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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

HA R A!" HA R " S#R"ERS WRBSS302B

$esson % & Theory & Practical $esson 2 & Practical Hot Wa' $esson 3 & Practical Strip Wa'

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STUDY GUIDE
%2 "o dra3ing o, the cross section o, the hair2 22 What are the three main sections o, the hair4 E'plain each2 32 What are the ,ive main chemicals that hair is composed o,4 -2 5ive the proper names ,or hair ,o6nd in the ,ollo3ing parts o, the 7ody8 a9 Head 79 Eye7ro3s c9 Eyelash d9!ostrils 12 What are the three general classi,ications o, hair4 E'plain each2 +2 What are the three stages o, hair gro3th4 E'plain each2 02 What are the three ca6ses o, hair gro3th4 "escri7e each2 /2 What is Hirs6tism4 .2 What is hypertrichosis4 %02 What are the three recognised methods o, depilation4 5ive an e'ample ,or each2 %%2 What is the e,,ect and 7ene,it o, 7leaching4 %22 5ive ,6ll proced6re ,or 3a'ing8 a9 strip and 79 hot 3a'2 %32 What are %0 contra & indications ,or 3a'ing4 %-2 What a,ter & care advise 3o6ld yo6 give yo6r client4 %12 What are the cleaning proced6res a,ter the 3a' treatment ,or the ,ollo3ing8 a9 co6ch 79 spat6las c9 3a' pot & stand d9 ,loor and 3all2 %+2 What is the hygienic proced6re ,or 3a'ing4 %02 What are the correct times re:6ired ,or 3a'ing the ,ollo3ing areas8 a9 legs * 6pper; lo3er hal, and ,6ll 79 7i<ini c9 6nderarm d9 t6mmy e9 arm ,9 lip g9 chin h9 eye7ro3 %/2 What types o, prod6cts can yo6 sell a,ter 3a'ing4 %.2 What type o, treatment can yo6 advise to regenerate 76siness4

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments TRICHOLOGY Hair and Hair Disorders

Hair Sha,t Epidermis Active germinating layer o, the epidermis nner root sheath Se7aceo6s 5land #6ter root sheath Arector Pili ?6scle $ayer o, special dermal cells Hair 7egins to harden here

"ermal Papilla

Hair B6l7; active part o, ,ollicle

The Hair Sha,t

"ermal Papilla

Hair #n o6r heads alone; 3e have appro'imately %00;000 hairs; that is i, yo6 are a 7r6nette= 7londes have slightly more and redheads slightly less2 Whatever the case; this is a lot o, hair2 The condition o, o6r hair 3ill :6ic<ly re,lect o6r general health and diet2 An ade:6ate 3ell& 7alanced diet 3ill prod6ce healthy hair2 E2g2 A diet high in protein; vegeta7les and ,resh ,r6it2 The visi7le hair on o6r 7odies; incl6ding the scalp are dead str6ct6res; composed o, <eratinised >horny9 cells that are compactly cemented together 7e,ore they leave the hair ,ollicle cavity2 They gro3 o6t o, t67es o, epidermal cells; 3hich are s6n< into the dermis; and receive their 7lood s6pply ,rom capillary loops sit6ated in the papillae o, the dermal layer2 The ,ollo3ing pages loo< at the str6ct6re and anatomy o, the hair in the more detail= di,,erent types o, hair ,o6nd on o6r 7odies and the methods o, removal c6rrently practised 7y the s<illed 7ea6ty therapist on a client 3ith 6n3anted or pro7lem hair2

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When ,ollicles cease to prod6ce a hair; they shrivel 6p and the lo3er part or 76l7 largely degenerates; its role ,6l,illed ,or the time 7eing2 These resting :6iescent ,ollicles are simpler and m6ch shorter str6ct6res than active ones2 At the 7ase o, a resting ,ollicle the hair; i, still present ,orms a cl67 that is anchored 7y thin <eratino6s strands to the epithelial sac2 The cl67 is s6rro6nded 7y a hyaline caps6le; or vestige o, the inner root sheath= this contin6es 6p to @6st 7elo3 the d6ct o, the se7aceo6s gland 3here it 7ecomes 3rin<led and ,ragmented2 Aro6nd the caps6le; the remaining o6ter root sheath ,orms a thic<ened epithelial sac= at the 7ase o, 3hich is a peg o, cells= no longer encaps6lated 7y a 76l72 )lose inspection on epilating a hair in the resting stage 3ill sho3 the shallo3 position o, the hair 3hich sits almost on the s<ins s6r,ace and has a 7lo7 li<e dot or ,6ll stop on its root end2 This ro6nded cl67 is the pedicle o, cells and the lo3er part o, the epithelial sac called hair germ; ,orms 3hen the ne't generation o, hair develop2

Diagram of the Skin and Hair Growth

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments Three Main Sections of Hair

Hair is made 6p o, three sections8

%2

Cuticle The c6ticle is the o6termost layer o, the hair and it is made 6p o, ,ine scales that overlap each other and provide protection and elasticity to the hair2 The c6ticle s6rro6nds the pigmented cells o, the corte'2 Corte This layer is made 6p o, elongated cells and melanin gran6les2 These cells give hair its pigment2 The corte' encloses the central cells o, the med6lla2 Medulla The inner core o, the hair has loosely connected <eratinised cells; 3hich are inter& spaced 3ith air2 This creates the vario6s tones >sheens9 7y the in,l6ence o, re,lecting light2 The med6lla is a7sent in lan6go or primary hair2

22

32

!rofessional Ter"inolog# Aeratinisation & process 3here cells 7ecome dehydrated; ,lat and elongated2 )ells lose their 3ater content2 )ell has no n6cle6s2 )ells 6s6ally shed ,rom the s<in2

?elanin & is a colorant; an organic pigment ,ormed ,rom amino acids 3hich contri76tes to s<in colo6rings2 Che"ical !ro$erties of Hair Hair contains ,ive chemicals8 )ar7on Hydrogen #'ygen !itrogen S6lph6r and Phosphor6s

The e'act composition varies 3ith each individ6al and their hair type2 #ther in,l6ences are age; race; se' and colo6r i2e2 hair containing the largest amo6nt o, S6lph6r is nat6ral red hair2 This also ma<es it the strongest type o, hair2

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Cross section of a hair greatly magnified.

