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SHAMPOOING, CONDITIONING & DRAPING -

WORKBOOK
Hairstyling & Aesthetics TXJ3E Ms. Navas
Rev: May 2011

Name: ________________________________________________
Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E


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B.1: HAIR CARE

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B.1: HAIR CARE


Table of Contents
Terminology - Shampooing ................................................................................................................... 4
Types of Shampoo ................................................................................................................................... 5
Types of Rinses .......................................................................................................................................... 6
Natural Products ...................................................................................................................................... 6
Draping & Shampooing ................................................................................................................................. 8
Shampoo Procedure ..................................................................................................................................... 9
Assignment: Shampoo Theory ...................................................................................................... 10
Safety precautions ...................................................................................................................................... 11
UNDERSTANDING SHAMPOOING ............................................................................................................... 12
SHAMPOO SELECTION ............................................................................................................................ 12
THE pH SCALE .......................................................................................................................................... 12
CHEMISTRY OF WATER ........................................................................................................................... 14
Hydrophilic .............................................................................................................................................. 14
Lipophilic ................................................................................................................................................. 14
APPLYING DRY SHAMPOOS ..................................................................................................................... 15
SHAMPOOING CLIENTS WITH SPECIAL NEEDS ........................................................................................ 15
The pH Scale............................................................................................................................................ 16
Acids ...................................................................................................................................................... 16
Alkaline .................................................................................................................................................. 16
The pH Scale............................................................................................................................................ 18
Live Model Shampoo Peer Evaluation ................................................................................................. 19

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Terminology - Shampooing
Term Definition
Shampoo To subject the scalp and hair to washing and massage with a
cleansing agent
Lather Froth made from mixing soap and water
Brittle Easily broken or shattered
Penetrate To pierce or pass into or through
Detergent An agent that cleanses
Thorough To complete or perfect in all respects
Lustre To shine or glossiness
Cleanse To make clean or purify
Tangle Matted mass of hair
Temporary Not permanent, not forever
Rinse To cleanse with a second or repeated application of water after
washing
Tepid Neither hot nor cold, lukewarm
Saturate To cause to become soaked or completely penetrated, to absorb all
that is possible to hold
Sheen Gloss, shininess
Temperature The degree of heat or cold as measure by a thermometer
Massage Manipulation of the body by rubbing, pinching, kneading, tapping
Pressure Act of pressing
Relax To loosen, or slacken, to make less tense or rigid
Sensitive Easily affected by outside influences
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Composition The kind and number of atoms constituting the molecule of a
substance
Types of Shampoo
Plain Shampoo Usually clear and transparent, contains liquid soap or a detergent-
based product. It should be followed by an acid rinse.
Soap-less Oil
Shampoo
Made from synthetic detergents in which the oils have been treated
with sulphuric acid. Advantage is its effective in both soft and hard
water.
Liquid Cream
Shampoo
A semi-heavy white liquid. It is used on dry hair. A detergent-based
product in which soap is used as thickening agent. It also contains oily
compounds makes hair feel silky and soft.
Cream or Paste
Shampoo
Essentially the same as liquid cream shampoo but with more
detergent material and less water.
Acid-Balanced
(non-strip)
Shampoo
Has a PH of 5.5 which is considered to be acid-balanced. Formulated
to prevent stripping of tints and toners and recommended for brittle,
dry or damaged hair.
Anti-dandruff
Shampoo
Used to control a dandruff condition. A germicide is added to plain
shampoo.
Henna Shampoo Basic color is reddish or auburn. Adds brightness to dark shades and
turns blonde, white or grey hair orange.
Liquid Dry
Shampoo
Used when wet shampoo is unable to be given. It is made from
benzene or gasoline.
Power Dry
Shampoo
Used when wet shampoo cannot be given. The powder soaks up the
oil and is brushed from the hair.
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Types of Rinses
Hair Rinses Consists of water or a mixture of water with a mild acid, coloring agent
or special ingredients.
Acid Rinses Special acid rinses remove soap scum
a) Citric Acid from lime, orange or lemon juice
b) Tartaric Acid residues of wine making
c) Acetic Acid vinegar
d) Lactic Acid lactose or sugar of milk
Cream Rinses Creamy in appearance and softens the hair, adds lustre and makes
hair easier to comb.
Acid-balanced
(non-strip) Rinses
Prevents stripping of color after tints or toners, it closes and hardens
the cuticle.
Medicated
Rinses
Has medicinal properties to control minor conditions of dandruff.
Color Rinses Used to highlight or add temporary color
Henna Rinses A final rinse to give an auburn tinge to the hair.

