Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
chas
eacopyof
T
HEKI
T
CHE
N
E
COS
YS
T
E
M
atoneoft
hes
er
et
ai
l
er
s
:
CLARKSON POTTER
THE
KITCHEN
ECOSYSTEM
eugenia bone
Photographs by Ben Fink
Integrating
Recipes
to Create
Delicious
Meals
THE
KITCHEN
ECOSYSTEM
eugenia bone
Photographs by Ben Fink
Integrating
Recipes
to Create
Delicious
Meals
Copyright 2014 by
Eugenia Bone
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States
by Clarkson Potter/Publishers,
an imprint of the Crown
Publishing Group, a division
of Random House LLC, a
Penguin Random House
Company, New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.clarksonpotter.com
To Carson and Mo
CLARKSON POTTER is
a trademark and POTTER
with colophon is a registered
trademark of Random House
LLC.
Library of Congress
Cataloging-in-Publication Data
has been applied for.
ISBN 978-0-385-34512-5
Ebook ISBN 978-0-385-34513-2
Printed in China
Book and cover design by
Rae Ann Spitzenberger
Cover photographs by Ben Fink
10987654321
First Edition
CONTENTS
pag e 2 7 1
319
t o m a t o e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
326
I N T R O D U C T I O N. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
c o r n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
92
t r o u t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
H O W T O U S E T H I S B O O K. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
337
c r a n b e r r i e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
101
w a t e r m e l o n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
346
c u c u m b e r s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
109
z u c c h i n i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
351
c u r r a n t s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
117
condiments, necessities,
About Substitutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
The Recipes
a p p l e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
d u c k. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
124
a n d l u x u r i e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
a p r i c o t s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
16
f e n n e l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
133
a r t i c h o k e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
24
f i g s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
141
Preser v i ng a nd
Recipe Tech n iques
a s p a r a g u s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
31
g i n g e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
147
b e e f . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
41
g r a p e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
156
b e e t s w i t h g r e e n s . . . . . . . . . .
49
l e m o n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
165
c a b b a g e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
56
l o b s t e r. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
176
mushrooms
carrots
with greens......................
65
c h e r r i e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
72
c h i c k e n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
82
201
pag e 4 4
208
o r a n g e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
214
p e a c h e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
222
p e a s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
228
c h e r r y , a n d h o t. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
237
p l u m s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
253
p o r k. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
260
g r e e n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
270
r a s p b e r r i e s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
276
r h u b a r b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
285
Smoking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384
Drying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384
Preserving in Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387
Preserving with Alcohol. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388
How to Sterilize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
Altitude Adjustments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
recipe techniques
s a lt w at e r f i s h
Salmon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
Tuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
White-Fleshed Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
s h r i m p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Curing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383
radishes with
359
a b o u t p r e s e r vat i o n
p e p p e r s : s w e e t,
vi
s t r a w b e r r i e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
313
397
398
vii
CONTENTS
pag e 2 7 1
319
t o m a t o e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
326
I N T R O D U C T I O N. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
c o r n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
92
t r o u t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
H O W T O U S E T H I S B O O K. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
337
c r a n b e r r i e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
101
w a t e r m e l o n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
346
c u c u m b e r s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
109
z u c c h i n i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
351
c u r r a n t s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
117
condiments, necessities,
About Substitutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
The Recipes
a p p l e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
d u c k. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
124
a n d l u x u r i e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
a p r i c o t s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
16
f e n n e l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
133
a r t i c h o k e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
24
f i g s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
141
Preser v i ng a nd
Recipe Tech n iques
a s p a r a g u s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
31
g i n g e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
147
b e e f . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
41
g r a p e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
156
b e e t s w i t h g r e e n s . . . . . . . . . .
49
l e m o n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
165
c a b b a g e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
56
l o b s t e r. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
176
mushrooms
carrots
with greens......................