This is a healthy young hair shaft magnified 1000 times. The cuticle, the outer visible layer, consists of shingles or imbrications that encircle the hair shaft.

Here is the cuticle after one year, it has broken into smaller fragments and the imbrications are eeling away from the hair shaft.

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Hair Gro%th Hair gro3s at an angle to the s6r,ace o, the s<in; so that it ,ollo3s the nat6ral conto6rs o, the 7ody a7ove the s6r,ace2 So,t 7ody hair is termed vell6s hair and coarser; more visi7le hairs are terminal hairs2 The hair emerges thro6gh to the s6r,ace o, the s<in thro6gh the hair ,ollicle2 The ,ollicle is ,ormed partly 7y the dermis and partly 7y the epidermis2 The o6ter sheath is composed o, 7asal layer cells 3hich ,ollo3 its descent into the dermis; and the inner sheath is ,ormed 7y the horny epidermal cells2 The ,ollicle and the hair are as one; and in removal i2e2 pl6c<ing; the inner sheath is visi7le2 Attached to the 6nderside o, the sloping hair ,ollicle is a small non&striped m6scle; the Arector Pili ?6scle; 3hich 6nder stim6l6s o, ,ear; cold etcBma<es the hair stand on end2 Hair gro3th is contin6al in healthy ad6lts; the normal gro3th cycle 7eing loss and replacement 3hich <eeps the amo6nt o, hair present constant2

Hair Structure and Gro%th C#cle of Hair Anagen8 This is the period o, active gro3th2 The hair is attached to the papilla2 Thro6gho6t this stage; the ,ollicle contin6es to gro3 do3n3ards into the dermis; and it is not 6ntil the hair is a7o6t %cm a7ove the s6r,ace that the ,ollicle ceases to e'pand do3n3ards2 There,ore a hair in early Anagen is the most desira7le to treat2 The shallo3er the hair ,ollicle; the easier it is to treat e,,ectively2 At some stage the hair 7ecomes detached ,rom the papilla and enters stage t3o2 )atagen8 >"ormant stage9 There is a degeneration o, the hair ,ollicle str6ct6re2 The hair 7ecomes detached and is either shed or 7ecomes dormant2 ts cl67 root is lodged in the 6pper part o, the hair ,ollicle2

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Telogen8 >Period o, rest9 The length o, time varies 3ith each hair type2 n some cases it does not even e'ist and the hair goes into the active Anagen stage to ,orm a ne3 hair2 As the ne3 hair gro3s; the old hair is p6shed o6t2

Gro%th C#cle of Hair

Stages of Hair Gro%th

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Classification of Hair Hair ,alls into 3 general classi,ications8 %2 Lanugo8 Cine primary hairs 3hich are ,ormed on the ,oet6s in the 3om72 Ba7ies lose this hair a7o6t a month a,ter 7irth2 22 &ellus8 So,t; do3ny hair 3hich covers most areas o, the 7ody e'cept ,or the8 & palms o, the hands & soles o, the ,eet & genitals > p67ic area 9 They are 6s6ally pale in colo6r and gro3 ,rom a shallo3 ,ollicle2 They have a slo3 gro3th rate2 32 Ter"inal8 This type o, hair is coarse and deep seated 3ith 3ell developed roots and 76l7s2 They are ,o6nd on the scalp; eye7ro3s; eyelashes; 6nderarms; p67ic areas and on maleDs ,aces and 7odies2 ?ost hairs 7egin as $an6go then vell6s hair and remains so; ,or the rest o, its li,e2 #ccasionally; hair 7ecomes terminal as on the ,emale ,ace; nec< torso and lim7s2

Causes of Hair Gro%th The ca6ses o, hair gro3th may 7e generalised 7y three main categories8 %2 )ongenital pattern2 22 Topical pattern2 32 Systemic pattern2 '( Congenital !attern( The congenital pattern is inherited ,rom oneEs parents; each 3ith his or her o3n genetic str6ct6re2 This determines 3hether the hair 3ill 7e dar< or ,air; ,ine or coarse; straight or c6rly2 The pattern 3ill also vary ,rom one ethnic gro6p to another2 Anglo&Sa'on and !ordic gro6ps ,rom !orthern E6rope generally have less hair than ?editerranean and Semitic people2 #riental and ?ongolian gro6ps have the least hair o, all2 Fs6ally 3hite&s<inned people 3ill have more hair than dar< s<inned people2 The hereditary ,actor and the general ma<e 6p o, the genes can prod6ce varying amo6nt o, hair2 #ne ,amily can have almost total a7sence o, 7ody hair; 3hile another can prod6ce an a76ndance2 , a mem7er o, the ,ormer ,amily has even an average amo6nt o, 7ody hair or ,acial hair; to her it 3o6ld seem e'cessive2 )( To$ical !attern n the topical pattern; hair gro3th can o,ten 7e increased 7y an irritation2 This 3ill res6lt in an increase o, 7lood s6pply to the area2 Any hair ,ollicle s6pplied 7y this increased 7lood ,lo3; 3ill also receive e'tra no6rishment; ca6sing hair to gro3 deeper and coarser2

