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Thats an impressive setup, certainly puts mine to shame!

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Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Fri Mar 11, 2011 10:48 pm R e ply Q uote

Painting Tutorial
Hi Gamers, I have created this guide to aid you in bringing your Mansions Of Madness miniatures (mini/s from now on) to life, the techniques I use are very straight forward and can be carried out by complete novices, you may have to obtain certain items to aid you on your quest but some you will find around the home. I have aimed this guide at the gamer who thinks he can't paint.

OK, Lets Start!


As you follow my guide if there are items you do not have use something similar, nothing is set in stone, if you dont have masking tape you can use blue-tack, double sided etc so dont be afraid to use your own ingenuity. If you decide to have a go and I really hope you do anything you have to purchase will always be there for your next project.

Step 1 Preparing your minis


Materials; Fine Abrasive Paper Modelling Knife (you can get away without using this) Small File ( you can also get away without using this)

OK using the modelling knife (Young ones please do this supervised or get help,take great care)use a scraping motion, as you would peel a potato Do Not Cut! remove any unsightly mould lines then smooth over with the fine paper, I use a file for tight spots. You don't have to get every little line, just go for the really obvious ones.

I have used some plastic bases to hold my minis in place; I just pushed the peg of the mini into the slots.

Step 2 Undercoating
Materials; White Spray Primer Glove (for protection) Masking Tape Wood Rail Double Sided Tape

I wrap masking tape (sticky side up) around a wooden rail.

I then simply push my minis onto the tape leaving a small space between each one. Then out side you go Do Not spray indoors! I put on a rubber glove to minimize getting paint all over my hands Follow the instructions on the spray can. Hold around 12"away from your minis. Spray using a sweeping motion back and forth along the line of your minis (about the speed as if you were passing a card to someone) try to spray from every angle you can even turn them upside-down, you are aiming to build up 3-4 light coats rather than 1 heavy coat. Allow to dry a little between each coat, usually around 2-3 minutes. When done allow to completely dry.

Using double sided tape I stick all the minis to corks, this makes painting so much easier as you hold the cork not the mini.

Step 3 Lets Paint!


Materials; Fine + Medium + Large size Paint Brushes (See image below)

Mixing Pallet/Tile. (I have used the same 4 white ceramic tiles for over 15 years, they clean up like new every time) Water Container. (Tip,use a septate container for metallic paints) Paint selection. (I use Games Workshop colours, just primary's will suffice if on a limited budget, secondary s help + Black + White + Silver. (Seek out a basic colour wheel if just using a limited pallet this will be a great help to you). Kitchen Towel. Music. I prefer a random shuffle of extreme Metal

I took a look at the pre-painted Arkham minis to help with the colour scheme, I just noted them down on paper, the character cards were at hand also. Don't try to copy exactly the colours you see as using the dip method darkens everything, you have to paint roughly 40% lighter than the colour you want to end up with. You will get the hang of it have confidence OK, pick a colour, once you have mixed your chosen colour do all the minis in turn that require that shade, in my example flesh tone (above image) Add water (50%) to paint (50% )until it flows like Hmmmmmm......lets say milk, just let it flow onto your mini with the tip of your brush, cover evenly as you can, as the paint dries it will naturally go darker in the creases and recesses and lighter on the raised areas, this is what you want. If you end up with flat heavy colour add more water to your paint next time.

Work your way through your minis with each color, take your time, I tend to do the monsters in one batch and characters in another but you can go right through the whole lot with your chosen color. Apply your paint just the same for every color a simple 50/50 wash as before. I am not going to show every stage for every color instead give you these images to aid you. your works of art will soon start to take shape.

Here I will show you exactly how I painted the Shoggoth, you are free to use your own choice of colour. I have added some dry-brushing (DB from now on) over our usual colour wash. First a quick Dry Brush lesson. Using a large brush dip in to your colour

Roll the brush handle round in your fingers on some kitchen towel to spread paint over the bristles.

Next wipe the paint off your brush until no heavy streaks show.

Simply brush over your mini as if you were dusting it quite heavily. I have used black on some kitchen towel so you can see just how much colour still comes off, this is what will happen when applied to your mini As you get the hang of it you can leave more paint on your brush without leaving streaks on your mini.

Shoggoth
Colour wash with (Hormagaunt Purple),do the whole mini.(Image A) As you may have noticed I quite often paint over areas of the mini which will eventually be a different colour than the final colour, this saves a lot of time, the rule is generally paint large areas first and add the smaller areasdetails over the top, at times it is easier to just go back with a little white paint than try to paint round a particularly fiddly bit. DB the next colour (Ultramarines blue) over the whole mini. Next DB(scorpion Green)onto the legs, tentacles, head and down the middle of the back, finally DB iyandern darksun yellow to the ends of the tentacles (Image B)

D .

Paint all the eyes white (Image C) ( dont miss the three under his head, as I nearly did)

Add black for the pupils, I then mixed Red ink with a tiny amount of green ink to darken. Flood this mix onto the eyes and particularly round the sockets this may take 2-3 washes until you are happy, (Image D)

Stage 4 Dipping
Materials; Wood Stain/Varnish EDIT Army Painter Dark Tone Clear Matt Varnish EDIT Army Painter Anti Shine Flat Matt Spray large brush (shown below) Kitchen Towel When you are happy with all your master pieces its time to apply the wood stain/varnish, I use a Polyurethane dark oak varnish, there are some very good water based varnishes you can use, its a case of looking what you can obtain in your area, I would recommend going for a dark one rather than some of the red/yellow shades.

Although the method is called dipping I don't actually like to submerge my minis into the varnish I prefer to brush it on. Once applied (don't be afraid to really blob it on) simply wipe your brush on some kitchen towel then brush over any large runs/puddles the varnish will still creep into the textures leaving a nice smooth finish. Go right through and do all your minis. Allow to dry completely. Paint the character bases your chosen color (I like black) almost straight from the pot add just a little water. I have then given all minis except the Shoggoths and Chthonians (wet + slimy looking) a coat of matt water based acrylic varnish to take away the high gloss shine, you may like this shine but I prefer a duller finish Allow to dry once again, then glue your minis to your game bases.

Congratulations! if you made it this far you have finished!

I would love to see your work if you decide to have a go, it really is very easy. Work through my guide one stage at a time and you will have minis that look similar to these in a reasonable amount of time. You can paint minis from any game just using this guide. I painted these (below) exactly the same way.

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Edite d Sun Nov 4, 2012 3:45 pm Poste d Sat Mar 12, 2011 12:51 am

Se bastian Grawan (rashk tah)

R e ply Q uote

Nice thread, I am interested in your works, so I'll subscribe it for now. Any comments would be greatly received ( are nice to) as this is my very first tutorial. Edit: great minis!!!! Im here to help so mail me if you get stuck

Enjoy Your Painting


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Hi, Since Putting this guide together I have been getting to grips with the Army Painter Quick Shade dark tone And Matt spray, If your budget will allow the expense I can highly recommend Edite d Mon Mar 14, anti 2011 shine 6:55 pm them both. I have Postebeen d Sat Mar very 12, impressed 2011 5:54 with pm the results so far as the dark tone does not dull the colours as much and flows over the mini better, as for the flat matt spray, incredible!
R e ply Q uote

O scar O te ro (ooh_2003)

GREAT job!!! buen trabajo!!

