
huge herd was bss uy eedng down beow.
Ths was a bg thng, and no mstake !
A snge eephant s pretty terr yng, but
a huge herd! Was he sure How many
A hundred not countng young ones !
Ths meant, I e pected, orty or ty but
there were the nasty cross od cows to take
nto consderaton ths tme. However, there
was no use thnkng t we got cose up
to them. I brought my gasses nto pay on the
herd, and there they were, sowy eedng across
our ront, makng a great nose the whe,
breakng o and strppng the branches prepara-
tory to stu ng the eaves nto ther mouths.
The vaey seemed ave wth them. We sat
down on a rock and watched them through my
gasses passng aong ha a me away. es !
There was a bu and another and then a
group o our emaes wth three young bus
267
G
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2
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a
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s
_
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#
p
d
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u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
and then eght cows and young n a bunch.
They had amost got past, and were very neary
rght or us to make the wnd good.
Here's a better bu comng now ! rom my
savage. And wthout more ado the gun-bearers
took matters nto ther own hands, and ordered
me o on the chase once more. We took n nte
precautons. The savages were very care u
about the eephants, as usua, that they shoud not
get our wnd. There s another thng to bear n
mnd. When eephants are eedng, whch they
do whst sowy movng aong, t w be ound
that the argest bus, .e. those carryng the
heavest tusks, aways come ast and as they
eed up wnd, t suts one's book to a tck to
oow them on rom behnd n comparatve
sa ety, we n the rear o the herd, t one gets
a cear shot at the bggest bu.
On ths occason, though I had been sum-
mary ordered to move up to the herd by my
men, my retaners hung about and wated or
ages, t seemed, t they ac uesced n my en-
treates to get coser. At ast, a ter much
apparenty useess pokng about, they sad
Come on ! When once we had started agan
my head ordery turned and e paned that when
eephant are eedng sowy ke ths there mght
ute easy be some brute o a cow or young
ndependent bu aggng a y n rear or on the
anks o the herd.
268
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#
p
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s
Further E perences wth Eephant
ou never know, he a rmed and the
words were scarcey out o hs mouth when
a most appang scream rent the ar rght behnd
us, accompaned by a crashng and smashng o
unge some short way o .
What's that An eephant . . . prob-
aby a cow . . . got our wnd . . . comng or
us . . . there's a bu n the herd. . . . Do you
want t . * es! . . . What are we to do
Run ! . . . Don't shoot ! . . . so as not to
aarm the rest !
Run where Anywhere . . . get out o
her way . . . we' separate . . . and then run
round her . . . n a crce ... so that osng
our wnd she won't know where we are. . . .
Come on . . . run ! . . .
Run ! By Gad ! I've never egged t so ast
n a my pu ! Round bushes through grass
umpng over aen trees makng no end o a
row wth one ordery aongsde.
I stopped or a moment. Where s she
and ooked round, and rom behnd the nearest
bush saw a huge back nghtmare, wth great ears
stckng out on each sde and trunk wavng hgh
n the ar or a the word ke an ancent three-
decker ne-o -batteshp o Neson's day wth
studdng sas set bearng down upon me,
screamng, smashng, and stampng aong, a
vertabe uggernaut on demonaca msche bent.
Now ump sdeways, rom my ath u
269
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s
_
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e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
savage, and I ran gaspng at rght anges to our
prevous course, and e behnd the convenent
trunk o a orest tree, whst the n urated
monster thundered on her way between me and
my ordery, stoppng dead n another ty yards
or so as there was no more human sme to
pursue. However, I had heard o eephants
huntng one usuay ony wounded, t s true
and wasn't takng any, so, decdng that ths was
no pace or me, turned round and ed back
aong the way we had come, back n the drec-
ton o the man herd, bowng a coupe o basts
on my whste as I went to attract the other men.
The heat was st ng, and I mght have ust
emerged rom a Turksh bath, as what wth unk
and the tota absence o bree e n the grass I was
wet rom top to toe. Then we oned up and
coected our scattered wts, and I my shattered
nerves. The others took the whoe thng as
a ggantc est, as I dd a ter a bt, though I w
own t provded ood or thought at the tme.
My oowers were as keen as mustard, not
whoy on account o the customary '* back-
sheesh wth whch one rewards them or every
eephant san, but che y because o ths ate
epsode beng routed by a cow. One dashed
o a ter the herd, and returned wth the news
that they were st peace uy eedng, and that
there was ute a good bu bgger than ths
mornng's at the ta o the herd.
270
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#
p
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s
Further E perences wth Eephant
It was now about mdday, and I had recovered
my breath, so we went n pursut. There was
nothng o an untoward nature to ear now, as
any outyng anma woud have got our wnd or
heard the nose made by the n urated cow ong
snce and oned n our pursut.
There, sure enough, were severa great bg
bus, but no tusks worth havng. My n ormant,
whom I knew ddn't e, nssted that there was
a topper n the herd, so we moved graduay on
n ther wake, n and out amongst the trees, rst
one eephant appearng, and then movng o
uety to be repaced by another, t the urthest
o a batch o s showed hmse then I saw
that the ordery had not msn ormed me.
He was better than any I had shot up to date,
and evdenty the patrarch o the herd. It was
d cut to get a shot at hm, as he was so sur-
rounded by hs rends but at ast he came out
broadsde on and gave me the head shot, whch
was at once taken advantage o . He e to the
shot, and ay struggng on the ground tryng to
get up. Immedatey pandemonum ensued and
whst I was reoadng I dstncty saw two bus
sever themseves rom the remander, and, stand-
ng one on each sde o hm, pck hm up and
hep hm o as he staggered aong, throwng hs
weght rst on one and then on the other. How-
ever, at about thrty yards I managed to ht hm
twce near the ta wth my heavy cordte r e,
271
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#
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
and he coapsed never to rse agan, havng had
hs spna cord severed.
Hs two rends ooked round threatenngy or
a moment, as n seemng doubt whether to
make a brant charge n hs de ence, but, prob-
aby knowng nstnctvey that ther pa was
dead, they decamped n chase o the trumpetng
mob n ront, now ast dsappearng n a coud
o dust.
A ne od bu ths, and hs tusks proved to be
98 bs. and 93 bs. apece.
What a day ! Two good eephants shot an
e ctng epsode that mght have ended n a most
dsastrous manner, but ucky ddn't and some
odd e perences n ther habts, partcuary the
ast phase n wtnessng a wounded bu beng
taken away supported by hs two rends and
a ths compressed nto some eght hours !
Ths woud a ord endess chat over my camp
re. But the rst thng was to get back there.
It was ar too ate to dream o hackng out the
tusks o ether anma that day, eave aone both
so, there beng ew, any, natves about n that
part, we decded to eave our vctms, each n
charge o a coupe o spearmen, that nght, return
ne t mornng wth penty o peope armed wth
a es and country knves, and brng the our
tusks n together. I the neshbourhood s at a
popuous ths s a dangerous pan, because no
one knows the vaue o vory better than the
272
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s
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#
p
d
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t:%-
THE CUTTING UP
yott'cc the varts on hs /ore- cct
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#
p
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G
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t
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/
a
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s
s
_
u
s
e
#
p
d
-
u
s
Further E perences wth Eephant
savage, and the sound o the shootng havng
attracted them, they w wat t one has gone
home, then set to work, and the tusks w be ar
away ne t day.
But I w cut a ong story short by addng
that these partcuar tusks duy reposed under
the ag o my tent the oowng evenng, though
the e tractng o them proved a hot ob under
the burnng orare o the sun.
273
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#
p
d
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u
s

BURCHELL'S, OR WHITE
RHINOCEROS
I HAVE reated the story o my rst meetng
wth ths redoubtabe anma anteduvan
I amost caed hm when on my trp down
the Ne wth Church. A the way back
I tred and tred, and hunted n a the paces
where whte rhno were key to be encountered,
and saw tracks nnumerabe, but never the brute
hmse .
On ths ourney I was put on to a new pace
where one o ths speces had been seen be ore
and e t aone, and had snce been seen agan.
Ths sounded good enough, so I started out one
ne day.
We trekked aong, oowng a we-worn hppo-
path rom the water's edge, through thck bush,
graduay thnnng out t we reached the hgher
ground about a coupe o mes rom the Ne.
As ths was dea rhno country, I had e tended
my orderes we on each ank to keep a sharp
ook out. We dsturbed numerous herds o water-
buck and Uganda cob, but shorty be ore sundown
had to turn our ace towards the camp wthout
274
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#
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whte Rhnoceros
havng come across the ob ect o our e pedton.
I had taken out ha a do en porters wth a es,
or use n the event o our ang n wth a
rhno they a oowed us, marchng some ha
a me n the rear. ust as I had red at a cob
or the arder, one o them rushed up and begged
me to return, as he had ust seen a hppo ast
aseep under a tree. I thought ths very odd, as
no se -respectng hppo woud thnk o eavng
hs watery astness or at east an hour or more,
but on cose n ury I gathered that the supposed
hppo had a very ong horn on hs nose.
A rhno, o course, and probaby the dentca
anma we were n search o ! It's per ecty mar-
veous how tte the ndspensabe but gnorant
porter knows about any anma he may see. It
was ten mnutes ago, he sad, but t had ony ust
occurred to hm to run and te us !
Back I went, hard a. The porter who had
brouo ht the news, and who returned wth me to
ocate the tree, grew greener and greener about
the gs, t at ength he ndcated the pace
where the anma ay. He then sank speechess
behnd an ant-heap n evdent terror.
It was rapdy gettng dark, but we hadn't
moved many steps be ore my ordery ponted out
what ooked ke a bush but t moved. Ths
was, as I had e pected, a vertabe whte rhno,
wth two beaut u horns, advancng on the pos-
ton I at once took up behnd a stout tree. I
275
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/
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#
p
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s
Lake Vctora to Khartoum
aowed hm to come ute cose on account o
the rapdy ang ght, and when hs head went
down to gra e, pued the trgger so as to ht
hm n the neck.
He e to the shot tweve yards away, got up,
spun round ke a tee-to-tum, s ueang bue
murder the whe, and dsappeared n a coud o
dust. I must have ht hm too ow on the
hardest and thckest part o hs orehead as he
aced us, and so he got o wth tte worse than
a bad headache.
Curses The ar went bue or mes ! I was,
o course, a doube-dsted donkey or havng
chanced a shot so ate n the evenng but then
the rhno mghtn't have been there ne t day,
you see and he vas so cose. I honesty be-
eve most peope woud have acted n the same
manner, and have tred ther uck, nstead o
eavng an anma they partcuary wanted t
a probematca to-morrow. There's many a sp,
however and t shows how easy t s to mss
one's mark n the dusk, eave aone moonght !
At ast ! at ast ! ! I am abe to say that I
have had the good ortune to bag a whte rhno.
A ter many days' sweatng and savng a ter
marchng hours at a tme n the van endeavour
a ter havng been brouoht rst-rate khabar a ter
havng had the two chances mentoned be ore.
276
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Whte Rhnoceros
At ast ! ! ! When I had ong gven up the
dea as hopeess magnng that I was not
ated to get one o these monsters that they
had conspred amongst themseves to keep out o
my way, even n ther own avourte ocates
that I wounded one, he woud go on and
on, and thus wear out the prescrbed duraton o
my stay. Every devce had aed, even heavy
brbery o the natves, to nd one or me : t, as
I sha now reate, n a most une pected pace,
where the country round had been harred and
thoroughy dsturbed n my pursut o eephant,
one appeared as by magc under my very
nose.
I happened one ne day a ter tea to be pen-
svey strong aong wth my r e one never
eaves t at home under any crcumstances up a
sma, rocky, dry khor, rnged on ether sde by
dense thorn thckets on the tops o the steep
banks. The chatter o the brds n the trees
overhead and the vared hues o ther pumage
had kept me nterested durng my wak, and I
was ust pokng about n search o the ar o
a curous speces o ed-mouse, when crunch !
crunch ! round a corner n the nuah came a
rhno. From the rdcuous to the subme !
He had, I magne, been saunterng aong on
hs way to water wth a deberaton e ua to my
own. Be ths as t may, we ound ourseves ace
to ace some twenty paces apart. I was ute as
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
started as he was. We stood or uy ha a
mnute stupdy starng at one another be ore he
rea ed that I was a specmen o hs sworn
enemy, man and I, that he was one o the rare
whte rhnos.
The great brute, a ter ponderng the matter
care uy n hs dense, pg-ke ashon, evdenty
came to the concuson that he had tte desre
or urther ac uantance, so turned hs unwedy
carcase n the narrow way. I had by ths tme
gathered my scattered senses su centy to turn
o the sa ety-catch o the r e, and et drve at
hs neck whch he o ered to my shot as he turned
to dsappear. The buet took mmedate e ect
he measured hs ength on the oor, and ay ke
a huge dark bouder on the shmmerng sand.
Ths was great good ortune, or, as I have sad,
a thoughts o whte rhno had vanshed ages
be ore, and the uck n even settng eyes on one
was tte short o stupendous.
However, there he ay n a hs gory. Whte
be hanged ! grey-back n coour, nstead o the
pan back o hs East A rcan brother s uare-
pped ke a cow the s uare p s hs speca
sgn-manua and the owner o two nce horns,
the anteror one beng 36! nches. A trophy to
be proud o .
The hackng o o the horns took some tte
whe, so that by the tme they were ready
twght was begnnng to a. Meanwhe I had
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whte Rhnoceros
gone on n ront, and was some way on my return
ourney to the rver havng e t the carcase
to be cut up on the morrow when I heard a
crash n the bush borderng my path, mmedatey
oowed by another, and then a thrd !
The banks o the Ne, be t noted, are here
very much overgrown wth dense undergrowth.
Ths gets thcker and graduay merges nto orest
as one approaches the rver. I had, there ore,
no noton as to what was advancng towards me.
The resut was an attack o unks, whch became
graduay worse and worse, as I e pected to
have an eephant, or at east another rhno, to
contend wth, now amost by the ght o the
moon.
And st the sound got coser, and I became
more aarmed. Nearer and yet nearer drew the
dread u nose sounds aways appear to be
ouder and more rghtenng n the st nght and
I grpped my r e, prepared to do or de, when a
good Brtsh Damn! broke the aw u sence,
and out stepped my companon o the aunch
the trusty engneer !
Tak about ree to one's eengs ! By Gad !
Try beng out n the unge n the twght that
s momentary growng nto darkness not an
Engsh tworht, whch asts or more than ha an
hour at the east, but a goom whch w be ptch
back nsde o ten mnutes and see what t ees
ke, and what sort o a game t s, beng sup-
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
posedy on the verge o comng ace to ace wth
a huge anteduvan anma at that hour n hs
own astnesses !
Immedatey on my arrva, the news spread
through the camp that there was a rhno to be
eaten. My tent was beseged wth eager porters,
not necessary hungry, but a an ous to get
ther bt, whch beng nterpreted meant that once
they coud get at the carcase they woud stu
themseves so u that a hope o a move on the
morrow woud be out o the ueston. Durng
my bath I was consderaby bothered by them,
whst to shave was mpossbe t 1 tod them
where the carcase was.
I' de y anyone to wed the od- ashoned ra or
none o your new- anged garden rakes or me
wth sa ety whst a mob o savages are makng
acetous remarks about the operaton. The
savage can never make out why the whte man
wastes such a uantty o soap ony to scrape t
o agan.
We, I tod these gentry that the carcase was
a ong way out, and that they had better wat t
the morrow but, notwthstandng ths, and ther
customary ear o beng eaten up by some noc-
turna beast o prey, the camp was practcay
deserted that nght and on my return to the
spot ne t mornng, the sght o these savages
ba es descrpton. Su ragettes weren't n t
wth them !
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whte Rhnoceros
Meat n genera appeas to ther stomachs, and
n spte o ther a-nght sttng I saw a sod
mass o ha -naked men ourshng ong, sharp
knves, yeng, shoutng, and screamng at the
top o ther voces, tearng, hackng, and hewng
at the boody and dsheveed carcase. Great
coarse peces o gory esh were beng thrown
about the hghy-pr ed stomach had ong snce
vanshed knves drppng wth bood were
geamng and sashng round the manged remans
n the most dangerous way n every avaabe
spot whst some o the company, who had not
been ucky enough to retan a ront seat at ths
deectabe orm o amusement, were pushng and
tryng to cmb over or orce a way under ther
more ortunate comrades n ront. Others con-
tented themseves wth thrustng ther ong sharp
weapons over the shouders or between the egs
o ther companons who were nearest, them-
seves drenched n bood and n'ards rom
head to oot. Some were actuay struggng
man uy nsde the carcase tse .
I one's ssters or one's cousns or one's aunts
were to wtness a scene ke ths, I woud back
them to y shrekng to the prvacy o ther tents,
there to te themseves up and pray or mercy at
the hands o these presupposed cannbas, whose
appette or bood woud, presumedy, be we
whetted by the tme ther orgy had termnated.
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I
WATERBUCK
CO BUS DEFASSA SING-SING
Arabc : Abu Usu .
THERE s ony one varety o ths
beaut u buck to be ound on the
Whte Ne, the Sng -Sng. We
have e t the common waterbuck
Cobus eypprmus ar behnd us n Brtsh
East A rca and ar to the southwards so there
are no dread u conundrums to be soved here as
to whch varety s whch, or where whch s
ound, as may be sad to e st amongst some o
the other anmas descrbed.
Anyone who has been out or a day wth the
Devon and Somerset a ter the red deer on E -
moor woud be mmensey struck at the e tra-
ordnary keness n genera coourng, as we
as n bud and shape, o the red deer to ths
gorous buck and so at rst sght he shoud be
unmstakabe to the stranger. But there the
keness ceases, as hs horns are ute d erent,
spreadng sghty backwards and outwards, up
and then rather towards one another thck and
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Waterbuck
heavy rnged at the bases, they run to 30 nches
and 35 nches. Some are even onger. ute
recenty one o the members o the Ango-Congo-
ese Boundary Commsson tod me that he had
bagged one o 40 nches. I am not certan that
he dd not say 42 nches. Ths was way down
South on the Semk rver, whch wanders
through the orests, reposng under Rewen or's
snow-cad peaks.
He s a beaut u anma, and hs head makes a
remarkaby ne trophy, but hs esh, aas ! s
not or you or me. It s too strong or us, but
the homey porter reves n t, and aso n hs
skn, whch s care uy dvded up by master n
camp n the evenng and dstrbuted amongst
those men who have worn through ther sandas.
The skn s tough, and saves ther eet rom the
thorns and stones, whst when marchng n water
or on the s rass these sandas are taken o and
attached to the owners' bets, so as to save them
or a rany day.
