The Open University of Sri Lanka Diploma in Industrial Studies - 2013/2014 TTI3236 Fabric Structure and Analysis Instructions

Please read the following instructions carefully. They give some useful information pertaining to the course TTI3236 Fabric structure and analysis.

TTI3236 is a course of six credits rating and is offered at Level 3 in the Diploma in Industrial Studies programme. This means you are expected to spend, approximately 150 hours of study time for this course. This course consists of forty-six sessions in six units. The titles of the units are, Unit I Unit II Unit III Unit IV Unit V Unit VI Woven Designs An Introduction (3 sessions) Basic Weaves (8 sessions) Fancy Weaves (10 sessions) Complex Weaves (10 sessions) Knit Designs (7 sessions) Fabric Production Calculations (8 sessions)

The continuous assessment of this course consists of three assignments, two Continuous Assessment Tests (CAT) and laboratory work of six sessions. All the assignment question papers are attached with this package. You are instructed to answer these assignments and send them to the co-ordinator of this course before the last dates of submission. Any assignment sent after the last date of submission will not be accepted. When you answer your assignments you are strongly advised not to copy the answer directly from the book. If you copy direct from the book, you are liable to loose marks. Therefore, read the lesson material and answer the questions in your own words. The days on which the two CATs and Laboratory classes will be held are given in the Activity Diary given to you at the registration. The session coverage for the assignments and the CATs are as below. Assignment 1 CAT 1 Units 1 and 2 Units 1 and 2 Units 1, 2, 3 and 4 Units 1, 2, 3 and 4 Units 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6

Assignment 2 CAT 2 -

Assignment 3 -

This course also has three day-schools in Colombo Regional Centre. The days on which the dayschools will be held are also given in the Activity Diary. Therefore, go through the Activity Schedule and note down the relevant dates and times to attend the relevant activities. The hand out for the

laboratory work is included in this course package. You have to read it and come prepared for laboratory classes. The scheme of assessment for the continuous assessment (CA) is as below. Final CA mark (X) = [0.3 x Best CAT] + {0.3 x [(Best TMA/Second Best CAT x 0.4) + (Second Best TMA/Second Best CAT x 0.35) + (Third Best TMA/Second Best CAT x 0.25)]} + [Laboratory marks x 0.4] Please note that Second Best CAT would be counted only once at the appropriate place. Unless you obtain a minimum of 40% final mark for the continuous assessment you will not be allowed to sit the final examination. Those students who are not eligible to sit the final examination (who obtain less than 40% final marks for the continuous assessment) will have to register for the course as Repeat students in the next academic year. Please also note that the eligibility mark is valid only for a period of three years, inclusive of the year of eligibility. Final examination of TTI3236 consists of a paper of three hours duration and will consist of both structured and essay type questions. The final overall mark for the course is given by taking both the Continuous Assessment Mark (X) and the Final Exam Mark (Y). Overall Mark (Z) = [CA Mark (X) x 0.5] + [Final Exam Mark (Y) x 0.5] Based on the overall mark obtained you will be awarded the following grades. 85 75 70 63 55 50 45 40 35 20 Z Z Z Z Z Z Z Z Z Z Z < < < < < < < < < < 85 75 70 63 55 50 45 40 30 20 PA+ PA PA PB PB PC PC PC RE RE RF - Pass Grade A+ - Pass Grade A - Pass Grade A- Pass Grade B+ - Pass Grade B - Pass Grade B- Pass Grade C+ - Pass Grade C - Pass Grade D+ - Pass Grade D - Bad Fail

If you have any questions or problems regarding this course, TTI3142, contact the course coordinator immediately. Coordinator for this course is Prof. S. A. Ariadurai. His office is in Room No. 5 in the Department of Textile & Apparel Technology office in the Science and Engineering Building (Third Floor) at the Main OUSL campus in Colombo. His telephone number is 011 2881351 and the email is saari@ou.ac.lk Make sure to give your contact details to the course coordinator to inform any changes regarding the course.