65
c h e r r i e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
72
c h i c k e n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
82
201
pag e 4 4
208
o r a n g e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
214
p e a c h e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
222
p e a s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
228
c h e r r y , a n d h o t. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
237
p l u m s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
253
p o r k. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
260
g r e e n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
270
r a s p b e r r i e s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
276
r h u b a r b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
285
Smoking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384
Drying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384
Preserving in Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387
Preserving with Alcohol. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388
How to Sterilize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
Altitude Adjustments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
recipe techniques
s a lt w at e r f i s h
Salmon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
Tuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
White-Fleshed Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
s h r i m p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Curing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383
radishes with
359
a b o u t p r e s e r vat i o n
p e p p e r s : s w e e t,
vi
s t r a w b e r r i e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
313
397
398
vii
introduction
There are three steps to preparing really delicious food: (1) make dishes with as many
seasonal ingredients as possible, using some, while the ingredients are fresh, in dishes
to eat that night, and preserving the rest to use in the off-season; (2) replace the
commercial products in the pantry with homemade ones; and (3) prepare base recipes
from the parts you usually throw away, like bones and peels, and use them to bump up
the flavor of other dishes. Thats it.
But honestly? It took me twenty-five years
to get there.
I suppose it started with preserving. I
used to put up large batches of jams and jellies
and pickles from recipes I read in preserving
classics like Putting Food By. But I found it
totally discouraging to spend a long, sweaty
day prepping fruit and processing a dozen jars
of jam only to have the whole batch end up
loose or overly sweet or just nasty. And then,
when the preserves did work out well, I was
stuck with way more strawberry jam than
anyone over the age of five could possibly
consume.
So I started doing small-batch canning. Id
do just a few jars of any given product, about
what I thought Id use over the course of a
year. This was a good solution because I found
if I screwed it up, it wasnt such a tremendous
loss of time and treasure. Whats more, I
discovered that by putting up only a couple of
jars I could not only do a preservation recipe
from whatever I was cooking for dinner that
night, but I could also do it at the same time
I was hanging around cooking in the kitchen
anyway. If I was making a fresh tomato and
int r o d u ction
co b s s av e d fo r s to c k
int r o d u ction
Ch i c k e n P r e p a r a t i o n
The most economical way to buy chicken is to
C H I C K E N
Stuffed
Boned
Chicken
p r e s e rv e
some
Broiled
Radicchio di
Treviso
Canned
Chicken
Chicken
Gizzard
Confit
Ho w t o Tr u s s a Ch i c k e n
Take a piece of kitchen twine about 2 feet long.
Place the chicken on its back, cavity away
from you. Place the center of the twine under
Chicken
Croquettes
use the
scr aps
Chicken and
Potato Gnocchi
with Marinara
Sauce
make
more
use the
p r e s e rv e s
e at s o m e
fr e s h
Chicken with
Garlic and
Rosemary
Spaghettini
Cooked in
Chicken Stock
with Broccolini
Chicken
Stock
Zia Adas
Stracciatella
c h i c k e n w i t h ga r l i c a n d ro s e m a ry w i t h o l i v e s
c hi c k e n
83
Ch i c k e n P r e p a r a t i o n
The most economical way to buy chicken is to
C H I C K E N
Stuffed
Boned
Chicken
p r e s e rv e
some
Broiled
Radicchio di
Treviso
Canned
Chicken
Chicken
Gizzard
Confit
Ho w t o Tr u s s a Ch i c k e n
Take a piece of kitchen twine about 2 feet long.
