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Surviving A Winters Night in the Northern Forest: How To Build An Arctic Lean-To
Written by Paul Kirtley . Topics: Arctic Survival, Bushcraft
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Ready to spend the night in the depths of the boreal forest in winter. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
A lean-to is a classic shelter of the northern forests. It is an open-fronted shelter that depends upon re to keep the occupant warm. This type of shelter has the advantage of a relatively simple construction method requiring few tools. As long as you have access to plenty of rewood, a lean-to will keep you protected from the cold in otherwise lethal temperatures. There are, however, a few tricks to getting it right rst time.
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An axe is the most important tool you can carry in the northern forest. In high latitudes the growing season is short. Consequently, trees grow slowly and their wood is dense and knotty. In winter, you always need to process a lot of rewood, even if you are staying in a heated tent or cabin with a stove. An open-fronted shelter such as a lean-to is very inecient in its use of fuel. In one night you will burn as much rewood as you would in several days in a heated tent. An axe is the number one tool in this environment.
An axe is the most important tool you can carry in the northern forest. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
Make sure you are familiar with using your axe in mild conditions before heading out into the north woods in winter. Even then, still be extra careful. Using an axe while wearing gloves or mittens, on skis or snowshoes, with snow rather than solid ground under your feet, increases the risk of mishap.
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Build up proficiency with an axe before you head to more difficult climates. While you are there aim for efficiency. Photo: Stuart Wittke.
You should also make sure you are ecient with your axe. To get the most out of your axe in winter, your skills with it should be well honed. Precision and the ease of long use only come with practice. Specically for building this shelter you should be quick at harvesting and limbing small trees as well as cutting poles to length while holding the pole in one hand and the axe in the other. For rewood, you should be condent in safely felling, limbing and sectioning trees of over 12 inches (30cm) in diameter. These are the basic jobs of winter survival with an axe in the boreal forest. While an axe is the essential tool, a saw will come in handy. Some jobs are quicker and more ecient with a saw. For example, when sectioning a tree trunk, a saw is less wasteful of materials and energy. It is also safer. A saw also makes felling trees safer too, as the back cut can be more nely controlled.
You will need to safely fell dead-standing trees for firewood. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
A snow shovel is a much under-rated tool of the north. A good one makes moving lots of snow relatively painless. A key feature is a long handle or, at least a handle that will extend to a good length. The aim is to be able to move powdery snow in a broad, sweeping motion from an upright standing position. To build your shelter you will need to clear an area of snow, down to the ground underneath. If you have a snow shovel, make good use of it. Otherwise you will have to improvise (more on this below).
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possible without a shovel, this is much easier with a shovel or similar implement. Snow in the northern forests typically remains powdery and can even transform to a sugar-like crystals, which are even harder to move in any great quantity without the appropriate tool.
Clear an area to house the shelter, fire and space in between. Photo: Paul Kirtley
If you dont have a shovel, improvise something to scoop snow, preferably with a sweeping motion from a standing position. Provided you have an axe, you can rough out a long-handled snow scoop of a similar size to a canoe paddle but with a curved blade. The action of using this is similar to a canoe paddle too. Alternatively, you could use a snowshoe, improving its ability to hold snow with a covering of any spare cloth or plastic you might have with you. Second, you need to locate and cut a sturdy cross beam for your shelter. This, like all the other structural parts of the shelter, should be made from green (i.e. live) wood. This cross beam is then lashed between the two trees you have chosen. In the northern forest in winter, it is not possible to improvise natural cordage. While there are abundant spruce, pine and birch roots below the ground, the earth is frozen solid. Carrying some cordage with you is also a basic survival strategy for this environment. If you do not have any cordage, or do not have enough to spare, you can prop the crossbeam in place with sturdy Y-poles from the front of the shelter. In either case, the cross-beam should be placed between the leaning back wall of the shelter and the upright trees. This way the weight of the bulk of the shelter is forcing the cross-beam onto the uprights rather than trying to separate it from them. The height the cross-beam should be lashed onto the trees is determined by the height and width of your bed and the desired angle of the back wall of the shelter. Generally an angle of around 60 degrees is good. If there is any chance of wet precipitation (e.g. sleet or rain) then 60 degrees is the absolute minimum angle. The bed should be wide enough for you to lay on it and high enough o the ground that you can sit on it at normal chair sitting height. Once you have lashed on the cross-beam, add green poles at the desired angle. Collect the trees and bring them back to the area of the shelter to remove the branches. These will provide the thatching and bedding material for your shelter. If any of the poles are too long, you can trim them down, using the excess to form the basis of the platform for your raised bed.