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rritation may 7e ca6sed; ,or e'ample; 7y the cha,,ing o, a plaster coat on a lim7 or the constant scratching or r677ing o, an area2 t can 7e prod6ced 7y G&rays; too m6ch 6ltra violet light and even s6n76rn2 Sportsmen and o6tdoor 3or<ers may develop e'tra hair; as do many people 3ho contin6ally irritate their s<in 3ith too m6ch s6n7athing; prod6cing second degree 76rning2 #ther ca6ses o, topical hair gro3th are8

T3eeHing & ca6ses irritation2 When hair is p6lled o6t o, the gro3ing area; the ,ollicle may 7e damaged2 Each time this happens; the ,ollicle 3ill gro3 a little st6rdier; perhaps a little deeper and the 7lood s6pply to this area 3ill increase2 What may have 7een a light hair gro3th 3ill 7ecome dar<; coarse and terminal2 Wa'ing & has the same e,,ect as t3eeHing; 76t on a mass scale2 All the hairs are removed; giving a 7ald appearance; 76t their re&gro3th 3ill almost certainly 7e stronger and more distorted2 , 3a' is 6sed on the ,ace; there are al3ays the haHards o, p6lling and stretching the s<in2 Shaving & removes hair only ,rom a7ove the s6r,ace o, the s<in2 t does not get rid o, hair permanently2 A,ter shaving; the hair ,eels st677ly and 6ncom,orta7le2 When ne3 6nto6ched hair gro3s thro6gh the s<in; it is tapered2 Shaved hair has a 7l6nt end2 t is 7etter to c6t individ6al terminal hairs on the ,ace2

*( S#ste"ic !attern( 5land6lar dist6r7ances may in,l6ence hair gro3th2 Systemic pattern o, hair gro3th are those prod6ced 7y dist6r7ances to the endocrine system2 Hormones are e'creted 7y all the endocrine glands and control the gro3th and development o, all parts o, the 7ody2 , one endocrine gland is not ,6nctioning properly; it can a,,ect the 7alance o, all the other glands2 Endocrine glands are partic6larly active in p67erty; pregnancy and menopa6se2 The $ituitar# gland is the most important endocrine gland2 t is divided into three lo7es2 The anterior lo7e is regarded as theE master gland E2 t is responsi7le ,or the gro3th; development and ,6nctions o, all the organs o, the 7ody2 #ne o, its ,6nctions is to secrete three very important hormones8 %2 5onadotrophins 3hich reg6lates the ,6nctions and gro3th o, the gonads > se' hormones 9 22 Thyrotrophin 3hich reg6lates the activity o, the thyroid gland 32 Adrenocorticotrophic Hormone >A2)2T2H 9 3hich reg6lates the ,6nction o, the adrenal corte'2 The adrenal glands are divided into t3o parts8
%2 22

Medulla 3hich prod6ces adrenalin >epinephrine9 Corte 3hich prod6ces hormones called steroids2

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There are over thirty di,,erent types o, steroids divided into t3o gro6ps8
%2 22

Corticosteroids 3hich incl6de cortisone and hydrocortisone 3hich are re:6ired 7y the 7ody so that it can ad@6st itsel, to stress conditions2 Se Hor"ones 3hich incl6de 7oth male hormones >androgens9 and ,emale hormones >oestrogen and progesterone92

The androgens >male hormones9 are the ones responsi7le ,or stim6lating the gro3th o, hair on the ,ace and 7ody2 A high amo6nt in a man 3ill prod6ce a good gro3th o, hair 3hich is :6ite accepta7le2 A high amo6nt in a 3oman 3ill also prod6ce a good gro3th o, hair; 76t this is not 6s6ally desira7le2 )ertain dr6gs may inter,ere 3ith hair gro3th2 )ortisone and some contraceptive pills may increase gro3th 3hile other steroids may red6ce it2 At the time o, p67erty the anterior pit6itary lo7es prod6ce an e'tra secretion o, the gonadotrophic hormones2 These act on the ovaries in a 3oman and the testes in a man2 The adrenal gland 3ill also 7e prod6cing e'tra steroids incl6ding androgens; oestrogen and progesterone2 Wor<ing together; these 3ill prod6ce secondary characteristics= in a 3oman; hair 3ill appear in the 6nderarms and the p67ic area; her 7reasts 3ill start to enlarge and her 7ody 3ill develop nat6ral ,at pads to give her a so,t ro6nded appearance2 , she is prod6cing too m6ch androgen; hair may appear on other areas o, her 7ody; ,or e'ample; her ,ace; chest or a7domen2 n pregnancy; the endocrine glands 3ill also 7e especially active and o,ten; there 3ill 7e additional hair gro3th2 A,ter the 7irth; these 3ill 6s6ally disappear 6nless they 7ecome terminal hairs2 At menopa6se; the endocrine glands change again2 The ovaries; 3hich act on the anterior pit6itary lo7e; cease to ,6nction2 As the ovarian hormones have an e,,ect on this lo7e; it means that the pit6itary hormones 3ill no3 7e ,ree to stim6late the adrenal corte'2 This 3ill increase the androgens so that additional ,acial and 7ody hairs may develop2 We <no3 that the endocrine glands 7alance one another; that the anterior lo7e o, the pit6itary gland secretes A2)2T2H; 3hich reg6lates the ,6nction o, the adrenal corte'2 n times o, stress; the adrenal med6lla 3ill prod6ce e'tra adrenalin2 , there is constant stress over a long period; the over&prod6ction o, adrenalin 3ill stim6late the adrenal corte' to prod6ce e'tra hormones; incl6ding androgens; so that there may 7e increase in hair gro3th2

