Scale Auto 10 - 2013

Indianapolis Motor Speedway , Ofcially Licensed Product. GENERAL MOTORS Trademarks used under license to Round 2, LLC.
AMT and design is a registered trademark of Round 2, LLC. GENERAL MOTORS Trademarks used
under license to Round 2, LLC. AMT and design is a registered trademark of Round 2, LLC. 2013 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. Product and packaging designed in the USA. Made in China. All rights reserved.
AMTs
Showroom Replicas
are accurately scaled curbside style 1:25 scale plastic model kits with a conceptual connection to AMTs
popular 1960s Craftsman

series. These fast, easy and fun to assemble models feature motor and suspension detail engraved into the chassis pan. The lower overall parts count, in comparison to
regular AMT
kits requiring paint and glue, allows beginners and seasoned modelers alike to assemble an attractive model in a shorter time. The superior parts t of modern tooling,
combined with logical assembly, greatly enhances the building experience and helps to ensure a successfully completed project. With features like fully detailed, multi-piece interiors
and decal sheets sporting gauges, badges, stripes and more, AMTs
Showroom Replicas
are all about fun and satisfaction in the modeling hobby.

On the shelf now at your favorite hobby or variety store! Visit round2models.com for more information, updates and current releases!
4073 Meghan Beeler Ct
South Bend, IN 46628
574.243.3000

38
October 2013
Vol. 35 No. 3
INSIDE
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38
FEATURES
16

COVER STORY
Kitbash a 1962 Corvette
Gasser by Tim Boyd
Combine three kits to make this drag racer
22

Top 10 Gasser kits of all
time by Tim Boyd
Which Gasser kits made the grade? Which
fell short? Heres a look
28

How to use Alclad candy
paint by Mark Batson
New line of candy colors lays down well
with good preparation
32 Building a large-scale Enzo
by Mark Melchiori
Tamiyas 1/12 scale Ferrari Enzo has
unique challenges
38

Weathering made easy
by Clay Kemp
Make rusted bodywork using armor-
modeling techniques
DEPARTMENTS
4 Starting Line
6 Questions & Comments
8 New Products
10 Tips & Tech
12 Bench Racer
14 Truck Stop

30 One Great Model
44 Classic Kits
46 Kit Reviews
55 Advertisers Index
57 Classifieds/Events
58 Finish Line
32
16

REVIEWS in this issue
Tommy Grove Mustang
Yamaha YZR500
53-foot trailer
1953 Corvette roadster
McLaren MP4/12C GT3
1941 Willys street rod
PLUS 2 MORE!
46
47
8 TOP
KITS! p. 46

4 Scale Auto OCTOBER 201 3
STARTINGLINE BY JIM HAUGHT

M
ark Savage is the new Associate
Publisher of Scale Auto, replacing
Terry Thompson, who left
Kalmbach Publishing for a position
with model railroad manufacturer Wm.
K. Walthers, Inc.
If the name seems familiar, it should:
Mark was the editor of American
Snowmobiler magazine for several years,
and before that he edited Kalmbachs
hobby business magazine, Model
Retailer.
Mark also writes diecast
car reviews for Model
Retailer and
ScaleAutoMag.com, with
the nickname of The
Duke of Diecast, which I
kiddingly gave him several
years ago.
Our readers are going to love Mark,
because he is a car guy through and
through. His office is filled with all sorts
of car models; his bulletin board has
some of our One Great Model
spreads on it; and his computer
wallpaper features open-wheel race cars.
Mark is a native Hoosier, and as you
might expect, grew up loving all forms
of auto racing. He still regularly attends
the Indianapolis 500, and is
knowledgeable about dirt-track racing,
sprint cars, and Formula I, as well as
NASCAR.
But wait! Theres more!
Since 1989, Mark has written Savage
on Wheels, a car review column, for the
Milwaukee Journal Sentinel. Theres even
a Web site for his work at
savageonwheels.com.
Its a sweetheart deal: Mark gets all
manner of new cars delivered to him for
test drives and review. Often the cars are
a bit outside the budget of most of us,
so its easy to tell which new ride is his
when it rolls into the parking lot!
Then theres all sorts of subterfuge
and bribery to see who can be lucky
enough to ride along to lunch or some
other essential errand.
Clearly, this is a car guys car guy, and
Im glad my new boss is someone who
not only loves cars, but who also loves
car models and understands and
appreciates the passion modelers feel
about their hobby.
Mark also understands
what our readers want, so
dont worry we wont
suddenly undergo a drastic
change in content or
format. Youll continue to
see plenty of muscle cars,
drag cars, how-to stories,
and great columns. And all have one
purpose: to help you enjoy this great
hobby more each day.
Welcome aboard, Mark!
COMING UP In the December issue
well have another in our Building the
Legends series: Parnelli Jones #15
1970 Bud Moore Mustang. Dave
Thibodeau has an excellent buildup
feature on this SCCA championship-
winning car.
We havent heard from Canadas Rod
Maskiw for a while, so its nice to have
his story about detailing and upgrading
a 1959 Chevy Impala. He shows several
ways to help improve an old kit, along
with adding functionality such as
opening doors.
Tim Boyd has an expanded review of
and building tips for the Young
American dragster kit, too.
Those are just a few of the stories
well feature next time. See you then!
Clearly, this is a car
guys car guy.
Editor Jim Haught
Art Director Carole Ross
Editorial Associate Monica Freitag
Editorial Assistant Jenny Maaske
Illustrator/Graphic Designer Jay Smith
Associate Publisher Mark Savage
Editorial Offices 262-796-8776
Fax 262-796-1383
E-mail editor@ScaleAutoMag.com
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PRODUCTION
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KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO.
President Charles R. Croft
Vice President, Editorial Kevin P. Keefe
Vice President, Advertising Scott Stollberg
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Corporate Art Director Maureen M. Schimmel
Managing Art Director Michael Soliday
Corporate Circulation Director Michael Barbee
Scale Auto (ISSN: 0195-217X) is published bimonthly by Kalmbach
Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI
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and additional offices.
Scale Auto assumes that letters, new product information, and
other unsolicited materials are contributed gratis. Feature articles
are paid for on acceptance. Photographs and other editorial material
accepted separately are paid for on publication, at which time Scale
Auto obtains publication rights. Information about submitting articles
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Scale Auto assumes no responsibility for the safe return of unso-
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Printed in U.S.A.
Jim Haught
Editor
A new car guy takes the wheel

OCTOBER 201 3 www.ScaleAutoMag.com 5
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>> Download desktop wallpaper
P17321 A3AS
AMT005 Drag Gasser Wheels & Tires
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AMT004 M&H Racemaster Dragster
Slicks
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The Kats at AMT
continue their wildly successful line of parts packs with the

M&H Racemaster Dragster Slicks and Drag Gasser Wheels and Tires that look
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Available August 2013
1/25 Scale Performance Parks Pack
Goodyear (and wing foot design) and Eagle are trademarks of The Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company, Akron, Ohio USA used under license by Round 2, LLC. Ford Motor Company Trademarks and Trade Dress
used under license to Round 2, LLC. www.FordMotorCompany.com. AMT and design is a registered trademark of Round 2, LLC. 2013 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. All rights reserved.
4073 Meghan Beeler Ct
South Bend, IN 46628
574.243.3000

QUESTIONS&COMMENTS
Two views
I just wanted to take a moment to
thank you for your magazine and for the
opportunity to see what I would have
never realized existed; a world of
extremely talented, gifted, and
meticulous craftsmen who have the
ability to bring fantasy to real life.
I have been so overwhelmed with the
content of your magazine that I just had
to write.
As a car enthusiast for many years
and many venues, I dont have to possess
the ability and knowledge that your
model builders have to appreciate what
they can do with their minds and their
hands.
As a recent retiree, I am going to
enter into this hobby and try to
maintain the mantra that I realize must
exist from the numerous folks who
donate their art work to your magazine:
relax and remember it is supposed to be
fun. That is, I will attempt to start
building if I can only tear myself away
from the fun supplied in the pages of
this magazine and the constant flow
beautiful models in your photo gallery.
I am only writing because more often
than not good deeds, products, and
efforts go unnoticed or unappreciated. It
seems that criticism and complaining are
paramount to praise and compliments.
All of you, the magazine, staff, and
model builders deserve a large applause,
if only you have brought a smile to this
readers face. Thank you.
Mark Averi
via E-mail
Wish I could be as enthusiastic about
the magazine as some of the reader
comments in the August issue, but I
cannot. I managed to get through this
one in less than ten minutes. It seems
every issue we grow further apart. Either
the magazine has outgrown me, or vice
versa. Let me explain.
Im a product of the 1960s. No, not
the 1960s that come to mind for most
people today, but the early 1960s.
Although I graduated college in the
late 1960s and managed to survive the
psychedelic and muscle car era, it was a
period that held little interest for me.
My tastes have always run toward the
Ralph Lauren ideal. Laurens clothing
line and automobile collection reflect a
classic style of timeless elegance that
transcends short-lived trends and fads to
stay fresh, generation after generation.
My passion is classic showroom
stock automobiles. Scale Auto
occasionally gives a passing nod to
these, but concentrates too heavily on
fads and trends such as custom and
muscle cars.
To your credit, Scale Auto offers
excellent modeling tips and building
concepts. It provides avenues of
discovering new products and models I
would never have found on my own.
However, having said this, the helpful
information versus content seem not to
balance each other in terms of value for
someone of my interest.
Jim Dale
via E-mail
Funny Cars
I really enjoyed the articles in the June
2013 issue on nostalgic Funny Cars. The
Funny Cars of the 1960s-1970s were
awesome, and beautiful. Please tell the
person who built the models of the
Funny Cars in the pictures for the article
they did a very excellent job of building
and painting those models.
Thank you for a very good magazine.
and letting me know that Im not the
only one who still likes the old Funny
Cars.
Joey Gravins
via E-mail
Hes out of control
I hate your magazine.
Ive got far too many started builds
cluttering up my work area, but having
read through the June 2013 issue, I am
now uncontrollably inspired to start at
least four more.
Keep it up.
Fred Maillardet
Mount Martha
Australia
QUESTIONS?
Send your questions and comments to
SCALE AUTO, Ask Scale Auto
21027 Crossroads Circle, Box 1612
Waukesha WI 53187-1612

E-mail: editor@ScaleAutoMag.com

All letters submitted will be considered for
publication unless otherwise specified. Were
sorry, but personal replies are not possible.

NEWPRODUCTS
1/24 Scale
IVECO Stralis Active Space Cube,
No. 3869, $99. Decals for two
versions. From Italeri, available from
Model Rectifier Corporation.
BMW Z4 GT3, No. 125565, $54.95.
From Fujimi, available from Dragon
Models USA Inc.
The Road Warrior - MadMax 2, No.
043660, $49.95. From Aoshima,
available from Dragon Models USA
Inc.
Miami Vice Daytona Spyder, No.
85-4917, $24.95. From Revell.

Datsun Truck 720, No. 028438,
$26.95. From Aoshima, available from
Dragon Models USA Inc.
NIssan GT-R (R35) Egoist, No.
003985, $47.95. From Aoshima,
Inc.
1/25 Scale
1955 Jukebox Ford Motor Sports,
No. 85-4036, $24.95. From Revell.
1990 Mustang LX 5.0, No. 85-4252,
$26.95. From Revell.
Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, No.
85-4053, $23.96. From Revell.
1965 Chevelle SS 396 Z-16, No.
85-4055, $23.96. From Revell.
Dodge Magnum SRT8, No. 85-4059,
$23.96. Streetburner. From Revell.
1/12 Scale
Cyclone, No. 141442, $79.95. From
Fujimi, available from Dragon Models
USA Inc.

