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READINGSELECTIONS
ThePleasuresofEating
ByWendellBerry
FromWhatArePeopleFor?Essays
1 Manytimes,afterIhavefinishedalectureonthedeclineofAmericanfarmingandrurallife,
someoneintheaudiencehasasked,Whatcancitypeopledo?
2 Eatresponsibly,Ihaveusuallyanswered.Ofcourse,IhavetriedtoexplainwhatImeantby
that,butafterwardsIhaveinvariablyfeltthattherewasmoretobesaidthanIhadbeenable
tosay.NowIwouldliketoattemptabetterexplanation.
3 Ibeginwiththepropositionthateatingisanagriculturalact.Eatingendstheannualdramaof
thefoodeconomythatbeginswithplantingandbirth.Mosteaters,however,arenolonger
awarethatthisistrue.Theythinkoffoodasanagriculturalproduct,perhaps,buttheydonot
thinkofthemselvesasparticipantsinagriculture.Theythinkofthemselvesasconsumers.If
theythinkbeyondthat,theyrecognizethattheyarepassiveconsumers.Theybuywhatthey
wantorwhattheyhavebeenpersuadedtowantwithinthelimitsofwhattheycanget.
Theypay,mostlywithoutprotest,whattheyarecharged.Andtheymostlyignorecertain
criticalquestionsaboutthequalityandthecostofwhattheyaresold:Howfreshisit?How
pureorcleanisit,howfreeofdangerouschemicals?Howfarwasittransported,andwhatdid
transportationaddtothecost?Howmuchdidmanufacturingorpackagingoradvertisingadd
tothecost?Whenthefoodproducthasbeenmanufacturedorprocessedorprecooked,
howhasthataffecteditsqualityorpriceornutritionalvalue?
4 Mosturbanshopperswouldtellyouthatfoodisproducedonfarms.Butmostofthemdonot
knowwhatfarms,orwhatkindsoffarms,orwherethefarmsare,orwhatknowledgeorskills
areinvolvedinfarming.Theyapparentlyhavelittledoubtthatfarmswillcontinuetoproduce,
buttheydonotknowhoworoverwhatobstacles.Forthem,then,foodisprettymuchan
abstractideasomethingtheydonotknoworimagineuntilitappearsonthegroceryshelf
oronthetable.
5 Thespecializationofproductioninducesspecializationofconsumption.Patronsofthe
entertainmentindustry,forexample,entertainthemselveslessandlessandhavebecome
moreandmorepassivelydependentoncommercialsuppliers.Thisiscertainlytruealsoof
patronsofthefoodindustry,whohavetendedmoreandmoretobemereconsumers
passive,uncritical,anddependent.Indeed,thissortofconsumptionmaybesaidtobeoneof
thechiefgoalsofindustrialproduction.Thefoodindustrialistshavebynowpersuaded
millionsofconsumerstopreferfoodthatisalreadyprepared.Theywillgrow,deliver,and
cookyourfoodforyouand(justlikeyourmother)begyoutoeatit.Thattheydonotyetoffer
toinsertit,prechewed,intoyourmouthisonlybecausetheyhavefoundnoprofitablewayto
doso.Wemayrestassuredthattheywouldbegladtofindsuchaway.Theidealindustrial
foodconsumerwouldbestrappedtoatablewithatuberunningfromthefactorydirectlyinto
hisorherstomach.
6 PerhapsIexaggerate,butnotbymuch.Theindustrialeateris,infact,onewhodoesnotknow
thateatingisanagriculturalact,whonolongerknowsorimaginestheconnectionsbetween
eatingandtheland,andwhoisthereforenecessarilypassiveanduncriticalinshort,avictim.
Whenfood,inthemindsofeaters,isnolongerassociatedwithfarmingandwiththeland,
thentheeatersaresufferingakindofculturalamnesiathatismisleadinganddangerous.The
currentversionofthedreamhomeofthefutureinvolveseffortlessshoppingfromalistof
availablegoodsonatelevisionmonitorandheatingprecookedfoodbyremotecontrol.Of
course,thisimpliesanddependson,aperfectignoranceofthehistoryofthefoodthatis
Commented [11]: Theauthortalksabouthowfoodis
plantedandbirthbutpeopledontthinkittrueanymore.
Peoplethinkofitaschemicallyfoodandagricultural
Commented [12]: Peoplerealizethattheirnot
consumerstherepassiveconsumerswhichissomeone
whodoesntcarewhattheyeatorwhattheyhaveinside
thefooditsnotimportant
Commented [13]: Inthisparagraphhestateshow
peoplewhosellthefoodmerchandizedontknowhow
thefoodhasbeenprocessedormade.Anabstractidea
Commented [14]: Thefoodindustriespersuadepeople
toeatfoodthatisalreadycookedbecausetheywaste
lessmoneyandinshipping.Theybegyoutoeatthefood.
Commented [15]: Thepeoplesufferfromamnesiathat
isdangerousbecauseofthechemicalstheindustriesput
intothefoods

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consumed.Itrequiresthatthecitizenryshouldgiveuptheirhereditaryandsensibleaversion
tobuyingapiginapoke.Itwishestomakethesellingofpigsinpokesanhonorableand
glamorousactivity.Thedreamerinthisdreamhomewillperforceknownothingaboutthe
kindofqualityofthisfood,orwhereitcamefrom,orhowitwasproducedandprepared,or
whatingredients,additives,andresiduesitcontainsunless,thatis,thedreamerundertakes
acloseandconstantstudyofthefoodindustry,inwhichcaseheorshemightaswellwakeup
andplayanactiveandresponsiblepartintheeconomyoffood.
7 Thereis,then,apoliticsoffoodthat,likeanypolitics,involvesourfreedom.Westill
(sometimes)rememberthatwecannotbefreeifourmindsandvoicesarecontrolledby
someoneelse.Butwehaveneglectedtounderstandthatwecannotbefreeifourfoodandits
sourcesarecontrolledbysomeoneelse.Theconditionofthepassiveconsumeroffoodisnot
ademocraticcondition.Onereasontoeatresponsiblyistolivefree.
