The Eye of Quebec

By Winfield Sterling

August 27, 2009

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A giant fireball streaked across the Canadian sky and crashed
into the Quebec countryside with a tremendous explosive force.
Today – about 214 million years later – the crater caused by this
3-mile wide asteroid is so distinctive that it can be recognized
by astronauts in space. Native of Quebec sometimes refer to it
as “the eye of Quebec.” It forms a nearly perfect circle of water
about 60 miles wide and holds the largest fresh water island in
the world. The impact of this asteroid splashed out rocks of the
boreal shield which caused the formation of mountains for many
miles around the edge of the crater. The only road that goes to
Western Labrador is located along this crater. It is very rugged
Manicougan Crater from space travel uphill in second gear then downhill in second gear for
over 60 miles. Of course when traveling such roads it always
rains -- right? A strong norther is blowing and the late-October
temperature falls to F 39. In the semi-darkness of morning and rain, photos we take are blurred
and hilltop views of the lake are murky. But, in spite of all the negative stuff, it’s a remote and
beautiful place.

After several hours of dodging 18-wheel trucks

driven by race car drivers, we arrived at the
southern end of the lake. The sun broke through the
clouds and for the first time we got a good view of
the blue waters that fills the crater. Somebody
named it Manicouagan – maybe because it is in the
Manicouagan area of Quebec. The Manicouagan
river – which runs through the crater – is dammed
off to create the large Manicouagan Reservoir within
the crater. Local folks must tire of pronouncing this
long name so they have abbreviated it to “Manic.”
As the river travels south before it empties into the
St Laurence Seaway, there are 4 reservoirs named Speeding Truck at Manic 1
Manic 1, Manic 2, Manic 3 and Manic 4. Each of
these reservoirs is backed up by a dam where hydroelectric power is generated.

This road to Labrador is called the Freedom Highway by locals in Labrador because when it
opened in 1992, it finally gave the Labradorians the freedom to drive out and south to warmer
climes with something other than a snowmobile. The road starts at the handsome, prosperous
town of Baie-Comeau, Quebec on the St Lawrence Seaway and ends (631 miles later) at Happy
Valley/Goose Bay in Labrador. We did not measure it exactly, but there must be over 450 miles
of gravel-surface. The quality of this surface is generally very good and is frequently graded.

Gravel to Pavement on Freedom Road

But, during rains, the 18 wheel trucks quickly pound potholes and areas where the road is being
repaired can be very rough. Maybe
around 50% of this road is smooth
enough for travel at 40 to 50 MPH. The
roughest parts will rattle your teeth at 10
MPH.

I had seen this road on maps during

previous trips to Canada and thought
that it might be fun to explore this part of
the world.. But all the advice I could get
was that the road did not yet qualify for
travel by senior Texans in a little
motorhome. But, while traveling
through Newfoundland, I quizzed the
locals about the road and it became clear that this road has been improved to the point that a
motorhome could make the trip – maybe without falling apart on the road. Having traveled into
the far northern Canada on previous trips, we suffered from no delusions about the scenery along
the road. It would be made up primarily of small, black spruce, glacier-graded terrain, muskeg,
blackflies, mosquitoes, caribou, moose and very few people. Somebody told us that the total
population of this huge area of Labrador is about 30,000 people. Many of these are Innu and
Innuit “first people” – as they like to call themselves.

When I first read about this road maybe 10 years ago, a 4-wheel drive vehicle was recommended
– especially in winter. But now, all kinds of autos can be seen on the road. Nobody, and I mean
nobody, travels this road a slowly as we did. I don’t remember passing a single vehicle. But
everybody passed us. So I busy dodging potholes on both sides of the road. I wobble back and
fourth across the lanes. Suddenly, a huge truck – that I failed to see in the rear view mirror --
zoomed by and I’m glad I didn’t zig or zag into his lane as he was passing.

When telling about this adventure to a friend, we were asked “what in the world motivated you
to explore such a remote road?”

“Well, a little insanity helps” I replied. “But mostly we did it because it’s there.”