chapter 5

S o l v i n g Pro bl ems
"Before They Gro w
~W~V
r
~7'ben Shirley showed me how to cast on, she was teaching me
r r to solve some knitting problems before they grow. It's a way of
looking at problem-solving globally rather than locally. Or heading off
annoying and time-consuming problems, like ripping off cast-on edges,
before they start.
5 1
52 Knit Fix
Casting On
Cable Cast-On
The cast-o n S hi rl ey demo n strated
was the cabl e cast-o n . It i s by f ar the
mo st usef ul cast-o n . I use i t fo r perhaps
90 percen t o f my pro jects. It's easy to
do . It g i v es a n eat, f i n i s hed edg e o n
ei ther si de. It can be stretched, whi ch
so lv es a l o t o f pro bl ems when casti n g
o n yarn s that hav e n o g iv e.
Here's ho w to do i t:
I
Make a sl i pkn o t an d pl ace i t o n
the l eft n eedl e (Fi g ures 1-3). Thi s
i s yo ur f i rst sti tch.
Kn i t in to the fi rst sti tch (Fig ure 4).
Figure I: Slipknot Step I
Figure 2: Slipknot
Step 2
Figure 3: First cast-on stitch
Figure 4: Knit into firsj/stitch
3
Lo o sen yo ur ten si o n an d use the
ri g ht n eedl e to pul l the s ti tch
wi de (Fi g ure 5).
5
.
Figure 5: Pull stitch wide
4
Wi th the l ef t n eedl e, pi ck up the
wi den ed sti tch f ro m un dern eath
the f ro n t l eg (Fi g ure 6).
Figure 6: Place loop on left needle
Solving Problems Before They Grow 5 3
5
Remo v e t he ri g ht n eedl et w o
sti tches hav e been cast o n .
6
\ X ~ i t h t he n eedl e mo v i n g as i f
t o kn i t , i n s er t t he ri g ht n eedl e
between the f i rst two sti tches o n the
l ef t n eedl e (Fi g ure 7).
Figure 7: Place needle
between two stitches
7
Wrap the yarn aro un d the ti p o f
the ri g ht n eedl e as i f to kn i t an d
bri n g the n ew l o o p f o rward between
the f i rst two sti tches to make a sti tch.
Lo o s en y o ur ten si o n ag ai n an d use
the ri g ht n eedl e to pul l the n ew sti tch
wi de. Bri n g the l eft n eedl e un dern eath
the f ro n t l eg to pi ck up the sti tch.
Remo v e t h e r i g h t n e e dl e t h r e e
sti tches hav e been cast o n .
Repeat S teps 6 an d 7 un ti l yo u hav e
cast o n the desired n umber o f stitches.
No ti ce that when yo u pl ace each
n ew s ti tch o n the n eedl e i ts l ef t l eg
may be f o rw ard. Odd, but co rrect .
Kn i t i t as i t appears.
A few tricks for neat, even
stitches
1
Tighten the stitch on the left needle only
after you've inserted the needle between
two stitches to cast on the next stitch. It's eas-
ier to get the right needle between the exist-
ing stitches when the tension is a little loose.
Tightening the yarn after placing the needle
also makes sure that needle size determines
stitch size.
'""I Between Steps 6 and 7, place the pad of
Cyour left index finger on top of the last cast-
on stitch, then tighten the stitch next to your
fingertip (Figure 8).
Figure 8: Tighten the stitch
Casting on for ribbing
If you're using smaller-gauge yarn, such as
for socks, there's an easy version of the cable
cast-on that adds a nice touch. If you want to
work in kl, pi rib, cast on every other stitch by
placing the needle in Step 6 as if to purl (Figure
9). This works particularly well for sock cuffs.
Figure 9: Place needle between
two stitches as if to purl
Solving Problems "Before They Grow 53
5
Remo v e the tv g ,V v t ueedV etwo
sti tches hav e been cast o n .
6
Wi t h t he n eedl e mo v i n g as i f
to kn i t , i n s ert the ri g ht n eedl e
between the f i rst two sti tches o n the
l ef t n eedl e (Fi g ure 7).
Figure 7: Place needle
between two stitches
7
Wrap the yarn aro un d the ti p o f
the ri g ht n eedl e as i f to kn i t an d
bri n g the n ew l o o p f o rward between
the f i rst two sti tches to make a sti tch.
Lo o sen y o ur ten s i o n ag ai n an d us e
the ri g ht n eedl e to pul l the n ew sti tch
wide. Brin g the l eft n eedl e un dern eath
the f ro n t l eg to pi ck up the s t i t ch.
Remo v e t he r i g h t n e e dl e t h r e e
sti tches hav e been cast o n .
Repeat S teps 6 an d 7 un ti l yo u hav e
cast o n the desi red n umber o f sti tches.
No ti ce that when yo u pl ace each
n ew sti tch o n the n eedl e i ts l ef t l eg
may be f o rw ard. Odd, but co rrect .
Kn i t i t as i t appears.
A few tricks for neat, even
stitches
1
Tighten the stitch on the left needle on/y
after you've inserted the needle between
two stitches to cast on the next stitch. It's eas-
ier to get the right needle between the exist-
ing stitches when the tension is a little loose.
Tightening the yarn after placing the needle
also makes sure that needle size determines
stitch size.
|Between Steps 6 and 7, place the pad of
diyour left index finger on top of the last cast-
on stitch, then tighten the stitch next to your
fingertip (Figure 8).
Figure 8: Tighten the stitch
Casting on for ribbing
If you're using smaller-gauge yarn, such as
for socks, there's an easy version of the cable
cast-on that adds a nice touch. If you want to
work in kl, pi rib, cast on every other stitch by
placing the needle in Step 6 as if to purl (Figure
9). This works particularly well for sock cuffs.
Figure 9: Place needle between
two stitches as if to purl
54 Knit Fix
I
Long-Tail Cast-On
The l o n g -tai l cast-o n do esn 't pro -
duce an edg e as fin ished-lo o kin g as the
cabl e cast-o n , so I ten d to av o i d i t o n
shawl s, scarv es, po n cho s, o r o n edg es
that wi l l sho w. Thi s cast-o n al ways
remi n ds me o f cat's cradl e, that stri n g
g ame we use to pl ay as ki ds.