Honda NS500 1984, No. 14125-3500,
$71. Streetburner. From Tamiya
America Inc.
Coyote V-twin custom, No. 005668,
$37.95; Dead Ringer V-twin custom,
No. 005675, $37.95; Sauber C30
Monaco GP, No. 091402, $74.95. From
Aoshima, available from Dragon
Models USA Inc.
Williams FW14B Monaco Grand Prix
1992, No. 090702, $79.95. From
Fujimi, available from Dragon Models
USA Inc.
Tyrrell P34 1977 US GP #3, No.
090962, $79.95. From Fujimi,
Inc.
Ayrton Senna Kart 1981, No. 091372,
$29.95. From Fujimi, available from
CarTech Auto Books & Manuals
39966 Grand Ave.
North Branch MN 55056
(651) 277-1200
www.cartechbooks.com
1315 John Reed Ct.
City of Industry CA 91745
(626) 968-0322
www.dragonmodelsusa.com
Model Rectifier Corporation
80 Newfield Avenue
Box 6312
Edison NJ 08837
(732) 225-2100
www.modelrectifier.com
Revell
1850 Howard Street Unit A
Elk Grove Village IL 60007
(847) 758-3200
www.revell.com
Tamiya America Inc.
36 Discovery Ste. 200
Irvine CA 92618-3765
(949) 362-2240
www.tamiyausa.com
SOURCES Books
Wildest Show
Rods of the
1960s & 1970s,
ISBN: 978-1-
61325-036-5,
$29.95. 160
pages, 300+
photos. From
CarTech Auto
Books and
Manuals.
Woodward
Avenue -
Cruising the
Legendary Strip,
ISBN: 978-1-
61325-091-4,
$29.95. 160
pages, 243 color
and black-and-
white photos.
From CarTech
Auto Books and
Manuals.
Now at ScaleAutoMag.com
NEWS FORUMS VIDEOS DOWNLOADS HOW TO & MODELS
DESKTOP WALLPAPER
Download a desktop wallpaper of
Carlos Sanchezs 1975 Plymouth
Duster Funny Car at ScaleAutoMag.
com/wallpaper, available September 3.
HOW-TO ARTICLES
Learn how to section a model car;
apply decals; improve your brush-
painting; and much more. Go to
ScaleAutoMag.com/howto.
TIPS & TECH ARCHIVE
Build better models by learning
useful tips and techniques from
other builders. Search more than
450 tips in our Tips & Tech archive
at ScaleAutoMag.com/tipsandtech.
E-MAIL NEWSLETTER
Sign up for our free monthly
newsletter, with announcements
from the magazine and the world of
car modeling.
JOIN SCALEAUTOMAG.COM
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Extras, participate in our photo
gallery and reader forums, and more.
Visit ScaleAutoMag.com/register to
get started!
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TIPS&TECH BY KEN HAMILTON
W
E HAVE a run on great tips this
time, which indicates to us that
our readers are not only building
great models, theyre also willing to
share their favorite techniques, which
makes us all better modelers. And that
gives all of us at the T&T Workshop a
warm, fuzzy feeling that our favorite
hobby is alive and well.
Thanks to all of you for your
continued contributions to Tips &
Tech. But before we focus on Tips,
heres a great question that can help all
of us:
Q: Ive seen several model vehicles that
appear to be using real, superthin glass
for the windows. It looks great. If it is
real glass, where does it come from, and
how do you make windows?
Keith Skinner
via E-mail
Ken: We dont know what vehicles
youve seen, Keith but there is thin glass
out there thats perfect for duplicating
windows. In fact, model railroaders have
been using it for years; yet another
reason to look at other scale modeling
hobbies for inspiration and materials!
Were strong proponents of using
building material thats close to what
youre trying to replicate (wood for
truck beds, metal where you can, etc.)
and glass is no different. It just looks
better than plastic or acetate, and it acts
like real glass, because it is real glass.
So what is it, and where do you get it?
These pieces of glass are actually
Microscope Slide Cover Slips used in
laboratories. They are commonly
available in squares measuring 22mm x
22mm (approximately .9 x .9 inches),
and rectangular pieces measuring 22mm
x 60 mm (.9 x 2.3 inches), which are
better suited to our needs.
In official microscopic circles,
standard thicknesses are referred to as
#1 (.14mm), #1.5 (.175mm) and #2
(.21mm). We want to use the thinnest we
can find.
The glass is available on Amazon.com
and scientific supply sites such as Fisher
Scientific and American Educational
Products, but your best bet is to go
straight to Clover House (www.
cloverhouse.com) and click on the Glass
page. There youll find all you need,
including reasonably priced glass and
equally as important, a carbide-tipped
glass scriber for cutting these paper-thin
sheets of glass (an art in itself).
Good luck, Keith, and thanks for the
great question. We think youll be
pleased with the results.
Tip: After the frustration of never
finding good-fitting latex gloves, or
tearing them when putting them on, I
started using latex finger cots when
handling or brush-painting my models.
They roll on and off easily, and you can
put them just on the fingers that you
usually use.
I found a box of almost 1,440 ($13 a
box, with a minimum order of two
boxes) at Uline.com, but you should be
able to find them other places.
Theyre so much easier to put on and
take off than a latex glove, and Im
actually able to reuse them at times.
They come in powder-free (cheaper) and
powdered, as well as ESD (ElectroStatic
Discharge) type. Mine have lasted for
Our Tip of the Month is from the
T&T Workshop Archives, and
gives a tip of the hat to all you
builders of early customs.
Fuzzy Dice hanging from the
rear view mirror are a staple
when it comes to building early
customs, but as we old guys can
remember, an equally popular
hanging decoration was Baby
Shoes.
This unique touch can be
created by using the shoes of an
HO-scale model railroad figure.
By drilling out the inside of the
shoes, separating the shoes
from the base (if the figure you
pick has a base), and adding
some thin wire, you can
duplicate a popular custom
item from the past.
TIP OF THE MONTH: Baby shoes

years. No more fingerprints on a model,
or the hassle of putting on gloves that
rarely fit correctly, although I still use
gloves for spray painting.
Craig Bucklin
via E-mail
Ken: Thats a great tip, Craig. Gloves
also make your hands perspire, which
can get uncomfortable after a while.
Finger cots are the perfect solution!
Tip From The Workshop: Heres
something we just came across that we
think is way cool.
We all know about the wonderful
variety of acrylic colors available in jars,
but only airbrush-proficient modelers
have been able to use them until now.
Liquitex, a name long familiar to
professional artists for its line of fine
artists-quality acrylic paints, has
introduced a line of waterbased colors
in spray cans!
The line consists of more than 100
colors, using highly pigmented, brilliant
colors right from the can. They come in
matte finishes only, but can be covered
with just about any available gloss coat
when they are dry.
Check out these new colors at www.
liquitex.com, then go to Paints;
Professional Colors; Spray Paint.
Odorless, waterbased paint in spray
cans just think of the possibilities!
While youre on the Liquitex site, check
out the waterbased paint markers, too.
Tip: I simply could not get a certain
decal to lay down on the curved surface
of a model I was working on. I used
MicroSol and blotted it as I normally
do, and still wound up with wrinkles.
I thought I was going to have to
remove the decals and get another set,
when my buddy Travis Jeffrey suggested
using a hair dryer to heat it up, then use
a wet paper towel to smooth it out. By
golly, it worked!
By the way, the wrinkled decal had
been in place for around 40 hours. Travis
tells me this would work better when the
decal is first applied. Dont get the decal
too hot just enough to soften it a bit.
Bill Bench/Travis Jeffrey
via Facebook
Ken: Thats a new one on us, Bill. It
sounds like heating up the decal would
be a good way to remove it altogether.
Thanks for the Tip.
Tip: Ive been building models for more
than 40 years, and recently went on a 1/8
scale buying spree. After opening my
1985 IROC Camaro, I noticed the hood
would not stay flush. The right front
corner would be raised about
1
16 inch.
Pushing down on it only raised the left
rear.
After heating with hot water, careful
bending, and ultimately cracking (and
fixing) the hood, it still didnt lay flat.
Then the it hit me to try tiny magnets.
I ended up cutting up an old phone
case, trimming the magnets small
enough to fit in the right front and left
rear fender jambs, and the same spots
under the hood. It was tedious work,
but now the hood will stay flat! After
assembly and paint, they wont be
noticeable.
Im going to use this method with the
detachable T-tops on the 1979 TA I also
bought. I hope this can help someone
else; it really saved the day for me.
Mike Barros
via E-mail
Tip: Heres a technique Ive used since I
started working with Bare-Metal foil.
When painting a model with a primer
base coat and two or more coats of
paint, small details such as moldings
and trim tend to go away.
I use Bare-Metal foil to carefully
mask the details I want to foil before the
model is painted, then before the last
coat of color is applied, I take off the
masking. This saves the detail, and after
I finally apply the foil, I dont have to
worry about seeing any primer edges if I
fall short trimming the foil.
Dean Christensen
Contoocook,New Hampshire
Ken: Thats a great way to preserve fine
detail, Dean. Thanks for sending it in.
The second half of Deans note
contained a question:
Q: I am working on an Olds 442
collection (1966 through 1972) for a
show in Massachusetts next year.
The problem I have is with the 1968
conversion kit, which has a resin hood. I
sprayed everything with automotive
primer, but when I taped off the hood,
the primer did not stick. Its fine on the
body. Ive painted a lot of cars with
O.E.M. paint, and this is the first time I
have run into this. Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.
Ken: Because youre working with resin,
it sounds like the hood has a case of
Residual Mold Release. Its important to
wash all model parts plastic or
otherwise before painting, but its
especially critical with aftermarket resin.
Mold-release agents used in the
casting process can vary between
manufacturers, and even batches, and
paint just wont stick to greasy surfaces.
To fix this problem, soak the parts
overnight in Westleys Bleche-Wite
whitewall cleaner, then scrub them with
a liquid dish detergent such as Dawn.
You might also want to scuff the pieces
with fine sandpaper, so the primer will
have something to grip.
Tip: I use Humbrol brush-on paint to
get a slightly weathered appearance
when painting seat upholstery. I paint
on a gloss coat; when thats dry, I apply
a matte (not gloss) top coat of a slightly
lighter or darker shade. When the top
coat is dry, I rub back the top coat with
a cotton swab, leaving the matte coat in
the folds and creases. It works great!
Phil James
Victoria, Australia
Tip(s): I have found a few tips that,
although not revolutionary, some
readers may find helpful.
I have started using empty coffee cans
to separate my spare/leftover parts.
Because I am an airplane and car guy,
this helps greatly if I am looking for a
specific piece to replace or use for test-
painting, as well as for rubber bands/
clothespins, etc.
I also have started saving the small
dosage cups from over-the-counter
medicines, which I have found useful to
keep small decals/parts out of harms
way or from going missing. They make
great mixing cups, too.
I also use the tops of various sports
drinks, as well as cylindrical potato chip
lids, to sample spray paint blending,
These lids are also ideal for prewetting
tiny decals, as they are deep enough to
cover the decal without making you
chase it down and around.
Thanks for your time, and keep up
the great work!
Thomas Voss
East Windsor, New Jersey
QUESTIONS FOR KEN?
Mail your building questions
and modeling tips to
SCALE AUTO, Tips & Tech
E-mail:
KHamiltonSA@aol.com
Subscribers can access the Tips & Tech
archive at ScaleAutoMag.com
WANT MORE?

BENCHRACER BY ANDY KELLOCK
Building a 1950s
NASCAR convertible
N
ASCAR RAN a convertible division
from 1956 -1959. I had some old
Fred Cady decals for Curtis
Turners 1956 ride, and now that Round
2 has rereleased the AMT 1956 Ford
Victoria, I can use these to make his car.
The same techniques applied here can
be used for any car from 1956 -1959,
including the 1957 Ford from Revell.
There are plenty of model choices for
NASCAR subjects in these years. Use
your imagination and come up with a
unique-looking model for your
NASCAR collection.
BODY/INTERIOR Start by removing
the roof from the body. Cut the front of
the roof just behind the windscreen
header, leaving enough plastic to be
shaped for the top of the windscreen.
The rear pillars can be cut close to the
body. Grind away the bottom molding
of the rear window, as the rear deck is
flat under the tonneau cover.
The AMT 1956 Ford has opening
doors, but most of the pictures Ive seen
of the NASCAR convertibles show that
the doors were bolted shut with plates,
so I chose to glue the doors in place.
The glued-on doors also strengthen the
body during assembly.
1956 was the first year for convertible
division racing, and most of the cars
had a single roll hoop behind the
drivers seat. In later years there was a
second hoop under the windscreen, and
by the end of the series in 1959 there
was a full cage around the driver.
All of the pictures Ive seen of Curtis
Turners 1956 convertible show a single
hoop behind the front bench seat.
Because of this simple arrangement and
the fact that the rest of the interior is
covered by the tonneau, I decided to
complete assembly of the car first, and
fit the roll bar and tonneau cover last.
PAINT Curtis Turners car was painted
Colonial White and Mandarin Orange,
and I used MCW lacquer for the finish
over white primer. It also had a two-
tone interior in these colors.
For a subtle color contrast, I used
Tamiya Racing White for the interior
white, then I used a semigloss clear to
give the appearance of vinyl.
The dash seemed to be mostly stock,
and the only modification was I taped
over the drivers wheel with pinstriping
tape to replicate the electrical tape used
on the 1:1 cars.
WHEELS/TIRES I used the steel wheels
and stock tires that came in the kit.
Pictures of the car show the wheels to be
black, Mandarin Orange, or red. I chose
red. Give the wheels a black wash to
bring out the depth, and pick out the
axle stub and lugnuts in a steel color.
DETAILS After the car is painted, apply
the Bare-Metal foil. The windscreen
frame is fragile, so I installed the
windscreen first for support before
foiling the frame.
Now you can assemble the car as per
the kit instructions.
Leave out the back seat. Dont worry
about painting the rear half of the
interior; it will be covered by the
tonneau.
An easy roll hoop can be made using
10-gauge electrical wire with the
insulation left on. Bend it into a C shape
so that the vertical sides fit within the
open body sides. Trim the length so that
By simply removing the roof and
adding a roll bar and tonneau cover,
you can convert any 1956-1959 car
into a replica of a racer from
NASCARs convertible division.

the top of the hoop is just slightly higher
than the top of the windscreen. You can
paint the wire or wrap it with narrow
strips of electrical tape to simulate the
padding used on the 1:1 car.
TONNEAU COVER Some cars had the
entire interior covered, with just a hole
for the driver to sit in. Others had just
the rear passenger area covered, as the
pictures of Turners car show. Check
references to see what sort of cover is
appropriate.
Use a piece of card stock or heavy
paper to make a template of the area to
be covered. After you have the correct
shape, you can transfer it to styrene
sheet or use heavy paper for the cover. I
glued black craft paper on top of the
card stock, and if you roll the edges over
and leave a flap to tuck behind the front
seat, it is strong and self-supporting.
ENGINE It would be very close to a
stock engine from this period, with the
air cleaner installed.
FINISHING UP There are a few final
details to make your car more like a
racer from this period:
Replace the headlights with flat disks
of plastic painted body color.
Dont install the taillight lenses, and
paint the recesses flat aluminum.
Install some lap belts for the driver.
You can use the set in the kit, or make
some from the same black craft paper
used for the tonneau.
Cut the roof behind the windscreen and at the base of the rear pillars. Leave enough plastic
behind the windscreen to shape a smooth header. The rear pillars can be cut close to the body,
and the rear window molding needs to be ground flat.
A simple roll bar can be made from 10-gauge electrical wire with the insulation left on. Make a
template for the tonneau cover using card stock. Dimensions shown are 65mm long by 63mm
wide. Leave a flap to tuck behind the front seat.
Presents the...
Motor City
NNL #9
held in conjunction with the 47th Annual
Detroit Area Auto Modelers Toy Show
Sunday, November 24th, 2013
9:00 A.M. - 3:00 P.M.
Theme Class:
Picture 2 Plastic-Models inspired
by a photo in a book or magazine
Sub-Theme Class:
60 Years of Corvettes
Visit www.daamclub.org
For vender information
Call: 586-344-9496
Macomb Community College
Sport & Expo Center
12 Mile Road at Hayes
Just West of Groesbeck
Warren, Michigan
Model Car Kits Promos
Die Cast Aftermarket Parts
Resin Kits Old Toys
Collectibles & More
See your favorite hobby shop for
our complete line of plastic kits
or send a self-addressed stamped
envelope to: Galaxie Limited,
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21 foot tandem axle tag-along trailer
Slingshot dragster
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www.galaxielimited.com

