Cheeses Made From Ewes and Goats Milk

M. Mediana and M. Nunez

Southern European countries account for most of the production of ewes and goats milk cheeses.
Traditional cheese making procedures are strictly followed in some cases and there are also examples of
cheese varieties in which they co-exist with modern industrial technology.
The manufacture of many ewes and goats milk cheeses is regulated by a Protected Designation
of Origin (PDO) at the national level, estabilished mainly in Mediterranean countries to define and
protect high-quality traditional products againts imitations (Nunez, et.al. 1989). The European Union
adopted this system in 1992 to promote and protect food products. A PDO (Europa, 2002) covers the
term used to describe food-stuff which are produced, processed, and prepared in a given geographical
area using recognized know-how. Most ewes and goats milk cheese with PDO are named after the
region in in which they are produced.
Ewes and goats milk cheeses have specials tastes and flavours, very distinct from those of
cheeses made from cows milk. Compositional difference of ewes and goats milk with respect to cows
milk, mainly in proteins and fat, account for differences in the sensory characteristics of the cheeses.
Genetic, physiological and enviromental factors are resposible for variations in milk composition within
a single species. Thus, the influence of breed, lactation stage, feeding regime, breeding conditions and
milking system on the composition of ewes and goats milk has been dealt with a numerous studies. For
reviews on the chemical composition of ewes and goats milk see Anifantakis (1986) and Juarez and
Ramos (1986), respectively.
Ewes milk cheeses
General aspects of ewes milk cheeses
The productions of ewes milk in the European Union was 2 181 382 tomes in 2001. Italy,
Greece, Spain and France account for 95% of that production (FAOSTAT, 2002). The technology,
microbiology, and chemistry of ewes milk cheeses were reviewed by Nunez, et.al (1989). Six main ewes
milk cheese families were sidered: white or fresh, brined or pickled, hard and semi-hard, blue-veined,
stretched curd and whey cheeses.
The seasonal nature of ewes milk production result in large variations in cheese production.
Cheeses in European Mediterranean countries are produced mainly between December and June, from
a milk production that increases sharply in the spring and decreases from July to November. Different
procedures to regulate milk supply, including freezing of unconcentrated ewes milk by ultrafiltration
(Voutsinas et,al. 1995), freezing of pressed curd (Fontecha et.al. 1994; Sandra et,al. 1999) and freezing
of fully ripened cheeses (Tejada et,al. 2002) have been investigated.
Genetic polymrorphism of ovine milk proteins and their relationships with the technological
properties of milk have been reviewed by Amigo, et.al. (2000). Although there is considerable
information on the effects of the genetic polymorpihism of caseins in cows or goats milk on their
composition and cheese making potential, the results obtained in ewes milk are still preliminary.
Technological consequences in the final product are not as important as for goats milk, due to the
higher casein content of ewes milk.
The effectsof
s1
- casein CC, CD and DD genotypes of cheesemaking properties were
investigated by Prisi et,al (1999). The CC milk had a higher casein content than CD or DD milk, a higher
protein: fat ration and a smaller casein micelle diameter. Cheesemaking trials with CC milk
demonstrated its better renneting properties and cheesemaking characteristics than DD milk, while CD
milk was intermediate. Three genetic variants of -lactoglobulin (-LG; A-C) have been described. The aa
phenotype of -LG seems to be more efficeient than other -LG phenotypes for cheese manufacture
(Amigo, et.al. 2000)
Some ewes and goats milk cheese varieties are manufactured with specific rennets. Pecorino
Romano and Fiore Sardo are traditionally made with rennet paste prepared from macerated stomachs
of lambs slaughtered immediately after suckling, which also contain pregastric esterases (PGES). Theese
cheese varieties have a sharp picante flavours due to the high levels of short-chain fatty acids produced
by PGE activity. Thus, these rennets play an important role in the development of cheese aroma and
flavours.