1
Fi g ure o ut ho w lo n g the tai l sho ul d
be by wrappi n g the yarn aro un d
the n eedl e o n ce fo r each sti tch yo u'l l
be casti n g o n .
2
Make a sl i pkn o t an d pf aee i t o n
the n eedl e as i n S tep 1 of the
cabl e cast-o n .
3
Drape the l o n g tai l to the l ef t o f
yo ur l ef t thumb an d the wo rki n g
yarn (attached to the bal l ) aro un d to
the ri g ht o f y o ur i n dex f i n g er. Ho l d
the tai l an d wo rki n g yarn to g ether
between yo ur remai n i n g f i n g ers an d
yo ur pal m. Yo u sho ul d be l o o ki n g at a
tri an g l e o f yarn (Fi g ure 10).
4
Wi th the n eedl e i n yo ur ri g ht
han d, di p the po i n t un der the
l o o p at t he f r o n t o f y o ur t h um b
(Fi g ure 11).
Then b ri n g the n eedl e ti p o v er
the yarn run n i n g to the l ef t o f yo ur
i n de x f i n g e r a n d p us h i t do w n
thro ug h the l o o p aro un d yo ur thumb
(Fi g ure 12).
Figure 10: Yarn position for long-tail cast-on
\
Figure 1 1 : Dip needle under thumb loop
Figure 12: Move needle over running yarn
and down through thumb loop
Solving Problems Before They Grow 55
5
Back yo ur thumb o ut o f the lo o p
an d use i t to ti g hten the sti tch
yo u'v e jus t made (Fi g ure 13).
Figure 1 3: Remove thumb and
tighten stitch
6
Tuck yo ur thumb back un der the
tai l to beg i n the n ext sti tch.
Wi th a l i ttl e practi ce, yo u'l l n o ti ce
that S teps 5 an d 6 can be co mbi n ed
i n to o n e f l ui d mo ti o n . Thi s i n sures
a co n s i s ten t t en s i o n , wi th cas t-o n
sti tches o f equal si ze.
If y o ur cas t-o n i s to o t i g ht , g o
ahead an d cast o n usi n g a l arg er n ee-
dl e, then kn i t the f i rst ro w wi th the
co rrect si ze n eedl e.

P ROBLEM: I just cast o n , but n o w

I'v e kn i t t ed l ess than a ro w an d I'm
o ut o f yarn .
DIAGNOSIS: The en d o f the yarn
yo u'v e used f o r yo ur cast-o n can dan -
g l e there an d i n v i te yo u to pi ck i t up
an d kn i t wi th i t, l eav i n g the wo rki n g
yarn behi n d.
|FIX : Un kn i t o r un rav el back
^^to the pl ace where yo u pi cked
up the tai l , then rekn i t wi th the wo rk-
i n g yarn .
Next time: Tie a bow with the end of
the tail; curl it up and secure it with a
safety pin; hang something on itdo
something to make sure your fingers
don't pick it up accidentally. Or cut it
to about six inches, long enough to
weave in when you're finished.
Backward Loop Cast-On
The si mpl e cast-o n , al so kn o wn as
the backward loop cast-o n , is the easi-
est to teach an d l earn , an d the mo st
usel ess. It l o o ks g reat o n the n eedl e,
but as so o n as the f i rst sti tch i s kn i t,
i t beg i n s to fal l apart. It has v ery little
stabi l i ty as a cast-o n edg e. If yo u use
the si mpl e cast-o n bef o re jo i n i n g i n
the ro un d f o r a bag o r so ck, i t's n earl y
impo ssible to kn o w fo r sure whether
the sti tches are twi sted.
Ho wev er, t hi s s i mpl e cas t -o n
wo rks fo r addi n g sti tches i n the mi ddl e
o f a row, o r a few stitches at the en d o f
a ro w. Here's ho w to make i t:
56 Knit Fix
I
Ho ld the n eedle i n yo ur rig ht han d.
Lo o p the wo rki n g yarn o v er yo ur
l ef t f o ref i n g er wi th the yarn run n i n g
i n f ro n t o f the l o o p (Fi g ure 14).
Jus t do n 't us e i t f o r a n y t hi n g
besi des addi n g a f ew sti tches.
Figure 1 5 : Place loop
on needle
Figure 14: Loop working yarn
/over finger
2
Place the loop o n the n eedle (Fig-
ure 15) an d ti g hten (Fi g ure 16).
Repeat S tep 2 un ti l yo u hav e cast
o n as man v sti tches as yo u n eed.
Figure 16: Tighten loop
Joining New Yarn
Ev en tually, you will get to the end of
yo ur bal l o f yarn an d n eed to start a n ew
o n e. Do n 't kn o t. Resist the urg e. Tyin g
kn o ts creates al l ki n ds o f un n ecessary
pro bl ems. When the kn i tted g armen t i s
wo rn , yarn kn o ts ei ther po ke thro ug h
to the ri g ht side o r en d up maki n g the
wearer feel l i ke the ti tl e character i n
The Princess and the Pea. S imilarly, i f
yo u run acro ss a kn o t where the man u-
f acturer jo i n ed two stran ds (they're
allo wed to ), yo u'l l wan t to cut o ut that
kn o t an d treat the remai n der o f the bal l
as if it were a n ew ball.
If yo u're wo rki n g back an d f o rth i n
fl at pieces, start a n ew ball at the side o f
the wo rk if at all po ssible. To f i g ure o ut
whether yo u hav e en o ug h yarn o n the
old bal l to make it thro ug h o n e mo re
ro w, measure the remai n i n g l en g th o f
yarn to see if it is six times the width of
the wo rk. If less than six widths remai n ,
do n o t start the n ew row, but in stead cut
a tail abo ut 6" (15 cm) long and save the
rest fo r sewin g the g armen t to g ether.