Please, post the end of document. Adios!

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Dam ie n Se b. le osk yange l (dtroy_de _rapcore )

Poste d Sat Mar 12, 2011 7:53 pm R e ply Q uote

This is my 1st time subscribing to a picture, now that's something. Anyway, you're doing a huge favour sharing all these with us. Thanks!

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Gary S. (Phe asant Pluck e r)

Poste d Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:19 am R e ply Q uote

Great stuff Simon. Many thanks for posting. They look great and your explanation was clear. So I'm intrigued enough to ask you a probably difficult/awkward question... If I were to start from nothing and buy the paints, tools, bits and pieces, then would you care to put even a ballpark figure on the cost? Would be much appreciated if you could (or wanted too!). Cheers.

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jim m y chan (citilogic)

Poste d Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:29 am R e ply Q uote

Great Job!!!!

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David Y (d bro)

Poste d Mon Mar 14, 2011 6:30 am R e ply Q uote

Fantastic. Makes me want to give painting a go. Thanks for posting this.

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Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:06 pm R e ply Q uote

Pheasant Plucker wrote: Gre at stuff Sim on. Many thank s for posting. The y look gre at and your e x planation was cle ar. So I'm intrigue d e nough to ask you a probably difficult/awk ward que stion... If I we re to start from nothing and buy the paints, tools, bits and pie ce s, the n would you care to put e ve n a ballpark figure on the cost? W ould be m uch appre ciate d if you could (or wante d too!).

C he e rs.

Thank-you for your interest, OK good question and a tricky one as we are in different parts of theworld country where the cost of living can vary greatly.Is not that much different. I understand we all have a budget to work to and it will depend on what stores you have near by. To buy all the materials from my tutorial here in the UK excluding paint would be around 20 and this would give me multiples of many of the items and some would last years and years (some of my corks are now over 20 years old) basically once you stand the initial outlay you are set for a very long time. Here in the UK we have many Pound Shops where everything in store is just 1 so for example 1 pack of 5 rolls of masking Tape for just 1, 1 pack of 15 corks 1 etc, I could go into one of these stores and come out with everything I need and more besides. Wilkinson's (Wilco's) is where I get my wood stain/varnish from here in the UK. As I mentioned I use Games Workshop Paints this is where the wallet is hit the hardest for beginners but there are many acrylic paints on the market and you may find some to suit your needs and budget. Keep in mind you will actually use very little paint as my technique involves a 50/50 water to paint mix some of my paints are ancient, just make sure you clean the lids out regularly and they will last a very long time. Start small with a few basic colours then just add them as you need them again it all depends on your budget, the option of clubbing together with fellow gamers will spread the cost. I hope this gives you the answer you are looking for, what I can guarantee is once you dip your first mini and see the results before your eyes you will be hooked! Happy Painting Simon.

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Edite d Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:53 pm Poste d Mon Mar 14, 2011 7:45 pm

Gary S. (Phe asant Pluck e r)

R e ply Q uote

Cheers Simon - and don't worry we're not as far away as you may think The paints seem to be around 2 GBP each. so if I start with a few it looks do-able. Thanks!

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C raig R ose (Tsugo)

Poste d Mon Mar 14, 2011 8:07 pm R e ply Q uote

Thanks for the tutorial. It was just the kick in the pants I needed to break out my old set of paints and get started. Your minis look fantastic.

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Te ik C hooi O h (chooi)

Poste d Mon Mar 14, 2011 8:13 pm R e ply Q uote

Great job Simon, and I am speaking from having had the opportunity to handle and look at them up close in real life! You definitely should hire your services out to idiots like me who like their mini painted but lack the time and most importantly, the skill!

Poste d Tue Mar 15, 2011 1:30 am

R e ply Q uote C raig Ste wart (R e vGiark )

Much thanks for this. I've never been able to quite get the hang of washes before, but your dry brush explanation gives me a good idea of how to improve my work. Someone should sticky this as the beginners guide to painting or something. The Gamers' Table

Edite d Tue Mar 15, 2011 6:06 pm Poste d Tue Mar 15, 2011 6:04 pm

Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

R e ply Q uote RevGiark wrote: Much thank s for this. I've ne ve r be e n able to quite ge t the hang of washe s be fore , but your dry brush e x planation give s m e a good ide a of how to im prove m y work . Som e one should stick y this as the be ginne rs guide to painting or som e thing. The Gam e rs' Table

Hi Craig thank-you, Ive seen your great video's, I really wish I had the know how to do a video, It would be so much easier to show my technique in motion, you would master the wash then I am sure. Sticky? Hmmmm......I have no Idea how to sticky this, or how to get maximum exposure for my guide, it would be nice if every gamer thinking about having a go at painting could see this, or even know where to find it. Good Gaming

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Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:58 pm R e ply Q uote

Tsugo wrote: Thank s for the tutorial. It was just the k ick in the pants I ne e de d to bre ak out m y old se t of paints and ge t starte d. Your m inis look fantastic.

Thats the spirit blow out the cobwebs........ Remember I would like to see them.

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Danni Durante (tik itack )

Poste d Tue Mar 15, 2011 9:02 pm R e ply Q uote

You, good sir, are fantastic! Thanks for sharing... thanks for instilling some motivation. Kudos to you.

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Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Tue Mar 15, 2011 11:27 pm R e ply Q uote

Pheasant Plucker wrote: C he e rs Sim on - and don't worry we 're not as far away as you m ay think The paints se e m to be around 2 GBP e ach. so if I start with a fe w it look s do-able .

Thank s!

Oh! Ahem! I just noticed, how embarrassing Ha! when I glanced at your flag below your geek name and didnt see the union jack I just asumed you where over seas, What can I say " I dont get out much . You are right we are not that far away, just me thats on another planet You have a Wilkinson's in Gloucestershire, you will find almost everything there, they have the varnish I use, pictured in the painting guide.

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Bob R obe rts (badinfo)

Good Luck. Poste d Tue Mar 15, 2011 11:51 pm


R e ply Q uote

From a long time painter, nicely done sir.

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Phil Mawson (Nyogtha)

Poste d W e d Mar 16, 2011 3:27 am R e ply Q uote

RevGiark wrote: Much thank s for this. I've ne ve r be e n able to quite ge t the hang of washe s be fore , but your dry brush e x planation give s m e a good ide a of how to im prove m y work . Som e one should stick y this as the be ginne rs guide to painting or som e thing. The Gam e rs' Table

If you add a tiny drop of washing up liquid or something similar to your ink/wash it breaks the surface tension of the water and allows it to flow much better and you don't get that 'watermark' look. Also, if you are drybrushing try using a glaze (basically like a wash except watered down even more) afterwards. It softens the edges and makes it look a lot nicer. Oh, and don't forget that most paints still need watering down to some extent before applying them. Again, it's about getting the paint to flow properly, makes the job a lot easier. It's a mistake I made for ages. Still learning, my biggest obstacle is patience.