Natural Products
Camomile Mild tea (calming effect)
Excellent hair rinse keeps the scalp clean
Acts as a mild lightening agent

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WHY SHAMPOO?
The primary purpose is to cleanse the hair and scalp before a service.
One of the most important experiences that a stylist provides is the shampoo.
It can be heavenly or a nightmare.
The shampoo gives us an opportunity to provide the client with quality relaxation time
in the salon and prepare for the service.

REMEMBER: If a client is happy with their shampoo, they are far more
likely to be happy with their entire service.

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Draping & Shampooing
While shampooing is an important preliminary step that
prepares the hair for a variety of services, it can also be a
soothing, pleasurable experience that set the mood for
the entire visit. The shampoo is an opportunity to provide
the client with quality relaxation time in the salon that is
free from the stresses of the day. It can be nurturing and,
when done will, feel as good as an overall body massage.
REMEMBER: If a client is happy with her shampoo, she is
far more likely to be happy with her entire service.
MOVEMENTS FOR A SHAMPOO
1. Shampoo hairline using circular
movements with thumbs
2. Side movements using fingertips
3. Top of head interlocking finger movement
towards the center of the head
4. Nape area using vertical movements,
shampoo nape area (ear to ear) entire back
of head.
8 Ways to make a good shampoo experience great!
1. The scalp is always massaged according to the
preference of the client. Some clients have a
sensitive scalp and want a very light massage,
while others lack sensitivity and want a firm
massage. In order to service every client to the
best of your ability, find out their preference before
shampooing her or his hair.
2. Always ask the client if the water feels too warm,
too cool, or just right, and adjust the temperature
accordingly.
3. Do not allow the water or your hands to touch a
womans face while shampooing. This may remove
part of their base makeup, and can turn an
otherwise great shampoo into an unpleasant
experience.
4. It is easy to miss the very nape of the neck when
shampooing and rinsing, so be careful reaching it,
and then check this area before escorting the client
to your salon.
5. Offer a cool rinse to your client. Explain how good
it is for the hair (closes the cuticle). If the client
objects, though, do not insist. Many people find
even tepid water to be a chilling experience.
6. Throughout the shampoo, be very careful not to
drench the towel that is draped around the neck. If
the towel become damp, replace it with a clean, dry
towel before leaving the shampoo area.
7. When blotting the hair after the shampoo, be
careful not to go beyond the hairline. If you this,
you may remove part of your clients makeup and
she may feel self-conscious for her entire visit.
8. When learning to give a great shampoo, include a
great massage. It is always satisfying to know that
you are making your clients feel good!
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Shampoo Procedure
DRAPING
It is necessary to drape your client for the following reasons:
1. To provide for the clients comfort.
2. To provide for a professional service.
3. To protect from injury.
4. To protect their clothing.
SHAMPOO
The purpose of a shampoo is to cleanse the hair and scalp. A person should have a shampoo as often as
their hair requires it. As a general rule, oily hair should be shampooed more often than normal or dry
hair.
1. Tuck in the clients collar and place a towel Peter Pan style around their neck. Cover the client with a
cape.
2. Check the hair and scalp for abrasions, head lice, etc.
3. Brush the hair to loosen the dirt, hairspray, etc. NEVER brush prior to giving a perm or tint.
4. Seat the client at the shampoo basin. Put the cape behind the chair.
5. Wet the hair thoroughly.
6. Apply the shampoo quickly, starting at the hairline.
7. Massage the scalp using the tips of the fingers.
8. Rinse the hair thoroughly with a strong spray.
9. Repeat steps 6 to 8.
10. Apply a cream rinse or conditioner. Rinse well.
11. Squeeze out excess moisture gently and towel dry.
12. Wipe down the sink and chair for the next client.
13. The hair is now ready to comb and style.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Clean up spilled water
IMMEDIATELY!
2. Do not use your fingernails to
massage the scalp.
3. ALWAYS keep a check on the
water temperature.
4. Clean up!

