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FRESH FOAM

HAS ARRIVED.
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Impossibly soft, yet stable. It does exist and


its unlike anything youve ever felt before.
THIS IS #FRESHFOAM. THIS IS #RUNNOVATION.

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2014 RACE REPORT

40 READY, SET,
GO NUTS!
Riders at the
Santa Barbara
Century
last October

You dont need a Ph.D. in


training or a lot of fancy gear.
You dont even have to pay an
entry fee. To join the boom
in weekend racing, just head
to the start line and let the
competition begin. PLUS:
Meals and tness plans to
help you nish rst.

56 A BOY AND
HIS DRONE

CONTENTS

Theyre monitoring ice ow


in the Arctic, mapping the
Matterhornand maybe one
day delivering our pizzas.
But are we ready for buzzing
aerial robots to invade our
everyday adventures? ERIC
HANSEN investigates.

03.14

ROAM

64 SPOILER ALERT
I ruined Belize. Thats what

68 VIRAL NOVA
With 1.7 million subscribers to his YouTube channel,
Utah entrepreneur Devin
Graham has discovered the
formula for Internet gold:
rig up a rope swing, corral
some sponsors, roll cameras,
and share, share, share.
BY GRAYSON SCHAFFER

70 TAKE THE MONEY


AND RUN
Hes either the biggest con
man in race-organizing history or a businessman whos
been viciously maligned.
Either way, Dean Reinke has
pissed off city councils, the
Better Business Bureau, and
countless would-be competitors. BY GORDY MEGROZ

2 OUTSIDE MAGAZINE

Cover photograph by MICHAEL


WorldMags.net MULLER; this page by JEFF CLARK

COVER: STYLING BY SHARON WILLIAMS/CELESTINE AGENCY; HAIR BY ALICIA RODRIGUEZ; MAKEUP BY MELISSA WALSH

DAVID EWING DUNCAN

believed after writing one


of the rst travel stories to
lure tourists to the countrys
untrammeled coast. But
when he nally returned,
he discovered that paradise
was not entirely lost.

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One less decision


The new Alpine Houdini Jacket is a sub-7-oz waterproof shell that clips unobtrusively
to your harness, deploys when you need it to shed weather, and vanishes into its own
pocket when you dont. Whether you push on or bail, bringing it is the best decision
you dont have to make. patagonia.com/speed of light
Trevor Hobbs makes a dash up (and down) the Beckey-Chouinard route. The Bugaboos, Canada. MIKEY SCHAEFER 2014 Patagonia, Inc.

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03.14
20 DISPATCHES

First Look: A crop of pro athletes


have found second careers
dishing out locally sourced,
nutrition-packed meals. Order up!
Tech: Google wants Street View
to include your favorite trails.
Primer: That new duck-down
parka that costs a mint? Blame
it on the Chinese.
Drink: Microbrewings biggest trend
is hangover-free American sake.
Injury: Kodak courage has led to
some epic (and deadly) wipeouts.
Media: Why reality TVs hicksploitation boom is here to stay. Also: How
athletes get in the zone.
Big Idea: How snowboarding lost
its mojo.

PAGE 34

34 DESTINATIONS

Brazil: With the World Cup and the


Olympics coming to town, theres
no spot hotter than Rio. Happily for
us, Brazil is also an adventure hub.
Our team of local experts offers
the insiders guide to doing it right.

CONTENTS
PAGE 82
PAGE 26

Crowdfunded Gear: Kickstarter


and its ilk are launching everything
from weatherproof tablets to
a power-generating bicycle desk.
Socks: Thats rightsocks. Heres
to that most underappreciated
piece of gear.
Field Tested: The sharpest knives
in the drawer.
Spectrum: The best skate skis,
snowshoes, and winter runners.

86 STYLE

Watches: Classic looks,


expedition-ready features.

plus

PAGE 86

4 OUTSIDE MAGAZINE

6 EXPOSURE
14 BETWEEN THE LINES
96 PARTING SHOT

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FROM TOP: JOO CANZIANI; INGA HENDRICKSON (3)

78 ESSENTIALS

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MEET THE NEWEST MEMBER OF OUR

AWARD-WINNING FAMILY
THE OM-D E-M10.

The revolutionary OM-D family


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Image shot with the Olympus OM-D


with the M.Zuiko 45mm f/1.8 lens by
Olympus Trailblazer Jamie McDonald.

OM-D E-M10
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Full system of versatile interchangeable lenses
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Move into a NewWorldMags.net


World

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DAVID CLIFFORD

If Carbondale, Colorado,
photographer David Clifford
had to name the one place
hes photographed more
than any other, it would be
Aspens Highland Bowl, the
hike-to terrain off the top of
12,329-foot Highland Peak.
The bowl contains some of
the best in-bounds skiing in
Colorado, says Clifford. Ive
spent countless hours there
studying and photographing it.
Its a love affair for the ages.
THE TOOLS: Nikon D600,
50mm Zeiss f/1.4 lens, ISO
200, f/5.6, 1/4,000 second

6 OUTSIDE MAGAZINE

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Exposure

03.14

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JIM MARTINELLO

When a cold spell rolled


through the Sea-to-Sky
Corridor near Squamish,
British Columbia, last
December, Martinello didnt
pass on the opportunity to
shoot Tim Emmett climbing this three-pitch feature,
formed from frozen spray
ice. Tim had been working
on it for two days when
it disappeared as a result
of warmer weather, says
the Squamish photographer. Now well have to
wait for the next freeze.
THE TOOLS: Canon 7D,
24105mm f/4 lens, ISO
320, f/5.6, 1/500 second

8 OUTSIDE MAGAZINE

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Exposure

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TOW. HAUL. BUILD ANYTHING.


toyota.com/tundra

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Prototype shown with options. Production model may vary. 2013 Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.

03.14

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DONALD MIRALLE

Last November, while competing in the 2013 La Jolla Shores Invitational in


La Jolla, California, Miralle noticed an unusual number of leopard sharks in
the shallows along the racecourse. After nishing his rst heat, the Encinitas, California, photographer grabbed a GoPro and a small drone helicopter
from his car and raced to shoot the other paddlers passing through the
schools. The sharks migrate there every year to spawn, he says, but Ive
never seen so many in one place before.
THE TOOLS: GoPro Hero3+Black Edition mounted on a DJI Phantom drone,
ISO 100, f/2.8, 1/750 second

10 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

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Exposure

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THE TRAVEX ATLAS JACKET


The worlds most versatile soft shell travel jacket. Built with breathable,
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EddieBauer.com/Travex

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CHAIRMAN/EDITOR IN CHIEF LAWRENCE J. BURKE

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Go Outside Brazil

Published by Mariah Media Network LLC Outside was founded as Mariah in 1976
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SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT/CHIEF BRAND DEVELOPMENT OFFICER ANNE MOLLO-CHRISTENSEN
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Editorial Ofces: 400 Market Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501; 505-989-7100.


Advertising Ofces: 420 Lexington Ave., Suite 440, New York, NY 10170; 212-972-4650. Submissions must
be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Outside cannot be held responsible for unsolicited
material. Subscriber Service: For the fastest service, visit us online at outsideonline.com and click on Customer Service on our home page. Or write to Outside, Box 6228, Harlan, IA 51593-1728 and enclose a copy
of your mailing label, or call 800-678-1131 (outside U.S., 515-248-7680; fax 712-623-5731). A scent-free subscription is available upon request. Back Issues and Special Issues: Call 800-678-1131 or enclose a check or
money order for $7.95 per issue and mail to: Back Issues, Outside, Box 6228, Harlan, IA 51593-1728. Copyright
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PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES

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EDITOR ANDREA ESTEVAM


@gooutsidebr
andrea@gooutside.com.br

Outside China

EDITOR YANG BO
yangbo@titan24.com

Outside Sweden

EDITOR GLENN MATTSING


glenn@outsideonline.se

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I CONFESS TO BEING A WATERFOWLER AND A CASUAL FAN OF PHIL ROBERTSONS MORE BAROQUE EARLY WORK, A HOOK-AND-BULLET
SERIES ON THE OUTDOOR CHANNEL CALLED DUCK COMMANDER. GRAYSON SCHAFFER, PAGE 30

Slave to the
Starting Gun
One night last November, I received the following text from my sister: Do you think
Outside would sponsor an ultra team?
Heather lives 1,400 miles away, in Portland,
Oregon, and her message arrived with zero
context, but I knew exactly what it meant.
It meant that my sister was still deep in the
throes of racing addiction.
It all started quite innocently in the summer of 2012, when she entered her rst Hood
to Coast, a 12-person, 199-mile team relay
from Oregons Mount Hood to the Pacific
Ocean. The following summer the mania
took hold. Its all documented on Facebook:
suddenly, the adorable photos of my nephews
vanish from her timeline, pushed down by a
stream of updates about the Ragnar Northwest Passage, a 196-mile relay in Washington that her all-female team entered. Last
July, they nished the race in style, despite
a teammates torn Achilles tendon and
the mid-event breakdown of their support
vehicle, a pop-top Vanagon with OLD EGGS
WITH FAST LEGS scrawled on the rear window. What about the injuries and mishaps?
It actually made it a lot more fun! Heather
told me after the race.
Two weeks later, there was this Facebook
post: At the last minute I nd myself joining
a Hood to Coast team of 20/30 year olds from
NY, NJ, Seattle, and Portland. Dont know
anyone. Is this insane? Nine days after that:
All FB people! We are looking for any female
runners to join our team of 6 to do Ragnar Las
Vegas ultra November 8&9!!! Super fun experience on a non-competitive team. (Note

the zealous tone and frightening quantity of


exclamation points.)
In November, Heathers non-competitive
team won the womens open ultra category at
Ragnar Las Vegas. I was a very proud brother.
A week later came the sponsorship text.
The mania hasnt subsided, but Heathers
racing addiction is something we at Outside
wholeheartedly endorse. What my sister
discoveredalong with the millions of likeminded fanatics fueling the explosive growth
in weekend races in America (see our report,
Ready, Set, Go Nuts! on page 40)is that
the shared suffering of a race day is one of
the best ways to make tness fun again. And
theres nothing unhealthy about that.
CHRISTOPHER KEYES (@KEYESER)

14 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

UP AND AWAY

GORDY MEGROZ there was no


For Take the Money
and Run (page 70),
correspondent
Megroz spent two
months on the trail
of race organizer
Dean Reinke, who
has a reputation
for canceling races
and blowing off bills.
Megroz heard about
Reinke at a wedding.
My friend owns
a CrossFit gym,
Megroz says, and
he told me about
a client who went
to New Hampshire
to run a marathon,
only to nd that

marathon to run.
I said, Can you give
me her number?
Turns out a lot of
people were upset
with Reinke, who
heads up the USRA
Half-Marathon
Series. Megroz made
150 phone calls to
former racers and
business associates.
I got the same stories about canceled
events and unpaid
bills. I kept asking
myself: Is he doing
this on purpose, or
is he just a terrible
businessman?

WorldMags.net

Contributing editor Eric Hansen traveled 5,432 miles across the U.S. for
A Boy and His Drone (page 56),
ying his DJI Phantom on more than
50 occasions in national parks, town
centers, and parking lots along the
way. As he questioned whether drones
are a fantastic toy or a dangerous
threat to our experience of wild places,
he got pretty good at ying the thing.
Here are his three tips for being an ace
pilot out of the gate.
Watch where youre going. Everyone crashes, says Hansen. And its
never because the drone fails. Its
always user error. Dont just watch the
craft. Pay attention to nearby trees,
buildings, and cliffsides.
If in doubt, shut it off. I was on
the beach one night, and I ew it over
the ocean and lost sight of it, Hansen
says. If youre in an open space, the
best thing to do when that happens
is to turn off the controller. With the
remote switched off, many drones will
return to their takeoff point.
Respect other peoples privacy.
Hansen used his drone to stalk tourists
at Great Smoky Mountains National
Park, follow cars through the Utah
desert, and y into peoples backyards
in Colorado. Dont do that.

FROM TOP: GRAYSON SCHAFFER; JOS MANDOJANA (2)

03.14

Between
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2013 American Pistachio Growers

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*To learn more about the nutritional


benets of pistachios, nd recipes,
or just to see how we grow them,
visit AmericanPistachios.org.

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MY MISDEED INVOLVED A BETRAYAL OF THE PLACE ITSELFOF THE SECRET OF ITS EXISTENCE. NOT TO A FEW FRIENDS, BUT TO HUNDREDS
OF THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE. DAVID EWING DUNCAN, PAGE 64

Two 1,000foot lengths of


Vectran rope

Drone
Cable
trolleys

Cameraman
Cheerleader
GoPro

Graham

Nylon
jump lines

F E E D BAC K

BURDEN OF PROOF
Januarys Man Under, by Elliott D. Woods,

detailed Avishek Senguptas tragic death from


an obstacle called Walk the Plank at a Tough
Mudder event last April. The story generated
heated debate over who was to blame.

Did Sengupta know how to swim? And


could he swim with shoes on? At the Fall
Mid-Atlantic Tough Mudder, Walk the
Plank was toward the end, and though I
am a very competent swimmer, it took
a lot out of me due to the cold and fatigue.
KENNY VABRE

Cameraman

ONLINE

People have heart attacks or die from other


causes while running marathons and no one
raises any questions. Tragic, no doubt, but
there are risks in all adventure.
WESTON WALKER-KNOBLICH
ONLINE

LET ER ZIP!
To report Viral Nova (page 68), senior editor Grayson Schaffer spent 24 hours with YouTube lmmaker Devin Graham as he shot Jacksonville Jaguars cheerleaders and mascot
Jaxson de Ville leaping from a lighting structure above EverBank Field and speeding down
an 850-foot zip line via a cable-trolley rig. One girl, Caitlin, stepped up to the edge and executed a perfect swan dive, holding a GoPro in one hand and a pom-pom in the other, says
Schaffer. She was totally fearless. Above, we break down how they pulled off the shoot.

When Outside needed a picture of a shoe made of


cash for Take the Money and Run (page 70), our art
department called on 46-year-old New York City artist
Sporzynski, who has been making paper sculptures
since 1999. The only catch: we needed it in less than a
week. So he devoted the next ve days to the project.
There was denitely a lot of trial and error, he says.
When he brought the nished product to photographer Massimo Gammacurta, we had just one question:
Is it really made of $50 bills? Its not, says Sporzynski.
The shoe is a really complex shape, and I didnt want
to cut up that much money.

Result: First place... in the


noncompetitive, mostly kids
division.

OUTSIDE IN ASPEN
TRIATHLON; COLORADO

Result: Did not compete.


Excuse: Overhydrated
the night before.

OCTOBER 2011

JUNE 2012

DINO LLOYD
ONLINE

DOCTOR WHO?

MATTHEW SPORZYNSKI

RACE THE RED CANOE COMPETITION; FARGO, NORTH DAKOTA

Senguptas story raises questions about


organizational safety. If you hold an event,
you better be damn sure you have safety
protocols in place.

Its strange that Steve Hendrickss story


Dr. Feelgood, about medicinal-plant

hunter Chris Kilham, did not mention the


ecological downside of his work around

GOPRO MOUNTAIN GAMES


MOUNTAIN-BIKE RACE; VAIL,
COLORADO

Result: Did not compete.


Excuse: Couldnt nd parking.

JUNE 2013

FACEBOOK COMMENTER
OF THE MONTH:
Danie l Winte r I heard Chris McCandless died of CrossFit while taking PEDs
with Lance Armstrong.
December 29 at 8:52pm via mobile
Like
35 Reply

IMOGENE PASS RUN; OURAY, COLORADO

Result: Finished despite iPod getting


stuck on an all-Disney playlist. Under
the Sea and Hakuna Matata were
surprisingly effective, says Krogh.

SEPTEMBER 2013

RACE TO THE DNF


In Ready, Set, Go Nuts! (page 40), we celebrate all the reasons we love to race, from unsanctioned rides through downtown Los Angeles
to running while dressed up as an ice cream sundae. The man responsible for the story? Associate editor Ryan Krogh, who oversaw nine
contributors. Krogh knows the subject wellhe commits to as many races as anyone at the magazine. Of course, that doesnt mean he
always makes it to the starting line.

16 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

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Illustration by CHRIS PHILPOT

INGA HENDRICKSON

03.14

Between
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2014 Wolverine Outdoors, Inc.

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The AllOut Fuse trail runnerUnleash your best


run with natural arch activation and Uni-Fly impact
technology. Go farther at merrell.com/thepack.

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03.14

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feedback (cOnt.)

the world. Hendricks makes no mention of


the fact that chuchuhuasi, the plant Kilham
seeks on behalf of his employer Naturex, is
one of the most harvested in Peru. While
I commend Kilham for drawing attention to
medicinal plants, he is the spokesman for an
industry that must be monitored to ensure
the long-term sustainability of the plants.
Ezra KoHN
Owner, transcendent tea
san diegO, califOrnia

Kilham seems blind to the side effects


of herbal medicine. I worked at a jungle

THE WOODSHED
In Natural Selection (January), we
misidentied Filsons Guide Work
jacket ($545; lson.com) as the
Seattle Cruiser jacket. Also, in Run
Like Hal! we incorrectly referred to
University of Oregon track coach Bill
Bowerman as Bob. And in The Pursuit
of Happiness, we misspelled pho
tographer Kurt Markuss last name.
We regret the errors.

hospital in
Peru, where we
saw numerous
problems from
herbals. a typical issue was
severe abdominal cramping
from a plant
believed to be a
contraceptive.
I cared for one
dear old fellow
who died a terrible death from
kidney failure after he brewed up a bark
tea he thought would rid him of worms.
[Yale neurologist] Steven Novella is right to
inject a word of caution. We need pharmacognosists to identify the useful active
agents in botanicals, determine their side
effects, and standardize dosages.

few times at the Western States 100. This


past summer, I was a volunteer at the rucky
Chucky aid station and saw him come in.
He wore his usual smile, even as he disqualied himself. after 78 miles and a dNF,
the peace and joy he nds in his sport was
still obvious.

LINda roSa

Tom maILEY

Online

rOseville, califOrnia

HAPPY IS AS HAPPY DOES

The Pursuit of Happiness offered some


interesting suggestions. But I always like
to remember what abraham Lincoln
said: most folks are as happy as they make

Loved the article about Hal Koerner in


The Pursuit of Happiness. I have been

lucky enough to see Koerner run by me a

WorldMags.net

happiness: peggy sirota. shareD stories, CLoCKWise FroM top right: LiLLy Dong; Diana saVerin; CrossFit FeVer/
FLiCKr; ryan MCVay/getty; Josiah MaCKenZie; inga henDriCKson; aMy siLVerMan; Mattias FreDriKsson; MarK
toDD; grayson sChaFFer.

Between
WorldMags.net the Lines
up their minds to be. Just remember that

and never mind all the studies.


Bill M c Allister

januarys top ten most shared stories at


outsideonline.com

Fostoria, ohio

women who rip:


sierra Quitiquit

miller liGht

colorados new
pot paradise

You touted its Miller time as a story


about Bode Millers quest for Olympic gold
this February. instead, it highlighted how he
found his soul mate after 1.5 months (yeah,
right) and how hes a know-it-all richie
rich married to another richie rich who
may or may not have a temper problem.
save that stuff for Cosmo.

the pursuit
of happiness

niseko is japans
mythical powder
paradise
a death
at tough
mudder

cOrY Osth
san diego, CaliFornia

welcome to the family


in February, we launched outside go, a
travel outtter focused on adventure-sports
expeditions, like an eight-day surf trip to
mile-long playa Colorado on nicaraguas
pacic coast. Visit outsidego.com to sign
up and check out our other great trips.
contact us:
letters@outsidemag.com, facebook.com/
outsidemagazine, @outsidemagazine

the clown
shoe thats
changing
minimalist
running
your running
shoes dont
matter
the top
8 fitness
trends of
2014

crossing swords
with crossfit

WorldMags.net

the chris
mccandless
obsession
problem

WorldMags.net
Second Helpings
ATHLETES ARE NOTORIOUSLY
BAD AT FINDING NEW CAREERS
WHEN THEIR BODIES GIVE OUT.
BUT A GROUP OF CURRENT AND
FORMER PROS ARE REINVENTING
THEMSELVES AS TOP FOODIES.

by Megan Michelson

A SK RE TIRE D

professional cyclist Will


Frischkorn what he misses most about the
Alps and he doesnt cite the glorious views
or the breakneck competition. Frischkorn,
32, was struck most by the marketssmall
neighborhood places where artisans sold
bread, cheese, and cured meats.
In Europe, people shop for food more
thoughtfully. Products are hand-selected
and placed there for a reason, says the for
mer Garmin-Slipstream member, who won
the Tour of Colorado in 2005. I spent a lot of
time on my bike thinking about food.

In 2005, on a break from training, Frischkorn attended a six-week culinary school in


Colorado. His cycling career never took off
the way he wantedhis top result was second place in the third stage of the 2008 Tour
de Franceso in 2010 he quit and moved
back to his hometown of Boulder, where he
faced the creeping uncertainty that affects

many retiring athletes. I knew I wanted to


be involved in food, says Frischkorn. Then

I realized that Boulder didnt have anything


like the markets I used to go to in the Alps.

Together with his wife, Coral, 28, Frischkorn poured his savings into Cured, a European-style meat, cheese, and wine shop that
opened on Pearl Street in August 2011.
As well-made food becomes big business, an increasing number of action- and
adventure-sports athletes are making
similar leaps. And theyre not following the
traditional model, in which a high-profile
jock lends his name to a franchise and then
checks out while the line cooks churn out
overpriced food. (For examples of this, look
no further than the Michael Jordan and John
Elway steakhouses.) In a place like Boulder,
a menu crafted by a nutritionally minded
athlete carries weight. The same goes for
Mammoth Lakes, California, where freeskier
Chris Benchetler and his snowboarder wife,
Kimmy Fasani, hawk gluten-free desserts as
part owners of Mimis Cookie Bar, or West
Valley City, Utah, where former Olympic
mogul skier Shannon Bahrke Happe opened
a coffee-roasting business in 2007. The list
goes on. Last summer, skiers Mark Abma and

DISPATCHES
NEWS FROM THE FIELD

20 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

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03.14
Will and Coral
Frischkorn of Cured
in Boulder, Colorado;
opposite, Cureds
Tuscansin sandwich

Photographs by BENJAMIN RASMUSSEN

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OUTSIDEONLINE.COM

21

03.14

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eaTS (conT.)

Kristi Richards launched Solfeggio, a locally


sourced organic restaurant in Pemberton,
British Columbia. Kiteboarder Gretta Kruesi
and surfer Blake Jamieson plan to open the
Dawn Patrol Truck, in Venice, California,
which will sell breakfast burritos and offer
key-valet services to surfers.
Since most of these entrepreneurs didnt
become millionaires on their bikes or skis,
they have real skin in the notoriously ckle
restaurant game. Bahrke expanded her
business to open three brick-and-mortar
coffee shops, including one in Park City,
Utah. Kruesi and Jamieson raised more than
$20,000 through crowdfunding site Indiegogo to launch the Dawn Patrol Truck, though
the opening has been delayed by permit
issues. Mimis Cookie Bar seems to be ourishing: since opening in 2011, the bakery now
takes wholesale orders and has boosted its
online sales. Frischkorn, meanwhile, started
turning a profit six months after opening
Cured. Still, he doesnt have any romantic
notions about the business. None of this
has been easy, he says. Working in the food

business? Probably just as hard as riding the


Tour de France.

order up!
What to eat
at the five best
joints run by
pro athletes
M.M.
Cured, boulder,
Colorado
former Garminslipstream rider Will
frischkorn opened
this european-style
meat and cheese
shop in august 2011.
our pick: bacon
jam, from Denvers
bakin bakerya
spread made with
bacon, spices,
and coffee extract.
curedboulder.com
el Furniture
Warehouse,
Whistler, b.C.
Co-owners of this
hot spot in Whistler village include
snowboarders j.f.
pelchat and Devun
Walsh and skier
sean pettit.
our pick: every
item on the menu
costs ve bucks.
Get the braisedbeef spaghetti.
warehousewhis.ca

Breaking Virtual Trail

The Team behind GooGle STreeT View iS GoinG off-road,


and Theyre TurninG To you for help

by James Sturz
youve probably used Googles Street
View feature to nd a restaurant, gawk
at your house, or peak into the Grand
Canyon. Soon youll be using it to scout
bomber singletrack. As part of its effort
to build the worlds most comprehensive
map, Google has launched a new program
that will put Trekkers40-pound backpack versions of the cameras used on its
Street View vehiclesin the hands of
trail-management crews, tourism bureaus,
universities, and other nonprots around
the world. The rst Trekker was sent
to Hawaiis Big Island last August, to Rob
Pacheco, cofounder of outtter Hawaii

Mimis Cookie
bar, Mammoth
lakes, California
pro skier Chris
benchetler and his
pro snowboarder
wife, Kimmy fasani,
part-own this glutenfree-friendly bakery.
our pick: the lemonfrosted blueberry
cookie. mimiscookie
bar.com
Solfeggio,
pemberton, b.C.
skier Mark abma
and his ance, former olympic mogul
skier Kristi richards,
opened organic restaurant solfeggio
last summer.
our pick: Gourmet
poutine. solfeggio
foods.com
The rack,
Sugarloaf, Maine
X Games boardercross champ seth
Wescott co-owns
the rack, a bbQ
joint on the road to
sugarloaf Mountain.
our pick: ribs
smothered in sweet
pow pow sauce.
therackbbq.com

22 o u t s i d e m a g a z i n e

Tech

WorldMags.net

Forest and Trail. Its like being a cinematographeryou keep thinking about how
everythings going to look, says Pacheco,

who hiked past ohia lehua trees, lava ows,


and a 400-foot-deep pit crater in Hawaii
Volcanoes National Park while the cameras
15 lenses snapped every 2.5 seconds. When
the Big Island images are released in March,
viewers will be able to navigate 46 miles on
24 trails. (Get an exclusive look at outside
online.com/trekker.)
Google aims to have hundreds of the
360-degree, 75-megapixel devices in the
eld by the end of the year. Which made
us wonder: How do we get our hands on
one? We asked Evan Rapoport, a
33-year-old product manager for
Street View who helps select the
Trekker ambassadors.
>Get afliated. The loan program is limited to organizations in
35 countries. Were looking for
partners who have a lot of respect
for the land and celebrate preservation, says Rapoport. Apply at

goo.gl/SJjB8.
>Think big. Rapoport settled
on Hawaii in part because its
a place people dream of going.