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Gre g C Z (le ax e )

Poste d W e d Mar 16, 2011 3:58 am R e ply Q uote

Miniature Painters Guild join...

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Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Thu Mar 17, 2011 6:43 am R e ply Q uote

leaxe wrote: Miniature Painte rs Guild join...

Thank-you for this I have posted to the Guild, Nice!

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Bruce Moffatt (Scrat)

Poste d Thu Mar 17, 2011 6:59 pm R e ply Q uote

Simon, well done on the tutorial. Easy to understand and takes all the intimidation out of trying your hand at painting. My compliments to you Sir. Excellent paintwork on your miniatures too. I am in awe!
Nyogtha wrote: If you add a tiny drop of washing up liquid or som e thing sim ilar to your ink /wash it bre ak s the surface te nsion of the wate r and allows it to flow m uch be tte r and you don't ge t that 'wate rm ark ' look . Also, if you are drybrushing try using a glaze (basically lik e a wash e x ce pt wate re d down e ve n m ore ) afte rwards. It softe ns the e dge s and m ak e s it look a lot nice r. O h, and don't forge t that m ost paints still ne e d wate ring down to som e e x te nt be fore applying the m . Again, it's about ge tting the paint to flow prope rly, m ak e s the job a lot e asie r. It's a m istak e I m ade for age s. Still le arning, m y bigge st obstacle is patie nce .

Both really important tips Phil! I had so much trouble with brushing Tamiya paints until I realised the damn things were drying on the brush before I got it to the miniature. Now I do a colour in batches and have a fresh pot of water and a mixing palette before I start. Every time I go back to the paint I dip just the tip of the brush in CLEAN water. It picks up some of the paint during the batch job, then I clean it out straight after finishing. If I end up with too thin a mix, I use the palette as a 'buffer' of paint and water to equalize the mix. Sounds complicated, but it works! GW paints are less prone to the problem, but it still happens after a while. Breaking surface tension on washes is a wicked trick too. It takes all the effort out of working the colour into the right place. I believe the new range of GW washes are pre-done as using them is a dream compared to the older range. The other old school painters trick is to look after your brushes. Never soak your brush with paint. When you are finished painting, clean your brushes in clean water and reshape the bristles to a point by gently turning the brush as you dry it on a tissue or paper towel. Sable brushes will cost more but will keep their shape better and last longer than synthetic bristles. There a few good deals on paint and brushes on eBay if you are patient.
Edite d Fri Mar 18, 2011 9:18 am Poste d Fri Mar 18, 2011 9:16 am Phil Mawson (Nyogtha) R e ply Q uote

I've mainly been using Army Painter paints, partly because they come in those handy dropper bottles and partly because I find the dilution of the paint to be better (of course this may mean the paint doesn't go as far). Although the GW is good for specific colours, as are some other brands. In fact I think that is a valid point to be made, the variety of different brands of paint available. That in itself can be confusing and daunting. I don't know which are the best, if any. I keep trying different ones as I run out of stuff. I plan to get a set of Vajello (sp?) paints next time. Also, something I thought of that seems a common mistake (perhaps mistake isn't quite the right word, but anyway). When applying a colour you don't have try and cover an area with just one coat, in fact you tend to get a better result if you build it up over two or three coats. Again this is another thing which comes down to paint consistency. It should be thin, almost like milk (which is how a wash was first described to me, but since discovered that is too thick for a wash, although not by much). I've been taking some photos in stages of the cultists I've been doing that might show what I mean. Finally, I have been meaning to post a link to this painter's You Tube site. She is excellent in everyway. She has tons of instructional videos teaching theory as well as techniques. Check it out you won't be dissapointed. Poor lass has a nasty cough though. http://www.youtube.com/user/GirlPainting

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J Danie ls (de vilsplaything)

Poste d Fri Mar 18, 2011 2:17 pm R e ply Q uote

Thanks very much for providing this excellent post. I really found your step by step tutorial helpful painting the Shaggoths. I was wondering if you would be willing to share what paint colors you used and how you applied the layers to some of the other Monsters and Investigators. I don't want to

have great looking Shaggoth's and shoddy looking Chthonians. :-)

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Ge sine Stanie nda (Kallisto)

Poste d Fri Mar 18, 2011 11:06 pm R e ply Q uote

First of: this is a gret thread. Secondly: I LOVE your minis. Thirdly: I have one question. You use the DB method. Now, I have heard about and read about it, but what I never quite understood is why you would use it instead of applying the wet paint. Since I have started painting minis myself, I would love to know why. Perhaps you could explain? Cheers!

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Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Sat Mar 19, 2011 12:25 pm R e ply Q uote

Kallisto wrote: First of: this is a gre t thre ad. Se condly: I LO VE your m inis. Thirdly: I have one que stion. You use the DB m e thod. Now, I have he ard about and re ad about it, but what I ne ve r quite unde rstood is why you would use it inste ad of applying the we t paint. Since I have starte d painting m inis m yse lf, I would love to k now why. Pe rhaps you could e x plain? C he e rs!

Hi, I will have a go for you. The best way to see first hand at what dry brushing is all about is to paint an old test mini black, now dry-brush it white,you will notice the base colour is still visible in all the shaded areas giving your mini depth this is what I did the very first time I discovered the method and it gave me the answers to your very same question, also it is a very quick way of painting + adding colour variation over a large surface.

Take a look at my Shoggoth up close (click image and go to large image) blue has been dry-brushed over the purple wash base colour but not covered it completely, some of the purple still shows through, then again in fewer areas with green over the blue, again some of the purple + blue shows through, if you tried this with washes it just would not give you this nice variation of colours without many hours off careful blending. Another example would be Mmmmmm......lets say you just want your Shoggoths green, if you start with a dark green base colour ( paint the whole mini) this will serve as the dark shade, now using a lighter shade of the green heavily dry-brush over the base colour. lighten the colour again now dry-brush sparingly, then lighten further, apply to the top most areas of texture (e.g. only do the large muscles in the legs,not all the leg, If you do all areas of the mini you will just end up with a light coloured Shoggoth with no noticeable areas of artificial light and very

little form). The more stages you add to the highlights the smoother the transition from dark to light will be. Dry-brushing allows you to create artificial light across the textures of the mini, or in the Shoggoth case colour variation. For the last highlight dry-brush a very light green maybe with a little yellow added to the absolute top most areas where you want light to sparkle, it is important not to over do this! I hope my explanation has shed some light on the method for you, I do find it actually quite difficult to get across in words. Take a look at this link I think it gets across the basic idea very well.(I hope to do a video myself in the future) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWl8-cozI5w

Enjoy your painting

Edite d Sun Mar 20, 2011 2:41 pm Poste d Sun Mar 20, 2011 1:50 pm

Ge sine Stanie nda (Kallisto)

R e ply Q uote

Thanks, this is so cool! I will get some of my doublets (I have identical minis for Descent and Runebound) and will try this! Thanks for taking the time to answer my question, I really, really appreciate it.