If yo u're wo rki n g i n the ro un d,
there wo n 't be a side seam. Try to jo i n
the n ew bal l at the beg i n n i n g o f the
ro un d, whi ch wi l l usual l y f al l at the
un derarm o r back. Ag ai n , do n 't kn o t.
To jo i n the n ew ball, place the rig ht
n eedl e i n the n ext pattern sti tch to
kn i t o r purl (fo l l o wi n g the establ i shed
pattern ). Wrap the n ew yarn aro un d
Figure 17: Join new yarn at
side of work
Figure 18: join new yarn at
beginning of round
;. Groit 57
t he n eedl e an d co n t i n ue kn i t t i n g as
usual (Fi g ures 1~ an d 18).
Af t er yo u'v e wo rked wel l i n to the
ro w o r ro un d an d yo ur sti tches seem
s ecure, ti g hten the tai l s o f the n ew
an d o l d yarn s jus t en o ug h so that the
sti tches n ear the jo i n aren 't l o o se an d
sloppy, but n o t so much that the f abri c
puckers.
If yo u must jo i n n ew yarn i n the
mi ddl e o f yo ur wo rk, be sure to bury
the tai l s as yo u^g o (see bo x o n pag e 47).
Thi s weaves i n the en ds o n the rev erse
side o f the w6rk, securi n g them o v er a
wide area. This reduces the chan ces o f
a ho le deyelo pin g l ater.
Working in the
Round
When pattern s bl i thel y an n o un ce
"an d jo i n i n the ro un d," there's g o o d
n ews an d bad n ews. The g o o d n ews
i s that yo u'l l o n l y be kn i tti n g o n the
o uts i de o f the f ab ri c. S to cki n ette
sti tch? In the ro un d, i t's kn i t ev ery
sti tch, ev ery row. The bad news is that
yo u mus t be caref ul ab o ut the jo i n .
B ecause kn i tti n g i n the ro un d bui l ds
co n cen tri c sti tch ci rcl es o n e o n to p o f
an o ther, i f the ro w o f cast-o n sti tches
i s twi sted ev en o n ce bef o re the jo i n ,
yo u'l l f i n d yo ursel f kn i tti n g a Mo bi us
stri p i n stead o f a so ck o r hat o r f el ted
bag o r pul l o v er sweater.
When m a ki n g a pr o je c t t ha t
requi res jo i n i n g i n the ro un d, cho o se
the type o f cast-o n careful l y. My pref-
eren ce here i s fo r ei ther the cable o r
lo n g -tail cast-o n (see pag e 52 an d 54).
Bo th pro duce a den n ed edg e, maki n g
it easy to see whether the stitches are
lyin g f l atun twi stedo n the n eedl e
befo re jo i n i n g (Fig ure 19).
Figure 19: Cable cast-on
joined into round
58 Knit Fix
Joining to Work in the Round
P R O B L E M : I cas t o n f o r a pi ece
t hat 's made i n the ro un d, but n o w i t
l o o ks l i ke a fi g ure eig ht (Fi g ure 20).
Figure 20: Mobius cast-on
DI AGNOSI S: On e wo man I kn o w
used the backward l o o p cast-o n f o r a
f el ted to te bag made o f three di f f eren t
f i bers kn i t to g ether. Wi tho ut kn o wi n g
i t, she'd twi sted the base ro w bef o re
jo i n i n g to kn i t i n the ro un d (Fi g ure
21). S he kn i tted ei g ht i n ches, assum-
i n g that the twist i n her kn i tti n g wo uld
un twi st o n ce she to o k the n eedl es o ut.
Tro ubl e i s, a twi st i n the cast-o n per-
man en tl y twi sts an ythi n g kn i t i n the
ro un d.
C J FIX : In t he cas e o f t hi s
^^wo man an d her bag , she had
two cho i ces: ri p o ut an d start o v er, o r
settl e f o r a bag -based o n the Mo bi us
strip. I v o texf fo r the l attera Mo bius
bag co ul d be a wo rk o f ar t b ut she
was mo re co n serv ati v e. An d i f yo u're
maki n g a sweater, a hat, o r an y pi ece
that n eeds tci be a tube, the o n l y way
to make i t f i g ht i s to un rav el i t co m-
pl etel y an d beg i n wi th a n ew cast-o n .
P R O B L E M : T h e r e ' s a b i g g a p
where I jo i n ed to wo rk i n the ro un d
(Fi g ure 22).
Figure 22: Gap at join
Figure 21 : Twisted cast-on
Solving Problems Before They Grow 59
DI AGNOSI S: There's a l o n g , l o o se
sti tch that leav es a hug e g ap at the en d
o f the ro un d.
r J FI X : Thi s happen s al l the
^ ^ti me, es peci al l y w i t h s o cks
kn i t t ed o n do ub l e-po i n ted n eedl es
f ro m cuf f to to e. Try tradi n g the po si -
ti o n s o f the f i rs t an d l ast sti tches i n
the ro un d.
I
Mo v e t he f i r s t s t i t c h o f f t he
l ef t n eedl e o n to a spare n eedl e
A
(Fi g ure 23).
Figure 23: Move first stitch
onto a spare needle
Mo v e the l ast sti tch f ro m the ri g ht
n eedl e o n to the l eft (Fi g ure 24).
Figure 24: Last stitch from right
needle moved onto left needle
3
Fi n al l y, pl ace the sti tch f ro m the
spare n eedl e o n to the ri g ht n eedl e
(Fi g ure 25).
Figure 25: Move stitch from
spare needle onto left needle
On the n ext ro w, wo rk the stitches
i n thei r n ew o rder. The g ap wi l l hav e
v an i shed.
60 Knit Rx
Buttonholes
The bi g g es t pro b l em wi th kn i t -
ted butto n ho l es i s that they stretch.
To av o id butto n s that un f asten them-
selves when yo u're n o t lo o kin g , stick
to the si mpl e o n e-sti tch butto n ho l e
(Fi g ure 26): make a yarn o v er at the
po i n t where yo u wan t the butto n ho l e
(Fi g ur e 27), t hen o n the n ext ro w
wo rk the yarn o v er to g ether wi th the
n ext stitch (Fig ure 28).
