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Leather Briefcase
by Phiske on January 1, 2014 Table of Contents Leather Briefcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intro: Leather Briefcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 1: Tools and material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 2: Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 3: Dye, Mark, and cut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 4: Make the Handle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 4 6 6 7

Step 5: Attach Handle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Step 6: Add straps and holders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Step 7: Shape sides and bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Step 8: Add reinforcements and line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Step 9: Attach back, bottom and sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Step 10: Add tuck catches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Step 11: Attach front and stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Step 12: Make false bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Step 13: Make your strap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Step 14: Finish! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

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Author:Phiske

cachicamoleatherworks.com Spend most of my time in Ecuador south america with my wife and son. From Chicago burbs.

Intro: Leather Briefcase

Leather is awesome! Especially vegetable tanned leather. It's been in use for centuries, millennia, eons even. (Are millennia and an eon the same thing?) I know you all love that leather smell when you go in to Wilson's leather. It's half the reason to go in there. Unless you are a vegan. In that case you're probably not reading this. If you eat meat or are thinking of converting keep reading. I love making bags and briefcases out of leather. It's such a beautiful, renewable resource. Granted, large unrestricted tanneries can produce some bad chemicals, vegetable tanned leather, if properly processed, limits these. Another cool thing about leather is that if you really take care of it, it will last. And it looks great as it ages. But it is also biodegradable. So when you are old and you and your leather bag are all worn out, you can just toss it and it will decompose. Can't say that about synthetic leather or any other man made products that you might use to make a briefcase. You can even recycle the hardware too! Here I'll show you the construction of one of my bags. This one even has a hidden compartment in the bottom! There are a ton of little steps so follow the pics. I have most of the instructions in the captions so you can follow the construction easier.

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Step 1: Tools and material

There are the basics then there are the...not-so-basics...If you are thinking about getting into leather working, just get the basics. You might even have a lot of the tools already or you can pilfer from your dad's tool box. You also can make some of the tools out of old screwdrivers, kitchen knives and what not. If you really enjoy it then little by little you can expand your shop. A good solid workbench is essential. I have a whole room dedicated to leather working but if it's just a hobby you probably don't :) Basics (pic 1 what's not shown) Various grits of sand paper Piece of canvas or duck cloth Sponge Dish for water Cutting board Sharpening stone For a work bench put a beach towel then a piece of scrap plywood on your kitchen table to protect it from your work Not-so basics(pics 2 and 3) I have a bunch of tools not shown that are less essential plus a nice sewing machine Juki DNU-1541

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Material You'll need a nice piece of leather about 7-9 oz. (that's the thickness) 4 - 1" Dee rings (for handle and straps) 2 - trigger snaps (to attach the shoulder strap) 1" buckle 2 Tuck catches a bunch of rivets Leather dye Bee's wax Neutral leather wax ( to finish at end )

Image Notes 1. Framing square 2. Stitching awl (small) 3. Edge beveler (small) 4. Wing dividers. You can use these for marking stitching lines, holes for straps or belts, etc. 5. Snap-off style utility knife (I use this a lot) 6. two small to medium size punches 7. A small stiff awl 8. Decent pair of scissors 9. Skiving knife made from an old kitchen knife 10. Strong office clips

Image Notes 1. Rivet and snap setters 2. End strap punches (I like the english point) 3. Oblong punches (3/4" and 1") 4. stitching punches 5. Oval punches (good for buckle tongue holes on belts and straps) 6. Nippers 7. Poly hammer (never hit your punches with a metal hammer!) 8. Hammer (duh) 9. Piece of a leaf spring for setting snaps and rivets in hard to reach places 10. Rivets 11. Sharpening stones, oil, and strop 12. Round punches 13. Piece of granite counter top to do all your skiving and gouging 14. Mini vise

Image Notes 1. Cement pot 2. Strap cutter (great tool) 3. Office clips 4. 3 different types of skivers 5. V-gouge 6. Edge bevelers 7. Round knife (great tool, but keep it sharp)

