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Everest, Helambu & Langtang - panorama-photographs and poems from the
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www. AroundAnnapurna.de
a photographic and poetic journey around the Annapurna
eine photographisch-poetische Reise um die Annapurna
Photographs by Andreas Stimm
Poems by Yuyutsu R. D. Sharma
Extract of day descriptions from the book:
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PANORAMA
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epsilonmedia epsilonmedia
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Everest, Helambu & Langtang - panorama-photographs and poems from the
Annapurna area, Everest nationalpark and Langtang/Helambu area
Copyright by www.Epsilonmedia.de
I. Annapurna Circuit-classic (Around Annapurna)
1. Day From Besisahar to Ngadi
The small city Besisahar is our starting point at about a height
of 900 m. From here the trek leads along a eld path to the place
Khudi where the Khudi Khola meets the Marsyandi river. We
cross a branch of the Marsyandi and go up through the place,
approximately at a height equal our starting-points height,
continue to walk along the broad way, cross a long suspension
bridge and reach the place Bhulbhule. Finally we nd ourselves
on narrow ways now and walk along the orographical right
side of the Marsyandi up to the place Ngadi at about a height of
900 m.
2. Day From Ngadi to Ghermu
The rst ascent waits. Aer a at, short, calm section above the
river and along distinct farms and small villages, the way rises
steeply up aer Bahundanda (1270 m). It crosses innumerable
rice terraces, which nestle magnicently against the slopes of
the area. Here in September aer the end of the monsoon the
full green of the rice plants still shines, and during the harvest
in the middle of November the elds light up in gold-yellow
color. Bahundanda is enthroned on a crest and aer lunch it
goes through a small bamboo forest, again down to the Marsy-
andi river. Along it we continue to Ghermu (1100 m).
3. Day From Ghermu to Chamje
The second rise is approaching. Aer we le Ghermu, we
descend to the river, cross it on a suspension bridge and
begin slowly to master the rise, up to the selement Jagat. In
the meantime the elds yielded smaller tree vegetation, the
steep slopes at our side are narrowing the valley, a view to
the foothills point that we are still deeply in the ravine. In the
second half of the day we run now constantly upward to the
small place Chamje (1380 m) in which we stay well-deservedly
overnight.
4. Day From Chamje to Bagarchap
A varied day expects us. From Chamje it goes down through
dense forest to the river, to cross it over a suspension bridge.
The way coils the valley along and here and there white orchids
in full bloom are to be found within ranges of unspoiled for-
est land. Steeply the way climbs up a powerful rockslide area
shortly before the place Tal, in order to run into a hamlet in
a small plain. Worthwhile is here a short break, before one
continues to rise the close valley to Dharapani at the crossroad
of the Makalu Trekking. We walk on to Bagarchap (2140 m) and
notice that the valley has opened so that larger selements exist
and agriculture is possible.
5. Day From Bagarchap to Chame
The direction is clear - it continues to go up the valley. We leave
the village and arrive into an area of unspoiled forest with
large, powerful trees and dense undergrowth. Here it goes
steeply up to Temang to a height up to 2600 m. Now the way
winds itself along on the slopes, until we arrive in the village
Chame at a height of 2700 m.
6. Day From Chame Lower to Pisang
In the course of the day we reach the open and wide, highly
situated valley of Manang; Lower Pisang forms the beginning
and the rst place. We start in Chame, walk through a conifer-
ous forest high to Thaleku and in kind weather we are able to
admire the snowy mountains of the Lamjung Himal (6988 m).
The valley is narrowing until behind the place Bhratang we
take a path, struck into the rock-face. Along it, descending, we
arrive at the Marsyandi river again, cross it on a suspension
bridge and rise steeply through the opposite coniferous forest
into the high situated valley of Manang to the village Lower
Pisang (3250 m). Pisang peak enthroned above the valley and
the glacier-covered slopes of Annapurna I and IV appear on our
side of the slope.
7. Day From Lower Pisang to Braga
We are now constantly above a height of 3000 m and walk
today the wide valley towards the village Braga. Hereto we
have sucient time, so that we can enjoy the far landscape now
extensively. But rst it just goes over a small hill to a height of
3400 m and from there we have a free view along the valley.
Completely at the end the Grande Barriere announces itself
as a white glacier wall, to whose feet the Tilichio lake lies. Be-
low us we catch sight of the place Humde with a landing strip
for small airplanes.