TRUCKSTOP BY EVAN HERMEL
TRANSTAR 4300
DOINGS
G
LAMOR WITH GUTS. That was the
theme of International Harvesters
promotion of the F4200/4300
series of tractors when they were
introduced in 1971.
The 4200 differed from the 4300 by
having a shorter nose and appeared to
have been marketed for more heavy-duty
applications, such as dump or
construction bodies. In contrast, the
4300 was marketed as a medium-to-
high-end highway tractor.
Both trucks have been kitted by Ertl,
and the 4300 has been rereleased several
times, including the past two years.
Features include posable steering,
options for one or twin exhaust stacks,
and gorgeous decals.
ENGINE The kit comes with an
International V-800. Information on
detailing this engine can be found in the
last Truck Stop column. This engine
was actually not that common, and
every photo Ive seen of the 4300 shows
them equipped with a Cummins
NTC350/855, or a Detroit Diesel 8v72.
CHASSIS The posable steering went
together well, but I was disappointed
with Ertl for not including the steering
shaft. This should connect the steering
box and the oval inset in the firewall.
You can correct this omission with some
.060" rod.
The most problematic part of the
chassis was the rear suspension. The
rear drive axle is too long, which will
lead to the rear axles being cockeyed
instead of nicely parallel to the ground.
The overlong driveshaft, in turn,
affected the fit of the torsion bars,
making them appear to be too short.
The round ends of the torsion bars
are also too large for their appropriate
receptacles on the axles. This will require
a fix by replacing those receptacles with
some .020" x .080" strip.
I love the detail on the fixed position
fifth wheel, but the mounting plate is
grossly overwide. Its definitely meant
for a wider chassis. Theres no good fix
for this, other than using a mounting
plate and fifth wheel from any AMT
truck kit.
The biggest problem in the kit is that
the front wheels do not center in the
wheel wells. Apparently this is a
holdover from using the same chassis
with hoods of different lengths. I
remedied this by moving the hood
mounting pins and radiator back by
approximately 5mm.
Unfortunately, another problem
surfaced by this repair: the hood does
not clear the front bumper upon
swinging forward. I only discovered this
late in the building process, and in
hindsight, Id lower the bumper by
about 2mm.
CAB Ertls truck kits were revolutionary
in their day by having separate interior
The AMT Transtar 4300 lends it
self to multiple interpretations
of highway tractors.

cab wall pieces, and for the elimination
of the greenhouse such as is found in
the AMT Autocar kit and its siblings.
However, there some pitfalls in
assembling the cab.
I found it extremely difficult to push
the sidewalls into place. It may be easier
to glue the sidewalls to the rear cab wall,
and slide the entire unit into place.
The windshield fit was also poor. If
youre like me and like to show off a
well-detailed cab interior (I have a belief
that models can be rolling dioramas),
you probably like to open up, or leave
off, the side windows. If you do so with
the Transtar, youll need to paint
interior surrounds of the side windows
black, because the spaces between the
doors and sidewalls will be visible.
Those two square projections on the
dash where speedometer and tachometer
gauges should be are tachygraphs, which
were meant to record speed and RPM.
Not all trucks had these, so I drilled
them out, replaced them with a square
of styrene, and added some gauge
decals.
Oddly, the heater (normally mounted
under the passengers seat) is missing in
the Transtar kit, but I believe that Ertl
corrected this in the Paystar 5000 kit.
You can craft one from a roof-mount
air-conditioner unit from the AMT
White-Freightliner kit.
The captains seats are open in the
back and will require filling in or
covering the opening if you decide to
leave off the sleeper box.
THE MODEL The model you see here
was inspired by two things: I had a set
of IMF decals from the recent AMT
Kenworth K123 kit (IMF never used
Kenworths, by the way); and in
researching IMF trucks, I found a single
photo on the internet of a retired
Interstate Motor Freight 4300 short
wheelbase tractor.
I shortened the chassis by about two
scale feet, and shorted the drivers-side
fuel tank. The front bumper was
likewise trimmed to mimic the real
thing.
The kits Alcoa wheels were replaced
by some resin 5-spoke units from
American Industrial Truck Models, and
an airfoil was modified from an AMT
Mack R kit. Cab marker lights came
from the Ford LN kit.
I replicated the heat-retainer using a
piece of card stock (the real things are
often simply pieces of cardboard boxes).
More photos of the model can be
seen at http://public.fotki.com/amcan/
transtar-4300/.
NEW AND INTERESTING STUFF
P&P Resin Works, a new find for me,
has sent us a 1980-94 Ford F600/700 cab
conversion, and its a beauty!
The parts are cast in a smooth, light
tan resin, with no pinholes. Pieces
include one-piece cab + hood, separate
grille, interior bucket, dash, bench seat,
front bumper, and steering wheel.
Suggested donor kits would be the
AMT ALF 1000 series pumper or the
LN9000.
If youre daring, cut open the hood
and use the engine from the AMT 1994
Ford pickup for the 370/427 engines
these trucks used. I think the fire-
apparatus guys will really love this, and
I rate the casting as excellent. Cost is
$50 + postage.
Modeltruckin.com has more than 60
freight line decals for tractors, as well as
cab stripes for specific marques of
trucks. Newest in its line is a set of
Great Dane and Thermo King logos for
the new Moebius 53-foot reefer trailer.
Im especially impressed by the silver
color used. Registration is crisp, and the
colors are sharp especially the silver
tones. Optional mud flap decals are
included. Enough logos are given for
four separate trailers.
A sheet is only $10.
Another cool selection is Detail Sheet
#3, which has fuel tax decals, license
plates, and other decals. I counted plate
pairs for at least 11 different tractors.
Cost is $8.
QUESTIONS FOR EVAN?
Send your truck modeling questions to
SCALE AUTO, Truck Stop
Waukesha, WI 53187-1612

E-mail: ehermel@att.net
The slightly off-kilter exhaust pipe on the stack was deliberate. This represents a truck at the
end of its service life that has been put out to pasture.
Note the rack supporting the airfoil. These are
accurate representations of the real things;
very different from what AMT included in its
truck kits. The pogo stick is a piece of square
styrene rod.
Modeltruckin.com
16078 Lizana School Rd.
Gulfport MS 39503
modeltruckin.com/store/
P&P Resin Works
c/o Eric Jones
319 Howell Rd.
Mocksville NC 27028
(336) 998-9592
ppvintagekits.com/index.html
eric@ppvintagekits.com
SOURCES

How to combine parts
from three kits to build
this drag racer t by TIM BOYD
I
CALL IT Conceptual Kitbashing:
clever forethought in the kits that
you employ for your kitbashing
project, chosen to deliver maximum
visual impact with the minimal amount
of modifications during the build phase.
I was looking for a 1960s-style AAM/
SP drag racing chassis and engine to
create a Gasser-style kitbash build from
Revells new 1962 Corvette kit.
I was able to locate two 1960s kits
that had the right speed equipment, but
were also designed in such a way as to
expedite the kitbashing project. Even
better, both kits have just been reissued!
The first kit is Revells evergreen Miss
Deal 1953 Studebaker Funny Car. In
reality, there were no Studebaker Funny
Cars back then, but there were a few
Gassers, and thats what this kit
replicates.
The key enabler here is that the frame
in this kit was converted from the
original Revell Parts Pack Custom Car
frame which was a frame designed to
fit all first-generation (C1) bodies.
The second key enabler is that I chose
the competition engine parts, wheels,
and decals from the old AMT Sock it to
Me 1962 Corvette kit. This kit suffers in
terms of body and chassis accuracy (in
part because of its promo/annual kit
roots), but the speed equipment and
psychedelic-era decals are sized to fit
this project almost perfectly.
Combining these three kits led to a
rapid build it took me just a couple of
months, instead of a couple of years
with a minimum of fiddling and
adapting parts for fit.
If you can follow a similar approach
on your next project, you too will
become a fan of Conceptual
Kitbashing.
Here are the kits well use for almost all the parts of our 1962 Corvette Gasser project. The
Revell Miss Deal and AMT Sock it to Me kits will have been reissued by the time you read this;
the Revell 1962 Corvette an all-new tool was issued in late 2012.
Kitbash a 1962
Corvette Gasser

Heres the key to this a relatively easy kitbashing project: the Gasser-
style Revell Miss Deal frame (left) was converted from Revells earlier
Parts Pack C1123 Custom Car Frame (center). It was patterned after a
C1 Corvette chassis, which is confirmed when you compare it to the
stock Revell 1962 Corvette frame (right) all key dimensions match.
The firewall from the Revell Corvette kit is glued to the Miss Deal
floorboard. It fits ahead of the tabs molded in the floorboard that
locate the Miss Deal roll bar assembly. I now recommend that you glue
the floorboard
1
16 inch forward of the tabs, rather than directly
against them as shown. This will aid positioning the tires in the center
of the wheel wells during final assembly.
The only major modification youll need to make to the Miss Deal
chassis is to return the front crossmember which was relocated
forward for the Miss Deal kit to its stock C1 Corvette location.
Mark the centerline of the crossmember, then measure and mark a
second line
1
4 inch rearward. Cut out the crossmember and reglue it in
the new location.
Ive completed relocation of the front chassis crossmember. The
masking tape pulls the frame rails slightly inboard to grip the
crossmember while the glue dries. Ive marked the Miss Deal floorboard
in front of the new firewall, to be cut away later.
I fabricated an additional crossmember from Evergreen square tubing.
The underside of the crossmember is notched to fit the tab on the
Revell 1962 Corvette four-speed transmission.
The front and rear suspensions from the Revell Miss Deal kit are used
as they come from the box. The tooling is worn, and youll need to
clean up all these parts. If your project is a contest build, remove the
parting lines and plating from the front suspension, and paint it with
Alclad II Chrome or send it out to a plating service.
1 2
3 4
5 6

If you use the blown Corvette engine parts as I did, youll need to file
the front crossmember to create clearance for the blower drive pulley.
Of course, this is more easily done before you reach the stage of
completion shown here!
Some of my favorite parts of the original AMT Sock it to Me 1962
Corvette kit are the shallowndeep Halibrand mag wheels. Ive paired
them with the new tampo-lettered drag slicks found in several new AMT
kits (such as the 1976 AMC Gremlin).
I used the Revell 1962 Corvette 327 short-block as the basis of the
engine, with most of the remaining engine parts coming from the Sock
it to Me kit. I forgot to include the clutch scattershield, which was
NHRA-mandated for manual transmissions. You could adapt the Revell
Miss Deal part (shown here in blue); check to see if you need additional
transmission tunnel and/or crossmember clearance.
The Sock it to Me kit includes single- and dual-blower drive engine
supercharger options. Only the single blower was NHRA-legal, so my
car, which uses the dual-blower option, would have had to run as an
NHRA exhibition class entry, or exclusively at AHRA tracks. I retained
the Revell 1962 Corvette engine front cover, with engine mounts.
AMT kits from this era did not always fit together well, and adapting
these parts to the Revell engine block can be tricky. To get the blower
drive pulley to line up with the engine crankshaft, I reduced the height
of the blower manifold by sectioning out the material shown on the left
and regluing the remaining parts as shown on the right.
The completed engine assembly includes spark plug wires and
extensive paint detailing (mostly Testors Metalizers and DullCote).
Those trick Hilborn four-port scoops are from Replicas & Miniatures of
Maryland (#P-46); I later removed the mounting flanges below the
scoops that are seen here, so that the blower assembly would clear the
hood opening.
7 8
9 10
11 12

This almost never happens when kitbashing: the engine mounts for the
kitbashed AMT/Revell Corvette engine lined up perfectly with the
engine mount tabs on the Revell Miss Deal frame. Once again, the Miss
Deal frames origins as a C1 Corvette frame served to simplify the
project!
To fit the reconfigured driveline, the Revell Miss Deal driveshaft (top)
was both shortened, and the universal joints were cut apart and
repositioned (bottom) to represent the proper driveshaft phasing.
When I repositioned the front crossmember, I cut away the molded-in
Moon fuel tank mounts. Here I redeploy them by gluing them to some
mounting tabs made from sheet styrene.
I located the Revell Corvette steering box and column to the Miss Deal
frame, then glued the Miss Deal Pittman arm (shown here in silver) in
place. The steering drag link came from my parts box.
Body modifications are relatively minor. I mocked up the Revell 1962
Corvette body on the completed chassis/powertrain assembly, and
marked where to cut a hole in the hood for blower assembly clearance.
After cutting the holes, use various files to finalize the fit.
It was popular back in the 1960s to add a third taillight to each side of
a C1 or C2 Corvette. I measured for the third lights, drilled holes, then
used the file shown to make the holes match the size and angle of the
two outboard lights on each side of the body.
13 14
15 16
17 18

19 20
A subsequent issue of the Revell 1962 Corvette will include the stock
hardtop, but until that kit arrives, youll need to use the hardtop from
Revells 1959 Corvette kit of a few years ago, or adapt the hardtop from
the Sock it to Me kit. I did the latter, by filing notches on the underside
of the hardtop casting. They are positioned to clear the Revell
windshield frame mounting tabs and the decklid ridge.
I used black embossing powder to create carpet on the Revell Miss
Deal floorboard. Masking tape was applied to create a border for the
carpeting effect. I filled the notch in the floorboard for the Revell Miss
Deal steering linkage; it was not needed with our steering
configuration.
Those late-1960s psychedelic-style graphics were part of the original
AMT Sock it to Me kit that I used for this build. Like most AMT decal
sheets from this era, they aged poorly and required a great deal of
effort to restore and apply to this body. Fortunately, Round 2s reissue
will include a reproduction of the original decals, manufactured with
todays standards for accuracy and ease of application.
The completed engine compartment contains no plated parts; natural
metal finishes are far more realistic. The Hilborn blower scoops have
had the mounting flanges removed so that they sit flush on top of the
blowers.
The finished interior greatly benefits from the added detail found in
the new Revell 1962 Corvette kit. The roll bar height had to be reduced
slightly to clear the mold thickness of the AMT 1962 Corvette hardtop/
glass assembly.
In the AM/ and AAM/SP drag racing classes, Corvettes were allowed to
run without the hardtop, and even without the windshield/frame.
Shown here without the hood and hardtop, the car already takes on a
more-purposeful pose; a cut-down racing-style windscreen should be in
the reissued Sock it to Me kit, should you want to go that route.
FINISHED MODEL

21 22
Although you could use the stock seats from the Revell 1962 Corvette
kit, I wanted something more race-inspired. I settled on the bucket
seats from the AMT Ohio George 1933 Willys kit. The roll bar is
fashioned from Evergreen styrene rod; the steering wheel and shifter
comes from the Miss Deal kit.
The last building step is to fashion a more-appropriate grille treatment.
Using a motor tool with a speed control, carefully grind away material
from behind until the molded-in eggcrate grille texture is removed.
This leaves an open grille cavity that visually frames the Moon fuel
tank in the engine compartment.
The opened grille frame pays off in this front view. Some racers even
removed the center horizontal bar, leaving just the chromed grille
border in place. The properly-sized headlamps seen here are among the
key improvements of the Revell 1962 Corvette body vs. the previous
AMT body.
The third taillamps on each side, the parachute (from the AMT Corvette
kit), and the purposeful rear axle/differential from the Revell Miss Deal
are key visual elements. Note the new tampo-printed Round 2/AMT
drag slicks.
A peek underneath shows just how well the Revell Miss Deal chassis fits
the Revell 1962 Corvette body. Aside from relocating the front
crossmember, no further fitting of the chassis or frame was required.
The raised ride height reflects the drag racing chassis technology of
the mid-1960s. Those burly traction bars and the blower scoops that
just clear the hood send a clear message about the purpose of this
machine!