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Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Sun Mar 20, 2011 2:00 pm R e ply Q uote

devilsplaything wrote: Thank s ve ry m uch for providing this e x ce lle nt post. I re ally found your ste p by ste p tutorial he lpful painting the Shaggoths. I was wonde ring if you would be willing to share what paint colors you use d and how you applie d the laye rs to som e of the othe r Monste rs and Inve stigators. I don't want to have gre at look ing Shaggoth's and shoddy look ing C hthonians. :-)

There are no multiple layers of paint used ( except shoggoth),paint only 1 wash of paint for each colour you apply, if you apply more coats you loose your highlights and end up with flat colour,

Take a look at the professors jacket (he is finished prior to dipping) see how there are noticeable light patches on the top of the folds, and in the creases dark patches this is because the single wash of paint settles into the recesses and goes thin on the high places. He only took around 10- 15 minutes to paint, it really is a fast method!

The shoggoths where shown sepporately because they required multiple colours on the same large surface. My tutorial shows you how to get miniatures to the table quickly with basic but effective methods. If you have more time on your hands you can start individually shading and hi-lighting but this is not the way for non painters wanting to just get on with their game in colour.( I did add a little blue to

my hounds + pink hi-light to my purple Chthonians) Of course there are methods for producing much better results but these take time and are not a very friendly entry point into painting. I plan to give a colour breakdown under my posted character minis soon.

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Funk y Fran (Funk y Fran)

Poste d Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:01 pm R e ply Q uote

Great work Simon and Shaz. It's now official. I am no longer just a BGG girlfriend, but a BGG in my own right!

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Te ik C hooi O h (chooi)

Poste d Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:11 am R e ply Q uote

Thank-you for your interest.


right!

Funky Fran wrote:

Gre at work Sim on and Shaz. It's now official. I am no longe r just a BGG girlfrie nd, but a BGG in m y own

wow, I am so proud!

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Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:14 am R e ply Q uote

chooi wrote: Funky Fran wrote: Gre at work Sim on and Shaz. It's now official. I am no longe r just a BGG girlfrie nd, but a BGG in m y own right!

wow, I am so proud!

Chooi! you are a lucky lucky man. Welcome to our world Fran

Poste d Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:53 am

J Danie ls (de vilsplaything)

R e ply color Q uotemix did you use to get the Blue-ish trim on the cultist robes? What Also, what mix did you use for the blue highlights on the Hound of Tindalos?

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Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d W e d Mar 23, 2011 4:17 pm R e ply Q uote

devilsplaything wrote: W hat color m ix did you use to ge t the Blue -ish trim on the cultist robe s? Also, what m ix did you use for the blue highlights on the Hound of Tindalos?

Hi, Cultist Robes Trim = Hawk Turquoise Hounds = Enchanted blue + White ( just to lighten a little) By Games Workshop Happy to help.

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alfadir (Alfadir)

Poste d W e d Mar 23, 2011 9:22 pm R e ply Q uote

Ridiculously good!!
Poste d Thu Mar 24, 2011 12:54 am R e ply Q uote

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Fe rn Sanzch (nk noa)

Awesome!!!! Simon
Poste d Fri Mar 25, 2011 2:05 pm R e ply Q uote

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Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

nknoa wrote: Awe som e !!!! Sim on

Thank-you, Welcome to Board Game Geek

"a truly amazing place!"

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Patrick Draad (Patrick spe l)

Poste d Fri Mar 25, 2011 10:01 pm R e ply Q uote

Hi Simon ! Thank you so much for these tutorials, I have bought all the stuff to go paint on my own. I have never done such a thing, so your help is greatly appreciated ! You really inspire people to get a go on painting, as I never thought I could do it, this motivated me to give it a go. I will send you the photo's when they are done. In the meantime, any tips in everything is much appreciated ! Grtz Patrick(spel) PS. One question about the varnish though.... I cannot seem to find the right thing. Everytime I ask about dark varnish they only give me " uncoloured" varnish. It should be some other name in Dutch I guess. Which is better, varnish that holds solvent or water based ? Thanks for the answer !

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Phil Mawson (Nyogtha)

Poste d Sun Mar 27, 2011 4:11 pm R e ply Q uote

It might be wood stain you have to ask for, or you could always try Quickshade from Army Painter, go for the mid-shade one. It is specifically designed for dipping and it's easier to get better results.

I've tried both ways and after using Quickshade I would never go back to using just normal varnish, too hit and miss IMHO. http://www.thearmypainter.com/

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Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:17 pm R e ply Q uote

Patrickspel wrote: Hi Sim on ! Thank you so m uch for the se tutorials, I have bought all the stuff to go paint on m y own. I have ne ve r done such a thing, so your he lp is gre atly appre ciate d ! You re ally inspire pe ople to ge t a go on painting, as I ne ve r thought I could do it, this m otivate d m e to give it a go. I will se nd you the photo's whe n the y are done . In the m e antim e , any tips in e ve rything is m uch appre ciate d ! Grtz Patrick (spe l) PS. O ne que stion about the varnish though.... I cannot se e m to find the right thing. Eve rytim e I ask about dark varnish the y only give m e " uncoloure d" varnish. It should be som e othe r nam e in Dutch I gue ss. W hich is be tte r, varnish that holds solve nt or wate r base d ? Thank s for the answe r !

Great stuff! take your time and you will be OK, speed comes with experience I'm here if you are unsure about anything. Regarding the wood stain/varnish I use a solvent based Dark Oak, it colours and varnishes all in one coat, I have found the water based equivalent colour very satisfactory after testing. I don't really know what is available in the hardware stores in different parts of the world, I don't want you to be worried about ruining your paintings so..............Phils post could be your life line, I have taken a look and it does look the business although a little expensive, I pay under 3.00 pet tin, Army Painter is 15-20 but it will do a huge amount of minis. I think I will give it a try it myself.
Nyogtha wrote: It m ight be wood stain you have to ask for, or you could always try Q uick shade from Arm y Painte r, go for the m id-shade one . It is spe cifically de signe d for dipping and it's e asie r to ge t be tte r re sults. I've trie d both ways and afte r using Q uick shade I would ne ve r go back to using just norm al varnish, too hit and m iss IMHO . http://www.the arm ypainte r.com /

One of the joys of painting is you never stop learning, sharing tips etc is all part of what makes it great, Thanks Phil.

Edite d Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:25 am Poste d Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:14 am

Phil Mawson (Nyogtha)

R e ply Q uote

No worries. It is expensive, but worth it I think. Also you can combine the three different shades to get varying shades from the dipping, which is nice, although a little tricker.

2
J Danie ls (de vilsplaything)

Poste d Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:39 am R e ply Q uote

Does anyone know if Quickshade from Army Painter is available in Canada?

Poste d Tue Mar 29, 2011 7:27 pm

Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

R e ply Q uote Nyogtha wrote: No worrie s. It is e x pe nsive , but worth it I think . Also you can com bine the thre e diffe re nt shade s to ge t varying shade s from the dipping, which is nice , although a little trick e r.