8 Butifthereisafoodpolitics,therearealsoafoodestheticsandafoodethics,neitherof
whichisdissociatedfrompolitics.Likeindustrialsex,industrialeatinghasbecomeadegraded,
poor,andpaltrything.Ourkitchensandothereatingplacesmoreandmoreresemblefilling
stations,asourhomesmoreandmoreresemblemotels.Lifeisnotveryinteresting,we
seemtohavedecided.Letitssatisfactionsbeminimal,perfunctory,andfast.Wehurry
throughourmealstogotoworkandhurrythroughourworktorecreateourselvesinthe
eveningsandonweekendsandvacations.Andthenwehurry,withthegreatestpossible
speedandnoiseandviolence,throughourrecreationforwhat?Toeatthebillionth
hamburgeratsomefastfoodjointhellbentonincreasingthequalityofourlife?Andallthis
iscarriedoutinremarkableobliviousnesstothecausesandeffects,thepossibilitiesandthe
purposes,ofthelifeofthebodyinthisworld.
9 Onewillfindthisobliviousnessrepresentedinvirginpurityintheadvertisementsofthefood
industry,inwhichfoodwearsasmuchmakeupastheactors.Ifonegainedoneswhole
knowledgeoffoodfromtheseadvertisements(assomepresumablydo),onewouldnotknow
thatthevariousedibleswereeverlivingcreatures,orthattheyallcomefromthesoil,orthat
theywereproducedbywork.ThepassiveAmericanconsumer,sittingdowntoamealofpre
preparedorfastfood,confrontsaplattercoveredwithinert,anonymoussubstancesthat
havebeenprocessed,dyed,breaded,sauced,gravied,ground,pulped,strained,blended,
prettified,andsanitizedbeyondresemblancetoanypartofanycreaturethateverylived.The
productsofnatureandagriculturehavebeenmade,toallappearances,theproductsof
industry.Botheaterandeatenarethusinexilefrombiologicalreality.Andtheresultisakind
ofsolitude,unprecedentedinhumanexperience,inwhichtheeatermaythinkofeatingas,
first,apurelycommercialtransactionbetweenhimandasupplierandthenasapurely
appetitivetransactionbetweenhimandhisfood.
10 Andthispeculiarspecializationoftheactofeatingis,again,ofobviousbenefittothefood
industry,whichhasgoodreasonstoobscuretheconnectionbetweenfoodandfarming.It
wouldnotdofortheconsumertoknowthatthehamburgersheiseatingcamefromasteer
whospentmuchofhislifestandingdeepinhisownexcrementinafeedlot,helpingtopollute
thelocalstreams,orthatthecalfthatyieldedthevealcutletonherplatespentitslifeinabox
inwhichitdidnothaveroomtoturnaround.And,thoughhersympathyfortheslawmightbe
lesstender,sheshouldnotbeencouragedtomeditateonthehygienicandbiological
implicationsofmilesquarefieldsofcabbage,forvegetablesgrowninhugemonoculturesare
dependentontoxicchemicalsjustasanimalsincloseconfinementaredependenton
antibioticsandotherdrugs.
11 Theconsumer,thatistosay,mustbekeptfromdiscoveringthat,inthefoodindustryasin
anyotherindustrytheoverridingconcernsarenotqualityandhealth,butvolumeandprice.
Commented [16]: Politicssaythefoodisgoodforyou
andtheymakeyoukeepthatinyourmindbutsome
peopledontfallforit.
Commented [17]: Restaurantsandotherplacesare
takingawayfromthepleasureofeatingathome
Commented [18]: Peoplealwaysthinkwhatisthefood
reallymadeoutofandwhatdoesitcontaininitbecause
peoplewanttoknowwhattheireating.Anditbeen
processedbyanythingyouwouldofthinkofandeven
more

CSUEXPOSITORYREADINGANDWRITINGMODULES THEPOLITICSOFFOOD|3
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Fordecadesnowtheentireindustrialfoodeconomy,fromthelargefarmsandfeedlotstothe
chainsofsupermarketsandfastfoodrestaurants,hasbeenobsessedwithvolume.Ithas
relentlesslyincreasedscaleinordertoincreasevolumeinorder(presumably)toreducecosts.
Butasscaleincreases,diversitydeclines;asdiversitydeclines,sodoeshealth;ashealth
declines,thedependenceondrugsandchemicalsnecessarilyincreases.Ascapitalreplaces
labor,itdoessobysubstitutingmachines,drugs,andchemicalsforhumanworkersandfor
thenaturalhealthandfertilityofthesoil.Thefoodisproducedbyanymeansoranyshortcut
thatwillincreaseprofits.Andthebusinessofthecosmeticiansofadvertisingistopersuade
theconsumerthatfoodsoproducedisgood,tasty,healthful,andaguaranteeofmarital
fidelityandlonglife.
12 Itispossible,then,tobeliberatedfromthehusbandryandwiferyoftheoldhouseholdfood
economy.Butonecanbethusliberatedonlybyenteringatrap(unlessoneseesignorance
andhelplessnessasthesignsofprivilege,asmanypeopleapparentlydo).Thetrapistheideal
ofindustrialism:awalledcitysurroundedbyvalvesthatletmerchandiseinbutno
consciousnessout.Howdoesoneescapethistrap?Onlyvoluntarily,thesamewaythatone
wentin:byrestoringonesconsciousnessofwhatisinvolvedineating;byreclaiming
responsibilityforonesownpartinthefoodeconomy.Onemightbeginwiththeilluminating
principleofSirAlbertHowardsTheSoilandHealth,thatweshouldunderstandthewhole
problemofhealthinsoil,plant,animal,andmanasonegreatsubject.Eaters,thatis,must
understandthateatingtakesplaceinescapablyintheworld,thatitisinescapablyan
agriculturalact,andthathowweeatdetermines,toaconsiderableextent,howtheworldis
used.Thisisasimplewayofdescribingarelationshipthatisinexpressiblycomplex.Toeat
responsiblyistounderstandandenact,sofarasonecan,thiscomplexrelationship.Whatcan
onedo?Hereisalist,probablynotdefinitive:
1. Participateinfoodproductiontotheextentthatyoucan.Ifyouhaveayardorevenjusta
porchboxorapotinasunnywindow,growsomethingtoeatinit.Makealittlecompost
ofyourkitchenscrapsanduseitforfertilizer.Onlybygrowingsomefoodforyourselfcan
youbecomeacquaintedwiththebeautifulenergycyclethatrevolvesfromsoiltoseedto
flowertofruittofoodtooffaltodecay,andaroundagain.Youwillbefullyresponsiblefor
anyfoodthatyougrowforyourself,andyouwillknowallaboutit.Youwillappreciateit
fully,havingknownitallitslife.