TTI3236 Fabric Structure and Analysis Course Time Table Activity Description Day School 1 Lab 1 Tutor Marked Assignment due 1 Lab 2 CA Test 1 Day School 2 Lab 3 Tutor Marked Assignment due 2 CA Test 2 Day School 3 Tutor Marked Assignment due 3 Finial examination M E E E E E E E E E E E E Date 25/11/2013 25/11/2013 03/01/2014 13/01/2014 18/01/2014 23/03/2014 04/04/2014 10/04/2014 27/04/2014 01/06/2014 05/06/2014 16/08/2014 Time 09:00-10:30 10:30-16:00 09:00-16:00 09:00-16:00 15:45-17:00 13:30-15:30 09:00-16:00 09:00-16:00 15:45-17:00 15:00-17:00 09:00-16:00 09:30-12:30 Centre CL CL CL CL RC CL CL CL RC CL CL RC

You may post the answers to the Assignments to Course coordinator TTI3236 Department of Textile & Apparel Technology Open University of Sri Lanka Nawala, Nugegoda
10250

The Open University of Sri Lanka Diploma in Industrial Studies - 2013/2014 TTI3236 Fabric Structure and Analysis
Assignment - 01
Answers to this assignment must be submitted on or before 27 December 2013. No answers to this assignment will be accepted after this date. Those who wish to post the assignment must post it before 20 December 2013. Answer all questions.

01.

a. b. c.

A fabric design with smooth surface needs to be constructed. What conditions need to be met to obtain such a fabric design? What rules will allow you to construct such a fabric? Draw a weft faced smoothed surface design for a 10 x 10 repeat size. All steps involved must be clearly shown.

02.

Construct three of your own different weave patterns combining the following weaves a. Warp rib, weft rib, and plain b. Warp rib, weft rib and matt c. 2/2 twill and matt Give the design, drawing-in plan and lifting-in plan of the weaves.

03.

Taking the following weave as the base, construct the following weave designs. 2 2 a. Normal twill d. Diamond twill 2 1 1 2 c. Vertical waved twill

b. Horizontal waved twill e. Herringbone twill

Draw the drawing-in plan and lifting plan of the above weave designs. 04. Write short notes on the following a. Point paper b. Comparison between straight draft and skip draft c. Extended sateen weave d. Variations in plain weave fabrics

The Open University of Sri Lanka Diploma in Industrial Studies - 2013/2014 TTI3236 Fabric Structure and Analysis
Assignment - 02
Answers to this assignment must be submitted on or before 28 February 2014. No answers to this assignment will be accepted after this date. Those who wish to post the assignment must post it before 21 February 2014. Answer all questions.

01.

a. b. c. d.

With suitable examples explain the construction of twilled hopsack weave. Construct a huckaback weave and give its drawing-in plan and lifting plan. Construct a barleycorn weave for a 3/3 matt base with single twill line. Construct a fancy weave with 3 end matt weave in which float at one corner of each square is reversed. What are the characteristic features of the following type of weaves: i. ii. Ordinary honeycomb weave Brighton honeycomb weave

02.

a.

b. What are the four different ways by, which crepe weave could be developed? Explain each of these procedures with the help of suitable examples. 03. a. Develop a 8 x 8 centre stitched double weave fabric weaving plain on face and 2/2 twill on back. Use 2 addition warp yarns to do the centre stitching.

b. Draw the design pattern for a terry pile weave having piles only on the face of the fabric with a 2/1-warp arrangement. c. Draw the design pattern of a velvet structure with 2 x 2-rib ground structure, with a 2 ground to 1 pile ratio and with 2 picks to 1 wire ratio. 04. Draw 2 x 2 matt weave designs. Introduce the following colouring order and obtain the final design. a. 2 x 2 red and blue warp colouring and 2 x 2 red and blue colouring b. 2 x 2 yellow and green colouring and 2 x 2 green and yellow colouring c. 4 x 4 black and white colouring in both war and weft

The Open University of Sri Lanka Diploma in Industrial Studies - 2013/2014 TTI3236 Fabric Structure and Analysis
Assignment - 03
Answers to this assignment must be submitted on or before 16 May 2014. No answers to this assignment will be accepted after this date. Those who wish to post the assignment must post it before 09 May 2014. Answer all questions.

01. a. b.

Give the pattern notation, characteristics and uses of Piquette, Single Pique, Pin-tuck and Texi-pique structures. Give the pattern notation, characteristics and uses of Tricot, Locknit, Sharkskin and Queenscord.

02.

A fabric 106 cm wide is woven on a loom, which has a reed length of 110 cm with 20 tex warp and 24 tex weft. The number of ends per centimetre is 28 and the number of picks per centimetre is 40. Add 20 ends on each side of the fabric for selvedges. The count of selvedge yarn is 30 tex. The length of the fabric required is 1000 metres. Allowance for waste is 4% for the warp and 2% for the weft. If the warp crimp is 8%, a. How much warp and weft yarns would be required to weave this fabric? b. What is the areal density of this fabric? c. How much yarn would be required for selvedges?

