Smocked blouse

This style has: o Smocking on sleeve and hem edge o Rolled hems o Gathered collar

Fit information
o o o o Scooped neckline Smocked hipline Sleeve smocked above the elbow Finished length of 68.5 cm can be adjusted as wished

Fabric recommendations
o o o o Silk Crpe de Chine Cotton batiste Fine cotton fabrics

Style variant
From tunic to smocked blouse

Select model Open My Label Software and open the desired model in the model drawer. Select style In the style drawer, under the heading Blouses, select the Tunic. Alter style properties as follows: o Increase hip by 10 cm o Increase waist by 5 cm to yield a harmonious line at the side seam. o Reduce sleeve length by 15 cm o Increase wrist measurement by 10 cm Stitch variant via stitch placement. Detailed instructions for this can be found in the Appendix. Neckline Mark the new neckline as per the illustration, on the front and back sections. The neckline curve on the front runs approximately from the centre of the shoulder up to about 2cm above the slit. The neckline curve on the back begins at the centre back about 2.5 cm below the neckbase line, and ends in the centre of the shoulder. Here, its helpful if front and back sections are placed opposite each other on the work table at the neckline edges. The excess shoulder length on the back is moved towards the neckline, so that the shoulder edges match up at the armhole.

Work table

Print preview

Smock marking At the height of the slit marking, on both the front and back section, draw in a slightly curved marking line for the first row of smocking. The width of the smocked border (here, 6 rows each one centimetre apart) is based on the number of stitch lines, and can be altered as wished.

Front

Back

Sleeve

Print out pattern pieces Position, save and print out pattern pieces. For this blouse, only the sleeves and front and back sections are needed. Cut out pattern pieces and make alterations by hand Before cutting out, check the fit of the reshaped front and back sections. If necessary, redefine height and width of marking lines. Cut out sleeve, front and back. Cut pattern pieces in half, then add seam allowances on the redefined necklines and cut out.

Fabric Requirement
Fabric Key

Lining, right Fabric, right Fabric, wrong side side side Symbols and Markings Key CF CB B9 Centre Front Centre Back Sheet numbering

Lining, wrong side

Interfacing

Reference points help in combining the individual sheets

Grain

Marking points Pleating in Button Marking Marking of dart ends on back marking direction of points on (1cm before the dart sections arrow front sections point in each case) The illustration shows one way the pattern pieces can be laid out on a folded length of fabric. Since the pattern pieces are created according to your own measurements and preferences, they may differ in size and shape from the ones shown and may require a different layout from the one shown. Fabric 140cm wide, to fabric fold.

Materials and miscellaneous

o o o

Elastic thread Edge tape, if needed Depending on fabric quality, water-soluble transparent embroidery stabiliser, embroidery film, or tissue paper.

Cutting out
o o o o

1 x front to fabric fold 1 x back to fabric fold 2 x sleeve 1 x collar strip for the neckline width 7.0 cm length 1.5 x neckline circumference

Preparation
Arrange paper pattern pieces on the fabric according to the pattern-layout illustration. Cut out, then transfer all markings onto the fabric. The neckline and armhole can be reinforced with iron-on edge tape to prevent fine fabrics from losing their shape.

Sewing Instructions
Smocking Transfer the marking line for the smocking to the fabric on the front and back sections as well as the sleeves with a chalk line or darning thread. Thread elastic thread through the stitch-plate hole of the sewing machine.

Now couch the elastic thread along the marking line with the universal stitch, making sure that the elastic thread pays out evenly and is not pierced by the needle. Add a further 5 rows of smocking spaced 1 cm apart. Only 5 rows are sewn on the sleeve. Secure, bar-tack and knot off all elastic threads in the seam allowance at one seam end in each case. Pull elastic threads to the desired length and secure the second seam end in each case. Clip elastic ends to about 1 cm. Other ways of dealing with the elastic thread are mentioned in Tips and Tricks. Shoulder seams With right sides facing, place front shoulders together with back shoulders and sew. Neaten seams and press to the back.

Gathered collar Place collar strips together with right sides facing; sew and neaten. Neaten one long end of the collar either with the rolled hem of the overlocker, or with the vari-overlock stitch of your sewing machine. Gather the neatened collar strip (Bernina presser foot no. 16). The finer the fabric, the more attractive the gathering will be. The density of the gather is regulated via the stitch length and varies according to fabric thickness. We recommend that you sew a sample. Divide neckline and gathered strips into quarters and mark. Pin collar into neckline right side to wrong side, as per the markings. Distribute any excess collar width evenly. Trim seam allowance to one centimetre and neaten. Edgestitch neckline and gathered collar on and turn. Sleeves and side seams Insert sleeves with right sides facing and neaten seams. Close side seams and neaten. Neaten cuff and edge of blouse with a rolled hem. Youll find further detailed information in your My Label program under Help> Sewing techniques. This option offers detailed instructions on how to sew belt loops, collars, pockets, linings (and much more) properly. In addition, the basics of sewing techniques are dealt with for newcomers.