I have ordered a tin of strong shade from eBay, I will use it on a couple of test minis before using it on my next project, currently I have my Last Night On Earth minis all ready for the spray primer so I will post some shots when they are done. Thanks again Phil

2
Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:40 pm R e ply Q uote

devilsplaything wrote: Doe s anyone k now if Q uick shade from Arm y Painte r is available in C anada?

Have you tried good old eBay? I have just picked up a tin.

2
Phil Mawson (Nyogtha)

Poste d Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:41 pm R e ply Q uote

devilsplaything wrote: Doe s anyone k now if Q uick shade from Arm y Painte r is available in C anada?

Pretty sure Army Painter products are available your side of the pond.

2
Mack Mille r (history_ge e k )

Poste d Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:05 pm R e ply Q uote

Hi all, I'm fairly new to BGG as a member. GREAT tutorial Simon!!! I have been painting for quite a few years although not regularly and not always minis (ceramics, crafts, etc). I and my family just started getting back into painting minis about a month ago. In particular, The Dystopian ships from Spartan Games. Any comments about painting ships or vehicles? We are using GW paints, the white topped ones which you have many of in your studio. We do have the washes and glazes also. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Again, thanks Simon and all who posted tips. Cheers! PS Have you used any of the weathering pigments? Just wondering how they work since my Dystopian ships are old iron sides. Thanx!

Edite d W e d Mar 30, 2011 6:07 am Poste d W e d Mar 30, 2011 6:07 am

Phil Mawson (Nyogtha)

R e ply Q uote history_geek wrote: PS Have you use d any of the we athe ring pigm e nts? Just wonde ring how the y work since m y Dystopian ships are old iron side s. Thanx !

Just recently came across those and wondered about use and how they would look. Not found anythig like any reviews or tutorials with them up to now. Be most interested if you find anything yourself.

Poste d W e d Mar 30, 2011 5:04 pm R e ply Q uote

Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

history_geek wrote: Hi all, I'm fairly ne w to BGG as a m e m be r. GR EAT tutorial Sim on!!! I have be e n painting for quite a fe w ye ars although not re gularly and not always m inis (ce ram ics, crafts, e tc). I and m y fam ily just starte d ge tting back into painting m inis about a m onth ago. In particular, The Dystopian ships from Spartan Gam e s. Any com m e nts about painting ships or ve hicle s? W e are using GW paints, the white toppe d one s which you have m any of in your studio. W e do have the washe s and glaze s also. Any tips would be gre atly appre ciate d. Again, thank s Sim on and all who poste d tips. C he e rs! PS Have you use d any of the we athe ring pigm e nts? Just wonde ring how the y work since m y Dystopian ships are old iron side s. Thanx !

Hi joni, I have a small range of weathering powders which I have only used on large scale models, all the weathering I have ever done on game minis has been achieved with paint, ink wash, dry brushing etc, sorry I am not much of an expert in this area. Regarding your ships, if I was to paint them for the game table I would use a base colour to suit the mini then bring out the detail with dry-brushing lighter tones over the top, depending on the mini add some colour washes where required, finally paint in all the small detail. Not having painted many ships myself I think I would probably try a couple of different styles to see which one looks the best, eg try as described in my tutorial, light colour wash over a gray undercoat or bold flat colour maybe, sorry I cant be more specific I would experiment a little. I painted the ships below by dry-brushing over the base colour then applying colour washes to the towers, finish by painting in the detail. I hope this helps, but as I mentioned I'm no expert. Good Luck!

2
(awak e ne ddragon)

Poste d Thu Mar 31, 2011 11:47 pm R e ply Q uote

This is precisely why BGG needs "stickies". One of the best tutorials I've ever seen!

3
Patrick Draad (Patrick spe l)

Poste d Fri Apr 1, 2011 9:36 am R e ply Q uote

Hi Simon,. I've bought some stainer, also a dark oak one. When I opened the pot, the stuff inside looked very brown and sticky. When I look at your pot, the structure of the varnish is smooth. I applied it on Jenny and she really looked nasty when I put the stuff on, maybe I used the wrong thing or didn't use enough (you wrote really blob it in, I just didn't I guess, it left really ugly brown stains.) The flesh look on the face, arms and legs did get another darker colour when I applied it, is that normal ? I immediately wiped it and painted the whole thing again. It now is to it's restored state before apllying. Still I like your shiny look on the figures and really want it too, got any more tips how to ? Maybe with pictures how you dot it ?

Thanks in advance, Patrickspel

2
Paul C (Eagle O v De ath)

Poste d Fri Apr 1, 2011 11:07 am R e ply Q uote

Hi Patrickspel, I have exactly the same problem. After applying Army Painter quick shade (strong), Jenny looks like she has an accident with a perma-tan bottle or just finished a bout of mud wrestling All the other investigators however look awesome (I'll send in some picks after I have applied the mat varnish). I was wondering if I could perhaps touch up the flesh colours after the quick shade varnish dries. Anyone know if this is possible? Anyway thanks for the guide Simon I really enjoyed painting those little suckers. Now for the monsters Pauly

Edite d Fri Apr 1, 2011 3:28 pm Poste d Fri Apr 1, 2011 3:24 pm

Phil Mawson (Nyogtha)

R e ply Q uote

Be sure to watch the tutorial videos on the Army Painter website. It is not just a case of putting the Quickshade or stain on, you have to remove the excess by shaking it off quite vigoursly otherwise you will end up with just a dark messy mini. www.thearmypainter.com/

2
Paul C (Eagle O v De ath)

Poste d Fri Apr 1, 2011 5:22 pm R e ply Q uote

@Phil Mawson. I applied with a brush and removed the excess but this still left the Jenny model with brown streaks. To be honest Simon's figure does too. I hear you can paint over the Quickshade to give additional highlights. So I am gonna give that a shot. The others look OK as they are though. Pauly

2
Phil Mawson (Nyogtha)

Poste d Fri Apr 1, 2011 5:53 pm R e ply Q uote

Applying the Quickshade with a brush is not the best way to do it. You would only brush it on if the model is too big to dip in the tin. Dip the mini right in the tin, don't be shy. Then get hold of the base of the mini with something like some pliers to give a solid grip and swing and flick the mini to remove all the excess quickshade. Did you watch the video? It is highly recommended on how to use the Quickshade properly otherwise you will end up with that horrible streaky, 'oops I fell asleep in a tanning booth' look. If you still need more help with using it I suggest this Quickshade tutorial from the GirlPainting, in fact check out the rest of her video tutorials, some of the best you will find IMHO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXKD1zHpE7w I'll find some images of stuff done with Quickshade so you can see how it should look.

Edite d Fri Apr 1, 2011 7:30 pm Poste d Fri Apr 1, 2011 7:25 pm

Phil Mawson (Nyogtha)

R e ply Q uote

Here are a couple of pics of stuff from Army Painter using Quickshade. There is an extensive gallery on their website too showing various techniques with a variety of minis.

Against all logic I managed to get the above video posted to the MoM videos section, so if you don't want to leave the Geek you can watch it right here: http://boardgamegeek.com/video/6230/mansions-of-madness/how-...