In other words: skip Kansas.


>Make it count. Google partnered with the Charles Darwin
Foundation in 2013 to photograph
critical wildlife habitat in the
Galpagos Islands, providing
baseline visual data for scientists
around the world to track environmental conditions.
>Flaunt your access. Its
tough for Google to get permission
to take commercial photographs in
places like national parkswhich
is why its turning to groups like
Hawaii Forest and Trail, which
already had a relationship with
Volcanoes. If you have permission
to photograph a hard-to-access
place, youll have a better shot.
>If all else fails, DIY. The
search giant recently launched
Photo Sphere, a new feature in
Google Maps that lets users upload location photos to create their
own Street Viewlike panoramas.

illustration by dan WinteRs

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Primer

PILLOW TALK

A ROUGH GUIDE TO PLUMAGE


Fill power: A rating derived from the number
of cubic inches one ounce of down can ll
inside a lab container. The higher a jacket or
sleeping bags ll-power rating, the better its
warmth-to-weight ratio and compressibility.
Goose vs. duck down: Geese have thicker
down clusters and can achieve higher llpower ratings. But an increasing amount
of down is coming from ducks. Despite the
perception that duck down is inferior, the
two insulate identically if rated to the same
ll power. Goose is more durable.
Water resistance: By treating each feather
with a special coating, companies have
gured out how to make a new type of down
insulation that resists moisture up to 60
times longer than untreated down, overcoming the plumes main drawbackthat
it becomes fairly useless when wet.
Live-plucked down: Feathers yanked from
living geese, an ongoing controversy due to
the cruelty of the practice and because no
one knows how much is obtained this way.
This year, the North Face and Patagonia will
introduce certication programs to ensure
that their down is sourced humanely.

Duck and Cover

HOW THE HIGH PRICE OF DOWN IS CHANGING THE INSULATION MARKET

by Christopher Solomon
WANT PROOF THAT the world is at? Consider this: how much you pay for your next jacket

or sleeping bag could depend on whether 1.4 billion Chinese order Peking duck. China produces roughly 70 percent of the worlds down, a by-product of the estimated three million
tons of ducks and geese its population consumes each year. But China is rapidly urbanizing,
and the burgeoning middle class is eating more beef and less fowl. Combine that with panic
over recent bird-u outbreaks and growing demand in the West for jackets, sleeping bags,
and comforters, and the result is a massive spike in down prices. In 2009, a pound sold for
$10; today it goes for $50.
In the U.S., higher materials costs are driving up prices on store shelves, where down jackets and sleeping bags now sell for about 30 percent more than they did ve years ago. That has
some manufacturers ramping up R&D to devise man-made bers that can match downs exceptional warmth-to-weight ratio. Indeed, synthetics are undergoing a massive technological upgrade. On a scale of one to ten, were at ve in terms of potential, says Joe Vernachio,

vice president of global apparel and equipment at the North Face. Well be having sixes and
sevens soon, he says. And a nine or ten? Its out there, Vernachio says, but we havent seen

it yet. Heres a rundown of the current crop of next-gen insulation.

>PRIMALOFT THERMOBALL
What It Is: Clusters of tiny balls of synthetic ber designed to mimic the loft and
compressibility of feathers.
Who Has It: ThermoBall is currently exclusive to the North Face, but expect other
brands to bring out products with it in 2015.
Warmth: One of the most insulating synthetic bers weve ever tested.

>POLARTEC ALPHA
What It Is: Developed for U.S. Special
Forces, its essentially a knit sheet of
polyester that can be sandwiched between
open-weave, breathable fabrics.
Who Has It: 66 North, Eddie Bauer, Marmot, and more than a dozen others.
Warmth: Not nearly as toasty as ThermoBall but lighter and much more breathable.

>DOWN BLENDS
What It Is: A fusion of natural and synthetic insulation.
Who Has It: This fall, Columbia will introduce TurboDown, which combines natural
down with a proprietary insulation and the
companys popular reective technology,
a metallic lining that bounces heat back to
the body. Insulation maker PrimaLoft and
major supplier Allied Feather and Down
have plans to unveil down-poly blends
within the year.
Warmth: Should be comparable to straight
down, but it remains to be seen.

>INFRARED INSULATION
What It Is: Synthetic bers infused with
ceramic or other materials that absorb
body heat and, like a rock in the sun, slowly
radiate it back to the wearer.
Who Has It: Ski-apparel maker Powderhorn has experimented with the technology; the North Face and Allied Feather and
Down are both working on the idea.
Warmth: Mayo Clinic testing on female
soccer players has proven disappointing.
Says North Faces Vernachio: We havent
been able to put it in a product yet that
humans can detect.

24 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

THE DOWN ECONOMY


WHO PROVIDES IT, WHAT WE USE IT
FOR, AND HOW MUCH IT COSTS
Top Producers by Market Share

CHINA

70%

EASTERN
EUROPE

25%

Top Uses in the U.S.

OUTDOOR AND
APPAREL

BEDDING

80% 20%
Average Price
(Per Pound
550-Fill)

WorldMags.net

2009

$10

2013

$100
AT THE PEAK OF
THE ASIAN BIRDFLU OUTBREAK

EDWIN GIESBERS/CORBIS

03.14

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03.14

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Texas Sake
Tumbleweed
(organic junmai)
$35; txsake.com

SakeOne G Fifty
(junmai)
$25; sakeone.com

Blue Current First


Light (junmai)
$25; bluecurrent.net

SakeOne
MomoKawa
(organic nigori)
$14; sakeone.com

Texas Sake Whooping


Crane (organic junmai)
$35; txsake.com

how they make it.


Weve used wine
THE BIGGEST TREND IN AMERICAN
tanks, beer vats,
MICROBREWING IS HANGOVER-FREE, even a screen for
ADVENTURE-FRIENDLY SAKE. KANPAI!
ltering diesel fuel,

by Graham Averill
says Jonathan Robinson, who oversees
IN THE PAST year,
improved, and
production at Bens
the number of com- brewers, long stied Tune Up, a sake pub
mercial makers of
by a lack of indusand beer garden in
craft sake in the U.S. trial rice steamers
Asheville, North
has doubled. The
and other traditional Carolina.
reason for the boom: equipment, have
Most of the new
American rice has
gotten creative with sake specialists are

26 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

STRAIGHT,
NO CHASER

THREE TIPS FOR


DRINKING SAKE THE
RIGHT WAY

1. Quality sake
should be served
chilled, not warm
put it in the fridge.
2. Ditch the ceramic
shot glass. Pour
sake into a wine or
rocks glass.
3. Its a good wine,
not a bottom-shelf
tequila. Sip it, dont
shoot it.

SakeOne
Moonstone Plum
(junmai)
$11; sakeone.com

Spirited Away

Drink

refugees from the


oversaturated craftbeer industry, and
they bring with them
a reverence for small
batches and bold
avors. Steve Vuyl-

steke, president of
Oregons SakeOne,
the countrys largest
craft-sake brewer,
says the industry is
poised for growth;
his companys sales

have jumped 10 percent annually over


the past decade.
All it takes is a few
people to say, We
can make good sake
right here in the
U.S., and it will grow

the same way craft


beer did, he says.

Thats good news


for powder hounds:
sake is free of the
tannins and sultes
that contribute to
hangovers. So you
can indulge and still
make rst chair the
next morning.
A sake brewpub
is the best place to
sample the new offerings. Bens Tune
Up and Moto-I, in
Minneapolis, are
the only two in the
country where you
can get housemade, unltered
sake on draft. But in
the months ahead,
look for Ashevilles
Blue Kudzu, as well
as Blue Current
in Kittery Point,
Maine, to join Texas
Sake Company and
SakeOne in bottling
their wares.

SAKE SMARTS

BEFORE YOU ORDER YOUR NEXT ROUND, KNOW THESE THREE


ESSENTIAL TYPES

Junmai: Pure rice sake, clear and earthy. Best for neophytes.
Nigori: Unltered, cloudy, and bold. Best for IPA lovers.
Namazake: Unpasteurized, wild, typically on draft and only
at brewpubs. Best for the adventurous.

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Photograph by INGA HENDRICKSON

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YOUR TRIP BEGINS HERE

#VisitArkansas

Buffalo National River, Americas First National River

Free yourself from commonplace, and put yourself on the relaxation map in Arkansas. Paddle your way
to picture-perfect vistas, dig up diamonds you can keep, and savor the nest Southern fare all throughout
The Natural State. ORDER YOUR FREE VACATION PLANNING KIT AT ARKANSAS.COM OR CALL 1-800-NATURAL.

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The Danger Zone


QUESTIONABLE USE OF WEARABLE CAMS IS CAUSING A SURGE IN ACCIDENTS

by Chris Dixon
A MOTOCROSS rider drills a three-foot pole
extension into his helmet, affixes a GoPro
camera to it, then wrenches his neck when
the jury-rigged device whacks a tree. An
Australian BASE jumper leaps from a ledge in
Moab, Utah, does a ip, and releases his parachute bridle, and the line wraps around his
chest cam. He falls to his death.
The fact that both of these accidents
happened while people were filming their
adventure exploits isnt surprising. Wearable cameras have made it easier than ever
to chase YouTube stardomand to thwack
yourself in the process. Whats disturbing is
that, increasingly, the placement of the cams
themselves is contributing to the carnage.
Fueled by our desire to capture more interesting non-POV footage, a cottage industry
of aftermarket-accessory companies such
as Get Hypoxic, GoPole, and Sumomoto has
sprung up to allow users to afx cameras to
themselves in various positions. Sumomotos
aluminum GoPro arm mount requires you to
drill holes in your helmet to attach the footlong beam. This sort of customization can

28 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

severely damage the helmet. It also changes


the wearers center of gravity and throws off
his or her balance, which can lead to nasty
outcomes. As Edward Becker, executive
director of the Snell Memorial Foundation, a
helmet advocacy group, puts it, When that
beam comes in contact with the ground or
trees, its going to exert some wicked forces
around your neck.

Some of these manufacturers offer no

Injury

warnings about using their products. Others,


like Get Hypoxic, go to extremes to detail the
risks. The companys website states that one
of its products, the Death Bar Extension,
earned its name because of how risky the
mount can be, especially when used in aerial
sports. I called it that hoping people would
second-guess themselves, says owner Mark

Kirschenbaum. Its a really stupid product.


But there are some applications where it
serves a purpose.

GoPro, far and away the dominant maker


of action cams, has wisely distanced itself
from these products. Were very conscious
about the mounts we sell, says GoPros Rick

Loughery. A pole coming out of a helmet


we dont sell anything like that because of
the potential for accidents.

Theres little indication that wearable


cameras cause safety problems for most
bikers and skiers. But the story changes a bit
when youre jumping out of the sky. Over
the past three years, the skydiving website
Dropzone.com has documented at least 22
accidents, two of them fatal, attributable to
the interference of a wearable camera with
an essential piece of safety equipment.
The camera becomes, to some degree,
a weapon, says one of the Dropzone sites
moderators, Douglas Spotted Eagle. When
a line comes out from a parachute, its a
snag point. Which is why the United States

Parachute Association recommends that a


skydiver complete a minimum of 200 jumps
before even considering strapping on an
action cam.
Back on earth, it probably wont be long
before ski resorts consider regulations. As
with any new technology, the cameras can
create distractions that lead to reckless skiing, says Dave Byrd, of the National Ski Areas

Association. Helmet cams are less of a problem, but weve seen chest-mounted cameras
get caught up on chairlift safety bars. In the

meantime, the rule of thumb remains the


same: use common sense.

THE LINE ACTION CAMERA DOS AND DONTS


Shaun
Whites POV
backip

Ferretin-a-hottub cam

Dog-in-aswimmingpool cam

Strapped
on Dad

< ACCEPTABLE

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Strapped
on baby

Your
buddys
POV
backip

OBJECTIONABLE >

Illustration by SHOUT

FROM LEFT: MICHAEL TRAN/GETTY; FUSE/GETTY; NO CREDIT (2); GLOBAL P/ISTOCK; NICKY BLADE/ISTOCK

03.14

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OUTSIDE TELEVISION 2014

SEE WHATS COMING NEXT


outsidetv.com/sneakpeek

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THE ACTIVE LIFESTYLE LEADER

HUSTLE AND FLOW

Hillbilly
Nation
WHY DUCK DYNASTYS
PHIL ROBERTSON, THE
MOST CONTROVERSIAL
NAME IN REALITY TV,
CANT BE STOPPED

by Grayson Schaffer
BACK IN DECEMBER

of 2013,
Phil Robertson, the bearded
star of A&Es Duck Dynasty,
said some offensive things
The Robertabout black people and gay
son clan
people. Robertson became the
subject of boycotts and counter-boycotts, Cracker Barrel yanked his Duck in March 2012. The season four premiere, in
Commander merch, and A&E suspended August 2013, netted A&E 11.8 million viewthe show. But outrage requires shock, and ers. Last year, Duck Commander merchanRobertsons views shouldnt have come as a dise made more than $400 million. Viewers
surprise to anyone familiar with his empire. laugh, but the joke isnt on the men in camo.
(While Ive watched only a couple of episodes
Theyre highly intelligent guys who dont
of Duck Dynasty, I confess to being a water- get anything pulled over on them, says Duck

fowler and a casual fan of Robertsons more Dynasty executive producer Scott Gurney.
baroque early work, a hook-and-bullet series And theyre funny.

on the Outdoor Channel called Duck ComIts also not a new trick. The Andy Grifth
mander.) The reality stars rants about gross Show, The Beverly Hillbillies, Petticoat Juncsexual immorality are all over the Internet. tionthese were massive hits in the sixties,

Robertson plays a stereotypically backward says Robert Thompson, a professor of popDeep South hillbilly. Americas outrage cen- ular culture at Syracuse University. They
tered on the fact that Robertson embodied were called hick-coms back then.

his caricature too well.


Why are the shows so popular now? Its
Robertson is the biggest star of the big- hard to say whether Americans like to laugh
gest boom in reality TV: hicksploitation. at rubes or are envious of men who can hunt
The genre laughs at (and sometimes with) all day and ignore basic hygiene. One thing
the last group of people its still ostensibly is for surethe shows are immensely protOK to stereotypewhite backwoodsy men. able, in part because theyre cheaper to proThe modern iteration launched in 2011 with duce than man-versus-nature shows like
Animal Planets Hillbilly Handshin, about Deadliest Catch. Duck Dynasty and the rest
Oklahoma catfish noodlers, then MTV of them have modest production values and
offered its West Virginiabased Buckwild. location requirements, says Thompson.

We have now waded deep into swamp counTwo days before Christmas, Cracker Barrel
try, with Discoverys Swamp Loggers, the returned the Duckmen products to its shelves
History Channels Swamp People, and Ani- to appease angry customers. Four days later,
mal Planets Swamp Wars. But Duck Dynasty A&E reinstated the show. Robertson didnt
has dominated the category since debuting comment, but his son Willie, CEO of Duck
Commander products, tweeted, Ole Phil
may be a little crude but his heart is good.
HOT TYPE
Hes the Real Deal!
This month, historian Patrick Allitt
Hed better be. In January, Animal Planet
makes the case that global warming is a
unveiled its latest show, this one about a
manageable threat in A Climate of Crifamily of Canadian trappers called Beaver
sis: America in the Age of EnvironmenBrothers. Its star is a 65-year-old trapper
talism (Penguin, $30)and Elizabeth
named Charlie Landry. I think youll like
Kolbert obliterates that argument in her
him for his expertise, says producer Keith
terrifying book The Sixth Extinction: An
Unnatural History (Henry Holt, $28).
Hoffman. Plus he talks funny.

30 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

Media

In the 1970s, Hungarian psychologist


Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi popularized the
term ow to describe a heightened state
of consciousness. Since then its been
adopted by everyone from Microsoft to
Laird Hamilton to explain peak performance. But what exactly is owa chemical reaction or something more ineffable?
Steven Kotler tries to answer that question in The Rise of Superman: Decoding the
Science of Ultimate Human Performance
(Houghton Mifin Harcourt, $26). MATT
SKENAZY discussed ow states with Kotler.
OUTSIDE: You
note that some
executives are ve
times as productive when in a ow
state, but your
main subjects are
athletes. Why?
KOTLER: One of the
easiest ways to get
into ow is when
the challenge of
the task at hand is
roughly 4 percent
greater than your
skill level. In action
sports, the ante
keeps getting raised.
When an athlete
does something
we once thought
impossible, a ow
state is almost
always responsible.

deep embodiment,
which is one of the
big ow triggers. You
dont do just one
or two of the ow
hacks. You need to
do a lot of them.

Your book covers


everything from
19th-century
experimental psychology to neurobiology. Where are
ow studies going?
In the past, the
psychologists who
studied ow werent
talking with the
neurologists who
studied it. Hopefully, the book will
get everybody on
the same page. The
next step is the Flow
You write that
Genome Project, a
running up ladders collaboration with
or brushing your
scientists and entreteeth with the
preneurs. We want
opposite hand can to align physiolhelp you get into
ogy, neurobiology,
ow. Can small
and psychology. It
things like that
may turn out that
really put you in
elite athletes have
the same frame
blunted receptors,
of mind as surng
so they need more
Mavericks?
dopamine to feel
Those are small
the same sensaexamples that train tions normal people
the different sensory do. Nobody knows.
systems you need
Mainly, we want
to have functioning
everybody to have
to get whats called more ow.

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BRIAN DOBEN/GETTY

03.14

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THERES A LOT
5,',1* ON THIS
$40 Million Goal

The Pan-Mass Challenge (PMC) donates


100% of every rider-raised dollar to Dana-Farber Cancer Institute through the
Jimmy Fund. Founded in 1980, the PMC is an annual bike-a-thon that today
raises more money for charity than any other single event in the country.

PLOOLRQGRQDWHGVLQFH5HJLVWHUQRZWRULGH$XJXVW 

ZZZSPFRUJ
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03.14

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Big Idea

Board Stiff
SHORTSIGHTED MARKETERS MIGHT
BE RUNNING SNOWBOARDING
INTO THE GROUND, BUT IT ISNT
TOO LATE TO SAVE THE SPORT

by Marc Peruzzi
IT SOUNDS LIKE

borderline bigotry to say


it, but I have snowboarding friends. In fact,

from adulthood on, most of my skiing memories are tied up with snowboarding. Frankly,
skiing would be a lot less fun without it. From
twin tips and fat skis to better clothing and a
more laissez-faire attitude at ski resorts, the
advent of snowboarding dramatically altered
my once stale sport. So please trust that Im
not just a hater when I say this: Snowboarding is screwed.
Many a destination resort will admit privately that snowboarding now accounts for
less than 15 percent of total revenue. Others
have seen snowboard visits cut in half. Sales
of snowboarding gear are down dramatically, acter types in a sport that has maintained
too, a whopping 29 percent over the past six its vitality, despite at growth for a decade,
years. Where did all the snowboarders go? by diversifying. Just ski around the resort
Many are skiing. Others simply quit.
and watch as skiers carve Euro-style turns,
It didnt have to be like this. The problem launch off the slopestyle jumps, hammer
isnt snowboarding but the snowboarding bumps, navigate steeps, tour the backcounindustry. The sport was invented by hum- try, rip bottomless pow, race in beer leagues,
ble folks in the Midwest and Vermont, but and cruise blue runs with the family. Theres
action-sport marketers in Southern Califor- a place for everyone.
nia quickly rushed in and took it over. LeverSnowboarding? Not so much. Even the
aging snowboardings rebel cred, they mod- small but vibrant carving community of the
eled its image on skateboarding and aimed it early nineties died out when manufacturalmost entirely at teenagers.
ers turned their backs on it for the crime of
That worked great for a while. Then snow- being unhip. Now mature riders have little
boarding went mainstreamthe X Games, to do when the only good snow is groomed
Mountain Dew ads, Shaun Whiteand, corduroythe boards just arent dynamic
inevitably, it lost a bit of its mojo. The rst enough. The same SoCal mindset stymied
generation of riders got real jobs and started big-mountain pioneer Jeremy Jones, who a
having kids, and snowboardings image never few years back wisely tried to convince the
matured to accommodate them.
major snowboard compaToday the sport is largely run by
nies to embrace backcounfty-something white dudes in
try riding. Hes too nice to
trucker hats, tight jeans, and desay it, but those companies
signer annel who still like to act
pretty much ipped him the
Drop in snowboard
like their target demographic.
bird. Their reasoning? Backsales from 2007 to
Skiing has its share of these
country snowboarding is for
2013, compared with
people, too, of course. Theyre
old dudes. So Jones, now 39,
7 percent for skis
called freeskiers. But they reprefounded his own company
sent only one of the many charand its thriving.

29%

32 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

But juvenile marketers cant take all the


credit for killing snowboarding. The sport
has some fundamental challenges. For one,
its more dangerous than skiing: as a snowboarder, youre more likely to break a wrist
or an arm, and according to a recent study
published in the American Journal of Sports
Medicine, youre also more likely to get a
concussion. This could help explain why
more and more parents are putting their kids
on skis instead of snowboards. (The number
of rst-time snowboarders under the age of
14 is at a 13-year low.) Of course, part of that
decline probably has to do with those same
marketers shunning snowboarding parents.
Who, by the way, do exist. Despite the declines, up to 45 percent of snowboarders are
now over the age of 25.
And why are they hanging on to a sport
that doesnt care about them anymore? Because snowboarding is fun. And, ultimately,
thats all that matters. If, like skiing, the industry does a better job of making everybody
feel comfortable, it might even thrive. If not,
skiing will continue to absorb snowboarders,
much as Homo sapiens absorbed Neanderthals. Take what you will from that analogy.
And allow me to preempt your letter to the
editor: Im a hater.

Photographs by HANNAH
WorldMags.net M CCAUGHEY & MICHAEL KARSH

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DESTINATIONS 03.14

Welcome
to Brazil

Blame It on Rio
BETWEEN THE 2014 WORLD CUP AND THE 2016 SUMMER OLYMPICS, BRAZIL
IS HAVING A MOMENT. BUT WITH SPRAWLING RAINFOREST, ISOLATED
MOUNTAIN RANGES, AND THOUSANDS OF MILES OF BEACHES, ITS ALSO
ONE OF THE WORLDS GREAT ADVENTURE HUBS. TO HELP YOU GET FAR
BEYOND THE CAPITAL, WE TAPPED A TEAM OF LOCAL EXPERTS FOR
THIS INSIDERS GUIDE. BY KATE SIBER

FIND EMPTY SAND


Brazil is deservedly famous for the beaches
of Rio de Janeiro. But the country has 4,654
miles of coastline, and most of it is touristfree. Our favorite spot: Pouso da Cajaiba, a
tiny, rarely visited (but surprisingly accessible) fishing village situated between Rio
and So Paulo. The place has a 400-yard

34 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

slice of perfect yellow sand, a shock of rainforest, one church, a few shermens homes,
and plenty of peace and quiet. You cant
get there by car, and there are no hotels.
Which means its an adventure just showing upyou have to use the visitors association website to arrange a boat ride from the
wharfs at Paraty or Paraty-Mirim and rent a

room from a local (boat ride from $10, rooms


from $25; comunidadedopousodacajaiba
.blogspot.com). Beyond that, theres not
much to worry about. Spend your days
inspecting colorful reef sh in the turquoise
shallows, wandering footpaths to ocean
lookouts, and rinsing off in waterfalls.