2. Prepareyourownfood.Thismeansrevivinginyourownmindandlifetheartsofkitchen
andhousehold.Thisshouldenableyoutoeatmorecheaply,anditwillgiveyouameasure
ofqualitycontrol:youwillhavesomereliableknowledgeofwhathasbeenaddedtothe
foodyoueat.
3. Learntheoriginsofthefoodyoubuy,andbuythefoodthatisproducedclosesttoyour
home.Theideathateverylocalityshouldbe,asmuchaspossible,thesourceofitsown
foodmakesseveralkindsofsense.Thelocallyproducedfoodsupplyisthemostsecure,
thefreshest,andtheeasiestforlocalconsumerstoknowaboutandtoinfluence.
4. Wheneverpossible,dealdirectlywithalocalfarmer,gardener,ororchardist.Allthe
reasonslistedfortheprevioussuggestionapplyhere.Inaddition,bysuchdealingyou
eliminatethewholepackofmerchants,transporters,processors,packagers,and
advertiserswhothriveattheexpenseofbothproducersandconsumers.
Commented [19]: Theindustrialeconomyisgrowing
largerandlargertoincreasethevolumeinorderto
reducethecostofthings,butitalsoincreasesyour
health,chemicals,substances,diversity,andthedrugs
addedtothefood.Itsashortcutthefoodindustries
Commented [110]: Hestatesthatyoushouldmake
yourownfoodbecauseitisbetterforyouanditsnot
goingtohavechemicalsanditgoingtobehealthyforyou

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5. Learn,inselfdefense,asmuchasyoucanoftheeconomyandtechnologyofindustrial
foodproduction.Whatisaddedtofoodthatisnotfood,andwhatdoyoupayforthese
additions?
6. Learnwhatisinvolvedinthebestfarmingandgardening.
7. Learnasmuchasyoucan,bydirectobservationandexperienceifpossible,ofthelife
historiesofthefoodspecies.
13 Thelastsuggestionseemsparticularlyimportanttome.Manypeoplearenowasmuch
estrangedfromthelivesofdomesticplantsandanimals(exceptforflowersanddogsand
cats)astheyarefromthelivesofthewildones.Thisisregrettable,forthesedomestic
creaturesareindiversewaysattractive;thereismuchpleasureinknowingthem.And
farming,animalhusbandry,horticulture,andgardening,attheirbest,arecomplexandcomely
arts;thereismuchpleasureinknowingthem,too.
14 Itfollowsthatthereisgreatdispleasureinknowingaboutafoodeconomythatdegradesand
abusesthoseartsandthoseplantsandanimalsandthesoilfromwhichtheycome.For
anyonewhodoesknowsomethingofthemodernhistoryoffood,eatingawayfromhomecan
beachore.MyowninclinationistoeatseafoodinsteadofredmeatorpoultrywhenIam
traveling.ThoughIambynomeansavegetarian,Idislikethethoughtthatsomeanimalhas
beenmademiserableinordertofeedme.IfIamgoingtoeatmeat,Iwantittobefroman
animalthathaslivedapleasant,uncrowdedlifeoutdoors,onbountifulpasture,withgood
waternearbyandtreesforshade.AndIamgettingalmostasfussyaboutfoodplants.Iliketo
eatvegetablesandfruitsthatIknowhavelivedhappilyandhealthilyingoodsoil,notthe
productsofthehuge,bechemicaledfactoryfieldsthatIhaveseen,forexample,intheCentral
ValleyofCalifornia.Theindustrialfarmissaidtohavebeenpatternedonthefactory
productionline.Inpractice,itlooksmorelikeaconcentrationcamp.
15 Thepleasureofeatingshouldbeanextensivepleasure,notthatofthemeregourmet.People
whoknowthegardeninwhichtheirvegetableshavegrownandknowthatthegardenis
healthywillrememberthebeautyofthegrowingplants,perhapsinthedewyfirstlightof
morningwhengardensareattheirbest.Suchamemoryinvolvesitselfwiththefoodandis
oneofthepleasuresofeating.Theknowledgeofthegoodhealthofthegardenrelievesand
freesandcomfortstheeater.Thesamegoesforeatingmeat.Thethoughtofthegoodpasture
andofthecalfcontentedlygrazingflavorsthesteak.Some,Iknow,willthinkitbloodthirsty
orworsetoeatafellowcreatureyouhaveknownallitslife.Onthecontrary,Ithinkitmeans
thatyoueatwithunderstandingandwithgratitude.Asignificantpartofthepleasureofeating
isinonesaccurateconsciousnessofthelivesandtheworldfromwhichfoodcomes.The
pleasureofeating,then,maybethebestavailablestandardofourhealth.Andthispleasure,I
think,isprettyfullyavailabletotheurbanconsumerwhowillmakethenecessaryeffort.
16 Imentionedearlierthepolitics,esthetics,andethicsoffood.Buttospeakofthepleasureof
eatingistogobeyondthosecategories.Eatingwiththefullestpleasurepleasure,thatis,
thatdoesnotdependonignoranceisperhapstheprofoundestenactmentofourconnection
withtheworld.Inthispleasureweexperienceandcelebrateourdependenceandour
gratitude,forwearelivingfrommystery,fromcreatureswedidnotmakeandpowerswe
cannotcomprehend.WhenIthinkofthemeaningoffood,Ialwaysremembertheselinesby
thepoetWilliamCarlosWilliams,whichseemtomemerelyhonest:
Thereisnothingtoeat,
seekitwhereyouwill,But
Commented [111]: Theusetheanimalsforfoodorfor
themtohelpproducefood
Commented [112]: Itsstatesthatpeoplenevereatat
hometheygooutandeatthenjuststayhomeandeat
Commented [113]: Hesaysthatthefoodindustriesare
likeconcentrationcampsbecausetheylineupanimals
andhaveeverythingorganizedforeachtypeofanimal
andthentheykillthem,discrimination
Commented [114]: Thepleasureofeatingshouldbe
goodandhealthynotwithchemicallythingsputinthe
food,andthatyoushouldgrowyourownthingsforyour
ownconcern
Commented [115]: Inthisparagraphstatesthat
politicsandestheticsoffoodsaythingsaboutitforyouto
eatbutwheninrealityitsnotgood.Weshouldjust
appreciatewhatwehave.andalltheanimals.webeen
blessedtohavethesethingsorelsewewouldntof
survived

CSUEXPOSITORYREADINGANDWRITINGMODULES THEPOLITICSOFFOOD|5
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thebodyoftheLord.The
blessedplantsandthesea,
yieldittotheimagination
intact.