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With the cross beam in place, the poles for the back wall can be added. Note the beginnings of the raised bed and thatching materials being stacked nearby. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
Ideally, you will lay the poles right next to each other, with no gap in between them. This makes for an awful lot of work, as well as requiring the felling of up to one hundred live trees. Spacing the poles at around a hand span apart is a suitable compromise, particularly if you are not in a survival situation. This will prevent the thatching material from falling in between the poles but will not be quite as wind-proof as having the poles side-by-side.
Work in progress daylight still coming through the thatching. Note the spacing between the poles in the back wall. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
To sleep out in this environment, you should be insulated from the ground, to minimise conductive heat loss. Air is a good insulator. If the underside of the sleeping platform is kept open to the re, this will also allow radiant heat and the circulation of warm air under your bed.
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The basic bed platform should be made of long poles that have a little give in them. In this environment spruce is best. They should all be of similar diameters. Any tapering can be compensated for by laying the poles head-to-toe. This is then covered with spruce boughs. While a thick mattress of boughs makes for greater comfort in its own right, it also insulates you from the warmth of the re coming up from under the bed. So, you have to strike a balance between both these components of your comfort.
The underside of the raised bed is open to the fire; dont apply too much insulating bedding on top just enough for comfort. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
When thatching the back of the shelter, start at the bottom of the rear wall and thatch upwards, working right across the wall. You are aiming for the material to be 30-40cm thick at a minimum. Place the branches on with their stems facing upwards as much as possible, interweaving each new row with the last. Remember to also thatch the head and the foot of your raised bed to minimise draughts. An optional
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addition for extra wind-proong is to add snow to the back of the shelter, over the top of the thatching material.
You need large diameter logs to burn all night. Keep them long for a parallel long-log fire. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
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The knack with this type of re is to get the logs burning steadily and giving out heat like a grill. You start by placing two logs on the ground and lighting a re in the usual manner in between and making sure it spreads along the full length of the logs. Lots of small sticks and some intermediate sized fuel ensure this. Now, if you put a large log straight on top of this lot, it practically smothers the re. This means lots of smoke and not much heat when what we really want is the opposite, little smoke and good heat.
Place two logs on the ground and plenty of kindling in between. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
Allow the fire to establish between the two base logs. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
The trick is to hammer some substantial pieces of green wood (about 2 inches/4cm in diameter) diagonally between the two logs to form an X-shape at each end. The large log is then cradled by these X-stays and held separate from the logs below. You obtain a constant ame which gives o a good heat
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from the gap in between. The stays take a good while to burn through as they are green.
Fire with top log in place warming shelter. Note the X-stays of green wood to maintain separation. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
This looks good but the fire is too far away from the shelter to be effective. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
The re needs to be close enough to be able to warm the rear wall of the shelter, which will help keep you warm indirectly, adding to the direct radiant warmth of the re hitting your body and the warmth coming up under your open-fronted raised bed. This all translates to the re needing to be a short step away. You are left with just enough room to get your feet down in between the shelter and the re while
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The correct separation of shelter and fire for adequate warmth while sleeping. Photo: Paul Kirtley.
Only a short step away from the fire! Photo: Paul Kirtley.
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There is a common myth that you will not wake up if you get too cold. I can assure you that as soon as the re dies down a little and you start to feel the chill of the night, you will be awake. As the re dies down, it also tends to produce more smoke which, if it comes your way, will also likely wake you up. Once you are awake, the job is then to adjust the re so that it regains the warmth required for you to fall back asleep. Make sure you have plenty of wood ready before dark. Youll burn through more than you expect in a night and unless the logs you are using are huge, youll probably have to replace at least the top log during the night.
So, you will manage to sleep. It will just be in shorter stretches than you are used to. You will likely feel tired the next morning but youll be warm and alive. You will also have the inner glow that comes from surviving a night out in the open in the arctic forest with nothing other than your bushcraft skills and knowledge.
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Paul Kirtley
Paul Kirtley is a professional bushcraft instructor. He is passionate about nature and wilderness travel. In addition to writing this blog Paul owns and runs Frontier Bushcraft, a wilderness bushcraft school, oering bushcraft courses and wilderness expeditions.
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