8. Day From Braga to Manang
Braga and Manang are neighbouring villages and one covers
the distance in good an hour. The day is meant as a day of ac-
climatization, and thats why we dont go immediately on the
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trek, but very early ascend the path only with the daily luggage
behind Braga. Somewhere on the way we encounter a sign: Ice
Lake, showing the direction we would like to go and because
we are in good condition we even try to reach the lake. As the
name already interprets: the lake is frozen in winter. The height
amounts to about 4600 m; whose feeling is well at such a height
has obtained a suitable degree of acclimatization and needs
no further thoughts about his condition for the Thorung La.
From a height of about 4000 m upwards the view is however
already enormously because one stands opposite the summits
of the Annapurna II, IV, III and the Gangapurna (7454 m). Our
descent is rapidly and aer an ample refreshment in Braga we
reach through an impressive entrance the small coage Manang
in the early evening.
9. Day From Manang to Gunsang
A further small stage calls and we want to stay overnight at
a height of about 4000 m. We go behind Manang through the
small place Tankimanang and in the early aernoon we reach
the small selement Gunsang (3940 m), which consists only
of a handful lodgings. The days remaining hours one should
use to recharge ones baeries, because the following days will
become cumbersomely by the increasing height and the long
rise to the Thorung La.
10. Day From Gunsang to Thorung Phedi
We start from Gunsang towards Yak Kharka. The enormous
massif of Annapurna lies behind us, the straight view falls at
the powerful Gangapurna, the Tarke Kang and the Grande
barrier. Constantly the way now leads up the valley and aer
lunch time in Yak Kharka we get ready to hike the last piece of
way to Thorung Phedi (4520 m) at the foot of the Thorung La
pass.
11. Day From Thorung Phedi to Thorung La-Mukti-
nath
The longest day expects us, and so this night in 4500 m height is
quite short, because we start already very early in the morning
hours, in order to have sucient time for the way. Equipped
with forehead lamps we rise immediately behind Thorung Phe-
di steeply in the debris eld upward to the higher lain Thorung
Phedi High Camp at about 4800 m height. A short rest with a
hot tea creates miracles and we are again on the move in order
to cross the magic contour of 5000 m. Aer Thorung Phedi
High Camp the steepness of the slope yields an area more open
and follows now the gentle back constantly upwards. With
increasing height the mountains of the Pukhung Himals with
the massif of the Chulu summits in the east move clearly closer.
The air has become considerably thinner and breathing is a
dicult maer, so that the small tea house at a height of about
5000 m is welcome for a recovery break. Aer a refreshment
we tackle the ascents last section up to the passs height, and
aer arduous hours, innumerable steps and with gasping lungs
we suddenly stand on the broad saddle between the mountain
Khatung Kang (6484 m) and Yakgawa Kang (6481 m) in front
of uering prayer ags at 5420 m height. Over the pass we
look in western direction into the far dry valley of Kali Gan-
daki; from here some distance northward lies the border of the
kingdom Mustang. A small tea house, surely one of the high-
est in the world, makes it possible to take a short refreshment
and aer the shooting of these provisional passport photos we
set o for the long, but technically simple descent to Muktinath.
12. Day From Muktinath to Kagbeni
Two highlights expect us here: rst,the view at the Dhaulagiri
(8167 m) and second, the pilgrim place Muktinath-Chumig
Gyatsa. Muktinath-Chumig Gyatsa is one of the most important
pilgrim places of Nepal both for Buddhists and for Hindus.
At this place one shows by a remarkable example that dier-
ent religions get along harmoniously with one another, and it
is very possible that we meet innumerable groups of pilgrims,
which are on a pilgrimage up the way via Kagbeni. Muktinath-
Chumig Gyatsa represents not only the elements earth, air and
holy water, but possesses additionally a burning ame within
a temple, and so this location represents for many believers an
important point for meditation or reection. We should take
up sucient time for a stay before we step down the way from
Muktinath via the medieval Jharkot to Kagbeni. Well acclimat-
ed and in oxygen-rich air this is a scarce half-day stage or with
other words a cosy walk aer the supreme performance of the
past days.
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Everest, Helambu & Langtang - panorama-photographs and poems from the
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Copyright by www.Epsilonmedia.de
13. Day From Kagbeni to Marpha
We have been entering one of the deepest ravines of the earth:
Kagbeni. The high summits relief such as Dhaulagiri or Nilgiri
from the peaks to the boom is enormously, and the summits
high above the ravine seem to be within reach despite its height.