He s commony met wth throughout any
ourney n these attudes, and, as hs name
mpes, never at any very great dstance rom
water. They may be seen together n a arge
mob o , say, twenty or so or, on the other hand,
perhaps ony ve or s w be ound gra ng
away rom water at dawn n the sheter o some
rendy trees under whch they propose to snoo e
away the heat o the day, t n the evenng
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
back they w wander, uety strong down to
the water agan.
ou w usuay nd they are pote and par-
tcuar n aways gvng way to the ades n
these day processons, or the smpe reason
that the ru any od brutes take oy good care
to send ther wves and daughters aongr ahead to
pck up any dangerous on or what not be ore the
danger pcks up them.
They have very good eyesght and can spot a
movng ob ect a ong way o , whst a wh o
tanted wnd sets them o wthout much chance
o ther stoppng or some tte way. However,
a ter ther rst wd rush or, say, ty yards, there
s every possbty o one or other o them stand-
ng to have another ook and make assurance
douby sure as to who or what you are. That s
the tme so be sure and stand uety watng
or that chance nstead o runnng amessy about
and gettng short o breath and there ore shaky.
I you shoud see a ot o emaes standng
about gra ng but no buck, have a good ook
a round and t's ten to one you w nd hm
yng on the shady sde o a bush t t s tme to
wake up. A snge buck eedng aong or seen
down at the water w n a probabty be a
bg one much bgger than those wth ames.
That act has been corroborated tmes wthout
number. Ths s the anma you want as your
specmen none o those ha -s ed, undergrown
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Waterbuck
others. By the way, a waterbuck's head s apt
to be very deceptve when you are tryng to make
up your mnd whch o two or three to shoot as
beng the bggest. They are reay dread uy
d cut. A head, thck at the base ony, that
does not come n at the tps s too young and
ute sma a head that seems bg and whose
tps amost touch s ute sma but the head that
sn't too thck and whch has sghty more than
a sembance o tryng to meet at the tps s the
one. A ths sounds d cut, but t s worth
rememberng. The two ormer heads w usuay
be ound wth the does and kds the atter wth
perhaps two or three does, or more key by
hmse . Another thng : you may o ten meet a
herd o rom teen to twenty bucks wthout a
snge doe. The smaest o these w have such
tny horns that anybody coud see the owners
woud be ute unshootabe and the argest
w udgng by the smaest there ore appear
to be carryng a tremendous head. Don't you
beeve t! Leave the ot aone. It s rather
curous, though, what such a ot o bucks are a
dong together. Probaby a ew od stagers have
appeared to two or three herds at once and gven
a hs younger rends the order o the boot.
He s ound anywhere near any rver n Uganda
or on the Ne, and s met wth n ute e tra-
ordnary numbers on the Bahr-e- era n the
Sudan.
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UGANDA GAME ORDINANCE
No. 9 o 1906
Game
1. Ths Ordnance may be cted as The Uganda
Game Ordnance, 1906.
2. In ths Ordnance The Protectorate means the
Uganda Protectorate.
Hunt, k, or capture means huntng, kng, or
capturng by any method, and ncudes every attempt
to k or capture.
Huntng ncudes moestng.
Anma, save as heren e pressy provded, means
mammas, and brds other than domestcated, but does
not ncude reptes, amphba, shes and nvertebrate
anmas.
Game means any anma mentoned n any o the
Schedues.
Pubc O cer means a European O cer n the
pubc servce o the Uganda or East A rca or an bar
Protectorates, or on the Superor Estabshment o the
Uganda Raway, or an O cer o one o Hs Ma esty's
shps on the East A rcan staton, or a European
O cer n the pubc servce o the Sudan Government.
Natve means any natve o A rca, not beng o
European or Amercan race or parentage.
Setter means a person or the tme beng resdent
n the Protectorate, not beng a pubc o cer or a
natve.
Sportsman means a person who vsts the Pro-
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tectorate whoy or party or sportng purposes, not
beng a pubc o cer, setter, or a natve.
Coector means the prncpa Cv O cer n
charge o a dstrct o the Protectorate.
Schedue and Schedues re er to the Schedues
anne ed to ths Ordnance.
Genera Provsons
3. No person, uness he s author ed by a speca
cense n that beha , sha hunt, k, or capture any
o the anmas mentoned n the Frst Schedue.
2 No person, uness he s author ed by a speca
cense under ths Ordnance, sha hunt, k, or capture
any anma o the knds mentoned n the Second
Schedue the anma be a mmature or b a emae
accompaned by ts young.
4. No person, uness he s author ed under ths
Ordnance, sha hunt, k, or capture any anma men-
toned n the Thrd Schedue.
5. The Commssoner may, he thnks t, by Pro-
camaton, remove any anma rom any o the Schedues,
or decare that the name o any speces, varety, or se
o anma, whether beast or brd not mentoned n any
Schedue hereto, sha be added to a partcuar Schedue,
or that the name o any speces or varety o anma
mentoned or ncuded n one Schedue sha be trans-
erred to another Schedue, and, he thnks t, appy
such Procamaton to the whoe o the Protectorate, or
to any Provnce, Dstrct, or other area.
6. Save as herena ter provded no person sha
e port rom the Protectorate or sae or sha wthn the
Protectorate se, or purchase, or o er or e pose or sae
any head, horn, bone, skn, eather, esh, or any other
part o any anma mentoned n any o the Schedues,
uness such anma has been kept n a domestcated state.
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2 Save as herena ter provded no person sha
coect, e port rom the Protectorate or sae, or sha
wthn the Protectorate se, or purchase, or o er or e -
pose or sae any ostrch egg uness the ostrch has been
kept n a domestcated state.
3 No person sha knowngy store, pack, convey, or
e port any anma, or any part o any anma or any
ostrch egg whch he has reason to beeve has been
obtaned n contraventon o ths Ordnance.
4 Ostrch eggs, or any anma or any heads, horns,
tusks, skns, eathers, or other remans o any anmas
mentoned n any o the Schedues hereto sha be
abe to or eture they have been obtaned n contra-
venton o ths Ordnance.
5 Notwthstandng anythng contaned n ths
secton any ostrch eggs or any heads, horns, tusks,
skns, eathers, or other remans o any anmas men-
toned n the Schedues may be sod n the oowng
cases and under the oowng condtons :
a I they orm part o the estate o a deceased
person, by the Admnstrator Genera or per-
sona representatve o such deceased person,
wth the consent o the Court grantng probate
or admnstraton, and on payment o such ee
as the Court drects, not e ceedng 20 rupees,
d I they have been or eted, by order o the
Commssoner or o the Court by whch they
have been decared to be or eted.
6 In any sae under sub-secton 5 o ths secton
purchasers sha n every case be gven a cert cate
spec yng the artces and decarng that they have
been aw uy sod under the provsons o ths Ord-
nance, and such cert cate sha be evdence that the
purchaser has not obtaned the artces n contraventon
o ths Ordnance.
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Game Reguatons : Uganda
7 Nothng contaned n ths secton sha prevent
the sae, purchase, trans er, or e port o eephant vory
or hppopotamus tusks whch have been obtaned wth-
out a contraventon o ths Ordnance.
8 When any anma mentoned n any o the
Schedues hereto s ked by accdent, or when the
carcase or remans o any anma sha be ound, the
head, horns, tusks, and eathers o such anma sha
beong to the Government
Provded that the Commssoner may wave these
rghts n any case as he may deem t and,
Provded that the Commssoner may drect the pay-
ment to any person or persons so kng or ndng such
compensaton as sha cover the cost o transport o any
vory to the nearest staton and,
May drect rewards to be pad or the ndng o
vory.
7. Save as herena ter provded, any person ound
n possesson o , or seng, trans errng, or e portng, or
attemptng to se, trans er, or e port any mae ee-
phant's tusk weghng ess than eeven pounds or any
emae eephant's tusk, or any peces o vory whch, n
the opnon o any o cer engaged n the cv admns-
traton o the Uganda Protectorate, ormed part o a
mae eephant's tusk under eeven pounds n weght, or
o a emae eephant's tusk, sha be guty o an o ence,
and sha be abe to a ne not e ceedng 1000 rupees
or two months' mprsonment o ether knd, or to both,
and the tusk or parts o a tusk sha be con scated un-
ess the Commssoner sha otherwse order.
2 Provded that the Commssoner or any person
author ed by the Commssoner n that beha may
possess, se, or trans er wthn the Uganda Protectorate
or may e port rom the Uganda Protectorate any vory
beongng to the Government or con scated under the
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provsons o ths Ordnance or o any Reguaton or
Ordnance repeaed by ths Ordnance.
3 A such vory possessed, sod, trans erred or
e ported under the provsons o the ast precedng
sub-secton sha be dstnctvey marked wth such
mark and n such manner as the Commssoner by
notce pubshed n the O ca Ga ette may appont.
4 The purchaser or trans eree o any vory so sod
or trans erred under the provsons o sub-secton 2 o
ths secton sha aw uy possess such vory and may aw-
uy e port such vory rom the Uganda Protectorate.
5 The provsons o sub-secton o ths secton
sha not appy to any vory aw uy possessed by any
person at the date o the pubcaton o ths Ordnance,
provded that such vory sha wthn three months
o the pubcaton o ths Ordnance be produced or
sent to the nearest Coector who sha mark such
vory wth such mark and n such manner as the
Commssoner may appont.
8. No person sha use any poson, or, wthout a
speca cense, any dynamte or other e posve or
the kng or takng o any sh.
9. Where t appears to the Commssoner that any
method used or kng or capturng anmas or sh
s unduy destructve, he may, by Procamaton, pro-
hbt such method or prescrbe the condtons under
whch any method may be used and any person
uses any method so prohbted, or uses any method
otherwse than accordng to the condtons so pre-
scrbed, he sha be abe to the same penates as
or a breach o ths Ordnance.
10. Save as provded by ths Ordnance, or by any
Procamaton under ths Ordnance, any person may
hunt, k, or capture any anma not mentoned n
any o the Schedues, or any sh.
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Game Reguatons : Uganda
Game Reserve.
11. The areas descrbed n the S th Schedue
hereto are hereby decared to be game reserves.
The Commssoner, wth the approva o the Secretary
o State, may by Procamaton decare any other
porton o the Protectorate to be a game reserve, may
de ne or ater the mts o any Game reserve, and ths
Ordnance sha appy to every such game reserve.
2 Save as provded n ths Ordnance, any person
who hunts, ks, or captures any anma n a game
reserve, or s ound wthn a game reserve under crcum-
stances showng that he was unaw uy n pursut o
any anma, sha be guty o a breach o ths Ordnance.
3 The Commssoner may by notce, to be pubshed
as drected by hm, e empt rom protecton any anma
n a game reserve.
4 For the purpose o ' ths secton the term anma
sha be deemed not to e cude reptes, amphba,
shes, and nvertebrate anmas.
Lcenses to Europeans, etc.
12. The oowng censes may be granted by the
Commssoner or any Coector or such person or
persons as may be author ed by the Commssoner,
that s to say :
A Sportsman's cense
2 A Pubc O cer's cense
3 A Setter's cense
4 A Landhoder's cense and
5 A Brd cense.
The oowng ees sha be payabe or censes, that
s to say, or a Sportsman's cense 750 rupees, or a
Pubc O cer's cense or a Setter's cense 150 rupees,
or a Landhoder's cense 45 rupees, and or a Brd
cense 5 rupees.
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Every cense sha e cept as herena ter provded be
n orce or one year ony rom the date o ssue.
Provded that a Pubc O cer's cense may be
granted or a snge perod o 14 consecutve days
on payment o a ee o 30 rupees but no other such
cense sha be ssued to such o cer wthn a perod
o tweve months rom the date o ssue o such cense.
Every cense sha bear the name n u o the
person to whom t s granted, the date o ssue, the
perod o ts duraton, and the sgnature o the Com-
mssoner, Coector, or other person author ed to grant
censes.
The appcant or a cense may be re ured to gve
securty by bond or depost, not e ceedng 2,000
rupees, or hs compance wth ths Ordnance, and wth
the addtona condtons any contaned n hs cense.
A cense s not trans erabe.
Every cense must be produced when caed or by
any o cer o the Protectorate Government, and any
cense hoder who as wthout reasonabe cause to
produce t when caed or sha be guty o an o ence
aganst ths Ordnance.
In g-rantng censes under ths Ordnance a Co-
ector or any person author ed to grant censes sha
observe any genera or partcuar nstructons o the
Commssoner.
13. A Sportsman's cense and a Pubc O cer's
cense respectvey author e the hoder to hunt, k,
or capture anmas o any o the speces mentoned
n the Thrd Schedue, but uness the cense other-
wse provdes, not more than the number o each
speces ed by the second coumn o that Schedue.
The hoder o a Sportsman's or Pubc O cer's
cense granted under ths Ordnance may by the
cense be author ed to k or capture addtona
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Game Reguatons : Uganda
anmas o any such speces on payment o such add-
tona ees as may be prescrbed by the Commssoner.
The Commssoner may n speca cases grant, at
a ee o 150 rupees, a Sportsman's cense to a person
entted to take out a Setter's cense.
14. A Setter's cense author es the hoder to hunt,
k, or capture anmas o the speces and to the
number mentoned n the Fourth Schedue ony.
15. A Pubc O cer's cense sha not be granted
e cept to a Pubc O cer, and a Setter's cense sha
not be granted e cept to a Setter, but a Sportsman's
cense may be granted to a Setter.
2 The hoder o a Setter's or Landhoder's cense
may surrender hs cense and take out a Sportsman's
cense and n such a case the sum whch has been
pad n respect o the surrendered cense sha be
deducted rom the sum whch such person woud
otherwse be re ured to pay or a Sportsman's cense
provded that a Sportsman's cense so granted sha
e pre on the same date as that on whch the sur-
rendered cense woud have e pred and that a
anmas captured or ked under the surrendered
cense sha count towards the anmas whch may be
captured or ked under the Sportsman's cense.
16. Shoud the hoder o a Pubc O cer's cense
cease to be a Pubc O cer durng the currency o such
cense hs cense sha thereupon e pre.
Provded that the person whose cense has e pred
under the provsons o ths secton aone takes out a
Sportsman's cense the sum whch has been pad by
such person n respect o the cense so e pred sha
such person so eects be deducted rom the sum
whch he woud otherwse be re ured to pay or a
Sportsman's cense.
Provded that n such case a anmas ked under
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the cense whch has so e pred sha count towards
the anmas whch may be ked under the Sports-
man's cense, and the Sportsman's cense sha e pre
on the same date as that on whch the orgna cense
woud have e pred the hoder thereo had contnued
to be a pubc o cer.
17. A ourteen day cense granted to a pubc o cer
who has prevousy hed a pubc o cer's cense, or a
pubc o cer's cense granted to a person who has
prevousy hed a pubc o cer's ourteen day cense,
sha, taken out wthn s months o the e pry
o the ormer cense, author e the hoder to k or
capture such number ony o anmas as, wth the
number ked or captured under the ormer cense, w
make up the number ed or a pubc o cer's cense.
18. When a cense smar to a Pubc O cer's
cense under ths Ordnance has been granted n the
East A rca Protectorate, that cense sha author e
the hoder to hunt, k, or capture game n the Uganda
Protectorate, n a respects as the cense had been
granted n the Uganda Protectorate, provded that
such cense sha be rst ndorsed by a Coector or
other author ed o cer o the Uganda Protectorate :
provded aso that any authorty to k or capture
addtona anmas not permtted under the correspond-
ng Uganda cense sha be vod.
19. An occuper o and may take out a and-
hoder's cense and may aso take out a smar cense
at the same ee or any person permanenty empoyed
by hm n connecton wth the and.
2 The cense sha ony permt game to be
hunted, ked, or captured on the and o the hoder
o a cense or o hs empoyer who has taken out the
cense.
3 The cense w not author e anmas n the Frst
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Game Reguatons : Uganda
Schedue or the emaes or young o anmas mentoned
n the Second Schedue to be hunted ked or captured.
4 The cense sha permt the anmas mentoned
n the Thrd and Fourth Schedues to be hunted ked
or captured and the mtaton o the number o anmas
to be hunted ked or captured theren contaned sha
not appy.
5 E cept as otherwse provded n ths secton the
hoder o a andhoder's cense w be sub ect n a
respects to the provsons o ths Ordnance.
20. When a person hodng a andhoder's cense
hods aso a setter's cense, anmas ked or captured
on hs own and under hs andhoder's cense, sha not
count towards the anmas he s entted to k under
hs setter's cense.
21. Any andhoder, or hs servant, ndng an anma
mentoned n the Schedues spong hs crops or dong
damage to hs hodng may k the same such act s
necessary or the protecton o hs crops or hodng, but
he sha gve notce thereo to the Coector o the ds-
trct wthout deay, and the head, horns, tusks, and skn
sha be the property o the Government, and sha be
deat wth as the Coector may drect,
22. Anmas mentoned n the Schedues ked or
captured by the hoder o a cense other than a and-
hoder's cense upon prvate and at the re uest o the
occuper and or protecton o hs crops or hodng
sha not count towards the number o anmas that per-
son s entted to k under hs cense but n such case
the head, horns, tusks, and skns o such anmas sha
be the property o the Government, and sha be deat
wth as the Coector may drect.
23. A Brd Lcense sha, sub ect to the provsons
o ths Ordnance, entte the hoder to shoot any o the
brds mentoned n the F th Schedue ony.
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2 The Commssoner may by Procamaton order
any area n the Uganda Protectorate to be cosed or
any perod spec ed n the Procamaton n respect o
the kng or capturng o any or a speces o wd
brds.
3 Any person who sha k or capture or attempt
to k or capture by any means whatsoever or who sha
have n hs possesson any wd brd captured n con-
traventon o sub-secton 2 o ths secton wthn the area
to whch such Procamaton s apped and wthn the
perod spec ed theren sha be guty o an o ence
under ths Ordnance.
Provded that no person sha be abe to be convcted
under the provsons o sub-secton 3 o ths secton or
the unaw u possesson o such wd brd he sats es
the Court be ore whch he s charged ether that :
a The kng or capturng o such wd brd, n a
pace wth regard to whch the provsons o sub-secton
2 o ths secton have been apped was aw u at the
tme when and by the person by whom t was ked or
captured, or
d The wd brd was ked or captured n some
pace to whch the provsons o sub-secton 2 o ths
secton was not apped.
24. No person sha be entted to hunt, k, or cap-
ture anmas mentoned n the schedues on prvate
ands n the occupaton o another person other than hs
empoyer, uness he s duy censed under the provsons
o ths Ordnance.
25, Where t appears proper to the Commssoner or
scent c or admnstratve reasons, he may grant a
speca cense to any person, not beng a natve, to k
or capture anmas o any one or more speces mentoned
n any o the Schedues or, to k, hunt, or capture n
a game reserve spec ed beasts or brds o prey, or other
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Game Reguatons : Uganda
anmas whose presence s detrmenta to the purposes
o the game reserve or, n partcuar cases, to k, or
capture, as the case may be, n a game reserve, an
anma or anmas o any one or more speces mentoned
n the Schedues.