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+a"es for Hair in Different Areas of the ,od# Head Eye $ashes Eye7ro3s Ears !ostrils Cace Armpits P67ic Region )apilli )ilia S6per )ilia Tragi (er7rissae Bar7a Hirci P67es

Gro%th !attern of Hair Hair gro3s %21cm per month or + inches per year2 $i,e span o, hair is 2 to - years2 Hair sheds every 10 to /0 days2

E cessi-e Hair Gro%th As 3e have seen; it is normal ,or 3omen to have hair; 76t 3hat is normal to some 3omen 3o6ld 7e considered s6per,l6o6s 7y others2 A large n6m7er o, 3omen 3ill; at some stage in their lives; s6,,er ,rom 3hat they consider to 7e an e'cess o, hair2 n most cases; it 3ill 7e s6per,l6o6s hair that is normal additional gro3th ,ollo3ing p67erty; pregnancy or menopa6se2 The t%o "ain disorders of e cessi-e hair gro%th are. %2 Hirs6tism & a condition 3here there is e'cessive hair gro3th o, hair on parts o, the 7ody not normally covered 7y hair in the ,emale2 This gro3th is terminal hair 6s6ally seen in the male ad6lt se'6al pattern2 2 22 Hypertrichosis & 5ro3th o, terminal hair considered e'cessive ,or that se'; age or race2 This type o, hair gro3th is stronger and more proli,ic and a,,ects 7oth se'es2 Another hair disorder is Alopecia 3hich is the loss o, hair that is primarily ca6sed ,rom stress or tra6ma2 This disorder is not 6s6ally ca6sed 7y hormonal im7alances2 This disorder is not 6s6ally 7ro6ght to the salon ,or treatment= ho3ever; some cosmetic companies have prod6cts 3hich are ,orm6lated to treat this pro7lem2 As Bea6ty Therapists; 3e cannot promise to treat this condition s6ccess,6lly; 76t 3e can o,,er treatments or recommend treatments that 3ill help them rela' 7eca6se o, their stress levels2

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Hirsutis" Any type o, hair disorder; 3hether on the 7ody or the scalp; 3ill a,,ect o6r loo<s and may 7e re,erred to as a disease2 Hirs6tism is a condition 3here the development o, 7ody hair is aggravated2 n men; this is not a disease; 76t merely an e'aggeration o, normal hair gro3th; 3hereas in 3omen; it is :6ite a7normal; and can pose as a real pro7lem2 S6per,l6o6s hair >Hypertrichosis9 or e'cessive hair >Hirs6tism9 is an em7arrassment to 3omen as it s6ggests a certain degree o, masc6linity2 Hypertrichosis is e'cl6sively a ,emale disorder; 3here there is an a7normal development o, terminal hairs on parts o, the 7ody 3here yo6 3o6ld normally ,ind only ,ine ,air hair2 This may either 7e localised; in the ,orm o, a hairy mole or 3ide spread2 This may develop in 3omen ,ollo3ing treatment 3ith the male se' hormone prescri7ed ,or gynaecological reasons or a nat6ral over prod6ction o, the male se' hormones2 Also <no3n as Imale pattern hirs6tesD 3here secondary male se' characteristics may develop2 Women past menopa6se may also develop these characteristics; ?echanical depilation methods may also enco6rage a hypertrichosis condition >t3eeHing & 3a'ing92 Wa' depilatory methods on the legs is :6ite s6ccess,6l and i, repeated o,ten eno6gh; may lead to disappearance o, the hairs; 6n,ort6nately; this same method 6sed on the ,ace has the opposite e,,ect2 The most e,,ective method o, eliminating 6n3anted terminal hair is to destroy them 7y means o, electrolysis2 E$ilation There are ,o6r recognised methods o, depilation8 %2 ?echanical & shaving; a7rasive mitt; t3eeHing and 3a'ing2 22 )hemical & depilatory creams and pastes2 32 Electrical & Electrolysis and "iathermy -2 $aser Hair Removal * This is the 6se i, a laser light to destroy the hair gro3th on vario6s areas o, the 7ody and it is an e'pensive method 3ith several treatments re:6ired to completely remove the hair2

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METHODS O/ HAIR REMO&AL '( Mechanical $rocedures( a( Sha-ing8 most commonly 6sed method o, hair removal2 !dvantages Disadvantage s o This method is cheap; :6ic<; easy and painless2 o o o o )a6ses s<in irritations & cha,,ing Hair 7ecomes thic<er and coarser2 S<in that is c6t d6ring proced6re may ca6se scarring2 Beca6se hair is c6t ,rom the s6r,ace o, the s<in and the papilla is not removed; there is ,ast re&gro3th2

0( A0rasi-e Mitt8 Fse o, a7rasive cloth to remove hair2 !dvantages o E',oliates o "oes not ca6se in,ections o Hair gro3th is slo3er than that o, shaving and so,ter2 o o o o Slo3 process and time cons6ming ?ay ca6se irritations and sensitivity #nly 6sed on leg area )an ca6se thic<ening o, the horny layer; i2e2 Aeratinisation

Disadvantage s

c( T%ee1ing8 The oldest method o, hair removal2 t sometimes removes the papilla2 !dvantages o o o o o o o o o Re&gro3th time is slo3er )heap and :6ic< Removes single hairs there,ore more controlled Slight discom,ort Fncom,orta7le over a large area ?ay distort ,ollicle and ca6se regro3th to 7e coarse Slo3 method Hair may 7rea< at s<in level #nly e,,ective over small areas