Vegeatable rennet from Cynara cardunculus is used in the manufacture of many Portuguese
and some Spanish cheese made from ewes milk. C. cardunculus is a thistle that grows wild and
abudantly in dry, stony and uncultivated areas in Mediterranean regions. Aqueous extracts are prepared
from flowers that are picked and dried in the shade in the open air. Proteinases present in the flowers of
C. cardunculus were intially termed cynares or cyprosins, and curently cardosins. Three acids
proteinases have been partly characterized (Campos, et.al. 1990; Heimgartner et,al. 1990; Faro, et.al.
1992). An acids proteinases was first isolated and shown to induce milk clotting via cleavage of the
Phe
105
-Met
106
bond in bovine k-casein (Faro, et,al. 1992). Two new aspartic proteinases, cardosins A and
B, isolated from fresh stigmas of C. cardunculus have been reported to be similar to chymosin and
pepsin, respectively (Verissimo et al. 1995, 1996)
Extracts from C. humilis are also used in the manufacture of ewes milk cheeses (Fernandez-
Salguero and Sanjuan; 1999; Vioque et al. 2000). A powdered coagulant from crude aqueous extracts of
C. cardunculus has been patentred (Fernandez-Salguero et al. 2000) and used in cheese manufacture
with similar results (Fernandez-Salguero et al. 2002). Experiments on the use of C. cardunculusn of cows
milk coagulation showed that cheeses tended to be bitter and to have textural defects (Vieira de Sea
and Barbosa, 1972). Cardosin exhibits a preference for bonds between hydrophobic amino acids of
bovine
s1
-casein (Ala
163
-Val
167
) and -casein (Ala
189
-Tyr
193
), which are less susceptible to attack by
chymosin. Several bitter peptides were indentified in the digest (Queiroz-Macedo et al. 1996).

French ewe cheeses
About 250.000 tonnes of ewes milk were produced in France in 2001. Out of a total of 37 PDO
cheeses made in French , only three varieties, Roquefort, ossau- Iraty and Broccio are made from ewes
milk. Their production in 2000 was 18.135, 2610 and 466 tonnes, respectively, representing
approximately 40% of all cheeses produced in France from ewes milk. In the same year, PDO cheeses
made from goats milk cheeses accounted for only 5% and PDO cheeses made from cows milk for 9.8%,
of total cheese produced from milk of the respective species (CNIEL, 2002)
Roquefort, the most important ewes milk Blue cheese, is of very ancient origin and has been
protected by a PDO since 1925. It is manufactured from raw ewes mi8ilk in southern France and
Corsica. Milk at 28-32:C is usually inoculated with a mesophilic lactic starter. Spores of Penicilim
roqueforti are added to the milk or sprinkled, as a suspension on to the curds when they are put into
the moulds. After draining and salting, the cheeses are transported to the natural damp, aired caves of
Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, where ripening must take place. Cheeses with a veined body are cylindrical in
shape , around 10cm high and weigh between 2,5 and 2,9 kg (See Blue Cheese. Volume 2)
Ossau0- Iray is manufactured in south-western France from raw or pasturized ewes milk. After
renneting, curds are heated at 36-44:C. Cheeses are ripened for at least 3 months. Ossau-Iraty is similar
to Roncal cheese made South of the Pyrenees, altough produced in two different forms, 2-3 and 4-7kg.
The effects of lipolytic (L1, Lipomod)and proteolysis and the sensory characteristics of Ossau-Iraty
cheese have been investigated (Izco, et al. 2000). A bitter after-taste was detected in cheeses made with
the PP preparation, with higher levels on freea minon acids (FAAs) than in control cheese. Cheeses made
with the L1 preparatrion had a more pungent flavour.
Broccio is a whey cheesen producted in Corsica and reviewed a PDO status in 1988. Fresh whey
mixed with ewes milk and heated to 80-90:C. The resulting mass is placed inrto moulds and allowed to
drain. The cheese, in the form of a ball of curd that has been flatened and drained, is presented in
returnable wicker baskets known as canestres. Broccio is usually eaten fresh, within 48 h of
manufacture, and has a mild flavour. If drained and salted ir can be ripened for at least 15 days.