The Commssoner may, he thnks t, grant a speca
cense to any person European or Amercan, resdent
n any town stuate n or near a game reserve, to k or
capture spec ed brds and no ous anmas n such
game reserve or such part thereo as sha be de ned on
such cense or otherwse.
A speca cense sha be sub ect to such condtons
as to ees and securty any , number, se , and age o
specmens, dstrct and season or huntng, and other
matters, as the Commssoner may prescrbe.
Save as a oresad, the hoder o a speca cense sha
be sub ect to the genera provsons o ths Ordnance,
and to the provsons reatng to hoders o censes.
26. The Commssoner may by rue prescrbe the
orms o censes ssued under the provsons o ths
Ordnance.
Every cense hoder sha keep a regster o the
anmas ked or captured by hm n the orm spec ed
n the Seventh Schedue.
The Regster wth a copy thereo sha be submtted
as o ten as convenent, but not ess re uenty than once
n three months, to the nearest Coector or Assstant
Coector, who sha countersgn the entres up to date
and retan the copy.
Any person author ed to grant censes may at any
tme ca upon any cense hoder to produce hs regster
or nspecton.
Every hoder o a cense must wthn 1 5 days a ter
hs cense has e pred produce or send to the Coector
o the dstrct n whch he resdes the regster, and
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
a copy thereo , o the anmas ked or captured by hm
under hs cense.
I any hoder o a cense as to keep hs regster
truy or to produce t as re ured by ths secton he sha
be guty o an o ence aganst ths Ordnance.
27. The Commssoner may revoke any cense when
he s sats ed that the hoder has been guty o a breach
o any o the provsons o ths Ordnance or o the con-
dtons o hs cense, or has connved wth any other per-
son n any such breach, or that n any matters n reaton
thereto he has acted otherwse than n good ath.
28. The Commssoner may at hs dscreton drect
that a cense under ths Ordnance sha be re used to
any appcant.
29. Any person whose cense has been ost or de-
stroyed may obtan a resh cense or the remander
o hs term on payment o such a ee as the censng
authorty may , not e ceedng Rs. 5.
30. No cense granted under ths Ordnance sha
entte the hoder to hunt, k, or capture any anma, or
to trespass upon prvate property wthout the consent
o the owner or occuper.
31. Any person who, a ter havng ked or captured
anmas to the number and o the speces author ed by
hs cense, proceeds to hunt, k, or capture any an-
mas whch he s not author ed to k or capture, sha
be guty o a breach o ths Ordnance.
32. Persons n the empoyment o hoders o censes
may, wthout cense, assst such hoders o censes n
huntng anmas, but sha not use re-arms.
In any case o a breach o the provsons o ths sec-
ton the cense o every cense hoder concerned n the
breach sha be abe to or eture, and such cense
hoder sha be guty o an o ence.
33. The Commssoner or any person author ed by
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Game Reguatons : Uganda
hm n that beha may, at hs dscreton, re ure any
person mportng re-arms or ammunton that may be
used by such person or the purpose o kng game or
other anmas to take out a cense under ths Ordnance,
and may re use to aow the re-arms or ammunton to
be taken rom the pubc warehouse unt such cense s
taken out. Save as a oresad, nothng n ths Ordnance
sha a ect the provsons o The Uganda Fre-arms
Reguatons, 1896, or any Ordnance amendng or
substtuted or the same.
Restrcton on Kng Game by Natves
34. When the members o any natve trbe or the
natve nhabtants o any vage appear to be depen-
dent upon the esh o wd anmas or ther subsstence,
the Coector o the dstrct may wth the approva o
the Commssoner, by order addressed to the Che o
the trbe or Headman o the vage, author e the
trbesmen or nhabtants as the case may be, to k
anmas wthn such area, and sub ect to such condtons
as to mode o huntng, number, speces, and se o
anmas and otherwse, as may be prescrbed by the order.
An order under ths secton sha not author e the
kng o any anma mentoned n the Frst Schedue.
The provsons o ths Ordnance wth respect to
hoders o censes sha not appy to a member o a
trbe or natve nhabtant o a vage to whch an order
under ths secton appes.
Save as a oresad, the genera provsons o ths
Ordnance sha appy to every natve who s author ed
under ths secton, and a breach o any order sha be a
breach o ths Ordnance.
35. The Coector o a dstrct may, wth the approva
o the Commssoner, grant a cense, smar to a
sportsman's or setter's cense, to any natve, upon such
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
terms as to ees and other condtons as the Comms-
soner may drect.
36. A Sub-Commssoner may wth the approva
o the Commssoner, grant to any natve Che a hcense
to k two bu eephants.
2 Such cense sha be sub ect to the condtons
appcabe to censes ssued under ths Ordnance, and
the ee n respect thereo sha be 150 rupees.
3 The vory obtaned rom eephants ked under
any such cense sha be taken to the nearest Govern-
ment staton, and there marked n such a way that t
may be dent ed. Any person possessng, buyng, or
seng any such vory whch has not been so marked
sha be guty o an o ence aganst ths Ordnance.
4 The Commssoner may make rues as to the
persons by whom and the manner n whch such vory
sha be marked.
'y. When eephants are ound dong damage to
shambas, and the owner or occuper thereo cannot,
wth the means at hs dsposa, drve them o , the
nearest Che may at the re uest o such occuper k
not more than two o such eephants.
2 The destructon o the eephants sha be reported
orthwth to the nearest cv o cer, and the vory sha
be taken and handed over to hm. The Che and the
owner o the shamba sha each be entted to receve
such proporton o the vory as the Commssoner may
drect. The carcases o the eephants sha beong to
the owner o the shambas.
Lega Procedure
38. Where any pubc o cer o the Uganda Pro-
tectorate thnks t e pedent or the purposes o ver-
yng the regster o a cense hoder, or suspects that
any person has been guty o a breach o any o the
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provsons o ths Ordnance or o the condtons o hs
cense he may nspect and search, or author e any
subordnate o cer to nspect and search, any baggage,
packages, wagons, tents, budng, or caravan beongng
to or under the contro o such person or hs agent, and
the o cer nds any heads, horns, tusks, skns, eathers,
or other remans o the anmas appearng to have been
ked, or any ve anmas appearng to have been cap-
tured, n contraventon o ths Ordnance, he sha se e
and take the same be ore a Magstrate to be deat wth
accordng to aw.
39. Save as heren mentoned, any person who hunts,
ks, or captures any anmas n contraventon o ths
Ordnance, or otherwse commts any breach o the
provsons o ths Ordnance or o the condtons o hs
cense sha, on convcton, be abe to a ne whch
may e tend to 1000 rupees, and, where the o ence re-
ates to more anmas than two, to a ne n respect o
each anma whch may e tend to 500 rupees and n
ether case to mprsonment o ether knd whch may
e tend to two months, wth or wthout ne
Provded that any person who shoots, ks, or cap-
tures or attempts to shoot, k, or capture brds n
contraventon o ths Ordnance sha not be abe to a
ne o more than 100 rupees nor mprsonment o ether
knd e ceedng one month.
In a cases on convcton any ostrch eggs or any
heads, horns, tusks, skns, or other remans o anmas
ound n the possesson o the o ender or hs agent,
and a ve anmas captured n contraventon o ths
Ordnance sha be abe to or eture.
I the person convcted s the hoder o a cense hs
cense may be revoked by the Court.
40. Where n any proceedng under ths Ordnance
any ne s mposed, the Court may award any sum or
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sums not e ceedng ha the tota ne to any n ormer
or n ormers.
41. Ths Ordnance sha come nto operaton on the
Frst day o November 1906.
Repea
42. The oowng Reguatons and Ordnances and
a Procamatons, Orders and Rues thereunder are
hereby repeaed.
The Game Returns Reguatons, 1900 No. 25 .
The Uganda Game Reguatons, 1900 No. 32 .
The Brds Protecton Reguatons, 1901 No. o 1901 .
The Uganda Game Reguatons Amendment Ord-
nance, 1903 No. 9 o 1903 .
The Uganda Game Ordnance, 1903 No. 13 o 1903 .
The Uganda Game Ordnance, 1904 No. o 1904 .
The Uganda Game Reguatons Amendment Ord-
nance, 1904 No. 10 o 1904 .
The Game Ordnance, 1904 No. 12 o 1904 .
The Uganda Game Reguatons Amendment Ord-
nance, 1905 No. 2 o 1905 .
Provded as oows :
Where any ega proceedngs have been begun
under the sad repeaed Reguatons or Ord-
nances the same sha be contnued as ths
Ordnance had not been enacted.
2 Any person who has be ore the commencement
o ths Ordnance commtted any o ence aganst
any o the sad repeaed Reguatons or Ord-
nances, or has commtted any breach o any
condtons prescrbed on any cense granted
thereunder sha be proceeded aganst and pun-
shed as ths Ordnance had not been enacted.
3 Lcenses ssued under the sad repeaed Regu-
atons or Ordnances une pred at the com-
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mencement o ths Ordnance sha reman n
orce or the perod or whch they were granted,
as ths Ordnance had not been enacted.
H. Hesketh Be,
H. Ma esty's Commssoner.
Entebbe, bth October, 1906.
FIRST schedue
Anmas not to be umted, ked, or captured, by any
person, e cept under Speca Lcense.
1. Gra e.
2. ebra.
3. Wd Ass.
4. Gnu Co nochoetes , any speces.
5. Eand Taurotragus' .
6. Eephant emae or young .
7. Secretary Brd.
8. Vuture any speces .
9. Ows any speces .
10. Whae-headed Stork Bacsnceps re .
11. Sadde-bed Stork Epphpporhynous Senega-
enss .
12. Crowned Crane Baearcd .
13. Okap ohnston .
14. Bu ao emae .
15. Ostrch emae or young .
16. Speke's Trageaphus emae .
SECOND SCHEDULE
Anmas, the emaes o whch are not to be hunted, ked,
or captured, when accompanyng ther young, a7td young o
whch are not to be captured e cept under Speca Lcense.
1. Rhnoceros.
2. Chevrotan Dorcatherm .
3. A Anteopes or Ga ees not mentoned n the
rst schedue.
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
THIRD SCHEDULE
Anmas, mted numbers o whch may be ked or
captured tmder a Sportsman' s or Pubc O cer s cense.
1. Eephant mae
2. Rhnoceros ......
3. Hppopotamus e cept n the oowng
dstrct n whch they are not pro-
tected :
1. The Rver Ne.
2. The shores o the Vctora, the
Abert, and Abert Edward
Lakes.
4. Anteopes and Ga ees
Cass A
Ory Gemsbuck or Besa
Sabe or Roan Hppotragus .
Kudu Strepsceros .
Bongo Boocercus Eurycerus Isaac
Speke's Trageaphus mae .
Impaa ySpyceros .
5. Coobus or other ur monkeys
6. Aard-Varks Orycteropus
7. Aard-Wo Protees
8. Ostrch mae ony .
9. Marabou Stork Leptoptus
10. Egrets o each speces
11. Anteopes or Ga ees
Cass B
Any speces other than those n Cass A
12. Chevrotans ......
13. Chmpan ee ......
14. Bu ao mae
Number
aowed.
2
2
10
2
2
2
I
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
10
10
I
2
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Game Reguatons : Uganda
FOURTH SCHEDULE
Anmas, mted numbers o w ch may be ked or
captured under a Setter's cense.
Number
aowed.
1. Hppopotamus e cept n the oowng o
dstrcts n whch they are not pro-
tected :
1. The Rver Ne.
2. The shores o the Vctora, the
Abert, and Abert Edward
Lakes.
2. The oowng Anteopes and Ga ees ony :
Grant's Ga ee,
Thomson's Ga ee,
Hartebeest.
v Reedbuck Cervcapra .
v Duker Cephaophs .
v Kpsprnger Oreotragus .
v Stenbuck Rhaphceros .
v Waterbuck Cobus .
Bushbuck Trageaphus Rouaeyn .
Fve anmas n a n any caendar
month, made up o anmas o a snge
speces or severa provded however that
not more than ten anmas o any one
speces sha be ked durng the perod
or whch the cense s avaabe.
FIFTH SCHEDULE
Brds whch may be shot under a Brd Lcense sub-
ect to the provsons as to cose seasons .
Any brd whch s not mentoned n any o the rst
our Schedues.
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
SI TH SCHEDULE
Game Reserves
1. An area bounded by
By the road, skrtng the Budonga Forest,
rom Masnd to Butaba.
2 By the shore o the Abert Lake to the
mouth o the Rver Wa a.
3 By the e t bank o the Rver Wa a rom ts
mouth to Kerota.
4 By the Kerota Masnd Road.
The a oresad area shoud be known as the BuDONGA
Game Reserve.
2. An area bounded
By the rght bank o the Rver Mpanga rom
ts mouth to ts source.
2 By a straght ne drawn rom the source o
the Mpanga Rver to the source o the
Rver DuKALA Wasa .
3 By the e t bank o the Rver Dukaa Wasa
to ts uncton wth the Semk.
4 By the rght bank o the Rver Semk rom
the uncton o the DUKALA Wasa Rver
to the Congo Fronter, thence oowng
the Congo Fronter to a pont due west o
the source o the Rver MuPUKU Mabuku
and then by a straght ne to the source o
the Rver MUPUKU Mabuku .
5 By the e t bank o the Rver MuPUKU
Mabuku to ts mouth n Lake RuSAMBA
and thence by the northern shores o Lake
RuSAMBA to the mouth o the Mpanga.
The a oresad area sha be known as the TORO Game
Reserve.
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Game Reguatons : Uganda
SEVENTH SCHEDULE
Game Regster
Speces.
Number.
Se .
Locaty.
Date.
Remarks.
I decare that the above s a true record o a anmas
ked by me n the Protectorate under the cense
granted me on the 19
Passed
Sgnature o E amnng O cer.
E tract rom the O ca Ga ette o the Uganda
Protectorate o November st, 1907:
Procamaton under the Uganda Game Ordnance,
go6, Secton 5.
I, George Wson, Companon o the Most Honour-
abe Order o the Bath, Actng Commssoner or the
Uganda Protectorate, hereby remove the name o the
anma Hppopotamus rom a Schedues to the
Uganda Game Ordnance, 1906, n whch t appears.
Provded aways and I hereby decare that ths
Procamaton sha appy ony to the area comprsed
n a radus o ve mes rom the Busro Seepng
Sckness Camp at Bwanuka.
George Wson,
Actng Commssoner.
Entebbe, October 22ndy 1907.
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SUDAN GAME REGULATIONS
AN ORDINANCE FOR THE PRESERVATION
OF WILD ANIMALS AND BIRDS
It s hereby enacted as oows :
Short Tte and Commencement
1. Ths Ordnance may be cted as the Preservaton
o Wd Anmas Ordnance 1903 and sha commence
mmedatey.
Repeas
2. The Preservaton o Wd Anmas Ordnance
1 90 1 s hereby repeaed e cept n so ar as t repeas
ormer Ordnances.
Interpretaton
3. In ths Ordnance, uness there be somethng
repugnant n the conte t :
The words Hunt, Capture, K, and In ure
ncude respectvey attemptng or adng to hunt,
capture, k, and n ure.
The words the Lcensng O cer denote any
O cer author ed by the Governor Genera to grant
censes hereunder.
The word not ed means not ed n the Sudan
Ga ette.
The words Ths Ordnance ncude any reguaton
or matter not ed or prescrbed under the provsons
o ths Ordnance and or the tme beng n orce.
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Game Reguatons : Sudan
Cass caton o Anmas and Brds
4. For the purpose o ths Ordnance Wd
Anmas and Brds are dvded nto our Casses, here-
na ter caed respectvey Cass , Cass 2, Cass 3, and
Cass 4.
2 Cass I, Cass 2, and Cass 3 sha comprse the
anmas and brds spec ed n Part I, Part II, and Part
III respectvey o the rst schedue hereto.
3 Cass 4 sha ncude a wd anmas and brds
not comprsed n the sad ast schedue.
4 The Governor Genera may at any tme by notce
pubshed n the Sudan Ga ette remove any anma or
brd rom any cass, or ncude any anma or brd n
any cass.
Certan Anmas and Brds Absoutey Protected
5. No person other than a natve o the Sudan,
whether the hoder o a cence or not, sha k, n ure,
or capture any anma or brd ncuded n Cass .
2 Any person kng, n urng, or capturng any
anma or brd n contraventon o ths secton sha
be abe to a ne not e ceedng y,. 100 or to m-
prsonment or a perod not e ceedng three months.
Issue and Provson o Lcences
6. Lcences or the huntng, capturng, and k-
ng o wd anmas and brds ncuded n Cass 2 and
Cass 3 respectvey may be granted by the Lcensng
O cer n hs dscreton to any person appyng or the
same. Such cences sha be o two knds caed
respectvey Lcence A and Lcence B.
2 No person other than a natve o the Sudan sha
hunt, capture, or k any anma or brd ncuded n
Cass 2 uness he s the hoder o a Lcence A.
3 No person other than a natve o the Sudan sha
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
hunt, capture, or k any anma or brd ncuded n
Cass 3 uness he s the hoder ether o a Lcence A
or o a Lcence B.
4 No hoder o a cence sha durng the currency
o one cence capture or k a greater number o
anmas or brds o any speces ncuded n Cass 2 or
Cass 3 than the number spec ed n the rst Schedue
hereto opposte to the name o such speces,
5 The Governor Genera may at any tme by
notce n the Sudan Ga ette ater the number o any
speces o anma or brd ncuded n Cass 2 or n
Cass 3 whch may be captured or ked by the
hoder o a cence.
6 The annua ees payabe by the hoders o the
sad cences sha be as oows :
1. When ssued to an O cer or O ca o the Brtsh
Egyptan or Sudan Government servng n Egypt or
the Sudan or sub ect to approva o the Governor
Genera to any person ordnary resdent n the
Sudan or ntendng ordnary to resde there.
Lcence A ... ... e. 5
Lcence B ... ... '&.
2. When ssued to any other person.
Lcence A ... .. E, 40
Lcence B ... ... . 5
Every hoder o a Lcence A obtaned at the E. 5
rate sha aso pay to the Lcensng O cer a ee o
y.. 10 or every eephant ked by hm under such
Hcence.
7 Every Lcence A and Lcence B sha e cept
n the case o the temporary Lcence B herena ter
mentoned reman n orce or one year rom the
date o ssue and sha then e pre.
8 The acceptance o a Lcence A or Lcence B
sha be hed to consttute an agreement by the hoder
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Game Reguatons : Sudan
thereo that he agrees to con orm to the provsons
o ths Ordnance. And no cence sha be trans er-
abe. I an orgna cence be ost or destroyed a
dupcate cence may be obtaned on proo o such
oss or destructon and payment to the Lcensng
O cer o a ee o P.T. 25.
9 A huntsmen, beaters and other assstants adng
the hoder o a Lcence A or a Lcence B to hunt,
capture or k any anma or brd whch such cence
hoder s author ed by hs cence to hunt, capture or
k sha be covered, whe so actng, by such cence.