The thi cker the yarn , the l arg er
the butto n ho l e, an d v ice v ersa.
Make buttonholes before buy-
ing buttons. Buying buttons first just
tempts fate. Take your finished piece
to the yarn stored lay it out on a table,
and try every button that attracts your
fancy, pushing Yt through the button-
hole. Choose a button that seems just
a tad big for the hole. When the owner
of the cardigan buttons up against the
cold, your creation will stay buttoned.
Always a good thing.
Figure 26: Finished buttonhole
Figure 27: Buttonhole
yarnover
Figure 28: Work buttonhole
yarnover with next stitch
'
Solving Problems "Before They Grow 61
Picking Up
Stitches
Man y pattern s will tell yo u to pick
up stitches fo r co l l ars, sleev es, edg i n g s,
an d so ck g ussets. Un fo rtun atel y, few o f
the pattern s tel l yo u ho w o r where to
pi ck them up.
" Pi ck up sti tches," " pi ck up an d
kn i t" an d "kn it up stitches" usually mean
the same thi n g : addi n g liv e sti tches to
an edg e where there were n o n e befo re.
Reg ard di recti o n s to pi ck up an d kn i t
the same way yo u respo n d to a yello w
traf f i c l i g ht: slow do wn an d make yo ur
o wn decisio n based o n what's g o in g o n
i n bo th di recti o n s. Yo ur ai m i s to pi ck
up an d kn i t an even l i n e o f stitches. On
a fin ished sweater o r so ck o r an y mo du-
l ar pattern (thi n k mi tered squares),
i f yo u pi ck up an d kn i t caref ul l y, the
fi n i shed pro duct wi l l l o o k l i ke a wo rk
o f art rather than something made with
lo v in g han ds at ho me.
To pi ck up an d kn i t , y o u'l l o n l y
n eed o n e kn i tti n g n eedl e. Beg i n at the
ri g ht edg e an d wo rk to the l ef t.
1
Pl ace the n eedl e thro ug h a sti tch
at the ri g ht edg e (Fi g ure 29).
2
Wrap the yarn aro un d the n eedl e
as i f to kn i t an d pul l the l o o p
t hr o ug h the g ar men t (Fi g ure 30).
Yo u'v e made a n ew sti tch that wi l l stay
o n the n eedl e i n yo ur ri g ht han d.
Figure 29: Insert needle
into edge
Figure 30: Make the stitch
Repeat S teps 1 an d 2 un t i l the
co rrect n umb er o f sti tches has been
pi cked up an d kn i tted.
Ho wev er, i t's where yo u pi ck up
an d kn i t that's cruci al . Ev ery sti tch
pat t ern creates a di f f eren t co mbi n a-
ti o n o f edg e sti tches. Rul e: Un l ess the
di recti o n s tel l yo u o therwi se, pi ck up
an d kn i t sti tches wi th the ri g ht side o f
the wo rk faci n g yo u.
To pi ck up an d kn i t o n a ho ri zo n -
tal edg e, where yo ur n ew sti tches wi l l
f ace i n the same di recti o n as the o l d
o n es, i n sert the ri g ht n eedl e i n to the
mi ddl e o f a sti tch o n the ro w bel o w
the b o un d-o f f o r abo v e the cast-o n
edg e, as i l l ustrated abo v e.
To pi ck up an d kn i t o n a v erti cal
edg e, where yo ur n ew sti tches wi l l be
perpen di cul ar to the o l d o n es, l o o k
careful l y at the edg e o f the fabri c. Some
pattern s speci fy slippin g the fi rst sti tch
o f ev ery ro w, whi ch makes a smo o th
62 Knit Fix
edge that looks like a braid (Figure 31).
It's v ery easy to pick up an d kn i t stitches
f ro m a slipped-stitch v ertical edge. Even
if the pattern do esn 't say to slip that first
stitch, do it. It makes picking up stitches
so much easier.
Mo re o f ten , yo u'l l be pi cki n g up
f ro m an edg e that has a series o f lo o ps
and bumps (Figure 32).
Try to pick up thro ug h the lo o ps,
between the bumps (Fi g ure 33). It's
easi er an d wi l l g iv e a smo o ther, mo re
fin ished lo o k.
Pl an ahead. If the pattern sug-
gests that yo u pick up an d kn i t a spe-
ci f i c n umber o f sti tches o v er a l o n g
di stan cesay, up o n e f ro n t edg e o f a
cardi g an , aro un d the n eck, do wn the
opposite edg eco un t the edge stitches
between the bumps. Chan ces are, the
n um b e r o f pi cked-up s ti tches t hat
the pattern speci f i es i s wi thi n a f ew
stitches o f the n umber o f loops yo u're
actually seeing o n yo ur sweater. But to
g et the exact n umber o f sti tches, yo u
may n eed to pi ck up an d kn i t i n si de a
few purl bumps. Or yo u may n eed to
skip a few edg e stitches.
Whatev er yo u do , be co n si sten t i n
ho w yo u pi ck up an d kn i t sti tches. In
speci fyi n g the n umber o f stitches to
pick up, pattern writers are o ften really
tellin g yo u to pick up an d kn i t o n e n ew
stitch fo r ev ery o l d stitch o n ho ri zo n tal
edges an d two stitches fo r every three
ro ws o n v erti cal o r slo ped edg es, in
o rder to make the n eckl i n e o r arm-
ho le l i e fl at. Fo r the mo st part, take the
pattern 's specified n umber o f picked-up
stitches as a suggestion, n o t in structio n s
written in stone. (For mitered squares or
en trel ac, n umbers o f picked-up stitches
are n o n -n eg o ti abl e. If yo u chan g e the
picked-up n umbers, yo u'l l chan g e the
size of the module.)
Figure 33: Pick up and knit in loops
PROBLEM: Pickin g up an d kn i tti n g
the edg e stitch leav es an un attracti v e
ho l e (Fi g ure 34).