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Assignment: Shampoo Theory
Answer the following questions in your notebook, using the Milady textbook
1. Why must a cosmetologist be able to give a professional shampoo?
2. What are the benefits of a good shampoo service?
3. Why is it necessary to cleanse the hair and scalp regularly?
4. How often should the hair be shampooed?
5. What two classifications of water are there? Describe each kind.
6. What should be taken into consideration when selecting a shampoo or conditioner
for a client?
7. What materials and implements do you need when giving a shampoo?
8. Why must you properly drape your client?
9. What does brushing the hair prior to a shampoo do?
10. When would you not brush the hair?
11. How should chemically treated hair be handled?
12. What is pH?
13. What is an acid balanced shampoo?
14. What is a dry shampoo?
15. What is a clarifying shampoo?
16. What are colour enhancing shampoos?
17. What is a surfactant molecule and what does it do?
18. What are acid balanced rinses?
19. What are medicated rinses?
20. What are the 3 types of conditioners?
21. What kind of shampoo and / or conditioner should you use and why?
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Safety precautions

1.) Do not permit shampoo to get into the patrons eyes.
2.) Protect patrons ears with pledges of clean cotton if they are sensitive to water.
3.) Test the water temperature before applying to patrons head.
4.) Do not permit the fingernails to scratch the patrons scalp.
5.) Always towel blot excess moisture from patrons hair before leaving the shampoo basin.
6.) Do not permit the shampoo cape to come in contact with the patrons skin.
7.) Use sanitized combs, brushes, towels and other implements for each patron.
8.) Do not turn dryer on hot if patron has high blood pressure.
9.) Do not permit water to remain on the floor around the shampoo bowl.
10.) Clean shampoo bowl, and sanitize the neck of the bowl after each use.


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B.1: HAIR CARE

UNDERSTANDING SHAMPOOING
Purpose
To cleanse the hair and scalp
Definition
To subject the hair and scalp to cleaning and
massaging with a cleansing agent

SHAMPOO SELECTION
Hair Type
Dry, oily, normal
Hair Condition
Overprocessed; chemically treated; damaged
Home Maintenance
Inappropriate products used at home can diminish the quality of the salon service
THE pH SCALE
Potential hydrogen in a solution
pH levels
Acid0 to 6.9
Alkaline7.1 to 14
The higher the pH rating, the harsher the
shampoo

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B.1: HAIR CARE

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CHEMISTRY OF WATER
Purificationfresh water from lakes and streams must be purified for domestic use.
Soft waterrain water or chemically softened water. It contains small amounts of minerals and
will produce lots of lather.
Hard watercontains minerals that lessen the ability of shampoo to lather.
Waterthe main ingredient in all shampoos
Surfactant Molecule
Hydrophilic end
Lipophilic end
Hydrophilic
Is the head of the shampoo molecule
Attaches to water molecules
Causes debris to roll off
Lipophilic
Is the tail of the
shampoo molecule
Is attracted to oil and dirt
Causes oil and dirt to roll up into little balls that can be lifted off by a
water rinse



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APPLYING DRY SHAMPOOS
Seat client comfortably at station.
Drape for chemical service.
Follow product directions.
Apply powder directly onto hair from scalp to ends and brush through.
SHAMPOOING CLIENTS WITH SPECIAL NEEDS
Clients with disabilities or who are wheelchair-bound will usually tell you how they prefer to be
shampooed.
Some clients in wheelchairs will allow you to shampoo their hair while they remain seated in
their wheelchairs, facing the shampoo bowl and bending forward.
Always ask the clients their preferences and keep their comfort and safety a priority.

