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Prepare the wall for the ceramic tile. Begin preparing the wall by removing any outlet covers and switch plates. Roughen the surface of the wall by sanding it with coarse-grit sandpaper; this will help to improve adhesion when you install the tile. Use a damp rag to clear away the dust left from sanding.

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Determine the pattern of the tiles. Look at the wall and imagine how the tiles will look. You may want full tiles in the places that are most visible. Partial tiles are less noticeable if they are hidden behind a door, refrigerator, vanity or curtain.

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Use a level to mark a line around the perimeter of the room. Measure from this line to the ceiling and the floor and from the line to the tub, vanity or other obstructions to determine if the top or bottom tiles will be too thin to cut properly. Adjust the line up or down as necessary. Never assume the tub or vanity (or the ceiling) is perfectly level. The last thing you want is a full tile on the left side and a gap you have to fill with a sliver of a tile of the right. Use a length of 1 x 2 (check for a straight edge) to create a layout stick. Lay the tiles on a floor and mark the layout stick with a pencil at the joints between tiles. Use the layout stick to see how the tiles fit on the wall.

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Use a chalk line to draw a vertical line in the center of the wall. Again, adjust the position of this line if any tile at the edges will be too thin to cut and apply. Remember that the corner between walls isn't perfectly vertical, so measure, measure, measure. You can always erase the lines and start again. Use the layout stick to see how the tiles fit vertically on the wall. Once again, look at the layout and see if you need to make any

adjustments.This is the time to adjust the layout: Chiseling tiles off of a partially tiled wall to correct a faulty layout is time consuming and wasteful.

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Apply tile mastic or thinset mortar to the wall. Ceramic tiles can be adhered to a wall using either of 2 products: tile mastic or thinset mortar. The application process is the same for both products. Use a V-notched trowel (sometimes sold as a "tiling trowel") to spread some of the mortar onto the wall, covering an area just big enough to lay in about 8 tiles.

Hold the notched trowel at a shallow angle against the wall, so that the notches on one of its long sides dig grooves into the mortar. Use long, sweeping motions to apply the mortar.

It is best to start applying the mortar along an edge of your wall (such as the area where a tile backsplash meets the countertop). Installing your first few tiles along this straight edge will ensure that your overall tile pattern is not crooked.

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Install the ceramic tiles. To install your first tile, align one of its edges with the edge of the wall. Making sure that it is straight, push it firmly into the thinset mortar to seat it. Installing each successive tile is easier if you use tile spacers - small X-shaped plastic pieces that fit between corners of tiles and ensure an even spacing of all joints.

Keep installing tiles by lining them up and pressing them firmly into the mortar. Once you have reached the edges of the area where you applied the mortar, repeat the process by applying another equal-sized area of mortar and applying about 8 more tiles. This process keeps the mortar from curing too quickly.

Install each tile in this manner until you reach the other edges of the wall. Most likely, you will need to cut the final tiles smaller to get them to fit against the other edges.

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Cut any tiles that need to be trimmed to fit your pattern. The final row of tiles in either direction will likely need to be cut to size. Begin by holding the full tile up to the area where it needs to be installed, and marking a pencil line where it will need to be cut. The most economical way to cut straight lines in tiles is using a snap tile cutter. Run the scoring wheel firmly over the pencil line on the tile and then snap it cleanly along the score mark. The cut tiles can then be installed as usual.

Many home improvement stores run tool rental programs through which you can rent a snap tile cutter by the day. For bigger jobs, consider using a wet tile saw. If you anticipate multiple tiling projects, you may want to purchase a tile saw of your own.

If you need to make cuts in any shape other than a straight line, you will need to use a wet tile saw that can notch cuts partially through a tile. This is helpful for making rectangular cutouts to fit tile around an electrical outlet.

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Grout the joints between the tiles. After allowing the mortar to cure for about 24 hours, you are ready to fill in the joints with grout. Use unsanded grout for joints narrower than 1/8 inch (3 mm), and sanded grout for joints wider than this. Mix the grout in a clean plastic bucket according to the package directions.

Use a rubber grout float to scoop a small amount of grout out of the bucket. Run the float across the surface of the tile, pressing firmly to work it fully into each joint. Running the float diagonally with respect to the joints provides the best resul

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Clean the ceramic tiles after grouting. When each joint has been filled with grout, you can clean the excess grout from the surface of the tiles. Do this by rubbing the tiles gently with a sponge and water, rinsing often. Working diagonally to the joints will keep you from lifting any grout out from between the tiles. After about half an hour, the grout will be cured and a hazy film will develop over the tiles. Buff this film away using a clean, dry cloth.