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8. Various trim knifes 9. Shoe brush 10. Cobbler's hammer ( just get a nice trim hammer with smooth face) 11. Bone folder (good tool) 12. Combo channel cutter/stitch marker doo-dad 13. Beeswax 14. Little roller for adhering pieces after cemented 15. Good scissors and shears 16. I have a whole mess of straight edges not shown 17. Stitching awls and lacing fid (I made the handles on my dad's lathe!) 18. Rotary hole punch (good for lighter weight leathers)

Step 2: Design
Get out a piece of paper and start sketching. And/or google images for the type of bag you want. Once you get an idea of the shape and style of your bag you need to determine the dimensions. You can do this by gathering together what you want to put in it and shaping the items into a rough rectangle or square or octagon (who knows?). Measure your rectangle. Then that will be your inside dimensions plus a couple of inches for wiggle room. Add the thickness of your leathers and you can do a rough pattern on to paper if you're just making one bag or on to poster board or chip board if you are making more than one. Sometimes it might take a bag or two (or four) to really refine your design. I already designed my bag and have my patterns all figured out...so on to the next step.

Step 3: Dye, Mark, and cut

I like to use full grain veg tanned natural leather for the briefcases I make. Saddle leather! I use a dye that comes in a powder that you mix with water. Whatever you decide to use just strictly follow manufacturer's instructions. Mine call for wetting the leather first to allow for full absorption. Wear gloves! After it's dry I have to buff it with a cloth to take off any extra dye that stayed on the surface. Once dry mark your pattern on to your leather with a scratch awl and then cut it out. Find the best grain pattern to use for what will be the back and top flap. Use a steel straight edge along straight lines and free-hand it on curves. Make sure your blade is perpendicular to work surface and you don't start cutting on an angle. It's easy on the straight cuts but on curves you might have a tendency to lean the blade a bit. Take your time.

Image Notes 1. Wear gloves unless you don't mind your hands looking...gross

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Image Notes 1. Find the best spot for the front and back of your bag. Full grain leather will have all the scars and marks the cow had, so hide or highlight these. 2. You need two of your side piece

Image Notes 1. These are most of the outside pieces showing where they go. 2. I cut the straps out of a contrasting color

Step 4: Make the Handle

There are a ton of handle styles you can make. Some are overly complicated and difficult to make them look good. So I do a combo between a simple strap handle with a piece of leather wrapped around it. Their are a lot of small steps to this so it may seem more complicated then it is. Basically you will apply all the basic leather working techniques in making this. The pictures have the instructions...

Image Notes 1. Long strap cut the width of your Dee ring. Length can be figured out by how long you want handle.

Image Notes 1. Skive or reduce thickness on flesh side of ends

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Image Notes 1. Cut a v-gouge where handle will bend about 1/3 of the thickness of the leather 2. Edge bevel the backside where the dee will be.

Image Notes 1. Wet edge with sponge

Image Notes 1. Burnish edge with a piece of canvas rubbing it back and forth really fast till it gets hot

Image Notes 1. All shiny!

Image Notes 1. Edge bevel exposed edges on grain side

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Image Notes 1. Moisten at bend

Image Notes 1. Mark where to cement

Image Notes 1. Put contact cement on both sides to be glued and let dry for a minute or so 2. Make sure you put your dees on before gluing

Image Notes 1. Stick it together flush on both sides and tap it with a smooth hammer

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Image Notes 1. Mark where you want your rivets

Image Notes 1. When you have really tough leather you might want to use a drill to make your holes when going through 3 layers

Image Notes 1. I use a french edger to counter sink the rivets

Image Notes 1. They also make these kind of rivets out of copper

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Image Notes 1. Washer on top

Image Notes 1. Use your setter to pound the washer onto the rivet

Image Notes 1. If they are too long you can snip a bit off but leave about 3/16"

Image Notes 1. Pound down on the top of rivet with ball peen or regular hammer (these will be hidden)

Image Notes 1. Figure out how big you want the handle wrap

Image Notes 1. Moisten...get it pretty wet to form it around the handle 2. Edge bevel this and parallel side

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Image Notes 1. Crease the inside edge with the bone folder 2. Use some clips to hold it while it dries

Image Notes 1. contact cement inside on the flaps only

Image Notes 1. Make the crease nice and sharp. You can use a bit of water if it is not holding the corner

Image Notes 1. Punch holes for stitching through one side only

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Image Notes 1. Once in the stitching pony use stitching awl to finish holes and saddle stitch

Image Notes 1. Drop the whole thing in a dish of warmish water for a minute...