A
: a
Figure 3 1 : Slipped-
stitch edge
Solving Problems "Before They Grow 63
J FIX : Yo u may n eed to pick up
^^^an d kn i t the stitch i n a few di ffer-
en t places to fin d the position that looks
ri g ht. Ho w can yo u tell? By do in g it. If
yo u pick up several stitches only to fi n d
a g ap o r hole between the pick-up an d
the edge, pull the rig ht needle back an d
dro p the o ffen di n g stitches, then reposi-
ti o n the n eedle an d try ag ain .
Try pi cki n g up an d kn i t t i n g the
sti tch f arther bel o w the edg e. Pi cki n g
up a stitch i n si de a bump mi g ht tig hten
up the ho l e. Rul e: Cl o se an y ho l es
(Fi g ure 35). If yo u en d up pi cki n g up
a f ew mo re o r l ess sti tches than the
pattern cal l s f o r i n o rder to make the
edg e smo o th an d ho l e-free, that's fi n e.
Just be co n si sten t wi th the n umb er
o f sti tches pi cked upf o r exampl e,
o n a cardi g an , the pi cked-up sti tches
alo n g the n eckl i n e f ro m f ro n t edg e to
sho ulder seam sho uld be the same o n
l eft an d ri g ht sides. Or i f yo u're pick-
i n g up stitches aro un d a v est armho l e,
make sure to take n o te o f the n umber
pi cked up fo r the fi rst armho l e so that
yo u can pi ck up an equal n umber o n
the seco n d armho l e.
P ROB L E M: I pi cked up an d kn i t-
ted the speci f i ed n umber o f sti tches
fo r the sock g usset, but there's a ho le
(Fig ure 36).
L J FIX : Pi ck up an d kn i t the
^^^n umber o f sti tches that the pat-
tern specifies along the edge o f the heel
f l ap mi n us o n e. Then pick up an d kn i t
the sl an ted sti tch i n the g ap between
t he f l a p a n d t he i n s t e p s t i t c he s
(Fig ure 37).
Figure 36: Pick-up slanted stitch in sock gusset
Figure 37: Sock gusset without hole, after slant
pick-up
Figure 35: Gapless pick-up
64 Kn i t Fi x
Errata
P ROB L E M: I'v e checked the pattern
over an d over an d over, an d so methin g 's
jus t n o t ri g ht. The n umbers do n 't add
up, o r the piece takes an un expected
turn that i sn 't sho wn i n the pi cture.
DI AGNO S I S : In kn i t t i n g a s i n
l i f e, the f i rst ti me yo u try so methi n g
i t pro babl y l o o ks wro n g an d f eel s
un co mf o rtabl e. Do they really mean
f o r me to do i t thi s way? Try i tmake
a l eap o f f ai th, f o l l o w the di recti o n s,
an d see what yo u g et. The desi g n er
may i n tro duce yo u to a cool n ew tech-
n i que. Yo u can al ways un rav el i f i t's
n o t ri g ht.
B ut so meti mes the pattern i s jus t
pl ai n wro n g . Af t er al l , desi g n ers an d
pro o freaders are "n early n o rmal " like
the rest o f us, an d despi te thei r best
ef f o rts, a mi stake so meti mes slips i n .
CJ FIX : If yo u'v e checked an d
^^do ubl e-checked bo th the pat-
tern an d the sti tches o n yo ur n eedl es,
an d the n umbers sti l l do n 't add up o r
so methi n g lo o ks real l y wro n g , i t's ti me
to thi n k abo ut "errata." Errata are the
l i ttl e mi stakes that creep i n to pattern s,
an d depen di n g o n where the pattern
was pub l i s hed, there are a n umb er
o f pl aces to l o o k f o r co rrecti o n s. In
bo o ks, they mi g ht be o n the co mpa-
n y 's webs i te; i n mag azi n es t hey 're
o f ten i n the n ext i ssue as wel l as o n
the websi te; i n Web pattern s they may
be updated o n l i n e as they are f o un d.
If yo u suspect an erro r i n a pattern ,
ask aro un d at yo ur l o cal yarn sto re o r
kn i tti n g g ro up, try a Web search o n
the pattern n ame pl us errata, o r cal l
the publ i sher di rectl y.
As y o u b eco me mo re experi -
en ced, yo u'l l l earn when to trust yo ur
i n sti n cts.
Solving Problems Before They Grow 65
Binding Off
B i n di n g o f f o r casti n g o f f f asten s
liv e sti tches o f f yo ur n eedl es. Lucki l y,
there are o n l y a f ew v ari ati o n s.
Standard Bind-Off
I
Wi th the ri g ht side o f the piece fac-
i n g yo u, kn i t the fi rst two stitches.
No ti ce that the wo rki n g yarn i s i n the
back as usual .
2
B ri n g the l ef t n eedl e i n f ro n t o f
the ri g ht an d use the po i n t to l i f t
the f ro n t l eg o f the f i rst sti tch yo u kn i t-
ted (Fi g ure 38).
Figure 38: Lift front leg of first stitch
\
3
P ul l t he f i r s t s t i t c h o v er t he
seco n d o n e an d dro p i t o ff the en d
o f the n eedl e (Fi g ure 39)o n e sti tch
has been b o un d o f f , an d o n e s ti tch
remai n s o n the ri g ht n eedl e.
4
Kn i t a n ew s ti tch, so t hat o n ce
ag ai n there are two sti tches o n
the ri g ht n eedl e.
Repeat S teps 2-4 un ti l o n e stitch
r e m a i n s . Cut t h e w o r ki n g y a r n ,
remo v e the last stitch f ro m the n eedle,
an d pass the cut tai l thro ug h the l o o p
o f that last sti tch. Pul l the en d o f the
cut tai l g en tl y whi l e pushi n g the kn o t
do wn to wards the wo rk (Fi g ure 40).
Figure 40: Push knot down
Purl Bind-Off
If the stitches yo u n eed to bin d o ff
are purl s, yo u'l l fo l l o w the same pro ce-
dure wi th a co upl e o f mi n o r chan g es.