TOP 10
Which Gasser kits made the
grade? Which fell short?
Heres a look Yp K@D 9FP;
Its a pretty safe bet that Revells 1951 Anglia and AMTs 1933 Willys kits would make most lists of the all-time Top Ten Gasser model car kits.
@
F YOU LOOK at magazines, attend drag-racing events, or
go to car shows, the news is the same these days: One of
the hottest automotive themes is to recreate or restore the
Drag Racing Gasser look of the 1960s.
With that in mind, I thought it might be interesting to take
a look at the best 1/24 and 1/25 scale model car kits to consult
when you are building Gasser models.
For this article, we are going to adopt the contemporary
understanding of the term Gasser, which is broader than the
NHRA rules-specific 1960s definition. Further, were most
interested in the variety, amount, and style of the Gasser parts
in each of these kits, rather than their overall competency.
For example, even though it does not meet the original
Gasser definition, Ive included Revells Miss Deal kit among
our Honorable Mention kits, because it is a virtual gold mine
for builders to use when they are kitbashing dare to be
different Gasser models.
Monograms Bad Man kit makes our list, even though
overall the kit is seriously lacking in certain areas of
authenticity. But it does a great job of capturing the Gasser
spirit, and again is a great source of parts for Gasser
kitbashing projects.
Any Top Ten list is going to be subjective. Recognizing this,
Ive listed the aforementioned ten Honorable Mention kits,
and included the five Most Disappointing Gasser kits.
Of course, if you see it differently, lets hear your view at
ScaleAutoMag.com.
Ive listed each category based on the date each kit was
introduced to the market. In most cases, the box art shown in
the photographs is that of the original release; in a few cases,
the box art is from more recent reproductions of the originals,
or Ive shown several of the earliest kit releases.
Gasser kts of all time

keve|| 5toae Roods aad 0oo| !94! R|||ys "5w|ad|er II" !963
Probably the first-ever true Gasser kit in 1/25 scale. Features a blown
first-gen Olds V-8, opening doors and trunk, highly detailed interior,
chassis with quarter elliptic rear springs, and decals replicating one of
the prime combatants of the original drag strip Gasser Wars. Although
similar in parts count to Revells other kits of this era, this one seemed
to offer easier assembly and completion. Revells decision to make this
an exact replica of the real SW&C Gasser, itself a famous race car of
the era, was groundbreaking in many ways. Its seldom recognized as
such, but this might be one of Revells best 1960s kits.
kMJ f||pfroat !940 R|||ys from the !932 ford 0ustom/!940 R|||ys
0oub|e k|t !963
The 1932 Ford Custom part of this AMT Trophy Series Double Kit is
largely forgotten these days, but when the 1940 Willys part of this kit
hit the hobby store shelves in late 1963, it was just too cool. The
super-hot one-piece flip front end? Check. A blown Olds V-8 with all
the right name gear? Check. Halibrand Quick Change Rear
Differential? Check. A nicely turned-out tucknroll upholstered interior
with roll bar, Moon gas pedal, ribbed instrument panel with eight
gauge, and competition steering wheel? Check. Name-brand speed
parts from Moon, Eelco, Spalding Flamethrower, Enderle, and
Halibrand? WIN! Back then, and now. AMT offered this same basic kit
later with a Willys pickup body.
kMJ !955 0hevy Nomad Jrophy 5er|es 3 |a ! "Romp|a' Raoa" !965
Another period-correct kit in the AMT Trophy Series, this release
showcased the latest, front up gasser stance via an optional beam
front axle, combined with its own frame crossmember, transverse leaf
spring, and matching front/rear chromed radius rods/traction bars. The
Gasser engine accessories included a high-rise Hilborn fuel-injection
setup and weedburner headers. The decals were inspired by the 1:1
Wompin Wagon, although the box art illustrated the car in a different
color. The finishing touch? A drivers drag-racing helmet. Perfect!
keve|| !95! ka||a "5||pper's 0r|tter" !966
Also among Revells best kits of the decade, this one appeared shortly
after the diminutive English Ford import began its run as the car to
run in the Gasser classes. Although it retained the complexities of other
Revell kits of the era (opening doors, opening trunk, working steering),
it was (again) easier to assemble than most Revell kits. Some elements
(the engine block, the rear suspension design, and the bucket seats)
were based on earlier Revell kits, but the remaining elements were
period-correct. Ill never forget those side box illustrations in Candy
Red with Blue plexi windows and a pearl white interior. Brilliant!
Revell also offered this basic kit with a Thames panel delivery body.
kMJ !931 0hevy 0oupe Jrophy 5er|es 3 |a ! !961
Few people think of 1937 Chevys when they think of Gassers. Truth be
told, the 1937 Chevys that ran in the gas classes were more predominant
in the late 1950s and early 1960s, but not so much in 1967 when this kit
was released. Regardless, the Gasser version of the kit was an
outstanding execution of the genre, and that goes well beyond the
plated and highly arched parallel front leaf springs and shocks that
yielded the nose-high Gasser look. For one, this was among the first
model kits to include a blown version of Chevys still-new 427 Rat
engine. Even better was the gorgeous tucknroll instrument panel pad,
with a recessed-and-plated instrument cluster that was shared with the
street rod version of the kit. Ive used those parts in many builds over
the ensuing decades. The blanked, grilleless nose piece and period
decals were the perfect finishing touch. AMT soon introduced a second
version of this kit, with a 1937 Chevy Cabriolet body.

THE TOP 10

kMJ 0h|o 0eore Moatomery !933 R|||ys Jrophy 5er|es !968
I can remember waiting months and months for this kit to appear after
its announcement. When it finally hit the shelves, it was not a typical
AMT Trophy Series 3 in 1, but a single building version representing a
replica of what some consider the most dominant Gasser of the era.
Two full trees of plated parts, chopped top, tilting one-piece front end
it was all there. The 427 Cammer was the best kit replica yet of that
engine, and was reused in a number of other AMT kits. Among the last
of AMTs truly great Trophy Series kits, Round 2 has just restored the
kit and reissued it with the original decals and parts. AMT later offered
the same basic kit with a 1933 Willys Sedan Deliver Gasser body.
MP0 !961 & !969 "0h|o 0eore" Moatomery Mustaas !968 & !910
The top Gasser classes underwent a revolution with the Ohio George
Montgomery Mustang. The streamlined, low-slung car was an instant
success, and MPC hit the scene with a highly accurate replica shortly
thereafter. The unique frame and suspension reportedly adapted from
Montgomerys earlier Willys race cars was rendered in full detail.
Accurate graphics, a complex (for the time) roll-bar setup, and a flip
front were all part of the kit. The SOHC 427 engine didnt live up to the
rest of the kit, and the front end was notoriously inaccurate (retooled
from MPCs 1966 Mustang). The 1967 kit tool was modified slightly for
several street-machine-themed reissues, and was returned to original
form for an additional release in late 2013. Around 1970, the basic
chassis/suspension/interior was carried over for a second new kit, with
a one-piece transparent clear body casting of the 1969 Mustang Ohio
George Mr. Gasket Gasser car. Not available new since the early
1970s, this latter is a rare and pricey collectible. Its being investigated
as a possible future reissue topic.
Moaoram !955 0hevy "8ad Maa" !969
If sheer accuracy throughout was a requirement, this kit would not
make the cut. But if your criteria includes capturing the zeitgeist (spirit
of the moment) of the late 1960s, when Gassers were fading from the
drag strips but increasingly showing up as street machines, this Tom
Daniel-designed retool of Monograms original 1/24 scale 1955 Chevy
kit clearly makes it. Even if you dont care for the body in this kit (and I
dont), most of the revised parts the front suspension, ladder bars,
interior components, and even some of the engine parts are perfect for
kitbashing. Still readily available, still widely loved, and an excellent
first kit build for a new or returning model builder.
MP0 !951 0hevy 0asser !915
Sharing the same engine (a blown 454 Rat), chassis, suspension, and
some interior details with a companion 1953 Ford F-100 kit, this kit
captures the Street Gasser/Street Freak movement of the 1970s. The
frame which allows building with two different wheelbases is a
nearly perfect source for many 1940s-to-1960s body-on-frame Gasser
and Street Freak kitbashing projects. This kit has been issued in several
versions, each with unique detail changes. Its starting to get a little
pricey in the old kit aftermarket; Round 2 reports that a reissue is
possible, but not part of its near-term plans.
keve|| !94! R|||ys Joha Mazmaa|aa, 5toae Roods aad 0oo| (8|ac| 0ar),
aad k. 5. P|ttmaa 200!, 2006, 20!2
Some sources claim that the backstory on these newly-tooled kits was
that Revell was planning yet another reissue of its original 1941 Willys
tool as a John Mazmanian licensed property, but determined that the
old tool was essentially worn out. Whatever the explanation, Revells
all-new kit was based on a recreation/restoration of one of the versions
of the original 1960s Mazmanian Willys, and reflects some of the
compromises/updates taken with the 1:1 car. Later reissued with
alternative markings and again in Revells current offerings, this is
among the most accurate of the Gasser kits listed here.
THE TOP TEN continued

With a kit genre as popular as Gassers, back in the day and again today,
to list the Top Ten kits is barely scratching the surface. Here are ten kits
that just missed the cut:
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subsequent issues
Not a Gasser in the purest sense, but hundreds of thousands of these
kits were built with the blown 409 Chevy engine option, the raised front
suspension, and those (hard to find, first-issue only) four-window
Halibrand rear mags.
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Like AMTs kit, Revells original 1957 Chevy kit offered a very nicely
done GMC-blown engine option, a raised front end, and some really
compelling box art to prove the point. A major revision of the kit at the
end of the decade entirely changed the engine parts (now derived from
the prior Revell Parts Pack offering), while adding a simplified dual
leaf spring/tubular front suspension setup.
The original kit was a bear to assemble, but the first-generation release
(left) and the moderate retooling of the kit in 1970 (right) featured
Gasser-themed box art and optional parts.
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With an optional 409 Chevy engine that was configured as though it
could have been part of Revells famous Parts Pack series, and many of
the other components needed for a classic Tri-Five Gasser, this kit
was destined for greatness from the moment it hit the shelves. Really,
really fussy to build, just like Revells other original Tri-Five kits. Great
box art to boot.
8DK (0-- =XcZfe 8eelXc B`k (0-,
As its Gasser-themed Trophy Series kits continued to sell well, AMT
began to adapt the Gasser idiom to the competition versions of its 3
in 1 annual kits. Perhaps the most outlandish of those was the third-
generation Falcon kit, with a truly nose-high stance. (It was billed on
the box art as an A/FX option, but the lack of an altered wheelbase
made it equally valid as a street Gasser). The interior incorporated an
accurately-engraved floor pan/back panel if the rear seat was omitted
for the Gasser version. Beyond the accurate Gasser-style tube front axle
setup, the 289 V-8 was optioned with a supercharger topped by a wild
quad-Weber carb setup and matching headers. The finishing touch? A
custom-formed parachute fairing for the rear end. The Gasser (or A/
FX) parts with slight modifications carried over to AMTs 1967-
1969 Falcon annual kits. Perfect!