SEE THE AMAZON


A visit to the Mamirau Sustainable Development Reserve, located in Brazils remote
Amazonas state, is like seeing a 2.8-millionacre chunk of the Amazon as it existed half a
century ago. Mamirau is home to the worlds
largest protected freshwater swamp forests,
wildlife like squirrel monkeys and caica

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JOAO CANZIANI; JOAO CANZIANI/GETTY; ANA HOMONNAY; JOAO CANZIANI; COURTESY OF HOTEL BARRA MANSA; IGNACIO ARONOVICH/LOUISE CHIN; ANA HOMONNAY; MARLOS BAKKER

WHERE TO GO NOW

Brazil

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Jalapo
guide

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: JEFERSON JESS; MAURICIO DUEAS/CORBIS; VISTA IMAGENS

Pouso da
Cajaiba

BECOME A LOCAL
Brazilians are the treasure of their
own country. The adventures are all
here, from waterfalls and beaches to
craggy peaks and trackless wilderness. But the real magic is this
colorful, happily chaotic culture that
overcomes all obstacles. In 2003,
before heading up the Xingu River to
look for some of the last great mahogany stands in the world, I stopped
at the tin-roofed mercado in Manaus
and bought a hammock. A few
nights later, I slung it on a crowded
riverboat among scores of Brazilians.
The adventure that followed was
epicten days of mahogany forests,
river dolphins, and howler monkeys
at sunsetbut that rst night on the
river changed me forever. Maybe it
was the itchy fabric, but I stayed up
all night, watching as my fellow passengers created a complex society, a
oating Brazil. Poor and middle-class,
young and old, black and brown and
white, everyone passed food around,
whispered quietly, and pursued the
mysterious arts of eating, sleeping,
and falling in love while suspended in
a hive of swaying net bags. That rst
night they fed me, included me, didnt
laugh when I spoke Portuguese. They
taught me to go diagonal in the hammock; they taught me that Brazilians
will give anyone a chance. For a while,
I was a citizen of their little country,
and part of you never comes home
from that. PATRICK SYMMES

parrots, a mess of rivers and lakes, and precisely one eco-lodgeUacari, which is run
by local communities ($610 for three nights;
pousadauacari.com.br). Guests stay on a
pod of ve oating wooden bungalows with
porches and canoe the maze of waterways
to spot three-toed sloths, red-faced uakari
monkeys, and pink river dolphins. There are
two ways to get here. You can y from Manaus
to Tef, then hop Uacaris shuttle boat to the
lodge. Or, if you have the time, ride the ferry
up the Solimes River from Manaus. Itll take
48 hours and youll sleep in a hammock, but
youll see tiny riverside communities, spot
countless life-list-worthy birds, and get a
full-immersion experience in the worlds
largest jungle.

OR FIND A CLOSER JUNGLE


The Amazon gets all the glory, but Brazil
is also dense with rare tracts of biodiverse
Atlantic rainforest. Itatiaia National Park,
a four-hour drive from Rio de Janeiro, is
the best place to see it. Stay at Hotel Donati
(from $138; hoteldonati.com.br), a collection
of three wood-paneled chalets with fireplaces that were built before the park was
founded in 1937. Spend your days on trails
through forests studded with ferns, orchids,
and bromeliads where sloths and wildcats
live. Or hire a park guide to explore beautiful
high-altitude grasslands punctuated by bare

9,000-foot granite
peaks (arrange with
the hotel).

ONLY IN BRAZIL

NEYMARS HAIR

FEAST
What New York City
is to the American
culinary scene, So
Paulo is to Brazils.
Thriving immigrant
populations in the
worlds seventhlargest city (pop. 20 million) support a wildly
diverse food culture. We asked our experts to
put together the ideal tasting menu.
1) Manish serves kaftas (beef kebabs),
eshas (Arabian stuffed pizzas), and other
Middle Eastern specialties in a shining modern dining room with banquettes and indoor
trees. manishrestaurante.com.br
2) In Vila Nova Conceio, an upscale
neighborhood, Kinoshita has sushi and
sashimi like salmon with yuzu fragrance and
white trufe. restaurantekinoshita.com.br
3) At D.O.M., chef Alex Atalaone of
the countrys food pioneerstransforms
Brazilian ingredients like hearts of palm and
priprioca roots sourced from small-scale
Amazonian farmers into adventurous, modernist creations like ceviche marinated with
native owers. domrestaurante.com.br
4) Alberto Landgraf of Epice cooks up

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OUTSIDEONLINE.COM

35

03.14

WorldMags.net
Epice

Spot,
So
Paolo

Its no surprise that


surfing has spread
from Rio, where
local legends like
O tav i o P a c h e c o
cultivated the sport
in the 1960s, to hot
spots up and down
the coast. Today,
v i s i t i n g s u r fe rs
have an astounding range of charted (and
not-so-charted) breaks. Beginners: head
to Itamambuca, in the north of So Paulo
state. Though its packed with surfers, the
mellow vibe and swath of Atlantic forest

ZON

AMA

ATLANTIC
OCEAN

RIVE

MAMIRAU
SUSTAINABLE
DEVELOPMENT
RESERVE

FORTALEZA
JALAPO
STATE
PARK

B R A Z I L
BRASLIA

CHAPADA
DIAMANTINA
NATIONAL PARK

PANTANAL

MEET THE EXPERTS


To pick the best of Brazil, we turned to a trusty source: the staff at Outsides
Brazil edition. Editor in chief Andrea Estevam, an avid biker, runner, and
adventure racer, and her team of six editors have been covering the active
lifestyle in Brazil since 2005 and gave us the inside track. Plus, theyre letting
us crash on their couches during the World Cup. Muito obrigado!

36 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

SALVADOR

SO PAULO

PORTO
ALEGRE

OURO PRTO
TIRADENTES
RIO DE JANEIRO
ILHA GRANDE
POUSO DA CAJAIBA
PARATY

NORTH
750 MILES

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RECIFE

SERRA DO CIP
NATIONAL PARK
ITATIAIA
NATIONAL
PARK

FERNANDO
DE NORONHA

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: TADEU BRUNELLI; COURTESY OF HOTEL BARRA MANSA; LUIS FABINI; COURTESY OF MANISH; TADEU BRUNELLI

CAPYBARA

The
patio at
Manish

dishes like sea bass with braised leeks, cassava our, and lemon puree. Plus: raw brazilnut ice cream. epicerestaurante.com.br
5) A glass-walled bistro near busy Paulista
Avenue, Spot serves Brazilian specialties
like beef stew with cassava and plantains.
restaurantespot.com.br
6) At So Cristvo, waiters dress like
referees and serve stews, roasts, and bottles beneath a canoe, and
of Antarctica beer in a room plastered with ride a Pantaneiro
soccer memorabilia. 011-55-11-3097-9904 horse into the low
forests and grassRIDE WITH GAUCHOS
lands. Rooms are
South Americas famously rugged cowboys simple, but dinner
arent just an Argentinean thing. Only a few is everything youd
of them are still working, owing to Brazils expect from a meatincreasingly urban economy, but you can see eating South Amerithem at Barra Mansa, a 19th-century farm can region: roasted
and homestead where gauchos guide herds wild pig and rich
of cattle across the rivers of the Pantanal, one caribu, a jerky and
of the worlds largest freshwater wetlands. cassava stew. From
The Pantanal is also the place to fish for $374; hotelbarra
dorado, watch caimans and stingrays swim mansa.com.br

SURF AWAY

ONLY IN BRAZIL

Brazilian
gaucho

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Mole
Beach,
Santa
Catarina

Fernando
de Noronha

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JOAO CANZIANI; MARCIO PIMENTA; ANA HOMONNAY; LALO DE ALMEIDA/SAMBAPHOTO; CHRIS SCHMID/AURORA; ALEX ROBINSON/GETTY

attracts hikers and birdwatchers. Base out


of Itamambuca Eco Resort, which has surf
instructors and a quiver of rental boards
for beginners (from $228; itamambuca
.com.br). Looking for something more serious? Head to Maresias, 60 miles east of So
Paulo. This white-sand beach stretches for
three miles, and though the water is clear,
its rough. Consistent waves have attracted
a number of local and international competitions, including a stop on the ASP tour.
Surf House Maresias offers simple rooms
and surfboard storage (from $30; surfhouse
maresias.com.br). For a truly wild adventure, take the 336-mile flight (from $379;
voetrip.com.br) to Fernando de Noronha,
an archipelago of 21 dark, volcanic islands
known as the Brazilian Hawaii. Big Atlantic
swells slam into the island from December
to March, creating barreling ten-footers
all backed by black cliffs and a riot of greenery. Crash in one of Pousada Maravilhas ve
bungalows, where wooden hot tubs overlook
a panorama of toothy volcanic rocks and
the serene Sueste Bay (from $590; pousada
maravilha.com.br).

Calhetas,
near
Maresias

Joaquina
Beach

Sueste
Bay view,
Fernando
de Noronha

Brazil

Maresias

TRAVEL ADVISORY

BRAZILS SAFETY ISSUES ESPECIALLY IN MAJOR CITIESARE WELL-KNOWN.


COMPARED WITH NORTH AMERICA OR WESTERN EUROPE, YOU DO HAVE TO BE
A LOT MORE CAREFUL, SAYS MICHAEL SOMMERS, WHO HAS LIVED IN BRAZIL FOR
15 YEARS AND WRITTEN THREE MOON HANDBOOKS ABOUT THE COUNTRY. STAY
SAFE WITH THESE SIX SIMPLE STRATEGIES.

1. Blend in.
Dress simply.
Dont wear expensive jewelry, and
dont ash gadgets
or walk around with
fancy bags, says
Sommers, who
carries his DSLR in
a nondescript bag
and brings only a
small point-andshoot into cities.
2. Dont stop.
Thieves sometimes
rob drivers stuck in
gridlock or waiting
at trafc lights. In
most Brazilian cities, drivers dont always stop for a red
light, they just slow
down, Sommers

says. Keeping your


windows rolled up
is a good idea but
no guarantee. Even
with the windows
up, dont use your
iPhone or iPad
publicly, says Luke
Bencie, president of
Security Management International,
which runs security
details for executives and foreign
delegations in
Brazil. Smash-andgrabs are pretty
common at busy
intersections.

you can cancel if


stolen. And make it
hard to locate. You
need pockets with
zippers or a money
belt. But the rule is:
Never put anything
in your pockets you
dont want to lose.
(Another option: a
pair of pickpocketproof pants from
ClothingArts.com.)

4. Hand it over.
If you do have a
run-in with a thief,
advises Sommers,
Give up your stuff
without a ght.
3. Avoid cash.
You dont want to
Everybody accepts nd out if theyre
cards, Sommers
packing a knife,
says. Stick to one
a bottle, or a gun.

WorldMags.net

5. Ask around.
Dont just wander
off on an isolated
beach or trail, Sommers says. Instead,
get tips from locals.
Most Brazilians
are very warm and
helpful. Theyll tell
you if its unsafe.
6. Speak
Portuguese.
Only about 3 percent of Brazilians
speak English, says
Bencie. If you want
to upset a Brazilian, use your high
school Spanish. Its
offensive. Its much
better to fumble
through a little bit
of Portuguese.

OUTSIDEONLINE.COM

37

Bandolim
player,
Salvador
de Bahia

Salvadors
So Francisco
church

GET CULTURED
Rio has the beaches and So Paulo has the
food, but the state of Bahia, in the countrys
northeast, is the center of Brazils Afroinuenced music and arts traditions. Head
for Salvador, a sprawling city of 2.7 million
people, and stay in Casa do Amarelindo, a
19th-century manONLY IN BRAZIL
sion with ten guest
FOOT VOLLEY
rooms and a rooftop
terrace that overlooks the bay (doubles from $170;
casadoamarelindo
.com). Spread out
through the city to
see capoeira circles
forming in public
squares, gatherings

Bahia
beach

Cooling
off

of mystical candombl practitioners, and


festas alive with costumes and drumbeats.
For a little adventure, visit the inland Chapada Diamantina National Park. Install
yourself at Vila Esperana and enjoy the redrock buttes, verdant mountainsides, waterfalls, and caves with perfectly clear pools
(from $63; vilaesperanca.com.br).

CHASE GIANT FISH

VIVO FUTEBOL!
First off, if youre not a rabid soccer fan,
you dont want to be anywhere near Brazil
during the World Cup in June and July. Not
only will food and lodging be far more expensive, but the largest single-sport event
in the world is always a mess of logistical
problemsand it will only be worse in a
place where soccer is bigger than religion.
That said, if you like soccer, the World Cup
is undoubtedly the wildest spectator event
on earth. Expect big crowds, massive parties, and endless waits for service. Heres
how to take in the games.
Score tickets. The opening and closing
matches are practically sold out. But FIFA
.com always releases extra tickets (usually
leftovers from corporate sponsors) two
months before the World Cup begins. You
can also sign on with an outtter like Sports
Traveler, which takes care of all the logistics
($8,565, including 12 nights of accommodations in three cities and all domestic
transportation; sportstraveler.net).
Party on. Cant land a ticket but still
want to be in the country? The best place
to watch in just about any Brazilian city is in
the FIFA-designated park or square where
the game will be broadcast live. You have
beer vendors there and people from every
country, says Sports Traveler owner Anbritt
Stengele. Its fun no matter whos playing.
Take the bus. Try to rely on public transit as much as possible, says Stengele. FIFA
offers match transportation, and companies like Sports Traveler run charter buses
between hotels and venues for clients. The
security perimeters are going to be a long
distance from the venues, she says. Which
means driving yourself will be both insane
and ineffective.
Stay smart. Lodging will already be 50
percent more expensive than usual, says
Stengele. But you can avoid getting totally
screwed by staying outside of the most
popular cities. Try Manaus, Recife, and
Natalwhere the U.S. national team happens to be playing, and where rooms may be
a few hundred dollars cheaper than in Rio.
The trade-off? Getting to these remote cities could cost you as much as youre saving.

Peacock bass are outrageously colorful,


grow to 15 pounds or more, and have awful
tempers. Theyre like largemouth bass on
steroids, says Hank Ingram of Frontiers
Travel, which runs seven-night trips to the
Warekena Fly Fishing Sanctuary. Angling on
the catch-and-release reserve in the Amazons Negro River Basin is at its peak between
January and March, when the oodwaters

ALL INCLUSIVE
Its impossible to do everything we list here in one visit. Thankfully, Adventure Life has
a ten-day trip that starts on Rios Copacabana Beach, travels to the historic port city
of Paraty, where you can choose between whitewater rafting through rainforest or hiking along a centuries-old trade route to a waterfall and a cachaa distillery, and wraps
things up on car-free Ilha Grande, an 18-mile island with awless white-sand beaches.
$1,945; adventure-life.com

38 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

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03.14

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Ouro
Preto
downhill

Brazil

Brazils
canyonlands

Jalapo
lowlands

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: HARUKI NOGUCHI/ARRIVAL; HARUKI NOGUCHI; DANIEL DEK; ISTOCK; TOBBE/CORBIS; INTERSECTION PHOTOS

Peacock
bass

Caipirinha

have receded and the bass are concentrated


in rivers hunting for baitsh. Its possible to
land a 22-pounder on a y rod here, but dont
expect it to be easy. They hit the y hard, take
to the air quickly, and ght like bulls. $5,990
for seven nights; frontierstravel.com

ORDER WISELY
At one time, only Brazils working classes
drank cachaa, a rum-like spirit distilled
from fermented sugarcane juice. Today its
ubiquitous. Youll find the best variety at
Rios Academia da Cachaa (academiada
cachaca.com.br), an unpretentious bar in the
Leblon neighborhood that stocks a hundred
brands. Sip the ner ones, like Esprito de
Minas and Cachaa Salinas, on the rocks. But
also try a caipirinha, the Brazilian version of
the margarita and the de facto national drink.
The key to getting a good one: make sure its
made with cachaa (not vodka), sugar, and
lime (not berries).

VISIT THE LOCAL PLAYGROUND


You can nd everything from rainforests to
deserts to mountains in Brazil. To see a bunch
of it in one place, head for Jalapo. The 614square-mile state park between the Amazon
and the sea has what is arguably the most

you want to get out of the city, head to Serra


dos rgos and its iconic toothy peaks. But
if youre a serious runner and want to see the
best the country has to offer, head for the
Serra Fina mountain range, halfway between
So Paulo and Rio. Stay at the rustic cabins
on 67-acre Refugio Serra Fina ($95; refugio
serrana.com.br), and head out on the 20mile traverse between Passa Quatro and
Cruzeiro, a vertiginous mountain trail with
panoramic views of the cloud banks below.

ONLY IN BRAZIL
diverse terrain in the
THE SUNGA
country. Join local
outfitter Rota da
Iguana for a threeday trip and youll
get to skid down
100-foot sand dunes,
swim in psychedelic-colored waterfalls like Cachoeira
do Formiga, bounce
through the deep hydraulics of the Novo and
Soninho Rivers on a raft, and explore fervedourassprings where you can sit back and
take it all in. $500; rotadaiguana.com.br

EXPLORE THE TRAILS


Brazil is on the verge of becoming a prime
trail-running destination. A number of new
racesfrom a vertical-K, which gains nearly
a kilometer in altitude, up the Morro do Aracatuba, to an ultra-race series in the state of
Minas Geraisare sprouting up, thanks to the
varied terrain and ease of access. The North
Face even opened a runner-centric store in
So Paolo (thenorthface.com.br). Within
the Rio city limits, try the Tijuca National
Park for its 124 miles of pathways meandering through 15 square miles of rainforest. If

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PHRASE BOOK

A LITTLE PORTUGUESE GOES A LONG WAY


IN BRAZIL. WE ASKED PRISCILLA GOSLIN,
A 40-YEAR RIO RESIDENT AND AUTHOR
OF THE BOOK HOW TO BE A CARIOCA (A
NICKNAME FOR SOMEONE WHO LIVES IN
RIO) FOR A FEW CRUCIAL PHRASES.

Mais folgado que peido em


bombacha.
Translation: Looser than a fart in
a gauchos trousers.
Use When: Describing a person who
takes advantage of others.
Oi gostosa, voc muita areia pro
meu caminho!
Translation: Hi, delicious, youre too
much sand for my truck!
Use When: Picking up a girl at the
beach.
Gato, queria ser um video game, s
pra voc me jogar no sof, seu lindo!
Translation: Cat, Id like to be a video
game, just so you can play me on the
sofa, you pretty!
Use When: Picking up a guy anywhere.
Me v uma estupidamente gelada.
Translation: Show me a stupidly
freezing.
Use When: Ordering a cold beer.

OUTSIDEONLINE.COM

39

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40 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

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B O DY W O R K S P E C I A L

ready,
set, go
nuts!

13

THIRTEEN REASONS WHY NOW


IS THE TIME TO SLAP DOWN AN
ENTRY FEE, PIN ON A RACE BIB,
AND HEAD TO THE START LINE

photographs by JEFF CLARK

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41

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Snow
biking
in Italy

YOU DONT
HAVE TO TAKE
WINTERS OFF

RAISING MONEY ONCE A YEAR IS GREAT. SO IS PUSHING YOURSELF


TO THE LIMIT. BUT TODAYS RACING CULTURE IS ALL ABOUT THE FUN.
To be sure, there are some awesome charity
events out there. Last year, the Boston and
New York Marathons raised $40 million for
nonprots, and since 1988, Team in Training, the fundraising arm of the Leukemia
and Lymphoma Society, has brought in $1.4
billion. Theres also no denying the personal
satisfaction derived from pushing your limits for ten months to earn a new personal
record in the event of your choice.
But while we admire the goal setting and
the philanthropy, todays competitive landscapewith its rowdy obstacle courses, diverse cycling events, unsanctioned running
and mountain-biking competitions, and
demanding winter racescan make signing
up for a single annual fundraiser seem like
hitting the ski slopes once a year.
Legions of amateur athletes are entering
a dozen or more races annuallyin some instances, two or three a month. Yes, the events
are challenging. And nothing provides that
extra bit of training motivation like a series
of races blocked out on the calendar.
Meanwhile, race organizers are retooling
events to make them more fun, offering swag
(like Warrior Dashs boast-worthy viking

42 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

helmets), placing emcees along the course


rather than just at the end, and offering music
and free beer at the nish.
At Central Californias Wildflower Triathlon, 35,000 spectators and athletes camp
out on the shores of Lake San Antonio for the
weekend, heckle race participants, and consume plenty of libations at night. Its dirty,
its hardtheres no slickness about it, says

three-time winner Jesse Thomas. You show


up with your friends and family, you compete,
you push yourself, and then you go celebrate
a little too much. Its a microcosm of what life
should be about. We couldnt agree more.

OUTSIDE ENDORSED

TRAIL RUNS

North Face Endurance Challenge:


Bear Mountain, New York; May. A beginner-friendly ultra or 10K, 40 miles north
of Manhattan. thenorthface.com
Pengelly Double Dip: Missoula, Montana; June. Gain 2,700 feet over 13 miles
in the Sapphire Mountains. runwild
missoula.org
Imogene Pass Run: Ouray, Colorado;
September. Seventeen miles of San
Juan Mountain wilderness, bookended
by Ouray and Telluride. imogenerun.com

REPLICATE THE CONDITIONS


Train in low temperatures as often as
you can. According to a 2012 study in the
European Journal of Applied Physiology,
cold-acclimatized men dont require as
much oxygen as nonacclimatized men. To
stay warm, your body has a natural tendency to shiver, constrict blood vessels,
and increase metabolism, all of which can
detract from performance. If you dont live
where its cold, travel somewhere that is
for a weekend or two of training in conditions similar to what youll nd on the
racecourse. And if you live in, say, Florida,
wake up early and train when its still cool.
GET THE GEAR
The right equipment is crucial to making cold-weather workouts fun and safe.
Stabilize yourself on icy running trails with
Kahtoolas MicroSpikes ($65; kahtoola
.com), or go DIY and screw Ice Spikes
into your shoes ($25; icespike.com). For
snowshoeing, Atlass Run snowshoes
($210; atlassnowshoes.com) are a good
choice for most conditions. For fat biking,
Specializeds beefy Ground Control tires
($50; specialized.com) will help you oat
over powdery snow.

WorldMags.net

FROM LEFT: FRANCESCO COCCO/CONTRASTO/REDUX; GUGHI FASSINO/LUZPHOTO/REDUX

YOU DONT HAVE TO TREAT


U
IT LI
LIKE WORK

FROM FAT BIKING AND SNOWSHOE


RACING TO WINTER TRAIL RUNNING,
THERE HAS NEVER BEEN MORE
OPPORTUNITYOR MORE VARIETY
FOR COMPETING ON SNOW.
HERES HOW TO THRIVE WHEN
THE MERCURY DROPS.

WorldMags.net

JAKE STANGEL

Wisconsins
American
Birkebeiner

MANAGE YOUR BODY HEAT


On your feet and hands: Appendages
freeze rst, so make sure theyre properly
covered. Wool socks manage moisture
best. Waterproof shoes like Brookss
Adrenaline ASR 10 ($125; brooksrunning
.com), paired with low-prole trail gaiters
from Salomon ($30; salomon.com), minimize wetness. On your paws, Sauconys
convertible Ulti-Mitts ($45; saucony
.com) are both gloves and mittensjust
pull the covers over your ngers when you
need extra wind protection. On a cross or
fat bike, the rubberized shell of 45Nrths
Fasterkatt boots ($225; 45nrth.com) provides wind and water resistance.
On your body: Layering is key in cold
temperatures. Wear a wicking base layer,
like SmartWools NTS Mid 250 Crew
($95; smartwool.com), to stay dry, with
a midlayer like Voormis nylon High-E
Hoodie ($229; voormi.com) over the top.
On extremely cold or snowy days, a waterand windproof shell like Helly Hansens
Odin Foil ($140; hellyhansen.com) should
be your outer layer.