Greek ewe cheeses
Greece has a very long tradition in breeding small ruminants, and consequently in cheese
production. Of the total milk produced in Greece, 39% is cows milk, 36% is ewes milk and 25% is goats
milk (Zerfiridis, 1999). About 670.000 tonnes of ewes milk were produced in Greece in 2001, and
approximately 88% of Greek cheese production is from ewes and goats milk. Twenty-three of the
twenty-six traditional PDO cheeses are made from ewes milk mixed with goats milk.
Soft cheese production in 2000 was 84 240 tonnes, including 77 894 tonnes of Feta cheese.
Semi-hard Kasseri cheese represented 4886 tonnes. Hard cheeses accounted for 15 786 tonnes,
including Graviera (8188 tonnes), Kefalograviera (3346 tonnes) and Kefalotyri (2753 tonnes). Whey
cheese production was 13 245 tonnes (Greek National Dairy Committee, personal communication).
Cheese consumption in Greece is 22 kgh per caput, 8 kg of Feta and remainder of Kasseri, Kefalograviera
and different types of Graviera and Mizithra.
Feta is the most famous traditional Greek cheese. It is a white soft cheese, ripened and kept in
brine (10-12% NaCl) for at least 2 month. Fetais a manufactured from pure ewes milk or a mixture with
up to 30% of goatsmilk. Traditionally, Feta cheese was manufactured from raw milk in small family
diaries. N9owadays, the greater part is produced from pasturized milk with commercial mesophilic and
thermophilic starter cultures. Feta has a salty, slightly acid taste, natural white colour, with a firm and
smooth texture and pleasant organoleptic characteristics. Its is marketed in barrels, in tinned boxes or
as plastic-wrapped pieces. For further information on Feta and other cheese varieties ripened under
brine see Cheese Varieties Ripened in Brine, Volume 2.\
Galotry is a soft variety, with a creamy and spreadable texture, produced from ewes or goats
milk or their mixture. The milk is heated to boiling point and left in containers at room temperature for
24 h. NaCl (3-4%) is added and the milk is left for another 2-3 days at room temperaturen with
occasional string. Rennet may be added to favour coagulation. The curds are put into containers which
are held at 8:C for not less than 2 months when raw milk has been used.
Kopanisti is a soft cheese produced from cows, ewes or goats milk or their mixtures. The milk
is coagulated at 28-30 :C in about 2 h. The coagulum is left to stand in the vat for 20-24 h, broken up and
put into cloth sack for draining. The drained curd is cool place with a high realtive humidity to promote
the growth of an abundant surface mould. Afterwards, it is a mixed every 10 days for 30-40 days to
facilitate even distribution of the mould. Kopanisti has a soft, spreadable texture and a salty and piquant
flavour. High numbers of yeasts and moulds are found during ripening, with P. commune identifeid in
90% samples (Tzanetakis et al. 1987). When combinations of yeasts and Penicillium spp,. (FFAs) and
organoleptic characteristics were not affected by inoculation with selected cultures (Kaminarides et.al.
1992)
Phitogalo Chanion is a soft cheese with a creamy texture, made from goats or ewes milk or
their mixture. The milk is coagulated at 18-25:C within 2 h. The coagulum is left to acidifity for 24 h and
placed in cheese cloths to drain. Salt i8s added to 1%.
Kasseri is a semi-hard cheese made from ewes milk, to which up to 20% goats milk may be
added. Raw or pasturized milk is used for manufacture (Moatsu et al. 2001). The coagulum is broken up
and allowed to stand for 5-10 min. the curds are heated to 38-40:C under contsant stirring and left to
drain until the pH falls to about 2,2. The block of curd is cut into thin slices, which are stretched in water
at 70-80:C for 15 min, and put into moulds for 2-3 days. The cheese is dry-salted 12-14 times during
ripening at 18:C for not less than 3 months.