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The pH Scale
Potential hydrogen or pH is often discussed with regard to salon products. It is often one
of the least understood properties. Hydrogen Power means the relative degree of acidity
and alkalinity of a substance. Notice that pH is written with a small p (which represents a
quantity) and a capital H (which represents the hydrogen ion, H ). The symbol pH
represents the quantity of hydrogen ions. Understanding what pH is and how it affects the
skin and hair is essential to understanding all chemical services.
The world of hair care is affected in a large way by the chemistry of the products that a
hairstylist uses. It is important to understand the effects of the chemicals you use every
day.
A significant chemical characteristic of these products is the degree of acidity and
alkalinity is measured on a scale called the pH scale. Water is considered a neutral
substance. Its pH is 7 on the scale. An acid substance ranges in pH from just below 7 to
0. An alkaline substance rages in pH from just above 7 to 14.
Pure water, with a pH of7 is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 5. Since the average pH
of hair and skin is 5, pure water is 100 times more alkaline than your hair and skin even
though it is neutral. Pure water can cause the hair to swell by as much as 20 percent. It is
important to choose products with the correct pH for each clients hair, as the pH level
will affect the results you get.
Acids
Acids have a pH below 7.0, taste sour and turn litmus paper from blue to red. Acids
contract and harden the hair. One such acid is thioglycolic acid and is used in permanent
waving.
Alkaline
All alkalis have a pH above 7.0. They taste bitter, turn litmus paper from red to blue, and
feel slippery and soapy on the skin. Alkalis soften and swell the hair. Sodium hydroxide,
commonly known as lye is a very strong alkali used in chemical drain cleaners and chemical
hair relaxers.

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Wet hair normally has a pH of around 5, so it is slightly acid. Shampoos have a pH of
around 8, which is slightly alkaline, except for acid-balanced shampoos, which have a pH of
around 5. Alkaline perms have a pH of around 9. Colour rinses are quite acidic, with a pH
of 2. Neutralizers for alkaline products have a pH of about 3. Conditioners have a pH
that varies from 3.5 to 6. They can resort the pH balance to the hair after an alkaline
treatment if a neutralizer has not been used.
In general, an alkaline hair product causes the hair to soften and become fuller. An acidic
substance in a hair product contracts and hardens hair. If your are not sure what product
to use, pick the product that is closest to neutral or with a pH close to 7.
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The pH Scale
Answer the following questions using the article provided on a separate piece of paper.
Use full sentences. Use the drawing you have done for some of your answers.
1. What is the definition of the pH scale?
2. What does the letter p stand for, and what does the letter H stand for?
3. What is the range of the pH scale?
4. What is pure water considered on the scale?
5. A substance that is less than 7 is considered what?
6. A substance that is more than 7 is considered what?
7. Pure water does what to hair?
8. What do alkaline products do to the hair?
9. What does an acid product do to the hair?
10. What is the pH of the following?
11. Draw, color, number and label the pH scale:

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B.1: HAIR CARE

Live Model Shampoo Peer Evaluation

Where you greeted amicably? yes no
Did your shampooer drape a towel around your neck? yes no
Did your shampooer drape a cape around your neck? yes no
Was the cape comfortable tight around your neck? yes no
Did your shampooer settle you into the sink gently? yes no
Was your shampooer too rough when scrubbing your head? yes no
Did your shampooer use 2 shampoos and 1 conditioner? yes no
Were you comfortable during the shampoo? yes no
Did you get wet? yes no
If so, did your shampooer change the towel and cape? yes no
Was the temperature of the water ok? yes no
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Humectants Lipophilic Surfactants
Conditioners Hydrophilic Soft water
Balancing shampoo Hard water Acid-balanced shampoo
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B.1: HAIR CARE

Using the words on the previous page, match the term with its appropriate
definition:
shampoos that are balanced to the pH of skin & hair (4.5 to 5.5)
shampoos that wash away excess oiliness from oily hair & scalp while
preventing the hair from drying out.
Special chemical agents applied to the hair to deposit protein or
moisturizer, to help restore its strength & give it body, or to protect it
against possible breakage.
Capable of combining with or attracting water
Capable of attracting oil
Cleansing or surface active agent
Rain water or chemically softened water that lathers easily with soap or
shampoo
Water containing certain minerals that reduce the ability of soap or
shampoo to lather
Substances that absorb moisture or promote the retention of moisture

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B.1: HAIR CARE

Answer the following 4 questions:

1. Why is pH an important fact in shampoo selection?



2. Name 4 ways in which water can be purified.




3. What is the action of conditioner on the hair?




4. What hair services should not be preceded by shampooing, brushing or
massage?

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