OUTSIDE ENDORSED

SNOW RACES

Arrowhead 135: International Falls,


Minnesota; January. A ski-run-bike race
at 20 below. arrowheadultra.com
American Birkebeiner: Cable, Wisconsin; February. Thirty-one miles on
cross-country skis. birkie.com
Elk Mountain Grand Traverse:
Crested Butte, Colorado; March. Forty
miles from C.B. to Aspen, starting at
midnight. elkmountaintraverse.com

On your head: Use ear warmers or


a lightweight wool or eece hat to stay
warm without overheating. Vaseline prevents cheeks and noses from chapping in
cold wind, and dont forget sunblock and
lip balmwinter rays reecting off snow
can be especially strong. Keep cold air out
of your lungs by pulling a balaclava over
your neck and mouth. The Gorilla, by Outdoor Research ($56; outdoorresearch
.com), has a eece interior and a removable nose cover for tailored protection.

STAY HYDRATED
Youll sweat even on the coldest days,
and dry winter air sucks moisture from
your body. CamelBaks StoAway ($55;
camelbak.com) holds 100 ounces of water
in an insulated reservoir and tubejust
be sure to start off with warm water.
For more serious endurance races, start
hydrating at least two days before the
event. If youre even slightly dehydrated
going into it, your performance can be
affected by as much as 6 percent.
WARM UP INDOORS
Getting limber in the cold can be challenging, so do it inside. Spend at least
ten minutes performing dynamic movements like lunges, squats, and jumping
jacks, which engage the muscles youll use
on the racecourse. Then move outside and
do some easy jogging and a set of striders
to prime your body for higher intensity.
Make sure you time everything right: if
possible, avoid lingering outside for more
than ten minutes between your warm-up
and the start of a race.

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43

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OUTSIDE ENDORSED

MARATHONS

Avenue of the Giants:


Humboldt Redwoods
State Park, California;
May. Run under a breathtaking canopy. theave.org
Pikes Peak Marathon:
Manitou Springs, Colorado; August. A full marathonwith a 2,000-foot
vertical gain over three
miles near the top. pikes
peakmarathon.org
New York City
Marathon: November. All ve boroughs,
50,000 people. tcsnyc
marathon.org

This single, adaptable regimen will get you through any competition in style. For general
tness, follow the seven-day basic cardio plan on top, then customize it to the race youre
training for with the speed, endurance, and strength modications described below.

DAY 1*

DAY 2

DAY 3

DAY 4

DAY 5

DAY 6

DAY 7

Swim
30 to 45
minutes

Bike one
hour and
run 30
minutes
afterward

Swim 45
minutes

Run 45
minutes

Recovery
day

Bike 1.5 to
2.5 hours

Run a minimum
of one hour,
increasing no
more than 10
percent per week

RACE

*After the rst week, use this as an extra recovery day if you need it.

OLYMPICDISTANCE
TRIATHLON

TRAIL HALF
MARATHON

DAY 2

DAY 7

CUSTOMIZE WITH

If youre in any sort


of shape, you can
probably jump off the
couch and huff your
way through a local trail
run, obstacle race, or
10K. Of course, there
are more effective
approaches. Your performance will drastically improve with a
training scheduleand
it doesnt have to be
complicated. To that
end, we tapped worldchampion triathlete
and coach Siri Lindley.
Her triathlon-inspired
plan is not too easy,
not too tough, and
can be modied to t
any sport. Swimming,
running, and cycling
are a great combination for getting t,
getting strong, and
feeling good, Lindley
says. The variation in
sports will give you that
full-body conditioning
that everyone strives
for. Repeat weekly for
lasting tness.

THE OUTSIDE DIY TRAINING PLAN

BRICK TRAINING
Transitioning from
biking to running
known as the brick
because your legs
feel like oneslows
most people down.
Brick sessions help
your body adapt to
the feeling of running
off the bike, which
is awkward at rst,
coach Lindley says.
As you improve, throw
in some intensity.

DISTANCE
TRAINING
Putting in longer
miles strengthens
your legs and stabilizer muscles to help
keep you injury-free,
Lindley says. It also
works your aerobic
system, so youll be
able to push yourself
on race day.

HERES HOW

YOU
DONT
NEED A
PH.D. IN
FITNESS

15 minutes of warmup on the bike


5 reps of 20 seconds
hard effort, 40 seconds of easy spin
5 reps of one minute
hard effort, with a
minute of easy spin
after each
5 minutes of strong
effort, then 5 minutes of easy spin
10 minutes running
immediately off the
bike at an easy pace
10 minutes of running, alternating
20-second hardrunning intervals
with 40-second
easy jogs

Pay attention to
formshoulders
back, chest forwardand maintain a good rhythm.
Your longest run
(10 to 12 miles)
should be done
three weeks ahead
of the race. Then
taper, halving your
long-run mileage
a week before the
race. Dont go hard
on your long runs,
Lindley says. You
risk injury, and your
hard days wont
be as good as they
could be.

44 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

10K

DAY 4

OBSTACLE
COURSE
DAYS 4 AND 7

SPEED TRAINING
Transform your
45-minute run into a
high-intensity interval
session by progressing through the steps
below. Running fast
will help improve your
pacing and aerobic
capacity, Lindley says.

STRENGTH
TRAINING
Climbing over walls,
hanging from monkey
barsthese require
upper-body strength,
a weak link for many
endurance athletes.
Core work is essential for holding your
technique together
when fatigue sets in
during a race, Lindley
says. Itll prepare you
to go the distance
without injuring
yourself.

5 minutes easy
warm-up
30 seconds fast,
30 seconds easy
1 minute fast,
30 seconds easy
2 minutes fast,
1 minute easy
3 minutes fast,
1.5 minutes easy
3 minutes fast,
1.5 minutes easy
2 minutes fast,
1 minute easy
1 minute fast,
30 seconds easy
30 seconds fast,
30 seconds easy
Cool down

Perform our
20-minute BodyWeight Strength
Workout (see You
Dont Need a Gym
Membership, page 47)
twice a week. Lindley
recommends leaving
three days between
strength sessions
to start with. As you
become stronger, you
can do them three
days per week.

the complete plan and two of Lindleys swim


OO Forto outsideonline.com/racereportplan. workouts,
go
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Future podium
seekers at
New Yorks
Jingle Bell Jog

YOU DONT HAVE TO DITCH THE KIDS

ROBERT WRIGHT

FINALLY, MORE RACES ARE OFFERING CHILD-CARE OPTIONS FOR ACTIVE PARENTS BY SAM MOULTON

My wife, Nicole, is a devout CrossFitter. Im fast I got grass burns on my legs), but after the fun, too. The popular Rev3 triathlon races
an avid runner and cyclist. Although neither race we both agreed that the babysitting fee offer supervised areas for kids, and this year,
of us had competed in an obstacle-course was the best $40 wed ever spent. The other in addition to kid-friendly obstacles in the
race before, we were both curious. Then, last mud-caked, squishy-shoed parents at the spectator area, all 130-plus Spartan Races will
summer, while visiting Durango, Colorado, nish seemed equally pleased.
have on-site child care. The smarter ones
While aid stations are still far more prev- are already doing it, says Mike Reilly, VP of
we learned that the Durango Mountain Re
sorts Muck and Mire race was the following alent than babysitters at most races, thats endurance events at Active.com, the worlds
morning. It sounded like a perfect rst stab starting to change. From local 10Ks to more largest site for participatory sports, and
not too long (5K and 10K options), with PG-13 serious endurance races, event organizers more established events are trying to gure
obstacles like hay bales and cargo nets, and a are realizing that if they make their events out how to do it, too.

beer garden at the nish. The catch: we had attractive to families, more people will sign
With so many races out there, its a sound
up. Some series, like Rock n Roll, have kids business move. Plus, kids are future customour kids, Lily, 5, and Beck, 2, with us.
Thats when Nicole read the ne print and races to encourage participation. Instead of ers. After the Muck and Mire, I asked Lily
came across the magic words: Child care ditching your family for a weekend of racing, what she thought of obstacle racing. Her
provided, 8 A.M. to noon, $20 per child. Res- youll bring them with youand theyll have reply: Awesome!
ervations required.

The next morning at 9 A.M., we


OUTSIDE Spring Thaw trail run
Spartan Race: Dozens
Merrell Down
ENDORSED and mountain-bike
were at the start line. Some of the
of locations and dates.
and Dirty Mud Run:
obstacles were gimmicky (rolling
Multiple locations and
FAMILY- race: Ashburn, Virginia; The toughest obstacle
series also has kiddates. Serious obstacles
under stacked logs; wading across
FRIENDLY March. Running and
friendly challenges
for you, kid-friendly
RACES riding some of the
a shallow, stinky pond), and others
Easts best singletrack.
and on-site day care.
versions for them. down
were more aggressive (the slip-andrev3adventure.com
spartanrace.com
anddirtymudrun.com
slide shot me off the plastic sheet so

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45

Pumpkin
oatmeal

WorldMags.net
PIECE OF CAKE

Simple guidelines to keep


you fueled properly
Focus on Quality
What you eat falls into ten basic
categories according to quality.
In descending order, they are:
(1) vegetables, (2) fruits, (3) nuts,
seeds, and healthy oils, (4) sh
and lean meats like chicken and
turkey, (5) whole grains, (6) dairy,
(7) rened grains like white-our
pasta, (8) fatty meats like bacon,
(9) sweets, and (10) fried foods.
Try to eat from the rst ve categories most often, with occasional dips into the second ve.

YOU DONT
HAVE TO EAT
LIKE A MONK

SMART NUTRITION ISNT ABOUT


EATING RESTRICTIVELY. ITS KNOWING
HOW TO FIT HIGH-QUALITY MEALS INTO
A HECTIC LIFESTYLEBY SHOPPING
FOR THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS, HAVING
GO-TO RECIPES, AND MAKING SURE YOU
EAT RIGHT WHEN YOUR BODY NEEDS A
BOOST. HERE, ENDURANCE COACH AND
AUTHOR MATT FITZGERALD SHARES
HIS FAVORITE WEEKDAY MEALS.
PUMPKIN AND MAPLENUT OATMEAL
This fun twist on a familiar
breakfast incorporates three
energy-packed foods
nuts, vegetables, and whole
grainsinto a high-carb
meal thats ideal for heavy
training days.
Servings: 2
Cooking time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:
cup canned PUMPKIN
teaspoon SALT
1 cups ROLLED OATS
(also called oldfashioned oats)
1 tablespoon PUMPKINPIE SPICE
2 tablespoons PECANS,
chopped
2 tablespoons MAPLE
SYRUP
Directions:
(1) Combine pumpkin and
salt with three cups of water
in a small saucepan and bring
to a boil. (2) Add oats and
pumpkin-pie spice. When
mixture starts to bubble,
reduce heat to low. Stir occa-

sionally until oats are cooked


and thickened, about eight
minutes. (3) Top with pecans
and maple syrup.
Nutrition per serving:
362 calories, 9 grams fat,
63 grams carbohydrates,
11 grams dietary ber,
10 grams protein
GARDEN MINESTRONE
SOUP WITH KALE
This hearty, easy-to-make
soup has 2.5 servings of muscle-protecting, antioxidantpacked vegetables. Fix it
ahead of time, take it to work,
and heat it up for a midday
meal thats more nutritious
than a sandwich and more
satisfying than a salad.
Servings: 2
Cooking time: 50 minutes

Ingredients:
14 ounces canned
DICED TOMATOES
WITH JUICE
15 ounces canned
GARBANZO BEANS,
rinsed and drained
4 cups low-sodium

46 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

Garden
minestrone

VEGETABLE BROTH
1 large CARROT, chopped
3 CELERY RIBS, chopped
SWEET ONION,
chopped
3 GARLIC CLOVES,
crushed
2 cups BABY KALE,
loosely packed
SALT and BLACK PEPPER
to taste
1 handful fresh shredded
BASIL (optional)
Directions:
(1) Combine all ingredients
except the kale, salt, and
pepper in a large soup pot
and bring to a boil. Reduce
heat and simmer, covered,
for 40 minutes. (2) Add
kale and cook for ten more
minutes. Season with salt,
pepper, and basil.
Nutrition per serving:
282 calories, 5 grams fat,
55 grams carbohydrates,
17 grams dietary ber,
16 grams protein
ONE-POT CHICKEN,
QUINOA, AND VEGGIES
Compared with multi-item
feasts, one-pot meals like
this one are less likely to
result in overeating, which
is helpful at dinnertime,

when an athletes energy


needs are lower.
Servings: 4
Cooking time: 25 minutes

Ingredients:
1 cup QUINOA, rinsed
2 teaspoons organic
CHICKEN BOUILLON
2 GARLIC CLOVES,
crushed
2 cups cooked
CHICKEN BREAST,
chopped
2 ZUCCHINIS, chopped
cup SUN-DRIED
TOMATOES, chopped
teaspoon dried BASIL
Directions:
(1) Add quinoa, bouillon,
and garlic to 2.5 cups of
water and bring to a boil.
Cover, reduce heat to low,
and set timer for 20 minutes. (2) After ten minutes,
stir in chicken, zucchini,
tomatoes, and basil and
cover again. (3) With two
minutes left, remove lid and
stir. Leave uncovered and let
remaining water evaporate.
Nutrition per serving:
351 calories, 7 grams fat,
39 grams carbohydrates,
5 grams dietary ber,
35 grams protein

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Match Your Carb Intake


to Your Activity Level
Unlike protein and fat, carbohydrates are used by the body
almost exclusively to supply
energy for activity. The more
active you are, the more carbs
your diet should include. If you
do just a few short workouts
per week, aim for 1.8 grams
per pound of body weight per
day, or about 325 grams for a
180-pound man. (A cup of oatmeal is 28 grams.) If you train
like an elite athlete, you may
need as much as 4.5 grams per
pound. If youre racing, aim for
4.5 grams starting a day or two
before an event lasting longer
than 90 minutes, which will help
boost your glycogen stores
sugar stored in your muscles and
liver that serves as your bodys
primary fuel source.
Consider the Clock
The nutritional needs of athletes
vary over the course of a day. In
the morning your body requires
more carbs, to replenish liverglycogen stores depleted as the
body fuels itself during sleep,
and to provide high-octane fuel
for the days workouts. In the
evening the body switches into
repair mode, so dinner should be
higher in protein, the raw material
for recovery. Eat a mealor at
least a snackcontaining both
carbs and protein within an hour
of completing your workout.
Research shows that doing so
will help you not only perform
better in the next workout, but
also build more muscle, shed
more fat, and improve your
aerobic tness faster.

PETER BAGI (3)

Chicken
quinoa

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YOU DONT NEED
A GYM MEMBERSHIP
Gyms are great for building strength and avoiding injury, but you dont have to throw
down $100 a month for that. Instead, do a series of body-weight-resistance exercises
that target nearly every muscle, like the following four moves from certied strength
and conditioning specialist Paul Hiniker. This workout is formatted so youll have
stability in every plane of movement, making it benecial no matter what your sport,

says Hiniker, cofounder of SurfFit.tv, a surng-inspired video exercise program.


Hinikers circuit is a full-body blaster and highly time efcient. You can get two
hours of workout benets in 20 minutes, he says. No contract required.

THE 20-MINUTE BODY-WEIGHT


STRENGTH WORKOUT
Complete the circuit below three times,
doing six reps per side. This should take
about 20 minutes at a comfortable pace.
Your goal is to work up to ten circuits in one
20-minute session, three times per week.

EXERCISE #1

EXERCISE #2

External Hip
Rotation with
Side Plank
Start in push-up
position. Bring your
right knee to your
right elbow. Return
to push-up position.
Lift your right hand
straight up into the
air. Return to pushup position. Repeat
on left side.

The Windmill
Lie on your back
with your arms
straight out at your
sides, palms up. Lift
both legs until they
form a 90-degree
angle with your
torso. Turn your
head slightly to the
left and drop your
legs to your right,
stopping when your
ankles are about
12 inches off the
ground. Return to
starting position.
Repeat on left side.

EXERCISE #3

Reverse Lunge to Crossover Kick


Step back into a lunge with your left leg.
Move back to starting position, then kick
your left leg up to touch your right hand,
exhaling as you do. Repeat with right leg.
OUTSIDE ENDORSED

TRIATHLONS

EXERCISE #4

Side Plank with Hip Flexion


and Adduction
Start by elevating your body to a
modied side-plank position, with
your weight on your left elbow and
knee, your torso parallel to the
ground, and your right leg straight
out. Bring your right knee toward
your chest to form a 90-degree
angle with your torso. Return to
side plank. Lift your right leg toward
the sky, making sure your ears,
shoulders, hips, and ankles remain
in a straight line. Return to starting
position. Repeat on left side.

Illustrations by KATE FRANCIS

Escape from Alcatraz: San Francisco,


June. Begin on a ferry next to the famous
prison and end in Golden Gate Park.
escapefromalcatraztriathlon.com
Mountain Man Triathlon: Flagstaff,
Arizona; July. A beginner-friendly sprint
thats worth it for the forest scenery
alone. mountainmanevents.com
Survival of the Shawangunks: New
Paltz, New York; September. The 50-mile
course is nicknamed the SOS for a reason. Come prepared. sostriathlon.com

OO

WorldMags.net

To see Hiniker perform each exercise, plus


an additional strength-training move, go to
outsideonline.com/racereportvideo.

OUTSIDEONLINE.COM

47

WorldMags.net
Food

The Probar Meal ($3; theprobar


.com) is as tasty as it gets and,
yes, will serve as a substitute
meal, with 350 calories.

YO
YOU DONT
N
NEED A
B
BUNCH OF
F
FANCY GEAR

Shirt

Patagonias Forerunner ($39;


patagonia.com) has built-in
30 UPF sun protection and
is extremely durable.

THE BASICS EVERY YEAR-ROUND


RACER SHOULD HAVE
Shoes

The North Face Ultra Kilowatt


trail runners ($120; thenorth
face.com) can handle everything from blacktop to scree.

Shorts

The Salomon
Start ($40;
salomon.com)
is perfectly simple, with mesh
panels on the
side for breathability and a rear
pocket for gels.

Water

Any old bottle will


do, but Ultimate
Directions Fastdraw Plus ($23;
ultimatedirection
.com) has a hand
strap that keeps it
from slipping and
a pocket for keys.

MAKE THE MOST OF


WHAT YOUVE GOT

Easy gear upgrades to get


you race-ready without
mortgaging the house

OUTSIDE ENDORSED

MOUNTAIN-BIKE EPICS

Whiskey Off-Road: Prescott, Arizona;


April. A $40,000 purse and nearly 50
miles of backcountry riding. epicrides.com
British Columbia Bike Race: Victoria;
June. Seven days of pristine B.C. singletrack. bcbikerace.com
The Whole Enchilada: Moab, Utah;
August. Plunge 7,500 feet from the high
alpine of the La Sals down to the Colorado River. bigmountainenduro.com

48 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

MOUNTAIN-BIKE RACING
Quick Fix: Adding tubeless tires like Continentals Race King ($65; conti-online.com) is one
of the best ways to drop weight, and you dont
have to worry about pinch ats.
Easy Upgrade: The Fox DOSS dropper seatpost ($339; ridefox.com) lets you position the
seat up high for efcient pedaling on climbs,
then drop it lower for technical downhills.
TRAIL RUNNING
Quick Fix: Go with your lightest shoes on
race day. Every ounce shaved from shoe
weight saves roughly 0.8 second per mile.
Easy Upgrade: A spendy backpack for calories and water is overkill. The Fastdraw Plus
from Ultimate Direction (see You Dont Need
a Bunch of Fancy Gear, above) has an adjustable handle and a gel-compatible pocket.
OBSTACLE RACING
Quick Fix: Get yourself a pair of MadGrip
gloves (from $10; madgriptech.com). Theyll
keep you from slipping on greased-up ropes,

bars, and walls. Cut off the ngertips so water


can drain out.
Easy Upgrade: Because theyre made of ripstop polyester, Patagonias Stretch Planing
boardshorts ($79; patagonia.com) wont easily
catch on barbed wire or rocks.
TRIATHLON
Quick Fix: Get a bike tting and the specialist will likely move your seat forward and lower
your handlebars for a more aero position.
You can do that yourself.
Easy Upgrade: Clip on Prole Designs
Century aero bars ($99; prole-design.com)
for even better aerodynamics.
CYCLOCROSS RACING
Quick Fix: A cross bike isnt a necessity. Put
fatter tires on your road bike or skinnier ones
on your mountain bike.
Easy Upgrade: Because youll be running over
obstacles, get shoes that are as comfortable on
the ground as they are on your pedals, like Pearl
Izumis X-Project 3.0 ($160; pearlizumi.com).

WorldMags.net

Photograph by INGA HENDRICKSON

WorldMags.net

YOU DONT HAVE TO DO THE


SAME SLOG EVERY YEAR

THERES A BOOM IN OFFBEAT RACESGRAVEL GRINDERS, OBSTACLE-COURSE


RUNS, CYCLOCROSS EVENTSSO ITS NEVER BEEN EASIER TO EXPERIMENT
WITH A NEW SPORT. HERES HOW TO DECIDE WHICH ONES RIGHT FOR YOU.

START HERE

Do you like water?

SUP RACING
Eh, not since a
oatie mishap in
the fourth grade.

My mom
invented the
water birth!

Of course.

No
What about bikes?

Do you enjoy
getting muddy?

What: Paddling around in some of the


worlds most scenic locales, like North
Carolinas Outer Banks.
Why: Its a day on the water that gets you
a workout and a tan. And you dont even
need your own board. Rentals are ubiquitous, and many races offer them on-site.
The Best: Ta-Hoe Nalu (Kings Beach, California; August; tahoenalu.com); Carolina
Cup (April; Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina; wrightsvillebeachpaddleclub.com)

CYCLOCROSS RACING
Yes
Love them.

Not since a seatpost mishap in


sixth grade.

Do you have
ADHD?

No

What: An hour spent circling a one-totwo-mile off-road loop, with frequent


dismounts to hop over logs and hay bales.
Why: Its Nascar run on a muddy, grassy
track, with pit stops to swap out broken or
gumbo-caked bikes. Spectators drink, ring
cowbells, and heckle participants.
The Best: Cross Vegas (Las Vegas, Nevada;
September; crossvegas.com); Providence
Cyclocross Festival (Providence, Rhode
Island; October; providencecrossfest
.com); Cross Crusade Series (nationwide;
crosscrusade.com)

OUTDOOR GAMES

FROM TOP: ROBERT ZALECKI; MICHAEL DARTER; RICK LOHRE; JEFF J. MITCHELL/GETTY; ERIC BENJAMIN

Better stick with


road running then.

As long as my
bike is kicking it
up on whoever's
behind me.

Wait, what?

My colleagues.

What: A celebration of outdoor sports


held at mountain-town festivals.
Why: There are countless events with
varying degrees of difculty, from dogfriendly mud runs to multi-discipline
all-mountain challenges.
The Best: GoPro Mountain Games (Vail,
Colorado; June; mountaingames.com);
Dominion Riverrock Festival (Richmond,
Virginia; May; dominionriverrock.com)

OBSTACLE RACING
Working-man
pros.

My fraternity
brothers.

Who do you like to compete against?

What: Mud pits, re jumps, barbed-wire


crawlslike gym class on steroids.
Why: Theyre as much a party as a race.
The keepsakes for completing themthe
orange Tough Mudder headband, Warrior
Dashs fuzzy Viking helmetscome with
bragging rights.
The Best: Tough Mudder (toughmudder
.com); Spartan Race (spartanrace.com);
Warrior Dash (warriordash.com)

GRAVEL GRINDER
How well do you respond
to your-mama jokes?

They motivate me.

What did you say


about my mom?