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Revell pitched this as a Funny Car kit, but had it been a 1:1 scale car,
the body/frame configuration/suspension would have been pure
Gasser-class material. The kit was comprised of a repurposed body
from a stillborn Revell 1953 Studebaker kit tool, with most of the
remaining parts sourced from Revells earlier Parts Pack series,
including the early Chrysler Hemi engine, front and rear suspension
components, bucket seats, wheels and tires, and so forth. The frame
was originally sized to fit first-generation (C1) Corvette kits, and could
still be used for that application. Its been reissued multiple times, and
is once again in Revells catalog.
HONORABLE MENTION

DG: (0-/$(0.) >KF Xe[ (0-/&(0-0 DljkXe^ >K 8eelXc B`kj
(1967-1971)
Featured prominently when these kits were new, many have escaped
some of us today that these MPC annual kits also came with optional
parts that enabled a nose-higher Gasser stance. The components,
including plated four-bar radius rods, coil-over spring shock absorbers,
and a tube axle were similar to the parts in MPCs Funny Car kits that
featured the Logghe chassis design. Each kit contained other parts
mostly engine options that also echoed the street Gasser theme, but
the front axle setups are the highlight of this story. These same parts
can still be found buried deep inside most of MPCs many reissues of
the 1969 Mustang GT kit.
DG: DXcZf Jlg\i M\kk (0.)
MPC took its excellent 1960 Corvette kit and produced a major revision
to accurately replicate Chris Langs ISCA Custom Car Show Grand
Champion winner and C/G class drag racer. The kit gained one-piece
front flip, Hilborn injector setup, over-frame Gasser-style headers,
radiused rear wheel wells, shallow and deep six-window Halibrand
wheels, all complimented with a large decal sheet that replicated the
prototypes ribbon starsnstripes paint scheme.
DG: F_`f >\fi^\ (0.' DXm\i`Zb (0.(
Boy, is this one an interesting story. Astute modelers have noted that
the MPC kit differs in significant ways from the final Maverick race car
that Ohio George used at the tracks, and a quick Web search should
reveal a number of stories regarding how the 1:1 car and the kit came to
be. Beyond that, MPCs model kit was a stand-alone, all-new tool that
was specific to this prototype at a time when MPCs other drag racing
kits were becoming more and more generic each year. The kit was
configured with a stock wheelbase for the Gasser classes, along with
parts to swap to a longer wheelbase for the altered classes. A
fascinating kit to own and build.
DG: (0.*$(0.+ Zl[X Xe[ :_Xcc\e^\i XeelXc b`kj (0.)$.*
By 1973, interest in the MPC cuda and Challenger annual kits had run
its course. Clearly, the kitmaker needed a new merchandising angle.
Revisiting an approach used for the AMT 1966 Falcon and its own
GTO and Mustang annual kits, MPC engineered an entirely new
Gasser front clip for these kits. Included were an early-1970s Gasser-
style front subframe, parallel front leaf springs, Moon fuel tank, roll
bar, deepndeeper Keystone mags, rear spoilers, wheelie bars, and
parachute. The engines were also updated with Hilborn fuel-injection
setups with ram tubes. These are fascinating kits that have never been
reissued in this format, and thus they carry the high prices found on
many collectible Mopar model car kits.
8DK (0,( :_\mp 9\c 8ì ?Xi[kfg (0.-
This one is admittedly a sleeper choice; few modelers would think of
this as a Gasser kit. Yet when you study the kit, it has all the
appropriate accoutrements starting with an exceptionally complete
and well-done Fisher 12-Port engine conversion with Hilborn fuel
injection and six-tube headers (the box art states that it provided a
sound like a B-29 in a power dive!) Then AMT added a raised front
ride-height option, traction bars, roll bar, competition steering wheel,
floor shift, and front and rear chrome reversed wheels. That this kit
was engineered during a difficult period in AMTs history makes it
even more notable here.
HONORABLE MENTION continued

BIGGEST DISAPPOINTMENTS
WHATS NEXT?
Fortunately, nearly all 1/25 scale kits with a Gasser theme will please the
builder, and a number of other Gasser kits nearly made our lists above.
But a few Gasser kits are likely to disappoint, and in the interest of full
disclosure, we are listing them here.
Revell 1941 Willys Pickup, Revell 1951 Henry J, and Revell 1950 Austin,
(0-0# (0-0# Xe[ (0.'
These three kits were introduced during the late 1960s and they share
the same chassis, engine, and overall kit- design philosophy. The
primary value of these kits is for their bodies. The engine is probably
the worst drag racing 427 SOHC Ford ever found in mainstream 1/25
scale kits. The chassis is simplistic in design, with unrealistic geometry
for the front wheels. The operation of the working body parts is sloppy
at best. Oh, if these kits only had the design integrity of Revells earlier
1960s Gasser kits! Reissued many times over the years and easy to find
today, the most desirable versions are the recent ones with new and
period-correct decal sheets and Revells current manufacturing quality
control.
I\m\cc (0,* :_\mp 9\c 8ì Xe[ (0,+ :_\mp J\[Xe ;\c`m\ip (0-0
These were combination street- and Gasser-themed kits. The engine
was a 409 Chevy, in blown or dual quad carbed form. The builder was
expected to cut open the doors if they wanted to use the hinging
mechanisms included in the kit. Most versions of these kits included
stock and Gasser-style front suspensions. Although these kits do not
share parts with the Revell Henry J, Austin, and Willys Pickup Gasser
kits, they are from the same period of Revells history and as a result,
the kit design philosophy is similar.
With the renewed popularity of
Gassers, its a pretty safe bet
well see newly-tooled Gasser
variations of several 1/25 scale
recent kit introductions. I know
of one such kit in the
engineering phase right now, and
wouldnt be surprised if a couple
more are announced by the time
you read this article.
Ive often said that building
Gasser model car kits is a guilty
pleasure, and its an experience
that should be shared by every
model builder who has even a
moderate interest in this genre.
So what are you waiting for?
Tim Boyd
Several of our Top Ten Gasser models
included companion kits with pickup,
sedan delivery, or convertible bodies.
These variants were otherwise
identical to their sedan and coupe kit
brethren.

HOW TO USE ALCLAD
CANDY PAINT
New line of candy colors lays down well with good preparation Yp D8IB 98KJFE
R
ECENTLY Alclad introduced its new line of about a dozen
candy colors. At the same time, I was working on a kit
review for Scale Auto. Although it wasnt part of my kit
review, I decided to try out one of the colors on the project.
I was impressed with the brilliant Bright Silver Base and the
Candy Cobalt Blue I chose for the subject. The base coat and
the candy coat laid down so smoothly that I found no need for
a clear coat.
As with all candy-type paints, you will want to take a little
extra time in body prep and priming, because sanding
scratches and flaws in the bodywork tend to stand out under
this type finish.
To help with fine scratches, Alclad has also introduced a
fine white primer and scratch filler.
For this review, we will be looking at the Bright Silver Base
Coat and several candy colors. Be sure to check your local
hobby shop for your favorite.
I chopped up an old glue bomb found at a yard sale, and
with the body panels primed and finished with Bright Silver
base coat, I went to work.
Each of these colors laid down smoothly and evenly on the
contours of each body panel. I applied three light coats of
each color.
I recommend trying this product on your next project.
Plastic spoons
have been a favorite
of many modelers to
get a feel for colors.

Alclads new white primer and scratch filler.
This primer lays down smooth, but I found it
to be somewhat thin, requiring about three
coats. But it did fill several small sanding
scratches and gave a smooth finish for the
Bright Silver Base Coat.
The Bright Silver Base Coat yields a beautiful
finish all by itself.
I played with air pressures and found
approximately 12 psi was perfect for an even,
smooth finish. This is Candy Violet.
In addition to the spoons, I wanted to also see
how these colors looked on various body
panels. This is Electric Blue.
Same procedure on a door panel, with Candy
Golden Yellow.
A trunk painted Candy Red.
Three coats of Candy Cobalt Blue
on a completed model.

The Revell 2010 Mustang GT 500 was a Christmas gift
from my son, to be built and compete against the rising
number of large-scale models being shown. The biggest
challenge was to make it realistic and not toylike.
The model took one year to complete, with almost every
part of the kit reworked or remade. Ideas and reference
came from several issues of Modified Mustangs & Fords
magazine. Rob Smorey
1/12 scale 2010 Mustang GT500
ONEGREATMODEL BY JIM HAUGHT
S
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.
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Scratchbuilt air
cleaner clamps
Machined
pulleys
RB Motion bolt
heads/washers

Scratchbuilt
hood pins

Machined
brake rotors

ABOUT ROB
SMOREY My
father was my
biggest modeling
influence. Got
heavily involved
in car modeling
during the early 1980s when
introduced to this magazine. I
am a member of Buckeye Scale
Model Club of Columbus, Ohio. I
enjoy going to shows and
hanging out with guys in the
modeling community. Currently
employed at Aerosport Modeling
and Design in Columbus, Ohio,
for the last 7+ years.
Scratchbuilt
exhaust
Scratchbuilt
drive shaft
Modified rear
bumper area
Scratchbuilt
roll bar
Hand-painted
redwalls
Two-part
urethane clear
Machined five-
spoke wheels
Reshaped
mirrors
Basecoat red metallic/
custom-mixed candy
with red and silver flake
Filled side windows
Door handles and
wipers removed

Building a
large-scale Enzo
Tamiyas 1/12 scale Ferrari Enzo has
unique challenges by MARK MELCHIORI
B
UILDING a large-scale kit such as the Enzo is both the
same and very different than building in a more
standard scale. Sometimes the size of a kit can be a bit
intimidating, and at times it can make it easier.
The biggest difference is the amount of space that is needed
because, well, the parts are just plain bigger.
One of the biggest areas that the size affected was painting.
I usually hold parts to be painted with alligator clips or
toothpicks. For this build, I used a lot of hemostats, and of all
things, wooden chopsticks to hold parts. A paint-mixing stick
with masking tape folded onto itself also proved useful.
The paint is another part of building large scale that can
bring up issues. To put it bluntly, you will need a lot of it!
Because of a couple of major issues, caused by me, I ended up
painting the body parts of my Enzo three times. My original
plan was to use Dupli-Colors relatively new Auto Shop
lacquer and clear. I did all of my bodywork and primed it with
Plastikote T235 gray sandable primer and wet sanded it. After
the color coats dried, I proceeded to color-sand it before
clearing it. It was then that I noticed that there was a reaction,
and the body had crazed. After stripping the paint and primer,
the body parts were sanded smooth (or so I thought) and
primed with Tamiya primer. This primer coat was wet sanded
and I painted them with Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red. After this
dried, I noticed that there were some rough spots in a mostly
flawless finish. I decided that a kit of this caliber needed to
have as good a paint job as possible, so I stripped paint job #2
off. This really took the wind out of my sails, and I decided to
take a break from the model for a while. Upon returning to it,
I repeated the repaint procedure and was satisfied with the
results. I ended up using two-and-a-half cans of Tamiya
primer and eight cans of Italian Red.
The moral of this story: never give up!
Again, because many of the parts are so large, the
opportunities to detail-paint them really can add to the
finished model. I did find that I had to use a larger-than-
normal paint brush for a lot of it. I also did quite a bit of
masking with tape on some parts to use spray cans for paint-
detailing.
My favorite part of the build was final assembly. After the
self-inflicted paint headache was over, final assembly was a
relative walk in the park. I did find connecting all of the vinyl
tubes and hoses to be a chore, but most of them are not visible
on the finished model.
A lot of the parts and most of the subassemblies are held
together with tiny screws and nuts. I was pleasantly surprised

The main chassis of the car is this very large
piece. One would think that a molded plastic
piece this large would have some warp to it;
not this one. It was straight as an arrow. As a
point of reference, I placed my 1/24 scale
Tamiya Enzo next to the 1/12 scale chassis.
There are a few parts of this kit that have to
be glued together. Here the engine/transaxle
assembly has been glued and clamped. I did
have to use some of my larger clamps to hold
the parts.
Because the parts of the kit are bigger, their
attachment point to the sprues are bigger, as
well. The bigger attachment points are a
necessity; they are actually the point through
which the molten plastic flows into the mold.
Instead of the usual sprue cutters, I found it
necessary to use a razor saw to remove many
of the parts from the sprues. Extreme care
had to be used to not remove any material
from the parts themselves.
In preparation for the first paint job, I wet-
sanded the body parts with 1000-grit
sandpaper. Because of the large surface area
on some of the parts, I used a foam block in an
attempt to keep a uniform finish.
The sanding process revealed a few low spots
and sink marks on the body parts that needed
to be dealt with. The spots stand out by being
shiny plastic compared to the sanded areas.
I used automotive spot putty to fill in the low
spots.
1 2 3
4 5 6
to find that Tamiya included more than a few extras of most
of them. I was worried that all of the ones that fell to my
floor, never to be seen again, would be needed to be found
somehow. I did have a small problem with overtightening
some of them and stripping the plastic. A dab of epoxy
rectified these situations and strengthened the assemblies.
All of the subassemblies were actually models of their own,
and I was excited to see the finished product. I then came to
the realization that if I broke or otherwise destroyed a part,
the build would come to a screeching halt. Nowhere was this
more obvious then when it came time to install the windows.
After carefully successfully cutting them from the tree with
a new razor saw with no cracks or flaws, they were masked for
painting their black borders. Luckily, the paint issues were
behind me, and after removing the masking, they were still
flawless. It was also lucky that very little adhesive was needed
to install them. In fact, the windshield is virtually a snap fit.
There were a couple of downers to final assembly, though.
First, I lost the magnet that is supposed to hold the trunk
closed. Second, the top sections of the doors did not fit flush
with the roof.
I could have tried to remedy this, but it looked as though I
might have to disassemble a lot of the model to do so. I will
display my model with the doors open and no one will know,
so dont tell anybody, OK?
I was pleased with the way the model turned out. The
amount of detail that can be packed into a large-scale kit is
amazing. You just have to prepare yourself for some of the
differences that building in a large scale can bring.
The Ferrari Enzo was built to celebrate the 60th
anniversary of the Ferrari Company. With its wild, cutting-
edge design and mind-boggling performance, the Enzo
has become an automotive icon for the 21st century.
Fujimi, Revell, and Tamiya have done 1/24 scale plastic
kits of the Enzo, and all are good.
This 653-piece monster of a kit is just about everything
that you would expect from Tamiya. From the working
suspension systems, the opening body panels, and the
detailed engine, this kit has all of the ingredients to be a
show-stopper.
The price tag may keep some modelers from buying it,
but those who do will not regret it. Mark Melchiori
BIG-SCALE ENZO

7 8 9
10 11 12
13 14 15
After cutting the rear bumper from the sprue,
I noticed small holes that were left behind.
They were not very deep, so I filled them with
Tamiya Gray liquid primer. It took two coats to
fill the holes, and it sanded down beautifully.
The suspension arms had some sizable mold
lines. I thought they might replicate casting
lines on the 1:1 cars parts, but research
proved this not to be the case, so the lines
needed to be removed. The rather hard metal
pieces needed to be filed smooth instead of
merely scraping them with a knife. A few quick
passes with a file netted a smoother surface.
A coat of metal primer and black paint made a
satisfactory replication of the 1:1 parts.
This is the trunk panel after stripping the first
paint job. You can see how the surface was
marred by the paint or primer reacting with
the plastic. It took two bouts of sanding,
priming, and painting to get a surface that I
was happy with.
Tamiya provides wire and vinyl tubing to mimic
the fluid lines and wiring of the 1:1 car. The
attachment points needed to be drilled out so
the wires and hoses would have more positive
mounting points for assembly.
The suspension arms are cast metal. I found
that I needed to drill the ends out to make
sure they were round and that the mounting
hardware would go through them without
binding.
While building 1/24 scale kits, I like to mount
some parts to the ends of toothpicks for
painting. Because of the sheer size of some of
the parts, this was not possible. A dinner trip
to a Chinese restaurant netted the idea of
using chopsticks to hold parts. As you can
see, they worked well!
For my usual 1/24 scale builds; I mount large
parts to a Tamiya paint stand or tape them to
the top of an old spray can. The sheer size of
many of the parts in this kit prevented some
of that. I had to build some of my own spray
fixtures. Sections of wood dowel and some
cable ties were used to build this one.
There were a lot of tiny screws used for
assembly. Some were only 2 millimeters long.
Luckily, they were steel, and Tamiya saw fit to
include a magnetized screwdriver. The
magnetism did start to wear off at times, but
setting the tip on a strong magnet on my
bench overnight seemed to recharge it.
Some of the assemblies require the builder to
hold a part in this case an upper suspension
mount and put a screw through a bracket or
suspension part. Not being three-handed, I
found it helpful to use a high-tech material
called duct tape to hold the large part while I
assembled the rest.