10 Every hoder o a Lcence A or a Lcence B
sha keep an account o a anmas and brds captured
or ked by hm o any speces ncuded n Cass 2 or
Cass 3 and o any other speces mentoned n hs
cence. Ths account sha gve the date and pace o
capture or kng o each anma or brd captured or
ked and the se o each such anma. Every such
cence hoder sha produce such account together wth
hs cence whenever caed upon to do so by any
O ca o the Sudan Government and sha dever a
copy o such account sgned by hmse to the Lcensng
O cer upon the e praton o hs cence or upon hs
eavng the Sudan, whchever rst happens, as aso,
re ured by the Lcensng O cer or the purpose o
compng the annua returns, upon such other day as
may be spec ed n the cence.
11 At any tme whe a Lcence B contnues n
orce t may wth the eave o the Lcensng O cer
be e changed or a Lcence A on payment o the
d erence between the ees chargeabe or such cences
respectvey, but the substtuted cence sha e pre
upon the day when the orgna cence woud have
e pred.
12 A temporary Lcence B may be aso granted at
311
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
the dscreton o the Lcensng O cer or one or more
days at a day charge o P.T. 25.
13 Any person kng, n urng or capturng any
wd anma or brd n contraventon o sub-sectons
2 or 3 or 4 o ths secton or re usng to produce
hs cence or such account as a oresad when caed
upon to do so or producng an ncorrect account sha
be abe to a ne not e ceedng e. 100 or to mprson-
ment or a term not e ceedng three months.
E ceptons
7. Notwthstandng anythng n ths Ordnance con-
taned the owner or occuper o any cutvated and or
any person author ed by hm may capture, n ure or
k any wd anmas or brds causng serous damage
to hs property such damage cannot otherwse be
averted, and notwthstandng anythng n ths Ord-
nance contaned no person sha be deemed to have
commtted an o ence under ths Ordnance by reason
o hs havng ked or n ured any anma n de ence o
hmse or any other person.
Cass IV
8. Any person may hunt, capture or k any o the
brds and anmas ncuded n Cass IV.
Rghts o Natves o the Sudan
9. Lcences or the huntng, capturng and kng
o a spec ed number o anmas and brds ncuded n
Cass I may be ssued n speca cases to natves o the
Sudan ony. Each such cence sha be ssued ony
wth the approva o the Governor Genera, and sha
be known as Lcence C. The ee payabe n respect o
a Lcence C sha be decded by the Mudr o the
Provnce n whch t s ssued.
312
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Game Reguatons : Sudan
2 No natve o the Sudan not beng a hoder o a
Lcence C sha hunt, k or capture any anma or brd
ncuded n Cass ,
3 No natve o the Sudan sha empoy any re-
arm n the pursut o any anma or brd ncuded n
Cass I or Cass 2 or Cass 3 whether such natve sha
be the hoder o a Lcence C or not,
4 Sub ect to the above restrctons any natve o
the Sudan may hunt, capture and k any wd anma
or brd.
5 Any natve o the Sudan actng n contraventon
o sub-secton 2 or 3 o ths secton sha be abe to a
ne not e ceedng e. 10 or to mprsonment or a
perod not e ceedng three months.
6 Any natve o the Sudan who s ound n posses-
son o any anma or brd ncuded n Cass vng
or dead, or o any part o such anma or brd sha be
deemed to have ked or captured such anma or brd
uness the contrary be shown.
Sae 0/ Hdes, Horns, etc., o Certan Anmas
10. The sae and purchase o the hdes, horns or
esh or o any trophes o any o the anmas and brds
ncuded n the second schedue hereto s absoutey
prohbted n the Sudan.
2 No person sha e pose or o er or sae or coect
or keep or trade purposes any such hdes, horns, esh
or other trophes.
3 Any person actng n contraventon o ths secton
sha be abe to a ne not e ceedng E. 10 or to
mprsonment or a perod not e ceedng three months,
and a such hdes, horns and trophes so purchased or
sod, or o ered or sae or coected or trade purposes
sha be abe to con scaton.
4 Any person ound n possesson o any such
313
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
hdes, horns, esh or trophes sha be deemed to have
coected the same or trade purposes uness the con-
trary be shown.
Dutes on Hdes Permtted to be Sod
II. The sae and purchase o hdes, horns, esh
and other trophes o wd anmas and brds other than
those mentoned n the second schedue hereto are
permtted n the Sudan.
2 The oowng ad vaorem dutes sha be pad n
respect o any such hdes, horns, esh or other trophes
brought nto the prncpa town or vage o any
Mudra or Mamura or purposes o trade or e ported
rom the Sudan :
On eephant or hppopotamus hdes 20 per cent.
On a other hdes or skns and the esh, horns or other
trophes o any anma or brd comprsed n ths secton
10 per cent.
3 A such hdes, esh, horns and trophes brought
nto any such town or vage as a oresad sha be
deemed to be brought there or the purpose o trade
uness the contrary be shown.
4 The sad duty sha ony be pad once n respect
o each artce and every o ca recevng payment
o such duty sha re ured gve to the person
makng such payment a pass whch sha author e
hm to take the artce n respect o whch duty has
been pad nto any other pace wthout payng any
urther duty.
5 The hoder o a cence ssued hereunder sha
nevertheess not be abe or the sad dutes n respect
o the e port o hdes, horns or other trophes obtaned
by hm under hs cence and any traveer eavng the
country w be permtted to take wth hm ree o the
314
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Game Reguatons : Sudan
sad dutes not more than ve n number o such hdes,
horns or other trophes upon makng a decaraton,
demanded, that they are not so taken or trade
purposes,
6 Ths secton sha not appy to eephants' tusks
or ostrch eathers.
7 Any person ang to pay or attemptng to
evade the duty mposed by ths secton on any hdes,
horns, esh or other trophes sha be abe to a ne
not e ceedng three tmes the amount o the duty and
the sad hdes, horns, esh and other trophes sha be
abe to con scaton.
E port Ta on Lvng Anmas
12. From and a ter the date o ths Ordnance
an e port ta accordng to the scae set orth n the
thrd schedue hereto sha be eved on each vng
specmen o an anma or brd mentoned n the thrd
schedue,
2 The sad e port ta sha not be eved n respect
o anmas or brds e ported by the hoder o a cence
ssued hereunder n accordance wth the terms o such
cence,
3 Any person ang to pay or attemptng to
evade the duty mposed by ths secton on any anma
or brd sha be abe to a ne not e ceedng three
tmes the amount o the duty and the sad anma or
brd sha be abe to con scaton.
Sanctuary or Game
13. From and a ter the date o ths Ordnance
the dstrct bounded on the north by a ne drawn rom
Kaka to Famaka on the east by the Bue Ne rom
Famaka to the Abyssnan Fronter and then by the
boundary wth Abyssna to the Baro Rver on the
315
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2
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2
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
South by the Baro Rver to ts uncton wth the Sobat
Rver and then by the Sobat Rver to ts uncton wth
the Whte Ne and on the West by the Whte Ne sha
be a sanctuary or game wthn whch no person other
than natves o the Sudan resdng n the sad sanctuary
and O cers and O cas statoned n the same and
havng a speca permt endorsed on ther cence sha
hunt, capture or k any wd anma or brd.
2 From and a ter the date o ths Ordnance the
dstrct bounded on the North by a ne rom ebeen
to Karko on the East by the Bue Ne between
Karko and Famaka on the South by a ne drawn
rom Famaka to Kaka and the West by the Whte Ne
between Kaka and ebeen sha be a reserve wthn
whch no person other than natves o the Sudan
resdng theren and persons havng a speca permt
endorsed on ther cences sha hunt, capture or k
any wd anma or brd. Such speca permt sha be
granted at the dscreton o the Lcensng O cer and
ony to persons resdng n the sad Dstrct, to O cers
and O cas o the Sudan Government and to O cers
and O cas o the Brtsh and Egyptan Governments
servng n the Sudan.
3 The sad boundary nes between ebeen and
Karko and between Kaka and Famaka sha be here-
a ter more partcuary de ned by a notce ssued n the
Sudan Ga ette.
4 Any person actng n contraventon o ths
secton sha be abe to a ne not e ceedng . 100
or to mprsonment or a term not e ceedng three
months.
Loca E tent o Lcences
14. Sub ect to the provsons o the ast precedng
secton every Lcence A or Lcence B sha be vad
316
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Game Reguatons : Sudan
throughout the Sudan save that no cence sha be
vad n any part o the Sudan to whch under any
Ordnance or Reguatons or the tme beng n orce
t s unaw u or the cence hoder to proceed and
that no cence sha be vad n any part o the Sudan
to whch speca permsson s re ured uness endorsed
to that e ect by the authorty by whch such per-
msson s granted.
Ostrch Eggs not to be removed
15. No person whether he s the hoder o a
cence or not sha remove or dsturb or n ure the
eggs o an ostrch or o any other brd whch may rom
tme to tme be not ed wthout the wrtten permsson
o a Lcensng O cer.
'a
Shootng rom a Steamer orbdden
2 No person sha shoot rom a steamer ether at
rest or n moton at any brd or at any anma e cept
the on, eopard and crocode.
Poson and E posves not to be used on Fsh
3 No person sha use any poson or dynamte or
any other e posve or the takng o any sh.
Penates
4 Any person actng n contraventon o ths
secton sha be abe to a ne not e ceedng . 5 or
n de aut o payment to mprsonment or a term not
e ceedng one month.
Speca Lcences or Scent c Purposes
16. The Governor Genera or any O cer author-
ed by hm may by speca endorsement on a cence
11
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
permt the capture o a stated number o anmas and
brds ncuded n Cass .
2 The Governor Genera may dspense rom the
observance o such sectons o ths Ordnance as he
thnks proper e cept sub-secton o secton 13 any
person who re ures such dspensaton or the purpose
o scent c study.
3 Any permsson or dspensaton gven hereunder
may be wthdrawn at any tme.
Con scaton o Cow and sma Ivory
y. A cow vory and eephant tusks weghng ess
than ten pounds, or such other weght as may be not-
ed rom tme to tme s abe to be con scated and
may be se ed by any Magstrate, Poce O cer or
O cer engaged n the Cv Admnstraton wthout
ad udcaton o con scaton sub ect to a rght o appea
to the Mudr or to a Magstrate o the st or 2nd Cass
aganst the con scaton.
Powers o Governor Getera
18. The Governor Genera may rom tme to tme
by notce pubshed n the Sudan Ga ette e ercse a or
any o the oowng powers that s to say
a Not y or prescrbe any matter whch s e t by ths
Ordnance to be not ed or prescrbed.
b Decare a cose tme or cose tmes durng whch
any wd anma or brd spec ed n such notce
sha not be hunted, captured or ked, nor the
esh thereo sod or o ered or sae.
c Forbd or restrct the use o nets, pt as or other
destructve modes o capture.
d E tend or mt any o the provsons o ths
Ordnance so as to ncude theren or e cude
there rom any wd anma or brd spec ed n
such notce.
e Revoke, ater or suspend any such notces.
318
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Game Reguatons : Sudan
2 Governors o Provnces may by pubc notce or-
bd or restrct the use wthn ther respectve provnces
o nets, pt as or other destructve modes o capture
and revoke, ater or suspend any such notce.
3 Upon the pubcaton o any such notce ths
Ordnance and such notce sha take e ect as the
matter contaned n such notce had been ncorporated
n ths Ordnance.
Fees Payabe by Persons Contravenng
19. Persons contravenng ths Ordnance by huntng
capturng or kng any wd anma or brd ncuded n
Cass 2 or Cass 3 wthout a cence or wth an nsu -
cent cence sha be abe or a the ees whch woud
have been payabe by them or the takng out o a
su cent cence or the huntng, capturng or kng o
such anma or brd n addton to any ne or mprson-
ment whch may be awarded or such contraventon.
Court or tryng Contraventon
20. Prosecutons or a contraventon o any o the
provsons o ths Ordnance may be tred by the Court
o a Magstrate o the 2nd Cass or by any hgher
Court.
For eture o Lcences
21. The cence o any person convcted o any o ence
under ths Ordnance sha be abe to be or eted.
Con scaton o Trophes, etc. etc.
22. A anmas, brds, skns, horns, tusks, eathers,
trophes, eggs and carcases o a anmas or brds
captured or ked n contraventon o ths Ordnance
sha be abe to con scaton and may be se ed by any
Magstrate, Poce O cer or the Lcensng O cer sub-
ect to a rght o appea to the Mudr aganst the con-
scaton.
319
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
THE FIRST SCHEDULE
Part I
may
not be
Cass I. Anmas and brds whch
hunted, captured or ked :
Gra e. Ostrch.
Rhnoceros. Shoe-b BacB tceps .
Wd Ass. Ground Horn B Bucora .
ebra. Secretary Brd Serpentarus .
Part II
Cass 2. Anmas and brds a mted number o
whch may be captured or ked by the hoder o an
A Lcence, and the number author ed o any one
speces
Mrs. Gray's Water Buck Cobus Mara .
Eephant. ....... 2
Eand Taurotragus ..... 2
Kudu Strepsceros ..... 2
*Hppopotamus 4
Bu ao ........ 4
Roan Anteope Hppotragus ... 4
Ory Besa ....... 4
Water Buck Cobus Dc assd .... 4
Bush Buck Trageaphus .... 4
Reed Buck Cervcapra . .... 4
ackson's Hartebeest Bubas ackson , . 4
Tora Hartebeest Bubas Tora ... 4
Ory Leucory ...... 6
Adda ........ 6
Whte-eared Cob Cobus Leucots ... 6
Addra Ga ee Ga ea Ru cos ... 6
* There s no mt o the number o hppopotamus
whch may be captured or ked South o Fashoda.
320
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Game Reguatons : Sudan
Part III
Cass 3. Anmas and brds a mted number o
whch may be captured or ked by the hoder o an A
or B Lcence and the number authorsed o any speces -
Ibe
Wd Sheep .
Pecans .
Egrets .
Herons .
Storks
Marabout
Spoonbs
Famngoes
Ibs
Crowned Crane
*Wart Hog .
*Large Bustard
*Tang
*Other Anteopes and Ga ees not be ore
spec ed n ths schedue each speces , 12
* A Lcence hoder on a trp o more than three
months' duraton may shoot our more o each o these
or ood n every addtona month.
THE SECOND SCHEDULE
Anmas and brds n respect o whch the sae or
purchase o the hdes, horns or esh or other trophes s
prohbted
Anmas and brds n- Hartebeest.
euded n Cass . Whte-eared Cob.
Mrs. Gray's Water Buck. Water Buck.
Kudu. Ory .
Roan Anteope. Ibe .
4
4
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
6
12
12
12
321
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Lake Vctora to Khartoum
THE THIRD SCHEDULE
E port Ta on Lvng Anmas
Each E. 24.
Eephant.
Rhnoceros.
Gra e.
Hppopotamus.
Bu ao.
Wd Ass.
ebra.
Water Buck.
Mrs. Gray's Water Buck.
Eand.
Each y. 10.
Whte-eared Cob.
Hartebeest.
Roan Anteope.
Ory .
Adda .
Kudu.
Addra Ga ee.
Ibe .
Ostrch.
Lon.
Each E. 5.
Wd Sheep.
Baaenceps.
Each E. 5.
Secretary Brd.
Each .E. I.
Leopard. Cheetah.
NOTICE
Dstrcts Cosed to Traveers
Wth re erence to the notce as to Passports and
reportng or Europeans and Foregners pubshed n
the Sudan Ga ette o the st August, 1903, No. 50,
page 99, Hs E ceency the Governor Genera has
been peased to order as oows :
Europeans and Foregners not beng traders, trave-
ng or the purpose o peasure or sport South o
Khartoum or n Kordo an, who have a subsstng game
cence, need not obtan a pass rom the Secretary
Genera uness they enter the dstrcts mentoned beow.
322
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Game Reguatons : Sudan
2 No European or Foregn traveer s, unt urther
order, permtted to enter the dstrcts mentoned
beow, uness he obtans the Governor Genera's
speca permsson through the o ce o the Secretary
Genera, Khartoum, and any traveer who obtans
such speca permsson must reguate hs movements
n accordance wth nstructons, whch w be gven
to hm.
Owng to the oca condtons o those dstrcts, such
speca permsson w be granted to persons traveng
or peasure or sport under e ceptona crcumstances
ony.
The Dstrcts above re erred to
a The dstrct South o the Sobat and Fber East
o the Bahr-E- era and North o Shambe.
d The country on the West Bank o the Whte
Ne South o a ne drawn rom Fashoda to
E Eddeya.
c The Bahr-E-Gha a Provnce.