WorldMags.net

What: A race on gravel or re roads,


originally birthed by Midwest bikers.
Why: Miles of backwoods trails on your
road bike, with no cars or strip malls
in sight and none of the scary downhills
prevalent at mountain-bike events.
The Best: Crusher in the Tushar
(Beaver, Utah; July; tusharcrusher.com);
Dirty Kanza (Emporia, Kansas; May;
dirtykanza200.com)

OUTSIDEONLINE.COM

49

WorldMags.net
YOU DONT
HAVE TO
PAY HEFTY
RACE FEES

THERE ARE PLENTY OF CHEAP AND


FREE UNDERGROUND EVENTS. THE
EASIEST WAY TO FIND THEM? START
MAKING FRIENDS.
Become a regular. Go to your local bike
shop and pick the staffs brains about
races, events, and gatherings. (Bringing
a six-pack along from time to time never
hurts.) And dont forget to check the
shops bulletin board. There youll nd all
manner of grassroots races and, more
important, in-the-know riding partners.
Join the club. Most local riding groups
are open to everyone, and while the
clubs often participate in ofcial paid
events, some members like to compete in underground ones as well.
American Trail Running Association

(trailrunner.com) and USA Cycling


(usacycling.org) are great resources for
teams and clubs nationwide.
Get your hands dirty. The people
taking care of trails are knowledgeable
about the local race scene, too. The
American Hiking Society (americanhiking
.com) focuses on the preservation and
creation of hiking and running trails.
Cyclists: check out the International
Mountain Bicycling Association (imba
.com), which keeps a list of trail-building
events on its site, and advocacy group
the League of American Bicyclists (bike
league.org), which has member clubs
across the country.
Sniff around online. Mtbr.com, dedicated to all things mountain bike, posts
detailed regional listings of trails, while
Bikepacking.net keeps track of endurance
routes around the U.S. At iRunFar.com,
youll nd information about local running
clubs. To nd truly underground events,
join these sites forums. No matter how
secret organizers try to be, eventually
someone will let it slip in a chat room.

OUTSIDE ENDORSED

UNSANCTIONED RACES

Wolfpack Hustle Marathon Crash


Race: Los Angeles; March. A 26-mile
ride through downtown. At four in the
morning. wolfpackhustle.com
Arizona Trail Race: Parker Canyon
Lake, Arizona; April. A 750-mile bike
traverse from Mexico to Utah with no
entry fee or support. topofusion.com
Durango Dirty Century: Durango,
Colorado; June. Eighty-plus miles
of singletrack and mountain riding,
with Carver Brewing beers at the nish.
coloradoes.wordpress.com

Start small. Sure, the hush-hush races


are the coolest, but there are plenty of
gateway events. The Southwest Endurance Series (swes.wordpress.com) is a
loose-knit association of locally run, lowkey bike races across the western U.S.
The movement is spreading, including a
newly formed Virginia Endurance Series
(virginiaenduranceseries.com). Ride
a couple of them, hang around for the
parties afterward, and youll be on your
way to the lesser-known invitationals.

MIKEY WALLY

Los Angeless
Wolfpack
Hustle

50 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

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LONG LIVE THE

ULTRA LIFE

EXPLORE MORE at facebook.com/MichelobULTRA

2013 Anheuser-Busch, Michelob Ultra Light Beer, St. Louis, MO 95 calories, 2.6g carbs, 0.6g protein and 0.0g fat, per 12 oz.

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Colorados
Hardrock 100

YOU DONT HAVE TO


DO
THINK SMALL

THE RISE OF THE


LONG-DISTANCE
RUNNER
MARATHON
FINISHERS:

NOT LONG AGO, 50- AND 100-MILE FOOTRACES SEEMED BEYOND THE
REACH OF HUMAN ENDURANCE. NOW THEYRE DE RIGUEUR FOR AMATEUR
ATHLETES LOOKING TO TEST THEMSELVES.

19802013

19802013

600K
500K
400K
300K

MARATHON
FINISHERS
ULTRARUNNING
FINISHERS

200K
100K

2013

2010

2005

2000

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1990

52 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

240% 2,307%
Increase
Increase

1980

OUTSIDE ENDORSED

ULTRARUNNING EVENTS

Bighorn 50/100: Sheridan, Wyoming;


June. Cowboys pack in several of the
aid stations. bighorntrailrun.com
Vermont 100 Endurance Race: West
Windsor, Vermont; July. A hundred-mile
loop in the Green Mountains with 14,000
feet of elevation change. vermont100.com
The Rut 50K: Big Sky, Montana;
September. Burly terrain for 31 miles.
runtherut.com

DAVID CLIFFORD

Participation in ultra-distance running events, once only for masochists whod get their
toenails removed to avoid having them fall out midrace, has increased by 20 percent every
year for the past ve years. Registration in the North Face Endurance Challenges beginnerfriendly New York and California races has doubled in the past year alone. And this year, 750
ultra races will be staged in the U.S., compared with only a couple hundred a decade ago.
It will always be seen as fringe and extreme, says Bryon Powell, founder of the ultrarun
ning website iRunFar.com. But theres been a huge normalization. That normalization

started with Chris McDougalls 2009 bestseller Born to Run. The book asserted that running
long distances is something we as a species were designed to do. Around the same time, blogs,
social media, and a wealth of online resources emerged offering tools and advice. It was really
just a matter of timing, says McDougall. People started to gure out that they actually liked

running. It didnt have to be a chore.

Whats the appeal? Part of it is the sense of achievement you feel after pushing past the
limit of what you thought was possible. And part of it is simple adventure, the enjoyment
that comes from exploring new singletrack out your back door. Ive always been inspired
by the places that training and racing have taken me, says pro Mike Foote, who started long
distance running in 2009 and has twice been the top American nisher in the Ultra-Trail du
Mont Blanc, a run through France, Italy, and Switzerland.
A handful of companies now sell gear specically catering to ultrarunners, and theyve
experienced a massive surge in sales. One, Ultimate Direction, sold through six production
runs of its rst hydration pack after it hit shelves in December 2012.
Of course, there will always be plenty of old-school races where its just you, the trail,
and a guy at the nish line with a stopwatch. That may be exactly whats drawing people to
ultrarunning. Weve gotten over our fear of distance, says McDougall. The thing about

going 30 or 50 miles is that you forget about the nish line. And thats a great thing.

ULTRARUNNING
FINISHERS:

WorldMags.net

Obstacle course racing combines the endurance


challenges of a marathon with the mind-bending
rigors of overcoming obstacles along the way,
and is taking the world by storm. At the center of
this phenomenon is Joe De Sena, the founder of
Spartan Race.
In Spartan Up! De Sena gives you a life strategy
that will move you from your comfort zone to a
combat zone. As he breaks down race obstacles
detailing how each parallels real life experiences,
you will learn how to:
Conquer your will
Embrace discipline
Eliminate limitations
Achieve obstacle immunity

Pre-order your copy at:

spartan.com/spartan-up-book
Your purchase amount will go toward
any future Spartan Race Registration.
[Discount coupon included in book]

spartan.com/spartan-up-book

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The Color
Run series

YOU DONT NEED


A NUMBER TO RACE

A GROWING LIST OF APPS AND TRACKING UNITS ALLOW YOU


TO CHALLENGE RIDING BUDDIES AND STRANGERS ALIKE

STRAVA

QUICK START

BEST FOR

PRICE

Friendly competition can be the


best motivation. Thats the
concept behind
Strava, a mobile
app that creates
segments from
users cycling and
running routes,
then ranks times
on a leaderboard.

Each segment
has a route map,
elevation info,
and a fastest
user. Badges
are awarded for
personal bests;
create your own
segments by
recording a run
or ride on the
app via GPS and
sharing it.

Strava is great
for challenging
yourself against
others, but its
also a good way
to nd new rides
or runs. A robust
platform keeps
track of leaders
and lets you message others (and
give props) from
within the app.

Free. Upgrade to
Premium ($6 per
month or $59
per year) and get
detailed analytics
like Suffer Score,
the amount of
effort expended
based on ride
distance, speed,
and heart rate.
Android and iOS;
strava.com

ENDOMONDO

Keeps track of
distance, time,
and other metrics
for activities like
runs, rides, swims,
even windsurng.
There are similar
appsRuntastic,
Runkeeper, and
MapMyFitness, to
name threebut
Endomondo gives
you the most
features for free.

Offers detailed,
customizable
audio feedback on
pace, heart rate,
and other stats
during a run or
ride, and you can
have it updated
as often as you
like. Allows you to
compete against
others on usersubmitted routes
or race yourself.

The most useful


features are the
real-time cues
that help you beat
your best. Pep
Talk lets friends
and family send
encouraging messages during a
run. When you're
slogging through
your rst marathon, its the perfect motivation.

Free. The Pro


version ($5 per
month) offers
interval-training
programs and
deeper customization to help
you top your
personal best
on a given route.
Android, iOS,
and others; endo
mondo.com

MY ASICS

My Asics is all
about race
prep. A series of
algorithms offer
customized plans
that evolve as
you progress (or
hit a wall).

Plug in the races


distance and do
a baseline run; the
app will estimate
your ready date
and work backward to create
a custom plan.
As you train, the
app determines
your progress and
adjusts workouts
accordingly.

This app is pretty


bare-bones
theres a compass instead of
a mapbut the
special sauce is
in the algorithms.
Asics claims
that 78 percent
of runners who
follow its plans
achieve their goal.

Free. But we recommend using it


in tandem with
an app like Endomondo for route
tracking in real
time. Android and
iOS; myasics.us

A training app
disguised as an
audio-based
game that lets
you, yes, outrun
zombies on
more than 100
missions. The
conceit is a little
hokey, but focus
on the game and
youll pay less
attention to your
burning lungs.

Choose a halfhour or one-hour


run, and the
game prompts
you to run faster
to grab supplies
or slower to rescue people. Every
once in a while a
pack of zombies
will give chase:
go hard to ditch
them. The app
saves your stats.

Basically gameied interval


training, and we
recommend using
it that waywith
headphones,
lest others hear
cues like Theyre
right on your tail,
dont look back!
Enjoy your own
soundtrack between attacks.

Four bucks
and worth every
penny. Also available is Zombie,
Run! 5K Training
($2), an eightweek program
for beginners.
Android and
iOS; zombies
rungame.com

ZOMBIES,
RUN!

54 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

YOU DONT
HAVE TO
TAKE IT (OR
YOURSELF)
SERIOUSLY
ITS IMPOSSIBLE TO NOT HAVE
FUN RACING IN A FAT ELVIS SUIT, NO
MATTER HOW PAINFUL THE LAST
MILE IS. NEW HAMPSHIRE COSTUME
COMPETITOR RYAN PALMISON,
WHO HOLDS THE GUINNESS WORLD
RECORD FOR FASTEST MARATHON
DRESSED AS A DAIRY PRODUCT
(3:10:36 AS AN ICE CREAM SUNDAE),
OFFERS HIS ADVICE ON CRUSHING
IT FRUIT OF THE LOOM STYLE.
Modify. Anything straight out of the box
is going to have hot spots. Cutting the
neck hole bigger or lopping off the arms
will do wonders to prevent chang.
Make your own. Most store-bought
costumes are polyesternot exactly
breathable. Youll stay cooler by fashioning your own from loose cotton. (If you
do go the store-bought route, avoid races
in summer, when temperatures swell.)
Test it. Run in your costume at least
once before race day. It will help you
identify and address problem areas.
Check local rules. After the Boston
bombing, some events, like the Chicago
Marathon, are banning costumes.
Set a record. Guinness has more than
three dozen categories for costumed
running. Tip: Pick a runner-friendly one.
Fastest marathon dressed as a piece of
fruit leaves room for creativity. Fastest
marathon wearing a gas mask does not.

WorldMags.net

SOL NEELMAN

THE BASICS

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Gran Fondo
New York

YOU DONT HAVE TO


TIME YOURSELF

JOHN TROTTER (2)

PLENTY OF RACES FORGO THE CLOCK, BUT FEW ARE MORE FUN THAN
A GRAN FONDOA EUROPEAN CYCLING TRADITION THATS BLOWING
UP STATESIDE BY JAMES JUNG
I was halfway up Italys Passo dello Stelvio, a
48-switchback beast in the Alps thats widely
regarded as one of cyclings most mythic and
punishing climbs, when the altitude kicked
in. We were approaching 9,000 feet, after all.
But rather than hurl my oatmeal breakfast, I
settled into a manageable rhythm as the lead
group of sinewy-legged climbers pedaled
away from me.
Seasoned bike racers refer to this moment
as getting dropped. But I hadnt clipped in
to win. The annual Dreilander Giro is a 104mile, fully supported ride known as a gran
fondo, and its main purpose is to challenge
riders with dramatic terrainvertiginous
climbs, historic cobblestoneswhile also
providing cushy comforts like aid stations,
bathrooms, and a SAG wagon. Fondos are
not like century rides: these are serious riders
with high-end rigs. Still, they feel rewarding
no matter where you place in the pack.
After losing contact with the leaders, I
drifted back to another group and soaked up
the views. Four hours and 70 miles later at the
nish, I toasted my efforts alongside thousands of other newfound cycling brothers-

in-arms with a few too many steins of Stiegl.


Since the mid-1990s, fondos have been all
the rage in Europe. Towns shut down, feed
stations crop up along the course, and TV
networks occasionally descend, as upwards
of 10,000 amateur cyclists and a few notable
pros compete over terrain made famous in
races like the Tour de France and the Giro
dItalia. A select few riders target top-ten
placings, but the vast majority go for the experience. Among cyclists, its the equivalent
of playing softball at Wrigley Field, and more
of them are being staged in the States.
A gran fondo is like a marathon on bikes,

says Ulrich Fluhme, a former corporate lawyer who ditched his career to start the Gran
Fondo New York with his wife in 2011. At the
front people compete for the win, in the middle they want the P.R., and at the end theyre
simply having fun and trying to nish before
the cutoff time. Today, the GFNY is one of

Americas largest, attracting an international


peloton of 5,000 cyclists who ride a 100-mile
out-and-back course in the Hudson Valley.
There are no choices in a typical bike race.
You have to go as hard as you can, explains

Greg Fisher, marketing director at Bike Monkey, which organizes the annual Levis GranFondo with former pro Levi Leipheimer in
Santa Rosa, California. A gran fondo lets
riders modulate their experience based on
their goals. You can still treat it as a race, but
how hard you go is up to you.

That freedom to get what you want out of


italong with the gorgeous roads and ubiquitous wineries of Sonoma Countyhas
made Levis Gran Fondo the most popular in
the U.S., attracting 7,500 competitors.
Theres also a growing list of smaller, more
curated fondos, like celebrity chef Michael
Chiarellos Bottega Gran Fondo. Limited to
300 riders, the inaugural Napa Valley event
in April will put competitors on teams captained by retired pros like George Hincapie
and David Zabriskie, while chef-sponsored
rest stops will guarantee that the calories are
as epic as the riding. Chiarello, an obsessive
cyclist who has competed in some of Europes
biggest gran fondos, sees it as the next step
in the scenes evolution. We wanted something intimate, experiential, and not so large
that it was stressful, says Chiarello. Like
the best gran fondos, we wanted to make it
fun, and we have.

CONTRIBUTORS: ERIN BERESINI, MEAGHEN


BROWN, WHITNEY DREIER, AARON GULLEY,
RYAN KROGH, BRENT ROSE, MATT SKENAZY

WorldMags.net

OUTSIDE ENDORSED

ROAD RACES AND


GRAN FONDOS

Gran Fondo New York: New York City;


May. Five-thousand cyclists on closed roads
in the Hudson Valley. granfondony.com
Ltape du Tour: French Alps; July. Classic
Tour de France climbs like Mont Ventoux
and Col du Galibier. letapedutour.com
Levis GranFondo: Santa Rosa, California; October. Beer, music, and plenty of
support. levisgranfondo.com

OUTSIDEONLINE.COM

55

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a
56 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

boy
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PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Jos Mandojana

&

Camera-equipped
ying robots have
quickly become
a staple of the
adventure world,
lming rst ascents
and nailing poachers. But thats just
the beginning. As
ERIC HANSEN
found out during a
cross-country test
drive, affordable
consumer drones
will revolutionize
how we experience
the outdoors.

his drone
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OUTSIDEONLINE.COM

57

WorldMags.net
Leaf peepers. European tourists. Motorheads from a nearby
car show. On a Friday in September, maybe 100 visitors milled
around Clingmans Dome, a popular lookout atop a high
ridge in Tennessees Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
Some made the push to the ovoid, Jetsonsesque observation deck. The rest, exhausted
by the half-mile approach from the parking
lot, wiped their brows while standing on the
agstone patio below.
Think its OK if I y this thing? I asked a
woman sitting nearby.
This thing was my drone. The size of a
shoebox, with four outstretched arms and
an HD video camera on its belly, the device is
part of a new wave of even-dummies-cany-em aerial robots, for sale to anyone with
a couple hundred bucks in their pocket.
I wasnt sure what to make of it, honestly,
but that wasnt the point. I was doing my rst
ight in front of other people, and the point
was to see what they thought.
Youre not gonna y it around for hours,
are you? the woman replied. I assured her
that the ight would be short, 15 minutes tops.
She seemed cool with that. Two park rangers,
enthusiastic young guys in khaki shirts, had
already told me to Go for it! while a third,
an older woman in pressed green slacks, said,
You didnt hear that from me.

That was all the encouragement I needed. I


red up the drone, which made an eager digital
chirp, then four propellers the size of dinner
knives spun to life and it obediently lifted off,
climbing some 75 feet overhead. In the wispy
fog blowing hard over the domes 6,643-foot
summit, the drone lurched forward and backward and side to side with all the predictability
of a drunk. People on the ground stared. The
folks in the lookout didnt even notice.
So I brought my drone closer inright
behind the young families, old men, couples,
and kids in strollers gazing at the mountains
in the other direction. Finally, when they
heard what sounded like a hive of angry bees,
their heads swiveled.
No one appeared startled. No one cheered
or threw rocks. Instead, they turned their
bodiesaway from Dolly Partons homeland,
away from the view that one woman later told
me proved the existence of Godand, almost
in unison, like primitives offering their humble devices to the higher technological power
made plain before them, they raised their
cameras, tablets, and phones. Once they nished photographing the drone, which was
photographing them, they clapped.
Why, I cant say. The drone hadnt own

58 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

any loop-the-loops or thrown off glitter dust.


But one thing was certain: these people were
not afraid of a little old helicopter thingy.
NO DOUBT ABOUT IT, 2013 will go down as

the year of the dronethe nonmilitary, forsale-online, consumer drone. Former New
York City mayor Michael Bloomberg discussed them during his weekly radio-show
appearance. Chris Anderson, the former editor of Wired and cofounder of drone maker
3D Robotics, wrote multiple stories with
titles like How I Accidentally Kickstarted
the Domestic Drone Boom. New York Uni
versity hosted its rst drone conference. A
computer-science undergrad in California
launched a crowdfunding campaign, hoping
to raise $10,000 to develop consumer drone
kits that could be produced using 3-D printers; backers pledged $563,721.
In the outdoor world, camera-equipped
ying robots were used to monitor the ow
of sea ice in the Arctic, map an archaeological
site in Peru, and chart forest res in France
and reefs in Samoa. A drone kept tabs on
Kenyas endangered white rhino populations.
Another mapped the Matterhorn down to
20-centimeter resolution. A pair of Louisiana hunters dubbed their drone the dehogaier and used it to track wild pigs. A drone

for deliveries someday, a Dominos Pizza in


London had already served up two large pies
via drone, a bakery in Shanghai had couriered
cakes using them, and Hobby King, a large
online seller of all things remote controlled
(RC), had kicked off its second annual competition to see who could lift the most beer
into the air with a drone.
In the space of roughly three years, consumer drones have also become ubiquitous in
photo and movie shoots. Virtually every state
is home to at least one drone lm company,
including Idahos RC Aerial Cam (customers:
Discovery Channel, Red Bull, Salomon) and
Tennessees Snaproll, which ies drones of
all shapes and sizes for clients ranging from
General Electric to Taylor Swift. Photographer Corey Rich has used drones on some
30 adventure shoots. In a recent lm for gear
manufacturer Mammut, he deployed one to
follow climbers David Lama and Peter Ortner to the 20,508-foot summit of Pakistans
Trango Tower. They are game-changing
devices, Rich says. They get our cameras in

wild, unexpected positions, positions that


are otherwise totally unachievable.

DESPITE ALL THIS, drones remain a relatively uncommon sight at trailheads and atop
mountains. But that could change fast. DJI,

By last December, when 60 Minutes aired a piece about Amazons plan to use drones for deliveries someday, a Dominos Pizza
in London had already served up two large pies via drone, a bakery in Shanghai had couriered cakes using them, and Hobby
King had kicked off its second annual competition to see who
could lift the most beer into the air with a drone.
company helped map damage after last falls
oods in Colorado. Burning Man published a
set of drone guidelines. (No buzzing the Great
Circle until after the burn.) And hundreds of
videos, distinguished by tags like FPV (rstperson view), UAV (unmanned aerial vehicle),
and quadcopter (four-rotor helicopter), were
uploaded to YouTube, with drone-enabled
footage from Grand Canyon, Glacier, and
many other U.S. national parks.
By last December, when 60 Minutes aired
a piece about Amazons plan to use drones

the maker of my drone and a leader in the


affordable, ready-to-y market, rolled out
the $500 Phantom in January 2013. The Chinese company declined to share numbers, but
a dealer estimates that DJI will sell 100,000
drones this year. Parrot, a company that sells
drones in Apple stores, has delivered more
than half a million units since 2010. These
gures are on top of the DIY kits and readyto-y drones sold by the thousands at online
stores like Aerial Technology International,
Quadrocopter, and Intelligent UAS.

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The thought of all these little buggers


flying around our favorite outdoor places
is perturbing, as is the potential for harassmentof both humans and wildlifeand
privacy violations. (Imagine how youd feel if
a drone whizzed by your head as you savored
a successful climb of Mount Rainier.) But
their appeal is just as apparent. When I rst
saw a popular YouTube video of surng footage shot via drone at Santa Cruzs Steamer
Lane, I swooned. It was so cool to have no
idea where the camera would go nextright
beside a rock with sea lions one moment,
high above crashing waves the next.
The ability to capture cinematic footage
is just part of the allure. A company called
Hubsan makes a $200 palm-size drone that
streams live footage to a screen on the controllerallowing, say, a backcountry skier to
safely inspect a cornice before dropping in.
3D Robotics and others integrate an autotracking follow me function into their
drones, enabling skiers and bikers, for example, to take the ultimate sele.
The Federal Aviation Administration is

struggling to keep up with these innovations.


Last December, after Congress asked the
agency to devise a plan for the safe integration of drones into national airspace, the FAA
nally designated six sites for testing civilian
versions of military drones. In the meantime,
the only regulations that apply to recreational
drone users are the ones that were implemented in 1981 for model airplanes, which
forbid three major things: ying in crowded
areas, ying above 400 feet, and ying near
airports. As for wilder areas, the Forest Service
and National Park Service neither encourage
nor prohibit the launch of any object, though
technically pilots are required to ask for permission before sending anything into the sky.
The business of unmanned aerial vehicles is
real new to us, says Jeffrey Olsen, a Park Ser
vice spokesman.
In other words, its pretty much a drone
free-for-all in Americas wildlands. Or, as a
TV producer who recently used an infraredcamera-equipped drone to look for Bigfoot
told me: Its about to get really freaky. There
are already cameras everywhere. And now

youve got these drones. People are gonna


get pissed off. Others are gonna say, Screw
you, I want to y.

My newfound interest in consumer drones


happened to coincide with a long-planned
cross-country road trip. So I ordered a Phantom and charted a route that would let me y
it in beautiful wilderness areas between New
York City, my home, and Seattle, where I was
going to meet up with my family.
I gured it would be fun to capture footage of my trip, see how people react to some
good-natured ybys, and explore whether a
laissez-faire attitude about drones in the outdoors is the best approach. So, during the rst
week of September, I placed my new toy in the
trunk of a rental car and set off.
I SPED SOUTH for hours, skipping the bar-

rier islands of Maryland to camp in the Cape


Hatteras National Seashore of the Outer
Bankslong, skinny sandbars in North Carolina that bracket the Eastern Seaboard.
Any fears I had about the skills required
to y a drone were quickly dispelled. While

All eyes on
the drone: the
author at Lincoln
Park in Seattle

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camped at Oregon Inlet, near the top of the


cape, I learned by watching a couple of threeminute tutorials on my tablet. The next day,
45 miles south at Frisco Woods campground,
I walked to an open area behind the dunes
where local park rangers had cheerfully suggested I conduct my inaugural ight.
Some consumer drones y autonomously,
following tracks that you draw and create in
an app; the Phantom is operated using a traditional radio controller. After installing the
drones battery, I completed the prelaunch
dance of the controller sticksleft, right,
apart, togetherand the propellers began
spinning. I nudged the left stick up and the
drone ascended. I pressed the right stick to
the right and it glided right. Then I thrust the
left stick up and it rocketed into the clouds.
Anytime I let go of the controls, the drone
hovered in place. Amazing!
I made graceful arcs over sea oats, slalomed through oaks, and raced low, at about
25 miles per hour, along the yellow center
stripe of a nearby tarmac, with the Top Gun
soundtrack blasting in my head. It was a
glorious 12 minutes. Then the battery ran
low, and the drone dutifully landed itself back
where it took off. Feeling the unique bond of
man and tool, boy and spaceship, I immediately got on the phone and ordered more
accessories.
A few days, two states, and a half-dozen
ights later, I mustered the courage to y my
drone in public at Clingmans Dome. But it
wasnt until later that night, when I stopped
for pizza in the tourist trap of Gatlinburg,
Tennessee, that I began to understand why
some of the Clingmans visitors may have
been less than stunned by my drone.
While walking down one of Gatlinburgs
main streets, I saw a storefront showcasing drones and RC helicopterssandwiched
between a fudge shop and Magnet-O-World.
Astonished to nd such techy toys amid the
tourist stuff, and in need of some specialty
batteries for my drone, I decided to pop in.
The stores proprietor, Kevin Lin, was a
friendly guy in his thirties, with spiky hair
and a pink polo shirt. He told me he moved
to Gatlinburg from his hometown of Shanghai three years ago because he liked the
weather. He noticed the rising popularity of
RC devices and consumer drones, and he had
friends back in China who worked in a factory
that made them.
His little shop, King Hobby (not to be confused with Hobby King), now sells 65 models
of RC helicopters and a handful of drones, and
it has spawned no fewer than four competitors in town. All the gun shops started carrying helicopters and drones, so now I have to
carry guns, he said with a smile.