Caused by this morphology it can be extremely draughty as the
Kali Gandaki is acting like an enormous replace and forms the
connection from the warm-damp central country to the very dry,
cold Tibetan high plateau. In the morning till about eleven oclock
its usually calm, but aerwards the so called nozzle-eectoen
begins. In order not to have constantly to run against the wind, we
start the next days early in the morning. In winter the Kali Gandaki
leads lile water, compared with other times and so there is mostly
a more comfortable winterway on the riverbed and a more arduous
one above. We also encounter a low water level and run in the end-
less plain with crushed stone to Jomsom (2730 m), which forms the
largest village in the valley. Here a recently tarred runway exists
and many tourists choose this place as starting point or endpoint
of their trecks. Aer an extensive lunch we continue our way in the
crushed-stone-plain to the small place Marpha (2700 m) with its
lime-whitewashed houses.
14. Day From Marpha to Lete
The valley surprises us in comparison with the valley beyond the
Thorung La with a cultural and architectural completely dierent
appearance. This is understandable, because we are here in the area
of an old salt-commercial-route, that was seled by peoples coming
from Tibet such as Bhotia, Thakali or Tibetan step by step since the
eleventh century from Nepals northern bounderies. In particular
however the Chinese cultural revolution in 1956 brought an im-
mense stream of refugees of the last mentioned group into the Kali
Gandaki valley, where at this time dramatic scenes took place. The
valley got overpopulated, and these rolling in people had nothing
except their clothing; the situation was critical because of an arising
famine. A disaster could be averted at that time by selement and
other remedial measures, whereby this to a large extent is to be
owed to a Swiss Toni Hagen, who was active under the leadership
of the international commiee of the red cross. He had the imagina-
tive idea to distribute an assuring message from the Dalai Lama by
means of a simple tape recorder to the Tibetan refugees in the Kali
Gandaki, so that these - calmed down by the voice of their religious
head - could begin to develop a new life. Here a positive history of
refugees can be seen and many of these people are now prosper-
ously and at any time all are friendly to us.
From that radiating white city Marpha we walk today
through the village Tukuche on the endless gravel-stone-
plain of the Kali Gandaki until Lete (2510 m). We pass
apple-tree-plantations again and again, and even in Kath-
mandu in the supermarkets we will nd deliciously tasting
dried apple-disks from Marpha. Towards the end of the
day and shortly before Lete the valley narrows itself, the far
crushed-stone-plain withdraws and we hike along a way,
that leads us to the foot of the Dhaulagiri to the small sele-
ment Lete.
15. Day From Lete to Tatopani
Aer the relatively simple stages of the preceding days a
long walk expects us today, which brings us to the place
Tatopani, hot water, and where we nally can take a bath
in the hot springs. First however it goes downhill to Gasa,
through the narrowing valley at about a height of 2000 m.
We walk again into a landscape, which is substantially more
humid and warmer, as the upper Kali Gandaki valley, and
the elds and farms increase continuously. Against late
noontime we reach Dana, a place, which possesses some
stately business houses, which are completely out of bricks
and more rarely to be met in the Annapurna area. Then aer
lunch we walk downhill until we reach the tropical looking
place Tatopani (1200 m) in the early evening, where we nd
mandarintrees and bananaplants and where we move into
our accommodation.
16. Day From Tatopani to Ghorepani
We change today our direction and move up again. Briey
behind Tatopani we cross the Kali Gandaki river and a
branch on suspension bridges and walk steeply up the slope
which is shaped by terraces and elds to Sikkha (1930 m).
During the harvest time we see everywhere people work-
ing on the elds; only behind the village Chitre at about a
height of 2400 m the beautiful rhododendron forest begins,
which is like a paradise in its bloom time in April/May. Now
we go up steeply through it to the saddle where the village
Ghorepani (2880 m) lies.
17. Day From Ghorepani Poon Hill to Ulleri
Our departure time is today before sunrise, because it is
worthwhile, standing at the viewpoint Poon Hill (3180
m), to see the day starting. In the northwest the enormous
Dhaulagiri massif towers with Dhaulagiri I-V, northerly,
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aside the Tukuche peak, in the northeast Annapurna South and
Machapuchare. Aer the impressive panorama we descend again
and set o on the way through the dense rhododendron forest
to Ulleri (2050 m). We are now above the river Bhurugndi Khola,
a branch of the well-known river Modi Khola, which ows then
again into the Kali Gandaki.