Image Notes 1. While it's still wet give it a gentle curve. If it wants to spring back straight, just nail it to your work bench through the dees to hold the curve

Step 5: Attach Handle

You need to attach all your outside pieces before you can start assembling the bag.

Image Notes

Image Notes

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1. Notched for the dees 2. I cut this strip the same length as the width of the top of the bag

1. Mark a line for the stitching

Image Notes 1. Burnish edges

Image Notes 1. Reinforcing strip 2. Cement the two strips together

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Image Notes 1. Lightly mark placement of strip with a scratch awl

Image Notes 1. Scuff finished surface where it will be glued to give it some "tooth"

Image Notes 1. Cement both surfaces and let dry for a minute 2. Cement both surfaces to be glued but only the center section where handle will go for now

Image Notes 1. Press with bone folder

Image Notes 1. Punch for rivets 2. Do not use metal hammer on your tools

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Image Notes 1. Set rivets

Image Notes 1. Don't glue here yet

Image Notes 1. Punch your stitching holes

Image Notes 1. Flesh side as it's being stitched

Image Notes 1. Saddle stitch

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Image Notes 1. Slide dees over strap

Image Notes 1. Cement in place

Image Notes 1. Give it a slight bulge to ride over dee

Image Notes 1. You know what to do

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Step 6: Add straps and holders

Here you can see the attachment of the straps and the holders that keep them lined up. Make sure you leave them a little long to trim off flush later.

Image Notes 1. Skive the flesh side of the strap where it will be attached inside the bag

Image Notes 1. Skived strap with rivet holes

Image Notes 1. Use a oblong punch or punch two circular holes and cut out in between

Image Notes 1. Finish the edge of the flap by wetting and burnishing 2. Back is all done until we line it

Step 7: Shape sides and bottom

Here you will have to cut grooves on the flesh side of the bottom and sides, wet and shape. Also add the dees for the shoulder strap on the sides.

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Image Notes 1. Holes for the shoulder strap dees 2. Guide lines for the gouges that will enable the leather to bend 3. Gouged lines 4. Skived edges

Image Notes 1. Bevel and finish top and bottom edges

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Image Notes 1. Moisten gouge lines and let sit for a couple of minutes

Image Notes 1. Use bone folder to crease edge

Image Notes 1. Set it aside to let it dry

Image Notes 1. Follow same steps for bottom 2. The ends fold up instead of down to be sewn to inside of the bottom of the sides

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Image Notes 1. 1" english point end punch 2. Strap that will hold the dees for the shoulder strap

Image Notes 1. You can attach directly to outside of bag but this isn't very strong

Image Notes 1. Or you can run one end inside the slot and attach with rivets. much stronger

Image Notes 1. But I usually attach them like this because I like the look

Step 8: Add reinforcements and line

At this point you can line the back, bottom and sides of your bag. I usually wait to line the front so I can get everything fitting perfectly to add the tuck catches to close the bag. It's not necessary to line the bag if you don't want to. You can also do a cloth liner but I don't like to because it usually wears out in a year or two.

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Image Notes 1. Skive the flesh side along the edges a little so the edges of your bag aren't too thick. I still like it a little thick to make the bag more substantial 2. Un-skived edge

Image Notes 1. Thin lining leather

Image Notes 1. Lay your piece to be lined on top of the leather

Image Notes 1. Rough cut around the piece leaving about 3/4"

Image Notes 1. Figure out if you want a pocket or anything on the inside of this piece before you glue it

Image Notes 1. This a large pocket I'll sew to the inside of the liner before I glue it. Glue top edge to fold over and stitch

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Image Notes 1. This will act as a stiffener and a place to put a snap on the pocket.

Image Notes 1. This is a Juki 1541 walking foot with a servo motor. I use it on flat work and the liners. Great machine

Image Notes 1. I didn't sew the ends because the next step will take care of that

Image Notes 1. I am making an accordion style pocket. I make a fold here...

Image Notes 1. Sew this edge

Image Notes 1. Make another fold half way...