I wasnt expecting this. There are almost

60 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

50 drone hobbyist groups in the U.S., but


they tend to be concentrated in cities. I hadnt
imagined that drones had made their way into
the boiled-peanuts belt. But here they were.
On Clingmans, I couldve been a local.
THE NEXT DAY, I traversed the grand shelf of

land that stretches from Knoxville to Nashville, Tennessee, descended to the Mississippi River, and pushed west to the OzarkSt.
Francis National Forest in northern Arkansas, where I hoped to get some footage to
wow my family and friends with.
I filmed hiking trails and creeks and
honey-hole lakes drenched in warm, humid
air, but my most Planet Earthworthy shots
came at Buffalo National River, where I glided
the Phantom along the smooth surface of the
impossibly clear water and swooped up the
face of a granite cliff at a gorgeous oxbow
bend. The video, downloaded to my laptop,
shows pebbles whisking across the screen,
then a at-gray wall, thenin a hallelujah
momenta wide-open, spinning vista of
untouched oak forest.
I kept trying to get a rise out of people, but
during two days in Arkansas, no one was intrigued or bothered by my ights. Granted,

became the center of a media circus last summer when Steel drafted a town-council initiative that proposed paying $100 to anyone
who could produce the complete wreckage of
a drone shot out of the sky. Never mind that
gunning down private property is illegal. The
drone ordinance will be voted on later this
year, but it has already garnered all sorts of
attention. Russian newspapers picked up the
story. The Colbert Report mocked the idea.
When I was in town, a crew from Univision,
the Spanish-language cable network, was
there, too, lming a segment.
As best I could gather during a one-day
visit, residents remain split over the initiative.
The only person I talked to who clearly favored picking off drones was a lanky cook at
a local diner. At breakfast I told the waitress
about my drone, and she yelled back to the
kitchen, Hey! Hes got a drone in his trunk!
The cook replied, I dont wanna see it! He
shouldnt be ying that around here!
Invited out to elaborate, he said quietly,
Id shoot it right outta the sky. I got guns.

Residents opposed to the initiative arent


so much against shooting drones, I learned,
as they are against almost anything Steel does.
Hes just crazy, said the owner of a gas sta

I made graceful arcs over sea oats, slalomed through oaks, and
raced low, at about 25 miles per hour, along the yellow center
stripe of a nearby tarmac, with the Top Gun soundtrack blasting
in my head. It was a glorious 12 minutes. Feeling the unique
bond of man and tool, boy and spaceship, I immediately got on
the phone and ordered more accessories.
there were few around to care. The only other
people I met in the backcountry, a couple with
three young children, said nothing about my
droning. The father wore an Army T-shirt,
carried one of the children in a camouage
backpack, and had a bowie knife hanging
from his belt and another strapped to his calf.
The mother looked at me with apparent boredom. The other two children, maybe four and
six years old, were too young for drone fascination. When I forced myself into their space
to show them the Phantom, Mom changed
the subject to a more relevant topic.
Theres a rattlesnake up there, she said,

pointing at the trail.


NOT EVERYONE is so blas about the pros-

pect of drones whirring around them. One


vocal doubter is Phil Steel, a welding inspector in Deer Trail, Colorado, a decrepit ranching town 60 miles east of Denver, which I
reached after a long, ponderous drive through
the gridlands of Missouri and Kansas.
Deer Trail is normally a quiet place, but it

tion in town before telling me about the 22foot lookout tower Steel built in his backyard.
When I nally met Steel at a fast-food restaurant, his greased-at hair and monotone
voice didnt do much to inspire condence.
Nor did his drone philosophy, which somehow sounded TED-like in a bad way. Drones
are where cyberspace meets real space and
time, he said.

But Steel could also be sincere, thoughtful, and funny. He planned to capitalize on
his minor celebrity by launching a line of
drone-hunter merchandiseclothing, ball
caps, a cookbook. His proposed ordinance
was mostly a stunt, but his worries about
the future pervasiveness of domestic drones
seemed legitimate enough.
If a pedophile was using a drone to take
pictures of kids today, someone would see it
and it could be stopped, he said. But when

theyre ubiquitous, how do you tell a good


drone from a bad drone?
Later, I had a phone conversation about
drone pitfalls with Woodrow Hartzog, a pri-

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HRUND ATLADTTIR (6)

On the road, clockwise from top left: gearing up; Utahs Valley of the Gods; Bonneville Salt Flats,
Utah; Arkansass Buffalo River; at rest in the Ozarks; looking down at Utahs San Juan River

vacy lawyer and afliate scholar at Stanford


Universitys Center for Internet and Society.
The time to ask questions about drones and
privacy, he said, is now.
Once a technology is adopted by the
masses, it becomes much harder to regulate,

Hartzog explained. As an example, he cited


online tracking software like site cookies,
which remains largely ungoverned. By the
time groups that wanted a sharper denition
of privacy got organized, the technology had
already spawned thriving industries with
powerful corporate support.
I got the sense that, despite the hoopla,
even the anti-droners in little Deer Trail
hadnt really begun to organize. But it was
time to nd out. At 1 P.M., on the street just
behind the town hall, I sent my awesome and
vexing little drone into the sky. From 150 feet
up, I peered into backyards, surveyed doublewide trailers, and lmed an auto repairmans

car-strewn property, which locals call the


Assholes Garage.
Nobody shot my drone out of the sky. A
white-haired couple in an Oldsmobile drove
underneath it unaware, as did a farmer on a
tractor. Steel, I knew, was off inspecting pipelines in another town. And I got the feeling
that anyone else who might have taken aim
was also out trying to earn a living.
I CROSSED THE Continental Divide and

headed into the smooth orange landscape of


southeastern Utah, arriving in Canyonlands
National Park 20 minutes before sunset.
The recent delivery of additional batteries
and propellers had created a technological
jumble in my car. Along with all the computer
screens and mobile devices, I now had more
stuff that needed charging, that bounced
around in cup holders and hid in the bottom
of bags and cases.

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I desperately wanted to launch my drone


off the 6,259-foot-tall mesa that overlooks the Needles District before dark, but
it took me several minutes to nd the damn
screws to attach my GoPro camera. And in
the prelaunch frenzy, I didnt pause to create the usual ight plan or scope out a landing area. Instead, while a lone German stared
peacefully at the western set piece, I made a
hasty launch. Then: streaks of light, frantic
motion, a high-frequency buzzing. With
the battery nearly empty, I tried to steer my
craft for an emergency landing in a gully, but
I failed. The drone banged into a rock and
hopped around in the dirt until its propellers,
scuffed but not broken, whacked themselves
into exhaustion.
Id known this day was coming. A plethora
of news stories and YouTube videos featuring
the word crash had hinted at it all along.
Over the course of my trip, a drone crashed
in a crowded street in Spain. Three days later,
in Germany, a drone nose-dived at the feet of
Chancellor Angela Merkel. Two weeks after
that, in Manhattan, an idiotic New Yorker in
ripped jeans launched a Phantom from the
balcony of a midtown apartment building.
Soon it pinged into the side of a skyscraper.
The drone miraculously righted itself, but the
pilot sent it beelining into another building.
And another. Eventually, the thing tumbled
some 30 stories, smashing on the sidewalk
near Grand Central at the start of rush hour,
steps away from a startled businessman.
The FAA is working to prevent such crashes,
of course. Meanwhile, individual states are
largely responsible for trying to gure out how
to weigh a persons right to privacy against a
persons right to use drones and cameras in
public places. As the handful of states with
drone-specic regulations have discovered,
this is not an easy balance to achieve.
Take Texas. In September 2013, state legislators outlawed drone photography of a private entity without consent. Some celebrated
the law, which prohibits, for example, private
detectives from using drones to snoop around
bedroom windows. But others decried the
way it handcuffs people seeking to do good for
the public, like the hobbyist drone pilot from
Dallas who captured footage of a meatpacking plant that had been dumping untreated
waste into a nearby river. If the law had been
in place when hed photographed the fouled
waterway in January 2012, he wouldnt have
been able to use the images to help indict the
plant owners on pollution charges.
QUESTIONS ABOUT drones in federal wil-

derness are even more complicated. Not only


are there safety, privacy, and First Amendment concerns, but there are questions about
how drones jibe with the authorized use of

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these lands, which includes preserving solitude for visitors and protecting wildlife from
unnecessary harassment.
Unfortunately, none of the federal agencies appear poised to answer these questions.
Once any kind of vehicle takes off from a
national park and goes into the air, thats
national airspace, says Park Service spokes
man Jeffrey Olsen. Adds spokesman Lawrence Chambers, The FAA has regulatory
authority over all airspace. The Forest Service doesnt have any additional regulations
regarding where they can or cant be own.

FAA spokesperson Alison Duquette


acknowledges the administrationss responsibility for drone safety but says that other
concernssuch as calls for drone-free tent
sitesfall outside the FAAs purview. Hobbyists have to stick to the hobbyist rules, like
staying under 400 feet, she says. I dont
know if the Department of the Interior has
any special regulations about parks.

This is troubling. If the history of wildland


airspace is any indication, drones in growing
numbers will continue to invade wilderness
areas while federal agencies are busy passing
the regulatory buck.
Thats largely what happened with passenger ights over national parks. The number of
noisy scenic helicopter tours, Air Force training ights, and private-craft yovers grew
rapidly during the seventies and eighties,
with the Park Service eventually concluding
that overights led to unacceptable noisepollution levels in a quarter of the parks.

The GoProequipped DJI


Phantom

62 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

Visitors complained. Arizona congressman


John McCain was astounded to see a plane
ying below him, thousands of feet under the
rim of the Grand Canyon, while hiking in the
early eighties. Then two sightseeing aircraft
collided over the Grand Canyon in 1986.
In 1987, McCain introduced and Congress
passed the National Park Overflights Act,
which mandated that the Department of the
Interior, which oversees the Park Service,
collaborate with the FAA to produce the
substantial restoration of natural quiet inside
parks. The act ordered the two agencies to
produce new regulations within a year, but the
rst ones didnt start arriving until 2002. As a
frustrated McCain, by then a senator, said in a
committee hearing that year, In 1987, I never
believed 15 years later we would be sitting here
still without this issue having been resolved.

Whether regulating drones requires an act


of Congress is uncertain. A special addition
to park bylaws, like the ban on Segways that
some parks decreed in the mid-2000s, could
be allowed on a case-by-case basis. Meanwhile, environmental groups arent pushing

to nd out. The strongest stance I could nd


came from the Wilderness Society, and its
pretty weak. Said the organizations Jeremy
Garncarz: We know this may be something
we have to address in the near future.

ON A TUESDAY in late September, I skittered

into Portland, Oregon, just in time for a dinner meet-up of two dozen consumer-drone
enthusiasts at the hip Ace Hotel. The crowd
included members of a drone consultancy,
the founders of a booming drone retailer, an
angel investor, and the president of a drone
trade association.
Before I could stab a fork into my mushroom farfalle, attendees were overwhelming me with all the now familiar ways that
drones are doing work that is dull, dirty, or
dangerous. They were an impressive, well
intentioned lot. Heck, one guy was headed to
Greenland the following day, where he would
use drones to count the dwindling polar bear
population. But they were squarely focused
on the amazing things they could do with
drones, not on what drones might do to us

My fellow diners were squarely focused on the amazing things they


could do with drones, not on what drones might do to uswhich
had increasingly become my concern. It doesnt take much of an
imaginative leap to picture a drone bouncing off Delicate Arch, or
a handful of drones swarming climbers on Yosemites El Capitan or
dive-bombing a herd of bison in Yellowstone.
which had increasingly become my concern.
During my three-week road trip, the price
of a Phantom dropped $200 and DJI debuted
a new model thats able to y twice as long.
Just eight months after the Phantoms
release, a fellow camper on North Carolinas
Outer Banks told me he saw one ying over
his tent, and the German at the Canyonlands overlook saw a Phantom ying around
Delicate Arch the morning before I met him.
It doesnt take much of an imaginative leap
to picture a drone bouncing off the arch, or
a handful of drones swarming climbers on
Yosemites El Capitan or dive-bombing a
herd of bison in Yellowstone.
The following day, I escaped to peaceful
Camp Westwind, a 529-acre conservation
area and wilderness-education center on
the Oregon coast. Id arranged to meet Jonathan Evans, the bright and friendly founder
of Portland-based drone-consultancy and
software-development outt RTI, who was
there to pitch Matt Taylor, the camps executive director, on how drones could help him
monitor the spread of invasive plants.
The three of us canoed across the birdflocked estuary of the Salmon River and

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Guys like this:


increasingly
common in parks
and wildlands

ascended a forest path to the main lodge,


where we met two pilots hired by RTI. Down
at the shoreline, they launched a drone with
a secondary camera that beamed an eye-inthe-sky view back to a pair of goggles worn
by one of the pilots. The pilots took pains
to avoid buzzing the grade-school campers
learning about trees and instead focused on
the border between beach and forest, where a
nonnative shrub had been spreading.
Taylor was skeptical but curious. Then he
donned the goggles, which allowed him to see
what the drone was seeing. Whoa! he said.
This could be an amazing tool.

RTIs plant survey is just a demonstration.


In addition to its other restrictions, the FAA
forbids companies like RTI from collecting
money for commercial drone services. That
will change sometime later this year, when
the FAA says that it will begin allowing pilots
of consumer drones (whom the administra-

tion refers to as hobbyists) to set up shop.


It could change even sooner. Following a
$30 million investment in Chris Andersons
3D Robotics last December, members of DIY
Drones, an online community Anderson
started, circulated a White House petition
to allow consumer operators to immediately
use their drones for prot. It didnt get the
signatures, but setbacks like that dont deter
guys like RTIs Evans. Were putting together
a business plan and making connections for
when the regulations open up, he told me.

A few days later, I returned the rental car in


Seattle, hugged my family, and continued to
y my drone, teaching my father how to move
it low and fast while my mother stood by saying that its creepy. Soon after, I called Tay
lor, who had become even more excited about
the prospect of drones at Camp Westwind.
If the drone were equipped with monitors
that helped us tease out signatures for dif-

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ferent species, and it was affordable enough


that we could do monthly or quarterly yovers, he said, then we might be able to do

some really smart prioritizing about eliminating invasives.

That said, the future troubles him. When


you go to Yosemites Hetch Hetchy Valley, like
I did back in 92, and a hummingbird ies up
into your face, two inches away, and you can
feel the beats of its wingsthats cool! he
said. I dont want a drone to do that.

Indeed. The thought of more drones, controlled by guys like me at precious places like
that, is distressing. It will sound radical, but
this is what Ive come to believe: We should
ban the use of drones in all federal wilderness
areas immediately.
O
OUTSIDE CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ERIC
HANSEN (@__EMH) WROTE ABOUT
JAPANS NISEKO SKI RESORT IN JANUARY.

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ROAM:
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Above, from left: Grouper and company;


arriving on Ambergris; mangrove diving
Opposite: Downtime, island style

Spoiler Alert

MOSTLY I REMEMBER the oceans sharp blue


phosphorescence. Looking like a patch of
water that Jesus might walk on, it stretched
with hardly a ripple from the beach out to a
wall of frothing surf just off the coast. Thats
where one of the nest coral reefs in the world
lay submerged below the surface, a divers
magic kingdom beckoning.
This memory comes from my rst trip to
Ambergris Caye, in 1987, back when few outsiders knew about this idyll off the Belizean
coast. Those who did stayed mainly in palmthatched huts with few frills. The sole town,
San Pedro, had a small airport, a few openfront bars, and two sandy, unpaved streets.
There was at least one luxury hotel on the far
north end of the skinny, 26-mile-long island,
near the Mexican border, and a handful of
American and British expats had erected
bungalows near San Pedro. Mostly, though,
Ambergris attracted hardcore divers ogling
the reefs and y-shermen pulling in a profusion of tarpon and bonesh.
Now, 26 years later, I was back, about to
tumble backward off a dive boat into those
same weirdly glowing waters. I had returned
to spend some time with my 18-year-old
son, Alex, before he left for collegeand, I

64 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

suppose, to revisit memories logged by my


twentysomething self.
Mostly, though, I was back to revisit the
scene of my crime.
No, I didnt murder a neighbor on Ambergris, as John McAfee has been charged with
doing in a recent wrongful-death lawsuit.
Hes the eccentric technology mogul who
abandoned Silicon Valley for the island a few
years back, then ed Belize after authorities
sought to question him in the shooting of another expat. According to sordid news reports,
McAfee had dyed his hair blond, surrounded
himself with young women, and shot the man
after an argument over McAfees dogs. (He
denies it.) Nor did my offense involve drugs
or some other contraband.
My misdeed involved a betrayal of the place
itselfof the secret of its existence. Not to a
few friends, but to hundreds of thousands of
people in an article I wrote for Cond Nast
Traveler. Published a few months after my
visit, it was one of those travelogue staples
that whisper seductively about some veiled
Shangri-La known to only a few clued-in
peoplewhich, of course, can forever alter
a place, often unhappily, by inspiring the
hordes to follow. As if I could learn squat

about an island (or a nation of 175,000, the


population of Belize back then) in a few days.
Such is the conundrum of travel writing.
Not long after my Traveler article was published, other magazines followed with their
own reports on Belize. And just like that,
the secret was out. Airlines added direct
flights to Belize City, and discount-travel
companies ran ads for getaway packages.
Then came the cruise ships delivering scuba
divers to the reefs. The throngs scooped up
the conch shells piled high on the bottom
and mistreated the delicate living corals.
Fishermen came, too, some with spin reels
(horrors!), and hauled in boatloads of sport
sh. Hotels both cheap and luxurious sprang
up in San Pedro, along with discotheques
and, I was told, a whorehouse or two. More
expats moved in, with most managing to
avoid getting shot by neighbors.
Back in the U.S., I felt pangs of remorse. Had
I helped produce a netherworld of boorish
tourism in Belize? I had seen it happen before
in places like Patpong, Thailand, which was
a quiet suburb of Bangkok before descending
into a seedy labyrinth of neon, nightclubs,
weird sex acts, and human trafcking.
Not that I could claim full credit for what

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THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT: TONY RATH; ALEX RAPADA; DAVID SAMUEL ROBBINS/CORBIS. OPPOSITE PAGE: MICHAEL HANSON/AURORA.

TWENTY-SEVEN YEARS AGO, DAVID EWING DUNCAN WROTE A MAGAZINE ARTICLE ABOUT A
SECRET TROPICAL GEM CALLED BELIZE, INSPIRING A WAVE OF ADVENTURE TRAVELERS THAT
CHANGED THE TINY COUNTRY FOREVER. BRACED FOR A FEW STABS OF GUILT, HE WENT BACK
WITH HIS SON AND FOUND THAT PARADISE WAS DIFFERENT, BUT NOT COMPLETELY LOST.

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WE LANDED AT the newish international


airport outside Belize City. This spares travelers from going through the old downtown
airport and spending a night in the capital
of the former British Honduras. Guidebooks
have long recommended avoiding the city,
which is supposedly rife with petty thievery. In 1987, when I came here with my then
wifeAlexs motherwe stayed at a Radisson
near the old airport. Security guards warned
us not to explore the streets at night, which
from the parking lot did look run-down, dark,
and dangerous.
Alex and I caught a connection to Ambergris on a Tropic Air 14-seat single-engine
prop plane that wasnt much different than
those I ew on in 1987frayed seats and safety
cards that had been handled so many times
the lamination was wearing off. I found the
ramshackle effect charming, though I wondered why, in a country that now hosts nearly a
million tourists a year who spend $321 million,
Tropic Air couldnt afford a new planeor at
least new safety cards.
This might be the very plane your mother
and I took, I said to Alex.

Are you going to do this the whole trip?


he asked.

Do what?
Talk about what it was like in the old
days?
Yes, I am, I said.

Alex shrugged and looked out the window.


Possibly because hes my third (and final)
child, Alex has learned to be scarily calm and
to smile and occasionally laugh endearingly
at a family not known for its serenity. Like his
older brother and sister, he loves to scubadive, which is why I wanted him to see the
same uorescent waters I had when I was just
a bit older than he is now. He also confessed
to wanting to visit a place where his mother
and father had visited when we were young.
We divorced when Alex was ve, so he has no
memories of a time when his mom and dad
were in love.
The plane rose in an arc and cleared the
shore, leveling off at 5,000 feet. Its the perfect height for a travel writer: low enough
for strong impressions, too far removed for
details. The perch left me feeling momentarily relieved that the coastal islands of
Belize, at least, looked the same from the air,
with mangrove-covered atolls splattering
blobs of dark green against a blue so intense
it looked radioactive.
Fifteen minutes later we were angling
downward over San Pedro, and here I saw an
enormous change. The once tiny town now
had many paved streets sprawling across the
islands narrow middle. On the beach stood a
nearly unbroken progression of white bungalows and hotels.
Go ahead, Dad, said Alex with a rueful
smile. Tell me what it was like back then.
You know you want to.

Downtown
San Pedro

Ambergris
dive shop

66 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

BACK IN 1987, my wife and I had stayed at a

collection of thatch huts called Ramons Reef


that sat on an uncrowded beach. The main
lodge had served basic meals of sh and fruit,
with the chef happily frying up whatever his
guests brought in, including two groupers
wed caught between dives.
Alex and I walked to the same place, now
called Ramons Village Resort. The huts had
given way to luxurious air-conditioned bungalows. A swimming pool shaped like a stream
wound its way Disneyland-like through a
patch of landscaped tropical ora and past
a gigantic modern stone head of a Maya man.
A dozen sleek boats were moored to a pier.
That night, we watched a beauty pageant,
Miss Costa Maya, on a runway that Ramons
had created for the event. The pageant featured contestants from seven Central American countries. With Latin disco pulsing and
spotlights blazing, they sashayed past us in
swimsuits while Alex had his rst legal drink
(the minimum age in the country is 18),
a local beer called Belikin. I was relieved to
nd that the label on Belizes ubiquitous brew
hadnt changed much: a simple depiction of a
Maya temple on a white background.
Holding a pageant on the rough-hewn
beach that had been here 26 years earlier
would have been unthinkable. Yet there was
something purely Belizean about the spectacle. Whole families of locals were in attendance, with grandparents wearing bright
island shirts and kids playing in the sand
behind the folding chairs. I didnt have to ask
if they preferred this life to the paradise of
palm trees and huts Id described in 1987.

THE NEXT DAY , I leaned back on the side


of one of those slick dive boats, holding my
mask and regulator, and fell backward into
the sea. I bobbed up to the surface and gave
the OK sign to our dive master, Turiano
Vasquez. A 60-year-old Maya with a laugh
that came from a rotund and deeply tanned
belly, Vasquez had told me on the trip out
to the reef that he was most likely my guide
in 1987. If you stayed at Ramons, I was the
only guy there, he said.

I asked him what had changed on Ambergris over the years. Im older, he said play
fully. He waved at the sweep of the nearby
coastline and the string of hotels along the
beach. None of this was here, he said. It
was a simple place. And people were poor.

And now? I asked.


Some rich, some poor, he said, shrugging. But mostly people are happy. There
are jobs.