16 17 18
19 20
21 22
The piece of the undertray beneath the engine
on the 1:1 car is covered in insulation to help
manage the heat inside the engine
compartment. Here I have made a masking
tape template that follows the curvature of
the part.
Virtually every car built today has a black border around its windows.
For years, Tamiya has included window masks in their kits to help
replicate this border. I have always found them to fit perfectly, even if
it takes extreme care to get them on correctly. I always use black
enamel for this step, to prevent a hotter paint from eating through
the tape. Always remember to tape over the other side of the window
to prevent overspray.
This shot shows the masking that was done on the outside of the
engine cover. Be sure to burnish down all of the tape edges to prevent
any bleedthrough.
One part of the kit that I was not completely happy with was the self-
adhesive material provided for the seat belts. I found that they did not
want to stick to the seats as well as they should. I ended up using
white glue to get them to stay in position.
Here is the front of the chassis, with the front suspension installed.
You can see the maze of wires and hoses that need to be connected.
Some of them run the entire length of the car. It is too bad that most
of them cannot be seen on the finished model.
Here is the finished undertray with the
insulation imitated by bakers cake foil. The
complete how-to of this process is in the
October 2010 issue of Scale Auto.
One of the really nice things that Tamiya did
with this kit was molding an L and an R on
several parts. This helped greatly me in the
assembly process to get the correct parts on
the correct side of the car.

23 24
25 26 27
28 29
This shot of the rear of the chassis shows the engine, exhaust, and
suspension installed. I wanted to add a little visual interest to the
satin-chrome-plated exhaust system. I did this by fogging trnaslucent
orange and translucent blue paint from about 18 inches away until I got
a finish that I liked.
The kit included the fitted luggage that came from Ferrari with every
Enzo. It was molded in black vinyl that looked too shiny to me. Regular
hobby paint would never dry on the vinyl, so I brush-painted them with
acrylics. Silver enamel was used to pick out the hardware.
To add even more visual interest to some of
the parts, I decided to give them a black wash
to bring out some detail. I used the holder
from a used-up tea light candle as a mixing
bowl. I have found that two pipettes of enamel
thinner with 10 or 15 drops of flat black
enamel makes a good wash.
I use a pointed brush to transfer the wash to
the parts. Capillary action will draw the wash
from the brush. Let it flow naturally and you
should see good results. This can add more
definition to parts such as these wheel nuts.
Tamiya included these new to me, at least
3D stickers for the Ferrari badges on the body.
I was a little leery of them at first, but after
trimming them with a sharp scissors and
applying them to the body, I was happy with
the results.
Here is the completed engine bay. This is the view that I would want of the 1:1 car: drivers door open,
ready for a ride.

30 31 32
33 34
35 36
My least-favorite parts of the kit were the
turn signal and backup light lenses. The
mounting pin really ruins the effect of realism.
I will eventually replace these with some MV
lenses from the railroad section of my local
hobby shop.
Would anyone out there be brave enough to
take a ride with me? The hole in the side of
the chassis is the receptacle for the pin that
holds the door closed. This is one of the few
nonprototypical features of the kit. The hole
is not on the 1:1 car.
My favorite working feature of the kit is the
opening fuel door. It makes me want to open
the cap, put fuel in, and go. For the record,
the fuel cap is not removable!
The Cavalino Rampante 3-D emblem sticker looks good when
installed. I notice that I should have either painted the holes in the
brake disc flat black or even better, drilled them out.
This head-on shot shows the gap that remains when I close the
trunk. In an earlier step, I must have installed something just a bit
off. It was worse initially, but some tweaking here and there got it
better. It will stay this way, as I fear I would have to take the whole car
apart to find the cause of the problem.
This rear view shows some of the realism possible in a large-scale kit.
Being able to see through the mesh material and the metal exhaust
tips adds to the illusion that you might be looking at a 1:1 car. But I lost
the prancing horse emblem that is supposed to be at the center of
the rear grille.
I had a real problem with the fit of the doors when they are closed.
They fit perfectly during test-fitting, but at final assembly time they
fit this poorly. I am guessing that when all of the inner door parts are
assembled to the outer skin, they get thrown out of whack somehow. I
have seen this with other samples of this kit that I have seen built.

WEATHERING M
Make
rusted
bodywork
using armor
modeling
techniques

MADE EASY
R
EVELLS recent reissue of the old GMC pickup truck with
snowplow option is a great kit with lots of potential.
Finished with a nice gloss paint job and bright chrome, it can
be built showroom fresh. Or with some imagination, and some
techniques borrowed from the armor modelers, it can be built into a
road-weary, rusted-out workhorse. That was the option I went for.
At first glance it may seem difficult to duplicate convincing rusted
bodywork. But with the right steps, and the right products, its not as
hard as it may look.
Although these steps will transform this truck into a veteran of
many plowed snowy roads, the following steps can easily be applied to
any auto subject that is rusted out, or left to rot in some barn. So grab
a kit, some imagination, and lets dive into some rust!
Clay Kemps GMC
snowplow depicts a
road-weary, rusted-
out workhorse.
by CLAY KEMP

2
3 4
5 6
When the plastic is so thin it is almost translucent, switch to a smaller
grinding bit. Slowly open the holes in a random pattern. Light pressure
is needed so that you are still removing material, not melting it.
The same thinning is done to the middle and lower parts of the rear
fenders. Work slowly, checking progress frequently to make sure you
dont grind all the way through just yet.
A hobby knife can also be used to cut some of the thin material away to
show rougher edges of the openings.
On the outside, the small bit is lightly tapped along the upper
character line to show some corroded areas that havent rusted all the
way through the metal yet.
When the cab and fenders have been sufficiently ground away, it is time
for primer. Because Ill be using all acrylic paints on the body, I used an
acrylic primer from Vallejo. A lacquer primer will also work fine.
The first step to rotting away the lower portions of the body is to thin
the plastic from the inside. Using a ball grinder in a motor tool, make
light passes back and forth to reduce the thickness of the doors and
rocker panels.
1

After all of the dark and light rust tones have been applied and dried,
the body panels received two coats of hair spray, directly from the can.
Try to keep each coat even and light, and dont allow it to pool in any
areas.
The blade is also undercoated with a Tamiya color, XF-9 Hull Red, for a
slightly different shade. It is then coated with two coats of hair spray
from the can as well.
With the hair spray dry, the base yellow can be airbrushed on. A
random coat is applied. Light in some areas to show wear, and heavier
in other areas to simulate the factory finish that hasnt been worn
away as much.
7
To show the rusted areas, a technique called the hair spray method,
popular in armor modeling, will be used. First step is to apply a rusty
base color; in this case, Tamiya XF-10, Flat Brown. After it dries, sponge
on a brighter rust tone, using an old sponge and some Lifecolor Light
Shadow Rust. Keep it random, and just add enough to break up all of
the darker area.
The lighter color is just lightly tapped on over the dark base to give it
some depth and different tones. Tap the sponge in the paint, then
remove the excess on some paper, then lightly apply it to the fender.
Now comes the fun part. With a flat brush and some tap water, gently
wet the surface of the yellow paint. After the water sits for a minute or
two, the hair spray under the yellow will start to dissolve and can be
rubbed away, taking the yellow paint with it. Work slowly, area by area,
and try to make the chipped yellow pieces look as realistic as possible.
8
9 10
11 12

AKs Naval White enamel wash, along with more of the light rust, was
applied to the hood. The white helps to break up all of the blue on the
hood, and to simulate the faded, salt-covered areas. A brush wet with
white spirit can be used to soften the effect, and streak the colors.
In the larger, more open areas of the roof rust patches, oil paint was
used to add more contrast. Two different shades are dabbed on, then
blended around with white spirit. This helps to show different levels of
corrosion in the rusty roof areas.
On the sides, more light rust streaking was applied, using the light rust
wash. Using the chipped darker areas as a guide, the streaks are gently
pulled down. If any streaks dry too dark, they can be gone over with
more white spirit to soften the effect.
To simulate heavy snow buildup on the blade, well mix a concoction of
several ingredients in a disposable paper cup: plaster powder, fine
sand, and AKs Naval white enamel. You want a fairly clumpy mixture,
but not so dry that it wont stick. If its too thick, add a small amount
of water or more white enamel. If its too thin, add more plaster.
14
15 16
17 18
The cab was painted a pale blue, using Tamiya X-2 White and X-14 Blue.
It was chipped and streaked as well, using the same method as the
other parts.
The rear fenders were painted with a mixture of X-2 White and XF-55
Deck Tan to make a slightly dingy off-white color. When it was dry, it
was wetted and chipped like the blade in the previous steps, revealing
the rusty base below. After the chipping is complete, a light staining of
rust can be applied using AK Interactives Light Rust Wash. This is
stained all around the chipped areas, as well as streaked, to simulate
the rust running down the fender sides.
13

After its mixed, the white paste is slowly pushed onto the lower areas
of the blade. All it takes is a dabbing motion to push it around, and get
it placed to look effective.
19
As the snow mixture starts to set up, the upper portions can be gently
faded up with a brush dampened in white spirit. Use a soft motion to
slowly work some streaks up, and soften the top edge.
The basic subassemblies after all of the weathering has been
completed. These can be set aside, and the rest of the truck can be
assembled.
The final touches were on the bumpers. AKs brown chipping acrylic
paint was sponged and brushed on to show surface rust on the
bumpers. After it dried, more light rust stains were added.
20
22
24
21
23
The bed was assembled, and more weathering was applied to the inside.
A mixture of fine sand and different colors of weathering pigments
were all built up in the corners. White pigments were used on top to
simulate a light dusting of snow.
After the chrome rails were added, more faint rust streaks were
applied. A small dot of rust oil color was applied, then gently streaked
down.

CLASSICKITS BY TIM BOYD
C
OOL! Thats what I thought when
the AMT 1965 Dodge Coronet 500
kit showed up at my local hobby
store. My favorite model kit
manufacturer in those days had finally
decided to do a kit of a Dodge car.
But all was not as it seemed. It was
actually one of several kits introduced
that year that wore the AMT label on
the box art, but were designed and
manufactured by the newcomer on the
other side of town: Model Products
Corporation, or MPC for short.
The kit certainly sounded good,
based on the box art. It had a decal
sheet full of Dodges famous
Ramchargers markings; the engine was
Dodges new 426 Hemi (one of the first
to appear in a scale kit); and it had an
optional 6-71 supercharger with an
Owl Eyes blower hat.
Upon opening the kit, the positive
impression continued. It had among the
best five-spoke mags yet in an annual
kit. The interior was cast with a separate
rear seat, allowing the builder to omit it
and retain a realistic interior for Stock
drag-racing classes.
At the time, I just didnt understand
why there was an optional exhaust
system with a single pipe from the
headers to a crossover muffler tucked
behind the rear bumper. And it didnt
cross my mind that the 426 Hemi engine
the only engine in the kit was not
available from the factory on stock 1965
Coronet 500s.
We now know that Chrysler had
engineered and built 101 order code
W051 1965 Coronet factory drag racers,
each powered by the A990 dual four-
barrel/cross ram induction drag racing
adaptation of the NASCAR 426 Hemi.
As the instructions stated, this
engine is the 426 Hemi Charger, used by
the Ramchargers. In fact, the kits
competition version replicates much
of the WO51/A990 car, including the
hood scoop, engine, and that funny
exhaust system. The key difference is
that MPCs model used the top-of-the-
line Coronet 500 two-door hardtop; the
real W051 cars were based on a
decontented base Coronet two-door.
Regrettably, this annual kit was never
reissued. The chassis (with a minor
revision to the gas tank area) and engine
carried over to MPCs 1966 Dodge
Charger kit, but the body and interior
tools disappeared.
The unique history and composition
of this kit make it among the most
desirable of all 1/25 scale Mopar
collectibles, and the current price for a
mint unbuilt example reflects that
desirability.
MPC 1965 Dodge Coronet 500
Kit No. 6025-150
Introduced: 1965
Reissued: Never (annual kit)
Present value: $225 (mint/
unbuilt)
MPC 1965 Dodge Coronet 500