Formaella Arachovas Parnasson is semi-hard variety made from ewes or goats milk or a
mixture. The milk is coagulated at about 32:C for about 2 h. the coagulum is broken up and heated to
40:C for 10 min. The curds are left settle and then divided into large pieces which fit in special moulds
(hoops or wicker containers). The moulds are immersed in whey at 60:C for 1 h. Afterwards, the cheese
are interverted and re-immersed in whey at 75-80:C for I h. Cheeses are salted and left to dry for 24 h.
then, they are placed on shelves for 4 days to dry. Formaella cheese can be consumed fresh or ripened
for not less than 3 month.
Graviera Agfaron is hard cheese produced traditionally from ewes milk or from a mixture of
ewes and goats milk. The milk is coagulated at 34-36:C with rennet. The coagulum is broken up after
25-35 min and the curds heated to 48-52:. Cheeses are pressed for several hours, left to dry on wooden
shelves for up to 2 days and then placed in brine for 2-4 days. The cheeses are ripened initially at 12-
15:C, continued at 16-18:C and completed at 12-15:C. The minimum ripening time is 3 months.
Graviera Kritis is a hard cheese made in Crete from ewes milk to which a low percentage of
goats milk may be added. It is a Gruyere-type cheese which undergoes a limited propionic acid
fermentation that gives the cheese a slightly sweet taste. Milk is heated up to 68-70:C. The coagulum is
cut and the curds are scalded at 50-52:C. Cheese wheels, with a diameter of 40 cm and weight of 14-16
kg, are salted in 16-20% brine for 4-5 days and ripened for 90 days at 15-16:C. Its composition and
microbiological characteristics were described by Kandarakins et,al. (1998). Inoculation of mil with
starter cultures resulted in a faster increase of medim and small molecular mass nitrogenous
franctiuons (Moatsou et.al. 1999)
Kefalograviera is a traditioanl hard variety manufactured from ewes milk or a mixture of ewes
and goats milk, mainly in Western Macedonia. The coagulum is broken up, heated to about 48:C,
transferred to moulds and pressed. The cheese is held at 14-16:C for 24 h, and then brine-salted for 2
days. Ripening begins at 14-16:C and during this period the surface o0f the cheese is dry-salted about 10
times. Afterwards, cheeses are held at less than 6:C for at least 3 months. Kefaliograviera is circular in
shape, with numerous holes, a pleasant salty flavour and a rich aroma. Low-fat Kefalograviera cheese,
with the same body, texture and flavour as control cheeses made from full-fat milk (6%), was produced
from milk containing 3% fat (Katsiari and Voutsinas, 1994). Cold storage of milk accelarated flavour
development of full-fat cheese and enhanced flavour of low-fat cheese (Lalos and Roussis, 2000). Partial
replacement of NaCl by KCl did not affect proteolysis of lypiolisis of cheese (Kautsari et al. 2001).
Kefalotyri is a hard, heavily salted cheese, with a strong flavour and small irregular4 eyes. It is
manufactured from ewes milk, mixed ewes and goats milk or from cows milk, without a starter
culture. Kefalotyri is considered to be the ancestor of manyy hard. Greek cheeses. It has a salty and
piquant taste and a rich aroma after ripening for at leats 3 months. Lactobacilli and enterococci counts
are high, with Enterococusfaecium, Lactobacillus plantarum and Lb. casei as the predominant species.
Leuconostocs and Streptococus thermophilus dissapear early in ripening.
Ladotyri Mytilins is a hard cheese manufactured from ewes milk or from a mixture of ewes
and goats milk on the island of Lesvos. The coagulum is broken up and heated to 45:C. The curds are
pressed in the bottom of the vat, cut to their final cheese size and placed in special moulds. Cheeses are
salted and ripened for not less than 3 months. After ripening, cheeses are immersed in olive oil or
paraffined.