18. Day From Ulleri to Naya Pul
The last trekking day starts; on innumerable steps it goes down
there to Tirkhedunga at a height of 1500 m, the way follows the
river untill we reach Birethanti with the Modi Khola and there river
downwards we encounter the main street from Pokhara to Baglung
aer some time. Since the existance of the street here the Around
Annapurna walk ends and altogether we have covered about 200
km distance and we have achieved ten kilometers ascent.
II. Annapurna Basislager (ABC)
No classical point of beginning or ending a trek exists for the route
to the Annapurna basis camp. Here the route from the starting
place Dhamphus is described, which will be reached easily by car
from Pokhara if the road conditions are good ones.
1. Day From Dhampus to Landrung
We start at the small place Dhampus; the weather is beautifully; the
view automatically rambles to the powerful Annapurna South and
the Machapuchare that looks slimly against it. The way rises slowly
to a height of 2100 m behind Bhichok Deurali and exceeds a small
pass. Thus we are in the Khola valley, which winds up itself to the
basis camp, so that we follow it for the next days. High above the
valley along terraced tendencies we run via the place Tolka to Lan-
drung (1700 m), where we arrive in the late evening hours.
2. Day From Landrung to Chomrong
We walk upwards the slightly rising valley along small, tillted
elds, passing some farms, arrive the bank of the rushing river
Khola and cross it on a bridge. Here a steep rise follows via the set-
tlement Udi to the village Chinudanda lain on a rock. Aer lunch
time we continue our steeply rising way to a height of about 2000
m above the river and from there we pace at an nearly equal height
to the place Chomrong.
3. Day From Chomrong to Dhovan
Chomrong consists of a relatively large selement nestling
against the terraced tendencies. It is worthwhile to search
for an accommodation with view of the Annapurna South,
Hiunchuli and the Machapuchare; the mountains stand
frontally to the place and are a feast for the eyes. Aer
breakfast we pass through the village rst and progres
then very steeply down to the Chomrong Khola, far again
steeply upward to the selement Sinuwa (2340 m). From
there we contiue the easily rising way via Khuldi Ghar and
Bamboo to Doban (2500m).
4. Day From Dhovan to Deurali
The valley contracts now and the mountain anks steepen
closing the valley. We reach today a height of 3200 m. The
way leads constantly uphill, the vegetation grows bearly
and in winter one has to be alert to the rst snow from here
on.
5. Day From Deurali to Machapuchare Basecamp
A short day, because the hiking trail is not very long; how-
ever we pass the benchmark of 3500 m and the airs oxygen
content decreases now noticeably. Who feels suciently
t at this height, is also able to continue the way to the An-
napurna basecamp.
6. Day From Machapuchare Basecamp to Annapur-
na Basecamp
Now the close valley has opened again shortly before the
Machapuchare basecamp and we stay in an enormous bowl
surrounded by Machapuchare, Singu Chuli, Fang, An-
napurna south and Hiunchuli. The further we approach the
Annapurna basecamp the more we have an insight into the
enormous Annapurna south wall.
7. Day From Annapurna Basecamp to Chomrong
During sunrise it is worth to walk towards the Annapurna
south wall. There we discover the enormous end moraine,
and look into the former bed of Annapurnas glacier. Far
away the wall foot of the Annapurna south wall streches,
the summit ridge of the Annapurna I seems to be still more
unaainable with a height of 8000 m. At the moraines
break-o edge, where we are deeply impressed by the
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PANORAMA
P H O T O G R A P H Y
" T i me l e s s
Do c u me n t a t i o n s "
NO TRUE
P h o t o g r a p h y
D I G I T A L A N A L O G
10
Y E A R S
P
H
O
T
O
G
R
A
P
H
Y
N E P A L
THE ORIGINAL
PRODUCED IN GERMANY
H
I
M
A
L
A
Y
A
N
P
O
E
T
R
Y
-
N
E
P
AL - GEDIC
H
T
E
A
U
S
D
E
M
H
I
M
A
L
A
J
A
PANORAMA
P H O T O G R A P H Y
epsilonmedia epsilonmedia
m e d i e n
w w w . e p s i l o n m e d i a . d e
Trilogy Part I ISBN 978-3-00-016002-8
Trilogy I-III ISBN 978-3-9810883-2-8
N
E
P
A
L
I NDI A
T I BET
Kathmandu
Pokhara
NEPAL-TRILOGY
NEPAL-TRILOGIE
I. www. AroundAnnapurna.de
II. www.WayToEverest .de
III. www. AmazingHelambu.de
www. Nepal-Trilogy.de
Everest, Helambu & Langtang - panorama-photographs and poems from the
Annapurna area, Everest nationalpark and Langtang/Helambu area
Copyright by www.Epsilonmedia.de
whole enormous arena, a richly-decorated chorten stands. Aer a
short refreshment in one of the lodgings of the Annapurna base-
camp we start the return route. We pass rapidly the Machapuchare
basecamp, the selements of Deurali and reach again Chomrong.