Disadvantage s

d( 2a ing8 The 3a' grasps the hair; o,ten 3ith the papilla2 There are several types o, 3a'es; oils and resins2 !dvantages o o o o Relatively :6ic< method o, hair removal Slo3 re&gro3th; ma<es hair so,ter on 7ody 76t not on ,ace Hair gro3th 7ecomes more sparse Hair may event6ally stop gro3ing; i2e2 progressively permanent
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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments o Terminal hair may 7ecome ,iner; 76t vell6s hair 7ecomes coarse

Disadvantage s

o o o o

Fncom,orta7le )an 7e e'pensive Have to 3ait ,or re&gro3th to 7e %cm )an distort hair ,ollicle and ca6se ingro3n hairs

)( Che"ical !rocedures a( De$ilator# Crea"s8 )reams or lotion ,orm6lated that allo3s a chemical reaction to ta<e place 3hich dissolves the hair protein2 !dvantages o J6ic< and easy o Per,ormed in privacy o, o3n homes o o o o Highly irritating to s<in Has a strong odo6r )annot 7e 6sed on ,ace ?any ma<e hair coarse and thic<er

Disadvantage s

0( ,leaching Crea"s8 )amo6,lage ,or hair2 t contains magnesi6m car7onate >3hite henna9 and ammonia2 A thic< paste is ,ormed 7y mi'ing these po3ders 3ith 20K vol6me hydrogen pero'ide ,or 7leaching2 This is the hydrogen pero'ide 6sed ,or hair2 Bleaching ma<es hair poro6s; then yo6 can 7leach or dye it; vell6s hair is easier to 7leach than terminal hair2 !dvantages o o o o o o Easy and painless $arge areas can 7e covered )an 7e messy Hair hardens and 7ecomes 7rittle ?ay irritate the s<in ?ight 7e 6nsa,e ,or sensitive s<in

Disadvantage s

c( Seru"s8 These are s67stances that slo3 do3n the hair re&gro3th2 They m6st 7e applied 1 to 0 days a,ter hair has 7een removed2 !dvantages Disadvantage s o (ery e,,ective on ,acial terminal hair

o E'pensive o ?6st ,irst 6se another ,orm o, hair removal o Slo3 proced6re

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

*( Electrical $rocedures a( Electrol#sis8 This destroys the hair papilla via a chemical reaction >sodi6m hydro'ide92 t destroys the dermal papilla i2e2 destroys 7lood and n6trient s6pply to the ,ollicle2 0( Ther"ol#sis8 This destroys the papilla via coag6lation i2e2 thro6gh heat2 c( Electrical T%ee1ers8 ntrod6ction o, thermal radio ,re:6ency2 >not as e,,ective as !oEs % and 29 o Fses saline sol6tion as a cond6ctor on hair2 o Proced6res are progressively permanent2 o Regro3th in / to %+ 3ee<s2 !dvantages Disadvantage s o o o o o o Progressively permanent removal o, individ6al hair )an 7e pain,6l E'pensive >charged 7y the min6te9 ?ay ca6se scarring Slo3 process ?ay ca6se temporary 3hite rings aro6nd ,ollicles

,leaching !at6ral hair colo6r depends largely on the type and amo6nt o, pigment contained in the corte' o, the hair2 The pigments incl6de melanin; 3hich may 7e 7lac< or 7ro3n; and pheomelanin; 3hich is reddish yello32 ?i't6res o, these pigments give di,,erent hair colo6rs2 Removal o, the nat6ral colo6r or 7leaching is a chemical reaction 3hich changes the pigments to colo6rless compo6nds inside the hair sha,t2 This process ta<es place 7y the addition o, o'ygen to the pigment and the chemical reaction is there,ore called o'idation2 Blac< and 7ro3n pigments are more easily o'idised than red and yello3 pigments; so that the o'idation ta<es place in three stages8 %2 #'idation o, 7lac< and 7ro3n pigments leaving red and yello32 22 #'idation o, red pigment leaving yello32 32 #'idation o, yello3 pigment2 The o'ygen re:6ired ,or 7leaching is 6s6ally o7tained ,rom the decomposition o, hydrogen pero'ide; ammoni6m hydro'ide 7eing added as a catalyst to speed the release o, o'ygen2 A catalyst is a s67stance 3hich speeds 6p a reaction 76t remains 6nchanged itsel, at the end o, the reaction2 Hydrogen pero'ide; 7eca6se it s6pplies o'ygen ,or the reaction; is <no3n as an o'idising agent2 Hydrogen pero'ide LL o'ygen M 3ater
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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

!e3ly ,ormed o'ygen or nascent >ne3 &7orn9 o'ygen is a po3er,6l 7leaching agent 6nli<e ordinary atmospheric o'ygen2 The o'idation process o, 7leaching is represented 7y the ,ollo3ing e:6ation8 ?elanin >colo6red9 M !ascent #'ygen >,rom hydrogen pero'ide9 NO #'y&melanin >colo6rless9