323
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G
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INDE
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INDE
Aard-Varks, 304
Aard-Wo , 304
Abu Smbe, tempe o , 34, 60
Abyssna, 36, 212
Abyssnan bu ao, 229
Acaca trees, 49, 60, 141, 204,
217, 243
Acho, 4, 86
Adda , the, 320, 322
A rcan orests, 196
Akko Mountans, 51, 185, 1S7
Ae andra, 64
Amond trees, 82
Aur trbe, the, 4
Amara, 167
Ambatch trees, 48, 56, 206
Anderson, Mr., 80, 82, 198
Ango - Congoese Boundary
Commsson, 283
Ango-German Boundary Sur-
vey, 36
Anteopes, v, 26, 57, 180
harnessed, 175
roan, 31, 44, 96, 142, 144,
148-52, 161
protecton o , 303-5, 320, 321
Arab pones, 134
Army o Occupaton n Caro
and Lower Egypt, 126
Aron Range, 51, 187
Assuan dam, 57, 61
Assua rver, the, 30, 95, 247-9
Atapp rver, the, 30, 95
Atbara rver, the, 57
Atbara, stormng o , 133
Ath pans, the, 159
Austran Msson House, 58
Avadavat, the, 23
Baboons, 203
Baganda, the, 26, 220
Bager H, 185
Baggara, 2,7
Bahr-e-Gha a, 323
Bahr-e- ebe, 36, 155
Bahr-e- era , 57, 147, 154, 158,
285, 323
Baker, Sr Samue, , 32, 35, 40
at Gondokoro, 53
route to Gondokoro, 158
Bamboos, 96
Bananas, 183
cutvaton o , 74
shambas, 14, 20, 25
use o , 19
Bandas, 18
Barbe, the, 37
Bar trbe, the, 4, 32, 33, 53
country o , 96-8
Bark-coth trees, 19, 20, 75
Baro rver, the, 315
Bats, 76, 162
Battery, advsabe, 4
Bee-eaters, 56, 163
Bees attack the porters, 184, 221
Began statons, 49, 242
Benan Hs, 32, 98
Benan Bar, 97
Be, Sr H. Hesketh, 303
Bennett, Mr., 88, 93, 279
Berber, 59
Bg Game Shootng on the
E uator , 4, 212
Ba, 93
Bue gum trees, 25, 82
Bue Ne, 36, 315
uncton wth Whte Ne, 59,
119
voume o , 57
Bombo, 177, 178, 203, 216, 251
327
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Inde
Borassus pams, 24, 30, 95
Bouganvea, 11
Boye, A. G., 67, 78
Brtsh East A rca, 36, 239
Mr. Church n, 65
Budonga Forest, 25, 306
game reserve, 225, 227, 231,
306
Bu ao, 170, 219, 229
protecton o , 303, 304, 320,
322
Bugungu, 40, 43, 87, 225, 233
Buked, the, 80
Bubu, the, 188
Bushbuck, n pursut o , 172-8,
226
how to hunt, 176
warns eephants o danger,
199
protecton o , 305
Busbka, pans o , 21, 23
Busro, 307
Bustards, 321
Butaba, 306
Ne ota rom, 87, 189,
195, 224, 225
route to, 25-7
Butter es, 219
Bwanuka, 307
Caro, 62, 119
Cameron, Captan, o
Camp e upage, 4
Cannas, 25
Cape bu ao, 229
Cape ac, 25
Castor-o pants, ' '
Ceyon,
Cheetah, the, 322
Cheops, Pyramds o , 63
Chevrotan, 303, 304
Ch bushes, T ,
Chmpan ee, 304
Church, M.P., Rt. Hon. Wn-
ston Spencer, 135, 140, 249,
239
hs trbute to Captan Dck-
nson, v-v
remnscences o hs trp, v
Church, M.P., Rt. Hon. Wn-
ston Spencer, hs msson n
East A rca, 65
eaves Entebbe, 66
route to Kakndu, 66-78
greeted by Dosa, 80
cyces to Gondokoro, 81
on Socasm, 81
ceebrates hs brthday, 84
bags a whte rhnoceros, 88-
93 274
dsappontments o the chase,
93, 103
entertaned at Nmue, 94
trek to Gondokoro, 94-8, 100
shoots two cob, 103
reaches Khartoum, 104
e pans the batte o Om-
durman, 132
Church Mssonary Socety,
Namrembe, 15
Ceopatra, 35
Cother, Leut., ' '
Cob. See Whte-eared and
Uganda Cob
Cooss o Abu Smbe's Tempe,
60
Congo mountans, 28, 36, 43, 49,
50, 86
march n, 240-6
Convovuus, 45, 179
Cooes, chant o the, 13, 14
Cormorants, 38, 56
Cotton pants, 73, 183
Crane, crowned, 303, 321
Crocodes, 57, 88, 179, 247, 317
where to shoot, 9
at the Rpon Fas, 38
at the Murchson Fas, 42
Da, 100, 119, 151
Dante's In erno, 42
Darters, 56
Date pams, 60, 202
Deer stakng n Scotand, 194
Dervsh power, ar-reachng, 35
overthrow o , 35, 132
stronghods o , 50, 51
Dhurra, 32, 46, 51,97 98
328
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Inde
Dck, the dog, 235, 248
Dcknson, Captan F. A., Mr.
Church's testmony to,
v-v
on the advantages o hs-
torca knowedge, ,
o cer n charge o Mr.
Church's escort, , 65, 67
mpressons o Khartoum, ,
118-39
on hs ucky career,
bg- game shootng, 89, go,
92, 93, 103
shoots a cob, 106, 108
bags hs rst Uganda ee-
phant, 109-13
on huntng e perences, 143,
145, 146
shootng roan anteope, 148-
52
Dk-dk, 198, 213
Do pams, 57, 58, 218
Dongoa, 59
Donkeys n Khartoum, 125
Dosa greets Mr. Church, 80
Duck, 78
Du e, 48, 190, 241
Duker, 305
Dukaa rver, the, 306
Dueb pams, 44, 49, 183
East A rca, ourney rom, 1 1
Eden, Mr., 94
Edward VII, coronaton o , 16
Edwards, Captan and Mrs., 190
Egrets, 304, 321
Egyptan Army, 131, 134, 239
stores, 127
Egyptan raway, 35
Egyptan stay-at-homes, 34
Eand, 303, 320, 322
E Duem, 58
E Eddeya, 323
Eephants, bus' sotary habts,
III, 114
Coone Wson encounters,
89, 91
encounter wth a cow, 236-8,
269
Eephants, huntng e perences
o , V, 6, 90, 109-13, 115-17
190, 198-201, 227-9, 253-73
ks Mr. Wrght's gun-bearer,
100
protecton o , 26, 116, 231-3,
289, 303, 304, 314, 320, 322
Semk, 1 15, 178
tusks, 113, 116, 190, 232, 242,
256, 258, 272, 289, 318
Unyoro, 116, 178, 230
where to meet, 10, 23, 31, 44,
81, 83, 180, 186, 192, 233,
250
where to shoot, 4-8, 1 14, 257
Eephant grass, v, 10, 17, 19,
83, 109, 217, 224
E Obed, 58
Emn Pasha, , 35, 88, 191
tree o , 47
Entebbe, 230, 303, 307
capta o Uganda, 11-13
Mr. Church at, 66
Euphorbas, 45, 50, ,
Fa ao, 25, 28, 40, 41, 83, 87, 147
Famaka, 315
Fashoda, 323
Fatko, 28, 147
Fever, attacks o , 13, 54, T
198
Fed-mce, 277
Fg trees, 183
Fnches, grass, 23
Fshbourne, Leut., 67, 88
Famngoes, 321
Fnt, Captan, 94
Foa rapds, the, 30, 48, 49, 50,
204
Fort Berkey, 53
Fowera, 25, 39, 41
Game Reserve, the, 26, 58, 140,
147, 154, 291, 306, 315
Game a, 54, 55, 172
Garrod, Captan, 100
Ga ees, protecton o , 303-5
where to shoot, 9
German East A rca, 36
329
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Inde
Gh eh, 62
Gra e, herd o , 161
protecton o , 303, 320, 322
Gs H, 84
Gnu, 303
Gode, Dr., 67, 71, 100
Gondokoro, 11, 18, 29, 36, 53,
147, 181, 182, 212, 239, 244,
251
stuaton o , 3, 4
marshes o , 18
road to, 30-2
Mr. Church at, , 81, 94,
98, 100
roan anteope at, 152
Good Intent, 86
Gordon, Genera, 120, 123
Gordon Coege, Khartoum, 123,
125
Greek traders, 123, 130
Ground Horn B, 320
Ground nuts, T 96
Gunea- ow, 10, 79, 103, 141,
162, 167, 182, 185, 213
Haboob, a, 124
Ha a, 59
Ha aya, 126
Harres, Leut., 77
Hartebeest, 31, 93, 153, 169,
191,219,225
e perence o huntng, 192,
193
protecton o , 305, 320, 322
Hawks, 162
Heney, 261
Herons, 45, 321
Hmaayas, the, 22
Hppopotamus, v, 46, 51, 57, 87,
179, 186, 275
where to shoot, 9
tras o huntng, 204-10,
233-5
protecton o , 304, 305, 307,
314, 320, 322
Homa, 21, 25, 177, 223-5
Hornbs, 13, 26
Hydrangea, 11
Hyenas, 32
Ibe , 321
Imbarara, 212
Impaah, 105, 154
Inda, sandstorms n, 124
Indan corn, 19
IntaUaganya, 26, 197
ames Martn, 86
ebe Achmed Aga, 58, 152, 154
ebe Meto, 50
ebe Surgam, 59, 132
ebe era , 161
ebeen, 316
ena, 22
n a, 36, 66, 72
ohnston, Sr Harry, on the
Sesse Isands, 12
Kabaregas, the, 40
Ka u rver, the, 24, 79, 106, 116,
201, 220
Kago, ames, 86
Kagwa, Sr Apoo, 16
Kaka, 315, 316
Kakndu, 38-40, 76
Kampaa, the od capta o
Uganda, 13-17, 66, 177, 224
Kan a, the, 16
Karko , 316
Karnac, 62
Karpetta rver, the, 185
Karuma rapds, the, 39, 41
Kasr-e-n, 63
Katkro o Kampaa, 16
Kena, 29, 86
Keny's, 185
Kerota, 306
Kerrer Hs, 128, 132
Kha a, the, 59, 120, 128
e pounds the Koran, 128
Khartoum, 34, 58, 322
descrpton o , 118, 122-7,
138
donkeys n, 125
Gordon Coege, 123, 125
Mr. Church at, , 104
north, 124, 126
paace o , 120-2, 131, 135
136
330
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Khartoum, route to, 216, 251
sport and socety n, 134-7
war o ce, 123, 125
Khor Attar, 157, 163, 167
Khor Eyu, 50
Kbaka o Kampaa, 13, 16
Kbero, 224
Kchuya, 220
Kanongo, 230
Kng's A rcan R es, 21, 67,
n 80, 94, 133. n 224
Kro, 54
Ksngr, 86
Ksskat ence, 15, 18
Kt rver, the, 31, 98, 182, 249
Ktchener, Lord, 130
Ktes, 162
Kpsprnger, 305
Kno , Leut. R. B., 67, 78
Koba, 29, 87
Kodok-Fashoda, 58, 102, 156
Kom Ombo, 62
Kordo an, 58, 322
Kudu, 100, 175, 320-1
Kuku mountans, 49
Kuku rver, the, 242
Kurs, 183
Kuyu, 204, 249
Lahore, 51
Lado, 53, 54, o
Lado Encave, 239
Lake Abert Edward, 304, 305
Lake Abert Nyan a, 4, 27
Butaba, 40, 196, 224
herd o cob at, 107
hppo n, 233, 304, 305
Mr. Church at, 85, 87
Lake Koga, 4, 38-40, 78
Lake Kwana, 39
Lake No, 57, 154, 165
Lake Rusamba, 306
Lake Vctora Nyan a, 304, 305
source o the Ne, 3, 11, 36
attude o , 39
Lane, Captan George, 225
Lanow rver, the, 78
Leopards, 32, 159, 185, 317, 322
Lcences, game, 291-9, 309-314
Les, whte and red, 23
Lme bushes, 82
Lon, 159, 188
encounters wth, 143, 145
good country or, 147
protecton o , 317, 322
sknnng, 144
where to shoot, 9, 144, 145
L ards, 27, 162
Loggng camps, 27
Luba, 51
Lugard's H, 15
Lugogo rver, the, 23
Lu or, 62
Mad Muah, the, , 36
Mad trbe, the, 4, 32, 46, 96
Mahag, 28, 40, 43, 87
Mahd, the, 120
tomb o , 128
Mahogo, T, 96, 229
Ma e, 73
Makraka, the, 242
Mak Bor, 172, 179
Mambas, 203
Mamura, 314
Manara, Mr., 87
Man escarpment, the, 36
Mara rver, the, 36
Marchand's earthwork, 58
Marsh, Mr. E., 67, 86, 88, 93
takes a he can get, o
Masnd, 21, 24, 28, 196, 230, 306
Mr. Church at, 81, 82
vsts to, 198, 201, 222, 223
Mathews, Ma or, 102
Ma man, Emperor, 133
M'barara, 147
Mengo H, 14, 15
Meshra era , 102, 140, 144,
151, 156
Mettuahs, 18
Mevssa, 210, 260
Me co, 133
Mtary tranng, 99
Met, 32, See Dhurra
M H Msson, 16
Mmosa, the, 31, 202, 217, 219,
226
331
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Mohammedan soders, oo
Mokattam hs, the, 62
Mongaa, 54, 212
Governor o , o
Monkeys, 44
Coobus, 27, 304
Moru, the, 242
Mos utoes, 54, 141, 157, 219,
221, 228, 245
Mount Egon, 4, 39
Mpanga rver, the, 306
Mru, 4, 24, 25, 39, 40, 79, 106
M'samba trees, 26
Mudra, 314, 319
Munyonyo, 16, 66
Mupuku rver, the, 306
Murchson Fas, the, 25, 28, 40
poston o , 41-3
Mr. Church at, S3, 85-7
Murray, Mr., 226
Muyu, h o , 244
M'vu trees, 26
Myan a rver, the, 23, 178
Myoro, 80
Narob, 66
Namrembe, 15
Napoeon Gu , 37
Natves, de ned, 286
restrctons on ther kng
game, 299, 312
Nght- ars, 57, 76
Ne, the, 4
as a means o communca-
ton, 34-6
course o , 34-64
crossng, 240, 246
ota, 25, 28, 34, 42, 87, 224
Foa rapds. See Foa, 30
road, the, 18 1-9
sources o , 36
Ne Provnce, boundares o , 4
Nmue, 11, 147, 224
Mr. Church at, 86, 94
route to, 40-8, 181 -9, 238, 239
Nmue Mountan, 51
Nyer, 189
Okap, 303
Omdurman, descrpton o , 59,
118, 127
batte o , 120, 128, 132
Orb, 191
added to the bag, 167, 183,
186, 213-15
where to shoot, 9, 214
Ormsby, Mr., 67, 88
Ory Besa, 320, 321
Ory Leucory , 320, 322
Ostrches, 161
game reguatons or, 288,
301, 303, 317, 320
Owen Fas, 38
Owen, Roddy, 25
Ows, 303
Panato, 230
Papaw tree, 20
Papyrus, 45, 47, 48, 50, 56, 78
Partrdges, 52, 182, 188, 213
Passports, 322
Peg H, 78
Pecan, 78, 321
Peter, the dog, 20
Pharaohs, the, 34, 60
Phas, tempe o , 61
Pbor rver, the, 323
Pccady, 71
Pgeon, 79
Pnta, 233
Psta, 45, 19s
Pantan-eater, the, 23
Pumbago, 11
Pok H, 185
Poo n Khartoum, 134
Porters, 4, 20, 69
Port Forence, 12
Posho, 69
Prtchard, Dr., 100
Pyramds o Gh eh, 62
Pythons, 159
Ra es, 235, 248
Rameses, statues o , 61
Red deer o E moor, 282
Reedbuck, 305, 320
Red, Leut., 94
Re ap, 49, 53
332
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Re ap H, 53, 182
Rhne, the, 49
Rhnoceros, Burche's or whte,
236, 274-81
Mr. Church's party en-
counter whte, v, 89, 91-3
protecton o , 303, 304, 320,
where to shoot, 9
Rpon Fas, 4, 36-8, 66
Roan anteope. See Anteope
Roman Cathoc msson on
Rubager, 15
Rosetta, 64
Roya Dubn Fusers, 126
Rubager, 15
Ruen or, 198
Sa ar, 21, 189
Saka, the, 60, 123
Sanda, a, 55
Sand-grouse, 135
Sandstorms, 124
Save, Captan, o
Scrvngs, Mr., 67, 104
Secretary Brd, 303, 320, 322
Sem Bey,
Semk eephants, 115, 178
Semk rver, the, 196, 198,212,
306
Sesse Isands, 12
Settma 76
Shabuka, 156, 168
Shambe, 323
Shatuka cataract, 59
Shavng, d cutes o , 280
Shuk Provnce, 57, 102
Shuks, the, 207
Shoe-b, 320
Smsm, 46, 51, 96, 183, 229
Satn, Pasha, 132, 137
Seepng sckness, 307
at Entebbe, 12
Sobat rver, the, 57, 212, 316,
323
Soanum trees, 13
Somaand, 239
Mad Muah, 36
scenery o Northern, 30
Southern Cross, 35
Southern Kordo an, 58
Speke's Trageaphus, 303, 304
Sphn , the, 63
Spre, Mr., 94
Spoonbs, 321
Stenbuck, 305
Stevenson, Captan, 67
Stork, Marabou, 304, 321
sadde-bed, 303, 321
whae-headed, 121, 303, 321
Struve, Mr., 156, 163, 167
Sudan, the, 3
Game Reguatons o , 308-23
Sudan Government steamers,
34, 53, 100.
Sudan, the, ons n, 147
Orb n, 213
tang n, 170
Sudan Ga ette, 316, 322
Sudanese troops, 130, 132-5
Sudd country, 54, 56, 158
Swah, the, 45
a servant, 249
Sweet potatoes, 19, 32, 73
Taasha, the, 129
Tamarnd trees, 49, 183
Tattenham Corner, 41
Tau ka, 58, 102, 156, 167
Tea, 233
Teescopc sght, a, 107
Tembo, 19, 74, 76
Thstes, purpe, 218
Thompson, Leut., 80, 86
Thunderstorms, 21-3, 253
Tang, 103, 321
con used wth top, 169, 211
n pursut o , 142, 151, 160,
169-71
Tobacco, - % 75, 183
Tonga Isand, 58, 102
Tono, 178
Top, con used wth tang, 169,
211
dstrct o the, 151, 212
Toro game reserve, 306
Touracou, the, 23
Tree- rog, the, 10, 27
333
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Tsetse y, 12
Tuktuk, the, 51
Tusker, the, 89
Uganda cob, 93, 105-8, 154, 219,
255, 274
Uganda Protectorate, bound-
ares o , 3, 4, 24
cmate o , 239
Entebbe, capta o , 1 1
Game Reguatons, 286-323
nhabtants o , 20
ons n, 146
morasses n, 218-22
orb n, 213
raway, the, 11, 40
raway e tenson survey, 67,
n
roads o , 1 7
scenery o , 10, 17
sport n, 252
thunderstorms n, 21-3
Uma rver, the, 31, 96, 186, 249
Umbrea thorn, 50
Unyama rver, 29, 48, 189
Unyoro, 4, 10, 24, 25, 40, 224
eephants, 116, 178, 230
Usoga, 4, ID, 37, 67, 76
Vado, 51
Vctora 76, 86
Vctora Ne, the, 4, 24, 36, 201
Vutures, 303
Wadea, 28, 47, 88, 106, 147
Waders, 46
Waganda, the, 23, 86
Waga rver, the, 227, 228
Wapoka rver, the, 227
Wat-a-bt thorn, 141, 202
Wa a rver, the, 306
Wart hog, 321
Waterbuck, 10, 31, 89, 93, 105,
173, 274
habts o , 282-5
protecton o , 305, 320, 322
n pursut o , 158, 159, 186,
225-7
Mrs. Gray's, 102, 163-6,
320-2
Sng-sng, 282-5,
Weaver brds, 24, 46, 202
Whte ants, 97, 202
Whte Ne, , 36, 135, 155,
169, 282, 316
Whte-eared cob, 102
Mr. Church shoots, 103
n pursut o , 153-5, 160
protecton o , 320-2
Wd ass, 303, 320, 322
Wd sheep, 321
Wam Macknnon, s.s., 66
Wson, George, 307
Wson, Leut.-Co. Gordon, 67,
88-91, 96, 103
Wngate, Lady, 121
Wrght, Mr., 100
an bar, 286
ebra, 201, 303, 320, 322
erba thorn, 32
uber, 137
334
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BIG GAME SHOOTING
ON THE E UATOR
By Captan F. A. DICKINSON, F.R.G.S. Wth an Intro-
ducton by Sr Chares Norton Eot, k.c.m.g., ate
Commssoner or Brtsh East A rca. 77 Iustratons
reproduced rom Photographs. 12s. dd. net.