I
Purl the f i rst two sti tches. No ti ce
y o ur w o r ki n g y ar n i s i n f r o n t
o f the ri g ht n eedl e as us ual when
purl i n g .
B ri n g the l ef t n eedl e behi n d the
ri g ht an d sl i p the po i n t o f l ef t
Figure 39: One stitch bound off
66 Knit Fix
n eedl e un der the back leg o f the f i rst
sti tch yo u purl ed (Fi g ure 41).
Figure 41 : Purl bind-off, Step 2
P ul l t he f i r s t s t i t ch o v er t he
seco n d an d dro p i t o ff the en d o f the
ri g ht n eedleo n e purl stitch has been
bo un d o f f , an d o n e sti tch remai n s o n
the rig ht n eedle.
A Purl an o ther sti tch.
Repeat S teps 2-4 un ti l o n e stitch
remai n s, then cut the yarn an d secure
it as fo r bi n di n g o ff kn i t stitches.
P ROBLEM: The pattern s says "bi n d
o ff i n pattern ." What's that mean ?
DI AGNO S I S : When t h e pat t er n
says "bi n d o f f i n pattern ," i t mean s
to bi n d o ff the kn i t sti tches kn i twi se
an d the purl sti tches purl wi se, as yo u
see them o n the n eedl e. To bi n d o ff
an y co mbi n ati o n o f kn i ts an d purl s ,
thro w yo ur yarn to the back f o r a kn i t
sti tch an d cast o ff f ro m the f ro n t o f
the n eedl e; thro w the yarn to the f ro n t
fo r purl s an d cast o ff f ro m the back o f
the n eedl e.
PROBLEM: The bo un d-o f f edg e i s
ti g hter than the prev i o us kn i t ro ws.
DI AGNOSI S: The stan dard bi n d-
o ff i s n o t el asti c an d en ti rel y to o easy
to wo rk ti g htl y, whi ch creates pi eces
ti g hter acro ss the bo un d-o ff edge than
they sho ul d be (Fi g ure 42).
Ptp^l
i ,t ****y ~ '
^Jv k^mX TOKw
Figure 42: Tight bind-off
If y o u'v e ev er kn i t t ed a s carf
that seems to co me to a po i n t o n the
bo un d-o f f si de, yo u're f ami l i ar wi th
the co n cept.
JFIX : Bi n d o f f usi n g a l arg er
^" ^n eedl e o f two n eedl es hel d
to g ether i n yo ur ri g ht han d.
1
^."^J
:
4
o
Q >
Solving Problems "Before They Grow 67
SSK Bind-Off
Lace pattern s, o r an ythi n g wo rked
o n n eedl es sev eral si zes bi g g er than
the yarn wo ul d n o rmal l y requi re, can
ben ef i t f ro m thi s mo re el asti c cast-
o f f . I t hi n k o f i t as the ssk b i n d-o f f ,
because the n eedl e man i pul ati o n i s
exactl y the same as used f o r the sl i p-
slip-kn it decrease.
On a ri g ht-si de ro w,
1
Kn i t two sti tches.
2
Pl ace the ti p o f the l ef t n eedl e
un de r t he f r o n t l eg s o f b o t h
sti tches f ro m l ef t to ri g ht (Fi g ure 43).
Figure,43: Place needle for ssk bind-off
3
Wrap the yarn aro un d ri g ht n eedl e
an d kn i t these two stitches to g ether
thro ug h thei r back l o o pso n e sti tch
has been bo un d o ff an d o n e remai n s o n
the ri g ht n eedle.
A Kn i t the n ext sti tch.
Repeat S teps 2-4 un ti l o n e sti tch
remai n s, then cut the yarn an d secure
i t as f o r the stan dard bi n d-o f f .
SSP Bind-Off
Yo u can g et a si mi l ar el asti c edg e
o n a purl ro w by purl i n g i n stead o f
kn i tti n g .
1
Purl two sti tches.
2
B ri n g the l ef t n eedl e i n back o f
the ri g ht n eedl e an d i n sert the ti p
un der the back l eg s o f bo th sti tches
f ro m l ef t to ri g ht (Fi g ure 44).
Figure 44: Place needle for ssp bind-off
3
Wrap the yarn an d purl these two
sti tches to g ethero n e sti tch has
been bo un d o f f an d o n e remai n s o n
the ri g ht n eedl e.
A Purl the n ext sti tch.
Repeat S teps 2-4 un ti l o n e sti tch
remai n s, then cut the yarn an d secure
i t as f o r the stan dard bi n d-o f f .
68 Knit FK
Putting It
Together
Do n 't cut co rn ers when it co mes to
putti n g yo ur kn i tted sweater to g ether.
Take the ti me to pi n the pieces to g ether
an d make sure the seams are strai g ht
an d ev en . Li ke pi ck up an d kn i t, thi s i s
a pl ace where caref ul wo rk pays o f f .
P R O B L E M: The f ro n t si des o f my
sweater are l o n g er than the si des o f
the back.
DI AGNOSI S: S o meti mes, despi te
yo ur best ef f o rts , yo u'l l f i n d that two
pieces aren 't the same l en g thyo u may
hav e relaxed yo ur ten si o n , pro duci n g a
l o o ser g aug e, si mpl y kn i tted an extra
ro w o r two , o r so meti mes a sti tch pat-
tern han g s lo n g er o n , say, the l ef t edg e
than the ri g ht edg e (thi s happen ed to
me recen tl y o n a dai sy-l ace cardi g an ).
C J FI X : Ma t c h t h e s h o r t e r
^^piece to the l o n g er o n e by eas-
i n g i n the f abri c whi l e pi n n i n g the
pi eces to g ether, then sew.
I f i n d i t us e f ul to do t hi s o n a
f l at surf ace. Fo r strai g ht edg essi de
an d sl eev e seams, rectan g ul ar bag s,
pi l l o ws match an d pi n the bo tto m
co rn ers wi th ri g ht si des t o g et her.
