History

Cross country skiing as we know it today is called Nordic Skiing because the past history of skiing has
predominantly occurred in the Nordic countries. Of all the winter sports, cross-country skiing has the
longest history of use. Discoveries of Stone Age rock carvings in Norway and prehistoric skis in Sweden
indicate that this mode of transportation could easily be 4000 years old. In 1856, John A, Snowshoe
Thompson began to carry mail across the Rockies to cover his mail route from Placerville, California to
Carson City, Nevada, a distance of 91 miles. He did this weekly for over twenty-one years.

Today cross-country skiing is gaining in popularity. Cross-country skiing has been determined to be one of
the best types of exercises a person can do. The reason is that during cross-country skiing almost all of your
muscles are used, which in turn burns more calories. People who cross country ski also have the
opportunity to ski in many races in the area. The biggest cross-country ski race in the region is the
American Birkebiener that takes place in February in Hayward, Wisconsin. Almost 10,000 skiers take the
55-kilometer challenge. Cross-country skiing is also a high school sport in a lot of schools in Minnesota
and Wisconsin.

Cross-country skiing has changed over the years mainly due to equipment, style, and physical conditioning.
Many people use cross-country skiing as a way to keep up their physical activity in the winter. It is also a
great cross training activity for cycling and running. All aspects of the equipment have basically changed to
more lightweight, warmer, and easier care. This makes cross-country skiing more enjoyable. Lastly, the
style has changed from classical or diagonal style to skating. Skating is faster and when people enter races
they get better times when skating. Classical skiing is still the basis for cross-country skiing.

Equipment
Skis
1. Touring-skis are about 2 1/16 inches wide. They are heavier and a bit stiffer but provide more stability
than the light touring and racing skis.
2. Light touring-skis are just less than 2 inches wide. They are lighter and more flexible than the touring
and racing skis and are the most recommended skis for most skiers.
3. Racing-skis are well under 2 inches wide. They are the lightest skis made but are more fragile and harder
to turn on than touring or light touring skis.

Types of bottoms found on waxless skis:
A) Fish scales
B) Step pattern
The waxless bottom is not as adaptable to changing snow conditions as waxable skis. Application of
different waxes in the kick zone is generally not possible, thus prohibiting maximum gripping performance.
You will also sacrifice some speed. However, a majority of recreational skiers find the waxless type ski to
be very satisfactory for their purpose.

Poles
There are some things to remember when using and buying poles.
o Ski poles should be made out of flexible fiberglass, metal or bamboo.
o Make sure that the poles have adjustable wrist straps.
o Do not buy a pole that has a very large basket unless you intend to do a lot of deep snow skiing.
o Be sure that the pole tip is curved so it pulls out of the snow when you ski
o Get your poles the right height. The tip of the poles should fit snuggly under your arm pit while you are
standing on your skis. It should not push your arm up in any way.
Boot/Binding Combination

The three common types of boot/binding combinations are as follows:
1. Pin binding
2. NNN
3. Salomon Nordic System (SNS)
Clothing
The big thing to remember in clothing is that 2 or 3 layers on all parts of your body are better than having
one thick wool layer. Layering also adds flexibility to you while you are skiing. Remember if you get warm
you can always take some layers off and tie them around your waist.
Using the Equipment Properly
1. Hand grip on the poles- The proper grip of the pole is taken by inserting the hand from below and
grasping over the top. You should feel pressure at the bottom of the V of the thumb and index finger if
gripping properly. Make sure the straps are properly tightened so the pole will dangle between the thumb
and the forefinger.
2. Getting up from a fall- When getting up from a fall, you need to remember that you want to do it the
easiest way possible. First, you should untwist yourself, and then get your skis together and pointed in the
same direction. If you are on a slope, make sure that your skis are below you and across the slope. Next,
roll to a kneeling position on the skis, placing your hands out for support. Slide one ski forward so one knee
is at a 90 degree angle, and then simply stand up. Do not use your poles in helping you stand up, they may
break and cause injury.
3. Turning around- The kick turn is the easiest way to turn around. First, decide which ski you are going to
balance on. Once you have completed that, pull all of your weight on that and then swing the original ski
that you are balancing on around.
4. Stopping- the three main ways to stopping are as follows.
There are other variations but these are the most frequently used.
* Falling- Used often, especially in emergency situations. Sometimes used when not needed. The key to
falling is not to land on your poles, because they could break. Always fall to your side if at all possible.
NOTE: whenever you are out of control, fall. It is much better than falling into someone else or hitting a
tree.
* Snowplow- This is possible under most conditions and it has the advantage of being more controlled than
straight downhill skiing. You control not only your speed but also your direction. In doing the straight
down hill snow plow, be sure to keep the tips of your skis fairly close together while pushing your ski tails
apart in order to get that edge or braking action. To turn from this position, put more weight or push harder
on one ski and this force will drive you around in the desired direction.
* Step turn- The step or skate turn is the most efficient method of changing directions or stopping. Just
raise one ski slightly off the snow, point it in the direction that you want to go, set it down, lift the other ski
up and bring it alongside the first ski. If you do this process quick enough you can come to a very sharp
stop.