' I 'HERE s an abundance o vauabe n ormaton as to how
to reach the eds where game e sts n arge uanttes.
East A rca s a vertabe Paradse or bg game hunters, and,
as the Author says n hs pre ace, I you don't beeve t, go
there and see or yourse , and you w be bady started.
Academy. It s a wrtten n a straght orward, sensbe way. . . . A who are
gong to East A rca on a huntng trp shoud read t or the vaue o ts advce, and
a who have aready en oyed the e perence or the memores t may evoke.
Trbune. Ths s a capta book or the n ormaton that t contans. . . . The
practca drectons or trackng and shootng these anmas and the numerous
photographs are e ceent. Very use u too are the hnts on out t and the game
reguatons prnted n the append .
Tmes. Ths book s key to be argey consuted by ntendng bg game
shooters. To the genera pubc the voume s key to commend tse hghy by
ts e ceent photographs and ts bree y, amusng, and nterestng stye.
Manchester Guardan. Capt. Dcknson makes a rea addton to the bbo-
graphy o East A rca. In respect o n ormaton hs voume s ute the best on
ts sub ect that has been pubshed. He s aways bre , to the pont, and wthout
trace o a ectaton.
Day News. It gves a cear and nterestng descrpton o the many anmas
ound n that country, and ts pages are ed wth numerous admrabe photo-
graphs. It s a hghy nstructve book, u o n ormaton or those who may oow
n hs steps.
Day Teegraph. Capt. Dcknson tes hs stores we, and many a sportsman
w ee hs bood tnge when readng the many e ceent pages or vewng the
characterstc and descrptve ustratons.
Observer. Hunters o bg game who are contempatng a ourney to the happy
huntng grounds o e uatora A rca w nd Capt. Dcknson's book an e ceent
gude.
Lades' Fed. Ths s another o Mr. ohn Lane's e ceent and we-us-
trated books on bg game shootng. Ths s a book to be read, studed, and
dgested care uy by a who have n contempaton an e pedton to A rca. For
the sportsman whose day s past, t w reca some o the happest hours o hs
e.
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BOMBA DUCKS
An Account o Some o the Every-day Brds and Beasts
Found n a Naturast's E Dorado. By Dougas Dewar.
Wth 38 Iustratons reproduced, rom Photographs, by Capt.
Fayrer, .m.s. Demy 8vo, 6s. net.
Truth, Charmng . . , Mr. Dewar s a naturast wth a happy g t or
wrtng n a brght and entertanng way, yet wthout any sacr ce o scent c
accuracy about the anmas whose habts and characterstcs he has studed.
. . . He shows that the truth about the ways o brds and beasts can be
made wonder uy nterestng wthout recourse to cton at any rate, when
the story s tod by a naturast who knows how to combne vvacty wth
veracty n hs handng o acts.
Day Nevs. Ths new and sumptuous book. . . . Mr. Dewar gves us
a charmng ntroducton to a great many nterestng brds.
Standard. The East has ever been a pace o wonderment, but the wrter
o ' Bombay Ducks ' brngs be ore Western eyes a new set o pctures. . . .
The book s entertanng, even to the reader who s not a naturast rst and a
reader a terwards. . . . The ustratons . . . cannot be too hghy prased.
Sedom have we seen photographs o vng brds that attaned such a hgh
ptch o e ceence.
BIRDS OF THE PLAINS
By Dougas Dewar, Author o Bombay Ducks, etc.
Wth numerous Iustratons. Demy 8vo, os. 6d. net.
Ths conssts o a number o vvd pen-pctures o Indan brds by one who
knows hs sub ect, and makes no attempt to human e them. The sketches
are wrtten n bree y anguage, and w appea to the genera reader as we as
to the naturast. But the book s more than a mere entertanng account
o certan nterestng brds. It dspays orgna observatons and thought.
For nstance, Mr. Dewar s the rst to descrbe the taor-brd's method o
budng ts wonder u nest. The work s one ong protest aganst the
dogmatsm o the modern Darwnsm. ooogsts w have ether to dspose
o Mr. Dewar's ob ectons and arguments or to mod y ther e stng deas
regardng se ua and natura seecton, protectve co our aton and mmcry.
BIRDS B LAND AND SEA
By S. Macar Boraston. Wth 65 Iustratons rom Photo-
graphs taken by the Author and others. Demy 8vo, os. 6d. net.
Lterary Word. It s a ong tme snce we had be ore us a book so
broady attractve ... a book that s but meagrey descrbed by beng caed
a east or overs o ornthoogy.
Athenaum. The ustratons, e ceedng s ty n number, are n most
nstances so e uste that t s d cut to seect any or speca prase.
Western Mornng Nevs. A reay deght u voume o brd-ore . . . the
book a ords us a very rea peasure.
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CE LON : THE PARADISE OF
ADAM. The Record o a Seven ears' Resdence n the
Isand. By Carone Corner. Wth 1 6 u-page Ius-
tratons, reproduced rom Photographs. DemySvo, os. 6d. net.
Day Chronce. Ths book s merry merr , wtty, observant, and readabe :
observaton n ghter ven, however, wth a serous note o n ormaton and e -
perence.
Pa Ma Ga ette. The whoe book s charmng . . . there s a deght uy
ary humour through t a, wth here and there a ash o vvd descrptve power.
Cyntha has wrtten no humdrum gude-book, or dary o trvates, but a seres
o pen pctures, not one o whch s commonpace or du.
Truth. Snguary vvacous and nterestng.
THE PATH TO PARIS
The Record o a Rversde ourney rom Le Havre
TO Pars. By Frank Rutter. Wth 62 Iustratons by
Hansp Fetcher. Demy 8vo, os. 6d. net.
Outook. An atogether deght u voume. . . . Mr. Rutter has a nce ds-
crmnaton or the reay pctures ue and a rank ntoerance or the spurous.
Word. Havng turned to ' The Path to Pars ' t s theren that I ee sure our
eet must be set a rea and new knd o hoday s to be spent. . . . The ustra-
tons are remarkaby ne.
Graphc. ' The Path to Pars,' as depcted by Mr. Fetcher's ascnatng penc
and descrbed by Mr. Rutter's vey pen, s key to ead many hoday-seekers
back to the most nterestng o a Engand's ancestra homes.
Day E press. Atogether a deght u book.
DALMATIA: THE BORDERLAND
'TWI T EAST AND WEST. Wth upwards o 50
Iustratons rom orgna Photographs by Otto Hobach, and
a Map. Crown 8vo, 5s. net.
Word. A very charmng and e tremey use u trave book ... a seres o
ne ustratons ... a country o snguar nterest, hstorca, present, and per-
spectve.
Saturday Revew. Mrs. Hobach's book s pctures ue, her descrpton o ts
peope and paces o nterest beng admraby suppemented by the numerous us-
tratons, or whch her husband s responsbe.
Standard. The poetry o assocaton has been cevery caught, and, what s
more, there s a rea, though never-paraded, knowedge o the hstorca cams o
ths ha - orgotten uarter o the word.
BOSNIA AND HER EGOVINA:
SOME WA SIDE WANDERINGS. By Maude M.
Hobach. Wth 48 Iustratons by Otto Hobach and a
Map. Un orm wth Damata. Crown 8vo, 5s. net.
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RIFLE AND ROMANCE IN
THE INDIAN UNGLE
By Captan A. I. R. Gas urd. Beng the Record
OF Thrteen ears o Indan unge L e. Wth
52 Iustratons by the Author and Reproductons rom
Photographs. Demy 8vo, 7s. 6d. net.
** As sound and readabe a book as we have seen or
many a day, s the opnon o the Athenaum. Captan
Gas urd s we ac uanted wth the sub ect, beng a great
hunter. He s aso an artst who has sketched the beasts o
the unge, mpartng to them a e and vgour whch ony
the sportsman can nterpret.
Lterary Word. To the st o books on bg game shootng that can be com-
mended e uay to the sportsman and the genera reader must be added ths truy
ascnatng work. We have read t through rom cover to cover, and pronounce t
e ceent.
Academy. Search where we w through ths entertanng book, we aways
happen upon sound terature, ne descrpton, good natura hstory, and vey ad-
venture. The author s ceary n ove wth hs sub ect, and the pctures o unge
scenery and unge e are wonder uy vvd ... n a respects a rst-rate book.
LEAVES FROM A MADEIRA
GARDEN
By Chares Thomas-Stan ord, F.S.A. Author o
A Rver o Norway, etc. Wth 16 u-page Ius-
tratons. Crown 8vo.
AFRICA FROM SOUTH TO NORTH
THROUGH MAROTSELAND. ByMA oR
A. St. H. Gbbons. Wth numerous Iustratons rom
Photographs and Maps. Demy 8vo. Two Voumes.
32s. net.
spectator. In ths admrabe narratve Ma or Gbbons tes the tae o hs e -
perences n a manner worthy o so gaant a company. We coud wsh that Brtan
were aways represented by men o hs type n remote corners o the gobe.
Saturday Revew. It s sound wthout beng heavy.
Westmnster Ga ette. It s mpossbe n a ew paragraphs to do ustce to the
contents o these pregnant voumes. A gance at the admrabe maps w show
that no work o the sort has been more thoroughy done. Though Ma or Gbbons
wrtes wth reserve, the book goes ar to e pan the success o Brtsh methods o
admnstraton, and to account or the natura eaousy o some o our beated
rvas.
Standa7-d. Few more mportant books o trave have appeared n recent years
than Ma or Gbbons's two voumes.
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TWO DIANAS IN SOMALILAND
THE RECORD OF A SHOOTING TRIP.
By AGNES HERBERT. Wth numerous
Iustratons. Demy 8vo. Prce 12s. 6d. net.
Postage 6/. e tra. 2
SOME PRESS OTINIONS.
The Sportsman. A more deght u book nay, so deght u a book s not
met wth once n a generaton. It s su ge crs we know o none that can
pretend to compare wth t. There s not a ne n t that cannot be read wth
peasure, whe the whoe voume contans such a record o nterestng and thrng
adventure as one rarey meets wth.
The Fed. The story s tod wth great anmaton throughout, and wth a
sense o humour that carres one on attentvey to the end. We sha be much
mstaken ths very attractve voume on bg-game shootng s not soon n a
second edton.
The Ahe um. Tha.t most attractve book, 'Two Danas n Somaand,'
whch shows the author to be amost as sk u wth her pen as wth the r e and
that s sayng a great dea. The book s e ceptonay nterestng.
The County Genteman. Mss Herbert's ght, bree y stye n deang wth the
humours o camp e s hghy entertanng. We have never read a more p uanty
wrtten narratve o bg-game shootng.
Country L e. Ths sprghty and amusng book, u o wd e and adventure,
o d cutes and dangers pucky overcome, s a wecome change a ter the
nnumerabe rectas o 'mere man' n A rca.
The Word. Mss Herbert weds her pen to good purpose. She has a keen
sense o humour, she goes straght to the pont, she scorns paddng n purpe
patches, and yet so vvd s her stye that she at once nterests the reader n her
sub ect. No man, and ew women, w a to oow her to the end o her
adventures.
The Day News. Certan to receve a rendy wecome rom the genera
reader. A keen eye or the humorous sde o thngs, a uent and vey pen, and
occasonay the dspay o a somewhat caustc wt, make the voume most amusng
readng. We congratuate the authoress on the vey narratve. One can ony
hope that she w once agan go a-huntng, and once agan te ts story.
The Day Teegraph. Ths ney-prnted and we-ustrated voume s a
thoroughy entertanng and amusng record. Every sportsman w nd ths brsk
and vvacous narratve to hs taste.
The Day Ma. ' Two Danas n Somaand ' s a book out o the common
run . . . very attractve readng.
The Scotsman. Certany no one who reads ths narratve w a to be
keeny nterested and amused.
The Day Chronce. ou need not be a sportsman or a sportswoman to
en oy ths book, because t has a vvacty whch woud carry any reader aong. It
s wrtten wth the merry heart that goes a the day, and t has much to record
besdes on kng.
The Evenng Standard. We are sure that no such story was ever reated wth
greater charm or ncsveness. The voume s very wecome.
Pa Ma Ga ette. The book proved o such nterest to the present revewer
that he ound hmse n the sma hours cosng the voume wth regret. Mss
Herbert's book s we worth readng.
The Spectator. Chvary and ar crtcsm ake orce us to gve the pace o
honour among recent sportng books to the 'Two Danas.' We are captvated n
spte o ourseves. By the tme the most pre udced reader gets to the end he w
admt that he has been we entertaned.
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TWO DIANAS IN ALASKA
By AGNES HERBERT & a SHIKARI
Wth numerous Iustratons. Demy 8vo.
Prce I2 . 6d. net. Postage 6d. e tra. 2
SOME PRESS OPINIONS
The Sportsman. The warm and engthy prase we gave to the companon
voume ' Two Danas n Somaand ' mght be repeated. They shoud have a
pace n every sportsman's brary nay, n ar more, or the p uancy o the stye,
and the charmng rendness o t a, enthra the reader.
The Fed. The story s tod by Mss Herbert wth a the ree and oyous sprt
whch charactersed her ormer voume the same ove o e poraton, admraton
or the beauty n nature, keenness or sport, and wtha a womany restrant and
tender-heartedness.
County L e. Mss Herbert's hand has ost nothng o ts sprghtness, she
descrbes graphcay and wth never- ang nerve many e ctng hunts. It s to
the u as darng and vey as the Somaand voume.
T e Academy. We commend ' Two Danas n Aaska' to many readers . . .
an amusng and pctures ue ourney. Scenery s power uy descrbed, and so are
the e ects o ght and shade and the ght o brds. But the ways o the moose
provde the most attractve readng o a.
The Day Teegraph. Ths s a deght u book, o e ua nterest to the
sportsman and the genera reader. Lght and brght are the pages. We hearty
recommend ths book to a readers. It s a admrabe.
orkshre Post. Ths s a book o hgh sprts, m ed wth phosophy. In
these prosac days a romance rom rea e s not to be ressted.
The Mornng Post. Ths deght u book. Lvey s a poor name or t, t
scntates wth e. We are soon carred away wth the est o t, and the rre-
pressbe humour whch bubbes out on every page.
Fortnghty Revew. Mss Herbert has a happy knack o amusng the reader
on amost every page o her brght narratve, and ths aone paces her above the
ma orty o wrters on trave. It s wth her asdes, her not unkndy satre, her
unabated phosophy, that Mss Herbert attracts the reader.
Pa Ma Ga ette. Mss Herbert has a pretty wt, word-pctures o magc
beauty. The book s wtty, pctures ue, e ctng, and the e ect on the tred bran
o a dweer n ctes s that o a bree e brngng heath rom a sautary and.
Day News. Far superor both n terary mert and nterest to the common
run. Shoud secure a wde popuarty.
Manchester Guardan. Fu o nterest, and we are constanty amused by her
dry-pont observatons on men and anmas.
Day Chronce. It s an amusng and nterestng narratve a through.
Those who do not ke kng w nd many other thngs n ths book that they w
ke. Mss Herbert's humour s o re reshng varety. She can observe and
descrbe as we as shoot.
Vest nnster Ga ette. As brght and cheer u a record o sport as any I have
read. E ceent descrptons o the country and natves.
The Standard. Ths voume may be recommended as sure to entertan. It s
vocng the cry o the wd so vvdy and sympathetcay that gves to ths work
ts dstnctve character.
The Naton. Cever to brancy.
Outook. A the competeness o a we-constructed nove. Racy descrptons
o uant scenes and uanter peopes.
OHN LANE, Pubsher, The Bodey Hkad, Vgo Street, London, W.
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Those who possess od etters, documents, corre-
spondence, 3/LSS., scraps o autobography, and aso
mnatures and portrats, reatng to persons and
matters hstorca, terary, potca and soca, shoud
communcate wth Mr. ohn Lane, The Bodey
Head, Vgo Street, London, W., who w at a
tmes be peased to gve hs advce and assstance,
ether as to ther preservaton or pubcaton.
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LIVING MASTERS OF MUSIC
An Iustrated Seres o Monographs deang wth
Contemporary Musca L e, and ncudng Repre-
sentatves o a Branches o the Art. Edted by
Rosa Newmarch. Crown 8vo. Coth. 2s. 6d. net
each voume.
HENR . WOOD. By Rosa Newmarch.
SIR EDWARD ELGAR. By R. . Buckey.
OSEPH OACHIM. By . A. Fuer Matand,
EDWARD MACDOWELL. By L. Oman.
EDVARD GRIEG. By H. T, Fnck.
THEODOR LESCHETI K . By A. Huah.
GIACOMO PUCCINI, By Wakeung Dry.
ALFRED BRUNEAU. By Arthur Hervey.
IGNA PADEREWSKI. By E. A. Baughan.
RICHARD STRAUSS. By A. Kasch.
CLAUDE DEBUSS . By Fran Lebch.
STARS OF THE STAGE
A Seres o Iustrated Bographes o the Leadng
Actors, Actresses, and Dramatsts. Edted by . T,
Gren. Crown 8vo. s. 6d. each net.
** It was Scher who sad: Twne no wreath or the
actor, snce hs work s ora and ephemera. ' Stars o the
Stage 7nay n some degree remove ths reproach. There are
hundreds o/ thousands o/ paygoers, a dboth edtor and pubsher
thnk t reasonabe to assume that a consderabe number o these
woud ke to know somethng about actors, actresses, and
dramatsts, whose work they nghty appaud. Each voume
u be care uy ustrated, and as ar as te t, prntng, and
paper are concerned w be a notabe book. Great care has been
taken n seectng the bographers, 'who n most cases have
aready accumuated rnuch approprate 7 tatera.
Frst Voumes.
ELLEN TERR . By Chrstopher St. ohn.
HERBERT BEERBOHM TREE. By Mrs. George Cran.
W. S. GILBERT. By Edth A. Browne.
CHAS. W NDHAM. By Forence Tegnmouth Shore.
GEORGE BERNARD SHAW. By G. K. Chesterton.
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A CATALOGUE OF
MEMOIRS, BIOGdPHIES, ETC,
WO%KS VPON SVPOLEON
NAPOLEON drTHE INVASION OF ENGLAND :
The Story o the Great Terror, 1 797-1 805. By H. F. B.
Wheeer and A. M. Broadey. Wth upwards o 100 Fu-
page Iustratons reproduced rom Contemporary Portrats, Prnts,
etc. eght n Coour. Two Voumes. 32/. net.
Outook. The book s not merey one to be ordered rom the brary t shoud be
purchased, kept on an accessbe she , and constanty studed by a Engshmen who
ove Engand.
DUMOURIE AND THE DEFENCE OF
ENGLAND AGAINST NAPOLEON. By . Hoand
Rose, Ltt.D. Cantab. , Author o The L e o Napoeon,
and A. M. Broadey, ont-author o Napoeon and the Invason
o Engand. Iustrated wth numerous Portrats, Maps, and
Facsmes. Demy 8vo. s. net.