Next, match an d pi n the to p edg es
(o n g armen ts, usual l y the base o f the
armho l e). Match an d pi n at an y po i n t
o n the edg es where there's a chan g e
f ro m o n e sti tch pattern to an o ther so
that ri bbi n g , stri pes, o r o ther pattern s
match at the seam. Pi n the mi dpo i n t
o f the seam.
Wo rki n g f i rs t between the cen -
ter pi n an d the b o t t o m edg e, t hen
between the cen ter pi n an d to p edg e,
pi n the remai n i n g f ab ri c at reg ul ar
i n terv al s, bal an ci n g the extra f abri c
between the pi n s thi s i s cal l ed eas-
ing in the fabric. Co n ti n ue to add pi n s
hal f way between exi sti n g pi n s, whi ch
wi l l smo o th o ut the extra f abri c, un ti l
pi n s are a f ew i n ches apart.
When y o u're s at i s f i ed t hat t he
seam wi l l be smo o th, thread the yarn
yo u'l l use f o r seami n g o n a tapes try
n eedl e an d use a mat t res s sti tch o r
b acks t i t ch to sew the seam. If yo u
cho o s e m at t r es s s t i t ch, i t may be
n ecessary to pielc up mo re sti tches o n
/
the l o n g er piece to match the sho rter
piece, but i f yo u can match yo ur seam
to the way the f abri c was pi n n ed, yo ur
pi eces wi l l match up.
Solving Problems "Before They Grow 69
Armholes and Sleeve Caps
Yo u may al so n eed to ease i n the
f abri c to attach the sleev es to yo ur
sweater. Thi s can be di f f i cul t to v i sual -
i ze because yo u're jo i n i n g two curv ed
pi eces.
S ew the sho ul der seams to g ether.
Lay the sweater o n a f l at surf ace wi th
the ri g ht si des o f the f ro n t an d back
f aci n g up so that the sho ul der seams
l i e f l at (Fi g ure 45).
Fold the top edge of the sleeve cap
i n hal f an d mark the mi dpo i n t (the cen -
ter o f the sleeve cap) wi th a pi n . Un fo l d
the cap an d with right sides together,
match the pi n n ed cen ter o f the sleeve
cap to the sho ul der seam. The wro n g
side o f the sleeve wi l l be lyin g cen tered
BACK
(right side)
J
\
FRONT
(right side)
V
Figure 45: Lay out the sweater with the right sides up

m
*fe
8^
70 Knit Fix
al o n g the sho ul der seam (Fi g ure 46).
Un f o l d the sleeve so i ts ri g ht side i s f ac-
i n g up an d caref ul l y repl ace the cen ter
pi n i n the same l o cati o n .
Next, pi n the l o wer edg es o f the
cap to the l o wer edg e o f the armho l es
(Fi g ure 47). Eas e i n the cap as yo u
add pi n s at reg ul ar i n terv al s un ti l the
f abri c o f the sl eev e cap i s ev en l y di s-
tri buted aro un d the armho l e (Fi g ure
48), then sew the pi eces to g ether.
Figure 46: Unfold the sleeve, matching
the center to the shouMer seam
Figure 47: Pin edges of sleeve cap to edges
of armhole
~ .:

Figure 48: Add pins at regular intervals

Solving Problems Before They Grow 71
Kitchener Stitch, or Grafting
The Kitchen er stitch is a g reat way
to fi n i sh o ff the to e o f a so ck, l eav i n g
an i n v i si bl e jo i n that l o o ks l i ke a ro w
o f sti tches (Fi g ure 49).
Figure 49: A completed
row of Kitchener stitch
To make the Ki tchen er sti tch,
di v i de the sti tches to be jo i n ed ev en l y
o n two n eedl es. Ho ld the two kn i tti n g
n eedl es paral l el to each o ther so that
the wro n g sides o f the f abri c face each
o ther an d so that the yarn tai l co mes
o f f the ri g ht edg e. Cut a t ai l ab o ut
f o ur ti mes the di stan ce yo u'l l n eed to
g raf t, then thread the yarn o n a tap-
estry n eedl e (Fi g ure 50). Yo u'l l wo rk
back an d f o rth between the stitches
1
o n the two n eedl es, f o l l o wi n g a path
that mimics a ro w o f kn i tti n g .
The key to co mi n g up wi th an
i n v i s i b l e g r a f t i s i n t he f i r s t t w o
sti tches. In sert the tapestry n eedl e i n
the fi rst sti tch o n the f ro n t n eedl e as if
to purl, wi th the tapestry n eedl e co m-
i n g thro ug h the cen ter o f the sti tch o n
to p o f the kn i tti n g n eedl e (Fi g ure 51).
Figure 5 1 : Insert tapestry
needle into first front stitch
Pul l the n eedl e an d yarn thro ug h
thi s sti tch but l eav e the sti tch o n the
n eedl e. Next , i n s er t t he t a pe s t r y
n eedl e t hr o ug h the f i r s t sti tch o n
the back n eedl e as if to knit, wi th
the tapestry n eedl e co mi n g thro ug h
the cen ter o f the sti tch f ro m un der-
n eath the kn i tti n g n eedle (Fig ure 52).
Leav e the sti tch o n the n eedl e.
Figure 52: Insert tapestry needle
into first back stitch
Figure 50: Setup for Kitchener stitch
72 Knrt Fix
No w that yo u're set up, the rest i s
a breeze:
1
Place the tapestry n eedl e i n to the
f i rs t sti tch o n the f ro n t n eedl e
as i f to kn i t , pul l the y arn t hro ug h,
an d sl i p the s ti tch o f f the kn i t t i n g
n eedl e. In sert the tapestry n eedl e i n to
the n exf sti tch o n the f ro n t kn i t t i n g
n eedl e as i f to purl , ti g hten , an d l eav e
the sti tch o n the kn i tti n g n eedl e (Fig -
ure 53)- Ti g hten the yarn to match the
ten si o n o f the o rig in al stitches.
Figure 53: Insert tapestry needle
into next front stitch
The secret to invisible weaving is to
work between the two knitting needles
to reach those back-needle stitches.