P
Youll nd hundreds of step-by-step photos
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THE LATEST release in the Legends of
the Quarter Mile series, the Tommy
Grove Mustang Funny car is a modified
reissue of the earlier Gas Ronda kit.
The new decal sheet is nicely done, with
crisp printing and good color
registration.
Parts are molded in an ivory color,
with two trees of chrome-plated parts.
Clear parts are bagged separately and
are scratch-free, although they appear to
be fairly thick. Rear slicks are two-piece
and feature pad-printed M&H
Racemaster lettering.
The Ford 427 SOHC engine is
comprised of 27 parts and offers the
option of an Enderle or Hilborn-style
intake for the top of the blower.
Molded detail is generally good. Test-
fitting parts here is a must, as overall fit
is not good. I had to remove nearly all
of the alignment pins and eyeball the
parts to get them matched up.
I had to notch the front cover to
make clearance for the right-side
cylinder head. The instructions are a bit
vague in the placement of the magneto,
and even show the completed assembly
with Hemi heads. The blower drive belt
is a separate piece; a nice touch, but
mine was pretty distorted, so I replaced
it with black masking tape.
It does build up into a pretty nice
replica; it just takes a bit of work.
The chassis is also a bit of a challenge
to assemble. The fit of the cross-
members to the side rails isnt precise, so
they tend to flop around a little during
assembly.
The exploded-view style instructions
here too are vague with placement of
some of the components. Looking
ahead in the steps will help clarify a few
of the locations.
The header supports were too short
to reach, so were left off. The interior
floor, sheet aluminum on the 1:1 car, will
require a lot of sanding to remove the
rough texture of the mold.
There are three front wheel styles and
two rear wheel styles. Front tires have
good detail on sidewall and tread.
The body captures the look of the
Mustang Funny Car well. There are
some seam lines to contend with, but
they cleaned up fairly easily. 1969 and
1970 front ends are included, and fit is
good. Fit of the rear bumper needed
only slight tweaking. I found it easiest to
install the inside tinwork individually,
starting with the firewall, then interior
top, and working down from there.
There is no decal-placement guide, so
reference will be necessary for locating
some of the contingency decals.
I am far from an expert on drag cars.
Its been many years since Ive built one,
and some of the problems I had may
have been self-inflicted.
All in all, I think it came out pretty
well, although Im a bit surprised by the
amount of issues I had with the build.
It has the potential for a great model,
but the amount of work to correct fit
problems left me disappointed.
This one is probably better left for an
experienced builder. Mike Klessig
Polar Lights Tommy Grove Mustang
KITREVIEWS
Tommy Grove Mustang
Polar Lights No. 852/12
Model Type: Injection-molded
styrene
Molded Colors: Ivory, clear
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: $24.99
Pros: Nice new decal sheet; body
captures Funny Car look well
Cons: Quite a few fit issues; no
guide for decal placement

Hasegawa Yamaha YZR500
HASEGAWA has produced a winner
with this 1/12 scale bike kit. This is a
replica of the 1988 World Grand Prix
Champ bike ridden by Eddie Lawson.
There are several trees molded in
white and medium-gray plastic. The
molding and detail is incredible. There
are even very finely molded linkages for
the carburetors and other components.
Care needs to be taken when cutting
these parts from the trees because they
are so delicate.
The race slicks have no mold marks
down the centers to remove, which is a
big plus. There are a few long screws for
the fork and both axles, along with clear
and black vinyl tubing.
The decal sheet is printed by
Cartograf.
The first step in the well-illustrated
instructions is building the 500cc two-
stroke power plant. It assembles well
with minimal cleanup. Hasegawa
provides good color charts to make sure
the engine looks accurate. Be prepared
to mix some colors to get the correct
shades of steel and titanium.
The most impressive part of the bike
is the frame. It has all of the appropriate
weld marks and inserts for the inside of
the frame to make it appear solid.
The instructions show the engine
being installed while putting the frame
halves together, but it will go in after
frame assembly.
The radiator mounts to the front of
the frame. The radiator hose and
overflow bottles were a bit tricky to
install around the engine, but fit well
when in place.
The rear swing arm is another
impressive piece. It is halves that are
hollow on the inside. After the rear tires
are installed, you do not see that the
frame is hollow.
The drive chain is finely molded, and
when painted and detailed, looks like an
aftermarket piece. The rear brakes go
together with ease, and look extremely
realistic.
The rear mono shock has a real
spring that needs to be painted. Despite
it being a metal spring, the suspension is
not functional. The rear swing arm slips
into place and is held to the frame with
a long screw. Plastic molded nuts cover
the screw heads.
Hasegawa provides a Late type
reverse or Early type normal fork
setup. I chose the early type setup for my
build. I used Bare-Metal foil to cover the
hard steel polished tubes on the upper
portion of the forks. The front brake
discs were a bit tricky to paint because
they were all one piece, but looked
convincing when complete. Leave the
calipers until last, or the rotor and wheel
assembly will not fit.
The handlebars are delicate, yet push
into their mounts hard, so be careful
you do not snap off the bars. I added a
bit more glue in conspicuous areas to
reinforce them from snapping off later.
Hasegawa provides all of the computer
and sensor boxes, which makes detailing
these areas easy.
I had to route the vinyl tubing
through various areas to hook up for the
clutch and brake lines. The tubing is a
little narrow in the center, so do not
push too hard or you can break off the
mounting points easily.
The tins fit tight, but snug and flush.
The clear windshield did not require any
gluing, because it snaps right into place.
This is one of the best race bike kits I
have built. Hasegawa really did its
research on this one. I highly
recommend this kit to an experienced
modeler. Dave Thibodeau
Yamaha YZR500
Hasegawa No. 21503
styrene
Molded Colors: White, gray, clear
Scale: 1/12
MSRP: $74.99
Pros: Molding and detail; decals;
no mold seams on slicks; impres-
sive frame
Cons: Delicate parts can be
damaged easily

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ARNIE The Farmer Beswick is the
famous drag racer from a small farming
town in Illinois, whose extraordinary
success in drag racing has made him a
legend to four generations of fans.
Not only is Arnie the most well-
known Pontiac drag racer in the world,
his continuous series of Pontiac Super
Stocks, Funny Cars, and nostalgia door
slammers has made him an undisputed
fan favorite for more than 40 years.
This kit is an old MPC repop from
the early 1970s. The kit contains a
comprehensive instruction sheet, which
includes a supplement/addendum sheet
for step 5. Ill discuss this further when
we cover chassis components.
The engine assembly is 16 pieces that
go together easily, with no real
problems. The finished engine looks
somewhat simple and a bit small for a
Funny Car from the era.
The chassis is comprised of 19 pieces,
which include the engine mount
bulkhead, front and rear suspension,
front axle, and all steering components.
As mentioned earlier, the supplement
sheet shows an additional part tail
stock to be added to the rear of the
transmission, because the driveshaft did
not reach the existing transmission.
After adding this part, however, I found
the driveshaft to be too long. You may
want to test-fit these parts and make
adjustments before gluing.
The rear end contains five pieces,
which include traction-bar mounts. Test-
fit these parts, as I had to make several
adjustments to get the suspension and
rear end to line up properly.
The cockpit is made up of 13 pieces
that include a four-piece roll cage.
When assembling the roll cage, be sure
to have the floor pan of the cockpit on
hand to keep things lined up.
Make sure to test-fit the cockpit to
the chassis. My copy had some fit issues
here. I had to trim the rear of the
cockpit floor to drop it in place.
The wheelie bars have no set
mounting locations, other than on either
side of the rear axle, and to me, they
looked a bit large and out of scale.
The 1969 GTO body needs a little
work. You will need to sand off or fill in
the scripts, door handles, marker lights,
etc. to best represent the GTO Funny
Car body.
The body consists of nine total pieces,
which include the front air dam, rear
bumper with translucent red taillights,
grill, three piece spoiler, a nice three-
piece Funny Car bulkhead, and the
option of clear or translucent orange
windows, and parachute pack.
The rear bumper on my copy had
gaps on each side of the bumper. This
could be easily fixed with styrene strips
or your favorite filler.
The tires and wheels are nicely
molded, and they are accurate for the
era. Also included is a nice set of
preprinted M&H Racemaster slicks for
the rear end.
Although Funny Cars and many
other rods of the era sat a little high in
the back end, this one sits considerably
high that I recall, so you may want to
make adjustments to the bulkhead to
correct the stance.
The decal sheet includes decals for
two versions of the Super Judge. I found
the decals to be opaque and to lay down
smoothly without the use of my usual
setting solution.
Despite a number of fit frustrations,
the Super Judge looks nice on the shelf.
For the vintage drag racing fan, it is
worth the time spent to have this historic
car in your collection.
Mark Batson
1969 GTO Super Judge
MPC No. MPC784
styrene
Molded Colors: White, clear, trans-
lucent orange, red
Scale: 1/25
MSRP: $21.99
Pros: Great decals; accurate tires
and rims
Cons: Simplified kit with a number
of fit problems
MPC 1969 GTO Super Judge

REVELLS REISSUE of this model
helps commemorate the 60th
anniversary of Harley Earls 1953
Corvette.
This kit includes a comprehensive
instruction sheet that has a brief history
of the Corvette, and a highly detailed
paint-and-parts guide that makes up the
first three pages.
There are parts for the 1953 and 1954
straight six-cylinder engines. The 1953 is
comprised of nine parts and three
decals, and the 1954 has ten parts.
The engines go together with no fit
issues. Youll need to use your favorite
filler to eliminate the seam line in the oil
pan and lower transmission.
The completed engine is accurate and
gives a cool look to the engine bay.
The front suspension is comprised of
six pieces that attach to the chassis with
no fit problems.
The exhaust system is molded into
the main chassis, so you will need to add
the two-piece mufflers to the exhaust
pipes. Although the fit is clean, there is a
seam line in the front and back of the
mufflers that you may need to fill.
The drive train and rear suspension
are made up of seven pieces, and they
almost fall into place.
The tires are vinyl, with a separate
wide whitewall insert. The outer rim of
the chrome hubcap should be red in
color. Revell did an outstanding job
helping the modeler by including a red
ring decal that fits perfectly. The tires
fit to the suspension and drivetrain
beautifully, with no problems.
The stance on my copy was level on
all four corners, and required no
adjusting. The exhaust manifold and
extension line up to the chassis exhaust
pipes without any adjustments.
The interior is made up of eight
pieces, which includes the underhood
inside fender wells.
The separate inside door panels and
dash make for easy detailing. There are
seven dash decals that look great and fit
all gauges perfectly.
The body consists of 26 total pieces,
which includes all chrome multipiece
bumpers, clear parts, hood, and hinge.
Be prepared to do a lot of sanding on
the exterior of the body. Mold lines run
the length of the body on either side, as
well as on the front and back.
The upper portion of the dash is
molded to the body, so you will need to
mask for painting in this area. Each part
fits to the body smoothly, with no fit
issues.
The body and chassis mate together
tightly, with no gaps.
The tires were centered in the wheel
wells perfectly, with no adjustment.
This kit is a great representation of
the first Corvette and would be a great
addition for the vintage car or Corvette
enthusiast. Despite the age of the
molds, this kit went together well.
Mark Batson
1953 Corvette roadster
Revell No. 85-4057
styrene
Molded Colors: White, clear, black
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: $22.96
Pros: Accurate; great parts fits
throughout, nice tires
Cons: Dash molded to body; abun-
dance of mold lines on body
Revell 1953 Corvette roadster

FUJIMI HAS blessed us sports car
racing aficionados with several of the
current contestants in GT3 competition.
This is a curbside kit, although there is
some engine detail visible through the
rear window.
Body parts are molded in white,
chassis and interior are molded in black,
and there is a small tree of chrome-
plated parts, for a total of 98 pieces. All
trees are bagged separately. Also
included is a templated mask for the
window trim, but it is not diecut.
The chassis plate is pretty much a flat
plate with the front and rear lower
suspension arms molded in place. The
rear diffuser is well done, with the vanes
molded nice and thin. Inner wheel wells
and upper suspension arms are separate
pieces and practically snap into place.
The front wheels are poseable, and
the fit of the pins is precise so be
cautious of paint buildup in the holes.
The brake calipers and discs are
individual parts.
The wheels have good molded hub
detail and even include the valve stems.
The rubber slick tires are well molded,
with minimal seams to clean up. Dry
transfers for the Michelin logos are
provided, thankfully with a couple of
spares in case you mess one up, as I did.
The interior starts with a basic tub for
the cockpit and engine bay. Electronic
boxes and foot pedals are molded into
the interior floor along with some center
console switch detail.
The roll cage is a five-part assembly
and is a little bit fiddly; some of the
mounting pins are small. Its probably
easiest to use the interior tub as a fixture
during assembly to assure that
everything stays straight and properly
aligned.
The seat and fire suppression bottle
are the only other parts to the basic
interior. Both are well done but the seat
could use some belts to dress it up.
The dashboard is six pieces and
features good molded detail, but will
need some detail painting to really finish
it off.
The upper portion of the engine is
molded into the tub, and although its
pretty well molded, it makes masking
and painting a bit of a chore; there are
some small nooks and crannies. A
separate part would have made things
much easier.
The body is by far the most complex
part of the model. The main body is
three pieces, with the door panels and
lower rear quarters ahead of the wheels
being separate from the upper body. My
guess is this simplifies the mold and
makes it easier to produce the deep
coves on the sides of the car. The
intricate intake ducting on the sides of
the car is four pieces, and fit here is
nearly perfect.
I wish they would have made a
separate taillight section and front
grilles, just to make painting a little
easier. The grilles in the front do have a
scribe line on the inside of the body,
making me believe there will be a
photoetched detail set in the future.
The only tweaks I made in the body
were to open up the holes for the tow
hooks, and I drilled and pinned the
mirrors for support.
The windshield and side windows are
molded together and snap into place,
although it was a tight fit.
The decals are well printed and are
thin, but cover well. Finish is a little on
the dull side, so a clear coat is probably
in order. I had no ill effects using
Testors clear lacquer over them.
The build went extremely well
throughout, and makes a great-looking
replica of one of todays hottest race
cars. Mike Klessig

McLaren MP4/12C GT3
Fujimi No. 12555
styrene
Molded Colors: White, black, clear
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: $59.95
Pros: Parts fit; tires molded well
Cons: Roll cage assembly a bit
fiddly; upper portion of engine
molded into tub
Fujimi McLaren MP4/12C GT3

This is a grand accent to the Moebius
Lonestar kit and its upcoming Prostar
kit. It can be assembled with or without
reefer, raised or lowered gear, and even
has two decal options.
The first thing that gets your
attention when you open the box is the
length of this trailer! Before adding the
reefer, and of course, a truck to pull it,
this thing takes up a lot of shelf space.
The instructions start off with
assembling the trailer box. The front
bulkhead and the back wall containing
the door are chrome. It is suggested to
fully assemble the box, then mask and
paint. Not knowing how well the
chrome would stay put, I chose to paint
the parts separately. I now believe the
chrome would hold up quite well,
despite a less-than-stellar chrome job on
the rear doors. Other than a few sink
marks in the sidewalls, the only other
disappointment is that the rear doors do
not open.
The Hendrickson air-ride slider
suspensions slider frame assembly
comes molded as one piece. My first
thoughts were that it looked really bulky
and simplified, but upon closer
completion, it is really a nice unit. 38
pieces make up the suspension.
The wheels are also chrome and
assemble quickly. While completing the
undercarriage, I discovered a few parts
numbers that were wrongly assigned,
but they were easy to figure out.
The kit also comes with both large
and small king pins, with no explanation
as to how to choose one over the other.
With the air reservoir tank in place, the
suspension cannot slide. All lights came
molded clear, and have to be painted
according to their location.
What I thought was going to be the
star of the kit, the modern reefer unit, is
a simplified three-piece unit. But after
painting and assembling, I relaized that
three pieces are plenty. The lack of
decals for the reefer should be
addressed.
There are three large sheets of decals,
including the reflector stripes down the
sides and back, and nearly every
warning label you could imagine.
I did run into some mold-release
issues, so wash all the parts in a mild
detergent before painting.
Assembly went smoothly and the
trailer looks incredibly convincing. If
you are into modern trucks, this kit is a
must-have! David Mars
Moebius trailer with reefer option
Trailer with reefer option
Moebius No. 1302
styrene
Molded Colors: White, clear, black
Scale: 1/25
MSRP: $59.95
Pros: Easy assembly; beautiful
decals; nice modern subject.
Cons: Sink marks; poor plating on
fixed rear doors; lack of decals for
reefer.