8. Day From Chomrong to Ghandrung
We leave the well-known Chomrong now, pass the small selement
Taglung (2050 m) and this time we dont cross the Kali Khola river,
but walk along it till we ascend steeply high to Ghandrung.
9. Day From Ghandrung to Naya Pul
The last section of our trek runs from Ghandruk to Naya Pul along
the Kali Khola. We returned nally into the area, in which more
pleasant, warmer climate prevails, and walk between banana
plants, mandarin-trees and magnicently owering Bougainvilleas
to the Baglung highway, which we encounter in the place Naya Pul.
From there we achieve comfortably and rapidly with a taxi back to
our starting point Pokhara.
www.WayToEverest .de
a photographic and poetic journey to the foot of Everest
316 pages, 212 panoramic photographs, 21 poems,
trekking-profile & mountain-sketches
ISBN 978-3-9810883-0-4
www. AmazingHelambu.de
a photographic and poetic journey through the Helambu and Langtang
228 pages, 125 panoramic photographs, 19 poems
ISBN 978-3-9810883-1-1
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01
D AY
02
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D AY
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D AY
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D AY
A production by
Epsilonmedia
www.epsilonmedia.de
kontakt@epsilonmedia.de
Gehen Sie doch
zum Everest!
www. Wa y To Ev e r e s t . d e
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o
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PANORAMA
P H O T O G R A P H Y
" T i me l e s s
Do c u me n t a t i o n s "
NO TRUE
P h o t o g r a p h y
D I G I T A L A N A L O G
10
Y E A R S
P
H
O
T
O
G
R
A
P
H
Y
N E P A L
THE ORIGINAL
PRODUCED IN GERMANY
H
I
M
A
L
A
Y
A
N
P
O
E
T
R
Y
-
N
E
P
AL - GEDIC
H
T
E
A
U
S
D
E
M
H
I
M
A
L
A
J
A
PANORAMA
P H O T O G R A P H Y
epsilonmedia epsilonmedia
m e d i e n
w w w . e p s i l o n m e d i a . d e
Trilogy Part I ISBN 978-3-00-016002-8
Trilogy I-III ISBN 978-3-9810883-2-8
N
E
P
A
L
I NDI A
T I BET
Kathmandu
Pokhara
NEPAL-TRILOGY
NEPAL-TRILOGIE
I. www. AroundAnnapurna.de
II. www.WayToEverest .de
III. www. AmazingHelambu.de
Copyright by www.Epsilonmedia.de
www. Nepal-Trilogy.de
Everest, Helambu & Langtang - panorama-photographs and poems from the
Annapurna area, Everest nationalpark and Langtang/Helambu area
1
2
5
3
9
8
7
6
10
14
13
12
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18
17
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4
N
Ghorepani
Pokhara
Thirkedunga
Naya Pul
End
Ghasa
Tukuche
Tatopani
Marpha
Jomsom
Kagbeni
Muktinath
Manang
Thorung Phedi
Braga
Bagarchap
Lower Pisang
Tal
Chamje
Ghermu
Ngadi
Bahundanda
Besisahar
Start
Chame
Bhulbhule
Gunsang
Lete
Machapuchare
(6997m)
Annapurna South
(7273m)
Annapurna I
(8091m)
Annapurna IV
(7525m)
Gangapurna
(74534m)
Lamj ung Hi mal
(6986m)
Dhaul agi ri
(8167m)
Ni l gi ri s
(7061m)
Thorung La
(5414m)
)

(
Ulleri
Poon Hi l l
(3194m)
Manasl u
(8163m)
to
Dumre
to
Pokhara
to
Beni
to
Mustang
Annapurna II
(7937m)
Annapurna III
(7558m)
Tukuche Peak
(6920m)
Pi sang Peak
(6092m)
Chul u East
(6588m)
Chul u West
(6420m)
Ghandruk
Dhampus
ABC
Legend
: trekking day
4
: peak
: village, settlement
: trekking way
approx. 10 km
Not to scale
g area
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