Bleaching is an e,,ective 3ay o, disg6ising 6n3anted hairs2 With age e'cess hair tends to 7ecome slightly dar<er and thic<er and the 6se o, 7leach; especially on a large area; is 6se,6l2 Bleaching a,,ects the corte' o, the hair; as the melanin >7lac< or 7ro3n9 pigment and the pheomelanin >yello3 or red pigment9 are o'idised to 7ecome colo6rless2 The Co"$osition of ,leaches Bleaching preparations contain t3o parts 3hich are mi'ed immediately 7e,ore 6se2 %2 O idising agent8 6s6ally hydrogen pero'ide or magnesi6m pero'ide; to provide nascent o'ygen ,or 7leaching2 22 Al3aline su0stance8 6s6ally ammoni6m hydro'ide sol6tion or solid ammoni6m car7onate; to release the o'ygen ,rom hydrogen pero'ide 7y acting as a catalyst2 T#$es of ,leaches Si"$le li4uid 0each This is 6sed as a 7rightening shampoo to revive 7londe hair 3hich has dar<ened 3ith age or to give highlights to light 7ro3n hair= it contains 10 parts o, 20 vol6me hydrogen pero'ide and % part o, 02//0 ammonia2 Shampoo is added to <eep the 7leach in position on the hair2 Crea"5 e"ulsion and oil 0leaches These are designed to 7e thic<er than simple li:6id 7leach and consist o, al<aline em6lsions o, vario6s consistencies2 There are mi'ed 3ith 20 vol6me hydrogen pero'ide 7e,ore 6se2 Boosters may 7e added to increase the 7leaching po3er2 These contain potassi6m pers6lphate or ammoni6m pers6lphate to provide e'tra o'ygen2 )onditioners s6ch as centrimide are 6s6ally incorporated to lessen the damage to the hair2 #il 7leaches may contain s6lphated oils and leave the hair a golden 7londe2 They do not 7leach as completely as the cream or em6lsion types2 !o%der or $aste 0leaches These contain magnesi6m car7onate >sometimes called 3hite henna; 3hich is a completely di,,erent s67stance ,rom red henna 6sed in hair colo6ring9 and ammoni6m car7onate2 A thic< paste is ,ormed 7y mi'ing these po3ders 3ith 20 vol6me hydrogen pero'ide ,or general 7leaching; or 3ith -0 vol6me hydrogen pero'ide ,or 7leached strea<s and tips2 This type o, 7leach is the most po3er,6l 6sed in hairdressing; and may leave the hair ro6gh and poro6s2

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

Contra 6 indications8 %2 S<in in,ections 22 )6ts ; 7listers or 76rns 32 Sensitive s<ins2 -2 "ry ; ,la<y s<ins 12 ?oles or 3arts2

2a ing t is a good idea to 6se a 76,,er daily; to <eep dead s<in cells ,rom clogging the ,ollicles; ca6sing the hair to gro3 6nder the s<in >ingro3n hairs92 Some people are more s6scepti7le than others2 A,ter treatment 3a'ing oil also aids in the prevention o, ingro3n hairs and eliminates s<in dryness2 Be3are o, s6n e'pos6re straight a,ter 3a'ing as yo6r s<in is sensitised and so accordingly do not 7oo< a 3a'ing treatment i, yo6 are s6n76rnt2 The ,irst 3a' is al3ays the 3orst; 6ntil the hair settles into the 3a'ing process2 "o not 7e tempted to shave or 6se depilatory treatments 7et3een treatments; i, possi7le2 Co6r to si' 3ee<s is the appro'imate time span 7et3een treatments2 ?ost ladies tend to Egro3E over the 3inter months; ma<ing the ,irst 3a' o, the season a pain,6l ard6o6s tas<2 A co6ple o, 3a'es thro6gh 3inter 3ill <eep things 6nder control2 Be,ore yo6r ne't appointment do not 6se oils or moist6rising creams as this lessens the e,,ectiveness o, the 3a'2 Peer press6re o,ten in,l6ences yo6ng girls to shave 6nnecessarily2 By commencing 3a'ing early; 76t the time the girl is in her 20Es; hair gro3th 3ill 7e 3ell 6nder control2 Ad-antages %2 $arge areas can 7e removed :6ic<ly in one session providing constant res6lts2 22 Relatively lo3 cost2 32 #nly slight discom,ort -2 Regro3th is slo3 12 Regro3th has very ,ine ends and ,eels so,t and nat6ral in te't6re2

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

Disad-antages %2 Repeated at reg6lar intervals 22 ngro3n hair can res6lt Note: "f you have been shaving for a long time, shaving romotes different hair growth cycles #more than one hair growing out of each follicle and coarser$, whereas when wa%ing only one hair will grow out of each follicle. &ake sure you tell your client it may take '() wa%es before the hair grows back in its normal cycle.

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

HOT 2A7 Traditional hot 3a' consists o, 7ees 3a' and resins; pl6s soothing ingredients2 These minimise the reaction to the heat o, the 3a' and prevent irritation a,ter hair removal2 The 3a' is solid 3hen cold and has a high melting point 3ith a 3or<ing temperat6re o, a7o6t +/ )2 t is availa7le in many di,,erent colo6rs2 The colo6rs vary d6e to the soothing ingredients 6sed in the 3a'2 Cor e'ample; aH6lene 3a' 3ill come in a 7l6e colo6r; an apricot 3a' 3ill come in an orange colo6r and an aloe vera 3a' 3ill come in a green colo6r2 2ARM 2A7 8 STRI! 2A7 Warm 3a' is disposa7le 3hich limits cross in,ection ris<s and is an attractive alternative to hot 3a' methods; 7eing very easy to prepare and maintain2 Warm 3a' is a com7ination o, 3a'; oils and resins and has a lo3 melting point o, -3 ); so the 3a' reaches its 3or<ing consistency very :6ic<ly2 Warm 3a' is 6sed sparingly and in con@6nction 3ith thin ,a7ric strips2 Both the 3a' and the 3a' strips are thro3n a3ay a,ter 6se2 n s6mmer 6se talc to remove any e'cess moist6re ,rom the s<in other3ise the s<in is perspiring; yo6 may remove layers o, s<in or sometimes the 3a' 3ill not adhere to the hair and the 3a'ing 3ill not 7e s6ccess,6l2 HOT 2A7 Essential oils P 7ees3a' P resins P soothing ingredients >lavender & chamomile9 (aries in colo6r and consistency & 6s6ally pale yello3 Corms hard mass Heated at +/ )