Edite d Fri Apr 1, 2011 11:51 pm Poste d Fri Apr 1, 2011 7:57 pm

Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

R e ply Q uote Patrickspel wrote: Hi Sim on,. I've bought som e staine r, also a dark oak one . W he n I ope ne d the pot, the stuff inside look e d ve ry brown and stick y. W he n I look at your pot, the structure of the varnish is sm ooth. I applie d it on Je nny and she re ally look e d nasty whe n I put the stuff on, m aybe I use d the wrong thing or didn't use e nough (you wrote re ally blob it in, I just didn't I gue ss, it le ft re ally ugly brown stains.) The fle sh look on the face , arm s and le gs did ge t anothe r dark e r colour whe n I applie d it, is that norm al ? I im m e diate ly wipe d it and painte d the whole thing again. It now is to it's re store d state be fore apllying. Still I lik e your shiny look on the figure s and re ally want it too, got any m ore tips how to ? Maybe with picture s how you dot it ? Thank s in advance , Patrick spe l

Hi, My guess is the varnish formula may be different and so behaves differently, my varnish is also quite dark and sticky but runs nice once applied to the mini, I would advise you to do a test mini first any old thing will do. I am awaiting delivery of the army Painter Quickshade I will post some pictures of the whole process with a test mini so keep checking. I think It will be much easier to give advice on dipping if I can use a ready available product. As you mentioned I do blob the varnish on to cover the mini, I then wipe my brush on kitchen towel (as mentioned) then remove all the excess,I will do this until there are no heavy patches, the varnish continues to run for about 5 minutes so keep your eye on each mini as you coat the next. Flesh areas are tricky as there is very little texture for the varnish to bring out and streaks and patches are common, remove as much of the varnish as you can once it has been applied. I hope you are happy with your minis and you found my guide helpfull, I will continue to tweak the tutorial until any major problems are ironed out, Phil is also doing a great job offering his advice. Dont forget I would like to see some photos.

2
Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Simon. Poste d Sat Apr 2, 2011 12:10 am


R e ply Q uote

Eagle Ov Death wrote: Hi Patrick spe l, I have e x actly the sam e proble m . Afte r applying Arm y Painte r quick shade (strong), Je nny look s lik e she has an accide nt with a pe rm a-tan bottle or just finishe d a bout of m ud wre stling All the othe r inve stigators howe ve r look awe som e (I'll se nd in som e pick s afte r I have applie d the m at varnish). I was wonde ring if I could pe rhaps touch up the fle sh colours afte r the quick shade varnish drie s. Anyone k now if this is possible ? Anyway thank s for the guide Sim on I re ally e njoye d painting those little suck e rs. Now for the m onste rs Pauly

You followed my guide and now they look awesome........Nice! you made my day. Happy Painting.

2
Paul C (Eagle O v De ath)

Simon. Poste d Sat Apr 2, 2011 12:24 am


R e ply Q uote

Hi Simon, Once again, thanks for the guide. These are the first minis I have painted in 20 years!! What do you think? (the pictures don't do them justice).

4
Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Sat Apr 2, 2011 9:10 am R e ply Q uote Eagle Ov Death wrote: Hi Sim on, O nce again, thank s for the guide . The se are the first m inis I have painte d in 20 ye ars!! W hat do you think ? (the picture s don't do the m justice ).

Wow! You have been away from painting almost as long as I have been painting I think you have made a great job every credit to you, nice paint style. They will really enhance your game and I understand, photos never look as good as the real thing, Monsters next I take it? Enjoy your painting Keep up the good work! Simon.

2
Mack Mille r (history_ge e k )

Poste d Sat Apr 2, 2011 11:50 am

R e ply Q uote

Nice Minis! Hope my ships turn out half as good as you all's figures!

2
Mack Mille r (history_ge e k )

Poste d Tue Apr 5, 2011 4:56 am R e ply Q uote

Hi joni, I have a small range of weathering powders which I have only used on large scale models, all the

weathering I have ever done on game minis has been achieved with paint, ink wash, dry brushing etc, sorry I am not much of an expert in this area. Regarding your ships, if I was to paint them for the game table I would use a base colour to suit the mini then bring out the detail with dry-brushing lighter tones over the top, depending on the mini add some colour washes where required, finally paint in all the small detail. Not having painted many ships myself I think I would probably try a couple of different styles to see which one looks the best, eg try as described in my tutorial, light colour wash over a gray undercoat or bold flat colour maybe, sorry I cant be more specific I would experiment a little. I painted the ships below by dry-brushing over the base colour then applying colour washes to the towers, finish by painting in the detail. I hope this helps, but as I mentioned I'm no expert. Good Luck!

[ImageID=957543 inline wrote:

3
Mack Mille r (history_ge e k )

Thanks for the advice Simon. Your ships are awesome! I am hoping to get started on my ships this week. Idthink I'm5, going base Poste Tue Apr 2011 to 5:00 am them grey then use copper detailing on the boilers and such. Will keep you updated on progress and hopefully pics!
R e ply Q uote

Nyogtha wrote: history_geek wrote: PS Have you use d any of the we athe ring pigm e nts? Just wonde ring how the y work since m y Dystopian ships are old iron side s. Thanx !

Just re ce ntly cam e across those and wonde re d about use and how the y would look . Not found anythig lik e any re vie ws or tutorials with the m up to now. Be m ost inte re ste d if you find anything yourse lf.

I would like to attempt to use a rust weathering pigment as my ships are the "old ironsides". I haven't had time to search for it yet to buy but will let you know once I get it. I'll let you know how it looks, before and after pics and how I did it. I did find a tutorial on UTube and it seems it is a powder that you put on where you want the rust "look" then you set it with rubbing alcohol (don't know it it would be called the same on your side of the pond cool. Here is the link to the video I watched: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cLTEXzfyFE ). Doesn't seem too hard and effect was really

Its titled "Hammer40k How to Paint Weathering Pigments "Rust Effect" Hope this helps some. I will let you know if I find anything else. J.

3
Mack Mille r (history_ge e k )

Poste d Tue Apr 5, 2011 5:11 am

R e ply Q uote

Nyogtha wrote: history_geek wrote: PS Have you use d any of the we athe ring pigm e nts? Just wonde ring how the y work since m y

Dystopian ships are old iron side s. Thanx !

Just re ce ntly cam e across those and wonde re d about use and how the y would look . Not found anythig lik e any re vie ws or tutorials with the m up to now. Be m ost inte re ste d if you find anything yourse lf.

Thought you would like to know I started a new thread in the mini painting guild forum on weathering pigments. I've been researching and found some good information. Check it out. Cheers!

3
C riss Mye rs (Buk ira)

Poste d Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:20 am R e ply Q uote

Nice work simon, they look great in real life


Poste d Tue Apr 26, 2011 7:59 am R e ply Q uote

3
Paul C (Eagle O v De ath)

Hi Simon, Finally got round to painting those pesky monsters. What do you think? Still unsure about the gloss varnish on the monsters but other than that I am pretty happy with them. Also bought some plano boxes to store them in too, so they are not floating around the box. All I need to do now is persuade the wife to play it with me more often. Any recommendations for other boardgames with painting potential? Do not want to see all that paint going to waste!