WhenaCropBecomesKing
ByMichaelPollan
NewYorkTimes,July19,2002
1 CornwallBridge,CTHereinsouthernNewEnglandthecornisalreadywaisthighand
growingsoavidlyyoucanalmosthearthecreakofstalkandleafastheplantsstretchtoward
thesun.Theearsofsweetcornarejuststartingtoshowuponlocalfarmstands,inaugurating
oneoftheceremoniesofanAmericansummer.Thesedaysthenationsnearly80millionacre
fieldofcornrollsacrossthecountrysidelikeasecondgreatlawn,butthiswholesome,all
Americanimageobscuresadecidedlymoredubiousreality.
2 Likethetulip,theappleandthepotato,zeamays(thebotanicalnameforbothsweetand
feedcorn)hasevolvedwithhumansoverthepast10,000yearsorsointhegreatdanceof
specieswecalldomestication.Theplangratifieshumanneeds,inexchangeforwhichhumans
expandtheplantshabitat,movingitsgenesallovertheworldandremakingtheland(clearing
trees,plowingtheground,protectingitfromitsenemies)soitmightthrive.
3 Corn,bymakingitselftastyandnutritious,gotitselfnoticedbyChristopherColumbus,who
helpedexpanditsrangefromtheNewWorldtoEuropeandbeyond.Todaycornistheworlds
mostwidelyplantedcerealcrop.Butnowherehavehumansdonequiteasmuchtoadvance
theinterestsofthisplantasinNorthAmerica,wherezeamayshasinsinuateditselfintoour
landscape,ourfoodsystemandourfederalbudget.
4 Oneneedlooknofurtherthanthe$190billionfarmbillPresidentBushsignedlastmonthto
wonderwhoseinterestsarereallybeingservedhere.Underthe10yearprogram,taxpayers
willpayfarmers$4billionayeartogrowevermorecorn,thisdespitethefactthatwestruggle
togetridofthesurplustheplantalreadyproduces.Theaveragebushelofcorn(56pounds)
sellsforabout$2today;itcostsfarmersmorethan$3togrowit.Butratherthandesigna
programthatwouldencouragefarmerstoplantlesscornwhichwouldhavethebenefitof
liftingthepricefarmersreceiveforitCongresshasdecidedinsteadtosubsidizecornbythe
bushel,therebyinsuringthatzeamaysdominionoverits125,000squaremileAmerican
habitatwillgounchallenged.
5 Atfirstblushthissubsidymightlooklikeahandoutforfarmers,butreallyitsaformof
welfarefortheplantitselfandforallthoseeconomicintereststhatprofitfromits
overproduction:theprocessors,factoryfarms,andthesoftdrinkandsnackmakersthatrely
oncheapcorn.Forzeamayshastriumphedbymakingitselfindispensablenottofarmers
(whomitisswiftlyandsurelybankrupting)buttotheArcherDanielsMidlands,Tysonsand
CocaColasoftheworld.
6 Ourentirefoodsupplyhasundergoneaprocessofcornificationinrecentyears,withoutour
evennoticingit.Thatsbecause,unlikeinMexico,whereacornbaseddiethasbeenthenorm
forcenturies,intheUnitedStatesmostofthecornweconsumeisinvisible,havingbeen
heavilyprocessedorpassedthroughfoodanimalsbeforeitreachesus.Mostoftheanimals
weeat(chickens,pigsandcows)todaysubsistonadietofcorn,regardlessofwhetheritis
goodforthem.Inthecaseofbeefcattle,whichevolvedtoeatgrass,acorndietwreakshavoc
ontheirdigestivesystem,makingitnecessarytofeedthemantibioticstostaveoffillnessand

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infection.Evenfarmraisedsalmonarebeingbredtotoleratecornnotafoodtheirevolution
has
preparedthemfor.Whyfeedfishcorn?Becauseitsthecheapestthingyoucanfeedany
animal,thankstofederalsubsidies.Butevenwithmorethanhalfofthe10billionbushelsof
cornproducedannuallybeingfedtoanimals,thereisplentyleftover.Socompanieslike
A.D.M,CargillandConAgrahavefiguredingeniousnewwaystodisposeofit,turningitinto
everythingfromethanoltoVitaminCandbiodegradableplastics.
7 Byfarthebeststrategyforkeepingzeamaysinbusinesshasbeenthedevelopmentofhigh
fructosecornsyrup,whichhasallbutpushedsugaraside.Sincethe1980s,mostsoftdrink
manufacturershaveswitchedfromsugartocornsweeteners,ashavemostsnackmakers.
Nearly10percentofthecaloriesAmericansconsumenowcomefromcornsweeteners;the
figureis20percentformanychildren.Addtothatallthecornbasedanimalprotein(cornfed
beef,chickenandpork)andcornquacorn(chips,muffins,sweetcorn)andyouhaveaplant
thathasbecomeoneofnaturessuccessstories,byturningus(alongwithseveralother
equallyunwittingspecies)intoanexpandingraceofcorneaters.
8 Sowhybegrudgecornitsphenomenalsuccess?Isntthisthewaydomesticationshouldwork?
9 Theproblemincornscaseisthatweresacrificingthehealthofbothourbodiesandthe
environmentbygrowingandeatingsomuchofit.Thoughwereonlybeginningtounderstand
whatourcornifiedfoodsystemisdoingtoourhealth,therescauseforconcern.Itsprobably
nocoincidencethatthewholesaleswitchtocornsweetenersinthe1980smarksthe
beginningoftheepidemicofobesityandType2diabetesinthiscountry.Sweetnessbecame
socheapthatsoftdrinkmakers,ratherthanlowertheirprices,supersizedtheirserving
portionsandmarketingbudgets.Thousandsofnewsweetenedsnackfoodshitthemarket,
andtheamountoffructoseinourdietssoared.