2
In sert the tapestry n eedl e thro ug h
the fi rst stitch o n the back n eedle
as i f to purl (Fi g ure 54), pul l the yarn
thro ug h, ti g hten , an d pul l thi s sti tch o ff
n eedl e. As yo u co mpl ete each sti tch,
pul l o n the wo rki n g yarn to adjust the
ten si o n o f the n ew g raf ti n g sti tches to
match the si ze an d appearan ce o f the
reg ul ar sti tches.
Figure 54: Insert needle into
first stitch on back needle
3
In s ert the t apes t ry n eedl e i n to
n ext sti tch o n the back n eedl e as
i f to kn i t, ti g hten , an d leav e the sti tch
o n the n eedle (Fig ure 52).
Repeat S teps 1-3 un t i l y o u'v e
wo rked al l the sti tches. To hi de the
tai l , bri n g i t to the wro n g si de an d
secure i t.
S o l v i n g Pro bl ems "Befo re They Gro w 73
P R O B L E M : My Ki t c he n e r s t i t ch
l o o ks b umpy , as i f t her e are purl
sti tches acro ss the to e. Isn 't the Ki tch-
en er sti tch suppo sed to be i n v i si bl e?
\.
L |FIX : If yo ur Ki tchen er sti tch
^" ^sho ws o n t he o ut s i de , i t 's
ti me to pul l i t o ut. The g o o d n ews
i s we us ual l y o n l y Ki t chen er sti tch
acro ss a f ew sti tches. Pi ck o ut the
-wo v en sti tches wi th the po i n t o f
yo ur t apes t ry n eedl e to f ree up the
Ji v e sti tches. Wi th a smal l er kn i tti n g
n eedl e t han the o n e yo u kn i tted the
so ck o r hat wi th, pi ck up the l i v e
sti tches. If there are the same n umber
o f liv e sti tches as bef o re yo u tri ed the
Ki tchen er sti tch, g reat. If n o t, check
f o r dro pped sti tches. If yo u do n 't see
an y, then un kn i t a ro w o r two un t i l
the co un t i s co rrect . Rekn i t to the
po i n t where yo u n eed to g r af t an d
try ag ai n . Rememb er to mo v e the
y arn back an d f o r t h b et w een n o t
o v ert he kn i t t i n g n eedl es . It may
hel p to hav e so meo n e read the di rec-
ti o n s ato ud as yo u make the jo i n .
Blocking
Admi t t edl y , I'm b i as ed ag ai n s t
b l o cki n g as a Kn i t Fi x. If s weaters
fi ti f yo u measured twi ce an d kn i t-
ted o n cethen al l yo u mi g ht n eed i s a
f i n al l i g ht steam press wi th yo ur i ro n .
Bl o cki n g do esn 't perman en tl y chan g e
the s hape o f k^i ts. It's a t empo rary
fi x, wi th two exceptio n s. Fi rst, when
yo u kn i t al l yo ur sti tches co rrectl y,
b ut en d up wi th un ev en s t i t ches .
S o me yarn s wi l l do that. Of ten a g en -
tl e wash wi l l rel ax the sti tches i n to
un i f o rmi ty. S team o f ten will do thi s,
to o , an d I'd try that f i rst.
S eco n d, yo u must bl o ck l ace kn i t-
ti n g to bri n g o ut i ts g l o ry; un bl o cked
l ace l o o ks l i ke a pi l e o f yarn . Pay atten -
ti o n to f i ber (see pag e 99). Di p the
l ace g armen t i n -water, co l d i f yo u'v e
kn i tted wi th si l k o r rayo n , l ukewarm
o therwi s e. Gen tl y s queeze o ut the
excess water; i t may be n ecessary to
fi n i sh bl o tti n g by ro l l i n g the lace i n a
to wel. S pread the g armen t o ut o n a bed,
clean rug , o r i ro n i n g bo ard wi th a cl o th
co v erso methi n g yo u can pi n to . Pi n
o ut the g armen t, usi n g l o ts o f pi n s o r
the lo n g metal pi n s desig n ed to blo ck
lace. (S o me lace g armen ts are mean t to
be bl o cked but n o t pi n n edread the
pat t ern di recti o n s tho ro ug hl y.) Lace
stretches when wet, so make sure yo u
kn o w yo ur desired fin ished dimen sio n s
an d blo ck acco rdin g ly. But because lace
i s mo re o pen space than yarn , i t dri es
quickly. (Impo rtan t to kn o w i f yo u pl an
o n sleepin g i n the same bed where yo u
blo ck.)
74 Knit Rx
If yo u must blo ck, keep in mi n d the
three Fs: fi ber, fl at, an d fi n i shi n g .
Fiber
Wo o l bl o cks beauti f ul l y, si l k an d
co tto n n o t so beauti ful l y. Yarn memo ry,
g i v e, an d wei g ht make a di f f eren ce.
S uper f i n e y arn i n an y n at ur al f i ber
ten ds to bl o ck well. If i n do ubt, rev iew
the fi ber chart o n pag e 99.
Flat
P ar t i cul ar l y i f y o u're b l o cki n g
pieces befo re assemblin g the fin al g ar-
men t, make sure that the kn i tted f abri c
^smo o thed fl at. Pi n s can make ripples
i n the f abri c, especi al l y f abri c kn i tted
wi th f i n er y arn s . B e caref ul ab o ut
bl o cki n g pieces wi th di men si o n s that
hav e to match: si de seams sho ul d be
the same l en g th, hems the same wi dth,
etc. Use a measuri n g tape.
Finishing
Wh e t h e r y o u' r e b l o c ki n g a
sweater o r an y o ther assembl ed g ar-
men t, remember that thi s i s the l ast
step befo re weari n g . S eams sho ul d l i e
f l at, hems strai g ht, sho ul ders curv ed.
If thi s remi n ds yo u o f ei ther sewi n g o r
do i n g yo ur i ro n i n g , then yo u un der-
stan d bl o cki n g .
A final note
Use just a bit of plain, mild soap when
washing knits. Most of the special
products for washing delicates have
some version of fabric softener in
them, which tends to weigh down
handknits.