Before we dove, Alex asked if I was OK. I


nodded, though actually I was in extraordinary physical pain. A few months earlier,
a mountain-bike crash had caused me to

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MICHAEL HANSON/AURORA (2)

had happened in Belize. It would have been


discovered eventually. But, as I told Alex during our flight from San Francisco to Belize
City, Words can be powerfuleven stupid
words in a travel magazine.

He turned to me with his disarmingly wise


eyes, as if to say, Duh. I know this. My dad is a
writer. Which may be one reason that he plans
to major in biology.

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Belize
trail

FROM LEFT: MICHAEL HANSON/CORBIS; JEREMIAH WATT

Casting for
bonesh

reinjure my lower spine, aggravating an old


wound from my twenties. Now the swelling
in my back was causing the sciatic nerve in
my left leg to are upit felt like someone
was stabbing my hip with a bowie knife. During our descent, I had to tuck my left leg up to
my chest to avoid a sharp pain when I tried to
straighten it out to kick.
By 40 feet down, Vasquez noticed and
came over. He pointed at my leg and held up
his hands in the universal gesture of Whats
up? I shrugged. He pointed to the surface:
Did I want to go back to the boat? I shook my
head and gave him the OK sign. He looked
at me sternly and then turned away to head
over to a nearby reef. Alex watched with an
inscrutable look. He then tucked his own leg
up, teasing me. It was after this dive that he
started referring to me as my old man.

I concentrated on the dive and saw a big


difference in the reef from my last visit. There
were virtually no conch shells left. They
were taken by divers, Vasquez later admitted.

There also seemed to be fewer sh, though, as


I later learned, this was mostly due to commercial overshing in the eighties and the
more recent impact of climate change on the
coral ecosystem. We saw a stingray, a small
turtle, several groupers, squirrelsh, yellowtail snappers, and angelfish. The colors of
the reef were dazzling. Still, I felt guilty. Alex
would never know what this reef looked like
26 years earlier.
OUR LAST DAY on Ambergris, we hired a

boneshing guide. This was Alexs rst time


saltwater y-shing, so our guide, Manuel
Acosta, a seventy-something (or eightysomething? or sixty-something?) native
of Ambergris, spent much of the morning
showing him how to cast among the mangrove tufts to the south of the island.
After a few hours, I asked Acosta what had
changed on Ambergris. When I was a boy, we
lived in huts and ate sh and had no school,

he said. It was a hard life. Its better now.

I realized that

MY YEARS OF FRETTING
A B O U T M Y RO L E I N RU I N I N G B E L I Z E

PILJMMVI[[]XMZKQITI[UaLM[KZQX\QWV[
WN XIZILQ[MITT\PW[MaMIZ[IOW
I wished I had more time to dig deeper into
Belize, the way I have in countries where I
spent months or years as a foreign correspondent. My quick impression was that
the wonder remained. New roads, bars,
and hotels hadnt ruined the place, even if
the conchs were gone. But, really, who am I
to say? As we oated in the shallows, I was
reminded of something Henry David Thoreau wrote: He who is only a traveler learns
things at second-hand and by the halves, and
is poor authority.

The same is true of travel writers. While


watching Alex land his rst (and only) triggerfish, I realized that my years of fretting
about my role in ruining Belize had been
as superficial as my descriptions of paradise all those years ago. I also realized that,
for me, paradise was being here with Alex
at this instant in time, just as it had been
about being here with his mother in another
time. The sherman and Belize and even the

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incandescent water were part of this moment,


but not as crucial as the moment itself.
With Acosta looking on, I kidded Alex
about the size of his sh. It was smaller than
his hand.
Your mother caught a bigger one back in
1987, I said.

Thats only because the sh were bigger


back then, he said.

And the sky was brighter, I said.

And you werent so old, said Alex.

At this, Acosta cracked the slightest of


smiles. And we shared across the boat, and
across our differences, a moment, tooas men
growing older, as fathers, as shermen. And I
realized that I might only know this man and
his country at second-hand, but in that instant
it didnt matter to either one of us.
O
DAVID EWING DUNCANS LATEST BOOK,
WHEN IM 164, ABOUT EXTREME AGING,
IS OUT NOW FROM TED BOOKS.

OUTSIDEONLINE.COM

67

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VIRAL NOVA

HOW

VIDEOS

MORMON
YOU

KID

CANT

FROM

STO P

ITS

U TA H

SH A R I N G

just past dawn in Jacksonville, Florida, and Im


on the set of YouTube
filmmaker Devin Grahams latest video project, at EverBank Field,
home of the NFLs Jacksonville Jaguars. The
action is unfolding at the tippy-top of one of
eight towers that support the lighting arrays,
350 feet above the playing surface, from which
various members of Grahams crew and the
Jaguar squad will zip-line across the eld.
Graham, 30, is based out of Provo, Utah,
and happens to be the worlds most bankable
action-sports video maker, as measured by
the Internets global reserve currency: the
click. Hes polite and affable, Mormon like
the rest of his team, and a tad husky, with his
trademark plaid baseball cap turned backward over a oppy mop of brown hair that
makes him look half his age. Im scared of
heights, he readily acknowledges as he steps

out into a crows nest, where a crew is rigging


the massive zip line.
Though you may not be familiar with
Graham, youre almost certainly familiar
with his work. His YouTube channel, Devin
Super Trampthe name is taken from Chris
McCandlesss moniker in Into the Wildhas
1.7 million subscribers and falls a few rungs
below Late Night with Jimmy Fallons YouTube channel and a few above Coldplays in
popularity. Graham has uploaded 106 catchy,
watchable videos in the past three years, and
theyve been viewed a combined 288 million
times. These days, hes uploading a video
every week. Highlights include a 140-foot
rope swing at Corona Arch, near Moab, Utah,
that has netted 22 million views. And the dubstep music video he shot for former Americas
Got Talent contestant Lindsey Epic Violin
Girl Stirling, where she dances while playing in an ice palace, which topped 77 million
views last year. There was the Australia grasskart-racing video, where millennials caromed
down a ski hill in open soapbox racers. And

68 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

CRACKED

BY

THE

CODE

G R AY S O N

FOR

PRODUCING

ADVENTURE

SCHAFFER

then theres the second Moab rope-swing


video, in which Creighton Baird, 25, a realityshow-worthy wild man and a frequent star
in Grahams movies, pushes his then girlfriend over the edge of a 400-foot precipice.
Seconds later, her tiny voice shouts from the
distance, Im breaking up with you!
If were being honest, she deserved it,
jokes Seth Jones, 26, a crew member and high
school friend of Bairds, during a pause in the
action. The incident made Baird as undatable as Chris Brown for several months.
(In truth, shed asked him to push her if she
couldnt bring herself to jump.)
Ever since the share button became the
driving force in media consumption, debate
has raged over whether viral content is an
animal spirit that cant be captured or a wild
horse simply in need of a harness. In 2013,
the tamers declared victory. BuzzFeed has
generated billions of clicks through its sharable-content model, and more recently, sites
like Upworthy have exploded by tapping into
our willingness to pass along anything fresh
and uplifting, no matter how banal. (Example:
This supercut of animals yawning might kill
you with cuteness.
)
But as far as one-man viral-video auteurs
go, Graham is in a league of his own, and Corporate America has taken notice. Graham
now gets paid tens of thousands of dollars
on top of production costs to place products,
from Ford to Kelloggs to Mountain Dew, in
his videos. Kevin Allocca, head of culture and
trends at YouTube, says Graham is emblematic of a big change thats happened in the
gatekeeping system of media. A guy like
Devin can set up shop in a place like Utah and
become a mogul in the entertainment space
without needing a giant studio. Graham is in

such demand that when one sponsor dropped


out of the Jacksonville zip-line-party shoot,
Panasonic replaced it within hours, sending
Graham a GoPro-like action cam and a set of
headphones that he had his talent wear while

he lmed them. Though not a client, the Jaguars also understand the value of Grahams
mojo and are more than willing to give him
the run of the place.
At 9 A.M., Grahams hired riggers are
ready to stress-test their creation, built by
53-year-old Tom Andrews, a sun-worn
Gunks climber. The contraption consists of
a bungee-jumping cord attached by pulleys
to an 850-foot zip line that spans the width
of the stadium, terminating at the top of the
opposite lighting tower. A rigger named Paul
kicks a pair of 100-pound disc weights over
the edge. The weights rocket briey toward
the nosebleed seats 80 feet below us, clank
together dully, and arc cleanly toward the
50-yard line, all of it in near silence. Thats
what we like, says Andrews.

They reset the apparatus and get ready for


the days action. The Jaguars furry mascot,
Jaxson de Ville, along with Baird, Jones, and a
half-dozen of the teams cheerleaders, clad in
booty shorts and high-heeled boots, will leap,
dive, and somersault off the stadium lights
using the bungee-zip-line rig.
Graham shouts to his crew, positioned with
cameras around the tower: Everyone good?
Creighton? Good? He signals for another
cameraman to launch a drone that will record
the action from above and begins the jump
countdown. Then comes a shout from Jones
down on the eld: Hey, wheres the record
button on this one?
I like to hire guys who dont know the
rules, so they arent worried about breaking
them, says Graham.

DESPITE WHAT his videos might imply,


Graham is less a visionary than a diligent researcher. He gets ideas from his fans and from
videos on Facebook that have performed
decently but could really catch fire if they
were shot and edited a little more strategically. Climbers had been swinging at Corona
Arch well before Baird rst showed Graham

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COURTESY OF DEVIN GRAHAM (9)

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a clip of the action. And Grahams video of


slow-motion underwater dogs, uploaded in
October 2012, arrived shortly after similar
still photos became a brief Internet meme.
Says Graham: The whole game is looking at
what other people are sharing, whats viral,
and doing my own rendition of it.

His rendition is his secret. Grahams signature is in making short videos in which
attractive people are having crazy fun and
dont say much, and (it appears) somebody
happened to bring along a camera. Theyre
the sort of thing youd like to imagine you and
your friends doingmud ghts, being pulled
in a cardboard box behind Dale Earnhardt
Jr., getting flung from a human slingshot.
I watch his stuff online on my TV when I
get home at night all the time, says Allocca.

Devins friends are having way more fun

than whatever Im doing. That it looks like a

low-budget production is another big part of


the formula. The goal is for it to seem attainable. (Warning: It isnt. Last March, a copycat
who attempted to re-create the rope swing
died.) And while the rest of the action-sports
world has adopted Hollywood production
values, Graham shoots mostly with a Canon
DSLR. I realized that people would connect
with me better if I did everything on a camera
they could afford, he says.

Grahams journey to mogulhood began in


2009, when he made his rst video, a tutorial on how to beat halitosis for a company
called Orabrush, which was launching a
breath-freshening tongue cleaner. The clip
killed it (18 million views and counting) because there hadnt yet been a really good
video on how to combat continued on page 95

WorldMags.net

DEVIN SUPER TRAMPS


GREATEST HITS

GRAHAM RACKED UP 288 MILLION


VIEWS IN JUST UNDER THREE
YEARS. THESE ARE THE VIDEOS
THAT MOVED THE NEEDLE.
Top row, from left: Graham in Fighting
for Your Passion (611,430 clicks); Human
Slingshot Slip and Slide (12.9 million
clicks); Bike ParkourStreets of San Francisco! (1.6 million clicks)
Middle row, from left: Cliff Jumping
Hawaii (six million clicks); Trike Drifting
(13.5 million clicks); Worlds Largest Rope
Swing (22.3 million clicks)
Bottom row, from left: Cardboard Rodeo
(1.3 million clicks); Salt Boarding (1.8 million clicks); Epic Violin GirlLindsey Stirling
(77 million clicks)

OUTSIDEONLINE.COM

69

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SEARCH THE WEB FOR DEAN REINKE AND YOULL SOON BE SCROLLING THOUGH
R O A D - R A C E C O M PA N Y, U S R A H A L F M A R AT H O N , D O B U S I N E S S . I S H E A F R A U D W H O
S L I M E D BY H I S E N E M I ES ? GO R DY M EG ROZ C RAC KS T H E CO D E O N O N E O F T H E M O ST

P H O T O G R A P H

B Y

MASSIMO
G A M M A C U RTA

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A RAP SHEET OF CONSUMER COMPLAINTS ABOUT HOW HE AND HIS FOR-PROFIT


H A S S TAY E D O N E S T E P A H E A D O F T H E L AW , O R A N U P S TA N D I N G M A N W H O S B E E N
BIZARRE SPORTS -BUSINESS STORIES YOULL EVER HEAR.

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OUTSIDE MAGAZINE

71

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O N A U G U S T 1 2 , 2 0 1 2 , M a u r e e n L a m pa , a
61-year-old retired teacher, her
daughter, and her daughters friend
a l l p i l e d i n t o L a m pa s C h r y s l e r
convertible for the three-hour
drive from their home in Westminster,
M a s s a c h u s e t t s , t o F r e e p o r t, M a i n e .

72 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

Due to his actions, our agreement to use the


approved course was reneged on despite the
support of Freeport USA, Portland Convention & Visitors Bureau, and the State of Maine
Tourism. To Lampa, Reinke wrote that Spear

has proven he is a pathological liar.

Lampa and several other runners contacted Spear, who was shocked by the accusation. Ive never even met him, Spear told

me when we spoke on the phone. And I


certainly didnt try to block his race. Thats

true. Spear had nothing to do with the cancelation of Reinkes event. The strange reality
is this: the 2012 Freeport Half Marathon was
never even scheduled to happen.
A year earlier, Reinke had hosted a half
marathon in Freeport and it had gone off
without any problems. But after the race,
Reinke didnt pay the $1,325 he contractually owed the Freeport police department
for traffic-control services. In the meantime, Reinke had already started collecting
entry fees for a 2012 race in Freeport, even
though he didnt have any permits in hand
and hadnt applied for any.
In spring 2012, James Hendricks, a Freeport town-council member, called Reinke
and asked him to come to Maine and answer
a few questions. Reinke ew in and insisted
that there had been a mix-up about the delinquent payment. He wrote a check on the spot
and submitted a special-events application
for the 2012 event. At meetings end Reinke
was informed that, before his 2012 application could be approved, the town council
would have to meet and decide whether to
grant him a new permit. We shared our concerns that we were not happy that the event
was advertised as a set event when in fact
the Town of Freeport had not approved it,
Gerald Schoeld, chief of the Freeport police
department, told me in an e-mail.
Reinke was invited to attend but told the
council he couldnt make it. On May 1, the
seven council members voted unanimously
to deny his permit. Reinke was informed of
the decision, but the USRA website, which he
owns and operates, continued to promote and

collect entry fees for the race, as did Active


.com, a separate online-registration forum
for people seeking race opportunities. In all,
roughly 100 people reportedly paid the $60
entry fee for the race, and 30 complained to
Hendricks that they did not receive refunds.
Hendricks encouraged Lampa and other
runners to contact the office of Maines
attorney general to file a complaint. The
Maine AG referred them all to the Florida
AGReinkes company is based in Winter
Park, near Orlandowho told the runners
that the office didnt handle small claims
and suggested that they file a complaint
with the Better Business Bureau. If the runners wanted their money back, theyd need to
lawyer up and take Reinke to court.
Thats not worth it, Lampa says. Youd

end up spending more on legal fees to recover


the money than on the entry fee itself.

And thats where the matter died. The


2012 Freeport Half Marathon, the race that
never happened, made Dean Reinke a slightly
wealthier man.
TO PEOPLE IN the running community, the
Freeport incident wasnt surprising. Google
Reinkes name and youll see why: Most
results will lead you to angry blog posts
and message-board complaints by runners
or people linked to running organizations.
Going back to 2010, there are stories about
charities that worked with Reinke and then
never received any of the proceeds they were
promised. About races that never happened
and refunds that werent paid. About police
departments, race ofcials, and T-shirt companies that say they were never compensated
for the work they did on USRA events.
One blogger describes Reinke as a con
man. A commenter labels him a snake oil

salesman. A poster to a message board called

LetsRun.com sympathizes with a fellow runner who fell prey to yet another shady race
situation in the long, sordid history of this
individual as a race director. In a Runners
World.com thread about Reinke, one runner
stated that Reinke managed a half marathon

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OPENING PAGES: SHOE BY MATTHEW SPORZYNSKI

In May, the women had signed up for a race


called the Freeport Half Marathon, and theyd
spent four months running ve to ten miles a
day, ve days a week, to prepare. This would be
Lampas fth half marathon. For her daughter, Katherine, and her daughters friend Lauren Laserte, both 21, it was their rst.
On August 13, after spending the night in
a nearby hotel, the group pulled into downtown Freeport an hour before the races
scheduled 7 A.M. start time. But when they
arrived, there was no sign of a race. No start
banner, no water stations, no police directing trafc, no markers indicating the course
route. Lampa walked into L.L.Beans agship
store on Main Street to ask about the event.
Nobody knew anything about a Freeport Half
Marathon. Did Lampa have the wrong day?
The wrong location?
The women drove back to their hotel room.
As soon as they arrived, Lampa sat down and
sent an e-mail to the races organizer, Dean
Reinke, the 60-year-old CEO and president
of a ve-year-old nationwide series he calls
USRA Half Marathon, a company he founded
in 2009.
I am sitting in my hotel room with no race
to run, Lampa wrote. I spent over $100 to

register my daughter and me for this race and


spent $150 for a hotel room, because we live
three hours from the supposed race site. I
want my money back!
Three hours later, Reinke responded to
Lampaand other runners whod sent
bewildered e-mailsclaiming that Howard
Spear, the director of a popular annual event
in Portland called the Maine Marathon,
was to blame for the race getting canceled,
apparently acting out of spite. Anybody with
a complaint should take it up with him.
With registration open and plans fully
underway, just a few months ago Maine Track
Clubs Howard Spear submitted some false
accusations and lies about the USRA to local
politicians, Reinke wrote. Spear had done

the same thing a year ago but was rebuffed


by the Freeport USA Tourism Group who
were very happy with us and the event.

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in Lexington, KY this past March. It was the


most poorly facilitated race Ive ever seen.
Reinke only cares about making prot and
has no concern for the runners experience.

The Better Business Bureau gives a solid F


to Reinke Sports Groupthe LLC behind the
USRA Half Marathon Seriesand lists 23 user
complaints on its website, including allegations of poor race management. Theres also a
Tumblr site called Reinke Sports Group Race
Reviews, which is dedicated to chronicling
the negative reviews and race failures of the
USRA Half Marathon Series.

The site contains a glut of negative information, including a letter from the Convention and Visitors Bureau in Bentonville,
Arkansas, stating that Reinke never paid
two charitiesthe Bentonville Public School
Foundation and the Northwest Arkansas
Food Bankproceeds hed promised them
from a 2010 race, and that Reinke still owed
money to the Clarion Hotel and Convention
Center for space used during a prerace expo
and packet pickup. The visitor bureau eventually covered the amount owed to the charities and the hotel.
Also available on the Tumblr site is a link
to a letter from John Sensenig, the owner of
Johns Run/Walk Shop in Lexington, Kentucky. In it he states: We had a very bad

Not surprisingly, Reinke has had his share


of legal disputes. In 2010, in a partnership
with the city of Joplin, Missouri, he staged
the Mother Road Marathon, an event that
drew 1,929 runners. After that race, the city
council decided that city employees had done
a disproportionate amount of the work and
told Reinke they were severing ties. Nonetheless, he moved forward, promoting his own
Mother Road Marathon in Joplin. The city
of Joplin sued Reinke for rights to the races
title, but he prevailed. According to reports
at the time, Joplin settled out of court, paying
him $20,000 to give up the name.
Also that year, Reinke petitioned the city
of West Lafayette, Indiana, and Purdue University to hold a half marathon that would
weave through the city and the Purdue campus. He was denied permission, but he began
promoting a race 30 miles away, calling it the
Home of Purdue Half Marathon. Purdue sued
Reinke for using its name without permission. As part of a settlement, he was barred
from appropriating the schools intellectual
property and banned for three years from
holding races anywhere in Purdues home
county, Tippecanoe.
In 2013, the city of Worcester, Massachusetts, also sued Reinke over unpaid bills, and
the city of Barnstable is considering similar

that have been put on three times before and


four that will hit their ve-year mark. Since
Reinke started his race series, 25,000 people
have participated, and the USRA website
is plastered with photos of happy runners
proudly displaying their nisher medals.
The USRA races are fun, simple, and lowkey, but with an upbeat environment, says

Todd Lytle, a race director for several charity


events in Clermont, Florida, who has run ve
of Reinkes races. The courses are through
nice state parks and scenic downtown areas,
and theyre usually in smaller places where
you wouldnt normally nd a half marathon.
A lot of times, theres bands and pizza after
the race, and thats pretty unique.

Reinke also has good working relationships with several people in the towns where
his races are held, some of whom defend him.
After I called the Las Cruces, New Mexico,
police department, looking for information
about a late payment Reinke owed the city
for a race held there in September 2013, I got
a separate call from Ed Carnathan, sports
director at the Las Cruces Convention and
Visitors Bureau. Carnathan said that in the
four years hed held races in Las Cruces,
thered never been a problem.
What about the late bill?
Youve never had a late bill before? he

The Better Business Bureau gives Reinke


sports group a solid F and lists 23 user comp l a i n t s o n i t s w e b s i t e , i n c l u d i n g a l l e g at i o n s
o f p o o r r a c e m a n a g e m e n t.
experience with Mr. Reinke and his USRA
race that was held here in Lexington in spring
of 2010. Johns Run/Walk Shop, the city of
Lexington, and even the sponsored charity
dropped our support of his race and refused
to support him in future races in Lexington.

Sensenig didnt respond to my request for


an interview about what went wrong, but
I was able to reach Anna Seitz, the clientrelations and marketing assistant at FasigTipton, a thoroughbred-auction firm in
Lexington that lined up a facility used during
the start and nish of the race.
What didnt go wrong? Seitz says with
a sigh. He wouldnt pay the charity, Blue
Grass Farms, or the vendors, and we ended
up doing most of the work. When Reinke
walked into a meeting with city officials
requesting permits for a 2011 race in Lexington, he denied everything. Voices were
raised, says Seitz. Then we said, Were not

going to sit here and argue with you. Were


recommending that you not be granted a
permit. It was the rst time he shut up.

action.I dont understand how he keeps getting away with stuff like this, says Sergeant

Andrew McKenna of the Barnstable police


department, which worked one of Reinkes
races. Why do places keep hiring him?
M C KENNA ASKED the obvious question.

Based on his track record, how is Dean Reinke


still in business?
To start with, its important to note that
not all USRA races are flops. Reinke holds
23 events nationwide, and a few are consistently successful, following a simple model
that works for race organizers around the
nation: charge an ample entry fee, keep
costs under control, realize prot. Runners
have proven to be remarkably tolerant of fees
closing in on $100 for non-marathons and
$100 to $150 (and sometimes more) for marathons. Still, prot margins are pretty narrow.
If you attract 1,500 people to a half marathon
at $60 each, and keep municipal expenses
modest, youll earn a ballpark $15,000.
In 2014, Reinke will oversee three races

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said. Ive asked him to pay it. I can only ask


him so many times.

An essential source for answering questions about Reinke, of course, is Reinke, but
for the rst few months that I researched this
story, he failed to respond. I was able to piece
together a basic portrait from various places,
so I knew that he was 60, was on the shorter
side, and was a former college athlete whod
run varsity track for Indiana University in
the 1970s. I also knew that he had closecropped brown hair and a toothy grin, and
was considered a sales genius by some people
whod met him.
The best Ive ever seen, says Mark Crep
eau, a consultant in Ormond Beach, Florida,
who worked for Reinke from 1989 to 1991
and credits his ex-boss with teaching him
how to sell and market events. Hes highenergy, a dynamic presenter, and unbelievably disciplined. He has a schedule and routine, is organized as hell, and has a steel trap
for a memory. Others described Reinke as
gregarious, extremely smart, and willing to

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73

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ONE PERSON I spoke withIll call him


Tom, because he asked that I not use his real
namewas Reinkes liaison for the Tri Cities Half Marathon in Richland, Washington.
Not long after signing on with Reinke in 2011,
Tom confronted him over the phone about
reports of unpaid bills in various cities. He
says Reinke offered a multitude of excuses.
Dean told me that those cities had experienced great success with his races, he
recalls. Then they decided they could do it
without him and they kicked him out. The
way he saw it, based on that, he didnt owe
them any money.

OK, but why had Reinke opened registration for the Tri-Cities race prior to securing
permits? Tom remembers Reinke saying:
Ive been doing this a long time, and this is
how we do it.