10 ThiswouldbebadenoughfortheAmericanwaistline,buttheresalsopreliminaryresearch
suggestingthathighfructosecornsyrupismetabolizeddifferentlythanothersugars,making
itpotentiallymoreharmful.ArecentstudyattheUniversityofMinnesotafoundthatadiet
highinfructose(ascomparedtoglucose)elevatestriglyceridelevelsinmenshortlyafter
eating,aphenomenonthathasbeenlinkedtoanincreasedriskofobesityandheartdisease.
Littleisknownaboutthehealtheffectsofeatinganimalsthathavethemselveseatensomuch
corn,butinthecaseofcattle,researchershavefoundthatcornfedbeefishigherinsaturated
fatsthangrassfedbeef.
11 Weknowalotmoreaboutwhat80millionacresofcornisdoingtothehealthofour
environment:seriousandlastingdamage.Moderncornhybridsarethegreediestofplants,
demandingmorenitrogenfertilizerthananyothercrop.Cornrequiresmorepesticidethan
anyotherfoodcrop.Runofffromthesechemicalsfindsitwayintothegroundwaterand,in
theMidwesterncornbelt,intotheMississippiRiver,whichcarriesittotheGulfofMexico,
whereithasalreadykilledoffmarinelifeina12,000squaremilearea.
12 Toproducethechemicalsweapplytoourcornfieldstakesvastamountsofoilandnaturalgas.
(Nitrogenfertilizerismadefromnaturalgas,pesticidesfromoil.)Americascorncropmight
looklikeasustainable,solarpoweredsystemforproducingfood,butitisactuallyahuge,
inefficient,pollutingmachinethatguzzlesfossilfuelahalfagallonofitforeverybushel.
13 Soitseemscornhasindeedbecomeking.Wehavegivenitmoreofourlandthananyother
plant,anareamorethantwicethesizeofNewYorkState.Tokeepitwellfedandsafefrom
predatorswedouseitwithchemicalsthatpoisonourwateranddeepenourdependenceon

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foreignoil.Andtheninordertodisposeofallthecornthiscrackedsystemhasproduced,we
eatitasfastaswecaninasmanywaysaswecanturningthefatofthelandinto,well,fat.
Onehastowonderwhethercornhasntatlastsucceededindomesticatingus.
MichaelPollanhaswrittenseveralbookssince2002whenthisarticlewaswritten.Twoofhismost
recentbooksareInDefenseofFood:AnEatersManifesto,publishedin2008,andTheOmnivores
Dilemma:ANaturalHistoryofFourMeals,publishedin2007.

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IfYouPitchIt,TheyWillEat
ByDavidBarboza
NewYorkTimes,August3,2003
1 TheMcDonaldsCorporationwantstobeeverywherethatchildrenare.
2 Sobesidesoperating13,602restaurantsintheUnitedStates,ithasplastereditsgoldenarches
onBarbiedolls,videogames,bookjackets,andeventhemeparks.
3 McDonaldscallsthispromotionandbrandextension.But,agrowingnumberofnutritionists
callitablitzkriegthatpervertschildrenseatinghabitsandsetsthemonapathtoobesity.
4 Marketingfastfood,snacks,andbeveragestochildrenisatleastasoldasRonaldMcDonald
himself.Whatsnew,criticssay,isthescopeandintensityoftheassault.Bigfoodmakerslike
McDonaldsandKraftFoodsInc.arefindingeveryimaginablewaytoputtheirnamesinfront
ofchildren.Andtheyrespendingmorethanever$15billionlastyear,comparedwith$12.5
billionin1998,accordingtoresearchconductedatTexasA&MUniversityinCollegeStation.
5 Whatreallychangedoverthelastdecadeistheproliferationofelectronicmedia,saysSusan
Linn,apsychologistwhostudieschildrensmarketingatHarvardsJudgeBakerChildrens
Center.ItusedtojustbeSaturdaymorningtelevision.Nowits
Nickelodeon,movies,videogames,theInternet,andevenmarketinginschools.
6 Producttieinsareeverywhere.ThereareSpongeBobSquarePantsPopsicles,OreoCookie
preschoolcountingbooks,andKeeblersScoobyDooCookies.ThereisevenaPlayDoh
Lunchablesplayset.
7 Whilethecompaniesviewtheseasharmlesspromotionalpitches,lawyersarethreateninga
waveofobesityrelatedclassactionlawsuits.Legislatorsarepressingtolockfoodcompanies
outofschoolcafeterias.Andsomeofthefiercestcriticsarecallingforanoutrightbanonall
foodadvertisingaimedatchildren.
8 Theproblemofobesityissostaggering,sooutofcontrol,thatwehavetodosomething,
saysWalterWillett,aprofessorofnutritionattheHarvardSchoolofPublicHealth.Thevast
majorityofwhattheysellisjunk,Mr.Willettsaysofthebigfoodmakers.Howoftendoyou
seefruitsandvegetablesmarketed?
9 Theincreaseinfoodmarketingtochildrenhascloselytackedtheirincreaseinweight.Since
1980,thenumberofobesechildrenhasmorethandoubledto16percent,accordingtothe
federalCentersforDiseaseControlandPrevention(CDC).
10 SchooldistrictsinNewYorkandLosAngeleshaverespondedbybanningthesaleofsugary
beveragesandsnacksinschoolvendingmachines.
11 Mostbigfoodcompanies,despitesomepromisestoofferhealthierfoodsandinsomecases
tolimitmarketinginschools,denythattheyaretoblamefortheepidemicofexcessweight.
Theyinsistthatsedentarybehavior,alackofexercise,andpoorsupervisionandeatinghabits
areresponsible.

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12 Foodcompaniessaytheircommercialsdontencourageovereating,thatthefoodsthey
advertisearemeanttobepartofabalanceddiet,andthatsomefoodsaremeanttobeonly
occasionaltreats.
13 Wetalkaboutofferingcarrotsticks,saysKarlinLinhardt,thedirectorofyouthmarketingat
McDonalds.Andwehaveparentscomeinandsay,Weofferthemcarrotsticksathome.