03.

a.

A warp knit fabric was produced with 15 wales/cm and 32 courses/cm. The stitch length is 2.4 cm. If an identical fabric was produced with 20 wales/cm and 36 course/cm, what would be the stitch length of the new fabric?

b. A warp knitted dress material is produced an in the grey state has 16 wales/cm and 32 courses/cm. The run-in is 190 cm for the back bar and 110 cm for the front bar, both bars being fed by 6 tex polyester yarn. Calculate the areal density of this fabric in g/sq.m. 04. a. Calculate the resultant count of the following composite yarn. A three-fold yarn of 130 yards length made by doubling together 160 yards of 16s yarn, 150 yards of 24s yarn and 130 yards of 10s yarn.

b. Calculate the warp and weft cover factors of the following fabric: 64 denier nylon warp x 44s worsted weft: 90 ends/inch x 70 picks/inch. c. A warp knitted dress material is produced to have 15 wales/cm and 32 courses/cm in the grey state. The run-in is 190cm for the back bar and 100cm for the front bar, both bars being fed by 5 tex polyester yarn. Calculate the areal density of this fabric in g/m2.

The Open University of Sri Lanka Diploma in Industrial Studies - 2013/2014 TTI3236 Fabric Structure and Analysis Laboratory Handout
Practical 01 Point Paper Representation of Woven Fabrics
Amount of Time required 06 Hours (02 sessions) You should have finished studying Unit I and done the activities given in the unit before you come for this practical. Using the counting glass, identify the weave designs of the given fabric samples and represent their design notations in the point paper.

Practical 02 - Colour Weave Repeats in Fabrics

Amount of Time required 03 Hours (01 session) You should have finished studying Unit I and II before you come for this practical

a. Using the counting glass, identify the weave designs of the given fabric samples and represent
their design notations in the point paper.

b. Draw the drawing-in plan of the weave design. c. Draw the lifting-in plan of the design. d. Draw the denting order of the design. e. Give the colour repeat plan of both warp and weft yarns (if applicable) in a tabulated form.

Practical 03 - Fabrics Woven with Different Counts of Yarns

Amount of Time required 03 Hours (01 session) You should have finished studying Unit I and II before you come for this practical

a. Using the counting glass, identify the weave designs of the given fabric samples and represent
their design notations in the point paper.

b. Draw the drawing-in plan of the weave design. c. Draw the lifting-in plan of the design. d. Draw the denting order of the design. e. Using the pocket count balance, measure the counts of all the yarns in the given fabric sample.
Give the yarn count repeat plan of both warp and weft (if applicable) in a tabulated form.

f. Give the colour repeat plan of both warp and weft (if applicable) in a tabulated form. 7

Operating instructions for the use of the pocket count balance

a. Open the balance case b. Ease the balance to the vertical position c. Hang the S shaped hook on the right hand side d. Level the instrument by means of the adjusting screw in the base, so that the pointer covers the datum line. e. Remove the S shaped hook. f. Cut cloth to the size of the specified template.

g. Remove the constituent ends / picks. h. Hang a sufficient number of threads on the right hand side to allow the pointer to come to the datum line. i. The number of threads required to achieve this effect represents the count of the yarn.

Practical 04 -Production Calculation in Woven Fabrics

Amount of Time required 06 Hours (02 sessions) You should have finished studying Unit VI before you come for this practical a. Using the counting glass, identify the weave designs of the given fabric samples and represent their design notations in the point paper. b. Draw the drawing-in plan, lifting-in plan and the denting order of this weave. c. Using the counting glass, count the ends and picks per cm in the given fabric sample. d. Using the pocket count balance, estimate the count of warp and weft yarns e. If there are coloured yarns and/or yarns of different counts, give the colour repeat plans and yarn count repeat plans. f. Using the crimp tester, measure the amount of crimp in both the warp and weft yarns.

g. Calculate the total length of warp in a square metre of cloth. h. Calculate the weight of warp yarn in a square metre of cloth. i. j. Calculate the total length of weft in a square metre of cloth. Calculate the weight of weft yarn in a square metre of cloth.

k. Calculate the total weight of yarn in a square metre of cloth, which is the area density of the fabric. l. Calculate the areal density of the fabric.

m. Check it with the actual area density of the fabric. n. Calculate the total amount of yarn required to weave 1000 metres of this fabric with 90 cm fabric width. If there are different kinds of yarn give the breakdown of each type of yarn. Assume 4% and 2% of wastage in warp and weft respectively.