Place the chicken on its back, cavity away
from you. Place the center of the twine under
Chicken
Croquettes
use the
scr aps
Chicken and
Potato Gnocchi
with Marinara
Sauce
make
more
use the
p r e s e rv e s
e at s o m e
fr e s h
Chicken with
Garlic and
Rosemary
Spaghettini
Cooked in
Chicken Stock
with Broccolini
Chicken
Stock
Zia Adas
Stracciatella
c h i c k e n w i t h ga r l i c a n d ro s e m a ry w i t h o l i v e s
c hi c k e n
83
Spaghet ti n i Cooked
i n Ch icken Stock
w ith Broccol i n i
Ive made this dish as a quick supper and as an
elegant dinner party first course. It goes both ways,
which is key to its charm and longevity in my cooking
repertoire. The sauce is created when the starch from
the pasta mixes with the chicken stock. One bunch
of broccoli rabe can be substituted for the broccolini,
but be sure you peel the tough stems. In the summer
I garnish this dish with minced cilantro, parsley, or
basil, garlic, and fresh tomatoes. This recipe is my
winter version. (The sauted broccolini is delicious as
a side vegetable, or tossed with roast chicken pieces. I
also combine cooked broccolini with grilled sausages
and cooked white beans.) SERV ES 4
2 bunches broccolini (about 1 pounds)
4 to 6 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons minced garlic
Salt and hot pepper flakes
pound spaghettini
1 quarts chicken stock (for homemade,
page 89)
cup ricotta cheese (for homemade, page 367)
or ricotta salata
s pag h e t t i n i
cooked in
c h i c k e n s to c k
w it h b r o c c o li n i
a n d r i c ot ta
c hi c k e n
91
Spaghet ti n i Cooked
i n Ch icken Stock
w ith Broccol i n i
Ive made this dish as a quick supper and as an
elegant dinner party first course. It goes both ways,
which is key to its charm and longevity in my cooking
repertoire. The sauce is created when the starch from
the pasta mixes with the chicken stock. One bunch
of broccoli rabe can be substituted for the broccolini,
but be sure you peel the tough stems. In the summer
I garnish this dish with minced cilantro, parsley, or
basil, garlic, and fresh tomatoes. This recipe is my
winter version. (The sauted broccolini is delicious as
a side vegetable, or tossed with roast chicken pieces. I
also combine cooked broccolini with grilled sausages
and cooked white beans.) SERV ES 4
2 bunches broccolini (about 1 pounds)
4 to 6 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons minced garlic
Salt and hot pepper flakes
pound spaghettini
1 quarts chicken stock (for homemade,
page 89)
cup ricotta cheese (for homemade, page 367)
or ricotta salata
s pag h e t t i n i
cooked in
c h i c k e n s to c k
w it h b r o c c o li n i
a n d r i c ot ta
c hi c k e n
91
050
Fig, Watercress,
a nd Sausage Sa lad
This is a terrific fall entre salad. I prefer to use the
skinny fresh pork sausage called luganica, but any
pork sausage will do. Sometimes I substitute walnut
oil for the olive oil in this recipe, which makes it even
richer and enhances the walnut flavor. SERV ES 4
1 pound fresh sausage links
2 big bunches watercress, tough stems
removed (about 5 cups loosely packed)
Pinch of salt
Neutral oil, such as safflower, for frying
12 fresh Black Mission figs, stems on
Confectioners sugar, for dusting
142
sweet
fr i e d fi g s
050
Fig, Watercress,
a nd Sausage Sa lad
This is a terrific fall entre salad. I prefer to use the
skinny fresh pork sausage called luganica, but any
pork sausage will do. Sometimes I substitute walnut
oil for the olive oil in this recipe, which makes it even
richer and enhances the walnut flavor. SERV ES 4
1 pound fresh sausage links
2 big bunches watercress, tough stems
removed (about 5 cups loosely packed)
Pinch of salt
Neutral oil, such as safflower, for frying
12 fresh Black Mission figs, stems on
Confectioners sugar, for dusting
142
sweet
fr i e d fi g s
193
Lobster Reduction
This stuff is so glamorous, its like having caviar in
the house. And to think its made from just shells. I
use it to flavor fish dishes, like Shrimp and Chorizo
(page 182) and Warm Scallop and Potato Salad
(page 182). You can make this recipe with shrimp
or crayfish too, or a combination. The first step is to
make a lobster stock, which can also be used to make
bisque or cook pasta (see Preparing Pasta in Stocks,
180
T H E K I T C H E N E C OS Y STE M
shrimp and
c h o r i z o w it h
lo b s t e r
reduction
193
Lobster Reduction
This stuff is so glamorous, its like having caviar in
the house. And to think its made from just shells. I
use it to flavor fish dishes, like Shrimp and Chorizo
(page 182) and Warm Scallop and Potato Salad
(page 182). You can make this recipe with shrimp
or crayfish too, or a combination. The first step is to
make a lobster stock, which can also be used to make
bisque or cook pasta (see Preparing Pasta in Stocks,
180
T H E K I T C H E N E C OS Y STE M
shrimp and
c h o r i z o w it h
lo b s t e r
reduction
Pur
chas
eacopyof
T
HEKI
T
CHE
N
E
COS
YS
T
E
M
atoneoft
hes
er
et
ai
l
er
s
:
CLARKSON POTTER