WhenwecometoMcDonaldswewantatreat,frenchfries.
14 Whywouldcompaniestakeaimatchildrensoenergetically?Becausethey,increasingly,are
wherethemoneyis.
15 Itsthelargestmarketthereis,saysJamesMcNeal,aprofessorofmarketingatTexasA&M
andanauthorityonmarketingtochildren.Kidsfourtotwelvespendontheirownwantsand
needsabout$30billionayear.Buttheirinfluenceonwhattheirparentsspendis$600billion.
Thatsbluesky.
16 Intoystores,childrencanbecomeaccustomedtofoodbrandsearlybybuyingaHostessbake
set,BarbiesPizzaHutplayset,orFisherPricesOreoMatchinMiddlesgame.And,for
buddingmathwhizzes,thereisaseriesofbooksfromHersheysKissesonaddition,
subtraction,andfractions.
17 Schoolsarealsoamajormarketingsite.Withmanyschooldistrictsfacingbudgetshortfalls,a
quicksolutionhascomefromofferingmoreprofitablefastfoodfromoutletslikeMcDonalds,
KFC,andPizzaHut.
18 Someschoolshavecontractstosellfastfood;othershavespecialdaysallottedforfastfood.
TheSkinnerMontessorischoolinVancouver,Washington,forinstance,has
McDonaldsWednesdaysandKFCFridays.
19 ThereareMcDonaldsMcTeachersNightsinJeffersonCity,Missouri,andPizzaHutDaysin
GardenCity,Kansas.
20 Itsawesome.Theyloveit,TracyJohnson,directorofnutritionforthe7,500studentschool
districtinGardenCity,Kansas,saysofthePizzaHutfood.Wealsoservevegetables.Wetry
tomakeitintoahealthymeal.
21 AccordingtoasurveybytheCDC,about20percentofthenationsschoolsnowofferbrand
namefastfood.
22 Vendingmachinesnowdominateschoolcorridors.CocaColaandPepsiColahavepouring
rightscontractsinhundredsofschoolsnationwide.
23 Lawyersandconsumeradvocateshaveharshlycriticizededucatorsforcommercializingthe
schoolsandsendingpoordietarymessagestochildren.
24 Itseemsveryclearitsabreachofduty,saysJohnBanzhaf,aprofessoroflawatGeorge
WashingtonUniversityinWashingtonandoneofthelawyerspressingforclassactionlawsuits
againstbigfoodcompanies.Schoolsgetpaidakickbackforeverysugarysoftdrinkorburger
sold.
25 Somefoodcompaniesheatedlydefendtheirpromotionsandtheirproducts.Ithinkour
communicationwithchildrenisappropriate;werenotshovingitdowntheirthroat,saysKen
Barun,directorofhealthylifestylesatMcDonalds,adding,Tomakeageneralstatementthat
McDonaldsfoodisunhealthyiswrong.

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READINGSELECTIONS
26 Industryofficialsconcur.Thesefoodsandbeveragesaresafe,andconsumersinsomecases
parentshavetobetheonetomakethedecisionsabouthowmuchshouldbeeaten,says
GeneGrabowski,aspokesmanfortheGroceryManufacturersofAmerica,whichrepresents
thenationsbiggestfoodcompanies.Theindustryistryingveryhardtoberesponsibleinthe
wayitmarketsthesefoods.
27 Still,legislatorsandschooldistrictsarerethinkingschoolmarketing.Therearemorethan30
billsbeforestatelegislaturesaroundthecountryproposingtobancertainsnacksand
beveragesfromschoolvendingmachines,accordingtotheCommercialisminEducation
ResearchUnitatArizonaStateUniversityinTempe.
28 Television,ofcourse,remainsthemostpowerfulmediumforsellingtochildren.Thesedays
thereisnoshortageofadvertisingopportunitieswiththeemergenceoftheWaltDisney
CompanysDisneyChannel;Nickelodeon,whichisownedbyViacom;andtheCartoon
Network,aunitofAOLTimeWarnersTurnerBroadcasting.
29 Marketersknowthatchildrenloveanimalsandcartooncharacters,andindustryobserverssay
theyhaveusedthatknowledgenotjusttocreatenewshowsbuttoproduceanewgeneration
ofanimatedpitchmen.
30 Somecriticssaychildrenoftencantdifferentiatetheprogramsfromthecommercialsand
thatfoodcompaniesandproducersofchildrensshowshavehelpedblurthelinebycreating
charactersthatleapbackandforth,frompitchmantoprogramcharacter.
31 SpongeBobSquarePantshashisownshow.ButhealsosellsKraftMacaroni&Cheese,
Popsicles,Kleenex,DVDs,skateboards,fruitsnacks,anddozensofotherproducts.
32 Infact,aseriesofbigmarketingallianceshasboundfoodcompaniesandtelevisionshow
producerslikeneverbefore.Disney,forinstance,hasteamedupwithMcDonaldsonmovies
andproducttieins.DisneyandKelloggcollaborateonalineofcerealsthatincludesDisney
ChocolateMud&Bugs.AndNickelodeonhasstruckmarketingdealswiththeQuakerOats
CompanyandGeneralMillsInc.
33 Theprogramshavebecomeadvertisingforthefood,andthefoodhasbecomeadvertising
fortheprograms,saysProfessorLinnofHarvard.
34 DuringNickelodeonsSpongeBobSquarePants30minutecartoonlastweek,morethanhalf
thecommercialswereaboutfood.ThespotsshowedthatchildrenwhoconsumeGogurt,
thenewyogurtonthego,lovedskateboardsanddancedonthewalls.
35 AchildwhopouredmilkonhisPostHoneycombcerealwastransformedintotheraffish
HoneycombmonsternamedtheCraver.Childrenwalkedintowallsafterseeingother
youngsterstonguestattooedwithBettyCrockersFruitRollUps.Andtwoothersreveledin
havingsomuchsugarontheirKelloggsCinnamonKruncherscerealthateventhetidalwave
ofmilkthatwashedovertheirtreehousecouldntwipeoffthesugaryflavor.