THE FALL OF NAPOLEON. By Oscar
Brownng,m.a., Author o The Boyhood and outh o Napoeon.
Wth numerous Fu-page Iustratons. Demy 8vo 9 5 nches .
I2 . 6d. net.
spectator. Wthout doubt Mr. Oscar Brownng has produced a book whch shoud have
ts pace n any brary o Napoeonc terature.
Truth. Mr. Oscar Brownng has made not the east, but the most o the romantc
matera at hs command or the story o the a o the greatest gure n hstory.
THE BO HOOD & OUTH OF NAPOLEON,
1 769-1 793. Some Chapters on the eary e o Bonaparte.
By Oscar Brownng, m.a. Wth numerous Iustratons, Por-
trats, etc. Crown 8vo. 5/. net.
Day Ne-ws. Mr. Brownng has wth patence, abour, care u study, and e ceent taste
gven us a very vauabe work, whch w add materay to the terature on ths most
ascnatng o human personates.
THE LOVE AFFAIRS OF NAPOLEON. By
oseph Tur uan. Transated rom the French by ames L. May.
Wth 32 Fu-page Iustratons. Demy 8vo 9 5 nches .
I 2 . 6d. net.
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A CATALOGUE OF
THE DUKE OF REICHSTADT NAPOLEON II.
By Edward de Werthemer. Transated rom the German.
Wth numerous Iustratons. Demy 8vo. s. net. Second
Edton.
Tmes. A most care u and nterestng work whch presents the rst compete and
authortatve account o the e o ths un ortunate Prnce.
Westmnster Ga ette. Ths book, admraby produced, ren orced by many addtona
portrats, s a sod contrbuton to hstory and a monument o patent, we-apped
research.
NAPOLEON'S CON UEST OF PRUSSIA, 1806.
By F. LoRANE Petre. Wth an Introducton by Fed-
Marsha Ear Roberts, V.C, K.G., etc. Wth Maps, Batte
Pans, Portrats, and 6 Fu-page Iustratons. Demy 8vo
9 5 nches , s. 6d. net.
Scotsman. Nether too concse, nor too d use, the book s emnenty readabe. It s the
best work n Engsh on a somewhat crcumscrbed sub ect.
Outook. Mr. Petre has vsted the batte eds and read everythng, and hs monograph s
a mode o what mtary hstory, handed wth enthusasm and terary abty, can be.
NAPOLEON'S CAMPAIGN IN POLAND, 1806-
1807. A Mtary Hstory o Napoeon's Frst War wth Russa,
ver ed rom unpubshed o ca documents. By F. Lorane
Petre. Wth 6 Fu-page Iustratons, Maps, and Pans. New
Edton. Demy 8vo 9 5 nches . s. 6d. net.
A-ny and Navy Chronce. We wecome a second edton o ths vauabe work. . . .
Mr. Lorane Petre s an authorty on the wars o the great Napoeon, and has brought
the greatest care and energy nto hs studes o the sub ect.
NAPOLEON AND THE ARCHDUKE
CHARLES. A Hstory o the Franco-Austran Campagn n
the Vaey o the Danube n 1809. By F. Lorane Petre.
Wth 8 Iustratons and 6 sheets o Maps and Pans. Demy 8vo
9 S nches . s, dd. net.
RALPH HEATHCOTE. Letters o a Dpomatst
Durng the Tme o Napoeon, Gvng an Account o the Dspute
between the Emperor and the Eector o Hesse. By Countess
G NTHER Groben. Wth Numerous Iustratons. Demy 8vo
9 5 nches . s.Gd. net.
* * Raph Heathcote, the son o an Engsh ather and an Asatan mother, vas or
some tme n the Engsh dpomatc servce as rst secretary to I Ir. Book Tayor, mnster
at the Court o Hesse, and on one occason ound hmse very near to makng hstory.
Na oeon becatne perstaded that Tayor was n/ cated n a pot to procure hs assassna-
ton, and nssted on hs dsmssa rom the Hessan Court. As Tayor re used to be
dsmssed, the ncdent at one tme seemed key to resut to the Eector n the oss o hs
throne. Heathcote came nto contact wth a number o notabe peope, ncudng the Mss
Berrys, wth whom he assures hs mother he s not n ove. On the whoe, the-e s 7nuch
nterestng matera or overs o od etters and ournas.
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MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. 5
MEMOIRS OF THE COUNT DE CARTRIE.
A record o the e traordnary events n the e o a French
Royast durng the war n La Vendee, and o hs ght to South-
ampton, where he oowed the humbe occupaton o gardener.
Wth an ntroducton by Frederc Masson, Appendces and Notes
by Perre Amedee Pchot, and other hands, and numerous Iustra-
tons, ncudng a Photogravure Portrat o the Author. Demy 8vo.
12s. 6d. net.
Dat7y News. We have sedom met wth a human document whch has nterested us so
much.
THE OURNAL OF OHN MA NE DURING
A TOUR ON THE CONTINENT UPON ITS RE-
OPENING AFTER THE FALL OF NAPOLEON, 1814.
Edted by hs Grandson, ohn Mayne Coes. Wth 16
Iustratons. Demy 8vo 9 5I nches , s. 6d. net.
WOMEN OF THE SECOND EMPIRE.
Chronces o the Court o Napoeon III. By Frederc Loee.
Wth an ntroducton by Rchard Whteng and 53 u-page
Iustratons, 3 n Photogravure. Demy 8vo. s. net.
standard. 'M. Frdrc Loe has wrtten a remarkabe book, vvd and ptess n ts
descrpton o the ntrgue and dare-dev sprt whch ourshed unchecked at the_ French
Court. . . . Mr. Rchard Whteng's ntroducton s wrtten wth restrant and dgnty.'
LOUIS NAPOLEON AND THE GENESIS OF
THE SECOND EMPIRE. By F. H. Cheetham. Wth
Numerous Iustratons. Demy 8vo 9 5 nches . 6s. net.
MEMOIRS OF MADEMOISELLE DES
ECHEROLLES. Transated rom the French by Mare
Cothde Ba our. Wth an Introducton by G. K. Fortescue,
Portrats, etc. 5/. net.
Lverpoo IMerctry. . . . ths absorbng book. . . . The work has a very decded
hstorca vaue. The transaton s e ceent, and ute notabe n the preservaton o
dom.
ANE AUSTEN'S SAILOR BROTHERS. Beng
the e and Adventures o Sr Francs Austen, g.c.b., Admra o
the Feet, and Rear-Admra Chares Austen. By . H. and E. C.
Hubback. Wth numerous Iustratons. Demy Svo. s. 6c. net.
Mornng- Post. . . . May be wecomed as an mportant addton to Austenana ._. .
t s besdes vauabe or ts gmpses o e n the Navy, ts ustratons o the eengs
and sentments o nava o cers durng the perod that preceded and that whch
oowed the great batte o ust one century ago, the batte whch won so much but
whch cost us Neson.
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A CATALOGUE OF
SOME WOMEN LOVING AND LUCKLESS.
By Teodor de Wy ewa. Transated rom the French by C. H.
e reson, m.a. Wth Numerous Iustratons. Demy 8vo
9 S nches . 7/. dd. net.
POETR AND PROGRESS IN RUSSIA. By
Rosa Newmarch. Wth 6 u-page Portrats. Demy 8vo.
' . 6d. net.
Standard. Dstncty a book that shoud be read . . . peasanty wrtten and we
n ormed.
GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO : A BIOGRAPHICAL
STUD . By Edward Hutton. Wth a Photogravure Fronts-
pece and numerous other Iustratons. Demy 8vo 9 5
nches . 6s. net.
THE LIFE OF PETER ILICH TCHAIKOVSK
840-1 893 . By hs Brother, Modeste Tchakovsky. Edted
and abrdged rom the Russan and German Edtons by Rosa
Newmarch. Wth Numerous Iustratons and Facsmes and an
Introducton by the Edtor. Demy 8vo. s. 6d. net. Second
edton.
The Tmes. A most umnatng commentary on Tchakovsky's musc.
Word. One o the most ascnatng se -reveatons by an artst whch has been gven to
the word. The transaton s e ceent, and worth readng or ts own sake.
Contemporary Revew. The book's appea s, o course, prmary to the musc-over but
there s so much o human and terary nterest n t, such ntmate reveaton o a
snguary nterestng personaty, that man ' who have never come under the spe o
the Pathetc Symphony w be strongy attracted by what s vrtuay the sprtua
autobography o ts composer. Hgh prase s due to the transator and edtor or the
terary sk wth whch she has prepared the Engsh verson o ths ascnatng work . . .
There have been ew coectons o etters pubshed wthn recent years that gve so
vvd a portrat o the wrter as that presented to us n these pages.
COKE OF NORFOLK AND HIS FRIENDS:
The L e o Thomas Wam Coke, Frst Ear o Lecester o
the second creaton, contanng an account o hs Ancestry,
Surroundngs, Pubc Servces, and Prvate Frendshps, and
ncudng many Unpubshed Letters rom Noted Men o hs day,
Engsh and Amercan. By A. M. W, Strng. Wth 20
Photogravure and upwards o 40 other Iustratons reproduced
rom Contemporary Portrats, Prnts, etc. Demy 8vo. 2 vos.
32 . net.
T/e Tmes. Ws thank Mr. Strng or one o the most nterestng memors o recent
years.
Day Teegraph. A very remarkabe terary per ormance. Mrs. Strng has acheved
a resurrecton. She has ashoned a pcture o a dead and orgotten past and brought
be ore our eyes wth the vvdness o breathng e stence the e o our Engsh ancestors
o the eghteenth century.
Pa Ma Ga ette. A work o no common nterest n act, a work whch may amost be
caed un ue.
Evenng Standard. O1M o the most nterestng bographes we have read or years.
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MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. 7
THE LIFE OF SIR HALLIDA MACART-
NE , K.C.M.G., Commander o L Hung Chang's traned
orce n the Taepng Rebeon, ounder o the rst Chnese
Arsena, Secretary to the rst Chnese Embassy to Europe.
Secretary and Councor to the Chnese Legaton n London or
thrty years. By Demetrus C. Bouger, Author o the
Hstory o Chna, the L e o Gordon, etc. Wth Ius-
tratons. Demy 8vo. Prce 21s. net.
Day Graphc. It s sa e to say that ew readers w be abe to put down the book wth-
out eeng the better or havng read t . . . not ony u o persona nterest, but
tes us much that we never knew be ore on some not unmportant detas.
DEVONSHIRE CHARACTERS AND STRANGE
EVENTS. By S. Barng-Goud, m.a., Author o orkshre
Oddtes, etc. Wth 58 Iustratons. Demy 8vo. 2 -.net.
Day News. A ascnatng seres . . . the whoe book s rch n human nterest. It s
by persona touches, drawn rom tradtons and memores, that the dead men surrounded
by the curous panopy o ther tme, are made to ve agan n Mr. Barng-Goud's pages.
CORNISH CHARACTERS AND STRANGE
EVENTS. By S. Barng-Goud. Demy 8vo. s. net.
THE HEART OF GAMBETTA. Transated
rom the French o Francs Laur by Voette Montagu.
Wth an Introducton by ohn Macdonad, Portrats and other
Iustratons. Demy 8vo. ' s. 6d. net.
Day Teegraph. It s Gambetta pourng out hs sou to L6one Leon, the strange,
passonate, master u demagogue, who weded the most persuasve oratory o modern
tmes, acknowedgng hs do, hs nspraton, hs Egera.
THE MEMOIRS OF ANN, LAD FANSHAWE.
Wrtten by Lady Fanshawe. Wth E tracts rom the Correspon-
dence o Sr Rchard Fanshawe. Edted by H. C. Fanshawe.
Wth 38 Fu-page Iustratons, ncudng our n Photogra -ure
and one n Coour. Demy 8vo. 6s. net.
* * Ths Edton has been prnted drect rom the orgna manscrpt n the possesson
o the Fanshawe Famy, and Mr, H. C. Fanshawe contrbutes numerous notes whch
orm a runnng co7nmentary on the te t. Many amous pctures are reproduced, ncud-
ng pantngs by Vea ue and Van Dyck.
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8 A CATALOGUE OF
THE LIFE OF OAN OF ARC. By Anatoe
France. A Transaton by Wn red Stephens. Wth 8 Ius-
tratons. Demy 8vo 9 5 nches . 2 vos. Prce s. net.
THE DAUGHTER OF LOUIS VI. Mare-
Therese-Charotte o France, Duchesse D'Angoueme. By. G.
Lenotre. Wth 13 Fu-page Iustratons. Demy Svo. Prce
10/. 6. net.
WITS, BEAU , AND BEAUTIES OF THE
GEORGIAN ERA. By ohn Fyve, author o Some Famous
Women o Wt and Beauty, Comedy Oueens o the Georgan
Era, etc. Wth a Photogravure Portrat and numerous other
Iustratons. Demy Svo 9 5 nches , s. 6d. net.
LADIES FAIR AND FRAIL. Sketches o the
Dem-monde durng the Eghteenth Century. By Horace
Beackey, author o The Story o a Beaut u Duchess.
Wth I Photogravure and 1 5 other Portrats reproduced rom
contemporary sources. Demy Svo 9 5 nches . 12s. 6d. net.
MADAME DE MAINTENON : Her L e and
Tmes, 163 5-1 7 19. By C. C. Dyson, Wth Photogravure
Pate and 16 other Iustratons. Demy Svo 9 5 nches .
2s. 6d. net.
DR. OHNSON AND MRS. THRALE. By
A. M. Broadey. Wth an Introductory Chapter by Thomas
Seccomee. Wth 24 Iustratons rom rare orgnas, ncudng
a reproducton n coours o the Feowes Mnature o Mrs.
Po by Roche, and a Photogravure o Hardng's sepa drawng
o Dr. ohnson. Demy Svo 9 5 nches , s. 6d. net.
THE DA S OF THE DIRECTOIRE. By
A red Anson, M.A. Wth 48 Fu-page Iustratons,
ncudng many ustratng the dress o the tme. Demy Svo
9 S nches . 6s. net.
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MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. 9
HUBERT AND OHN VAN E CK : Ther L e
and Work. By W. H. ames Weae. Wth 41 Photogravure
and 95 Back and Whte Reproductons. Roya 4to. ,5 5/. net.
Sr Martn Conway's Note.
Neary ha a century has passed snce Mr. W. H. a es Weae, then resdent at
Bruges, begat that ong seres o patent nvestgatons nto the hstory o Netherandsh
art whch was destned to earn so rch a hardest. When he began wo7-k Uemnc was
st caed Hemng, and was abed to have arrved at Bruges as a -wounded soder.
The van Eycks were tte more than egendary heroes. Roger Van der Weydn was tte
more than a name. Most o the other great Netherandsh artsts were ether whoy
'orgotten or named ony n connecton wth pantngs wth whch they had nothng to do.
Mr. Weae dscovered Gerard Davd, and dsentanged hs prncpa works ront Mem-
ne's, wth vhch they were then con used.
VINCEN O FOPPA OF BRESCIA, Founder o
THE Lombard Schoo, Hs L e and Work. By Constance
ocEL N F oukes and Monsgnor Rodo o Ma occh, d.d.,
Rector o the Coego Borromeo, Pava. Based on research n the
Archves o Man, Pava, Bresca, and Genoa, and on the study
o a hs known works. Wth over 100 Iustratons, many n
Photogravure, and 100 Documents. Roya 4to. 3. s. 6d. net.
* * No compete L e o Vncenso Fop a has ever been wrtten: an omsson whch
seems amost ne pcabe n these days o over-producton n the -matter o bo-
graphes o panters, and o sub ects reatng to the art o Itay. The ob ect o the
authors o ths book has been to present a true pcture o the 7nasters e based
upon the testmony o records n Itaan archves. The authors have nearthed a arge
amount o nc u Tatera reatng to Foppa, one o the nost nterestng acts brought to
ght beng that he ved or twenty-three years onger than was ormery supposed. The
ustratons w ncude severa pctures by Foppa hthert* unknown n the hstory o art.
MEMOIRS OF THE DUKES OF URBINO.
Iustratng the Arms, Art and Lterature o Itay rom 1440 to
1630. By ames Dennstoun o Dennstoun. A New Edton
edted by Edward Hutton, wth upwards o 100 Iustratons.
Demy 8vo. 3 vos. s. net.
*** For many years ths great book has been out a_, prnt, athough t st remans the
che authorty upon the Duchy o Urbno rom the begnnng o the teenth century.
Mr. Hutton has care uy edted the w oe work, eavng the te t substantay the same,
but addng a arge mmber o new notes, comments and re erences. Wherever possbe
the reader s drected to orgna sources. Every sort o work has been ad under
contrbuton to ustrate the te t, and bbographes have been supped on many sub ects.
Besdes these notes the book ac ures a new vaue on account o the mass o ustratons
vhch t now contans, thus addng a pctora comment to an hstorca and crtca one,
THE PHILOSOPH OF LONG LIFE. By
ean Fnot. A Transaton by Harry Roberts. Demy 8vo.
9 5I nches , s. 6d. net.
* * Ths s a transaton o a book whch has attaned to the poston o a cassc. It
has aready been transated nto amost every anguage, and has, n France, gone nt our-
teen edtons n the course o a ew years. The book s an e haustve one, and athough
based on scence and phosophy t s n no sense abstruse or remote rom genera nterest.
It deas wth e as emboded not ony n man and n the anma and vegetabe words, but
n a that great vord o as the author hods msnamed nanmate nature as we.
For M. Fnot argues that a thngs have e and conscousness, and tha a sodarty
e sts whch brngs together a bengs and so-caed thngs. He sets hmse te work to
show that e, n ts phosophc concepton, s an eementa orce, a d durabe as nature
herse .
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o A CATALOGUE OF
THE DIAR OF A LAD -IN-WAITING. By
Lady Charotte Bury. Beng the Dary Iustratve o the
Tmes o George the Fourth. Interspersed wth orgna Letters
rom the ate ueen Carone and rom varous other dstngushed
persons. New edton. Edted, wth an Introducton, by A.
Francs Steuart. Wth numerous portrats. Two Vos.
Demy 8vo. 21s. net.
THE LAST OURNALS OF HORACE WAL-
POLE. Durng the Regn o George III rom 1771 to 1783.
Wth Notes by Dr. Doran. Edted wth an Introducton by
A. Francs Steuart, and contanng numerous Portrats 2 n
Photogravure reproduced rom contemporary Pctures, Engravngs,
etc. 2 vos. Un orm wth The Dary o a Lady-n-Watng.
Demy 8vo 9 5| nches . 25/. net.