Manouri is a soft whey cheese manufactures from whey obtained from ewes or goats milk or
mixtures thereof. The mixture is heated to 88-90:C over 40-45 min with contant stirring. At 70-75:C,
salt is added together with 25% ewes or goats milk or cream. When the temperature reaches 88-90:C,
the curds are left for 15-30 min and then transferred to cloth sacks for draining for 4-5 h. after this, the
cheese is kept at 4-5:C until consumed.
Xynomyzithra Kritis is another soft whey cheese, with a sharp to sweetish taste and a granular
to creamy texture, produced in Crete. The whey is fiiltered and heated to 90:C over 30 min while
stirring. At 68-70:C, a small quantity of full cream is usually added. The curds are left to stand for 30 min
and then transferred to moulds for draining for 3-5 h. salt is added and the cheese is put cloth sacks. The
cheeses are pressed for 1 week before being placed at 10:C for at least 2 month.
Italian ewe cheeses
Productions of ewes milk in italy was 850.000 tonnes in 2001 and ewes milk ch and cheese
varieties have grat economic significance, particularly in ccentral and southern Italy and in Sardinia.
Varieties with PDO status are Pecorino Romano (33.650 tonnes in 2000), Pecorino Siciliano (735
tonnes), Pecorino Toscano (1328 tonnes), Pecorino Sardo (600 tonnes), Fiore Sardo (380 tonnes),
Cannestrato Pugliese (60 tonnes), Casciotta dUrbino (230 tonnes) and Murazzano (62 tonnes). Cheese
consumption per caput in Italy in 2001 was 19,8 kg.
Pecorino Romano, the est-known Italian hard ewes milk cheese is produced is re gions around
Rome and in Sardinia. Milk, raw or thermized, at less than 68:C for not more than 15s, is inoculated with
a natural starter culture (scotta-fermento or scotta-innesto) obtained from the residual whey from
Ricotta cheese manufacture. Starters consist8ing of Sc. Thermophilus, Lactococcus lactis subsp. Lactis
and Lb. delbrueckii subsp. Bulgaricus are also used for Pecorino Romano manufacture. Coagulation with
lamb rennet paste takes placeb at 37-39:C in 14-16 min. the coagulum is cut, left to settle for 2-3 min
and cooked at 45-46:C. After 30 min, the curds are mouolded, pressed and tranched to facilitate whey
drainage. Cheeses are dry-salted periodically for 30-60 days and ripened at 10-14:C for 5-8 months
(Battistotti and Corradini, 1993). Cheeses are cyliandrical in shape, 25-32 cm high and 25-35 cm in
diameter,and weigh 20-35 kg. Flavour is a slightly piquant for cheeses ripened for 5 months, and piquant
and very strong for older cheese. The average composition is dry nmatter (DM), 68-70%; fat 28-30%;
protein 28,0-29,5%; NaCl 3,2 4,5%.
Changes in the main microbial groups during ripening have been studied (Deiana et al. 1984).
Staphylococcus, Micrococcus and yeasts are the main seconmdary microflora of traditional cheeses,
with Debaryomyces hansenii and Kluyveromyces marxianus as the dominant yeasts (Deiana et.al. 1997).
Cheese pH 24 h after manufacture is 4,9-5,0 and DM, 58,6-59,6%; after 8 months, the pH is 5,6-5,9 and
DM is 63,7-67,6%. Proteolysis proceeds slowly due to its high NaCl content and its low moisture, witrh
23% pH 4,6 soluble N and 18% TCA-soluble N as a precentage of total N in 8-month-old cheeses.
Sensorial characteristrics of Pecorino Romano depend mainly on the lipolysis caused by the PGE in the
lamb rennet paste. Free fatty acids range from 467 mg/kg (c8) to 1181 mg/kg (C6), distributed in the
order C6>C4>C10>C8. Butanoic and hexanoic acids provide