Everything had an answer, and it seemed


to make sense, Tom says. I decided that
there were two sides to every story and that
he was telling me the truth.

In February 2012, the Tri Cities Half Marathon was executed perfectly. The race drew
659 participants, and Reinke spared no expense to make it a first-class experience.
There was plenty of food and refreshment at
the nishpizza, cookies, Gatoradea band
played, and each runner received a T-shirt
and a high-quality finisher medal. The
die-cast ones, said Tom. Not the kind with

stickers on them.

The next year, Reinke was determined to


grow the event, with the goal of drawing at
least 1,000 runners. He also wanted to hold
a health and tness expo in one of the hotels

74 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

convention center on the afternoon before


the race, something runners would cruise
through while they picked up their numbers. To sell vendor spots at the convention,
Reinke hired Wendy Harris, a local stay-athome mom. For each vendor Harris brought
in, shed earn a 15 percent commission.
Tom continued in his role as liaison, but
things seemed different to him this time. The
year before, when Tom submitted receipts
to Reinke for purchases, Reinke sent him a
check almost immediately. Now it was taking
months. He blamed it on his billing system,

Tom says.
Meanwhile, Tom had discovered that
Reinke owed the nearby Yakima Valley Sports
Commission $1,500 for a race that had taken
place there earlier in the year. Dean told me
hed applied for a grant and that it had fallen
through, Tom explains. Hed planned on
paying that bill using the grant money. It
should have raised a red ag, but I was just
so excited about what we were doing that I
was blinded.

Eight hundred and forty runners turned


out for the 2013 Tri Cities Half Marathon.
Reinke was so pleased that he decided to
move his Yakima race (the one he still owed
$1,500 to the city for) to the Tri-Cities area
and hold it in July, calling it the Columbia
River Half Marathon.
But soon after the 2013 Columbia River
event, Tom started getting complaints.
Mighty Johns, the company that supplied the
portable toilets for the Tri-Cities race, was
still owed $550; Russ Zornick, whod timed a
race for Reinke in Edmonds, Washington, was
owed $750; Wendy Harris hadnt received all
of the commission shed earned; and the local
charity, the Union Gospel Mission, which had
provided the volunteers and was promised
$225, hadnt been paid, either.
After a local TV station ran a report about
the unpaid charity, Reinke immediately sent
them a check. As of December 2013, however,
Mighty Johns, Zornick, and Harris still hadnt
been paid, even though each of them had contacted Reinke several times requesting what
they were owed.
By the time Harris found out that other
people were still waiting for checks, she was
already selling vendor spaces at another
health and tness expo for Reinkes Columbia
River Half Marathon. At that point, shortly
before the July race, Harris quit, sending
Reinke an e-mail that said, I am not paid to
be at the expo or the race. Nor have you paid
me for the booth spaces lled. My time is
valuable. I do not and will not work for free.

Reinke replied, calling Harris unprofessional.

I am very disappointed, he wrote. I


expected a lot more from you. I guess you

dont care what you leave behind since you


are leaving the market.

Harris and Tom, who had also told Reinke


that he was stepping down from his post,
took their case to the Tri-Cities Visitor and
Convention Bureau, telling officials about
the unpaid bills. When Reinke caught wind
of it he was furious, and Harris says he left a
threatening voice mail. He said I better hope
he doesnt run into me the next time hes in
town, Harris told me.

But what happened after that is the most


puzzling. The Visitor and Convention Bureau
ignored the warnings and allowed Reinke to
move forward with a 2014 race anyway. Why?
They said they didnt want to get wrapped
up in the politics, says Tom.

DEAN REINKE IS on the phone, and he

sounds pissed off. A few weeks ago, I sent


him an e-mail requesting an interview. He
declined, saying he was too busy. I followed

Reinke at the
Columbia Half
Marathon in
South Carolina

up a week later, telling him I realized he was


probably hesitant to speak with me because
of allegations made against him in the past,
but that Id love to y to Florida and give him
the opportunity to discuss it. That e-mail
went unanswered.
Now, however, he seems fully aware that
Ive been tracking his business practices.
Im getting calls from people saying youre
trying to bring me down! Reinke shouts. I
dont need somebody whos trying to do a
hatchet job on me. Do you even know anything about me? Have you ever done any of
my races? The conversation is brief, with
Reinke repeatedly saying, Ive been doing
this for 30-plus years!
As Reinke says, hes been involved in the
running industry since the early 1980s. Prior
to that, he was a track and cross-country

WorldMags.net

BRIGHTROOM

promise just about anything to close a deal.


Thats the problem, said Crepeau, who

has mixed feelings about Reinke. Hell


promise the universe but only deliver 20 or
so galaxies.

To pitch events, Reinke attends biannual


conventions that bring together visitor
bureaus, sports commissions, hoteliers, and
the like. Typically, he goes after the local
tourism center, and to seal the deal, hell
guarantee to get people in hotel beds and
at restaurant tables. Thats usually enough
to prompt the visitor bureaus to sign on. At
that point, Reinke often connects with a local
liaison, usually somebody from a running
club, wholl help map out the course, secure
permits, and lock down portable toilets, volunteers, and other race essentials.
But almost always, city ofcials and others
involved in the race go back to their desks and
start to research the man behind the USRA
Half Marathon Series. They usually run into
the ak about him that appears online, and
thats when the master salesman really demonstrates his charm and skill.

WorldMags.net

star at Andrew Jackson High School in South


Bend, Indiana. After graduating, in 1971,
Reinke went on to compete for Indiana University, where he ran a 4:02 mile and represented the school at several NCAA championship meets. He was a light-footed runner,

recalls Sam Bell, 85, Reinkes coach at Indiana. We had a pretty good team, and he was
our number-two man. He was outgoing, congenial, people liked him.

Reinke graduated from Indiana in 1976


and by the early eighties had landed a job as
promotions director at Brooks Sports, the
running-shoe company that, at the time,
was located in Hanover, Pennsylvania. His
job was to sponsor athletes and work out
sponsorship deals with running events.
But Reinkes departure from Brooks was
acrimonious. George Dietel, Reinkes boss,
red him after learning about what he viewed
as shady business deals. For one thing, he discovered that Reinke would sometimes provide better sponsorships to race directors if
they brought him in as a speakersomebody
to provide an inspirational message. For that,
Reinke would be paid separately.
When I called Dietel and told him what I
was researching, he chuckled and said, Id

nent injunction and decreed that Reinke was


responsible for paying St. Josephs $20,000
for damages to the hospitals reputation, plus
attorney fees. Reinke agreed to back off, but he
couldnt afford to pay the hospital. The court
recognized his inability to pay the judgment.
A few months later, Reinke announced that
the Chicago Vultures, a team in the American Indoor Soccer Association (AISA), would
play an exhibition against the Chicago Sting,
from the Major Indoor Soccer League, at the
University of Notre Dame. But the Vultures
hadnt signed off on the game. He did not
get our permission, nor do any of our teams
want to play in anything that is connected
with Dean Reinke, Martha Makay, executive

assistant to the AISA commissioner, told


the South Bend Tribune at the time. Reinke
wants to get paid for promoting our soccer
teams, and we have told him before that we
can take care of our own promotions. He has
caused our league nothing but trouble.

In 1985, it was reported that Reinke led


for Chapter 7 bankruptcy. He owed large
sums to various media outlets that had promoted other running events hed staged in
the area, as well as to utility companies and
lawyers, to name a few. Roughly $200,000

He was always looking to hustle people.

Reinke also continued to have trouble


paying his bills. The Road Runners Club
of Americas Footnotes, National Masters
News, and Running Timesall of which were
owed advertising feesapproached Imperial
Chemical Industries, Reinkes main sponsor
for his masters circuit, to ask it to step in and
force Reinke to pay up.
By 1991, the masters series was over. For
the next decade, Reinke continued to promote races on a small scale while also taking on a variety of other clients. In the midnineties, he served as executive director of
the United States Croquet Association. He
just sandbagged his way through that job,
says Bob Alman, publisher of Croquet World
magazine. He would take credit for things
he had nothing to do with. Everyone wanted
him fired. By 2004, he was working for a
publisher of sports books.
In 2010, Reinke started the USRA Half
Marathon Series, seizing on the surging
popularity of the 13.1-mile races. Since 2003,
half marathons have grown faster than road
races of any other distance. From 2006 to
2012, the number of nishers increased by
10 percent or more each year. During the

T h at s t h e p r o b l e m , s ay s r e i n k e s f o r m e r
colleague Mark Crepeau. Hell promise the
u n i v e r s e b u t o n ly d e l i v e r 2 0 o r s o g a l a x i e s .
just as soon have nothing to do with it. But

in a 1989 story published in a newsletter put


out by Road Race Management, a membership organization, Dietel said that the ring
stemmed from very flagrant double dipping and involved a considerable amount
of money.

After leaving Brooks, Reinke went back


to South Bend, where he was hired by the
St. Josephs Medical Center to create, promote, and direct a 10K that he called the
Sportsmed. According to news reports at the
time, after three years at the helm of the race,
he stopped working with St. Josephs in 1984,
for reasons that I couldnt pin down.
Rather than walk away quietly, Reinke
began promoting his own race, one that
would take place the same day as the hospitals event. St. Josephs sued, and Reinke was
slapped with a temporary injunction that
barred him from promoting, organizing,
sponsoring, advertising, directing, or conducting any race that overlapped with the
St. Josephs 10K.
According to reports, Reinke ignored the
injunction and moved forward, promoting
what he called the Sportsfest 10K. At that
point, the judge in the case issued a perma-

worth of Reinkes belongings were liquidated


and used to pay off the debt, and Reinke
moved to Winter Park.
But just two years later, Reinke started
an even bigger business, Dean Reinke and
Associates, that promoted nearly 100 running races nationwide, including a masters
racing circuit for elite runners 40 and older.
The masters races attracted big names like
Boston and New York City Marathon winner
Bill Rodgers, Olympians Marty Liquori and
Frank Shorter, and Kenyan sensation Wilson
Waigwa. Reinke wanted to do for running
what other senior circuits had done for golf
and tennis, and by many accounts the races
were well produced. But the circuit wasnt
without controversy.
According to Rodgers, Reinke skimmed
money from appearance fees owed to the
celebrity runners. Rodgers recalls a race
in Macon, Georgia, that was sponsored by
Arbys. The fee that Dean had given me
seemed low, he says. So I asked the guy
from Arbys what I was supposed to get, and
it was double what Dean had paid me. I confronted him, and he hemmed and hawed and
said, You know, Billy, I treat you so well, and
I take you to a lot of races. He was like that.

WorldMags.net

past ve years, Reinke has expanded from 10


to 23 races, with plans for more events. In a
November 2013 newsletter e-mailed to past
USRA participants, Reinke wrote that he had
just attended a conference in Salt Lake City
and that he was interested in organizing races
in 25 cities. We love to increase the number
of areas where we are placing our events and
would love your feedback if youd like us to
come to your area, he wrote.

A LITTLE OVER a week after our rst phone

call, Reinke agreed to a real interview, with


the condition that it wouldnt be recorded.
This time theres a different guy on the phone.
Reinke speaks very fast but hes jovial. He asks
me where Im from.
I grew up in Vermont, I tell him.
You see your Catamounts basketball team
last night? he excitedly asks, referring to the
University of Vermonts near upset of Duke.
I tell him I missed it.
Too bad! It was a great game!
I cant help but like this Reinke a little, and
I can see why people might nd him easy to
trust. He tells me about growing up in South
Bend, how hed wanted to be the quarterback
at Notre Dame but realized he was built to be

OUTSIDEONLINE.COM

75

WorldMags.net

a distance runner. He tells me about his family: three children, one of whom has special
needs. And he talks about his father, the head
of a construction company who busted his
ass and taught young Dean that if you work
hard, you get rewarded.

But when I start asking about unpaid bills


and canceled races, he gets defensive.
I dont owe anybody any money, he says

rmly.
What about Marathon Sportswear and
Gordon Lovie, the T-shirt makers who say
theyre owed roughly $12,000 and $2,300,
respectively? Or Val Lofton, a race timer who
claims shes still owed $1,000? Or Mighty
Johns? Or Russ Zornick? Or Wendy Harris? Or the Barnstable and Las Cruces police
departments?
Reinke pauses. The thing that you need to
understand, he says, is that Im not always

responsible for the bill. Sometimes its the


convention and visitor bureau, sometimes
they were supposed to be paid through a
grant, sometimes its a sponsor that owes
them money.

I ask Reinke why, then, he doesnt tell these


people that they need to contact somebody
else to get paid? Why does he ignore their
calls and e-mails?
I dont ignore them, Ive told them this.

I move on to canceled races without refunds. Earlier, Id spoken to Phil Stewart,


editor and publisher at Road Race Manage-

port, Maine. All have failed to get a refund.


In addition, responding to an online article
published after the canceled Greenwood race,
Reinke had this to say in the comments section: Like most major races throughout the
country, we too have a no refund policy as
stated in our waiver, standard in the industry.

Reinke and I speak for nearly two hours,


and he continues to deny allegations. When I
ask him why he was red from Brooks, he tells
me he wasnt. The company wasnt doing
well, he says. I decided to move on. But
usually Reinke is focused on trying to shift
the conversation toward the great things hes
done for people and the sport of running.
Were creating a tourism destination
event to get people active and support a
charity, he says, sounding sincere. I look at

people whove had a heart attack or cancer


or people whose husband just left them. We
take a serious look at these people and how
our races change their lives.

WHEN IT COMES to road races and possible games of deception, Reinke isnt alone.
According to Jean Knaack, the executive
director of the Road Runners Club of America (RRCA), small-scale con artists across the
country set up races, collect entry fees, then
ee townnever to be heard from again. In
2012, an Indiana company called Rapid Running Event Management pulled the plug on
three races it never received permits for,

white-collar crime at Stanford Law School.


But if hes doing these things over and over,
you could make the case that hes doing it on
purpose. And thats larceny.

Though Reinke has probably pocketed at


least $25,000 through unpaid bills and by
refusing refunds, that would certainly be
enough for the attention of a prosecutor.
Weisberg says that if Reinke is using the
Internet to collect entry fees, thereby reaching
across state lines, he could be charged with a
federal crime. But federal prosecutors probably have bigger things to deal with, so they
arent concerned with something like this.

If any law-enforcement agency is looking


into criminal charges, it certainly isnt deterring Reinke from pressing forward.
Last December, he e-mailed me a few
references, people who he says can vouch
for his character and professionalism. One
is Chris Hamilton, the executive director at
the Aurora, Illinois, Convention and Visitors
Bureau. I call Hamilton, only to nd out that
he has been let go. Instead, Im directed to
Charlie Zine, Reinkes liaison for the inaugural Fox River Trail Half Marathon, held in
Aurora in May 2013. Zine tells me that the
race went pretty well but Reinke never paid
the charity, the Rosary High School track
team, which did all the volunteer work and
was owed at least $200.
We use that money to put on meets, buy
equipment, and buy food for the races, says

I m g e t t i n g c a l l s f r o m p e o p l e s ay i n g y o u r e
t ry i n g t o b r i n g m e d o w n ! R e i n k e s h o u t s . I
d o n t n e e d s o m e b o d y w h o s t ry i n g t o d o a
h at c h e t j o b o n m e .
ment, a company that publishes newsletters
and how-to guides about organizing running
events. Stewart told me its common practice
for road races to have a no-refund policy for
canceled races, but that it usually applies
only when a race is shut down because of bad
weather or some other circumstance out of
managements controlnot because the race
director failed to secure permits. And when
directors do cancel, they typically roll over
the entry fee to the next years race.
When Reinke cancels races, he allows runners to transfer into one of his other 22 events.
But those are often several months later and
several hundred miles away from the original location. When I ask Reinke about this,
he stresses: But I do offer refunds.

This contradicts several people I spoke


with, who told me theyd requested refunds
after canceled USRA races in Tracy, California; Greenwood, South Carolina; and Free-

76 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

pocketing the entry fees and not refunding any of the participants. It subsequently
went out of business. But nobody does this
on Reinkes scale, says Knaack.

For its part, the RRCA booted Reinke from


its membership (something that Knaack
says rarely happens), established a racemanagement code of ethics, and published
an online story called Buyer Beware, which

advised runners to do several things before


signing up for any race, including Google
the company or promoter.

But none of that has real teeth. RRCA


membership is essentially just a label, and
Reinke can always gure out another way to
sell his races. In fact, hes already begun going
around tourism ofces, pitching city mayors
and city managers directly. So the real question is this: Is Reinke acting criminally?
Only if theres intent to deceive, says
professor Robert Weisberg, an expert in

Vic Mead, the schools coach. We do this for


a lot of races, and were usually paid within a
month, but Im still waiting.

Later I speak with Dale Berman, the mayor


of North Aurora, a city where part of the race
took place. Hes aware that the charity hasnt
been paid and tells me that there wont be a
race here if I have anything to do with it. The
Convention and Visitors Bureau wouldnt
support his permit, and as mayor of North
Aurora, I wouldnt allow him to race here.

Given that information, it appears unlikely


that Reinkes 2014 half marathon in Aurora
will happen. But when I log on to the USRA
website, Im able to sign up for the race anyway, paying a $50 entry fee with my credit
card. I dont expect to ever run it. And I dont
expect to get my money back.
O
GORDY MEGROZ (@GORDYMEGROZ) IS
AN OUTSIDE CORRESPONDENT.

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slip a pair of pricey merinos over your appreciative dogs, youll enjoy a premature glimpse of the wise
old man youll one day become. Also: cut your toenails more often.

82 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

WorldMags.net Photographs by INGA HENDRICKSON

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Mobile Devices

GET THAT EXTRA EDGE WITH THE BEST KNIVES AND MULTITOOLS

by Jeremy K. Spencer
1. Benchmade Volli
THE SELL: At 4.3 ounces
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your next ight. $13;
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5. W.R. Case and Sons


Amber Bone SS Hobo
THE SELL: A carving knife
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THE DELIVERY: Like any
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SS Hobo includes a collapsible fork and spoon.
Its also extremely well
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kit. $90; wrcase.com

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Theres an art to
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03.14

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Spectrum

BEST FOR:
BACKCOUNTRY
RAMBLERS

MSR
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ASCENT

The massive decking on the Lightning


Ascents will keep
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designs.com

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ROSSIGNOL
X-IUM SKATING WCS S2

If youre a decent
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carbon-tipped skis
weigh less than
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spring in the glide
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take their game
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rossignol.com
Wear Them
With: The rest
of Rossis X-ium
line, including the
low-prole X-ium
WC Skate boots
($510), ultralight
(0.4 pound)
X-celerator Skate
NIS bindings
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poles ($320).

Wear Them
With: The North
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insulated Iceare
Mid GTX boots;
theyre comfortable when the
temps plummet
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White
Lightning

BEST FOR:
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LOUIS
GARNEAU
COURSE 721

WITH THESE THREE


WINTER SETUPS, YOU
DONT NEED A RESORT
TO BOUND THROUGH
THE SNOW

At 1.6 pounds
each, the Course
721s are among
the lightest
snowshoes on
the marketand,
at only 12 inches
wide, among the
slimmest. The
aluminum frame
is gently tapered
toward the heel for
a natural running
stride, and the
crampons maintain traction on
packed singletrack,
which is where
these perform
best. $250; louis
garneau.com
Wear Them
With: Salomons
Speedcross 3 trail
runners, which
feature aggressive
tread, mud guards,
and quick laces
for winter running.
$145; salomon.com

by Whitney Dreier

84 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

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Photograph by INGA HENDRICKSON

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A DV E R T I S E M E N T

FRESH LOOK

A GUIDE TO NEW
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HOKA ONE ONE The Conquest

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Pretty Tough

Seven modern watches that are as classically


handsome as they are adventure-worthy
Originally engineered to equip professional and military divers, Breitlings
dive watches have been going deep since the 1950s. The limited-edition
Superocean ($3,290; breitling.com), which is water-resistant to 5,000 feet
and has an automatic pressure valve, takes sturdiness to a new extreme.
In 1968, astronauts on the Apollo 8 spacecraft wore Omegas Speedmaster
on the rst journey around the moon. With a zirconium-oxide ceramic dial and
blackened subdials, the new limited-edition Speedmaster Dark Side of the
Moon ($12,000; omega.com) pays homage to that historic mission.

tyle

Last summer, after a 17-year hiatus, Rolex once again began releasing timepieces from Tudor, its iconic sister company, in the U.S. The Pelagos ($4,125;
tudorwatch.com) is the agship dive watch: its waterproof to 500 meters,
and the case is constructed of durable, lightweight titanium.

86 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

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Sir Edmund Hilary took a Rolex Oyster Perpetual to the top of the world in
1953. Todays version, the Explorer II ($8,100; rolex.com), is even more rugged than the original, thanks to higher-grade steel and a scratch-resistant
sapphire crystal.
Tag Heuer patented the oscillating pinion, which helps chronographs start
and stop accurately, 137 years ago. As its Carrera 1887 ($5,200; tagheuer
.com) elegantly demonstrates, that mechanismne-tuned over decades
remains the industry standard.
The sand-colored hands and numerals on Bell and Rosss BR 126 Sport Heritage ($4,500;
bellross.com) hark back to the 1960s, the golden age of air travel that introduced planes like
the Dassault Falcon, one of the worlds rst luxury business jets.
The candy-cane minute hand on Oriss Air Racing Edition III ($1,650; oris.ch)
isnt just for show. The design was inspired by an aircraft speed-limit indicator
and pays tribute to the Swiss Air Racing Team, whose daredevil pilots count
on a watch they can read at a glance.

Photographs by INGA HENDRICKSON

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GRAHAM continued from page 69

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bad breath. He quickly dropped out of


Brigham Young Universitys film school.
A series of cliff-jumping videos he shot in
Hawaii went viral in December 2010 and were
his rst product-placement gigs. Business
has grown quickly from there, with enough
money rolling in to allow Graham to keep a
small crew working consistently and to hire
his father, who handles communications in
addition to running his own drywalling business. Grahams got an agent in Los Angeles
whos there largely to make his old-media
clients feel comfortable about doing business with a guy who seems to shoot from the
hip. The ght for creative control is one of
my least favorite things, says Graham. But

theyre starting to trust me.

Occasionally, safety has been an issue. A


guy broke his collarbone and a girl coughed
up blood in Lake Powell in October 2012, both
either leaping onto or being launched from a
giant inatable air bladder called the Blob.
And several participants have been knocked
unconscious by hitting the water at high
speed after being launched by a slingshot.
Graham has taken extra precautions in
Jacksonville. He hired the riggers from Aerial
Concepts, a stunt-safety-management rm,
to set up the zip line. Then each jump requires
about an hour to prepare. By 9 P.M., the crew
has executed seven jumps. Baird pulled a double backip and Jones a gainer. A cheerleader
named Caitlin swan-dived with a pom-pom
in one hand and a GoPro camera on a stick in
the other. The riggers are exhausted and need
to quit, but Graham has other ideas.
Maybe we can just shoot the intro with
Jaxson, he offers. Parker Walbeck, another

cameraman, is playing catch on the sidelines


with Baird, and Jones is dozing in a folding chair in the tunnel to the locker rooms.
Graham keeps rolling, shot after shot. Hes
got no time to waste. In a few weeks is Zorb
bowling (with those inatable hamster balls
people ride inside) in Mammoth, California,
and after that, the Island of Aruba needs him
and his friends to stage an epic pirate battle
using two tall sailing ships.
O
SENIOR EDITOR GRAYSON SCHAFFER
WROTE ABOUT STORMCHASERS IN
DECEMBER 2013.

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| 303-440-2722

Volume XXXIX, Number 3. OUTSIDE (ISSN 0278-1433) is


published monthly by Mariah Media Network LLC, 400
Market St., Santa Fe, NM 87501. Periodical postage paid
at Santa Fe, NM, and additional mailing ofces. Canadian
Goods and Services Tax Registration No. R126291723. Canada Post International Publications Mail Sales Agreement
No. 40015979. Subscription rates: U.S. and possessions,
$24; Canada, $35 (includes GST); foreign, $45. Washington residents add sales tax. POSTMASTER: Send U.S. and
international address changes to OUTSIDE, P.O. Box 6228,
Harlan, IA 51593-1728. Send Canadian address changes
to OUTSIDE, P.O. Box 877 Stn Main, Markham, ON L3P-9Z9.

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95

03.14

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PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC


Photograph by JAN KASL

96 O U T S I D E M A G A Z I N E

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Wear it. Mount it. Love it.

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GoPro App

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