UNIPER HALL: Rende vous o certan us-
trous Personages durng the French Revouton, ncudng Ae -
ander D'Arbay and Fanny Burney. Comped by Constance
H. Wth numerous Iustratons by Een G. H, and repro-
ductons rom varous Contemporary Portrats. Crown 8 vo. 5 -.net,
ANE AUSTEN : Her Homes and Her Frends.
By Constance H. Numerous Iustratons by Een G. H,
together wth Reproductons rom Od Portrats, etc. Cr. 8vo. 5.net.
THE HOUSE IN ST. MARTIN'S STREET.
Beng Chronces o the Burney Famy. By Constance H,
Author o ane Austen, Her Home, and Her Frends, unper
Ha, etc. Wth numerous Iustratons by Een G. H, and
reproductons o Contemporary Portrats, etc. Demy 8vo. 21s.net.
STOR OF THE PRINCESS DES URSINS IN
SPAIN Camarera-Mayor . By Constance H. Wth 12
Iustratons and a Photogravure Frontspece. New Edton.
Crown 8vo. 5/. net.
MARIA EDGEWORTH AND HER CIRCLE
IN THE DA S OF BONAPARTE AND BOURBON.
By Constance H. Author o ane Austen : Her Homes
and Her Frends, unper Ha, The House n St. Martn's
Street, etc. Wth numerous Iustratons by Een G. H
and Reproductons o Contemporary Portrats, etc. Demy 8vo
9 5| nches , s. net.
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MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc.
NEW LETTERS OF THOMAS CARL LE.
Edted and Annotated by Ae ander Carye, wth Notes and
an Introducton and numerous Iustratons. In Two Voumes.
Demy Svo. 25/. net.
Pa Ma Ga ette. To the portrat o the man, Thomas, these etters do reay add
vaue we can earn to respect and to ke hm the more or the genune goodness o hs
personaty.
Lterary Word. '' It s then Carye, the noby a son, we see n these etters Carye,
the generous and a ectonate brother, the oya and warm-hearted rend, . . . and
above a, Carye as the tender and ath u over o hs w e.
Day Teegraph. The etters are characterstc enough o the Carye we know : very
pctures ue and entertanng, u o e travagant emphass, wrtten, as a rue, at ever
heat, eo uenty rabd and emotona.
NEW LETTERS AND MEMORIALS OF ANE
WELSH CARL LE. A Coecton o htherto Unpubshed
Letters. Annotated by Thomas Carye, and Edted by
Ae ander Carye, wth an Introducton by Sr ames Crchton
Browne, m.d., .d., .r.s., numerous Iustratons drawn n Ltho-
graphy by T. R. Way, and Photogravure Portrats rom htherto
unreproduced Orgnas. In Two Voumes. Demy Svo. 25/. net.
Westmnster Ga ette. Few etters n the anguage have n such per ecton the uates
whch good etters shoud possess. Frank, gay, brant, ndscreet, mmensey cever,
whmsca, and audacous, they revea a character whch, wth whatever aoy o human
n rmty, must endear tse to any reader o understandng.
Word. Throws a dea o new ght on the domestc reatons o the Sage o Chesea.
They aso contan the u te o Mrs. Carye's ascnatng ourna, and her own
' humorous and uanty candd ' narratve o her rst ove-a ar.
THE LOVE LETTERS OF THOMAS CAR-
L LE AND ANE WELSH. Edted by Ae ander Carye,
Nephew o Thomas Carye, edtor o New Letters and
Memoras o ane Wesh Carye, New Letters o Thomas
Carye, etc. Wth 2 Portrats n coour and numerous other
Iustratons. Demy Svo 9 5 nches . 2 vos. s. net.
CARL LE'S FIRST LOVE. Margaret Gordon
Lady Bannerman. An account o her L e, Ancestry and
Homes her Famy and Frends. By R. C. Archbad. Wth
20 Portrats and Iustratons, ncudng a Frontspece n Coour.
Demy Svo 9 5 nches . os. 6d. net.
EMILE OLA : Novest and Re ormer. An
Account o hs L e, Work, and In uence. By E. A. V etey.
Wth numerous Iustratons, Portrats, etc. Demy Svo. s. net.
Mornng Post. Mr. Ernest V etey has gven . . . a very true nsght nto the ams,
character, and e o the novest.
AthenEutn. . . . E haustve and nterestng.
M.A.P. . . . w stand as the cassc bography o oa..'
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12 A CATALOGUE OF
MEMOIRS OF THE MART R KING : beng a
detaed record o the ast two years o the Regn o Hs Most
Sacred Ma esty Kng Chares the Frst, 1 646-1 648-9. Com-
ped by Aan Fea. Wth upwards o 100 Photogravure
Portrats and other Iustratons, ncudng recs. Roya 4to.
105/. net.
Mr. M. H. Spemann n The Academy. The voume s a trumph or the prnter and
pubsher, and a sod contrbuton to Caronan terature.
Pa Ma Ga ette. ' ' The present sumptuous voume, a storehouse o eo uent assocatons
. . comes as near to outward per ecton as anythng we coud desre.
MEMOIRS OF A VANISHED GENERATION
181 3- 1855. Edted by Mrs. Warrenne Bake. Wth numerous
Iustratons. Demy 8vo. 6 . net.
*,* Ths vork s covped ro H dares and etters datng ro n the tme o the Regency
to the tndde o the nneteenth century. The vaue o the vork es n ts natura tn-
embeshed pcture o the e o a cutured and -we-boyn atny n a oregn envronment
at a perod so cose to our own that t s ar ess amar than perods tnuch more remote.
There s an atmosphere o ane Austen s 7oves about the ves o Admra Kno and hs
amy, and a arge number o ue-known contemporares are ntroduced nto Mrs. Bake's
dages.
CESAR FRANCK : A Study. Transated rom the
French o Vncent d'Indy, wth an Introducton by Rosa New-
march. Demy 8vo. s. 6d. net.
* * There s no urer n uence n nodern musc than that o Cesar Franck, or many
ears gnored n every capacty save that o organst o Sa te-Cotde, n Pars, but noa
recognsed as the egtmate successor o Bach and Beetho 'en. Hs spraton rooted n
ove and ath has contrbuted n a revarkabe degree to the regeneraton o the 7nusca
art n France and esewhere. The now amous ' Schoa Cantorum, ounded n Pars n
1896, by A. Guhant, Chares Bordes and Vncent cTIndy, s the drect outcome o hs
n uence. Among the artsts who vere n some sort hs dscpes were Pau Dukas,
Chabrer, Gabre Faure and the great vonst sdye. Hs pups ncude such g ted
composers as Be ot, Augusta Homes, Chausson, Ropart , and d' I tdy. Ths book,
wrtten wth the devoton o a dscpe and the authorty o a master, eaves us wth
a vvd and touchng npresson o the sant-ke composer o' The Beattudes.
FRENCH NOVELISTS OF TO-DA : Maurce
Barres, Rene Ba n, Pau Bourget, Perre de Couevan, Anatoe
France, Perre Lot, Marce Prevost, and Edouard Rod. Bo-
graphca, Descrptve, and Crtca. By Wn red Stephens.
Wth Portrats and Bbographes. Crown 8vo. 5. . net.
* * The vrter, vho has ved much n France, s thoroughy ac anted wth French
e and wth the prncpa currents o French thought. The book s ntended to be a
gude to Engsh readers desrous to keep n touch wth the best present-day French
cton. Speca attenton s gven to the eccesastca, soca, and nteectua probons
e contemporary France and ther n uence upon the works o French novests o to-day.
THE KING'S GENERAL IN THE WEST,
beng the L e o Sr Rchard Granve, Baronet 600-1659 .
By Roger Granve, M.A., Sub-Dean o E eter Cathedra.
Wth Iustratons. Demy 8vo. os. 6d. net.
Westmnster Ga ette. A dstncty nterestng work t w be hghy apprecated by
hstorca students as we as by ordnary readers.
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MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. 13
THE SOUL OF A TURK. By Mrs. de Bunsen.
Wth 8 Fu-page Iustratons. Demy 8vo. os. 6. net.
*,.* Ve hear t I Iosem ' anatcsm and Chrstan superstton but t s not easy
to nd a beck whch goes to the heart o the matter. The Sou o a Turk s the
outcome o severa ourneys n Asatc and European Turkey, notaby one through the
Armenan provnces, down the Tgrs on a ra t to Baghdad and across the Syran Desert
to Damascus. Mrs. de Bunsen made a speca study o the varous orms o regon
e stng n those countres. Here, sde by sde wth the ortna ceremona o the vage
tnos ue and the Chrstan Church, s the resort to Magc and Mystery,
THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF ROBERT
Stephen Hawker, sometme Vcar o Morwenstow n Cornwa.
By C. E. Byes. Wth numerous Iustratons by . Ley
Pethybrdge and others. Demy 8vo. 7/. 6d. net.
Day Teegraph. ... As soon as the voume s opened one nds onese n the presence
o a rea orgna, a man o abty, genus and eccentrcty, o whom one cannot know
too much . . . No one w read ths ascnatng and charmngy produced book wthout
thanks to Mr. Byes and a desre to vst or revst Morwenstow.
THE LIFE OF WILLIAM BLAKE. By Ae ander
Gchrst. Edted wth an Introducton by W.Graham Robertson.
Numerous Reproductons rom Bake's most characterstc and
remarkabe desgns. Demy 8vo. cs.6d. net. New Edton.
Brmngham Post. Nothng seems at a key ever to suppant the Gchrst bography.
Mr. Swnburne prased t magn centy n hs own eo uent essay on Bake, and there
shoud be no need now to pont out ts entre santy, understandng keenness o crtca
nsght, and mastery terary stye. Deang wth one o the most d cut o sub ects,
t ranks among the nest thngs o ts knd that we possess.
GEORGE MEREDITH : Some Characterstcs.
By Rchard Le Gaenne. Wth a Bbography much en-
arged by ohn Lane. Portrat, etc. Crown 8vo. 5/. net. F th
Edton. Revsed.
Punch. A Meredthans must possess 'George Meredth Some Characterstcs,' by
Rchard Le Gaenne. Ths book s a compete and e ceent gude to the novest and
the noves, a sort o Meredthan Bradshaw, wth pctures o the tra c superntendent
and the head o ce at Bo h. Even Phstnes may be won over by the bandshments
o Mr. Le Gaenne.
LIFE OF LORD CHESTERFIELD. An account
o the Ancestry, Persona Character, and Pubc Servces o the
Fourth Ear o Chester ed. By W. H. Crag, M.A. Numerous
Iustratons. Demy 8vo. 1 2/, 6d. net.
Tmes. It s the che pont o Mr. Crag's book to show the sterng uates whch
Chester ed was at too much pans n conceang, to re ect the pershabe trvates o
hs character, and to e hbt hm as a phosophc statesman, not n eror to any o hs
contemporares, e cept Wapoc at one end o hs e, and Chatham at the other.
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14 A CATALOGUE OF
A UEEN OF INDISCRETIONS. The Tragedy
o Carone o Brunswck, ueen o Engand. From the Itaan
o G. P. Cerc. Transated by Frederc Chapman. Wth
numerous Iustratons reproduced rom contemporary Portrats and
Prnts. Demy 8vo. 21s. net.
TAe Day Teegraph. It coud scarcey be done more thoroughy or, on the whoe, n
better taste than s here dspayed by Pro essor Cerc. Mr. Frederc Chapman hmse
contrbutes an uncommony nterestng and we-n ormed ntroducton.
LETTERS AND OURNALS OF SAMUEL
GRIDLE HOWE. Edted by hs Daughter Laura E.
Rchards. Wth Notes and a Pre ace by F. B. Sanborn, an
Introducton by Mrs. ohn Lane, and a Portrat. Demy 8vo
9 5I nches . 16/. net.
Outook. Ths deepy nterestng record o e perence. The voume s worthy produced
and contans a strkng portrat o Howe.
GRIEG AND HIS MUSIC. By H. T. Fnck,
Author o Wagner and hs Works, etc. Wth Iustratons.
Crown 8vo. ' . 6e. net.
EDWARD A. MACDOWELL : a Bography. By
Lawrence Gman, Author o Phases o Modern Musc,
Straus's ' Saome,' The Musc o To-morrow and Other
Studes, Edward Macdowe, etc. Pro usey ustrated.
Crown 8vo. 51. net.
THE LIFE OF ST. MAR MAGDALEN.
Transated rom the Itaan o an Unknown Fourteenth-Century
Wrter by Vaentna Hawtrey. Wth an Introductory Note by
Vernon Lee, and 14 Fu-page Reproductons rom the Od Masters.
Crown 8vo. 5/. net.
Day News. Mss Vaentna Hawtrey has gven a most e ceent Engsh verson o ths
peasant work.
MEN AND LETTERS. By Herbert Pau, m.p.
Fourth Edton. Crown 8vo. s. net.
Day News. Mr. Herbert Pau has done schoars and the readng word n genera a hgh
servce n pubshng ths coecton o hs essays.
ROBERT BROWNING: Essays and Thoughts.
By . T. Netteshp. Wth Portrat. Crown 8vo. 5/. 6d. net.
Thrd Edton.
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MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. 15
WILLIAM MAKEPEACE THACKERA . A
Bography by Lews Meve. Wth 2 Photogravures and
numerous other Iustratons. Demy 8vo 9 5 nches .
25 . net.
* * In co !png ths hog-aphy o Thackeray Mr. Lews Meve who s admttedy
the authorty on the sub ect, has been asssted by numerous Thackeray e perts. Mr.
Meve's name has ong been assocated wth Thackeray, not ony as ounder o the
Ttmarsh Cub, but aso as the author o The Thackeray County and the edtor o the
standard edton o Thackeray's works and Thackeray's Stray Papers. For ma y
vears Mr. Meve has devoted hmse to the coecton o matera reatng to the e and
work o hs sub ect. He has had access to many new etters, and much n ormaton has
come to hand snce the pubcaton o The L e o Thackeray. Now that everythng
abo t te novest s known, t seems that an approprate moment has arrved or a new
bography. Mr. Meve has aso comped a bbography o Thackeray that runs to
upv ards 1.300 tems, by many hundreds 7ore than contaned n any htherto ssued.
Ths secton w be n auabe to the coector. Thackeray's speeches, ncudng severa
never be ore repubshed, have aso been coected. There s a st o portrats o the
novest, and a separate nde to the Bbography.
A LATER PEP S. The Correspondence o Sr
Wam Waer Pepys, Bart., Master n Chancery, 175 8-1 82 5,
wth Mrs. Chapone, Mrs. Hartey, Mrs. Montague, Hannah More,
Wam Franks, Sr ames Macdonad, Ma or Renne, Sr
Nathane Wra a, and others. Edted, wth an Introducton and
Notes, by Ace C. C. Gaussen. Wth numerous Iustratons.
Demy 8vo. In Two Voumes. 32. net.
Dougas Saden n the ueen. Ths s ndsputaby a most vauabe contrbuton to the
terature o the eghteenth century. It s a vertabe storehouse o socety gossp, the
art crtcsm, and the mots o amous peope.
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON, AN ELEG
AND OTHER POEMS, MAINL PERSONAL. By
Rchard Le Gaenne. Crown 8vo. 4/. 6d, 7et.
Gobe. The openng Eegy on R. L. Stevenson ncudes some tender and touchng
passages, and has throughout the merts o sncerty and cearness.
RUD ARD KIPLING : a Crtcsm. By Rchard
Le Gaenne. Wth a Bbography by ohn Lane. Crown
8vo. 3/. 6d. net.
Scotsman It shows a keen nsght nto the essenta uates o terature, and anayses
Mr. Kpng's product wth the sk o a cra tsman . . . the postve and outstandng
merts o Mr. Kpng's contrbuton to the terature o hs tme are marshaed by hs
crtc wth ute uncommon sk.
APOLOGIA DIFFIDENTIS. By W. Compton
Leth. Demy 8vo. s. 6d. net.
*,* The bonk, whch s argey autobographca, descrbes the e ect o d dence upon
an ndvdua e, and contans, wth a consderaton o the nature o shyness, a pea or
a knder tdgment o the nveterate case.
Day Ma. '' Mr. Leth has wrtten a very beaut u book, and perhaps the pubsher's
cam that ths w be a new cassc s not too bod.
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6 MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc.
THE TRUE STOR OF M LIFE : an Auto-
bography by Ace M. Deh, Novest, Wrter, and Muscan.
Demy 8vo. o . 6d. net.
THE LIFE OF W. . FO , Pubc Teacher and
Soca Re ormer, 1 786-1 864. By the ate Rchard Garnett,
C.B., LL.D., concuded by Edward Garnett. Demy 8vo.
9 5 nches. 16/. net.
%* W. . Fo was a pro nnent gure n pubc e ro7n 1820 to 860. From a
weaver's boy he became M.P. or Odham 84'/-862 , and he w aways be remembered
or hs assocaton wth South Pace Cape, where hs Radca opnons and ame as a
preacher and popuar orator brought hm n contact wth an advanced crce o thought u
peope. He was the dscoverer o the youth u Robert Brownng and Harret Martneau,
and the rend o . S. M, Home, ohn Forster, Macready, etc. As an Ant-Corn
Law orator, he swayed, by the po ver o hs eo uence, enthusastc audences. As a
potcan, he was the uns vervng champon o soca re orm and the cause o oppressed
natonates, hs most ceebrated speech beng n support o hs B or Natona Educa-
ton, So, a B whch antcpated many o the eat res o the Educaton B o our
own tme. He ded n 1863. The present L e has been comped rom manuscrpt
tnatera entrusted to Dr. Ga7-nett by Mrs. Brde Fo .
OTIA : Essays. By Armne Thomas Kent. Crown
8vo. 5/. net.
TERRORS OF THE LAW : beng the Portrats
o Three Lawyers the orgna Wer o Hermston, Boody
e reys, and Budy Advocate Macken e. By Francs
Watt. Wth 3 Photogravure Portrats. Fcap. 8vo. s. 6d. net.
The Lterary Word. The book s atogether entertanng t s brsk, ve ', and
e ectve. Mr. Watt has aready, n hs two seres o 'The Law's Lumber Room,'
estabshed hs pace as an essayst n ega ore, and the present book w ncrease hs
reputaton.
CHAMPIONS OF THE FLEET. Captans and
Men-o -War n the Days that Heped to make the Empre. By
Edward Eraser. Wth 16 Fu-page Iustratons. Crown 8vo.
6s.
THE LONDONS OF THE BRITISH FLEET :
The Story o Shps bearng the name o Od Renown n Nava
Annas. By Edward Eraser. Wth 8 Iustratons n coours,
and 20 n back and whte. Crown 8vo. 6s.
OHN LANE, THE BODLE HEAD, VIGO STREET, LONDON, W.
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UNIVERSIT OF CALIFORN
BERKELE
A LIBRAR ,
THIS 300K IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW
500 prrU L'1rr1hrth*LT.' '''t t a ne o
to 1.00 per vouma ter th sv T ** ' '' easng
demand may be renewed L. . o s not n
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C 47690
52448

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