4
Paul C (Eagle O v De ath)

Poste d Tue May 3, 2011 2:49 pm R e ply Q uote

And here are the rest...

4
Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Tue May 3, 2011 3:37 pm R e ply Q uote

Eagle Ov Death wrote: Hi Sim on, Finally got round to painting those pe sk y m onste rs. W hat do you think ? Still unsure about the gloss varnish on the m onste rs but othe r than that I am pre tty happy with the m . Also bought som e plano box e s to store the m in too, so the y are not floating around the box .

All I ne e d to do now is pe rsuade the wife to play it with m e m ore ofte n. Any re com m e ndations for othe r boardgam e s with painting pote ntial? Do not want to se e all that paint going to waste !

Hi, very nice work, time well spent and nice colour choice. I hope you found my guide helpful,(Any comments good or bad are all greatly received here or to my Geek mail) your game must look so much better now in full colour. As for other games with painting potential, Mmmm.... well, anything with minis in it that you like to play ( Sorry) Oh!... looking at your profile you are quite new to the geek, OK... Doom: The Boardgame looks great painted

Mmm... not sure if its wife friendly though. There are so many games it really does depend on personal preferance, If you are gaming mainly with your wife how about a co-op like A Touch of Evil: The Supernatural Game

4
Paul C (Eagle O v De ath)

Poste d W e d May 4, 2011 12:27 am Simon. R e ply Q uote

Hi Simon, Yes I am new to the geek. MoM is the first BG I have played in a v. long time. I mainly play video games but have found that BGs can be a good way to spend some time with my partner. I shall give Touch a try. And perhaps Arkham Horror and Dominion next. Just a note on the Quick Shade: I found it worked really well after taking your advice i.e. removing surplus with kitchen roll and then giving it another brush. As you can see my witches barely look like they have any staining at all (or clothes for that matter). Thanks once again

3
Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d W e d May 4, 2011 8:25 am R e ply Q uote

Eagle Ov Death wrote: Hi Sim on, Ye s I am ne w to the ge e k . MoM is the first BG I have playe d in a v. long tim e . I m ainly play vide o gam e s but have found that BGs can be a good way to spe nd som e tim e with m y partne r. I shall give Touch a try. And pe rhaps Ark ham Horror and Dom inion ne x t. Just a note on the Q uick Shade : I found it work e d re ally we ll afte r tak ing your advice i.e . re m oving surplus with k itche n roll and the n giving it anothe r brush. As you can se e m y witche s bare ly look lik e the y have any

staining at all (or clothe s for that m atte r). Thank s once again

Welcome to the Geek, So many great games out there you are in for a blast! I am completely hooked on Board Gaming + my wife plays selected games to. My advice to a new gamer would be take a look at as much info as you can regarding any purchases before parting with you cash, it will save you from disappointment..... Most of the time, as you are relying on someone else's view. Downloadable rule books and videos usually tell you if a game is for you or not, its so easy just buying on impulse (talking from experience) once you get familiar with the enormity of it all you will start to weed out the gems. Most important thing of all........ have fun! Simon.

Edite d W e d May 4, 2011 11:32 pm Poste d W e d May 4, 2011 10:57 am

Ge sine Stanie nda (Kallisto)

R e ply Q uote

I would say: check out Wrath of Ashardalon (it's totally co-op). I just painted all but one of the minis and to me, this is my new passion. I will probably have to get Castle Ravenloft next. At this stage, the painting is more interesting than the actual playing, thanks to this thread and some other online-sites!

3
Paul C (Eagle O v De ath)

Poste d W e d May 4, 2011 4:45 pm R e ply Q uote

Kallisto wrote: I would say: che ck out W rath of Ashardalon (it's totally co-op). I just painte d all but one of the m inis and to m e , this is m y ne w passion. I will probably have to ge t C astle R ave nloft ne x t. At this stage , the painting is m ore inte re sting than the actual playing, thank s to this thre ad and som e othe r online -site s!

Thanks Gesine. Wrath of Ashardalon does have some great looking figures so might pick that up too. Not too sure about the tiles though. Is it just me or are they a bit on the ugly side Also got Arkham Horror yesterday and just realised that you cannot buy the investigators unpainted! I have the 8 from MoM but not the others. That is a bit of a bind!
Poste d Thu May 12, 2011 10:57 am R e ply Q uote Mack Mille r (history_ge e k )

Eagle Ov Death wrote: Hi Sim on, Ye s I am ne w to the ge e k . MoM is the first BG I have playe d in a v. long tim e . I m ainly play vide o gam e s but have found that BGs can be a good way to spe nd som e tim e with m y partne r. I shall give Touch a try. And pe rhaps Ark ham Horror and Dom inion ne x t. Just a note on the Q uick Shade : I found it work e d re ally we ll afte r tak ing your advice i.e . re m oving surplus with k itche n roll and the n giving it anothe r brush. As you can se e m y witche s bare ly look lik e the y have any staining at all (or clothe s for that m atte r). Thank s once again

Hi Welcome to the Geek! Looking for another game with major painting potential? Dust Tactics. Its all military stuff but the figures are awesome. My family owns three copies of the game and many of the expansions. We are going to start painting them this weekend. The game is awesome and you can make it as simple or as complicated as you want. The first time I played a game with my son it took all of about 20-30 minutes. Oh, another game...is Dystopian Wars...which is all ships. Also something we own and is awesome to play.

3
Paul C (Eagle O v De ath)

Hope Poste this d Sat gives Mayyou 21, 2011 some4:21 ideas...oh am and the figures are awesome!!
R e ply Q uote

Thanks Joni, I'll check them out. Just getting round to painting the Touch of Evil minis at the mo. My second daughter was born a couple of days ago so might be a bit busy for the next few weeks

3
Mack Mille r (history_ge e k )

Poste d Sun May 29, 2011 10:59 am R e ply Q uote

Eagle Ov Death wrote: Thank s Joni, I'll che ck the m out. Just ge tting round to painting the Touch of Evil m inis at the m o. My se cond daughte r was born a couple of days ago so m ight be a bit busy for the ne x t fe w we e k s

Congrats on your new daughter!! Best of luck to you!

3
(m e lfas)

Poste d Mon Jun 6, 2011 3:48 am R e ply Q uote

Hi... Love the paint job! Just thought I'd share. For those who really want to dullen the shine left after dipping, I find painting the fine details and drybrushing the highlights after applying the acrylic matt finish realy helps. Again. Great pics!

2
John Lloyd (VillainousEye )

Poste d Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:33 pm R e ply Q uote

Hi Simon, Enjoyed the tutorial very much. How much different is using the dip method, compared to say, just washing the miniature with a couple of appropriate GW washes - depending on the colours of the garments etc. If one already has a complete set of GW washes, will dipping add anything to the result?? Thanks!

2
Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Thu Se p 8, 2011 5:27 am R e ply Q uote

VillainousEye wrote: Hi Sim on, Enjoye d the tutorial ve ry m uch.