DURING the 1960s, the 1941 Willys
Coupe was synonymous with drag
racing, with its big engines and light
weight, these cars were hard to beat.
The kit comes with the mighty 392
Hemi engine with a Roots-style blower
planted between its massive cylinder
heads. All this is attached to a 727
Torqueflite automatic transmission.
This engine/transmission combination is
beautifully rendered.
Following the build through the
intuitive instruction sheet, the next area
would be the interior, consisting of 12
pieces. The floor and center console are
molded as one piece, so a little masking
would be in order to separate colors for
a two-tone colored interior.
Seats are two-piece units that require
some seam filling along their edges.
The rest of the interior consists of the
side and rear panels, dash, steering
column with a wing-design steering
wheel, race-style pedals, and chrome
shifter. It was simple to build and looks
the part of a modern street rod.
The chassis has a six-piece four-link
rear suspension with Ford 9-inch rear
end and coil-over shocks built as an unit
before installing into the ladder-type
chassis rails, along with the race-
inspired fuel filters.
The six-piece front suspension is
rendered nicely and is relatively accurate
for a rod of this type. At this stage you
will also install the exhaust and disk
brakes.
The wheels and tires represent a pro
street approach with massive Mickey
Thompson sportsman tires out back
and no-name skinnys up front. The big-
and-little two-piece Halibrand-style
wheels look really nice and give the car a
nice race-inspired stance.
Installation of the engine is
straightforward, with positive mounting
points.
The two-piece body is clean and only
required minimal cleanup of some mold
lines. For this build I used a color by
VHT called Fire Red with a DuPont
urethane clearcoat to bring out the shine
and accentuate the curves of this
beautiful machine.
The glass was nice and clear, with no
distortion, installing from the inside
really giving the windows a clean look,
All exterior chrome was clear of
blemishes, and most of the mounting
points for the sprue were small and
required only minimal touchup with foil
or silver paint.
The only chrome piece that did not
look right after cleanup was the scoop; I
decided to color-key it to the body.
The decal sheet comes with some
uniquely colored flames, three license
plates, hot rod, street rod, and
supercharged scripts, blower belt, fuel
pump markings, and gauges. The only
decals I used from the sheet were the
blower belt, fuel pump, and gauges.
The gauges are not applied to the
dash, but are mounted from behind. I
used a little Pledge with Future Shine
floor finish to mount the gauges, and I
filled the bezels with some clear epoxy
to simulate glass.
Final assembly was easy and
straightforward, with no complications.
Although its listed as a Skill Level 2
kit, I would recommend the Monogram
1941 Willys street rod to everyone: the
young novice builder who wants to step
up from snap kits; the experienced
builder who wants a really nice, clean kit
to start their next creation, with ease of
assembly and good fit and finish; or a
great starting point for that shelf model
or contest build ... get this kit and you
will enjoy it. Tom Valenta
Monogram 1941 Willys Street Rod
1941 Willys street rod
Monogram No. 85-4909
styrene
Scale: 1/25
MSRP: $23.99
Pros: Excellent fit; nice wheels
and tires; great intuitive instruc-
tions
Cons: Sprue mounting points on
scoop

ROUND 2 has released yet another
little treasure with the Opel GT,
originally released in the early 1970s.
The kit comes in a flat box with a
cool drawing of the Opel in a yellow
street-machine version, which looks
quite attractive. I hear there is a yellow
plastic version, but the one I am
reviewing is the white plastic version.
The buzz around the kit is that it
offers quite a few extra goodies like a
cool set of tampo-printed Polyglas GT
tires, an extra hood, and six aluminum
velocity stacks to be used on the
optional Buick V-6.
There are four ways you can build this
kit: stock, custom, street rod, and drag.
Included are two different engine blocks;
one is a 1.9-liter four-cylinder inline
engine, and the other a Buick V-6.
The instructions show 15 parts for the
stock/custom version and 30 parts for
the street rod/ drag version. You are
encouraged to build a drag race version
using the V-6 fan belt and drag-race-
style fuel pump, but you would need the
supercharger, and this is not included in
the kit. I decided to go with the street
rod V-6 engine.
The interior consists of 13 parts, as
per the instructions, but this is if you
want to build the three-piece roll cage
that is usually used on the drag version.
It is quite simple and includes two
bucket-style seats. There is also the small
shifter and the hand brake. Everything
fits together well.
You get four rally-style wheels, four
stock wheels, and four Moon-style
wheels. You can only use the Moon-style
wheels on the drag slicks or the tampo-
printed tires. I decided to use the Moon-
style wheels and tampo-printed tires, but
not before modifying them to fit into the
body a little better. I thought it looked
rather toyish without this alteration.
There are five versions for the chassis
you can opt for when building the kit.
You get the stock, drag, rally, custom
and street rod. There are approximately
twenty parts for these options included
in the kit. At the end, metal axles are
utilized to hold the wheels and tires and
there are multiple options for the
exhaust phase of the build, this of
course dependent on which style you
chose to finish your model.
The body shell looks great; it looks
like a small 1970s-style Corvette. The
molding around the windows was faint,
so I decided to rescribe it to make it
easier to add Bare-Metal foil. You also
get the option of three hoods. You
might have to do a little sanding on the
hood and cowl area to improve the fit.
The emblems and Opel logos are
crisp, and if you go light on the paint,
they will be pretty noticeable. I decided
to use Bare-Metal foil on the letters
before adding paint, and expose them at
the end after the model was painted.
Other options for the body include a
gas tank and front spoiler for the drag/
custom version, and a custom grille.
The chrome parts tree looks good and
evenly plated, though I thought some
parts had slightly heavy mold lines.
The glass was packed in a separate
bag, and it was free from scratches, but
there is some heavy flash that has to be
removed on the sides.
I thought it would have been better to
have all the tampo-printed tires offered
in the same size, but it looks quite nice
and unique when completed.
The chassis-to-body fit went well
something I am always skeptical about
when building these reissued kits.
I had a lot of fun building this kit. Go
out and get one. I guarantee you will
enjoy it as much as I did. Marcos Cruz
Round 2 Opel GT
Opel GT
AMT No. AMT835/12
styrene
Scale: 1/25
MSRP: $24.99
Pros: Extra parts; tampo-printed
tires.
Cons: Flash on some parts; no
positive engine-mounting points
on V-6 option.

PARNELLI JONES
MUSTANG BUILDUP
Building the Legends
by Dave Thibodeau
1959 CHEVY
IMPALA
Upgrade a basic kit
by Rod Maskiw
YOUNG AMERICAN
Expanded kit review
by Tim Boyd
PORTFOLIO:
ART LASKI
So Cal modeler loves
race cars
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COMING EVENTS
AL, HUNTSVILLE: Huntsville Plastic Modelers Society 37th
Annual Model Show. Jaycees Community Building, 2180 Airport
Road. October 5, 2013. 8:00am-4:00pm. Free admission. Model
Registration: $10 1st model, $2 ea additional, $2 IPMS discount,
$1/model for 16 and under. Vendor tables $25. Vendor Info: Phil
Cassibry, 256-656-9624, vendors@hpmsonline.org. General info:
http://www.hpmsonline.org
GA, SMYRNA: ACME 18th Annual NNL Style Model Show
& Swap Meet. Smyrna Community Center, 200 Village Green
Circle SE. Saturday, November 9, 2013, 10:00am-4:00pm.
Info at www.acme-ipms.com E-mail for vendor information at
vendorinfo@acme-ipms.com Make it, Take it scheduled. Ad-
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vendor table.
IL, WHEATON: 62nd Illinois Plastic Kit & Toy Show. DuPage
County Fairgrounds, 2015 W. Manchester Road. Septem-
ber 22, 2013, 9:00am-3:00pm. Adults $5.00, children under
12 years $2.00. 150 tables available. Past-Time Hobbies, Inc.
630-969-1847.
MI, WARREN: Detroit Area Auto Modelers Club present
their 47th Model Car and Toy Show, Motor City N.N.L. #9,
Macomb Community College Sport and Expo Center, 12 Mile
and Hayes Road. November 24, 2013, 9:00am-3:00pm. Ad-
mission $5.00, under 12 free. Model cars, toys, collectibles.
Information: 586-344-9496 between 9:00am-9:00pm Website:
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NY, POUGHKEEPSIE: HVHMG 2013, Celebrating 27 years,
Elks Club Lodge, Overocker Rd. October 19, 2013. Sponsored
by IPMS Mid-Hudson. Registration 9:00am-noon. More infor-
mation at: www.HVHMG.com or contact John Gallagher at:
845-462-4740 or ggallagherjoh@optonline.net
OH, KIRTLAND: Diecast Collectible Toy and Model Show,
Lakeland Community College (AFC Aux Gym), 7700 Clock-
tower Dr., I-90 & Rt. 306. November 9, 2013, 9:00am-2:00pm.
Adults $6.00 each, Children $2.00 (6-12). 216-470-5780,
www.cleveshows.com
PA, PITTSBURGH: Three Rivers Automodelers Annual Mod-
el Show & Contest. Castle Shannon Volunteer Fire Hall, 3600
Library Road. Sunday, September 29, 2013. 9:00am-3:00pm
Admission: $5.00, under 12 free w/adult. Floor rights: $13.00
@ 8:00am. Theme: Orphan Cars. Contest registration: $1 ea./
model. Contact: Don Bishop 724-864-4905 6:00-10:00pm EST.
VA, ROANOKE: 2013 IPMS Region 2 Convention, sponsored
by Roanoke Valley IPMS, Roanoke Civic Center. October 18-
19, 2013, 9:00am-9:00pm. Over 85 model categories, includ-
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demos, speakers, Rafe, Make-N-Take, and more. Contact
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PLASTIC FOR SALE
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SEND $1 FOR MODEL CAR LIST TO: 63 Robert St.,
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1966 Mustang kit AMT original also 1962 Thunderbird hardtop
kit.
PLASTIC WANTED
IMMEDIATE PAYMENT for your unbuilt or built mod-
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FRANKLIN AND DANBURY MINT DIECAST CAR
COLLECTIONS Pocher, Aurora, Revell, Monogram model kit
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the nest in 1/25 and 1/16 scale detaling parts at
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MISCELLANEOUS FOR SALE
50 YEAR MODEL COLLECTION Extensive collection of
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TOYS WANTED
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MONOGRAM 1/24 MIDGET SLOT CARS AND HOT
SHOT MODEL KITS. Complete cars, parts, boxes, instruc-
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Asheboro NORTH CAROLINA
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e-mail: znzhobbies@lexcominc.net
336-249-6127
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Lexington NORTH CAROLINA
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Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com
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TOP SHELF MODELS

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Owasso OKLAHOMA
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503-644-4535
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Beaverton OREGON
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11364 Parkside Dr.
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Scale model cars, armor, aircraft, diecast.
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156-F FM 1960 East
Houston TEXAS

Come see our new, spacious location.
Large selection of new & out-of-production
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Toronto CANADAON
Hobby Shop Directory
Hobby Shop Directory listings are available for the next six issues for $141 (payable
in advance) or at $28 per issue (billed to established accounts for a minimum of
six insertions). Ads will be set in standard listing typography. All insertions must be
consecutive and may be invoiced if you have credit established with us. No mention of
mail order business permitted. For information call 1-888-558-1544, ext 815.
CLOSING DATES: Feb. 2013 closes Nov. 9, April closes Jan. 15, June closes Mar. 12,
Aug. closes May 13, Oct. closes July 16, Dec. closes Sept. 17.

FINISHLINE BY JENNY MAASKE
R
uben Davila built this 1955
Chrysler 300 from a
Moebius kit. He opened the
trunk, scratchbuilt the hinges,
and used aftermarket wheels.
The nine-month project is
finished with Model Master
Green Go and Silver lacquer.
I
t was my favorite car
growing up, says Alex
Hague about his Porsche 911
GT2, which he built from a
Fujimi kit. He drilled out the
vents and replaced the mesh.
The finish is Tamiya.
QUESTIONS FOR JENNY?
Send your Finish Line questions to
SCALE AUTO, Finish Line
21027 Crossroads Circle, Box 1612,

E-mail: jmaaske@ScaleAutoMag.com
WANT TO SUBMIT A PHOTO?
Its easy! Visit our contributor submission
Web site at www.contribute.kalmbach.com
and follow the step-by-step guide.
Be sure to provide all the necessary
information and details about your model!

Scale Auto 10 - 2013

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Indianapolis Motor Speedway , Ofcially Licensed Product. GENERAL MOTORS Trademarks used under license to Round 2, LLC.

popular 1960s Craftsman

are all about fun and satisfaction in the modeling hobby.

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continue their wildly successful line of parts packs with the

BURBANKS HOUSE OF HOBBIES

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RIDERS HOBBY SHOP

TOP SHELF MODELS

WHEELS AND WINGS

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