36 Butdothesecommercialsreallyresonatewithchildren?Marketingexpertssayyes;the
childrendo,too.NickyGreenberg,whoissixandliveswithherparentsinLowerManhattan,
oftenspendsherafternoonswatchingNickelodeon.Shecansingthethemesongfrom
SpongeBobSquarePants,andshesaysherparentsbuyherKelloggsCinnamonToastCrunch
becauseshelovesthecommercials.

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37 Onthecommercial,shesays,Theresacaptainthatgoesonthesubmarine,andtheresan
octopus,andthreekids.Andthenthegirlsays,Justtastethis,pirate.Andthepiratesays,
Ayyy,yummy!
38 ThereactionwasnodifferentlastweekatasupermarketontheSouthSideofChicago.
39 TatanishaRoberson,whoiseight,wasridingonthefrontofashoppingcartpushedbyher
mother,Erica,twentyfour,headingtowardthecerealaisle.
40 Thequestionwasposed:WhatkindoffoodisTatanishainterestedin?Anythingthatcomes
ontheTV,shellget,hermothersaid,rollinghereyes.RugratsFruitSnacks;ScoobyDoo
FruitSnacks;FlintstonesJellO.
41 Inprivate,somecompanyexecutivescomplainthatwhenparentsgotothegrocerystorethey
dontbuyhealthyproductsthatareoffered.ProfessorMcNealatTexasA&Msaysthe
companiesareascapegoat.
42 Idontthinktheyshouldbesingledout,hesays.Momblameseveryonebutherself.
Theresanabdicationoftheparentsrole.Youvegot70percentofmomswhoareworking,
sowhentheyrehometheytrytopleasetheirkids.
43 Thebigfoodcompaniessaytheyfollowasetofguidelinesfortelevisionadvertisingenforced
bytheChildrensAdvertisingReviewUnit,whichwassetupandfinancedbyadvertisersto
regulatethemselves.
44 Thecompaniessaytheiradsdontshowovereatingormakefalsehealthclaims.
45 OfficialsattheChildrensAdvertisingReviewUnitacknowledgethattheydontlookatthe
collectivemessagefoodcompaniessendtochildren.Werenotnutritionists,saysElizabeth
Lascoutx,aspokeswomanfortheunit.Werenotinthepositiontosaythisfooditemcannot
bepartofahealthydiet.
46 Sensingabacklashtoadvertisingandpromotion,especiallyinschools,Kraftsaidlastmonth
thatitwouldendallinschoolmarketingefforts.AndGeneralMills,themakerofCheerios,
saysthatinschoolmarketingiswrong.
47 Wejustviewitasinappropriate,saysTomForsythe.Theresnogatekeeper;theyrea
captiveaudience.
48 Somemarketingdealshavecomeunderpressure.Forexample,lastweek,theBritish
BroadcastingCorporationsaiditwouldnolongerallowitschildrenstelevisioncharactersto
beusedinfastfoodsponsorshipswithcompanieslikeMcDonaldsafterconsumergroups
criticizedthepublicbroadcasterforhelpingpromotejunkfood.
49 Somecompaniesdenythattheyevenmarkettochildren.BothCokeandPepsiinsistthatthey
directtheirproductsonlytoteenagersandadults.AndYumBrands,whichoperatesKFC,Pizza
Hut,andTacoBell,saysitdoesnotmarkettochildrenorhaveoperationsinschools.
50 Butsometimestheevidencewouldseemtocontradictthosestatements.Cokesigneda
multimilliondollarglobalmarketingdealtiedtotheHarryPottercharacterin2001,andmany
schools,liketheoneinGardenCity,Kansas,havecontractstoservefoodfromPizzaHut.
51 AmySherwood,aspokeswomanforYumBrands,says,Thatmustbealocaldealwiththe
franchiseesandthoseschoolsbecausewedontdothatonanationallevel.

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READINGSELECTIONS
52 KariBjorhus,aspokeswomanatCoke,said,Weabsolutelydontmarkettochildren.
OurfeelingwithHarryPotterisitreallyappealstothewholefamily.
53 Yetwithregulators,lawmakers,andothersmountingcampaignsthatseektomakebigfood
companieslooklikebigtobaccocompanies,whichhavebeensuedovermarketingcampaigns
gearedtowardyouths,somethingisboundtochange,industryexpertssay.TheWorldHealth
OrganizationandevenWallStreetanalystsarecallingonbigfoodcompaniestoreinintheir
marketingcampaignsandchangethewaytheydobusiness.
54 Thefoodindustrywillhavetoreviewitsmarketingpracticesandtransformitself,inourview,
regardlessofpotentialregulationorlitigation,ArnaudLanglois,ananalystatJ.P.Morgan,
wroteinareportlastApril.
55 Thereisaneedtosetspecificstandardsonwhatismarketedtochildren,accordingto
ProfessorWillettatHarvard.Wedontsellchildrenguns,alcohol,ordrugs,butwedoallow
themtobeexploitedbyfoodcompanies.
56 Evensomeinfluentialmarketingexpertsarebeginningtothinktheirclientsmightcome
around.
57 DanAcuff,aleadingchildrensmarketingconsultant,saysthatwhenprofitsareatstake,
companieslisten.
58 Ifitsgoingtohitthebottomline,theylllisten,hesays.Youdlikethemtohavea
conscience,butconscienceandbottomlinearenotinthesameparadigminthecorporate
world.
BigAgricultureIstheOnlyOptiontoStop
theWorldGoingHungry
Foodriots,suchasthoseinMozambique,couldsoonbeseenheretoo
unlessweoverhaulthewayweproducefood.
ByJayRayner
TheObserver,September11,2010
1 Youhavetogobackto1816tofindaseriousBritishfoodriot,theyearafteranIndonesian
volcanoeruptedcancellingsummerandblightingtheglobalcrop.Today,foodriotsarewhat
happeninThailand,Mexicoor,aswereportedlastweek,Mozambique,wheresevenpeople
diedinprotestsovera30%hikeinthepriceofbread.Thequestioniswhetherthe
circumstanceswhichledtothatmurderousboutofcivilunresthaveanyimplicationsfor
Britain.Toooften,weregardourselvesasmereobserversandcommentatorsratherthan
potentialparticipantsinthedramassurroundingthecomplexitiesoffoodsecurity.Untilafew
yearsago,thiswasBritishgovernmentpolicy.ACabinetOfficedocument,nicknamedbyTim
Lang,professoroffoodpolicyatCityUniversity,theleaveittoTescoreport,arguedthatwe
arearichdevelopednationwhichcouldbuyitswayoutofanysupplycrisisontheglobal
market.