How m uch diffe re nt is using the dip m e thod, com pare d to say, just washing the m iniature with a couple of appropriate GW washe s - de pe nding on the colours of the garm e nts e tc. If one alre ady has a com ple te se t of GW washe s, will dipping add anything to the re sult?? Thank s!

Only when you dip a mini for yourself will you appreciate just how good it is. Its like magic before your eyes. Paint a couple of test minis and give it a try

2
Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Good Luck! Poste d W e d Se p 21, 2011 10:38 pm


R e ply Q uote

rhox wrote: Nyogtha wrote: No worrie s. It is e x pe nsive , but worth it I think . Also you can com bine the thre e diffe re nt shade s to ge t varying shade s from the dipping, which is nice , although a little trick e r.

I have orde re d a tin of strong shade from e Bay, I will use it on a couple of te st m inis be fore using it on m y ne x t proje ct, curre ntly I have m y Last Night O n Earth m inis all re ady for the spray prim e r so I will post som e shots whe n the y are done . Thank s again Phil

Well, I did my LNOE minis with Quickshade Dark tone,I found strong to red in colour, as nyogtha said he would never go back to regular stains, I couldn't agree more! this is now my dipping stain of choice it is so much better. I have edited my tutorial to point this out,thank-you for putting me onto this. My next project, Invasion From Outer Space The Martian Game as I have already done my Gears Of War Minis which turned out very nice.

2
gige n 77 (gige n77)

Poste d Mon De c 19, 2011 10:05 pm R e ply Q uote

Hi simon, this are basicaly the first miniatures i ever painted, thanks to you and your tutorials! now...to the monsters!!

5
(Pie rzasty)

Poste d Thu De c 22, 2011 6:51 pm R e ply Q uote

gigen77 wrote: Hi sim on, this are basicaly the first m iniature s i e ve r painte d, thank s to you and your tutorials! now...to the m onste rs!!

Edite d Thu De c 22, 2011 7:04 pm Poste d Thu De c 22, 2011 7:04 pm

gige n 77 (gige n77)

R e ply Q uote

These are ,your Thanks this first? quick They're shade technik great and does you're the most! awesome.

2
Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Fri De c 30, 2011 12:57 pm R e ply Q uote

gigen77 wrote: Hi sim on, this are basicaly the first m iniature s i e ve r painte d, thank s to you and your tutorials! now...to the m onste rs!!

Congratulations for completing your first paintings, they are beautifully shaded, great job. Your games will be so much more emersive with painted minis, you will know if you have the painting bug when you start looking for games containing minis just so you can paint them. Enjoy your painting Simon.

2
(The C runche r)

Poste d Fri De c 30, 2011 11:43 pm R e ply Q uote

Excellent guide! If you are interested in modifying minis prior to painting, check out my much rougher guide with sculpey on metal(don't try on plastic models unless u have extra copies of the mini to test with because parts could and will partially melt!)

I figured this was a great place to share other creative methods, sorry if it is off topic.

2
Jim m y C hriste nse n (Fox hole )

Poste d Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:10 am R e ply Q uote

Hi Simon!

This guide is exactly what I am looking for, but I just have a question for the glossy/vanish effect. I bought GW Ardcoat blank, but I wont have them too shiny, I want the dull effect you are having. Is it possible to just diluted with water to get the miniatures less shiny, instead of buying a anti-shine spray?

2
Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d W e d Aug 1, 2012 7:29 pm R e ply Q uote

Hello jimmy, from my experience the best way to get a nice flat even finish is with the army painter flat Matt spray. I have tried GW sprays and they tend to still sparkle. I don't think diluting with water will make the paints less shinny or did you mean thin the stain, if so you might not get the same detail shading, it is the dipping stain that creates the high gloss look, army painter stain is a little less glossy than wood stain. I have had OK results using a water based brush on Matt varnish On minis in the past.goes on like milk and dries clear. I hope I have helped, don't hesitate to contact me if you get stuck or need any help. Enjoy your painting. Simon.

2
Jim m y C hriste nse n (Fox hole )

Poste d W e d Aug 1, 2012 7:55 pm R e ply Q uote

Thanks for the tip! My local hobbyshop doesn't have alot of varnish products. So I took a chance and bought Vallejo Matt Varnish for airbrush. (I don't own an airbrush). I haven't tried it yet, because of im not finished with my painting. - But I don't know if it will look like crap to brush the matt varnish, with a normal brush. Do you have an opinion on that? - Otherwise I found an online danish store, who sells Testors DullCote, which also seems to solve the shiny effect problem.

Edite d Fri Aug 3, 2012 3:53 pm Poste d Fri Aug 3, 2012 2:21 pm

Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

R e ply Q uote Foxhole wrote: Thank s for the tip! My local hobbyshop doe sn't have alot of varnish products. So I took a chance and bought Valle jo Matt Varnish for airbrush. (I don't own an airbrush). I have n't trie d it ye t, be cause of im not finishe d with m y painting. - But I don't k now if it will look lik e crap to brush the m att varnish, with a norm al brush. Do you have an opinion on that? - O the rwise I found an online danish store , who se lls Te stors DullC ote , which also se e m s to solve the shiny e ffe ct proble m .

If you are testing a new varnish I would advise painting a couple of test figures while you do your game minis, then try the varnish out on one of those or half of one then you can see the difference it makes. I can't comment on dullcote sorry I have not used it, again test first. Good luck, don't forget to post some pictures. Simon.

2
(Pie rzasty)

Poste d Fri Aug 3, 2012 8:38 pm R e ply Q uote

Usually airbrush products of the game variety are just thinned more. Should be OK.

2
Ste ve Be rnardo (the anim aste r)

Poste d Fri Aug 3, 2012 11:34 pm R e ply Q uote

THANK YOU for this tutorial! It's answered so many lingering questions I've always had -- such as the speed required when priming and the "faded" colours you get when applying 50-50 colour to the models. I figured I should have been applying multiple layers of paint rather than flat coats! Thanks for confirming this! And wow... just such an awesome thing you've done for the creative community here! Many many thanks!

2
Dustin Gom e z (m indfad05)

Poste d Tue May 28, 2013 12:37 am R e ply Q uote

what colors are people using for there flesh tones? I hate the ones I have tried so far.

1
Toni -tron (narnil)

Poste d Sun Jul 14, 2013 1:38 am R e ply Q uote

Thanks for the guide. I just finished painting my minis. Never painted anything before. Some of them turned out pretty nice. I'm not too keen on the Shoggoths and Chthonians though. Painting large surfaces was much more difficult than doing small details.

3
Sim on Dunk le y (rhox )

Poste d Sat Se p 28, 2013 2:47 pm R e ply Q uote

narnil wrote: Thank s for the guide . I just finishe d painting m y m inis. Ne ve r painte d anything be fore . Som e of the m turne d out pre tty nice . I'm not too k e e n on the Shoggoths and C hthonians though. Painting large surface s was m uch m ore difficult than doing sm all de tails.

I think you have made a super job painting your minis, they look great! When it comes to large surfaces drybrushing is your friend, just layer progressively lighter shades of your chosen colour, maybe give it a try next time. Enjoy your game and Thankyou for posting.

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