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Image Notes 1. I forgot a pic. Sew this inside edge first on both sides leaving bottom loose 2. Once the sides are attached line up the bottom and sew

Image Notes 1. Cement to the bag starting in the middle of the liner and working down. Take care to not get any wrinkles in it. Easier said than done with a thin liner 2. Make sure it's well glued all the way to the edge

Image Notes 1. Cement the flap on a bit of a curve. If you don't it will wrinkle when you close

Image Notes 1. Trim excess with a knife perfectly flush

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the bag a few times

Image Notes 1. Punch your holes for stitching

Image Notes 1. Heavy weight chip board or grey board to stiffen bottom and sides. Cement in place

Image Notes 1. Cement liners onto sides and bottom taking care to wrap around your formed edges 2. Don't cover the bottom 5/8". This will hide the stitching from side to bottom

Image Notes 1. This is the liner for the front. Don't attach this yet! 2. Confession: Because I was documenting this I got carried away and attached the front liner prematurely! Ahhhh!

Step 9: Attach back, bottom and sides

Here you just have to cement your pieces together except the front. Make sure everything is flush.

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Image Notes 1. Cement your bottom piece to the back, then the sides

Image Notes 1. Use your stitching awl to finish the hole and stitch

Image Notes 1. Use a piece of paper to keep from getting cement on the back and side and cement it

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Image Notes 1. Adhere the cement with bone folder

Step 10: Add tuck catches

I forgot to take pic's as I worked here because I was frustrated. I had been too distracted by taking pics for everything that I had glued the liner on my front piece before it was ready. I just meant that I was going to have rivets showing on the inside of the liner but It still made me mad... Anyway....The tuck catches come in two main pieces: male and female. I think you can figure it out. So attache the male parts on to the flap where they need to go making sure everything is lined up. I had to trim the liner on the inside of the flap where they go because the leather was to thick. I also hid a rivet in between the slot for the catch to really secure the straps from moving at all. Once done with that cement liner in place

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Step 11: Attach front and stitch

Once your liner is properly attached you can glue the front onto the sides and stitch.

Image Notes 1. Cement front onto sides

Image Notes 1. Use a piece of broken glass and rub briskly across uneven edges (no joke!)

Image Notes 1. Complete holes with stitching awl and stitch around the bag

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Image Notes 1. All stitched...

Image Notes 1. Finish edges with beveler and burnish

Step 12: Make false bottom

The false bottom is made of sturdy grey board or chipboard.

Image Notes 1. Score this line to fold up 2. And this line... 3. and this line...

Image Notes 1. Fold up sides and hot glue

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Image Notes 1. Cut out for trap door

Image Notes 1. Test fit it in bottom of bag

Image Notes 1. Add these little walls for strength and to be wrapped in leather

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Image Notes 1. Wrap in lining leather all exposed surfaces 2. Wrap the leather over the edges

Image Notes 1. Cut a piece of grey board about 3/4" bigger so there is 3/8" of overlap all around

Image Notes 1. Wrap cover in leather making sure to add about an inch extra for a hinge

Image Notes 1. almost done...

Image Notes 1. add a little flap to grip

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Image Notes 1. cement along edges and wallah...a secret compartment for the microfiche

Step 13: Make your strap

Cut your strap as wide as the inside of your buckle. Mine was 1". You don't want anything wider than1 1/2" because they tend to slide off the shoulder. 48" for the long part and 16" for the billet. I like to use two rivets to attach each component for strength. Some bag companies get cheap and only use one.

Image Notes 1. Punch holes about an inch apart 2. The long piece is about 48" and the short piece about 16"

Image Notes 1. Nice brass roller buckle 2. Slot for tongue. 3. Rivet

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Image Notes 1. Make sure tongue moves freely

Image Notes 1. dome the rivets

Image Notes 1. This is the short side I think it's called a billet?

Image Notes 1. I like to put my logo here and on the left hand side of the front near the bottom 2. Stamp I made from a big honking nail 3. Nice trigger snap

Step 14: Finish!

Now all you have to do is put a finish on your bag. I sometimes use neat's foot oil, mink oil or you can just use a high quality neutral shoe wax. It's just like waxing your car. Put a small amount on to a clean lint free rag and rub it in. Let it dry for a few minutes and buff it off with another clean rag. Don't leave it on too long with out buffing because it gets to caked on. That's it you're done!

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