2 ButwithRussiabanningwheatexportsuntiltheendof2011,commoditypriceslurching
upwardsandtheUnitedNationsFoodandAgricultureOrganisationpreparingforan
emergencymeetingtodiscussthecrisis,thatpositionlookshopelesslynaive.Havingspentthe
pastmonthtravellingacrossBritaininvestigatingthesustainabilityofourfoodsupplyfora

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READINGSELECTIONS
newTVshow,itscleartomethatweriskreplacingacultureofacheapandplentifulpresent
withoneofhyperexpenseandscarcityinjustafewyearstime.
3 Weneedtolookseriouslyathowweproduceourfoodandhowweeatit.Ourselfsufficiency
hasdroppedinthepastdecadefromnorthof70%toaround60%,accordingtoofficial
figures.Manyexpertsthinkitmayactuallybenearertojust50%.Weimport60%ofour
vegetables.Ifthisdriftcontinues,wewillbeleftexposedtothesortofeventsthattriggered
theriotsinAfrica.Weneedtomakedifficultdecisionswhichalotofpeoplewhoregard
themselvesasseriousfoodiesmayfinddeeplyunappetising.Andweneedtomakethemfast.
4 Anyconsumerofgastroporninprint,onlineandonourTVscreenswouldimaginewewere
alreadyhavingthisdebate.Wordssuchaslocal,seasonalandorganichavebecomeaholy
trinity.Butthesearemerelylifestylechoicesfortheaffluentmiddleclasses,amatterof
aesthetics,andnothingtodowiththerealissues.Startinthefruitaisleofyoursupermarket.
Themajorsupermarketsarenotinherentlyevil.Onbalance,theyprobablyhelpourlivesmore
thantheyhinderthem,buttheyonlyrespondtoconsumerdemandandwhattheconsumer
demandsisnotalwaysright.
5 Lookatthebagsofperfectfruit,shiny,unblemished,thesupermodelsoftheappleworld.
Theyonlylooklikethatbecauseofthegradingoutoffruitwhich,whileperfectlyedible,isnot
comelyenoughforharriedshoppers.InKentrecently,ImetDavidDeme,fordecadesanapple
farmer,whoafewyearsagodecidedhehadtostopsupplyingsupermarketsbecausehewas
beingforcedtogradeout30%to
40%ofhisfruit.Hefoundthisunacceptableandchosetomoveintoapremiummarket,by
makingapplejuice.OtherEnglishapplegrowershavesimilarstoriestotell.
6 WhichgoessomewaytoexplainingwhyBritain,acountryperfectlysuitedtogrowingapples,
nowimports70%ofthoseweeat.Theappleshelvesareaglobaltour,fromChiletoSouth
Africa,fromNewZealandtoChina,evenasweheadintoprimeBritishappleseason.Wewill
neverbecomeselfsufficientinapples,butitispossibletoreversethenumberssothatonly
30%comefromabroad,ifwestopbeingobsessedoverthelookofthefruitandareprepared
topaymoreforwhatwebuy,sothatfruitfarmerscouldinvestinnewvarietiesandthebest
storagetechniques.
7 Costiskey.Intheearly90s,wespentroughly20%ofourwagesonourshoppingbill.Today,
itsnearer10%,evenallowingforrecentinflation,andweassumetheselowpricestobea
right.Theresultismarginsforourfarmersthataresotightmanyaregivingup.Nowhereis
thismoreobviousthaninthedairyindustrywhichisnotonlysheddingfarmerseveryweek,
butlosingitsfutureworkforcetoo,asthetraditionsoffamilysuccessiondwindle.Farmers
kidsdontwanttogointothebusinessandtheirparentsdontwantthemtoo,either.A
countrysuitedtodairyfarmingisnolongerselfsufficientinmilk.Wereimportingthestuff.
8 Thesolution,embracingofthekindofsuperdairyproposedatNoctonHeathinLincolnshire,
whichwillhousemorethan8,000cows,beddeddownindoorsonsand,ismetwithhowlsof
derisionbecauseitsnotnatural.ThedairyfarmersIvetalkedtomaytakeissuewithitfor
theimpactitcouldhaveonsmallerfarms,butnoneofthemseesanimalwelfareasanissue.
Unhappy,illanimalsdonotproducemilk,soitsnotinthefarmsintereststomistreatthem
orshortentheirlifespan.Also,thecarbonfootprintofsuchalargefacilitymayactuallybe
manytimessmallerthanthatofthetraditionaldairyfarm.
9 Ifwearetosurvivethecomingfoodsecuritystorm,wewillhavetoembraceunashamedly
industrialmethodsoffarming.Weneedtoabandonthemythologiesaroundagriculture,

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whichtakethewholesomemarketingofhighendfoodbrandsatfacevaluefarmerin
smock,earofcorn,happypigandrecognisethatfarmingreallyisanindustry,muchlikecar
manufacturingorsteelforging,onewhichalwaysworksbetteronamassscale,butwhichcan
stillbemanagedsustainably.
10 Bespokeisfineforthosewithdeeppockets.Asfortherest,weliveonasmall,overpopulated
islandwithagrowingheadcountandformanybigistheonlywaytogo.Thisisnotan
endorsementoftheworstexcessesofthefactoryfarmingsystem.Indeed,onlybyacceptingit
canweasconsumersgettheproducerstoworktotheexactingstandardswedemand.
11 Canweaffordtoignoretheseissues?Idontthinkso.Anelitist,bellyobsessedminority,the
oneswhothinkthecolourplatesintheSundaysupplementsareatruereflectionofreallives
ifonlyweallmadetheeffort,mayrageagainstbigagricultureandrefusetoengagewithit.
However,whenbasicingredientsbecomescarceandpricesshootupontheinternational
markets,theircrieswillsoundincreasinghollow,comparedtothescreamsofthosewhoreally
cannotaffordtofeedtheirfamilies.Yes,ithasbeenaverylongtimesinceaBritishfoodriot,
butthatdoesnotmeanitcannothappenagain.