Ad-antages E,,icient on strong hair gro3th "o not need to 6se strips

Disad-antages )an 7e over heated and 7ecome 7rittle B6rning , spilt cannot 7e removed easily & avoid thin application as cannot 7e removed easily

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

I+GRO2+ HAIR TREATME+T A+D A/TER 2A7 CARE %2 !o s6n & the ,ollic6lar ori,ices are 3ide open and a little tender and there,ore 3ill 76rn and may even 7lister2 22 !o solari6ms ,or at least 2- ho6rs a,ter2 32 !o s3imming in chlorinated pools & irritation2 -2 !o hot sho3ers & heat treatments may irritate the s<in2 12 !o e'tra creams P oils P deodorant P s6n cream & 7eca6se the s<in is tender; the client may 7e sensitive to creams; oils or deodorants2 +2 ?a<e 6p & ,o6ndation 3ill get in and ca6se irritation; pimples2 2a ing Ti$s Al3ays chec< 3ith the client in regard to things s6ch as dry s<in and ingro3n hairs; e'plain the pro7lems that may or have occ6rred so they donEt thin< yo6 have done the 3rong thing2 Tea&tree moist6riser is very cooling and has a soothing e,,ect= it is a good selling point as most clients love the ,eel o, it2 $oo,ah & donEt 7e too harsh as yo6 may 7rea< o,, the hairs2 , the hair is very long >e2g2 7i<ini; 6nder arms; chest; and sometimes legs9 it is a good idea to trim the hairs ,irst as the 3a' may 7ecome <notted in the hair2

Cr#stalli1ing of %a This crystalliHing e,,ect happens mainly in 3inter ,or the ,ollo3ing reasons8 '( COLD8,O+Y AREAS This EcrystalliHingE o,ten happens to 7ony areas o, the 7ody s6ch as toes; <nees; chins and an<les2 Ho3ever; in 3inter; this may happen to other areas2 This is d6e to the s<in 7eing e'tremely cold or the s<in is very dry & <eep in mind that 0 o6t o, %0 clients have dry s<in ESPE) A$$Q in 3inter2 There is no proced6re to overcome this pro7lem completely; altho6gh yo6 m6st advise yo6r clients to moist6rise daily >e'cept ,or the day o, their 3a'ing treatment9 and e',oliate the dry s<in daily 7y 6sing a 7ody 7r6sh2 Heating in the salon is also important to ens6re 3armth and com,ort to yo6r clients2 , yo6 ,ind yo6rsel, in tro67le 3ith a di,,ic6lt area; s6ch as the toes; and the 3a' is st6c<; try peeling the strip 7ac< ,irmly; not :6ic<ly; li<e peeling an orange2

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

)( TEM!ERATURE Temperat6re o, the 3a' in the heating pot is very important as crystalliHing 3ill happen i, the temperat6re is 6nder /0 )2 The temperat6re o, 3a' drops appro'imately %0 ) ,rom the time it is ta<en o6t o, the heating pot and applied to the s<in; 3here the temperat6re drops even ,6rther; especially i, the s<in is cold2 As yo6 can no3 imagine; i, the 3a' in yo6r pot is 6nder /0 ); 3hat temperat6re is it 7y the time yo6 are ready to remove it ,rom the clientEs s<in4 This is the reason 3hy it is important to invest in a thermometer to chec< the temperat6re o, yo6r pot once a month to ens6re it is aro6nd /0 )2 *( ,O+DI+G TECH+I9UE A third reason 3hy crystalliHing may occ6r is 7eca6se the removal strip is not al3ays 7onded to the 3a' ,irmly eno6gh2 Too o,ten see operators r67 their hands 6p and do3n the strip lightly several times; p6ll 7ac< the strip and the 3a' is still st6c< to the s<in2 The strip m6st 7e 7onded ,irmly to the 3a' 7y c6pping the hand and r6nning it along the strip 6p3ards and 7ac< ,irmly; and only once; i, this is done very ,irmly the 3a' and hair is removed in one s3i,t action2

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments ,I:I+I 2A7

APP$ )AT #!

RE?#(A$

U+DERARM 2A7
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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

APP$ )AT #!

RE?#(A$

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

/I+AL SA+ITARY CARE %2 "ispose o, 3a' strips and disposa7le items2 22 "isin,ect 7ed and spat6las 6sed ,or 3a'ing2 32 Remove any soiled items ,rom 7ed and 3a'ing area2

CO+TRA I+DICATIO+S )6ts or a7rasions (aricosities B6rns incl6ding s6n76rns Allergies to 3a' Bacterial in,ections Br6ising or recent scar tiss6e ?oles or 3arts Any in,lammation

HOMECARE AD&ICE Avoid s6n ,or 2- ho6rs2 !o ma<e 6p; deodorant or per,6me ,or t3enty ,o6r ho6rs2 Avoid synthetic stoc<ings ,or t3enty ,o6r ho6rs2

REGE+ERATIO+ O/ ,USI+ESS Alternative Treatments Electrolysis Bleaching #ther Treatments Hair Retardant Ser6m or $otion S6ntan $otion Body Scr67s ?itts or $oo,ahs T3eeHers 5lycolic Acid Prod6cts ,or ingro3n hair scars Hand and Body $otion