Climbing Slopes and Hills
The three main ways of climbing slopes and hills are as follows:
* Diagonal Stride: The same process as skiing normally, but now the inclination to the slope or hill, the
skier must transfer their weight with greater force on the skis to dig them into the snow. Also, the skier
must lean forward more to progress up the slope.
* Side Stepping: The side step is a sure, easy way to climb. Stand with your skis across the slope or at right
angle to the fall line (the fall line is the route a ball would take if it could roll freely down the hill.) Then lift
the up hill ski and move it up the hill a foot or so, digging in with the uphill edge as you put it down. Now
lift the other ski, place it beside the upper one, and you should be a little closer to the top of the
hill. Continue this method until you reach the top.
* Herringbone: The herringbone is a very quick, but tiring method of getting up hills that are so steep for
side stepping or diagonal striding. With your weight forward and knees flexed, spread the tips of the skis
apart and keep the tails together, forming a v. Set the weight on the inside edge by shifting your weight to
the inside of each foot. Plant one pole behind your ski. Step up, plant the other pole and step up. Continue
this method until you reach the top.

Cross country skiing technique
There are basically four styles of skiing. They are diagonal stride, double poling, single poling, and one
step double pole.
1. Diagonal Stride: The diagonal stride is the hardest of all cross-country skiing techniques. The term
diagonal can also be described as kick and glide. Kick on one ski and glide on the other ski. Remember
the term weight shift because it is the most important element in the kick and glide. The key is shifting the
entire weight from one ski to the other.
2. Double Poling: The double poling technique is done by keeping your skis together and just using your
arms and poles to move. Both poles work together to move the skier. Proper pole placement is by the
binding, and you are bent at the waist leaning forward.
3. Single Poling: The single pole technique is done by using your pole in an alternating method. Your skis
do not move. There is no kick and glide, just pole glide, pole glide.
4. One Step Double Pole: The one step double pole is done with one kick and then double pole. On the
next kick, the opposite ski is moved.
Safety Considerations
1. If skiing alone, let someone know where you are going to be.
2. Dress appropriately for the prevailing weather conditions. Remember that as the temp falls, wet clothes
are very uncomfortable.
3. Carry extra clothing when planning a long day of skiing.
4. Check equipment before you start out to make sure it is in proper working condition.
5. Be aware that the wind chill factor can make it feel much colder than the actual temperature, therefore
increasing the danger of frostbite.
6. Wear a good pair of sunglasses on bright, sunny days to cut the glare and prevent possible snow
blindness.
7. Wear a hat or carry one along. One third of the bodys heat is lost through the head.
8. Cover and protect the extremities against frostbite; ears, nose, fingers, and toes are especially vulnerable.
9. If touring for a long day, carry an emergency kit that contains ski wax, extra clothing, a wax candle,
matches or a lighter to start a fire, high energy bars, and duct tape for temporary repair of broken ski tips.
10. Ski under control at all times; if you find yourself going too fast, sit down.
11. Ski on terrain appropriate to your level of skill.
12. Ski in areas free of traffic, including cars and snowmobiles.
13. Prepare yourself in advance before engaging in a vigorous touring program or racing program. Good
physical condition is an important prerequisite, so start getting ready several weeks before the snow falls.
14. When in a crowd, be careful with your ski poles; the pointed tips can cause injury.

VOCABULARY
Basket - The bottom portion of the pole that prevents the pole from sinking into the snow too deep.
Binding - Metal or plastic device for fastening the boot to the ski.
Diagonal stride- A skiers gliding action that resembles walking as it is executed.
Fish Scale- A type of surface resembling fish scales, found on the bottom of waxless skis.
Groove- Indentation that runs the length of the bottom of the ski, allowing the ski to run straight.
Herringbone-A technique used to climb up the hill that leaves a V pattern in the snow
Kick- The force (push) that is applied during the stride, allowing the skier to glide on flat terrain or
hillsides.
Kick Turn- A technique used to change direction 180 degrees while standing still on flat terrain or hillside.
Layering- Wearing loose layers of clothing over undergarments. Therefore, the skier may easily add for
extra warmth or remove excess if too warm.
Nordic Skiing- Cross country skiing and ski jumping.
Pole Plant- Action in which the poles are put into the snow at a particular place and during a particular
time.
Side Step- A technique used to climb a hill on skis. The skis are parallel with each other as the skier steps
up along the length of the ski.
Snow Plow- A technique used to slow the skier down while going downhill by spreading the tails and
keeping the ski tips close together.
Step- A type of ski bottom design found on waxless skis, resembling a series of steps.
Tail- The back or end portion of a ski.
Track- The trail that is left by skis as the skier moves through the snow. These may be machine made.
Traverse- Movement back and forth across the face of a hill. The technique may be done uphill or
downhill.