Prod6cts

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

SA/ETY !ROCEDURES A+D HYGIE+E !RACTICES The operator is dealing 3ith clientEs s<in and m6st at all times o7serve the r6les o, sterilisation and hygiene to prevent the spread o, disease2 Sa,ety preca6tions m6st 7e ,ollo3ed to prevent in@6ries2 Hands and e:6ipment m6st 7e care,6lly sanitised; the @o7 area is to 7e 6sed sho6ld 7e sanitised as 3ell2 !ever remove hair ,rom areas 3here s<in er6ptions or in,lammation e'ists2 #7serve health implications o, recycled 3a'2 Prevent 76rns 7y care,6lly testing the temperat6re o, the 3a' and a patch test o, chemicals prior to 6se2 Protect areas o, s<in 3hich are not 7eing treated2 Proper protection o, ,loors; avoid accidents ca6sed 7y spilt 3a'2

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

STRI! 8 COLD 2A7 !ROCEDURE Preparation o, Bea6ty Therapist !eat and tidy appearance 3ith apron and gloves on Wash hands 7e,ore starting

!re$aration of Model 5ive yo6r model a go3n and sho3 her to the change room2

LIST O/ IM!LEME+TS5 MATERIALS A+D SU!!LIES RE9UIRED( Bed Plastic ,or R677ish "isin,ectant Wedge T3eeHers Wa' Pots Tiss6es A,ter Wa' $otion )ompress Wa' Spat6las Talc 5loves Trolley 5o3n

!ROCEDURE %2 Assess the area chec<ing ,or any contra indications2 22 "isin,ect and apply talc2 >talc is 6sed to a7sor7 any moist6re le,t on the s<in that 3o6ld prevent the 3a' ,rom adhering to the hair9 32 Test temperat6re o, the 3a' on yo6rsel, >inside o, lo3er arm 9 -2 Apply a thin application o, 3a' moving in the direction o, hair gro3th2 12 Apply a strip over the area 3ith ,irm press6re allo3ing a little area to 6se to p6ll the strip o,,2 +2 Remove the strip in the opposite direction to hair gro3th and 3or<ing as close to the s<in as possi7le2 02 "isin,ect and apply antipoil or soothing lotion; pre,era7ly one 3ith hair retardant ser6m in it2 /2 High ,re:6ency may 7e 6sed to soothe and ,or its germicidal e,,ect /I+AL SA+ITARY CARE "ispose o, 3a' strips and disposa7le items2 "isin,ect 7ed and spat6las 6sed ,or 3a'ing2 Remove any soiled items ,rom 7ed and 3a'ing area2

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments

HOT 2A7 !ROCEDURE Preparation o, Bea6ty Therapist !eat and tidy appearance 3ith apron and gloves on Wash hands 7e,ore starting

!re$aration of Model 5ive yo6r model a go3n and sho3 her to the change room

LIST O/ IM!LEME+TS MATERIALS A+D SU!!LIES RE9UIRED( Bed Plastic ,or R677ish "isin,ectant Wedge T3eeHers Tong6e "epressors Wa' Pots Tiss6es A,ter Wa' $otion )ompress Wa' Paddle pop stic<s Spat6las Talc 5loves Trolley 5o3n Pre 3a' oil

!rocedures %2 Assess the area chec<ing ,or any contra indications2 22 "isin,ect and apply talc or oil2 >talc is 6sed to a7sor7 any moist6re le,t on the s<in that 3o6ld prevent the 3a' ,rom adhering to the hair9 32 Test temperat6re o, the 3a' on yo6rsel, >inside o, 3rist9 -2 Apply 3a' on the area moving in the direction o, hair gro3th and then against the gro3th 3ith a tong6e depressor; leaving a lip at the end to p6ll the 3a' o,,2 12 Anead the 3a' in the area and 3hile the 3a' is still plia7le; ,lic< the lip to get a good grip o, the 3a' and p6ll :6ic<ly o,, the s<in2 +2 As soon as all the 3a' is o,,; place yo6r hand over the area >this helps to ease the pain or discom,ort ,elt 3hen the 3a' has 7een p6lled o,,2 02 "isin,ect and apply antipoil or soothing lotion; pre,era7ly one 3ith hair retardant ser6m in it2 /2 High ,re:6ency may 7e 6sed to soothe and ,or its germicidal e,,ect2

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The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments HAL/ LEG 2A7

Wa'ing ,ront o, lo3er leg

Wa'ing 7ac< o, lo3er leg

)#RRE)T

!)#RRE)T

CO+TRA I+DICATIO+S
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WRBBS302B

The Australasian College Provide Temporary Epilation & Bleaching Treatments Bacterial n,ections Br6ising or recent scar tiss6e ?oles or 3arts Any in,lammation

)6ts or a7rasions (aricosities B6rns incl6ding s6n76rns Allergies to 3a'

HOMECARE AD&ICE Avoid s6n ,or 2- ho6rs2 !o ma<e 6p; deodorant or per,6me ,or t3enty ,o6r ho6rs2 Avoid synthetic stoc<ings ,or t3enty ,o6r ho6rs2

REGE+ERATIO+ O/ ,USI+ESS Alternati-e Treat"ents !roducts Electrolysis Bleaching #ther Treatments Hair Retardant Ser6m or $otion S6ntan $otion Body Scr67s ?itts or $oo,ahs T3eeHers 5lycolic Acid Prod6cts ,or ingro3n hair scars Hand and Body $otion

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